Category: Travel Writing

Galicia, the Switzerland of Spain

Ancient Galicia--Never conquered by the Moors--The cradle of Spanish nobility--A goal for pilgrims--Modern writers on Galicia--A rich literature--National traditions--Martial genius--No Basques--Iberian words--Ligurians in Spain--Barrows and tumuli--Druidical stones--Celtic Sp...

Chapters

27. CHAPTER XXVII

The dignity of human beings--Mineral wealth of Galicia--Gold in the sand--Ancient authorities--Ireland and Spanish gold--Visigothic coins--Galicia’s secret--Turned up by the plo...

25. CHAPTER XXV

The monastery of Osera--Peralta--Foundation of the monastery and its first abbot--“The Escurial of Galicia”--Difficulty of access--The journey--On horseback--A petrified ocean--...

19. CHAPTER XIX

Situation of Noya--Antiquity of the town--The coach drive from Santiago--Singing cartwheels--Where the golden torques were found--Copper and iron--Mountain valleys--Waterfalls--...

20. CHAPTER XX

Villagarcia--Site of King Alfonso’s new palace--Pontevedra--A magnificent stone bridge--The fishermen’s guild--The fishermen’s church--The façade--The interior--The architect of...

13. CHAPTER XIII

Sir John Moore--The province of Coruña--The town of Coruña--By sea to Coruña--Our steamer--The other passengers--A dangerous harbour--Fear of stowaways--Glass-covered galleries-...

16. CHAPTER XVI

A walled city--Beautiful views--A _Casa de Huespedes_--Chocolate--Partridges and trout--Bearing the cold--Rainy months--Damp in the air--The university--The medical college--The...

9. CHAPTER IX

A wonderful portico--The triple archway--Origin of Western Christian art--A system of symbols--“Bible of the Poor”--Mosaic gives place to statuary--A magnificent design--The foc...

6. CHAPTER VI

St. James’s Road--The legend of St. James--Landing at Padron--Abbot Ildefred--Alfonso el Casto--The town of Santiago--Diego Gelmirez--The _Historia Compostelana_--Another famous...

1. CHAPTER I

Ancient Galicia--Never conquered by the Moors--The cradle of Spanish nobility--A goal for pilgrims--Modern writers on Galicia--A rich literature--National traditions--Martial ge...

3. CHAPTER III

Galicia’s first golden age--From Galicia to Palestine--The father of Spanish historians--His birthplace--_Civitas Limicorum_--An amusing story--Early life of Idatius--Arianism--...

7. CHAPTER VII

The beginnings of archæology--Caumont--The power of the Church in the Middle Ages--Montalembert--A despot who never dies--The age of cathedral-building--The architecture of Gali...

8. CHAPTER VIII

The original church--Compared with St. Sernin of Toulouse--A great resemblance--Notable differences--The respective architects--The monks of Cluny--Two master builders--The cupo...

23. CHAPTER XXIII

Monforte--The Jesuit College--A picture by Greco--Cloister planned by Herrera--Relics in the convent of Santa Clara--Doña Catalina--The modern town--Like a spider’s web--The Pro...

22. CHAPTER XXII

Our last view of Tuy Cathedral--Scenery between Tuy and Orense--Ribadavia--Boundaries of Orense--Crossing the Miño--The _Puente Mayor_--The hot springs--Their usefulness--The Ca...

17. CHAPTER XVII

The pig market--Pigs in every family--Laws relating to pigs and goats--Poultry--Oxen--The ancient plough--Gallegan carts--The music of the cartwheels--Excellent milk--No dairy f...

10. CHAPTER X

Favourite subjects--Plain capitals in English cathedrals--The foliage--The trumpet pattern--Capitals in the gallery--New elements--The arcades at Vézelay--Original but not reali...

14. CHAPTER XIV

An Agricultural Syndicate--The only flourishing industry--The flower of Galicia’s youth--Monopolisation and subdivision of the land--The lesser evil--The Argentine Republic--Fre...

4. CHAPTER IV

Avitus I. and Avitus II.--St. Isidore--The story of St. Fructuosus--The origin of duplex monasteries in Spain--One of the favourite saints of Galicia--Almanzor comes to Santiago...

5. CHAPTER V

A Romance language--The universal language of Spain--A provincial dialect--George Ticknor--The _Cantigas_ of Alfonso el Sabio--Comparison between the languages of Galicia and Po...

21. CHAPTER XXI

Southey at Redondela--Sacked by the English--The most modern town in Galicia--The finest climate in Spain--Submarine cables--Vigo’s harbour--_Vicus Spacorum_--Bayona--Tuy--Early...

18. CHAPTER XVIII

An emporium of Phœnician trade--From Padron to London--Iria Flavia--Landing of St. James--Drive from Santiago to Padron--A sacred mountain--_La Virgen de la Esclavitud_--Santa M...

24. CHAPTER XXIV

Betanzos and the Phœnicians--Earliest inhabitants--The _Fiesta de Caneiros_--Municipal archives--Market day--The “abominable tribute”--Tiobre--May Day--San Martin de Tiobre--San...

26. CHAPTER XXVI

Dates and bananas--Magnolias and camellias--Canes for trellis-work--The chestnut--Killing the goose that lays the golden egg--Walnut wood--The finest mouthful in the world--Ship...

11. CHAPTER XI

Ferdinand and Isabella--Levying a tribute--Foundation of the hospital--Molina’s description--The principal entrance--Iconographic decoration--Gargoyles--A mural painting--The ra...

15. CHAPTER XV

A sweet singer--A drop of Galicia’s life-blood--Rosalia’s lyrics--Home-sickness--_Cantares Gallegas_--_Follas Novas_--The ancient Britons--A star of the first magnitude--The out...

2. CHAPTER II

Boundaries of Galicia--Spurs of the Pyrenees--The Rias--Exuberant vegetation--Herds of cattle--Rivers--The “River of Oblivion”--The Miño and the Sil--Sword-making--Ptolemy--The...

12. CHAPTER XII

Peculiar architecture--An expedition to Sar--The river Sar--Eight square pillars--The first impulse--Seven and a half centuries--The present Gothic vaulting--A feat of architect...