CHAPTER XXVII

DIVES CALLAECIA

The dignity of human beings--Mineral wealth of Galicia--Gold in the sand--Ancient authorities--Ireland and Spanish gold--Visigothic coins--Galicia’s secret--Turned up by the plough--Medicinal springs--Mineral waters--Climate never extreme--The baths at Lugo--Borrow’s account--An island hydropathic establishment--Hot springs--Galicia as a health resort--Mondariz--Women in the fields--Amazons--Martial zeal--Wellington and the Gallegan soldiers--“The inimitable Gallegans”--Another word about their reputed stupidity--Great men--Making a list--Fare thee well

“Whatever withdraws us from the power of our senses,” said Samuel Johnson, “whatever makes the past, the distant, or the future predominate over the present, advances us in the dignity of human beings.” We cannot study the past of a spot so full of human interest as Galicia without some gain; we cannot study the physical beauties of the Spanish Switzerland without being transported for a time to those mountains and valleys that the Gallegans love so passionately, to those limpid streams and those beautiful rias. The mind needs change of air just as the body, and a few hours spent in that distant corner of Spain will, I trust, have been as refreshing to the mind of the reader as a few months spent in travelling and studying them were to the writer of this volume.

I have not exhausted my subject; it is too wide to be exhausted in a work six times the size of the present work. I have touched on too many points of interest to be able to do full justice to any: history, both ancient and mediæval, geography, architecture, archæology, natural history, ethnography, ethnology, climatology, literature, and many other branches of knowledge have had their share of my attention; yet, as I glance through what I have written, I am painfully conscious of how much has been omitted. I intended, amongst other things, to add a long chapter on the mineral wealth of Galicia, and another on the customs of the Gallegan peasants; but time and space fail me. With regard, however, to the mineral wealth of the country, to the character of its women, to the martial spirit of its men, and to the reputed stupidity of the Gallegans, I should like to add a few words to what has already been said.

The greater part of the mineral wealth of Galicia has never been exploited since the days of the Romans. From the train window, as I was passing through the province of Lugo, I saw the place where the Romans diverted the course of a Gallegan river that they might more easily attain the gold which lay hidden below its flowing waters. Morales--an eye-witness in the reign of Philip II.--stated that the Miño had gold in its sand, and that the bishop of Tuy showed him a nugget of purest gold as large as a chick-pea, and that the Count of Monterrey had let a part of this river which flowed through his estate for twenty ducados a year to people who searched for gold in its sand.

Both Justin and Silius Italicus mention the rich veins of gold in Gallegan soil. Justin speaks also of the abundance of lead, copper, and iron. Molina mentions the abundance of tin that in his day was extracted annually from Gallegan mines, and he adds in a note that gold-mines were once worked there. I have already alluded to a tradition current in Ireland, that the ancient Irish obtained their gold from Spain, and it is more than probable that the torques in the Dublin Museum, as well as those I have described, were made of Gallegan gold.

It is an interesting fact that nearly all the Visigothic coins that have been found are pure gold; this is another indication that gold was once plentiful in Galicia. Even in our day, poor women can earn three and four pesetas a day by sifting sand of the river Sil for gold. I have described the golden torques in Señor Cicerone’s museum--all of massive gold--and these we know were found buried in various spots in Galicia. Whence came the gold of which these were made? “This,” says Señor Villa-Amil, “is Galicia’s secret.” At present no one knows the whereabouts of any gold-mine in Galicia, but that is no proof that gold is not there.

Silius Italicus said that this province was so rich in veins of gold that nuggets of the precious metal were often turned up by the plough, and it was this fact which led him to speak of Galicia as _Dives Callaecia_.

Galicia is rich in medicinal springs, and her waters have been used to cure diseases from time immemorial. I have mentioned the remains of Roman baths (_thermæ_) at Bande (near Celanova) and at Lugo. It was from the Greeks that the Romans learned the value of medicinal waters, and they made wide use of them until the declining days of their greatness, when bathing came to be looked on as injurious and effeminate, and the old bathing establishments were allowed to go to ruin. In the ninth century, under Charlemagne, baths came once more into fashion, and new ones were established. In the fifteenth century a good deal was written about the curative powers of mineral waters, especially in Spain. Galicia has more of these springs than almost any part of Spain, and her climate is the most temperate: the sea, bounding her on two sides, modifies the heat of summer, so that in the hottest months the thermometer never stands higher than 20° _Reamur_; in the months of December, January, and February it does not often go below five and six degrees. As for the geological formation of the ground, it consists of layers of granite and gneiss for the most part, and of gneiss and mica in the neighbourhood of Coruña, Ferrol, and Betanzos; round Santiago, Sobrado, and Mellid there are found remarkable groups of amphibiolite and diorite, while serpentine (of a greenish colour) is also abundant. Slate is found in many varieties, and near Mondoñedo there are fossilised shells, including petrified bivalves. Quartz is very frequent. The alluvial soil near the rivers in the low-lying valleys is covered with water in winter.

Lugo has sulphur springs on the banks of the Miño; the bathing establishment is built with a patio and galleries round four separate springs, and there is hotel accommodation for a large number of visitors; these baths are considered to be the best in Galicia. Borrow, who visited them in 1836, wrote that they were “built over warm springs that flow into the river. Notwithstanding their ruinous condition, they were crowded with sick.... The patients exhibited a strange spectacle, as, wrapped in flannel gowns much resembling shrouds, they lay immersed in the tepid waters amongst disjointed stones and overhung with steam and reek.” The water smells strongly of sulphur, and on coming in contact with the air acquires a milky appearance. Its iodine has wonderfully healing properties in cases of scrofula, glandular swellings, and dyspepsia, also in cases of muscular rheumatism. As I have said elsewhere, Pliny wrote about these baths, and part of the Roman buildings may still be seen.

Another place where there are baths is Carballo, in the province of Coruña; here the older springs are _sulfuro-sodico_, and the new _sulfuro-calcico_, although all are close together. On the little island of Toja, near Villagarcia, there are some mineral springs which are now being exploited by a company; they are visited by sufferers from skin diseases, but chiefly during the month of July. The season only lasts a few weeks, and during that period a doctor resides on the island and superintends the bathing establishment. At Caldas de Reyes, fifteen kilometres from Pontevedra, there are also hot sulphur springs, and I have already spoken at length of the Hot Springs at Orense. Galicia has innumerable iron springs. In 1878, Señor Varela Paga published tables showing that the waters of Galicia were richer by far in medicinal properties than the best of those in France, and he added that the mineral springs of this province were, without doubt, of immense importance, and that the two things wanting to place them amongst the most renowned curative resorts in Europe were good ways of communication and good hydropathic establishments.

The most modern of all the hydropathic establishments in Galicia is that of Mondariz, situated a few miles to the south of Pontevedra in the valley of Mondariz. Patients go there to drink the waters of two widely renowned springs called respectively Gandara and Troncoso; their waters are considered particularly beneficial in cases of dyspepsia (now looked upon rather as a symptom than a disease) and other stomach troubles.[306] The establishment for the reception of guests is very large, and the prices are in proportion to its grandeur. Lady visitors are requested to wear no hats except when attending Mass. The scenery of the surrounding mountains and valleys is very beautiful, and there are some exquisite drives, one being to Castello Mos, the mediæval castle which I have described in my chapter on Pontevedra.

And now a last word about the Gallegan women. I have said that the women of Galicia work in the fields like men, and that most of the agricultural labour is necessarily performed by them, seeing that the men emigrate in such numbers. It is interesting in this connection to note that Justin wrote of the women of ancient Galicia, as not only having the care of all domestic matters, but also cultivating the fields while their men-folk gave themselves to the pursuits of war. “Their travail,” says Ford, “was not simply agricultural, for, according to Strabo (III. 250), they merely stepped aside out of the furrows to be brought to bed, if such a term may be used, returning back to their other labours just as if they had only laid an egg. The men were worthy of such Amazons.” But Ford overlooked the fact that it was of the people of Galicia that Strabo was writing when he said that it was customary for the husband to retire to his bed for a short period as soon as his child was born. Aguiar draws attention to this extraordinary practice in his History of Galicia. This writer also remarks that the proverb so common all over Spain, to the effect that he who is unfortunate and needs assistance should “seek his Gallegan mother,” was another indication of the Celtic origin of the Gallegans, the Celts having always held their women in honour.[307]

The martial zeal of the men of ancient Galicia is constantly referred to by historians: they were a foe against whom both Julius Cæsar and D. Brutus were proud to have waged war; and later, in the days of the Saracen invasion, they were the only Spaniards that the Moors could not conquer. And what about their courage and endurance in modern times? What did the Duke of Wellington think of the fighting qualities of the Gallegans who fought under his banner against the French invaders? So pleased was the Iron Duke with his Gallegan soldiers, that before leaving the country he issued a proclamation in honour of the fourth Spanish army:--

“Warriors of the civilised world! Learn heroism from the individuals of the fourth army, which it has been my good fortune to lead into the field. Every one of its soldiers has merited more justly than myself the command that I hold.... Strive all of you to imitate the inimitable Gallegans. Let their intrepidity be remembered to the end of the world, for it has never been surpassed....”

The fourth army was composed of Gallegans and Asturians, each of which received their separate meed of praise from the Duke. This proclamation was issued at Lesata, and bears the date September 4, 1813.

And now a final word about the reputed stupidity of the Gallegans. Galicia has from time immemorial produced more great intellects, more literary men, and more poets, than any other province in the Peninsula. Not only can Galicia boast of having a first Golden Age and a second Golden Age, but she can also produce a long list of glorious names reaching right up to the present day. I have mentioned a few of these, but space has not allowed me to refer to more than a few. I have said nothing of Saavedra, or of Martin Garcia Sarmiento, both born in Pontevedra; of that famous woman, Maria Francisca de Isla y Lozada, born in Santiago, who was called by Bossuet “the pearl of Galicia”; of the seventeen eminent cardinals who were natives of Galicia; and of the innumerable other illustrious sons whom Galicia has given to Spain. Señor Cabeza Leon, professor of International Law at Santiago University--whose kind assistance in connection with my research work has been invaluable--tells me that he has already collected and verified the names of more than a thousand famous Spaniards who came from Galicia.

And how does Galicia stand to-day? I can answer without hesitation that she stands well to the front. A large proportion of the intellects that are governing Spain from Madrid at the present moment have come from this province. Two of Spain’s greatest living archæologists, Villa-Amil y Castro and Lopez Ferreiro, are sons of Galicia; and “the best authoress that Spain has produced during the present century,”[308] Doña Emilia Pardo Bazán, is Galicia’s daughter. So much for the stupidity of the Gallegans.

* * * * *

Fare thee well, Galicia! Thou art a land where railways have preceded roads, and where motor-cars have arrived before trains; thou art a land whose peasants are oppressed by bad government, usury, and their own crass ignorance; thou art a land where glorious monuments of mediæval architecture are left to fall into melancholy ruin and decay, when they should be guarded amongst the most precious treasures of the nation, a book in which the Spanish youth might read and learn of the achievements and aspirations of their ancestors; thou art a land that for the wonderful richness of thy soil and the exuberance of thy vegetation might be made the Garden of Europe. All these thou art, and more; yet not only art thou practically unknown to the rest of the world, but thou art forgotten even by Spain: thy own Peninsula is almost unconscious of thy existence, though thou art the spot which has provided her with her most sacred traditions, her poetry, her _trovadors_, and her Patron Saint. Thy beautiful mountains, thy pine-clad peaks, thy waterfalls, thy torrents and thy rias, thy smiling valleys and thy mossy ravines, thy terraced slopes and thy limpid streamlets, are separated from the rest of Europe by the waters of the River of Oblivion.

It may be that some of the prominent men who are thy children would hesitate to own that thou hadst given them birth; but thy simple peasants, when they cross the wide seas to seek their fortune in a distant land, carry their passionate love for Galicia to those far-off shores, and sometimes, sometimes--they die of the anguish that is called homesickness.

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INDEX

Aarlberg Pass, 333

Abderrahmen I., mosque of, 83

Acorns as food, 212

Acuña, _Historiæ_ quoted, 301-2

Adozno, 332

Aecius, Sueve, 28-29

Africanus, Scipio, 13

Agriculture-- Agricultural Syndicate of Coruña, 172; need for knowledge, 179; the Gallegan plough, 212-13; carts, 213; fields of Noya, 240-41

Aguiar, 2-3, 9-10, 178, 195; on Gallegan dulness, 178

Aguilar y Torrea, Don Antonio, 270

Aimerico, 69

Alanes, 29

Alba River, 255

Alcala de Henares, 265 _note_

Aldrede, _quoted_, 54 _note_

Alexander III., Pope, 77

Alexander IV., Pope, 67

Alfonso I., 301

Alfonso II., _el Casto_, 62, 271

Alfonso VI., 94, 101, 279

Alfonso VII., 124, 195

Alfonso VIII., 317, 318

Alfonso X., _el Sabio_-- Cantigas of, 44-46, 52, 54-57, 205; will of, 50

Alfonso of Portugal, 282

Alfred and Orosius, 30-33

Alhambra, the, 328

Allariz, church of, Santiago, 295; mentioned by Ptolemy, 295-96

Almanzor, 42-43, 200

Alonso, Sr. Benito F., _quoted_, 26, 76, 290 and _note_

Altamira, castle of, 232-33

Alvarez, Jacome, 150

Alvarez, Sr. Eugenie, 293

Ambia, family of, 296

Ambrose, St., 39

America, South-- Immigration into, 174-76, 247 and _note_; herds of, 214; rock-drawings, 274

Amiens Cathedral, 98 _note_, 109; statues, 122

Amil, Villa-, 6, 7, 136

Anastasius the Librarian, _quoted_, 75-76

Ancares, Sierra de, 18

Ancient Britons, poetry of the, 185

Andalusia, 6; socialism, 175, 184; education, 178; mule-breeding, 180; students of, 192

Anderson, Jos., 68

Andrade, family of, 314

Andrade, Fernán Peréz de, Sarcophagus, 312

Andrew, Bishop, 226

Angeles, Juan de, 293

Ansurio, Bishop, Sarcophagus, 337

Antealtares, convent of, 104

Antela, lake of, 20

Antelo, Andreo, 103

Antiquarians of Scotland Society, 68, 274-75

Antoninus, 223, 290

Apacius, 219

Aquada, 321

Aquasantas, 296

Aquitaine, trouvadores of, 55

Arabs in Galicia, 301

Aragon, architecture of, 81

Arbo, 286

Arcade, 269

Arcadius, 15, 31

Arch, the horseshoe, 82-84, 331; circular, 84-85

Archæological monuments of Galicia, 42

Archæological Museum, Santiago, 205

Archæological Society of Orense, 26; of Pontevedra, 262, 274

Architecture of Galicia, 78-93 Mudejar, 80-81, 331; Byzantine, 82; _Spanish_--the horseshoe arch, 82-84, 331; the circular arch, 84-85; two streams of influence, 86-87; the _Capital_--sculptured capitals, 126-135; favourite subjects, 126; plain, of English cathedrals, 126-27; foliage, 127-28; scalloped, 131; Corbels, 238; the rectangular apse, 284; Gallegan-Gothic, 303; Visigothic,332

Arellano, Ramirez de, 302

Arenas, the Crucifix of, 290

Arezzo, 6; MSS of Etheria, 36

Argalo, 243

Argentina-- Development, 153; emigration to, 174-75

Arianism in Galicia, 29, 84, 86, 294, 303

Armijo, Marquis de la Viga de, 268

Arosa, 219

Arosa, Ria de, 17, 254, 255

Arraduca, 295

Art, lay schools of thirteenth century, 129-30

Arteago, Señor, collection, 208

Artisans, corporations of, 81

Asclepiades, 10

Asia, Central, mud-ovens of, 241

Astorga, 294

Asturias, 17; horses, 214; bears, 215; trade, 344

_Atatiar_, 349

Ataulf, 86

Augustines, the, 72

Augustus, S., 15, 31-32

Augustus, towers of, Padron, 230

Autun Cathedral, 114

Avalos, Gaspar, 255

Avitus I. and II., 39

Ayerbe, Marquesa de, her book, 271-272

Ayerbe, Marquis de, 271 _note_

Ayras, Juan, 53 _note_

_Babus_, the, 6

Bacchiarius, monk, 39

Balearic Isles, 170, 216

Ball, Robert, 207

Banda-- Church of Santa Comba, 329-32; village, 332-33; Roman baths, 353

Barbeito, Juan de, 256

Barca, Hamilcar, 13

Barcelona, 169-70, 192

Barrows, 6

Bartlett, Mr., 157 _note_

Barveron, Mount, 339-40

Basque language in Galicia, 4, 242 and _note_

Basques, the, 192

Baths, Roman, 331, 353; medicinal, 353-55

Bayona, 255, 278; _Colegiata_, 284; the Assembly held, 292

Bazán, Emilia Pardo, 188 _note_, 357 and _note_

Bearny, Viscount de, 266

Bedoza, lectures, 193

Bellini, Mariano, 272

Benedict XIV., 284

Bentrazes, Palazio de, 325-26

Berceo, Gonzalo de, 44

Bergidensis, 34

Berigel, Archbishop, 235

Berlin, 278; Ethnographical Museum, 273

Bermúdez, Cean, 138

Bermudo III., 195

Bernard, Archbishop, tomb, 149-50

Bernard, John H., 36 and _note_

Bernardo, 98

Berni, 98 _note_

Besada, Señor, 18

Betanzos-- Churches of, 88 _note_, 310-12; history, 308-9; the _Fiesta de Caneiros_, 309; Bravio, 310; Nuestia Señora del Caneiro, 310; ancient caverns, 311; church of Santiago, 311-12; San Francisco, 312

_Bibalatarin_, 83

Bibilis, the, 22

Bibles, manuscript, 195

Bilbao, 218

Biscay, Bay of, 17, 153-54; lampreys, 219

Blanco, Sr. Romero, 247

Boabdil, 205

Bætica, 15

Boissier, _quoted_, 40

Bokhara, synagogues of, 265

Bologna University, 90

Boneval, Bernal de, 53 _note_

Boniface VIII., 54

Borrow, George, 75; translation of the Bible, 4; on Sir John Moore, 157; _quoted_, 176; in Padron, 222; on the Franciscan convent, Lugo, 306

Bosworth, Joseph, translation of _Orosius_, 30-31

_Botafumeiro_, 72-75

Boulders, rocking, 7

Bourgogne, sculptured foliage, 129

Braga, 1, 31, 39, 294, 296; Church Council, 226, 301; cathedral, 291

Braga, Theophilo, 3 and _note_ 2, 55

Brambach, W., 44

Bravio, 310

Brest, 154

Bretons, 8

Bridge of Pines, Granada, 83-85

Bridget, St., 69

_Briga_, the Celtic word, 152

Brigantium, 14

British Museum, 68

Brunelleschi, 90, 91

Brutus, Decimus, “Callaicus,” 8; in Spain, 13-14, 20-21

Buckle, 78, 79

Buenos Ayres, 153

Bull-fights, 170, 252

Burgas, Las, 293

Burgos, 171, 266; Cathedral, 93; the Crucifix, 290

Byzantine Art, 81; frescoes, 123

Cabbage, the, 348-49

Cabe, the, 334-35

Cadiz, 13; Tower of Hercules, 162; emigration, 177

Cæsar, Julius, in Spain, 2, 3, 7, 8, 10, 14-15; in Britain, 32-33

Cæsar’s Bridge, 228

Cairuan Grand Mosque, 84-85

Calaicos, term, 9

Caldas de Reyes springs, 355

Cale, 9

Calixtus II., Codex of, 63-65, 73, 94, 96, 99 and _note_, 301

Calybe, the, 22

Calyphate, the, 43

Cambden, William, 11

Cambiadores, Hermandad de, 52

Cambre, 312-14

Camelli, Pedro, 343

_Campo Santo_, 161-62

Campo, Sr. E., 273

Campomanes, Count of, 179-80

Cana, Pay de, 53 _note_

Canadian Rockies, 319

Cangas, 277

Cano, Adolfo, 228

Canterbury Cathedral, capitals, 127; sculpture, 131

_Capas de junco_, 203

Capilla de Las Animas, 198-99

Carballo baths, 354

Carboeiro, Monastery of, 195

Cardiff, trade with Galicia, 245, 344

Cardoso, Jorge, 28

Carlos III., 218

Carlsruhe, 299

Carmelite convent, Santiago, 205

Carmelites, 227

Carnac, J. H. Rivett, 273

Carnivals, 203

Carracedo, Cistercian monastery, 33

Carrara marble, 161

Carriarico, Sueve, 289, 294

Carril, 201; oysters, 219

Carthaginians, the, 12, 13; coins, 206

Cartwheels, singing, 213, 233, 241

Casa da Moura, 247

Casanova, Fernandez, 95, 96, 132

Casanova, Sofia, 184

Casares, Dr. Miguel Gil, 144

Casas y Novoa, Fernando de, 93, 105

Cassiterides, the, identification, 11-12, 278

Castelar, Emilio _quoted_, 185

Castille, education, 177; language of, 188

Castillo de Mos, 268-73, 355

_Castro de la Rocha_, the, 223

Castro, Filippo de, portrait, 196; bust, 234-35, 251

Castro, Juana de, 324

Castro, King, 203

Castro, Rosalia, nature of her poetry, 103, 182-83; her life, 184; _Follas Novas_, 184; _Cantares Gallegas_, 184, 189; Failde on, 184; the harp with two strings, 185; a short poem translated, 186; burial, 187; influence on the Gallegan language, 188; the “chirrio,” 213; the house where she died, 229

_Castros_, 6, 232-3

Catalina de Sandoval y Roja, 298-99

Catalina, Infanta, 73

Cataluña, 6

Catedral Vieja, the, 106, 132

Cathedrals, origin of, 89-90

Catherine of Aragon, 69

Catherine of Leon, 116

Cattle-breeding, 179-80

Cauca, town of, 4; the term _Cauca_, 4-5

Caumont, influence, 78 and _note_

Cea, 319, 320, 324-25

Cebrero, hill of, 22; hospital and church, 176-77; wood of, 217

Celanova, 294, 325, 329; Benedictine monastery, the drive to, 325-27; carved stalls, 327; sarcophagi, 327; relics, 327-28; the Eremita de San Miguel, 328-29

Celis, Juan de, 256

Celles Cathedral, 97

Celts in Galicia, 5-12, 244

Censers, swinging, 72-76

Censorius, Count, 29

Cerviño, Antonio, 178

Cesures, 228

Chain of St. James, 66

Champagne, Count, 52

Charcoal fires, 191-92

Chariño, Payo Gomez, 262-63

Charles III., 192, 315

Charles of Orleans, 52

Chartres Cathedral, 109; windows, 115; statues, 122; portico, 283

Chestnut, the, 344

Chili, emigration to, 175

Chinas, 210

Chinese early writings, 273

_Chirimias_, the, 75 and _note_

_Chirrio_, 213

Chocolate of Santiago, 191

Christchurch, Bournemouth, 115

Christian Art, symbolic character, 108-9

Church, the, influence in the Middle Ages, 79-80

Churriguera, José, 93; style of, 93, 105, 106

Ciceron, Sr. Ricardo Blanco, collection of, 205-9, 353

Cies, the, 277-78

Cimbri, the, 10

Cimmerians, 10

Cinania, 14

Cirencester, 33

_Civitas Limicorum_, 21, 25, 26

Clarions of Santiago, 75 and _note_

Claudia, poet, 15

Clavigo, 99, 311

Clement IV., 67

Clement, St., 72

Cluny, Monastery of, 88; monks, 97, 128

Cluny Museum, 68, 150

Coins, ancient, 206-7, 223, 233

Colegiata de Iria, 226

Colegiata de Santa Maria Vigo, 278

Colegio de Santa Cruz, Toledo, 138

Colegio de San Jerónimo, 200

Columbus, La Gallega, 22

Combarro, 265-67

Compostela, Pedro de, 47

Compostela, Santiago de. _See_ Santiago.

Congress, Catholic, at Munich, 43; Eucharistic, at Lugo, 306

Conjo, Church of, 62

Conques Cathedral, 96

Constantine, 81

Constantinople, 81-82

Consul, Francisco, 346

Contractus, Hermanus, 44, 45

Cordova, 5; Grand Mosque, 43, 83, 85-86; bronze work, 106

Corn-rent, Ramiro’s, 98-99

Cornide, Sr. Joseph, 11, 217, 219, 220

Cornwall, cup-marks, 274

Coruña-- Brigantia, 1, 14, 152, 191; province of, 152; Tower of Hercules, 154, 161-63; harbour, 154-55, 171; glass-covered verandahs, 155-56; gardens of San Carlos and tomb of Moore, 156-58; Campo Santo, 161-162; Francis Drake, 163-64; Church of St. George, 164; fishing industry of, 164-66; the making of ice, 165-166; chocolate factories, 166; the poor of, 166-69; the “Little Sisters of Charity,” 167-69; tobacco factories, 169; streets, 170; social life, 170; the Assembly, 170-71; churches, etc., of, 171; waterworks, 177; bulls of, 214; commercial importance, 277

Costina, Mount, 245

Credrie, 207

Cremation, 7

Crimea, vine-growing in, 264

Cristal, the name, 326

Cro-Magnon, 5

Cuba-- Trade with Spain, 166, 170; Gallegans in, 183; and Rosalia Castro, 187

Cubillas, the, 83, 85

Cuelos, Juan de los, 258

Cueva de los Letreros, 5

Cueva, Juan Muñoz de la, 290

Cup-markings, 273-75

Customs in Galicia-- The Mantilla, 199; water-carrying, 202; a wedding, 202-3; carnivals, 203; a village festival, 230; animals in dwelling-houses, 241-42; wrestling, 243; excursions or _Romerias_, 248; Holy Week ceremonies, 235, 249-51; use of umbrellas, 269; funerals, 307; use of mica, 326

Cypress tree, the, 325

Dalmatius, Bishop of Compostela, 97

Dante, 76

Daroca, 81

de Voguë, 185

Denmark, rock-writings of, 274

Dias, Pastor, 188 _note_

Didron, 108, 109 and _note_; on iconography, 122

Diomedes, King, 278

Dionisius, monk, MS. of, 122

_Diurno_, the, of Ferdinand I., 194-95

Dogson, Prof. of Oxford, 242

Dolmens, 6, 246, 247; on coast of Noya, 232

Dominguez, Fernando, 313

Dominicans, 227

Dorchester Church, Oxfordshire, 115

Drake, Sir Francis, 163-64, 201

Drowning, prevalence in Spain, 169

Dublin Museum, torques, 207, 353

Duero, 15

Durando, Guillermo, 46

Eadmer, 47

Easter Sunday markets, 251

Ecuador, population, 176

Education in Galicia, 177-78; _Institutos_, 197

Edward I., 76

Egas, Enrique, 138-39

Einsiedeln, 67

El Monteiro, 296

Elizabeth, Queen, 201, 266

Emigration from Galicia, causes, 172-77; Ford on, 177; evils of, 178-79; home-sickness of the emigrant, 183

England-- Pilgrims to Santiago from, 76; and Padron, 222-23; English at Vigo, 277; English enterprise in Galicia, 315-16

English cathedrals, plain capitals, 126-127, 131

Enrique II., 76

Enrique III., 260

Enriquez, Manuel Curros, 326

Eo, the, 22, 299

Epiphanius, S., 28

Eremita de San Miguel, 328-29, 332

Escos, 340

Escurial Collection, 3; library, 47

Estremadura-- Emigration, 117; mule-breeding, 180; pigs, 212

Estudio Viejo, the, 192

Etheria, story of, 33-38

Etruscan terra-cottas, 5-6

Eucalyptus, the, 345

Eucharistic Congress at Lugo, 306

Eugenius IV., 283

Eulogius, S., 28

Euphemia, Santa, 290-91

Eusebius of Cæsarea, 29

Evans, discoveries, 5

Fabius, Quintus, 13

Faciundo, San, 325

Factories, need for, in Galicia, 180

Failde, his book on Galicia, 178-81; on Rosalia Castro, 184, 187; on the Gallegan character, 185

Famiano, San, 317

Fegueroa, Marquis of, 52

Feijoó, _cited_, 50-51, 296

Ferdinand I., 194

Ferdinand II., 279

Ferdinand III., 177, 263

Ferdinand VI., 315

Ferdinand and Isabella, foundation of the Hospital Real, 136-37

Ferdinand of Leon, 282

Fernandez, Froila, 271

Fernando, King, 73

Férotin, Father Marius, 36, 37, 38

Férotin, M. Macias, 195

Ferrandez, Sr. Anton, 5

Ferreiro, José, 251

Ferreiro, Lopez, 24, 95 _note_, 96, 173

Ferrer, Mauro Castella, 68-69, 223

Ferrara, Ricobaldo de, 46

Ferro, Miguel, 71

Ferrol harbour, 22; oysters, 219; fortifications, 314-15; arsenal, 315-16

Fiesta de Caneiros, 309

Figueroa, Emmanuel Bonaventuræ, 196

Figueroa, Marquis of, _quoted_, 187

Filgueira, 287

Finisterre, Cape, 14, 17, 217, 245

Fish of Galicia-- Sardine industry, 217-18; anchovy, 218; salted cod, 218; lamprey, 219, 335; turbot, 219; oysters, 219-220; scallops, 220; cod, 220; salmon, 220; mullet, 220-21; trout, 221

Fishermen’s League of Pontevedra, 255-256

Fita _cited_, 223

Flacila, 15

Flamenco, Pedro, 103

Flax-growing, 345-46

Florence, Duomo, 91

Florez, _cited_, 8-9, 163

Fonseca, Archbishop, 69, 106, 192, 193, 225; will of, 195; portrait, 196

Fonseca, Medical College, 193

Ford, 192; on emigration, 177

Forum Limicorum, the, 26-27

France, 229; pilgrims from, 71-72; French troops at Tuy, 280

Frances, St., 69

Francis I., 91

Francis of Assisi, St., 55, 305

Franciscan monastery, Pontevedra, 262

Frari, Church of the, Venice, 305

Freira, 287

French language, 54-55

Fruime, 45

Froila, Sarcophagus of, 304, 329

Fructuoso, 195

Fructuosus, St., 39, 40 and _note_--42

Fruime, Cura de, 188

Fuencaliente, 5

Gaibor, J., 293

Gaita, the, 294

Galaico-Portuguese language, 55

Galba, 13

Galicia-- History, 1-16; the term “Galicia,” 8-9; boundaries, 17; configuration, 18; climate, 18-19; vegetation, 19-20; rivers, 20-22; harbours, 22; gardens, 22-23; first golden age of Galicia, 24-38; her second golden age, 49-59; language, 50-59, 187-88; architecture, 78-93; taxation, 173, 179; education, 177-178; cattle-breeding, 179-80; mule-breeding, 180; absence of factories in, 180; morals, 181; usury, 181; _trovadors_ of, 188; coinage, 206; minerals, 233, 353-55; monasteries, 317-42; trees, fruit, and flowers, 343-51; livestock, _see that title_; fish of, _see that title_

Gallegan arms, 22

Gallegan, the-- Home-sickness, 253; bravery, 356; stupidity, 356-57

Gallegos, the, 8-9

Gamurrini, M., discovery of, 36-38

Gandara, springs, 355

Garcia, Abbot, 317

Garcia, King, 287

Gautier, Léon, 56

Gelmirez, Archbishop, 54, 106, 149, 199, 280; book of, 62-63, 65; palace of, 134-35; his mint, 135

Geographical Society, the, 196

Georgia, 4

Geraldus, 207

German characteristics, 153

Geyer, Paul, 36

Ginzo, the, 20

Ginzo de Limia, 26

Giotto, 90

Girardo, 63

Gold, ancient objects of, 206-9; torques, 207-8, 233

Gomez de la Torre, Bishop, 283

Gomez-Morreno, Sr., 83, 84 _note_

Gonzalez, Amaro, diary, 201 and _note_

Gonzalez, Gomez, 147; tomb in Sar, 150

Gonzalez, Pedro, 258

Good Friday customs, 250

Gothic architecture, rise of, 88-90; symbolic character, 90-91; periods, 92

Goths in Galicia, 301

Granada-- Bridge of Pines, 83-84; art of, 87; conquest, 136; university, 192

Grandmaison, 292

Granite houses, 266, 269; amount of granite in Pontevedra, 268; a granite quarry, 269; granite villages, 320

Gratian, Emperor, 223

Greco, “St. Francis of Assisi,” 297

Greek churches, absence of statues, 122

Greek colonies, traces in Galicia, 10-11, 243, 278

Greek types of women, 246

Gregorian Chant, the, 267

Gregory the Great, St., 45 and _note_, 67

Guadalete River, the, 158

Guadalquivir, burning the bridge, 262-263

Guillen, Master, works, 102-3, 138, 140

Guina, peak of, 18

Handmills, 7

Hannibal, 13, 22

Hasan Ali, Abul, 205

Hedgehogs, 216

Hedges of granite, 268; of blackberries, 268-69

Helda, Donna Sancha Roca, 259

Henry II., 77

Herbon, Monastery of, 227-28, 230

Hercules, Isthmus of, 5; Pillar of, 12; Tower of, 12

Hermanricus II., 29

Herodotus, 10, 11, 206

Herrera, architect, 298

Herrero, 92

Hesiod, 212

Himilcon, expedition of, 11

Holanda, Cornelius de, 259

Honorius, Emperor, 15, 31

Hospital de San Lazaro, Sar, 150-51

Hospital de San Roque, 205

Hospital Real, the-- Foundation, 136-37; architecture, 137; statuary, 137-38; cloisters, 138-39; chapel, 139-42; sculptures, 140-42; belfry, 142; decadence, 142; the nuns of St. Vincent de Paul, 142-43; the kitchen, 143; efficiency, 143-44; Philip II. at, 201

Hot springs of Orense, 288-89

Houses, Portuguese and Spanish compared, 287. _See also_ Granite

Huerta y Vega, Manuel de la, _cited_, 8

Hugo of Porto, 63

Hugo, Victor, 74

Hundred Maidens, legend of the, 309, 311

Iberians, the, 4, 5, 244

Ice, making of, 165-66

Iconoclasts, 82

Idatius, Bishop, 4-- Birthplace, 25-28; and Aecius, 28-29; Chronicles, 29-30, 284

Ildefrede, Abbot, 61, 203

Immaculate Conception, the, 47-48

Incas, the, 265

Incense, first use of, 72 and _note_, 73; the censer of Santiago, 72-75

India, rock-inscriptions, 274

Inquisition, the, medal of, 263; and Sarmiento, 265

Inscriptions-- Of Limia, story of, 26-27; Roman, 223, 243-44, 306; cup-marks, 273-75; on the stone at Rocas, 341

_Institutos_, 197

Inverness, rock-drawings, 275

Ireland-- Poets of, 51 and _note_; art in, 127-28; emigration, 173, 177; the potato famine, 179; torques of gold, 207-8; “cup and ball” drawings, 273

Iria, 61, 223

Iron instruments, absence of, 7

Isabel of Granada, abbess, 205

Isabel, St., 69

Isabel, Queen, 73

Isidore, St., _cited_, 8, 9; death of, 40; writings, 86

Italicus, Silicus, 10

Italy-- Emigration, 175-76; oxen of, 212

James, St.-- Tomb of, 42-43, 52; legend of, 60-63, 178, 223-24, 226-27; ceremonies of the pilgrimage, 66-68; representation in the Pórtico de Gloria, 114; the festival, 212

Janza, Church of, 228

Jehan de Chartres, 53 _note_

Jerome, St., _Chronicles_, 25-26; and Idatius, 28; history, 29; translation of the Scriptures, 32

Jerusalem, the journey to, 24-25

Jesuit College, Monforte, 297-98

Jesuits, the, 22

Jet images of Compostela, 66-68

Jewish burial ground, 295

Jews in Spain, 268, 295

John X., Pope, 65

John of Gaunt, 76

John, St., 28

Joseph Bonaparte, 292

Joyce, _Book of Leinster_, 207

Juan Arias, Archbishop, 66

Juan, Bishop of Seville, 54

Juan de Briena, 69

Juan de Granada, 205

Juan de Lares, 295

Juan II., 69

Juana, Donna, 260

Jubainville, _cited_, 5, 8, 10 _note_

Julius VI., Pope, 284

Junquera de Ambia, 296

Justinian, Emperor, 82

Justino, 10

Kashab hill, Tangier, 118

Keller, Dr. Fernando, 67

Kent, 33

“King of Galicia,” title of, 1

Kirkcudbrightshire, cup-markings of, 274-75

Kirker Museum, Rome, 68

_König Fredrick August_, the, 153

La Virgen de la Esclavitude, 225-26

La Virgen del Cristal, 326

Labrada, 346

Lago, Señor Manuel, of Lugo, 281

Laino, reed hats of, 350

Lambert, Father A., of Lemberg, 38

Lamperez, _quoted_, 92-93, 98, 236

Lancaster, Duke of, 295

Land question in Galicia, 175

Landino, 194

Landoso, 20

Language of Galicia, 50-59, 187-88

Las Burgas, Orense, 288-89

Las Sarmientas, 266

Latin language, the, 53-55

Le Play, _cited_, 181

League of Fishermen, Pontevedra, 255-56

Lemos, Courts of, 297, 298, 302

Leo X., Pope, 75, 267, 283

Leo the Isaurian, 82

Leon, 17, 312

Leon, Sir Cabeza, 205, 357

Leonora, wife of Edward I., 76

Leovigild, 16

Lerez, the, 255, 264-65

Libredon, 61

Ligurians, the, 5

Lima Cathedral, 265

Lima of Peru, the, 21

Lima, Ponte de, 26

_Limace_ or _Lunace_, 207-8

Limia River, the, 13, 20-21

Limia, town of, 25-26

Limicos, city of, 26

Lincoln Cathedral, 98 _note_, 280

Linen trade of Galicia, 345-46

“Little Sisters of Charity,” 167-69

Livestock of Galicia-- Pigs, 210-12; poultry, 212; oxen, 212-14; horses and mules, 214 and _note_, 15; goats and deer, 215; wolves and bears, 215; hares and rabbits, 215-16; owls, bats, muskrats, 216; wild cats, 216-17; birds, 217

Lodoselo, 26, 27

Logo Cathedral, 293

Lope de Vega, 178

Lopez, Bishop Juan, 259 _note_

Lopez de Mendoza, Archbishop, 236

Lorenzo, Bishop of Orense, 289

Los Trangueiros, 255

Louis VII., 69

Louis XI., 102

Louth, county of, 300

Louvre collection of coins, 207

Lucullus, 13

Lugo, 1, 21, 22; wolves of, 215; pheasants, 217; councils, 226, 301; walls, 300; history, 300-1; convent of San Francisco, frescoes, 305; cloisters, 305-6; Roman remains, 306; the Eucharistic Congress, 306; market day, 307; flax-growing, 345; sulphur springs, 354; Roman baths, 353

Lugo Cathedral-- Pórtico, 282; Exposition of the Blessed Sacrament, 301-3; style, 303-4; sarcophagus of Froila, 304; the “Virgin with the Large Eyes,” 304-5

Luna, Rodrigo de, 226

Lusitania, 8, 13, 14

Lydian coins, 206

Macaulay, 276

Macdonald, Dr., 206

Machado, José, 194

Macias, Dr. Marcelo, 21, 25

Macias el Enamorado, 52; poems of, 57-59, 182; birthplace, 230

Macineira, Sr., 7

M’Kinley, Colonel, 268

Madrid-- Athenæum, 5; Archæological Museum, 5, 208, 263; Royal Library, 63; fish for, 165, 166; smoking habit in, 169; invasion of 1706, 170-71; the university, 192, 197; “St. Francis,” by Greco, 297-98; Archives of Natural History, 321

Magellan, Straits of, 265

Magnol Pedro, 343

Maldonado, Cardinal, 103

_Mamoas_ of Galicia, 6-7

Man, Island of, rock-writings, 274

Mandeo river, the, 308, 309

Mandeville, Sir John, 55

_Mareantes_, 255-56

Maria Francisca de Isla y Lozada, 357

Maria of Savoy, Queen, 93

Mariana, 1

Marin, 255, 263-64, 267

Marinho, Pero Annes, 53 _note_

Marino, Bishop Vasco Perez, 289, 290

Mariño, Gonzalo, 227

Markham, Sir Clements, 265

Martial, _cited_, 8

Martin, Anton, fountain of, 93

Martin, Dumiensis, 16

Martin of Tours, St., 294

Martinez de la Meta, Francisco, 346

Martinière, General, 280

Mateo-- The Pórtico de Gloria, 109, 110, 289, 313; representation of himself, 118; his art, 120-21; birthplace, 123-24; pension, 125; the Palace of Gelmirez, 132; Chapel of St. Joseph, 133; style, 228

Matilda, wife of Henry I., 70

Maunday Thursday customs, 249-50

Mauregato, King, 309

Maurus, St., 193

Maxwell on Moore, _quoted_, 158-59

Mazaredo, General, 157 _note_

Medicinal waters, 353-54

Medulio, Monte, 21

Mela, _cited_, 9

Mela, Pomponius, 232

Melida, José Ramon, _cited_, 5 _note_, 6, 7

Mella y Cea, Sr. Ricardo, 172-73

Merida, museum of, 83

Merleanus, Asclepeades, 255

Merlemond, Oliver de, 131-32

Mértola, 83

Metal-work, Roman, 205

Mezonzo, St. Pedro de, 42-43

Mica, use of, 326

Michael Angelo, 91; cupola of, 75

Midacritus, 12

Miñan, spring of, 21

Mindaño, skulls from, 197

Minerals of Galicia, 233; gold, 353; medicinal springs, 353-54; gneiss, etc., 354

Miñez, Airas, 53

Minguez, Diego, 246

Miño, the, 14, 21-22, 220, 234, 276, 278, 279, 286-88, 299, 300, 353

Miro, King, 16, 226

Molina, Francisco, 137, 162-63; his list of pilgrims, 70

Molinos, the, 279

Monasteries of Galicia-- Schools of culture, 24-25; origin of, 41; influence on architecture and learning, 88-90; principal, 317-42

Mondariz, baths of, 355

Mondoñedo, Cathedral of, 70, 307

Money-changers of Santiago, 68-69

Monforte, 293-- Jesuit College, 297-98; convent of Santa Clara, 298-99; poplars of, 345

Monroy, Archbishop, 149

Montalembert, _quoted_, 33, 41, 79, 86

Monte, Arnaldo de, 63-64

Monte Barbanzos, 240, 244

Monte San Gregorio, legends of, 227

Monteil, Ademar de, 44, 45

Montenegro, Domingo A. L., 104

Monterrey, Count of, 353

Monterrey Torre del Homenaje, 296

Montes, Lorenzo, lectures, 193

Montferrand, Pierre de, 53 _note_

Moore, Sir John-- Tomb in Coruña, 154, 156-58; Maxwell, _quoted_, 158-59; Wellington on, 159; “The Burial of Sir John Moore,” 159-60

Moors, the-- Invasion of Galicia, 2, 3, 42; influence on Spanish architecture, 80-81, 83, 86-87; traces of, in Galicia, 83, 88 and _note_, 303, 309, 328; the Mussalman arch, 84-85; relief work of, 87; customs, 118, 170

Morales, Ambrosio, 2-3, 178

Morocco, immigration, 176

_Morriña_, 183, 253

Mos, Marquis de, library, 218

Mosaics, Roman, 205

Moure, Francisco, 293, 298, 304

Mudejar architecture, 80-81

Mule-breeding, 180, 214-15

Muñez, Don Pedro, 192

_Munices_, 208

Muñio, Bishop of Mondoñedo, 63, 149

Murguia, 192, 193

Murillo, “San Antonio,” 270

Muros, port of, 245-46

Muros, Diego de, 136, 196

Muros, Ria de, 17

Muruáis, Filomena Dato, 184

Musical instruments, Gallegan, 294

Musk-rats, 216

Mystery plays, 122

Nairn, rock-drawings, 275

Najera, Victor de, 337

Namatea, story of, 108-9

Napoleon in Spain, 142, 159, 189, 195, 292

Naser, 205

Necho, King, 11

Nerves, 286

Newick, R. C., and “The Burial of Sir John Moore,” 159-60, 160 _note_

Ney, Marshal, 268

Nicholas V., Pope, 73

Nicolas of Pisa, 90, 121

Nilsson, Prof., 274

Nitigisco, Bishop, 301

Noboa, family of, 294

Nocela de Pena, 26-27

Nogueira, village of, 195

Noris, General Henry, 164

Noroña, 268

Norway, emigration, 173 and _note_; trade, 218

Notre Dame, Paris-- Façade, 109, 120; statues, 122; sculptures, 129

Novas, José Martinez, 283

Novgorod, 2

Noya-- Lampreys of, 219; situation, 231-32; the journey from Santiago, 232-34; houses, 235, 239; Santa Maria, 235; Trinitarian convent, 236; San Martin, 236-39; the old wall, 239; prison, 239-40; drives, 240; granite cottages, 241; a sculptured cross, 242; Roman inscriptions, 243-44; Portus Sinus, 244-45; boat-building and trade of, 245; a photograph, 246-47; churches, 248; San Mamed, 248; the leper chapel, 248-49; Holy Week, 249-251; famous men, 251; bull-fights, 252; the journey back to Santiago, 252-53; shipping, 344

Nuestia, Señora del Caneiro, 310

Nuñez, Admiral Mendez, 156, 263

Nuñez, Fernan, of Toledo, 57

Nuño, Juan, 142

Obobriga, 290

Obsidian stone, 302

Odoario, Bishop, 301

Ordenes, 191

“Order of the Knights of Spain,” 52

Orense, 1, 20, 22, 184; pigs and goats of, 211; wolves, 215; rabbits, 216; the line from Tuy, 286-287; the Miño, 287-88; Las Burgas, 288-89; Franciscan monastery, 294-95; church of La Trinadad, 295; drives, 295-96; Orense Grammar School, 325; flax-growing, 345; wines of, 348

Orense Archæological Society, 26

Orense Cathedral-- Swinging censer, 76; portico, 282; the El Paraiso, 289-90; the burial of S. Euphemia, 290-92; tomb of Quevado, 292; another crucifix, 292-93; wood-carving, 293

Orense Museum, 26; Roman remains, 293-94

Origen, heresy of, 32

Orosius, Paul, 8, 30-32

Ortegal, Cape, 217

Osceas, 73

Osera, 319, 324

Osera Cistercian monastery-- Monks of, 234; the Escurial of Galicia, 317-18; the journey to, 318-21; the charter, 321-22; façades, 322; cloisters, 322-23; conventual church, 323; la Virgen de la Leche, 323; sacristy, 323-24

Ouro, the, 279

Oviedo, Dr., 22, 111, 117, 178, 201, 299; and the _Salve Regina_, 44-47

Ox, the, on coins, 206

Oxford University, 90, 170

Padron, 61, 62, 66, 183; lampreys, 219; an emporium of Phœnician trade, 222; _Iria Flavia_, 223; Rocha de Padron, 223; the road from Santiago, 224-30; Pico Sacro, 224-25; Colegiata de Iria, 226; Monte San Gregorio, 227; Convento de San Antonio de Herbon, 227-28; Cæsar’s Bridge, 228; Castro Valute, 228; church of Janza, 228-29; Towers of Augustus, 230; reeds, 350

Padron, Rodriquez de, _trovador_, 227

Paga, Sr. Varela, 355

Painted Stone, 229

Palazuelos, Hernan Sandrez, 260

Palestine, the journey to, from Galicia, 25

Palestine Pilgrims Tract Society, 36 and _note_

Paraino Monte, 247

Paris, library, 63; University, 90

Parker _quoted_, 127, 131

Paul II., Pope, 283

Paul V., Pope, 298

Paulinus of Nola, Bishop, 122

Pausanius, 212

Pecte Burdelo, 309

_Pecten veneris._ _See_ Shell of St. James

Pedro, Constable of Portugal, 57

Pedro de Leon, 142

Pedro de Mezonzo, S., 203; the _Salve Regina_, 42-47

Pedro de Pais, family of, 246

Pedro Don (Madruga), 272

Pedro Nolasco, San, 267

Pelagius, doctrines, 32

Pena de Oro, 246

Peralta, Thomas de, history of, 317

Perez, Abril, 53 _note_

Perez de Reoyo, Narcisa, 184

Pernas, Don Alonso, 336-37

Perpendicular style, 91

Persia, 12

Perth, rock-drawings, 275

Perugia, 190; museum, 68

Peruvian writing, 273

Peter the Cruel, 295, 324

Petrarch, 90

Petri, Petrus, 313-14

Pharmacy, the faculty of, 197-98

Philip II., 69, 201, 315, 353

Philip V., 325

Phœnicians, the-- Phœnician colonies in Galicia, 11; trade, 11-12, 222; and the Tower of Hercules, 162, 163; coins, 206; Phœnician remains, rock-drawings, 274

Picard, Fulbert de, 64

Pico Sacro, 224-25

Pigeon, the, 217

Pilgrimages, early, 33; to Galicia, 42; to Santiago, 60-77; to La Virgen de la Esclavitude, 225-26

Pines, profit from, 344-45

Pinto, Ferñao Mendes, 55

Pisa Cathedral, 96; tower, 145, 147

Pita, Maria, story of, 164

Pitt, 314-15

Pius VII., Pope, 292

Pius VIII., Pope, 141

Placentia, Castro, 272

Placidia, Empress, 29, 36

Plateresco style, 91, 92-93

Pliny, 214, 216, 232, 278

Poets, Gallegan, 49-59, 185-89; Irish, 51 and _note_; Murguia’s list of Gallegan, 53 _note_; Provençal, 188

Poictiers Cathedral, 97

Polo, Marco, 55

Ponte-Pinos, 83-84, 85

Pontevedra, 1, 18; early colonies of the province, 10, 11; Ria de, 17; harbour, 22; rabbits, 216; position, 254-55; history, 255; trade, 255; Santa Maria la Grande, 256; Santo Domingo, 259-60; grammar school, 260-61; the open air archæological museum, 260-62; church of the Franciscan monastery, 262; historical documents of, 263; gardens, 263; other museums, 263; drives--Marin, 263-64; by the Lerez, 264-65; Combarro, 265-67; the Castello de Mos, 268-71; convent of Santa Clara, 265; house of Sarmiento, 265-66; Ria de Pontevedra, 267; San Juan de Poyo, 267; Capilla, de la Peregrina, 268; Jewish quarter, 268; _Castillo de Mos_, 268-73; chapel of La Virgen de la Peneda, 271; rock-drawings, 273-75; wines of, 348

Popiélovo, Nicolas, 227

Pórtico de Gloria-- Sculpture, 107; triple archway, 107-110; figure of Christ, 110-11; the four evangelists, 111; the four-and-twenty elders, 111; the prophets, 112-13; symbolism of the statuary, 113-14; the Tree of Jesse, 114-15; statue of St. James, 115-17; Moses, 117; the pillars, 117-19; Mateo, 118; capitals, 119-20; the statues, 120-23; colouring, 123; capitals, 127-32

Portosino, 244-45

Portugal, language, 50-51, 187; taxes 180; frontier, 284-85

Posé, Enrique Labarta, a “bull fight,” 252

Potato, the, 346

Pottery, Roman, 205

Pousa, 287

Prado, sculptor, 199

Primitivo, San, 325

Prince of the Asturias, title, 1

Priscillian, heresy of, 15, 29, 31, 301

Provence, language of, 189

Prudentius, poet, 39-40

Prudhon, 173

Ptolemy, 11

Puente de Alonso III., 240-42

Puente de San Payo, 268

Puente de Triana, 263

Puente del Burgo, 255

Puente Internacional, 279

Puente Mayor, 288

Puentedeume, 309, 314

Pyrenees, the, 17-18

Quadrado, 84

“Queen Isabella,” style of architecture, 91

Quevado y Quintano, Pedro, 292

Quintana de los Muertos, 104

Raimundo de Monforte, 303

Ramiro, his corn-rent, 98-99

Ravenna, the _Ravenate_, 223

Recared, 16, 84, 87

Recesvinto, King, 84, 332

Redondela, 269, 276

Refuge, churches of, 200

Renaissance, architects of the, 90-93; the Spanish, 92-93

Rennert, 57 and _note_

Repoll, façade, 109

Retablo, seventeenth century, 263

Rey, Luis Cradaso, 251

Rheims Cathedral, 109, 122

Rianjo, 201

_Rias bajas_, the, 17

Ribadavia, 287, 295; vines of, 279, 348

Ribas, Sr. Francisco, 218

Ribera, Pedro, 93

Rios, Amador de los, 54

Rios, Marquis de Monfero, 264

Ripoll, 64

Ripon, monastic church, 89

Roads in Galicia-- The St. James’s road, 60; special, for pilgrims, 62, 65; bad condition of, 177; plan of a Roman road, 294

Robles, Sr., 2 _note_ 1

Rocas, the church, 340-42

_Rocha de Padron_, 223

Rock-drawings, 273-75

Rodil, José Ramon, 195

Rodrigo, Archbishop, 16

Rodriquez, Juan, 230

Rodriquez, Luis, vocabulary, 251

Rodriquez, Ventura, 104

Rojo, Simon, 324

Roman Remains in Galicia-- The Roman arch, 81-82, 85; coins, etc., 205-6, 223; inscriptions, 223, 243-44, 306; castros and tumuli, 232-33; bridge, 233; milestones, 255, 260-61, 296; fortifications, 286; mosaics, 293; stones, 293-94; Roman baths, 300, 331, 353

Romana, Marquis of, 157 _note_

Romance dialect, the, 53-54

Rome, government of Spain, 13; sacking of, 32

Roncevalles, monastery of, 65

Rosendo, San, 325; relics at Celanova, 327-29

Rotberto, 98

Rouen Cathedral, windows, 115

Roulin, M., on the Pórtico de Gloria, 109-10

Rozmilal, Baron de, pilgrimage, 66

Rush-gathering, 350

Russia, poets of, 185; the pigeon, 217

Saavedra, 357

Sahagun, 159

St. John’s, Ephesus, 70

St. Paul’s, London, 91

St. Peter’s, Rome, pilgrims, 70; style, 91; statuary, 123

St. Petronius of Bologna, Cathedral, 96

St. Sophia, Constantinople, 82

St. Vincent de Paul, nuns of, 142

Salas, the, 20

Salisbury Cathedral, 96, 284

Sallust, 9

Salvatierra, 22, 286

_Salve Regina_, the, 43; authorship, 42-47

Sampedro, Señor Casto, 257, 258, 262, 266 _note_, 268

San Anton, fort of, 171

San Antonio de Herbon, Convento de, 227

San Bartolomé, 261

San Bartolomé Cathedral, Tuy, 280-81

San Benito, church of, Santiago, 199

San Clement, Rome, plaited designs, 128

San Cosmo, 251

San Esteban, monastery of, ruins, 22, 333, 335-36, 338-39; sarcophagi, 336-37; cloisters, 337; conventual church, 337-38; position, 339

San Felix de Solovio, Santiago, 200

San Francisco, Betanzos, 312

San Francisco, Lugo, 305, 313

San Francisco monastery, Santiago, 209 _note_

San Juan de Baños, Palencia, 84, 331-332

San Juan de Poyo, 265, 267

San Justo de los Tojosutos, 234

San Justo River, 248

San Lorenzo, Santiago, 209 _note_

San Marco, Leon, 65

San Mamed, 248

San Martin de Nieble, 83

San Martin, hermitage, 267

San Martin, Mondoñedo, 307

San Martin, Noya, 236-39

San Martin, Pinario, 195, 200, 209 _note_

San Martin, Tiobre, 310

San Miguel de Celanova, 330

San Payo, convent of, 104, 203-4

San Pedro de Rocas, 340-42

San Pedro del Mezquita, church of, 296

San Roman, Toledo, 81

San Roman de Hornija (Valladolid) 84

San Rosendo, family of, 294

San Sebastian del Pico Sacro, 225

San Sernin of Toulouse, comparison with Santiago, 95-97, 132

San Simon, Hospital of, 277

San Vincente del Pino, Monforte, 297

Sanchez, 132, 135, 192-93, 195

Sandez, Fernandez, 43

Santa Clara, convent, 205, 265

Santa Clara, Monforte, 298-99

Santa Comba de Bande, 84, 329-33

Santa Cruz monastery, Coimbra, 291

Santa Eulalia, 226 _note_

Santa Maria a Nova, 235

Santa Maria de Azogue, Betanzos, 312, 313

Santa Maria de Cambre, 313-14

Santa Maria de Escos, 340

Santa Maria de Iria, 226

Santa Maria de Sar. _See_ Sar, Colegiata de

Santa Maria del Campo, 246

Santa Maria del Puy, church, 44

Santa Maria la Grande, Pontevedra, 256, 263, 313

Santa Maria Salomé, Santiago, 199-200

Santa Susana, Santiago, 62, 199

Santiago-- Moorish invasion, 42-43; pilgrims to, 60-77; jet-workers of, 66-68; money-changers of, 68-69; capture by John of Gaunt, 76; school of artists, 124; birthplace of Rosalia Castro, 184; a walled city, 190; position and climate, 190-91, 192; hospitality of, 191; absence of fires, 191; chocolate of, 191; medical college of Fonseca, 193; convents and churches, 198-202; a students’ riot, 198; the Alameda, 199; Colegio de San Gerónimo, 200; Plaza de Alonso XII., 200, 201; the Consistorio, 200; fountains, 202; convents for women, 203-5; San Payo, 203-4; Santa Clara, 205; Archæological Museums, 205; Hospital de San Roque, 205; private collections, 205-6; the pig market, 210-12

Santiago Cathedral-- Story of the gates, 42-43; music, 53; the giant censer, 72-75; style of architecture, 62-63, 88, 93; beds for the pilgrims, 72; Candlemas 1907, 74-75; the original church, 94-95; compared with St. Sernin, 95-97; fire 1170, 98; the two master builders, 98; cupola, 99; naves, 99; the seven gates, 99-100; the Puerta de las Platerias, 100-2; windows, 101; sculpture and statuary, 101-2, 108; façades, 102-5; bells, 102, 103; clock-tower, 102-3; the _Capilla Mayor_, 103; statues, 103-4; entrances, 103-4; façade of the Azabacheria, 104-5; the _Pórtico de Gloria_, 105; _see also that title_; staircases, 105; the Obradoira, 105-6; cloisters, 106; sculptured capitals, 126; foliage, 127-28; galleries, 128; chapel of St. Joseph, 132; capitals of, 133-35; the palace of Gelmirez, 134-35

Santiago, church of, Betanzos, 311-12

Santiago, church of, Ribadavia, 287

Santiago Hospital. _See_ Hospital Real.

Santiago University-- Library, 70; faculties of Law and Medicine, 192-93; the medical college, 193; architecture, 193-94; library, 194-95; patriots of, 195; portraits of, 195-96; reading-room, 196; Natural History Museum, 196-97; management, 197; faculty of Pharmacy, 197-98

Santillana, Marquis of, letter _quoted_, 50

Santo Domingo, Coruña, 164

Santo Domingo, Lugo, 306

Santo Domingo, Padron, 187

Santo Domingo, Pontevedra, 259-60, 282

Santo Domingo, Ribadavia, 287, 305

Santo Domingo, Santiago, 209 _note_

Santo Domingo, Tuy, 281-82

Sar, Colegiata de-- Architectural peculiarity, 145-49, 192; foundation, 149; tomb of Archbishop Bernard, 149-50; relics, 150; other tombs, 150; the hospital, 150-51

Sar River, 22, 146, 148, 222, 227

Saragossa, St., Virgen del Pilar, 304-5

Sardine trade, the, 164-66, 217-18, 232

Sarmiento, Martin Garcia, 216, 357

Sarmiento, Pedro de Gamboa, 265-66

Sarria, 308

Scandinavia, rock-drawings, 274

Scilly Islands, the, indentification, 11

Scotland, “cup and ball” drawings, 273

Scott, Sir Gilbert, 131

Segobriga, 83

Sejalvo, 291

Seoane, _cited_, 214, 216

Sephronius, Bishop, 83

Sequin, Bishop, 291

Sergius I., censer of, 75-76

Sevelo, Sr. Barros, 247

Severus, Catilus, 278

Severus, Sulpicius, 223

Seville-- Cathedral library, 73; tobacco and cigar factories, 169-70; emigration from, 177

Shell of St. James, the, 66-67, 71, 102, 220, 257

Shobdon, church of, 131

Sicily, 13

Sil River, the, 21, 208, 234-35, 353

Silvestre, Gregorio, 57

Silvia of Acquitaine, 36

Sinai, Mount, 35, 37

Sirmondo, Jesuit, 30

Sivelo, Barros, 2 _note_ 1, 4 and _note_, 7, 10

Slav pilgrims to Santiago, 7

Sobrado, monastery of, 77, 220

Socialism, in Galicia and Andalusia, 175, 184

Sodom, 37

Solesme, 267

Sotomayor, Diego de, tomb, 270

Sotomayor, Payo Gomez de, 260

Sotomayor, Suero Gomez de, 260

Sotomayor family, 271-72, 281; house in Pontevedra, 268; genealogical tree, 271

Soult, Marshal, 158

South Kensington, cast of the Pórtico de Gloria, 123

Southey, at Redondela, 276

Spain-- Origin of Spanish language, 49; Spanish characteristics, 153; emigration, 175, 176; natural laziness, 176-77; government of, 177; education, 177-78; universities of, 192-193; pigs of, 212; the Spanish onion, 349; architecture. _See_ under Architecture

Statuary of the Middle Ages, harmony of, 121 and _note_; influence of the drama on, 122; absence of, in Greek churches, 122

Stoke, Miss, _quoted_, 128

Stonehenge, 7

Strabo, _cited_, 6, 10

Street, 85, 95 _note_, 96 _note_, 123, 132

Sueves, the, 15-16, 28 and _note_ 29, 30, 49, 261, 301

Susana, Santa, 199

Swanston, Paul, 160

Sweden, 216

Tabor, Mount, 35

Tambre river, 22, 143, 231, 232, 240, 244

Tamerlane, court of, 260

Taxation in Gaul, 173, 179, 266-67

Telmo, San, 284

Templars, the, 265, 278, 296

Teodomiro, 226, 294

Teodomirus, Bishop, 62

Teresa, Doña, 279-80

Teruiel, 81

Teucer, 255

Theobald IV., 52

Theodoricus, 15, 16

Theodosius, Emperor, 4, 30

Theophilus, S., 28

Ticknor, George, 50

Tiobre, 310

Tobacco factories, Spanish, 169-70, 345

Toja, mineral springs, 354-55

Tojosutos, cloisters of, 305

Toledo, 1, 86; cathedral, 93

Tomas, Irish bishop, 202

Tombstones, 82-83

Tomé, Narciso, 93

Tomeza River, 255

Torquato, San, 327, 328, 330

Torquemada, Bishop, 284

_Torques_ of gold, 206-9, 233

Torremuzquiez, Counts of, 325

Toulouse Cathedral, sculptures, 128

Toulouse Museum, 134, 208

Tower of Hercules, Coruña, 154, 161-63

Trajan, Emperor, 163, 219

Tramunda, Santa, sarcophagus, 267

Trava, the, 231, 239

Tree of Jesse in sculpture, 114-15

Trevino, Francisco, tomb, 69

Trigo, Bartolamé, 256

Troncoso, springs, 355

Trovadores of Galicia, 52-59

Tumbo, island of, 267

Tumuli, 6-7

Turkestan, wardrobes in, 241

Turrafo, the, 22

Tuy, 1, 10, 22; wolves of, 215; lampreys, 219; railways, 279; wrestling matches, 279; history, 279-80; province, 280; San Bartolomé, 280-81; Santo Domingo, 281-82; drives, 284-85

Tuy Cathedral, 278, 280; exterior portico, 282-83; built for defence, 283, 286; parchments, 283-84; rectangular apse, 284; cloister, 284

Tyrol, the Austrian, 264, 333

Uceda, Captain, 162

Ulla River, the, 222, 225, 227, 228, 299, 345

United States, trade with Britain, 180

Urraca, Queen, 116, 279-80, 349

Ursula, S., 299

Usury in Gaul, 181

Valença, fortress of, 279, 280, 284, 285

Valencia, 346

Valerius, Abbot, 33-35, 37, 38

Valladares, Avelina, 184

Valparaiso, 175

Valute, Castro, 228

Vandals, 15, 29

Varela family, 240

Varela, Prof., 197

Valmar, Marquis of, 53

Varro, Marcus, 4

Vatican Library, 52, 55, 244

Vazquez, Arturo, 26

Velazquez, 11

Velazquez, Alonso, 202

Velez, Archbishop, 103

Venice, Doge’s palace, 148

Venta de Baños, 84

Verdugo, the, 268

Vespasian, 223

Vézelay, church of, 97; façade, 109; the arcades, 128

Vianna de Castello, 20

Vieira. _See_ Shell of St. James

Vienna Museum, 207

Vigo-- Harbour of, 11, 22, 153, 154, 318; oysters, 219; the road to, 276-77; commercial position, 277; houses, 278; Colegiata de Santa Maria, 278; English attack on, 348

Vigo, Ria de, 17, 276, 277, 278

Villagarcia, 149, 205, 245, 254

Villavieja, 277

Vine cultivation, 180, 224, 264, 268

Violante, Queen, 205

Viollet le Duc, 78 _note_, 129-30

Virgen de los Ojos, 304

Virgen del Pilar, 304

Visigoths, 83, 84; churches of the, 86-87

Wales, 8

Wallingford, 33

Walter, minstrel, 53 _note_

Water supply of Santiago, 202

Wellington, Duke of, on Moore, 159; and the Gallegans, 356

Westminster Abbey, capitals, 127; memorial of Sir John Moore, 157

White Tower, London, 98 _note_; capitals, 127

Wilfrid, St., 88

William X., 69

William de Rubruquis, 69-70

Winchester, 284; capitals, 126-27; transept, 135

Witiza, King, 1, 279, 295

Wolfe, Rev. Charles, 159

Woman in Galicia, 166, 178, 202, 234; the women labourers, 249, 269, 355

Woodwork, stalactite, 194

Writings. _See_ Inscriptions

_Xeito_, the, 218

Yanez de Noboa, Bishop, 294, 295

Yepes, 45

York Cathedral, 304

Zanelo, 65

Zepedano, 73, 149

_Printed by_ MORRISON & GIBB LIMITED, _Edinburgh_

FOOTNOTES:

[1] Barros Sivelo tells us that his friend Sr. Robles collected data for a history of Galicia for twenty-seven years, but died before he had begun to write it.

[2] In the reign of Philip II.

[3] Theophilo Braga.

[4] Barros Sivelo, _Antiquedades di Galicia_, 1875.

[5] _The Bible in Spain_, ch. xxvii.

[6] It is believed that Spain was once united to the north African coast, and it is certain that in antiquity the Straits of Gibraltar were much narrower than they are now.

[7] See _Cronicon del Obispo Idacio_, ed. by Dr. Marcelo Macias, 2nd ed., 1906.

[8] See chapter on “The Caucasus” in my _Russia_.

[9] “Maravillosa es hallar en el Asia y en la España pueblos de nombres identicos, iberos albanios, galecios, y calibes” (Aguiar).

[10] See Lecture on “Arte Primitivo en España,” by D. José Ramon Melida in the Athenæum of Madrid, 1902.

[11] See description of these in my _Russia_.

[12] See article by Señor Melida, “La Ceremica prehistorica de la Peninsula iberica,” in _Nuestro Tiempo_, June 1901.

[13] Those which owe their origin to the Romans appear to have been built to hold from 100 to 10,000 men.

[14] _Piedras ossilantes._

[15] H. d’Arbois de Jubainville. See his _Les Celts depuis les temps les plus anciens_. Paris, 1904.

[16] _España Sagrada_, vol. xv.

[17] “Gallia est omnis divisa in partes tres, quarum unam incolunt Belgae, aliam Aquitarie, tertiam qui ipsorum lingua Celtae, nostra Galli apellantur. Hi omnes lingua, institutes legibus inter se differunt” (_De B. G._ i. 1).

[18] See my _Russia_. See also Plato’s theory of Atlantida.

[19] No one now disputes the fact that the Celts are an Indo-European race. Jubainville says of them, “On peut comparer l’empire celtique à l’empire romain. Au sud il ne s’étendit pas autant; il ne comprit ni toute l’Espagne, ni toute l’Italie, ni toute la péninsule des Balkans, mais plus au nord il contenait une grande partie de l’empire d’Allemagne, une portion de l’empire d’Autriche et le région septentrionale de la grande Britagne, qui échappèrent toujours à la domination romaine, enfin, il comprenait l’Irelande où jamais les legions romains n’ont pénétré.” The same writer adds, “Le lieu d’origine des langues celtiques parâit avoir été un très petit pays, situé sur les bords du Rhin, du Main et du Danube, la où se trouvent aujourd’hui la Hesse-Darmstadt, le grand duché di Basle, de Wurtemburg, et la Bavière septentrionale.” Farther on he affirms that “la patrie des Cimbris était la Schléswig-Holstein et non la Crimeé” (because Tacitus mentions a people of that name as dwelling in Schleswig-Holstein in his day).

[20] See Garcia de la Riega, _Galicia Antigua_, 1904.

[21] Joseph Cornide, _Las Cassiterides_, 1790.

[22] _Les Celtes_, Paris, 1904.

[23] See Barros Sivelo. Hamilcar intended to make Spain his base of operations for the invasion of Italy. See Stone’s notes to Livy.

[24] See Livy, lib. 53, or rather its Table of Contents, for the book is lost.

[25] See Tables of the Capitoline Triumphes and other ancient documents.

[26] See Suetonius, and Plutarch, who wrote in his _Life of Julius Cæsar_: “We are told that when he was in Spain he bestowed some leisure hours in reading part of the history of Alexander, and was so much affected with it that he sat pensive a long time, and at last burst out into tears. As his friends were wondering what might be the reason, he said, ‘Do you think I have not sufficient cause for concern when Alexander at my age reigned over so many conquered countries, and I have not one glorious achievement to boast?’ From this principle it was that immediately upon his arrival in Spain he applied to business with great diligence, and, having added ten new cohorts to the twenty he received, then he marched against the Callaecians (Galicians) and Lusitanians, defeated them, and penetrated to the ocean, reducing nations by the way that had not felt the yoke.”

[27] I have been obliged to omit my chapter on Priscillian for want of space.

[28] Called by Pliny and Pomponius Mela, “the Celtic promontory.”

[29] See Chapter on Tuy.

[30] Ford.

[31] _Ibid._

[32] Valenzuela.

[33] Lib. 1. v. 235.

[34] See Dr. Marcelo Macias, _Civitas Limicorum_, 1904.

[35] _Loc. cit._

[36] _De Bell. Hisp._

[37] _España Sagrada_, vol. xv.

[38] “La Gallega,” Nave Capitaina de Colon, by C. Garsia de la Riega, 1897.

[39] Lopez Ferreiro, _El Priscilianismo_, 1878.

[40] Laborde, after dividing the history of Spain into four great epochs, says, “Dans la première époque” (under the Carthaginians and the Romans) “les Espagnols font partie du grand système qui gouvernait le monde, mais plutot alliés que sujets des Romains, se civilisant comme eux et non par eux, ils les égalèrent dans presque toutes les connaissances utiles, et furent a la fois le soutien et la richesse de leur empire.”

[41] Comision de Monumentos.

[42] Dr. Macias points out that the change of _i_ into _e_ in the name of the city was probably governed by some law of euphony according to which not only was the final long _i_ changed into long _e_ but also the short _i_ in the middle of the word to the short _e_, as in _sinu_, _sino_, _pilo_, _pele_, _minus_, _menos_.

[43] The name Sueve, Suevi (Anglo-Saxon, _Swaefas_; Modern German, _Schwabe_), was a generic appellation, like that of the body of distinct tribes who composed the Allemannic confederacy; the name of Suevi was frequently interchanged with that of Allemanni by ancient writers. See Hampson’s Essay on King Alfred’s “Orosius.” The Sueves had come to Galicia from the territory stretching between the Rhine and the Elbe.

[44] Arian professed that the Son was not equal or co-substantial with the Father. See Gibbon, vol. iv. ch. xxxvii.

[45] Quoted by Dr. Macias from _Hist. de los Heterod. Espanoles_, vol. i. p. 123.

[46] Gibbon quotes many lines from Idatius, and calls him Spain’s most eloquent historian.

[47] Ordination was not allowed before the age of twenty-five.

[48] The Sueves entered Spain in 411 and Galicia in 411. See _Esp. Sagrada_, vol. iv.

[49] See Bosworth and Florez.

[50] King Alfred’s _Orosius_, bk. v. ch. xii.

[51] About five years before the birth of Idatius.

[52] “Two great interests then moved the hearts of Christians, led them from their homes, and threw them into the midst of the difficulties, perils, and tediousness, now incomprehensible, of a journey to the East. They would kiss the footsteps of the Lord Jesus upon the very soil where He encountered life and death for our salvation; they would also survey and see with their own eyes those deserts, caverns, and rocks where still lived the men who seemed to reach nearest to Christ by their supernatural austerity, and their brave obedience to the most difficult precepts of the Saviour” (Montalembert).

[53] “The learned librarian of a lay-brotherhood established in that place.” See Preface to Bernard’s translation.

[54] Published by the Imperial Academy of Vienna, in vol. xxxix. of _Corpus Sculptorum Ecclesiasticorum Laborum_.

[55] Since published separately, with a facsimile of the opening page of the manuscript. Translated by J. H. Bernard, B.D., Palestine Pilgrims Text Society.

[56] See Bernard’s translation.

[57] Férotin.

[58] Bernard said in his preface: “I have been much struck by the accuracy of St. Silvia’s (Etheria’s) topographical descriptions; they are evidently those of a person who had seen the places described.” Of the document itself he wrote: “The manuscript is said to be written in an eleventh-century hand, and Gamurrini considers it tolerably certain that it was the work of a monk at Monte Casino.”

[59] See Valerius’s _Life of St. Fructuosus_, quoted by Montalembert. St. Isidore, according to Cuvier, was the first Christian who arranged for Christians the knowledge of antiquity; so we may call him the father of Ecclesiastical Archæology.

[60] Montalembert translated these and other stories about this saint from the Latin of Zepes. See his own note.

[61] Capilla parroquial de San Fructuoso.

[62] See Lopez Ferreiro, _Hist. de la S. Iglesia de Santiago_, vol. ii., 1899, and _España Sagrada_, vol. xxxiv. The Arab historians also tell this story.

[63] “Cette œuvre au texte si court et au chant si long; à l’écouter, à la lire avec recueillement cette magnifique exoration paraissait se décomposer en son ensemble, répresenter trois états différents d’âme, signifier la triple phase de l’humanité, pendant sa jeunesse, sa maturité et son déclin; elle était en un mot, l’essentiel resumé de la prière à tous les âges.” See Huysman’s _En Route_, where Durtal’s conversion is made to take place as he listens to the _Salve Regina_.

[64] _España Sagrada_, xix.

[65] Read before the Sixth Catholic Congress at Santiago, July 1902.

[66] St. Gregory the Great, who died about 604, was the first monk who became a pope. “It was he,” says Montalembert, “who inaugurated the Middle Ages, modern society, and Christian civilization. He was the first to collect the ancient melodies of the Church, in order to subject them to the rules of harmony, and to arrange them according to the requirements of Divine worship, ... he established at Rome the celebrated school of religious music, to which Gaul, Germany, England, all the Christian nations came in turn.”

[67] See Borrow’s _Bible in Spain_, ch. xxviii.

[68] _Historia de la Santa Iglesia de Santiago_, vol. ii.

[69] See Nos. 55, 262, 313.

[70] See Fita, Braga, and Monaci.

[71] It appeared first in _El Eco de Galicia_, and then, amplified, in the _Boletin de la Accademia Galliga de la Coruña_, May 1906.

[72] The language of Galicia has been called _Madre de la Portuguesa_ (“Mother of Portuguese”) by Amador de los Rios and by Pedro José Pedal. See _La Poesía Gallega_, by the Marquis de Figueroa, 1829.

[73] See work on Alfonso _el Sabio_, by the Marquis de Valmar, i. 2nd ed., 1897.

[74] The Irish poets were much given to contests of wit, usually carried on in the following way: When two of them met, one repeated the first half of a very short poem, which was a challenge to the other to repeat it. Sometimes it was a quotation from some obscure, half-forgotten old poem, sometimes an effusion composed on the spot, in which case the second poet was expected to give, extemporaneously, a second half of the same length, prosody and rhyme, and making continuous sense.... In Ireland it was believed that a true poet never failed to respond correctly.... So generally cultivated, and so universally admired was this talent for impromptu reply, that in the ecclesiastical legends some of the Irish saints are credited with as much proficiency as the best of the poets. See P. W. Joyce, _A Social History of Ancient Ireland_, 1903.

[75] See Marquis de Figueroa, _De la Poesía Gallega_.

[76] Murguia gives the names of the following Gallegan poets: Abril Perez, Airas Miñez, Bernal de Boneval, Juan Ayras, Pay de Cana, and Pero Annes Marinho. The same writer, quoting Michel, says, “In 1361, Messire Jehan de Chartres and Pierre de Montferrand took three _juglares_ with them on a pilgrimage to Santiago. Walter, an English minstrel, also visited Santiago about that time.

[77] Aldrede (quoted by Valmar) said, “Many of the words thought to have been borrowed from the Moors by Spain are really old Latin words.” See his _Del origine y princípio de la lengua Castellana_, vol. iii. cap. xv.

[78] See _España Sagrada_, vol. ix.

[79] “Los bases essenciales de la versificacion, de las lenguas románicas son, el numero de silabas, el acento dominante del verso (cesura) y al terminar, del verso, la homofonia de las silabas acentuadas al final de los versos (asonancia o’ rima). No entre, en esta verseficacion la cantidad prosodica de los griegos y de los romanos.” See also Friedrich Diez, _Die Poesie der Troubadours_.

[80] _Paradiso_, Canto xix. v. 124.

[81] See study by Hugo Albert Rennert, Ph.D., Prof. Univ. Pennsylvania.

[82] The works of Silvestre are very rare. 1st ed. published in Seville, 2nd ed. Granada, 1597. (Another edition mentioned by Ticknor, Granada, 1588.)

[83] See his “Nobleza de Andalusia,” Seville, 1588.

[84] “El mas glorioso entre los sepulcros de los Santos de todas las naciones de la tierra,” quoted by Sanchez.

[85] Lopez Ferreiro, _Lecciones de Arqueologia_, quoted by Villa-Amil.

[86] See his _Mobilario Liturgico_, 1907.

[87] Quoted by Fernandez Sanchez.

[88] See article in Smith’s _Classical Dict._; also Walter Lowrie’s _Christian Art and Archæology_, 1901. Lowrie thinks that the use of incense originated in funeral processions. “Constantine,” he says, “presented to St. Peter’s a censer (_thumiamaterium_) of purest gold, adorned on all sides with gems, to the number of sixty, and weighing fifteen pounds.”

[89] Ford wrote: “In the Spanish theatres no neutralising incense is used as is done by the wise clergy in their churches. If the atmosphere (of the theatres) were analysed by Faraday, it would be found to contain equal portions of stale cigar smoke and fresh garlic fume.”

[90] See _Mobilario Liturgico_, p. 176.

[91] These so-called clarions or clarionets (or _chirimias_, as they are locally called) are not really clarionets, they are like flutes, sounded by the help of a reed fixed to the mouthpiece. I have been assured that they are the only two of their kind in existence.

[92] See his _El Pontificade Gallego_, 1907.

[93] See Richard Ford, _A Handbook for Travellers_, London, 1855.

[94] Purchase.

[95] See _Historia de la Santa Iglesia de Santiago_, vol. iv. 1901.

[96] As Lamperez has remarked, the return to Gothic and mediæval architecture witnessed in France and other countries in the nineteenth century may be distinctly traced to the interest aroused first by Caumont, and later by Viollet-le-Duc in the architecture of the Middle Ages.

[97] See Montalembert on this subject.

[98] “À la tendencie espiritualista y sutilisima de la arquitectura de la Edad Media, con sus complicados problemas de equilibrio, suceden los elementos greco-romanos y el dominio de la masa. El aspecto expressivo la emoción religiosa que producen los monumentos del Renacimiento no es por las formas clásicas, sino à pesar de ellas, puesto que la desposicion de los templos es la caracteristica cristeana, y solo la vestidura espagana. Socialmente, al colectivismo artistico, succede el arts personal.” See article by Lamperez in _Escuela de Estudios superiores_, Madrid, 1904.

[99] Leo V. was an Iconoclast, and for this he was assassinated while attending matins in his chapel. The great struggle against the Iconoclasts was terminated during the regency of Theodora, mother of Michael III. (the Drunkard), who came to the throne in 842. See George Finlay, _History of the Byzantine Empire_.

[100] “Byzantine art is the Greek spirit working in Asiatic elements.” Choisy, quoted by Lethaby and Swainson in _Sancta Sophia_.

[101] See M. Gomez-Morreno, _Excursion à traves del arco de herredura_, Madrid, 1906.

[102] There are two in the Museum at Leon.

[103] Gomez-Morreno.

[104] An illustration of this was published in _Monumentos Arquitectonio de España_.

[105] See Juan Agapite y Rivilla, _La Basilica Visigoda de San Juan Batista_ (Palentia):

“la única construccion visigoda que nos queda.”

[106] Gomez-Morreno writes: “Sus arcos todos, asi ... reproducen fielmente la traza de los primitivos cordobeses, con adornada mocheta ó borcelón por impostas y despiezo, convergente al centro de la curva” (Saladin). “La mosquee de Sidi Okba à Kairuan. Al mismo tiemps con Abderrahmen II. (821-852) el emirato cordobes adquiria fuerza politica abriéndose al Oriente: un arte nuevo se produjo à base de le indigena, pero engalanado con arreos bizantinos, y simultaneamente principió à fijarse al tipo musulman de nuestro arco. Ya hemos visto cómo caracterisa su fase anterior el no traspasar la semicircumferencia en más de un tercio del radio, y con frecuencia en cantidad poco sensible, á excepcion de los estelas, donde el trazado de la curva se hacía á capricho. Desde Abderrahmen II. impera otro orden invariable: la prolongacion es de una mitad del radio, ó sea con flecha de tres cuartos del diámetro, en forma que el arco resulta construido sobre un exágono: la irradiación del despiezo de sus dovelas verifícase desde el centro dela linia de arranque; muchas veces los hombros del arco van descaradamente enjarjados: enrasen con el vuelo de los impostas, ellegando más tarde á rebasarlas algo, y ellas perfilan una mocheta ó bien la gallarda nacela que se erigió moldura única. Otro nuevo elemento complementario y en lo sucesivo unseparable casi de nuestro arco, es el alfiz ó recuadro, de origen quiza’ pérsa.”

[107] Santa Comba de Bande and San Pedro de Rocas.

[108] See George E. Street, F.S.A., _Some Account of Gothic Architecture in Spain_, 1865.

[109] See J. Amador de los Rios, _El Arte Latino-Byzantine_, 1861.

[110] See Tarig-ben-Zeyad and Mirza-ben-Nosayar, both quoted by Amador de los Rios.

[111] Ataulf was the founder of the Visigoth kingdom in Spain, just as Alaric was the founder of the Ostragoth kingdom in Italy.

[112] “Los objetos artisticos que constituyen el Tesoro de Guerrazar, revelan claramente la existencia de una arte en que se asocian y asemelan los elementos constitutivos del arte _romano_, ya alterado por la poderosa influencia de la Iglesia latina y del arte bizantino, tal como aparece en la primera edad de su desarollo” (_op. cit._). Many of these are now in the Cluny Museum.

[113] “La única senda possible para realizar la obra del Renacimiento” (_op. cit._).

[114] See _Historia de la Arquitectura Christiana_, 1904.

[115] In Galicia there are practically no traces of the Moors, except an Arabic inscription on a stone in a church at Betauzos, the name of a street there. The carved woodwork of the Fonseca ceiling, and that at Monforte, are of more recent date, and the work of Spaniards.

[116] “Then nearly all the bishops’ seats, the churches, the monasteries of saints, and even the oratories in the villages, were changed by the faithful for better ones” (_op. cit._). Radulphus Glaber (who died 1045), quoted by Parker in _Gothic Architecture_.

[117] See F. Gregorovius, _The City of Rome in the Middle Ages_.

[118] Even in Rome there had been till then no Burgher class sufficiently strong to build a sure foundation for a secular constitution (_op. cit._).

[119] See Lamperez, _Historia de la Arquitectura Cristiana_.

[120] “Es la época de apogeo del arte cristiano y de la idealizacion de la materia hasta convertirla en sutilisima expresion del pensamiento religioso” (_op. cit._).

[121] “Ce ne sont pas des soldats qui rapportent un art dans le baggage” (Viollet-le-Duc).

[122] See Edward Preissig, Ph.D., _Notes on the History and Political Institutions of the Old World_, 1906.

[123] See Lamperez, _op. cit._

[124] Lamperez. See also Buckart, Geismuller, and Munty, three great authorities quoted by Lamperez.

[125] See Arturo Vazques Nuñez, _La Arquitectura Cristiana en la provincia de Orense_, 1894.

[126] The first cathedral built over the apostle’s body was finished in 874, and consecrated on May 17th, 899.

[127] Until the fifteenth century the dates given in Spanish inscriptions were calculated from the “Spanish era,” which began thirty-eight years before the Christian era. To bring a date to our own reckoning we must therefore subtract thirty-eight.

[128] See _Monografía de la Catedral de Santiago_, by Fernandez Casanova, 1902, and _Historia de la S.A.M. Iglesia de Santiago_, vol. iii., by Lopez Ferreiro.

[129] Street wrote of the cathedral of Santiago: “This cathedral is of singular interest, not only on account of its unusual completeness and the general unity of style which marks it, but still more because it is both in plan and design a very curiously exact repetition of the church of St. Sernin at Toulouse. But S. Sernin _is earlier in date by several years_, having been commenced by S. Raymond in 1060 A.D. and consecrated by Pope Urban II. in 1096” (_Gothic Architecture in Spain_, 1865). But Lopez Ferreiro writes forty years later that, after comparing the two cathedrals with the minutest care, he has found sufficient divergence in their detail to indicate a different style, a different school, and a different inspiration.

[130] The barrel vault (roof shaped like half a barrel) is peculiar to the architecture of the eleventh century. English architects call this “Earliest Norman.”

[131] Street was the first to draw attention to these buttresses. He wrote in 1866, “The buttresses which appear on the ground-plan are all connected by arches thrown from one to the other, so that the eaves of the roof project in front of their outside face. There is consequently an enormous thickness of wall to resist the weight and thrust of the continuous vault of the triforium, these arches between the buttresses having been contrived in order to render the whole wall as rigid and uniform as possible.”

[132] See _Hist. Compost._

[133] See Chapter IX.

[134] It must be remembered that the Cathedral of Santiago stood completed in all its glory more than a hundred years before the foundations of Cologne Cathedral were laid. Amiens Cathedral was not begun till 1220, and not completed until 1288. All the architecture in England dating from the period in which Santiago Cathedral was completed is Early Norman. The chapel in the White Tower, London (1081), is considered to be one of the best and most perfect examples of this period. Part of the west front of Lincoln was built by the bishop of Remi (of Reims) between the years 1085 and 1092. Canterbury Cathedral was not finished till 1184.

[135] Codex of Calixtus II. bk. v.

[136] In ch. ix. of bk. iv. of the Codex of Calixtus II. we read: “Tiene esta Iglesia” (that of Santiago) “tres portadas principales, y siete pequeñas. De las primeras la una mira al Occidente, la otra al Mediodia, y la tercera al Septentrion. Cada una de estas portadas tiene dos entradas, y cada entrada dos puertas.” See chapter on “La Portada de las Platerias,” in Ferreiro’s _El Pórtico de Gloria_.

[137] See Lopez Ferreiro, _op. cit._

[138] “Un compendio en piedra de la divina revelacion.”

[139] Lopez Ferreiro, _op. cit._

[140] See Fernandez Sanchez, who gives it in full.

[141] See Chapter VI. for further explanation of this word.

[142] “La obra mas bella y suntuosa, verdaderamente magnifica, y tan monumental que al contemplarlæ no se perciben los detalles, es la fachada de la Catedral de Santiago construeda en 1737 por Casas y Novos” (Lamperez).

[143] The Spanish word _portico_ is derived from the Latin _porticus_, French _porche_, English _porch_. Roulin points out that this word is one of the thousand examples of Spain having altered the Latin language less than France has done.

[144] Lopez Ferreiro, in his _El Pórtico de Gloria_, was the first modern writer to interpret its meaning thus. For a long time previously it was taken erroneously to represent the Last Judgment.

[145] See A. N. Didron, _Christian Iconography_, translated by E. J. Millington, compiled by M. Stokes, 1886.

[146] “Now on a certain day it came to pass that as she sat in the church and read, a poor man drew nigh to pray, and beholding a woman robed in black raiment and already stricken in years, he took her for one of the needy, and drawing forth a cake of bread, he placed it on her lap and went away. But she, despising not the gift of the poor man, who had not recognised her rank, accepted the bread and thanked him; and she placed it before her on the table, and every day she used it for the prayer of benediction until no more of it remained.” See _op. cit._

[147] See _Speculum humanae Salvationis_, etc. Didron found a copy of the Byzantine Guide to Painters in a monastery at Esphigmenon which, he thought, dated from the fifteenth century.

[148] See Lamperez.

[149] _Revue de l’Art Chrétien_, 1895.

[150] Lopez Ferreiro.

[151] Lopez Ferreiro here quotes Viollet le Duc: “To give the hero proportions superior to those which you give to the other persons engaged in the combat is the most effectual way of impressing the spectator with the greatness of the deed.”

[152] See Villa-Amil.

[153] Villa-Amil, taking the tore for the barrier of purgatory, concluded that the foliage behind it must be meant to represent flames!

[154] “Le Jugement dernier de Saint Jacques de Compostella se distingue enfin par des éléments iconographiques très specieux, très interessants: et pourtant nous le répétons, l’iconographie de la partie centrale de cette belle composition se rapproche sensibliment des representations correspondantes qui appartiennent aux siècles suivants: elle précède, elle annonce, elle laisse, entrevoir les fameux jugements de la période gothique....” A. A. Roulin (_op. cit._).

[155] _Baculo en tau._

[156] Fernandez Sanchez says this column is of _agate_.

[157] “At Llanrhaidr yn Kenmerch, Denbighshire, there is an example in stained glass, with the date 1533.... It was likewise wrought into a branched candlestick, thence called a Jesse, not an unusual piece of furniture in ancient churches; in the year 1097 Hugo de Flori, abbot of St. Augustine’s, Canterbury, bought for the choir of his church a candlestick of this kind.”--See Parker, _Glossary of Architecture_.

[158] See his _El Pórtico de Gloria_ (2nd ed., 1893).

[159] Viollet le Duc has shown how the statuary of the Middle Ages produced perfect harmony between “l’intelligence et son envelope. Dans les traits des visages comme dans les formes et les movements du corp on retrouve l’individu moral. Chaque statue possède un character personnel qui rest gravi dans le mémoire comme le souvenir d’un être vivant qu’on a connu.”

[160] Didron has published the whole of the MS. of Dionisius (_op. cit._).

[161] See E. J. Millington’s translation of Didron.

[162] _Op. cit._

[163] It was taken under the auspices of the artist Brucciani in 1866.

[164] “Dans l’Espagne chrétienne aucun monument, avant l’époque des grandes cathédrales du XIII siècle, n’est comparable au porche de Compostelle; aucun n’est comme lui une construction d’architecte, de sculpteur et de poète. En France les porches de Chartres exposent une iconographie plus compliquée, et plus savante. L’auteur du porche de Compostelle n’a pas réalisé en pierre une somme théologique, mais un hymne épique.”--See _Histoire de l’Art_, vol. i., ed. André Michel, Paris.

[165] See his work on the _Cathedral of Santiago_, vol. iv., 1901. This authority describes the capital thus: “El perfil de nuestros capiteles es de un tambour cilindrico que desde la base se va ensanchando por igual con la follaje, hasta tocar en el abaco ó en la imposta, bajo cuyos cuatro angulos las molduras se entienden y encorvan para delinear la antigua voluta elanca.”

[166] They fondly believe that this class of design had spread from Ireland to the Continent.

[167] See Margaret Stoke’s _Six Months in the Apennines_, 1892.

[168] “Chaque artisan était intéressé ainsi à ce que son morceau se distinguât entre tous les autres pas une execution plus parfait” (_op. cit._).

[169] See Parker.

[170] See Adolfo Fernandez Casanova (_op. cit._).

[171] See illustration in Viollet le Duc, _Dictionnaire Raisonnée_, vol. vii.

[172] See Sanchez.

[173] See Villa-Amil, _Iglesias Gallegas_, p. 271 (1904).

[174] Villa-Amil gives the exact wording of the document (_op. cit._).

[175] “Por una carta del Arzobispo de Zaragoza á su padre et Rey Catolico, que publicó. Cean Bermúdez, se sabe que había recibido Enrique Egas orden del Rey para ir á Santiago á derigir la obra del Hospital por todo el mes de Febrero de 1505” (_Eglesias Gallegas_).

[176] Villa-Amil points out that the statue of St. Paul in the _Pórtico de Gloria_ also has a long beard.

[177] This kind of verse was very common among hymn-writers of the Middle Ages, and is used in the inscriptions on the consecration crosses of the cathedral (1211).

[178] See Lopez Ferreiro, _Hist. Cat. de Santiago_, vol. iv., note.

[179] Florez gives the Latin of Orosius from bk. I. ch. v. See _Esp. Sag._ vol. xxi.

[180] In the forties of last century this journey took seventy hours. See Ford.

[181] In Murray’s _Handbook for Travellers in Spain_ (London, 1845) we read that the body of Moore was afterwards removed by the Marquis of Romana from its original grave in the cemetery of San Carlos to where it now lies: the present monument was paid for by the British Government through the agency of the British Consul, Mr. Bartlett. In 1839 (three years after Borrow’s visit) General Mazaredo, a Spaniard, who lived much in England, raised a subscription there with which he repaired the tomb and planted the surrounding ground for a public Alameda. Spanish writers do not mention any removal of the body.

[182] Borrow. Guadalete, Moorish equivalent for Lethe or Limia. See account of that river in Chapter II. of this volume.

[183] _Life of Wellington._

[184] “El general inglis Moore que murió en 1809 defendiendo la poblacion,” says one of them.

[185] I would recommend all who are interested in the authorship of these lines to read Mr. Newick’s pamphlet, _The Writer of the Burial of Sir John Moore discovered_ (T. Thatcher, Bristol), which was brought to my notice by a letter from Professor Skeat in the _Daily Telegraph_ for January 19, 1909.

[186] _sube al cielo_.

[187] Ford, _Gatherings from Spain_.

[188] See _Monografía geografico-historica de Galicia_, published Madrid, 1907.

[189] _Monografía de Galicia_, 1907.

[190] See Chapter on _Galicia’s Livestock_ in this volume.

[191] See Chapter on Emigration.

[192] See B. F. Alonso, _Guerra Hispano-Lusitana_, 1893.

[193] _La Voz de Galicia._

[194] There are more Norwegians in the United States than the whole population of the mother country.

[195] See _Le progrès économique de la République Argentine_, published by Banco Español del Rio de la Plata, August 1906.

[196] See Verea y Aguiar, _Historia de Galicia_, vol. i., 1838.

[197] See Prologue to her _Follas Novas_, by Emilio Castelar.

[198] It is known in Madrid by the name _morrinha Gallega_.

[199] See J. V. Failde, _Rosalia Castro_, Madrid, 1906.

[200] “Nos somos arpa de soyo duas cordas, a’ imaẍinacion y o’ sentimiento.”

[201] “Tienen singularísimo valor los diminutivos Gallegas” (Marquis de Figueroa).

[202] See his _De la Poesía Gallega_, 1889.

[203] “Por Galicia penetró el gusto provenzal en Castille hasta principios del siglo xiii.” See Theophile Braga, _Trovadores Galaice-portugueses_.

[204] Pastor Dias was one of these; though a Gallegan by birth and in temperament, he only wrote one poem in the Gallegan dialect. See Marquis de Figueroa (_Op. cit._), p. 41.

[205] Emilia Pardo Bazán, quoted by Marquis de Figueroa.

[206] _Op. cit._

[207] See Eugenio Carré Aldao, _La Literatura Gallega en el siglo xix._, 1903.

[208] Murguia.

[209] See _Deux Manuscrits Wisigothiques de la bibliotheque de Ferdinand I._ Paris, 1901.

[210] The diary of this Gallegan Pepys begins with the year 1546:--“Año del Señor de mil e quinientos y quarenta y seis años: siendo yo vice Rector de la villa de Carril cayó Sant Juan y Corpus Xpi en un dia: fué año de jubileo: fueron ocho de Aureo numero: letra dominical fue C. Abia dos años que cantara misa nueva....”

[211] In rich families thirteen ounces of gold are handed to the bride, but whatever the metal, the number must always be thirteen; it is a symbol of the husband’s promise to endow his wife with all his worldly goods.

[212] See George Macdonald, _Coin Types_, 1905.

[213] “The first specimens of British coinage can hardly be later than circa 150 B.C.” (_op. cit._).

[214] Quoted by P. W. Joyce in _A Social History of Ancient Ireland_, 1903. This writer adds: “How much Ireland was richer than Britain in gold is well illustrated by the fact that while the total weight of the gold ornaments in the British Museum collected from England, Wales, and Scotland (excluding those from Ireland) is not more than 5 oz., those of the collection in the National Museum in Dublin weigh about 570 oz.”

[215] “Ordono II., en la carta por la que dona á la iglesa de Santiago una villa que fué de cierta Elvira, en 27 de Febrero de 922, dice: ’_accepimus_ in offertionem ex parte prenominate ecclesie limace eum lapidibus et auro sculpto in D, solides necnon ... balteum aureum cum lapidibus miro opere compositum similitem in D, solidos.” (Published for first time by Señor Lopez Ferreiro in Appendix of his _Hist. Igl. Santiago_, vol. ii., 1899. Quoted by Villa-Amil in _Mobiliario Liturgico_.)

[216] See Benito F. Alonso, _El Pontificado Gallego_, p. 667.

[217] See Ford (_op. cit._) on this subject.

[218] See Dr. K. T. Raer, _Geschichte des Pfluges_, 1845; also Dr. O. Schrader, _Prehistoric Antiquities of the Aryan Peoples_, trans. by F. B. Jevons, 1890.

[219] Victor Lopez Seoane, _Fauna Mastologica de Galicia_, Santiago, 1861.

[220] Galicia’s horses were poetically described by the ancients as “the children of the Atlantic winds.”

[221] See V. L. Seoane, _Fauna Mastologica de Galicia_, 1861.

[222] This author translated Pliny’s _Natural History_ into Spanish.

[223] See Fidel Fita, _Recuerdos de un viaje á Santiago de Galicia_, Madrid, 1880.

[224] _Esp. Sagrada_, vol. xix.

[225] Fidel Fita (_op. cit._).

[226] See Villa-Amil, _Mobilario Liturgico_, 1907.

[227] See _Monografía de Galicia_, 1905. Sanchez stated in 1885 that the excavations already made led to the supposition that the capitol covered a space a league broad and half a league wide (17-1/2 Spanish leagues make a geographical degree).

[228] About twelve kilometres from Santiago.

[229] See Sancha (_op. cit._), p. 438.

[230] See _España Sagrada_ for a long list of distinguished bishops. The church which stood here in the ninth century was called _Santa Eulalia_. Fita says that the present church was rebuilt in 1685-1715.

[231] The Sar flows into the Ulla.

[232] _Op. cit._, p. 434.

[233] See Ticknor, _History of Spanish Literature_, chap. xx., and note.

[234] _Op. cit._

[235] Florez.

[236] In the sixteenth century.

[237] The legend of Noah having founded Noya is thought to have been invented by Annius of Viterbo, or some such person.

[238] The founder and first president of the Academia de Bellas Artes of Madrid.

[239] See Vincente Lamperez y Romea, _Notas sobre algunos Monumentos de la Arquitectura Christiana Española_. Madrid, 1904.

[240] “It is hard to believe,” remarks Lamperez, “as one compares this work with that of the _Pórtico de Gloria_, that three centuries elapsed between their construction.”

[241] Montalembert.

[242] Borrow, _op. cit._, mentions this bridge,--“we reached a long and ruinous bridge, seemingly of great antiquity, ... the bridge of Don Alonso. It crossed a species of creek or rather firth, for the sea was at no considerable distance; the small town of Noya lay to our right” (he should have written left).

[243] Local authorities have many times assured me that there is no trace of the Basque language or people in Galicia.

[244] Aguiar, _op. cit._, says of this village: “Este memoria es antiquisima aun cuando fuere alge posterior su imposition en Galicia á la existencia del 5te rey de Lacedemonia que fué dictio Argalo cerca 1400 B.C.”

[245] See _Monografía de Galicia_, 1905.

[246] The Gallegans invariably use the name “America” where we should say “South America.”

[247] Pontevedra was made the capital of the province by Royal Charter in 1833. See Villa-Amil, _Iglesias Gallegas_.

[248] See _España Sagrada_, vol. xix.

[249] Fidel Fita thought that two Roman roads met here.

[250] See Villa-Amil, _op. cit._; and Casto Sampedro, _Coleccion de documentos e inscripciones para la historia de Pontevedra_, p. 218, vol. ii., 1897.

[251] Lopez Ferreiro calls this edifice the _perla del arte Gallega_.

[252] This curious little book is an extract from the Hakluyt MS.

[253] Señor Sampedro hopes shortly to publish further particulars.

[254] By Bishop Juan Lopez. See full particulars in Villa-Amil (_op. cit._).

[255] See _Narrative of the Embassy_, by Ruy Gonzalez de Clavijo, 1403 A.D. Translated by C. Markham, 1859.

[256] See preface to _Voyages of Pedro Sarmiento de Gamboa to the Straits of Magellan_, translated 1895. Sir Clements Markham states that Sarmiento was born at Alcala de Henares in 1532, but that he was brought up in his father’s house at Pontevedra.

[257] Señor Casto Sampedro tells me it is without doubt the very same house.

[258] Published in 1904.

[259] See _Les Origines de la France_. The Marquis de Ayerbe occupies the post of Spanish Minister to Portugal.

[260] See J. H. Rivett Carnac, article in _Journal of Royal Asiatic Society_, 1903.

[261] See _Prehistoric Phares_, by Hodder M. Westropp, 1872.

[262] See Sir J. T. Simpson, _Ancient Sculpturing of Cups and Concentric Rings_, 1867.

[263] See Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland, 1892-93.

[264] See his _Letters from Spain and Portugal_, 1797.

[265] See Chapter I., also T. Rice Holmes, _Ancient Britain and the Invasions of Julius Cæsar_ (1907), p. 483.

[266] See _España Sagrada_, vol. xxii. (It was this hero who wounded Mars and Venus.)

[267] See Villa-Amil, _Iglesias Gallegas_.

[268] Villa-Amil has seen documents proving that the Dominicans only acquired its site in 1498, so that it must have been begun after that date.

[269] See A. D. Casanova, _Iglesias Medioevales de Tuy_, 1907.

[270] Lamperez thinks it was begun in 1100, and constructed very slowly.

[271] See Casanova.

[272] See Ford.

[273] See Benito F. Alonso, _El Pontificado Gallego_, 1897.

[274] Benito F. Alonso gives these particulars on p. 234 of _El Pontificado Gallego_, but on p. 60 of the same work he speaks of Eufemia as a martyr of the fourth century.

[275] See Benito F. Alonso, _op. cit._

[276] _Op. cit._

[277] See _Hübner_, and article by A. Vazquez Nuñez in _Orense Archæological Journal_.

[278] For an account of the longer excursions that should be taken from Orense, see Chapter on the Great Monasteries of Galicia in this volume.

[279] Greco was the painter who, of all others, had the greatest influence over Velasquez.

[280] The Counts of Lemos were at one time the most powerful nobles in Galicia.

[281] See his _Les Celts depuis les temps les plus anciens_, Paris, 1904.

[282] See Miquel Garcia y Teyeiro, _Lugo_, 1906.

[283] _Op. cit._

[284] See his article in _Mureo Española de Antiquidades_.

[285] See Photograph in Chapter on Noya.

[286] “Segundo Congreso Eucaristico español.”

[287] See article by Dr. Eladio Oviedo published in _La Mañana_, Coruña, 1890.

[288] This inclination is also visible from the outside, which is not the case at Sar.

[289] See _Monografis de Galicia_, 1905.

[290] William Jacob, _Travels in the South of Spain_, 1811.

[291] _Fundacion, antiquedad, y progressos del Imperial Monasterio de nuestra Señora de Ossera_ (Osera).

[292] “El sitio es una montana cuyas inascesibles cuestes, y empeñados siscos causa horror al que las mira” (_op. cit._).

[293] See _España Segrada_, vol. xvii.

[294] See _Tumbo del Monasterio de Osera_, folio 195.

[295] See _Monografía Geografico-historica de Galicia_, 1905.

[296] See Arturo Vazquez, _op. cit._

[297] See Villa-Amil, _op. cit._

[298] This poet has migrated to Cuba.

[299] See Ambrosio Morales, _op. cit._

[300] This kind of building was much used by the Romans, who called it “Incertum opus,” the stones being small and unhewn.--See Parker.

[301] Quoted by Villa-Amil in _Iglesias Gallegan_.

[302] See Arturo Vazquez Nuñez, _La Arquitectura Cristina en la provencia de Orense_, 1894, where the full wording of the paragraph is given. The same writer also remarks that in the time of Adozno there was a duplex monastery at Santa Comba, and that Adozno fell in love with the abbess, but eventually repented and expiated his sin.

[303] See Labrada.

[304] Two English brothers named Benjamin set up some machinery in the town of Pontevedra about the same time, but their enterprise did not meet with success.

[305] Ford wrote: “The treading out of the fruit is generally done by night, because it is then cooler, and in order to avoid as much as possible the plague of wasps by whom the half-naked operators are liable to be stung.”

[306] Water, 1 litre:

Acido carbonico libre 0,983 gramos. Bicarbonatado de sosa 2,284 “ Idem de potasa 0,199 “ Idem de cal 0,156 “ Idem de magnesia 0,041 “ Idem de hierro 0,037 “ Cloruro de sodio 0,148 “ Silice 0,069 “ Lithina } Arsénico } Estronciana } Indicios. Yodo }

DOCTOR ISIDRO PONDAL.

[307] _Buscar su madre Gallega._

[308] “Her earliest success was a prize essay on Feijoó, 1876, ... her foundation of a critical review, the _Nuevo Teatro Critico_, written entirely by herself, showed confidence and enterprise, and enabled her to propagate her eclectic views on life and art. It is as a naturalistic novelist that Señora Pardo Bazán is generally known” (James Fitzmaurice Kelly, in _A History of Spanish Literature_, 1898). The great Benedictine, Feijoó, was also a native of Galicia.