Chapter 3

Take 26 stitches on one needle, leaving all other stitches idle; take a stitch from each side every time across until but 42 stitches are left on both idle needles. Narrow at the end of the busy needle each time until but 26 stitches are left on the busy needle. Take up 23 stitches on the selvage at each side, divide the stitches evenly on the three needles, and you should have the original number of 35 stitches on each of the needles. Again knit 30 rows in single rib, bind off loosely, and finish with a simple crocheted border of chain-loops or shells caught down in every other stitch.

To knit the gore in basket-stitch, * purl 6, knit 2; repeat for 3 rows, then knit 1 row plain; repeat 1st 3 rows, placing the 2 plain stitches exactly in the center of the 6 purled stitches of previous rows. This change, made after each plain row, gives the woven- or basket-effect, and the pattern is a very pretty one for sweaters.

Wristers or Pulse-Warmers

Wristers or pulse-warmers, are very comfortable on a cold day, and those described particularly so, as they fill the sleeve and completely exclude the wind. Using knitting-worsted, or yarn of any desired size or quality with needles to correspond, such as would be employed for a man's knitted sock, cast 18 to 22 stitches on each of 3 needles, and knit 2, purl 2, alternately, for 35 rows or more, according to length required. Bind off loosely.

With bone crochet-hook work in straight rows from top to bottom, putting a treble in every other stitch and 2 chain-stitches between trebles; after the last treble at the edge chain 2, miss a row and return on the next.

Having completed the rows of spaces, make 2 trebles in 1st space, 3 in next, and repeat, working back and forth until all the spaces are filled. A very attractive finish is to work a row of doubles in color, making a double in each treble. With fine wool, crochet-silk may be prettily used for this finish.

A fringed wrister may be made on the foundation described by holding a pencil on lengthwise with the left hand, and with the right sewing over and over it; make the rows quite close together, cut the wound yarn open with a pair of sharp scissors, and brush lightly across it, back and forth, until the cut ends become "mossy" or fluffed up.

Motor-Scarf

This motor-scarf may be of pink and white, or any preferred colors of Shetland floss. Use wooden needles and cast on 100 stitches with pink.

1, 3. Purl.

2. Knit plain.

4. Knit 3, over twice, narrow; repeat across, ending with knit 3.

5. Purl, dropping 2d of the over-twice loops.

6. Knit plain.

7, 9. With white, purl.

8, 10. Knit plain.

Repeat until the scarf is of the length required. The sides are finished with shells, in white, making 8 trebles, well drawn out, in the center of the pink stripe, and fastening in center of white stripe with 1 double.

Finish the ends with fringe knotted in, six inches long and composed of 10 threads each of pink and white.

Sport Scarf

A very attractive scarf uses brown Shetland as a body color, with deep cream-color, green and rose in combination with the brown for stripes. Using No. 3½ or No. 4 bone needles, cast on 84 stitches and knit back and forth for 64 rows or 32 ribs; then join in the cream-color and knit (4 rows of cream, 2 rows of brown) 5 times, 10 rows of cream, (2 of brown, 4 of cream) 5 times; 64 rows of brown; join in green, (4 rows of green, 2 of brown) 3 times; 10 rows of green; (2 of brown, 4 of green) 3 times; 64 rows of brown; (4 of rose, 2 of brown) 3 times; 10 of rose; (2 of brown, 4 of rose) 3 times; * 64 rows of brown. Reverse from *, making the other end of scarf as directed for first half.

For the fringe, cut strands of brown six inches long, and knot a strand in each stitch.

For a lighter scarf use No. 4 bone needles and cast on 48 or 50 stitches. The larger needles with loose knitting will give work much more open. If desired one may introduce rows of fancy knitting instead of the colored stripes. In fact, having made one scarf, the worker will find it possible to vary it in many ways, and will find such variation a pleasing study.

Many like to use a thread of silk or mercerized crochet-cotton with the Shetland floss or other wool which may be chosen.

Scarf in Lattice-Stitch

Using Shetland floss and No. 4 bone needles, cast on as many stitches as required for width of scarf, using a multiple of 6 with 2 over.

Knit back and forth 6 times.

7. Knit 1, over 3 times; repeat, knitting last stitch.

8. Knit 1, draw up the loop about one inch in length, (drop the "overs," and slip the knitted stitch) 6 times, slip the 6 long stitches to left-hand needle, draw the last 3 over 1st 3, knitting each, then knit the 1st 3, and repeat, knitting 1 at end of row. Take care the long stitches are not twisted.

9. 10, 11. Knit plain.

Repeat from 7th row.

Gather up the ends of the scarf and finish with cord and tassel, or a bow of ribbon, as preferred.

Knitting for the Red Cross

(Official Red Cross Photographs)

Sleeveless Sweater

Three hanks of gray or khaki knitting-yarn (¾ pound), fivefold, and a pair of amber needles No. 5, or No. 3 Red Cross needles will be needed; 11 stitches should measure two inches. Cast on 80 stitches. Knit 2, purl 2 stitches for 4 inches. Knit plain until sweater measures 25 inches. Knit 28 stitches, bind off 24 stitches for neck, loose. Knit 28 stitches. Knit 7 ridges on each shoulder, cast on 24 stitches. Knit plain for 21 inches. Purl 2, knit 2 stitches for 4 inches. Sew up sides, leaving 9 inches for armholes. Two rows single crochet around neck and 1 row single crochet around armholes.

Washcloth

White knitting-cotton (medium weight); 1 pair Red Cross needles No. 1.

Cast on 70 stitches, knit back and forth plain until cloth is about 10 inches square, and bind off. Sew a loop of tape to one corner.

Service Sock

A service-sock requires three skeins of knitting-yarn for two pairs, with No. 11 steel needles. Cast on 24 stitches on each of 2 needles, and 20 on the 3d. Knit 2 and purl 2 for 3½ inches.

Knit 10, or halfway across the 3d needle, pick up an extra stitch and purl it, keeping this always for the seam-stitch at back of leg, knit plain to end of round. Continue knitting plain and purling the seam stitch for four inches.

Knit to within 3 stitches of the seam-stitch, narrow, knit 1, purl the seam-stitch, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped stitch over, and knit plain to end of round. Repeat, narrowing as directed every 6th round, 4 times. Now knit without decreasing for one inch.

For the heel: Place 15 stitches each side of the middle or seam-stitch, and knit back and forth, 1 row plain and 1 purl, alternately, for 25 rows, always slipping the 1st stitch. To turn the heel, slip the 1st stitch, knit 15, narrow, knit 1, turn work; slip 1, purl 2, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn, slip 1, knit 3, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 4, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 5, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 6, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 7, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 8, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 9, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 10, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 11, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 12, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 13, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 14, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 14, narrow. Proceed to pick up 17 stitches down side of heel next to needle just finished, knitting each as you pick it up; knit the 30 left on the needle for front of foot, and pick up 17 down other side of heel; then knit on with these half the stitches left at top of heel.

Knit 1 round plain; narrow the 2d round as follows: On 1st side needle knit to within 3 of end, narrow, knit 1; knit across front needle; on side needle knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over, and knit to end. Decrease in this manner every 2d round until there are 15 stitches on each side needle, reducing them to correspond with the front needle, and making 10 narrowings for the instep.

Knit five inches without narrowing, then decrease for the toe in the following manner: Knit to within 3 of end of 1st side needle, narrow, knit 1; on front needle, knit 1, slip and bind as before, knit to within 3 of the end, narrow, knit 1; on other side needle, knit 1, slip and bind, knit plain to the end. Knit 2 rounds plain, and repeat last 3 rounds three times more; then decrease with 1 row plain between three times, and after that decrease every row until there are but 4 stitches on the front needle. Finish off neatly, drawing the toe together and darning in with a worsted-needle.

One-Piece Helmet

One hank of yarn (¼ pound); Red Cross needles No. 2.

Cast on 56 stitches loosely. Knit plain for 8 inches for front piece, and leave on extra needle. Knit another piece to correspond for back. These pieces must be at least 9 inches wide. Slip the stitches of both pieces on to 3 needles, arranging for last 2 stitches of back piece to be on beginning of 1st needle, with 38 stitches of front piece added (making 40 on 1st needle).

Divide rest of stitches on other 2 needles; 36--36.

Beginning with 1st needle, knit 2, purl 2 for 6 inches. Then on 1st needle knit 2, purl 2 for 18 stitches. Bind off 22 stitches for face opening. (Try to keep same arrangement of stitches on needles for further directions.) Knit 2, purl 2 forward and back on remaining 90 stitches for 1½ inches, always slipping first stitch. Cast on 22 stitches loosely to complete face opening, and knit 2, purl 2 for 2½ inches (adjust stitches by slipping 2 from end of 3d needle to 1st needle, making 42 on 1st needle).

Knit 1 round plain. Knit 2 stitches together, knit 11, knit 2 stitches together, knit 1. Repeat to end of round. Knit 4 rows plain. Then knit 2 stitches together, knit 9, knit 2 together, knit 1. Repeat to end of round. Knit 4 rows plain. Continue in this way, narrowing on every fifth round and reducing number of stitches between narrowed stitches by 2 (as 7, 5, 3, etc.) until you have 28 stitches left on needles. Divide on 2 needles, having 14 on 1st needle and 14 on the other.

Break off yarn, leaving 12-inch end. Thread into worsted-needle and proceed to weave the front and back together as follows:

* Pass worsted-needle through 1st stitch of front knitting-needle as if knitting, and slip stitch off--pass through 2d stitch as if purling--leave stitch on, pass thread through 1st stitch of back needle as if purling, slip stitch off, pass thread through 2d stitch of back needle as if knitting, leave stitch on. Repeat from * until all the stitches are off the needle.

Muffler

Two and one-half skeins of knitting-yarn and one pair amber needles No. 5, or Red Cross needles No. 3 will be required. Cast on 50 stitches, measuring 11 inches, and knit back and forth until the muffler is sixty-eight inches in length.

Hot-Water-Bottle Cover

White knitting-cotton (medium weight); 1 pair Red Cross needles No. 1.

Cast on 56 stitches, knit 2, purl 2 and repeat until the work is 4 inches deep. Then knit back and forth plain for 9½ inches more, or until entire work measures 13½ inches. Next decrease 2 stitches at beginning and 2 stitches at end of each needle until there are sixteen stitches left, and bind off. Make another piece in same manner and sew together. Attach a 20-inch piece of tape to seam at one side of ribbing to tie around neck of bottle.

Helmet Made in Two Parts

One hank of yarn (¼ pound); 1 pair Red Cross Needles No. 2.

The helmet is made in two parts, which afterward are sewed together.

FRONT OF HELMET.--Cast on 48 stitches (11 inches), knit plain for 25 ribs (6 inches) and knit 2, purl 2 for 35 rows. On the next row the opening for the face is made as follows: Knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, knit and bind off loosely the next 28 stitches and purl 1, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2. Run the stitches before the opening on a spare needle and on the stitches at the other side of opening knit 2, purl 2 for 12 rows. The last row will end at the opening, and at that point cast on 28 stitches to offset those bound off. Begin at the face opening of stitches on spare needle and knit 2, purl 2 for 12 rows. At the end of the 12th row continue all across to the end of other needle, when there should be 48 stitches on needle as at first. Knit 2, purl 2 for 24 rows.

TOP OF HELMET.--Knit 2, narrow (knitting 2 stitches together), knit 14, narrow, knit 14, narrow, knit 12. Purl the entire next row. On the 3d row knit 2, narrow, knit 13, narrow, knit 13, narrow, knit 11. Purl 4th row. On the 5th row knit 2, narrow, knit 12, narrow, knit 12, narrow, knit 10. Purl 6th row. Continue to narrow in the 3 places every plain knitted row with 1 stitch less between narrowings until 9 stitches are left.

BACK OF HELMET.--Work in same manner as for front but omit the face opening. Sew the stitches of upper edges together with joining-stitch. Sew up the side seams, leaving the plain knitting at shoulders open.

Thumbless Mitt or Wristlet

The thumbless mitt or wristlet requires one half hank of knitting-yarn, gray, with No. 2 Red Cross needles or No. 11 or No. 12 steel needles. Nine stitches measure one inch. Cast on 48 stitches and knit 2, purl 2, for 12 inches; bind off and sew up, leaving an opening for the thumb two inches in length, three inches from one end. The ordinary wristlets or pulse-warmers are knitted in the same way, 8½ inches long, and sewed up with no thumb-opening.

Wristlets made in one piece require one half hank of yarn, and 4 bone needles No. 3, or steel needles No. 12. Cast on 52 stitches on 3 needles; 16-16-20. Knit 2, purl 2, for 8 inches. To make opening for thumb, knit 2, purl 2 to end of "Third" needle, turn; knit and purl back to end of "First" needle, always slipping first stitch, turn. Continue knitting back and forth for 2 inches. From this point continue as at first for 4 inches for the hand. Bind off loosely; buttonhole thumb-opening.

Bed-Sock

One hank of yarn (¼ pound) is required, with Red Cross needles No. 2 or steel needles No. 11 or 12.

Cast 48 stitches on three needles, 16 on each. Knit plain and loosely for 20 inches. Decrease every other stitch by knitting two stitches together until you have 12 stitches on each of two needles opposite each other. Break off yarn and weave stitches together as per directions for finishing one-piece helmet.

Child's Drawers-Leggings Knitted

Materials required are six hanks of Germantown wool, a pair of bone needles No. 4, and a pair of steel needles, No. 15.

Cast on 68 stitches.

1 to 16. Knit 2, purl 2; repeat. This is the double rib.

17. Knit 6 plain, turn; knit back on these 6 stitches, turn.

18. Knit 12, turn; knit back on these 12 stitches.

Continue working in this way, knitting 6 more stitches forward each row and knitting back on the same, until you have 36 stitches on the needle. Knit back on these 36 stitches, turn. This brings 6 ridges at one side of the work. Now knit plain across the entire 68 stitches.

Continue knitting back and forth until you have 34 ridges (not counting the 6 ridges at one side of work); in next row narrow once at each end of row, and continue in this way, narrowing a stitch each end, until you have 50 stitches remaining on the needle.

Do 12 rows of double rib (knit 2, purl 2), then begin the cable-twist of ankle, thus:

1. Knit 7, purl 2, slip 3 stitches on a spare needle, knit 6, then knit the 3 stitches from the spare needle, forming the twist, purl 2, knit 10, purl 2, slip 3 stitches on spare needle, knit 6, knit the 3 stitches from spare needle, purl 2, knit 7, turn.

2. Knit 6, purl 1, knit 2, purl 9, knit 2, purl 1, knit 8, purl 1, knit 2, purl 9, knit 2, purl 1, knit 6, turn.

3. Knit 7, purl 2, knit 9, purl 2, knit 10, purl 2, knit 9, purl 2, knit 7.

Repeat last 2 rows, alternately, for 30 rows, making the twist, as directed in 1st row, every 6th row.

For the instep: Count off or leave 29 stitches; knit back 8 stitches on these 29, and on the 8 stitches work back and forth until you have 8 ridges. Pick up the stitches around edge of instep, and work back and forth along the entire row for 4 ridges; bind off.

Make the other leg in the same way, sew up the seams and join the two by the middle seam.

Around the top work a row of spaces, in which to run the drawstrings, thus:

1. Fasten in, chain 5, * miss 2, a treble in next, chain 2; repeat around, and join to 3d of 5 chain.

2. Miss 1 space, 4 trebles in next, miss 1 space, fasten in next; repeat.

Crochet a cord of the wool and finish the ends with tassels.

A Knitted Hood for Miss Dolly

Using blue Saxony and medium steel needles, cast on 74 stitches; knit plain back and forth until you have 10 single ribs, then bind off 6, knit across to within 6 stitches of the end and bind off these. This is for the front or turnover of the hood.

Next row, knit 1, * over, narrow, knit 1; repeat, forming holes in which to run ribbon.

Now change to white yarn and knit across, adding 6 extra stitches distributed along the front near the top in order to make the back a trifle full, * knit 1 row, purl 1 row and knit 1 row for a triple rib; repeat from * 16 times, always slipping the 1st stitch of each row to give a good selvage.

Bind off 26 stitches on each end of the work; be sure that this is done on the wrong side, and just before knitting the last row of last rib, as the binding off finishes the rib and is essential in keeping all the ribs the same.

Knit the crown on the 16 middle stitches, in the triple ribs described. Widen twice each end of crown needle during 1st 2 ribs. Knit same number of ribs as the front, narrowing once or twice each end of needle near extreme end of crown.

Pick up the stitches for the neck around lower part of crown and fronts, about 18 stitches on each of the latter and alternate loops on the crown; knit across with blue, making a row of holes as on the front; knit 6 or 7 single ribs, and sew neatly to the stitches bound off at lower edge of front.

Sew the crown neatly to front, run ribbon in the spaces made for it and tighten slightly, and finish with ties and bows of ribbon.

By adding extra stitches to the front, and making the crown proportionately larger, these directions will be found to serve admirably for baby's first hood, or as large a hood as wanted.

A Lesson in Crochet

The stitches and terms given herewith are such as are in general use, and were taught the writer by an English teacher of crocheting, herself a professional in the art. In some periodicals and books, the real slip-stitch is omitted, and the single is called slip-stitch; the double is called single, the treble is called double, the double treble is called treble, and so on.

There are different ways of holding the crochet-needle and carrying the thread, and many consider one way as good as another unless, as is usually the case, one's own method is thought a little the best. The following instructions were given by the English teacher in question, and are those commonly accepted: Hold the needle in the right hand very much as you hold a pen when writing, letting the handle extend between the forefinger and thumb, which rest on and hold the needle. Hold nothing but the latter in the right hand, not allowing the fingers of that hand to so much as rest on the work. Hold work with thumb and second finger of left hand, letting the thread pass over the forefinger, slightly raised, or held up from the work, under the second, over the third and under the little finger. These instructions are especially good for using yarns, when it is desirable to keep the work as soft and fluffy as possible.

THE CHAIN. (Figure 1.) Make a loop of thread around the needle, take up the thread and draw through this loop (that is, push the hook under the thread that passes over the forefinger, draw it back, catching the thread, and pull this through the loop on the needle), forming a new stitch or loop, take up the thread and draw through this, and so continue until the chain is of the length required, tightening each loop as drawn through, so that all will be of uniform size and smoothness. After a little practise one does this without thought. When abbreviations are used, that for chain is ch.

THE SLIP-STITCH is properly a close joining stitch: Drop the stitch on the needle, insert hook through the stitch of work to which you wish to join, take up the dropped stitch and pull through, thus making a close fastening. This stitch is sometimes used to "slip" along certain portions of the work, from one to another point, but single crochet is more often employed for this. The abbreviation is sl-st.

SINGLE CROCHET (Figure 2, frequently called slip-stitch, and sometimes mitten-stitch) is made thus: Having a stitch on needle, insert hook in work, take up the thread and draw it through the work and the stitch on the needle at the same time. The abbreviation is s c.

DOUBLE CROCHET. (Figure 3). Having a stitch on needle, insert hook in work, take up thread and draw through, giving you two stitches on the needle; take up thread and draw through the two stitches. The abbreviation is d c. There are many variations of the double-crochet stitch; the slipper-stitch, or ribbed stitch, is formed by taking up the back horizontal loop or vein of each stitch in preceding row. A quite different effect is given when the hook is inserted under both loops.

TREBLE CROCHET. (Figure 4.) Having a stitch on the needle, take up the thread as if to make a stitch, insert hook in work, take up thread and draw through, making three stitches or loops on the needle; * take up thread and draw through two, again and draw through two. The abbreviation of treble crochet, is t c. It will be noted that the single crochet has one "draw," the double two, and the treble three, from which these stitches take their names.

HALF-TREBLE OR SHORT-TREBLE CROCHET. Like treble to *; then take up thread and draw through all three stitches at once.

DOUBLE-TREBLE CROCHET. (Figure 6.) Having a stitch on the needle, take up the thread twice, or put it twice over the needle, insert hook in work, take up thread and draw through, making four stitches to be worked off; (take up thread and draw through two) three times. The abbreviation of double-treble crochet is d t c.

TRIPLE-TREBLE CROCHET. (Figure 7.) Take up thread three times, insert hook in work, take up thread and draw through, making five stitches on needle; work these off two at a time, as in double treble. The abbreviation is t t c.