Hardware, estimating, and mill design

Part 15

Chapter 153,937 wordsPublic domain

Plastering laths are about 1¾ inches wide, ¼ inch thick, and usually 4 feet long, the studding being generally placed 12 or 16 inches on centers, so that the ends of the laths may be nailed to them. The laths are usually set from ¼ to ⅜ inch apart, requiring about 1½, 1⁷/₁₆, or 1⅜ four-foot laths, respectively, to cover 1 square foot.

For a fair grade of work, a man will lay on an average about 15 bundles, or 1,500 laths, per day. The price usually paid for laying laths is 25 cents a bundle.

In the following analysis is given the cost of lathing 100 square yards of surface:

COST OF LATHING 100 SQUARE YARDS

14⁴/₁₀ bundles of laths, at 55 cents per bundle $ 7.92 9 pounds of threepenny nails, at $3.65 per hundred pounds .33 Putting on 14⁴/₁₀ bundles, at 25 cents per bundle 3.60 ------ Total $11.85

The total cost of lathing 100 square yards is therefore $11.85, or about 12 cents per square yard.

JOINERY

=73. Joinery= includes all the interior and exterior finish put in place after the framing and covering are completed; as, for example, door and window frames, doors, baseboards, paneling, wainscoting, stairs, etc. Most of these materials are worked at the mill and are brought to the building ready to set in place.

=74. Frames.=—In taking off =door= and =window frames=, describe and state sizes. Measure architraves by the running foot, giving width and thickness, whether molded or plain, and state the number of plinth and corner blocks.

=75. Sash.=—For =sash=, state dimensions (giving the width first); thickness of the material, molded or plain; style of check-rail and sill finish; thickness of sash bar; whether plain, single or double-hung; and sizes (giving dimensions in inches) and number of lights. Use standard sizes as much as possible.

=76. Doors.=—In taking off =doors=, describe and state the sizes and thicknesses, whether the framing is stuck-molded, raised-molded, or plain; and number of panels, whether plain or raised. Use stock sizes wherever possible and suitable. For special work, where doors are to be veneered, state thickness of veneer, how cores are to be built, and the kind of wood to be used.

=77. Blinds.=—Describe size and thickness of =blinds=; whether paneled or slatted (fixed or movable), and whether molded or plain.

=78. Baseboard and Beam Casings.=—Measure the =baseboard= and =beam casings= by the running foot, stating width and thickness of stuff, and whether molded or plain. When a shoe is used for the base, so state; also, if a surbase is required, give particulars.

=79. Wainscoting.=—Measure =wainscoting= by the superficial foot. State kind of finish, whether paneled or plain, and style of molding and panels. Wainscoting cap and base, measure by the running foot.

=80. Stairways.=—Often =stairways= are taken by the contractor at so much per step, complete according to specifications. In measuring stairways, take off the amount of rough material in carriage timbers, and the planed lumber in treads, etc. Measure balustrades by the linear foot. Give description of newels. Measure spandrel and stairway paneling the same as wainscoting.

=81. Inside Fixtures.=—_Kitchen dressers_ may be taken at a fixed price complete; or at a fixed rate per square foot; or as dressed lumber, drawers and doors being taken separately. _Wardrobes_, _bookcases_, _mantels_, and _china closets_ should be treated separately, and a fixed price stated.

=82. Porches, Etc.=—_Porches_, _exterior balustrades_, _balconies_, _porte cochèrs_, etc. may be taken at a price per linear foot, or the actual quantity of material may be measured.

JOINERY DATA AND EXAMPLES OF ESTIMATING COSTS

=83. Molding.=—Molded work that goes through the mill is usually charged for by the square inch of section per foot in length. Thus, if the price is 1 cent per square inch of section per foot in length, a molding ⅞ in. × 4¾ in. and 12 feet long will cost 60 cents, because the section in the rough is 1 in. × 5 in., or 5 square inches. Therefore, 1 foot of this molding will cost 5 cents, and 12 feet will cost 60 cents. This method of charging for molding, however, is not altogether satisfactory, because it requires as much time to put a narrow piece of molding through the molding machine as it does a wide piece, and a wide piece, since it will have a larger sectional area, will bring a higher price.

A molding machine operates at different speeds, being run at a slow speed when cutting hard woods and at a high speed when cutting soft woods. A machine will turn out from 900 to 4,800 linear feet of molding of any width per hour, the 900 feet representing the amount of very hard wood run through the machine, and the 4,800 feet the amount of soft wood run through when the machine is speeded up to its full capacity. The average output of a machine, however, is about 3,000 feet per hour.

The cost of the machine with a man to operate it may be considered as 70 cents an hour on an average, the man getting 30 cents per hour and the machine being charged for at the rate of 40 cents per hour. Therefore, according to these figures, the cost of machining per linear foot is only ⁷⁰₃3₀₀₀, or .023 of 1 cent. It will thus be seen that the actual cost of putting molding through the machine, especially in large quantities, does not amount to much.

For this reason, especially in the eastern cities, it is cheaper to buy molding direct from the lumber mill than to buy the rough material and then run it through the mill at its destination. In nearly every instance the saving effected in putting the rough material through the machine at its destination is more than counterbalanced by the extra cost of freight rates due to the extra weight. For the same reason, in the eastern market today planed boards are really as cheap as rough ones, because the planed boards are lighter and thus cost less freight.

The cost of molding is governed almost entirely by the cost of the raw material, and is always reckoned from a base price of 1 cent per square inch of section 1 foot long. On this price a discount is given, depending on the kind of wood and the finish desired. At present an average discount for soft woods, such as white pine, spruce, cypress, etc., is about 35 per cent. Thus, the actual cost of pine molding 1 foot long and 1 square inch in cross-section is

35 65 1 - ---- = ---- of 1 cent. 100 100

No discount is given on hard woods in many of the large eastern cities at present—oak, birch, and the like being figured net. For walnut, mahogany, and other high-priced woods, a special price is set, depending on the market and the local prices.

=84. Cost of Window Frames and Windows.=—The following is approximately the cost of a window frame with two 28" × 28" lights, where all mill work is priced at ₆₅/₁₀₀ cent per square inch per foot:

COST OF WINDOW FRAME

Jambs at head, ⁵/₄" × 5" × 16' $ .65 Sill, 2" × 5" × 4' 0" .26 Sub-sill, ⁵/₄" × 6" × 2' 9" .14 Blind stop, 1" × 2" × 16' 0" .21 Parting stop, ½" × 1" × 16' 0" .11 Outside casing, ⁵/₄" × 5" × 12' 0" .49 Head casing, ⁵/₄" × 7" × 4' 0" .23 Rabbeted cap, ⁵/₄" × 4" × 4' 0" .13 Molding under cap, 1" × 3½" × 4' 6" .11 Sill nosing, ⁵/₄" × 4" × 4' 0" .13 Inside casing, including apron, 1" × 5" × 20' 0" .65 Back band, ⁵/₄" × ⁵/₄" × 16' 0" .17 Inside stops, ½" × 2" × 14' 0" .10 Four sash pulleys, at 3 cents per pulley .12 Making frame, 1 hour, at 40 cents per hour .40 ----- Total $3.90

The cost of setting and casing such a window frame is about 70 cents. The total cost of the frame set in place is therefore $3.90 + .70 = $4.60.

The cost of the frame per square foot of light is therefore

$4.60 × 144 ----------- = 43 cents 2 × 28 × 28

=85.= The cost of an ordinary window with two 28" × 28" lights may be estimated as follows:

COST OF SASH IN PLACE Cost of two sash, ⁶/₄, double-hung, glazed with single-thick American glass $2.10 Sash weights, 30 pounds, at 2 cents per pound .60 Cord, 22½ feet, at 1 cent per foot .23 Two sash lifts, at 5 cents each .10 Sash lock .15 Setting and hanging sash .35 ----- Total $3.53

If double American instead of single American glass is used, the cost just given should be increased by $1.

If the sash is glazed with single American glass, the cost per square foot of light will be

$3.53 × 144 ----------- = 33 cents. 2 × 28 × 28

Therefore, the total cost of window and frame in place is 43 + 33 = 76 cents per square foot. If the sash is glazed with double American glass, the cost per square foot of light will be

$4.53 × 144 ----------- = 42 cents. 2 × 28 × 28

Therefore, in this case the total cost of window and frame will be 43 + 42 = 85 cents per square foot.

For curved sash in curved walls, the cost is about twice as much as that of straight work.

=86. Cost of Door Frames and Doors.=—The following estimate represents the cost of an ordinary door frame. All molded work is put in the estimate at 1 cent per square inch of section per foot of length less 35-per-cent. discount, which is the same thing as ⁶⁵/₁₀₀ cent per square inch of section per foot.

COST OF A 2' 8" × 6' 8" DOOR FRAME IN PLACE

17 linear feet of ⁵/₄" × 6" rabbeted jambs $ .83 36 linear feet of 1" × 5" casing 1.17 36 linear feet of 1" × 2" back band .47 Dadoing and smoothing jambs and casing, 1 hour, at 40 cents per hour .40 Nails .05 Setting up jambs and casing,, 3 hours at 40 cents per hour 1.20 ----- Total $4.12

The area of the door is 2 ft. 8 in. × 6 ft. 8 in. = 17.78 square feet. Therefore, the cost of the preceding door frame per square foot of door is $4.12 ÷ 17.78 = 23 cents.

=87.= The following estimate gives the cost of a door of moderate price. The size of this door is 2 ft. 8 in. × 6 ft. 8 in. × ⁶/₄ in. It has four panels, is made of No. 1 pine, and is finished with solid ogee molding.

COST OF DOOR IN PLACE Price of door $2.75 Setting door, putting on hinges and lock, 2 hours, at 40 cents per hour .80 1 pair of 4" × 4" japanned-steel butts .16 1 mortise lock, brass-face knobs and escutcheons .70 ----- Total $4.41

If the door is provided with stuck molding instead of solid molding, it will cost about 50 cents more.

The area of the door is 2 ft. 8 in. × 6 ft. 8 in. = 17.78 square feet. The cost per square foot is therefore $4.41 ÷ 17.78 = 25 cents. The total cost of door and frame per square foot of door is therefore 25 + 23 = 48 cents.

=88.= The door just described has no transom. A transom 2 ft. 8 in. × 16 in., complete, will cost about $1. The area of such a transom is 2 ft. 8 in. × 16 in. = 3⁵/₉ square feet. The cost per square foot is therefore $1 ÷ 3⁵/₉ = 28 cents.

The prices just given are for solid pine doors. Veneered hardwood doors are usually made to order. When the contractor bids on a house, the architect as a rule has not yet detailed the veneered doors; therefore, the contractor is more or less uncertain as to what will be required and usually puts in a price that he thinks will cover the cost. In the eastern part of the United States, for a veneered door, with ¼-inch veneers built of staved-up cores, a price of from 35 to 50 cents per square foot will be found adequate. This price does not of course include the frame.

=89.= There is now on the market a ready-made, veneered birch door known as the _Korelock door_. In using these doors, it is always cheaper to make the door frame of the correct size to take stock-size doors. The price of these doors is quite reasonable. For a 2' 8" × 6' 8" × ⁶/₄" door, with six cross-panels, the price is $2.80 for ⅛-inch veneer; if the door is ⁷/₄ instead of ⁶/₄ inch, the price is $3.25. This price of course includes no hardware or frame. A 2' 8" × 6' 8" × ⁶/₄" two-panel door costs $3.30, and if ⁷/₄ inch, it costs $3.75. A 2' 8" × 6' 8" × 1⅜", half-glass door, with plain glass, costs $5.55; with art or lace glass, the price is $6.20. This price includes the glass. If the door is 1¾ inches thick instead of 1⅜ inches, 65 cents should be added to the two prices just stated.

A fair workman can hang, trim, and put hardware, including mortise lock, on about four ordinary doors per day. For veneered doors, or those requiring extra care, not more than two can be put in place in a day by one man.

=90. Cost of Baseboards, Rails, and Moldings.=—The cost of material and fitting in place of baseboards may be estimated at 1³/₁₀ cents per square inch of section per linear foot. This price is for pine; if hardwood is used, the price will be 2 cents. The same rule also applies to chair rails, cap rails, and natural-finish picture moldings.

=91. Cost of Paneling and Wainscoting.=—Paneling may be estimated at 20 cents per square foot for ⅞-inch pine; if over ⅞ inch, add simply for extra material. If the paneling is of hardwood and veneered, add 50 per cent. to the price of pine.

Plain wainscoting may be estimated at 9 cents per square foot, the cap being figured separately by the linear foot.

=92. Cost of Stairs.=—The cost per step for an ordinary stairway, constructed according to the following specifications, is about $3.55. For a better class of work, about one-quarter should be added to this price. Length of steps, 3 feet; tread, Georgia pine; riser, white pine; open string, white pine; nosing and cove; dovetail balusters, square or turned; rail 2½ in. × 3 in.; 6-inch start newel, cherry; two 4-inch square angle newels, with trimmed caps and pendants; simple easements, furred underneath for plastering; treads and risers tongued together, housed into wall strings, wedged, glued, and blocked.

The material of such a stairway will cost about $1.84 per step. This rate includes landing fascia and balustrade to finish on upper floor. The labor on the same, mill work and setting in place, is about $1.71 per step. For example, for a stairs having 17 steps and landing balustrade (including return, about 14 feet), the entire cost will be 17 × $3.55 = $60.35, of which $31.28 will represent the cost of dressed lumber, including turned balusters and newels and worked rail, and $29.07 will represent the cost of labor in housing strings, cutting, mitering, and dovetailing steps, working easements, fitting and bolting rail, and erecting stairway in building.

=93. Cost of Verandas.=—For small dwellings, it has been found by experience that a veranda built according to the following specifications will cost about $3.75 per linear foot: Width, 5 feet; posts, turned, set 6 or 8 feet on centers; floor timbers, 2 in. × 6 in.; flooring, ⅞-inch white pine, sound grade; rafters, 2 in. × 4 in., dressed; purlins, 2 in. × 4 in., set 2 feet on centers; roof sheathing, ⅞-inch white pine; box frieze and angle mold; angle and face brackets; steps; no balustrade.

To include balustrade with 2-inch turned balusters, add about 60 cents per linear foot.

For a veranda built according to the following specifications, the cost will be about $6.75 per linear foot: Width, 8 feet; columns, 9-inch, turned; box pedestals; box cornice and gutter; level ceiling; roof timbers, 2 in. × 6 in.; roof covered with matched boards; tin, a good grade; floor timbers, 2 in. × 8 in.; floor, 1¼-inch white pine, second grade, with white-lead joints; no balustrade.

Including balustrade, with 2½-inch turned balusters, rail, and base to suit, add 80 cents per linear foot.

Where a portion of the veranda is segmental or semicircular, a close approximation to the cost will be had if the circumference of the circular part is measured, and a rate fixed at twice that for straight work of the same length. This applies to veranda framing, roofing, casing, and balustrades.

STRUCTURAL STEEL

=94.= The price of =structural steel= varies continually as the steel market fluctuates. The cost of erecting steel also varies continually and depends on the difficulties to be overcome. Heavy steel work costs less per pound than light roof trusses and domes, because less shop work is required in proportion to the weight. For average prices in the eastern part of the United States, heavy steel may be taken at 3³/₁₀ cents per pound. Roof trusses, due to extra framing, will cost about 3⁸/₁₀ cents per pound, and light, complicated dome work will cost 6½ cents per pound. These prices are for steel delivered and painted. To erect steel costs anywhere from ½ to 2 cents per pound, depending on local conditions.

HEATING AND VENTILATING SYSTEM

=95. Heating and ventilating work= should be estimated as indicated in the following paragraphs:

Estimate all pipes and fittings the same as for plumbing. Sum up all standard radiators, and the price per square foot of radiation. Figure special radiators separately.

Itemize all valves, air vents, hangers, etc.

Estimate on pipe coverings by linear foot.

Estimate sheet-metal, indirect-radiator casings in pounds.

Estimate sheet-metal flues and smoke pipes by the linear foot; but estimate elbows and dampers separately.

Estimate register boxes, registers, and borders separately.

Make separate items of expansion tanks, hot-water damper regulators, and furnace regulators.

Figure heaters, steam boilers, and furnaces from manufacturers’ catalogs.

In estimating on heating by furnace, the average cost of labor is about one-third that of materials. For steam and hot-water heating, the ratio is about one-fifth.

The cost of a hot-air installation is approximately 6 per cent. of the cost of the building; for steam heating, 8 per cent.; and for hot-water heating, 10 per cent.

PLUMBING AND GAS-FITTING

PLUMBING

=96.= An approximate figure for the cost of =plumbing= is 10 per cent. of the cost of the building. This figure is for good materials and labor, and of course is subject to considerable variation. The cost of labor alone will average about one-fourth the cost of the materials.

=97. Drainage System.=—In making estimates for the =drainage system=, measure all horizontal pipes from the plans and all vertical pipes from the sectional drawings.

Commence at the sewer outlet and measure the main-sewer line forwards into the building; then measure the horizontal branches.

Measure the vertical, soil, waste, and vent stacks to their terminations above the roof, and waste-pipe branches to the fixtures on the several floors.

Itemize the several pipes in the different kinds and classes.

Estimate all earthen pipe by the linear foot, allowing for Portland cement in the joints.

Estimate all cast-iron pipe by the linear foot, allowing for each joint ¾ pound of lead for every inch in diameter of the pipe.

Estimate wrought pipe by the linear foot, inclusive of couplings.

Estimate brass, copper, and lead pipe by the pound.

Estimate all traps, bends, branches, increasers, reducers, and other fittings separately, except such special brass fixtures, traps, and connections as are included in the cost of the fixtures. Do not figure lead bends that are smaller than 2 inches.

Estimate on brass ferrule connections at all points where lead pipe joins iron pipe.

Estimate on all solder joints (wiped), allowing 1 pound of solder for every inch inside diameter of the pipe.

=98. Water-Supply System.=—For water supplied from street mains, allow for permits, corporation tapping, and curb box.

Measure the service pipe from street main to cellar, and allow for a stop and waste cock inside the cellar wall.

Measure all horizontal distributing pipes from the plan views of the building and all vertical distributing pipes from the sectional drawings.

Measure all branches for the several fixtures on the different floors, to the lawn hydrants, etc.

Itemize the different kinds and classes of pipes.

Estimate lead, brass, and copper water pipes by the pound, and wrought water pipe by the linear foot.

Itemize all stop-cocks, pipe supports, straps, hangers, etc. separately.

Estimate all water-pipe fittings less than 1½ inches by the pound.

Figure on brass solder-nipple connections in all places where lead pipes join iron pipes.

Estimate on kitchen boiler, sediment cock, and range connections; also on faucets for all fixtures other than those which are included in the costs of the fixtures.

Estimate on garden hydrants and lawn sprinklers, and allow a stop and waste cock in cellar for each.

=99. Well Supply.=—For water supplied from a well, figure on double-action force pump in kitchen or laundry if the well is not deeper than 26 feet below the pump; for a deep well, estimate on a pumping engine or a windmill.

Measure lead tank linings in square feet, and estimate by the pound, allowing 1 pound of solder for every 2 feet of seams.

Allow 2 feet of lead pipe to connect iron pipes to house tank, and for stop-cocks close to tank.

Provide for telltale and overflow pipes for tank.

Estimate copper tanks in square feet and by the pound.

If there are iron, slate, glass, or cedar tanks, figure them separately.

=100. Fixtures.=—Estimate each =fixture= separately, and include traps, faucets, waste, vent, and water connections to walls or floors. When the sewer is long and has but little fall, figure on using a grease trap for the kitchen sink.

GAS-FITTING

=101. Cost.=—The cost of the =gas-fitting= may be approximately figured as about 3 per cent. of the cost of the building. The cost of labor alone varies from about one-fourth to one-seventh of the cost of materials. The better the grade of fixtures, the lower will be the ratio, provided there is no excessive ornamentation requiring much time to put in place, as the cost of the labor is about the same for cheap fixtures as for more costly ones.

=102.= Estimate piping the same as for plumbing.

Allow for meter, permits, tapping gas main, etc.

Figure each gas fixture separately set up in place. The owner usually makes a selection of fixtures from the manufacturer’s catalog. Allow for shields, fireguards, etc. in places where there is danger of fire.

Figure gas grates, gas stoves, gas heaters, etc. separately. Where the gas pressure is very high or unsteady, allow for a pressure regulator.

PAINTING AND PAPERING

PAINTING

=103. Painting= is measured by the superficial yard, girting every part of the work that is covered by paint, and allowing additions to the actual surface to compensate for the difficulty of covering deep quirks of moldings, for carved and enriched surfaces, etc. Ordinary door and window openings are usually measured solid, to compensate for the extra time taken in working around them, “cutting in” the window sash, etc. Porch and stair balustrades, iron railings, and work having numerous thin strips, are also counted solid, for a similar reason. Allowance is frequently made for the distance from the ground that the work is to be done, as in cornices, balconies, dormers, etc., and also for the difficulty of access.