Chapter 2

Jacket.--Cast on 52 stitches and knit 60 rows or 30 ribs; cast on 26 stitches for sleeve, knit back and cast on 26 stitches for the other sleeve. Knit 34 rows, then knit 43 stitches, bind off 18 stitches for the neck, knit remaining 43 stitches, and on these continue with the front. Knit 6 rows, then continue knitting back and forth, adding a stitch at the end of each row toward the front for 22 rows, which will give 11 extra stitches; knit 6 rows without widening, then bind off 26 stitches, and knit remainder of front to correspond with the back.

Knit the other front in same way, sew up sleeves and underarm seams, work around the neck with double crochet, in color, 1 chain between, and around the body of the jacket with shells of three trebles in a stitch, miss space of two ribs; repeat. With the gray make 2 trebles, picot of 3 chain caught in last treble and 1 treble around neck, and between 1st and 2d trebles of shells around body of jacket. Finish edge of sleeves in the same way, and run in cord and balls.

For the Hood.--Cast on 64 stitches, knit 28 ribs, then 2 ribs of color and 2 of gray; bind off, sew up the back of hood where cast on, finish around the neck with double crochet, space of 2 chain between, using color, work the shells around front of hood, and finish with the shells of gray, as for jacket. Run in the cord, with balls of the two colors of yarn.

The cords may be done in plain crochet, the ordinary chain or, as preferred because stronger, knotted by what is called the "fool's delight" method, although why named thus it is impossible to say. Surely it seems a very sensible way: Take a length of yarn six times as long as the cord is wanted; make a slip or half knot at one end and pass the other end down through it to form a loop, then tie the ends of yarn together. Hold this knot between thumb and forefinger of one hand, say the right, with the yarn which pulls through the knot under the same hand, and the loop which was formed held on the forefinger; hold the yarn which does not pull in the left hand, pass the forefinger of the left hand through the loop on right forefinger from front to back, catch up and pull through the non-pulling or left-hand thread--exactly as you would make a chain-stitch in crochet--transfer the knot (which ties the two ends together) to the thumb and forefinger of left hand, keeping the loop over forefinger, and draw up the pulling yarn. Now the position of the loop, pulling yarn and knot is exactly the same in the left hand as formerly in the right. Continue by passing the forefinger of right hand through the loop, catching up the non-pulling thread and drawing it through to form the new loop (on right hand again), transfer the knot and pull up. This is really a sort of double chain, and when one has learned to make it evenly and well, it will be found superior for bags, lingerie, and many other articles requiring a drawstring or cord.

A Serviceable Sweater

Use fourfold Germantown zephyr and a pair of No. 5 needles, with one pair two sizes smaller. As the sizes or numbers of needles vary, and also do methods of knitting, it is a good plan to work a little block before beginning the pattern. Cast on, say, 12 stitches, knit across and purl back, repeating these two rows until you have a square. There should be 5 stitches to the inch in width, and seven rows should make an inch in length. If you get less, use larger needles, say No. 6.

It is also a good plan to practise on the pattern a little, so that you will become familiar with it and can narrow or widen and still keep the ridge. Cast on any number of stitches divisible by four, with one stitch over, knit 2, purl 2, until but one stitch remains, and knit that. All rows are the same, the odd stitch breaking the rib and making a ridge. When you come to the decreasing later you can tell whether you are keeping the pattern correct, by watching the knitted stitch, which forms a sort of chain right on top of the ridge, and must be kept throughout.

Left front: Cast on 65 stitches on the larger needles and knit 12 rows plain for the band at lower edge.

13. Knit 10 (these stitches are for the plain border up the front), * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from *, knitting last stitch.

14. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from *, knitting last 10. Repeat these two rows until you have 110 rows in all.

111. Knit 2, narrow, knit 6; finish row in pattern.

112. In pattern until 9 stitches remain, knit these.

113. Knit 2, narrow, knit 5; continue in pattern.

114. In pattern, knitting last 8 stitches.

115. Knit 2, narrow, knit 4; continue in pattern.

116. Like 114th, knitting 7 at end.

117. Knit 2, narrow, knit 3; continue in pattern.

118. Like 114th, knitting last 6.

119. Knit 2, narrow, knit 2; continue in pattern.

120. Bind off 3, knit in pattern to within 5 stitches of end, knit these.

121. Knit 2, narrow, knit 1; continue in pattern.

122. Like 120th row, knitting 4 at end.

123. Knit 2, narrow; continue in pattern.

124. Like 120th row, knitting 3 at end.

125, 127, 129. Like 123d row.

126, 128. Bind off 1, knit in pattern until 3 stitches remain, knit these.

130. Knit in pattern until 3 stitches remain, knit these.

Continue to work until you have completed the 171st row, doing the odd rows like the 123d and even rows like 130th, when you should have 23 stitches on the needle. From this point work until you have completed the 183d row, increasing at beginning of 172d, 176th and 180th rows by knitting in the back, then in the front of the 2d stitch. You should then have 20 stitches on the needle. Knit one plain row (the 184th) and bind off.

Right front: Begin like left front, doing 12 plain rows.

13. Knit 10, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * to end, knitting last stitch.

14. Knit 2, purl 2, repeat until 11 stitches remain, purl 1, knit 10. Repeat last two rows until you have 27 rows in all.

28. Knit as usual until you have the 10 border stitches remaining, knit 3, bind off 3, knit 4.

29. Knit 4, cast on 3, knit 3, and continue as usual. This forms the buttonhole. Make five buttonholes at equal distances apart, and begin the narrowing for collar in the 11th row, continuing like left front.

Back: Cast on 79 stitches and knit 12 rows plain; then work in the pattern until you have 120 rows in all, which brings the work to the armhole.

121. Bind off 2 stitches and knit remainder as usual, taking care to keep the pattern. Repeat this row seven times, when you will have taken 8 stitches from each side. Knit 48 rows in pattern on the remaining 63 stitches.

177, 178. Knit in pattern until within 7 stitches of the end; turn, leaving these stitches on left-hand needle without knitting.

179, 180. Knit in pattern to within 13 stitches of the end (including the 7 stitches previously left), turn.

181, 182. Knit in pattern to within 19 stitches of end, turn.

183. Knit 4, narrow, (knit 5, narrow) twice, knit rest plain, to end of needle.

184. Knit plain entirely across, and bind off.

Sleeves. Cast on 97 stitches.

1. Knit 40, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 3 times, purl 1, turn.

2. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 4 times, knit 1, turn.

3. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 5 times, purl 2, knit 1, turn.

4. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 7 times, knit 1, turn.

5. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 8 times, knit 3, turn.

6. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 10 times, knit 1, turn.

7. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 11 times, purl 2, knit 1, turn.

8. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 13 times, knit 1, turn.

9. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 14 times, knit 3, turn.

10. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 16 times, knit 1, turn.

11. Slip 1 knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 17 times, purl 2, knit 1, turn.

12. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * until but 7 stitches remain, turn.

13. Like 12th row, leaving 4 stitches at end.

14. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat to end, knitting last stitch.

15. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat to end, knitting last stitch. Continue to knit in pattern, decreasing at beginning and end of every 8th row until 73 stitches remain, then knit without decreasing until you have 120 rows, counting from the 15th row.

Take the smaller needles and commence the cuff on the sleeve-stitches as follows: Slip 1, (narrow, knit 2) 3 times, (narrow, knit 1) 14 times, narrow, knit 2, to end of row.

Repeat last 3 rows until you end with 2 stitches and bind off.

Pockets.--With the larger needles cast on 23 stitches.

1. Knit 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * across, ending with knit 2.

2. Slip 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat, ending with purl 1, knit 1.

3. Slip 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat, ending with knit 2.

Repeat last two rows until you have 32 rows in pattern, then knit 10 rows plain for top of pocket and bind off.

To make up the coat, first press the border of fronts; stretch into shape, pin to an ironing-board, cover with a damp cloth and press with a fairly hot iron until the cloth is dry. This will prevent the coat from drawing up, as the ribs are inclined to do. For sewing, use a blunt-pointed needle to avoid splitting the wool. Sew up the side and shoulder-seams, taking a stitch from each edge and keeping the edges perfectly even, being careful not to draw the sewing-yarn so tightly as to pucker the seam in the least. Sew up the sleeves, and place the sleeve-seam an inch to the front of the side-seam, easing in any fulness there is around the top. Place the center of collar at center of back before sewing on; this must be done on right side of coat, and the collar turned over. Sew on the pockets, matching the ridges, and sew on five pearl or bone buttons, about three-fourths of an inch in diameter, to correspond with the buttonholes, placing a small pearl button at the back of the larger one on wrong side of coat and sewing through both together.

This coat measures twenty-six inches from shoulder to hem. It may easily be made longer, if desired, but the model is an excellent one for ordinary wear, and very "natty," and it has the merit of being quickly knitted.

As has been suggested, a good way to do, when knitting a sweater in any stitch, is to have a pattern and work to fit that. First, have a coat cut from any old cloth, and of any style desired. Seam it up and try it on, having it fitted nicely, then cut along the seam and take apart. Fasten the different parts on a smooth surface by means of thumbtacks and knit to measure, without stretching your work.

Ladies' Sweater

This sweater requires five skeins of knitting-worsted, and four balls of Angora; electric blue for the body of the garment, and gray Angora were combined in the model, but other colors may be chosen at pleasure. The work is done in plain knitting, back and forth, with ribbed belt. With the knitting-worsted and No. 5 needles, cast on 119 stitches for the back, which will measure about twenty-four inches, and knit 48 ribs, or 96 rows. Next row, * narrow, knit 4; repeat from *. Then change to No. 12 steel needles and do 20 rows in triple rib (knit 3, purl 3) for the belt. Change to No. 5 needles and knit 20 ribs; then decrease 1 stitch at end of needle every other row five times. Knit 29 ribs plain, or without decreasing. Next row, knit 34 stitches, slip them on to a spare needle, bind off 21 stitches for neck, and on the remaining 34 stitches, knit 4 ribs; then cast on 30 stitches at the neck, knit 29 ribs, increase 1 stitch at armhole every other row five times, and knit 22 ribs plain. Change to the steel needles, and work the belt as directed for the back, (purl 3, knit 3,) starting from front edge. Having completed the belt--20 rows of triple rib--change to No. 5 needles; * knit 4, increase 1 stitch, repeat from *. Then knit 48 ribs and bind off on the wrong side. Knit the other front to correspond, omitting buttonholes if these are used.

For the sleeve: Working on right side of sweater, pick up 1 stitch on each rib around the armhole, 72 stitches in all; knit 8 ribs, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of needle every 8th rib, eight times. Change to steel needles and knit 12 ribs for the wrist; change to the larger (No. 5) needles, * knit 4, narrow; repeat across, then knit 12 ribs, join the Angora, knit 7 ribs, and bind off.

Collar: Using No. 5 needles and the knitting-worsted, cast on 65 stitches; knit 28 ribs. Join the Angora wool, knit 11 rows, increasing 1 stitch at each end of needle every other row, and bind off. Working on right side of collar pick up 1 stitch on each rib at the side, knit 11 rows, increasing 1 stitch every other row toward the corner and keeping the neck edge even, and bind off. Make the other side of collar to correspond and sew up the mitered corners. The border of Angora wool may be as much wider as one chooses to make it by adding more rows or ribs.

Two large buttons covered with the knitting-worsted--either knitted or crocheted--and furnished with a loop sewed on each side, are used to fasten the belt.

For the buttons: Using a bone hook which will carry the yarn, make a chain of 3 stitches, turn, and in 2d stitch of chain make 8 doubles; in next round make 2 doubles in each stitch, working in both veins so there will be no rib; then make 1 double in 1st stitch, 2 in next, and repeat. Continue to work around and around until you have a circle which will cover the button-mold--5 rounds in all were required for top of buttons used on model, work around without widening, slip in the mold, then * miss 1, a double in next, and repeat until the cover is closed. If preferred, knit a tiny square as you did the body of the garment; and use this to cover the mold, drawing it snugly over, and fastening underneath. For the loop, make a chain of 30 stitches, turn and make a double in each stitch; fasten securely beneath the button.

Ladies' Knitted Gloves with Fancy Backs

Use No. 16 steel needles, with Spanish knitting-yarn or worsted. Cast on 57 stitches.

1. Purl 2, slip and bind, (over, knit 1) 5 times, over, narrow, purl 2, knit 6; repeat twice.

2. Purl 2, knit 13, purl 2, knit 6; repeat.

3. Purl 2, slip and bind, knit 9, narrow, purl 2, knit 6; repeat.

4. Purl 2, slip and bind, knit 7, narrow, purl 2, knit 6; repeat.

5. Same as 4th row.

6. Purl 2, slip and bind, (over, knit 1) 5 times, over, narrow, purl 2, take 3 of the 6 stitches off on a separate needle, hold this at back of work, knit next 3 stitches, then knit the 3 on separate needle; repeat.

Continue in pattern, twisting the "cable" as directed every 6th row, until the wrist is seven patterns in length. Then carry one cable up back of hand, with an openwork stripe each side, and knit plain across palm.

Commence thumb at top of wrist. As the gloves are right and left, care must be taken in starting the thumb so that both will not be for the same hand. On the left-hand glove the thumb is started at right of the stripe, on the right-hand glove at the left of stripe. Begin thumb with widen, knit 1, widen; knit 3 rows as usual, then widen, knit 3, widen; continue in this way until you have widened the thumb to 17 stitches. Put these on 2 needles, on a 3d needle cast on 7 stitches, join and knit once around, in each of next 3 rounds narrow 1 of the 7 stitches, arrange the stitches evenly on 3 needles, knit two inches, then narrow at end of each needle until you have 6 remaining, put these on 2 needles and bind off.

Continuing with the hand, pick up the 7 stitches cast on at base of thumb, knit to the base of the little finger, and divide the stitches on 2 needles, or, if more convenient, take them off on a twine. For the little finger: Take 8 stitches from back needle and 8 from front, and cast on 6 stitches, knit once around plain, narrow off 1 of the 6 stitches in each of next 5 rounds, knit 2 inches, narrow 1 stitch at end of each needle until 6 stitches remain, put these on 2 needles and bind off.

First Finger: Pick up the 6 stitches cast on for little finger, knit to the middle, take 8 stitches from each side next the thumb, cast on 6 stitches for inside of finger, knit once around plain, in next 4 rounds narrow off 1 of the 6 stitches, knit two and one-half inches, and finish off as before.

Third Finger: Pick up the 6 stitches cast on for first finger, knit them, knit plain, leaving 9 stitches toward little finger, putting these on separate needle, 9 stitches from other side, cast on 6 stitches, knit until you get to those left for little finger, narrow 1 of these and 1 of the 6 each time around for 6 rounds, knit two and one-half inches, and finish off as directed.

Middle Finger: Pick up the 6 from last finger, knit around plain, proceed as directed for third finger, knit two and three-fourths inches plain and finish off.

Knitted Slippers with Ermine Trimming

Materials required are three skeins fourfold Germantown yarn, two colors, and one yard of ribbon. Pink and white yarn, with a little black, and pink ribbon are used for the slippers illustrated.

Cast on 15 stitches with white yarn, using medium-size steel needles. Knit back and forth until you have a perfect square of white, then join the color. The square is for the toe of slipper.

Knit back and forth on the 15 stitches until you have a strip long enough to extend around the sole of slipper and join to the square on other side, leaving two sides and one corner for the toe.

Darn the white with black; beginning at lower right-hand corner, bring the needle through the first two ribs and down between next two, miss three ribs, keeping the long thread on the wrong side, and repeat, having every other row alternate. This may be done before the strip is joined to opposite side of square, if more convenient. Sew to the sole, using strong thread and over-and-over stitches. The strip should be stretched somewhat during the sewing, in order to make the slipper cling well to the foot.

For the border: Cast on 10 stitches with white and knit plain, back and forth, until the strip is long enough to go around the top. Darn with the black yarn, making three rows, over one rib and under three, alternating the stitches. Sew to top of slipper, turn back, and put on the bows.

These slippers are very easily knitted, extremely pretty and may be made to fit any size of sole. For a larger slipper cast on an additional number of stitches for the square, which will make the strip proportionally wider; knit it long enough for the larger sole, and make the border wider, if desired. A smaller slipper is begun with less stitches, following the same general directions.

Babies' Long Bootees

Two colors of Saxony, blue and white or pink and white, and two steel knitting-needles, No. 14, are required for these bootees.

With color, cast on 57 stitches.

1. Knit plain.

2. With white, knit 4, over, knit 3, * slip, narrow and bind, knit 3, over, knit 1, over, knit 3; repeat from * to end of row.

3. Purl.

Repeat last 2 rows three times; with color knit 2 rows; with white repeat 2d and 3d rows twice, and again knit 2 rows plain with color and 2 rows plain with white.

With white knit 14 rows of single rib (knit 1, purl 1).

With color knit 2 rows plain; then with white knit 8 rows in single rib; repeat the last 10 rows, and again knit 2 rows plain, with color.

With white knit 1 row, purl 1 row, alternately, for 4 rows; this gives the appearance of plain knitting on the right side.

Make a row of spaces in which to run ribbon, thus: Knit 2, * over 3 times, narrow, knit 1; repeat from * to end of row. Purl back, dropping 2 of the "overs."

Again knit forward and purl back for 5 rows; then knit 15 rows in single rib, completing the leg.

For the instep: Slip 1st 18 stitches on to the needle, join in the color, knit 21 stitches, turn and knit back. With white knit 1 row and purl 1 row, alternately, for 6 rows. Repeat last 8 rows three times, which will give four white stripes and the same of narrow ones, in color; again knit forward and back with color.

For the slipper or foot, using color, knit off 18 stitches on right-hand needle, pick up and knit 17 stitches along the side of instep, knit 21 across instep, pick up 17 on other side and knit the 18 stitches on left needle. Knit back and forth plain for 20 rows and bind off. Sew up the foot and back of leg, and draw ribbon through the spaces.

These bootees come up well to the knee, and are warm as well as pretty. The ribbed portions cause them to fit snugly, so they are not likely to slip down and off the little feet.

Child's Knitted Mittens

Use Saxony yarn with needles of suitable size, as you knit tight or loose. No. 17 is a good average size. Cast 18 stitches on each of three needles.

Knit 2, purl 1; repeat, until the wrist is of length desired, say two inches.

For the pattern, knit as follows:

1. Purl.

2, 3, 4. Knit 2, purl 1.

These 4 rows are repeated throughout.

Begin to widen for the thumb in the 2d row above the wrist; to widen pick up a stitch between needles and knit it, knit 1, widen, and continue in pattern. Knit 2 rows, in pattern, and again widen, knit 3, widen, across base of thumb. Continue in this way, adding 2 stitches between the widenings every 3d row, and keeping as closely as possible to the pattern, until you have 21 stitches across the thumb. Knit around twice in pattern and take the thumb-stitches off on a strong thread.

Knit around in pattern, and when you come to the thumb cast on 7 stitches, or one third the number widened for the thumb. Continue knitting the hand to the tip of the little finger, then commence narrowing. The manner in which this is done depends on the shape of the hand to be fitted. For an ordinary mitten, narrow every 5th stitch, and knit 5 times around; then narrow every 4th stitch and knit 4 times around; every 3d stitch and knit 3 times around; every 2d stitch and knit twice around; then narrow, knit 1, repeat around, knit once around, narrow every stitch, draw yarn through, and darn the end neatly and securely. It is an excellent plan to "run" the tip of a mitten on the wrong side, as you do the heel of a stocking, since it makes it wear longer, especially if intended for rough usage. The narrowing of a child's mitten may begin with every 4th stitch. Also, if the hand is long and slender, an additional row may be knitted between the widenings for the thumb.

Take the stitches off the thread on 2 needles, and with the 3d pick up and knit the stitches across the hand, which were cast on. When knitting around the first time, narrow once each end of the picked-up stitches.

Even the stitches on the needles, and knit around in pattern until you reach the base of the nail, then narrow off, beginning with once in 3 stitches. Draw through the last stitches at tip and darn down.

Knee-Cap

Elderly people, or those at all inclined to rheumatic twinges, appreciate the knee-cap, and a pair of them will make a most acceptable gift to grandpa or grandma. No. 12 steel needles and Germantown yarn were used for the model, which may be made more or less heavy, as desired, by choosing coarser or finer yarn.

Cast 35 stitches upon each of three needles and knit around 30 times in single rib--that is, knit 1, purl 1, alternately. You are now ready to begin the gore, which may be done in single rib, like the rest, or in basket-stitch (or other fancy pattern) as in the model.