Chapter XX.
DEER FORESTS AND GROUSE SHOOTING.
The red-deer of the Highland mountains form the subject of a branch of sport largely used as a means of recreation and recuperation by many of our most busy and often overworked statesmen, soldiers, and commercial and professional men.
The red-deer is indigenous in the northern parts of Scotland, as it used to be throughout the kingdom. There are so few obstructions that I believe it would be possible for these wild deer to roam if they pleased from the north of Caithness to the south of Argyleshire, but as a rule the deer attach themselves to particular localities. Their numbers do not increase rapidly, even under favourable circumstances. The antiquity of the red-deer in Gairloch is proved by their cast-off horns having been found deep in peat bogs, where they must have lain many centuries (Part III., chap. v.).
Deer are said to have been scarce in Gairloch in former times, when, notwithstanding rigorous penal statutes to the contrary, there was much poaching. In the reign of James I. (1424), there was an enactment that "alsoone as onie Stalker may be convict of slauchter of Deare, he sall paie to the King fourtie shillings; and the halders and mainteiners of them sall paie ten poundis;" and there were statutes of a similar character in almost every succeeding reign, the penalties becoming more serious as time went on. Since the time when the present system of letting deer forests was introduced, the number of deer in Gairloch has greatly increased.
A considerable part of the hill ground is now under deer, or, to use the popular but (to the uninitiated) misleading expression, is "forested." This word is supposed by some to be a corruption from the Gaelic word _fridh_, which they say was originally synonymous with the English "free;" not meaning that forests were free and open to the public (for nothing was less so under the old Scots acts), but signifying that the ground had been "freed from," or made clear of, cattle and sheep. If this were so, the word "forest" as thus used would of course have nothing whatever to do with trees. But the better opinion seems to be that the Gaelic word _fridh_ always meant a forest in the usual acceptation of the English word, and so was really covered with wood. The forests of timber which formerly clothed the Highlands have been previously mentioned, and the causes of their disappearance in recent times have been discussed (page 74). It was mostly the woodland that was kept unpastured, and so became the resort of wild animals, including deer. The _fridh_ was most strictly preserved, and exactly corresponded to the "forest" of the old Scots acts. In a Scots act of 1535, prohibiting the intrusion of "gudes, nolt, scheepe, horse, meires, or uther cattle," into "forrestes" reserved for "wild beastes and hunting," the "forrestes" are classed with "haned wooddes." Now "hained" is a Scotch word still in use; on the Borders they constantly speak of a grass field being "hained" when the stock are withdrawn from it, either to take a hay crop from it or to rest it. If _fridh_ (_Anglicè_, forest) was in 1535 considered equivalent to a "hained" wood, it appears unlikely that it ever meant a "free" wood. In any case, there is abundant evidence that for at least nearly five centuries deer forests have been private hunting grounds strictly protected by the legislature.
The deer forests of Gairloch are to a great extent unsuitable for sheep. The recently formed deer forests have been constituted by putting the sheep off what were previously sheep farms. It may surprise some readers to learn that in this part of the Highlands, as well as in many other parts, it generally requires at least ten acres of hill ground to support one sheep.
There are the following deer forests within the parish of Gairloch:--
{Kenlochewe. South-west of Loch Maree. {Flowerdale. {Shieldaig.
{Letterewe. North-east of Loch Maree. {Ardlair. {Kernsary (new).
These forests will by-and-by probably yield altogether about two hundred stags a year, besides a like number of hinds in the winter, but not until the newer forests have had a year or two more to allow of an increase of their stock of deer. It is impossible to estimate accurately the number of wild red-deer in Gairloch. Considering, however, the number of deer that may probably be killed in Gairloch after the next year or two, I would suppose that the stock when that time arrives will number about two thousand five hundred deer. This is a mere guess, based upon a comparison of the number killed and the stock on the ground, ascertained approximately by census, in some old deer forests that have come within my knowledge.
Stags are usually in condition for killing between 15th August and 8th or 10th October. These dates depend upon the season. In the case of a stag with a very fine head, the sportsman will probably not wish to shoot it until the horns are quite free from velvet, which perhaps may not be until well into September. Roaring begins in the last days of September, and a week or ten days later the stags are out of condition. There is no close time fixed by law for killing stags, and some proprietors do not even limit the season, which really fixes itself by the condition of the deer.
A stag which has twelve points to its antlers is called a royal, but a royal head is not necessarily first-rate. The best heads are distinguished by their wide span, thickness, and long points. A good stag is generally eight or ten years old at the least. The stag casts its horns every spring, and it is said the hinds eat the old horns; certainly they are seldom found.
Hinds are in the best condition for shooting in November and December. The hinds have only one calf in a year, though there have been rare cases known of a hind having two calves.
Deer-stalking is an arduous and absorbing sport,--its difficulty is its glory. This is especially so in the stag season, for in summer and autumn the deer often keep to the higher parts of the mountains. Frequently a stalk is only attempted when a good stag has been spied in the early morning, or even the day before. If it be decided to stalk a particular stag, the sportsman and his attendants endeavour to approach by such a route as that, if possible, they may not be visible, and so that no breeze may convey their scent to the wary deer. Notwithstanding every precaution, it will sometimes happen that the suspicious stag gets an alarm from a previously unseen sheep that has strayed into the forest, or from a crowing grouse, or a frightened mountain hare, or even an eagle, and it may be the chance of a shot is lost to the sportsman for that day.
Hence it will be seen how fatal to a successful stalk would be the sudden presence upon the scene of a thoughtless rambler upon the mountains, who, quite unintentionally it might be, would thus mar the pleasure and success of the hard-earned and well-paid-for sport of the deer-stalker.
Until late years the deer were hunted by staghounds, and the present method of deer-stalking was rarely practised. Now-a-days dogs are not much used except for the purpose of tracking wounded deer; and cross-bred dogs, including strains of the collie, pointer, lurcher, and other breeds, are found to be better adapted to this use than the handsome staghounds so grandly depicted by Sir Edwin Landseer, scent being more important than speed. Even for tracking, dogs are little used in the smaller forests, lest their baying might drive deer away to other ground.
In "The Pennylesse Pilgrimage," by John Taylor, "the King's Majestie's Water Poet," printed 1633, an excursion he made to Scotland is described. He visited the Earl of Mar at Braemar, and made the following quaint record:--
"There did I find the truely noble and Right Honourable Lords John Erskine, Earle of Marr; James Stuart, Earle of Murray; George Gordon, Earle of Engye, sonne and heire to the Marquise of Huntley; James Erskin, Earle of Bughan; and John, Lord Erskin, sonne and heire to the Earle of Marr, with their Countesses, with my much honoured, and my best assured and approved friend, Sir William Murray, Knight, of Abercarny, and hundreds of others, knights, esquires, and their followers; all and every man in general in one habit, as if Licurgus had been there and made lawes of equality. For once in the yeere, which is the whole moneth of August, and sometimes part of September, many of the nobility and gentry of the kingdome (for their pleasure) doe come into these Highland countries to hunt, where they doe conforme themselves to the habite of the Highland men, who, for the moste parte, speake nothing but Irish; and in former time were those people which were called _red-shanks_. Their habite is shoes with but one sole apiece; stockings (which they call short-hose) made of a warme stuff of divers colours, which they call tartane. As for breeches, many of them, nor their forefathers, never wore any, but a jerkin of the same stuffe that their hose is of, their garters being bands or wreathes of hay or straw, with a plaed about their shoulders, which is a mantle of divers colours, much finer and lighter stuffe than their hose, with blue flat caps on their heads, a handkerchiefe knit with two knots about their necks; and thus are they attyred. Now, their weapons are long bowes and forked arrowes, swords and targets, harquebusses, muskets, durks, and Loquhabor axes. With these weapons I found many of them armed for the hunting. As for their attire, any man of what degree soever that comes amongst them must not disdaine to weare it; for if they doe, then they will disdaine to hunt, or willingly bring in their dogges; but if men be kind unto them, and be in their habite, then they are conquered with kindnesse, and sport will be plentifull. This was the reason that I found so many noblemen and gentlemen in those shapes. But to proceed to the hunting.
"My good Lord of Marr having put me into that shape, I rode with him from his house, where I saw the ruines of an old castle called the castle of Kindroght," &c.
It thus appears that lowlanders were in the habit of visiting the Highlands nearly three hundred years ago for the purpose of hunting the red-deer, and that to please the natives they adopted the Highland dress whilst in the north.
It was not, I believe, until between 1830 and 1835 that the present system of letting deer forests became general in the Highlands. The rents paid to the proprietors have enabled them in many cases to free their estates from encumbrances, and to effect material improvements, whilst the annual visits of wealthy southerners have conferred considerable benefits on the native population.
The well-remembered Colonel Inge, who (about 1832) began his sporting visits to the Highlands, is often spoken of as one of the pioneers of English sportsmen in the north. At that time he rented deer-stalking in Gairloch from Sir Francis Mackenzie, and the military discipline he maintained among the forty keepers and gillies he always employed is still spoken of, as are also his passion for method and order, and his love of a good joke.
There are many misconceptions abroad with regard to deer forests, even among those who might be expected to be better informed.
In 1883 a Royal Commission inquired into the condition of the crofters and cottars in the Highlands and islands of Scotland. In the report of the Commissioners a large section is devoted exclusively to deer forests and game. The Commission was considered to be decidedly friendly to the interests of the crofters. The report can be purchased through any bookseller for 4s. 8d., and ought to be perused by all who are interested in the subject. The following quotations speak for themselves:--
The Commissioners say:--"The principal objections advanced against deer forests, as presented to us, are the following:--
"1. That they have been created to a great extent by the eviction or removal of the inhabitants, and have been the cause of depopulation.
"2. That land now cleared for deer might be made available for profitable occupation by crofters.
"3. That it might at all events be occupied by sheep farmers, and that a great loss of mutton and wool to the nation might thus be avoided.
"4. That in some places, where deer-forests are contiguous to arable land in the occupation of crofters, damage is done to the crops of the latter by the deer.
"5. That deer deteriorate the pasture.
"6. That the temporary employment of gillies and others in connection with deer forests has a demoralising effect.
"1. In regard to the first of these objections, we have to state that we have only found, during the course of our inquiry, one clearly established case in evidence of the removal of crofters for the purpose of adding to an already existing forest. Depopulation, therefore, cannot be directly attributed to deer forests, unless it can be shewn that they employ fewer people than sheep farms.
"2. The evidence on this head is, as might be supposed, very conflicting. It is of course true that there are few deer forests where an occasional spot of hard green land might not be found which would be available for a crofter's residence, and cultivation; but, looking to the small proportion of arable to pasture land in such places, it may fairly be assumed that almost insuperable difficulties would be offered to the settlement of crofters in these deer forests, as they would find it impossible to defray the expense of purchasing the large sheep stock which the ground is competent to carry, even though they would not in this case be obliged to take over the stock on the ground at a valuation.
"3. Suffice it to say, that as sheep in the Highlands do not come into the market until they are three years old, and, making no allowance for losses, there would be an additional annual supply of about 132,000 if all these forests were fully stocked with sheep; it is thus abundantly evident that, in view of the sheep in the United Kingdom amounting to 27½ millions,--besides all the beef grown at home, and all the beef and mutton imported, both dead and alive, from abroad,--the loss to the community is not only insignificant but almost inappreciable; while owing to the large importation of wool from abroad, the additional supply of home-grown wool would be altogether unimportant, if the area now occupied by deer were devoted to sheep."
"4. This complaint has been brought several times under our notice. In some cases the proprietor has, when appealed to by the crofters, shewn readiness to erect a fence to protect their crops from depredation, or to afford aid in warding off the deer; but in others the small tenant has been left without protection and without assistance." To meet these latter cases simple remedies are suggested.
5. The Commissioners state that the evidence on the fifth objection is conflicting; they express no definite opinion of their own upon it.
6. In discussing the last objection, the Commissioners state the pros and cons, which they seem to balance pretty evenly. They add: "It must be remembered, however, that temptations to dissipation are not tendered to the youth of the Highlands by sporting employments only. They may be found with equal facility, and less qualified by wholesome influences, in connection with the existence of a sea-faring man, a fisherman, or a casual labourer in the lowlands,--in fact, in all the other walks of labour and of gain to which the Highlanders betake themselves, and betake themselves with confidence and success. That there is a certain number of persons living loosely on the custom of tourists, anglers, and occasional sportsmen in the Highlands, and thus engaged in pursuits unfavourable to habits of settled industry, is undoubtedly true; but these people are not attached to forests, and their existence is inseparable from the general attractions of the country."
The Commissioners then summarise the subject in discussing two comprehensive questions. The first is, whether "the occupation of land as deer-forest inflicts any hardship or injury upon any class of the community, and if so upon what class?" and in reply to this question they say, "It has been shewn that crofters have rarely, at least in recent times, been removed to make or add to deer forests; that comparatively little of the land so occupied could now be profitably cultivated or pastured by small tenants; that no appreciable loss is occasioned to the nation, either in mutton or wool; and that the charge of inducing idle and intemperate habits among the population is not consistent with experience. There remains the class of sheep-farmers, of whom it may be said, that if they are affected at all, it is only in connection with the cost of wintering their hill sheep, and that in this respect deer forests have undoubtedly benefited those who remain by diminishing competition.
"We next have to inquire, Whether deer forests are of substantial benefit to the various classes which compose the community in the Highlands? There can be no doubt that in the case of landowners this is so. If it were otherwise, they would clearly not let their land for the purpose. The advantage is especially felt at the present moment, when sheep farms are very difficult to let. We believe that if it were not for deer forests, and if the present condition of sheep farms is prolonged, much of the land in the Highlands might be temporarily unoccupied, or occupied on terms ruinous to the proprietor.
"It has been shewn in evidence that not only does the proprietor derive pecuniary benefit from the system, but that, either through himself or his shooting tenant, substantial advantages have accrued to other classes of persons resident in the district. In the first place, the high rents given for deer forests must have the result of reducing local taxation, and this affects the smallest crofter as well as the largest farmer. The material advantage to the inhabitants of such districts does not, however, stop here. We have evidence that a very large expenditure has been effected, both by owners and lessees of deer forests, which would not certainly have been the case in their absence. Especially as regards those who have recently purchased Highland properties, it seems that while a deer forest formed the chief original attraction, this may subsequently become only an incident in the charm of a Highland residence, and that a great portion of the improvements made by new proprietors has little direct reference to sport. As instances of the latter may be mentioned the erection of houses of a class far superior to mere shooting-lodges, roads, farm buildings, and, above all, plantations, which in some cases are on a very large scale, and which, so far from being immediately dependent on or connected with deer, require to be carefully protected from them by six-foot wire fences. The expenditure directly connected with deer forests occupied by tenants includes bridle-paths, shooting-lodges, and keepers' houses, besides a good deal of wire-fencing, sometimes between sheep and deer, and sometimes between one deer forest and another. Taken together, the expenditure is very large. It will be thus seen that, contrary to what is probably the popular belief, deer forests in a far greater degree than sheep farms afford employment to the various classes above mentioned, and this consideration forms, in our judgment, the most interesting of all those which have been submitted to us."
In the above extracts detached sentences and paragraphs have been quoted, but any reader who cares to compare the quotations with the original report will, I am sure, allow that the extracts present a fair epitome of the Commissioners' views.
It is but right to add, that the Commissioners make the following recommendation on this subject:--
"It is our opinion that provisions should be framed, under which the crofting class would be protected against any diminution, for the purpose of afforestment, of arable or pasture area now in their possession, and by which the areas which might hereafter form the most appropriate scene for expanding cultivation and small holdings, should be preserved from curtailment; if this were done, the interests of the class for whom we are specially concerned would be effectually secured."
* * * * *
Grouse shooting is of course a sport largely indulged in by sportsmen tenants in Gairloch, as in other parts of the Highlands. Grouse are not so abundant on the west coast moorlands as in some other districts. This is principally due to two causes,--the larger proportion of bent-grass and rushes to heather, which is the food of grouse; and the cold hail and rain which often occur just at the time the grouse are hatching. There is one compensation, viz., the grouse disease does not appear so frequently, nor wreak such wholesale destruction, on Gairloch moors as on other better stocked grounds elsewhere. In many years nearly all the first nests produce no young birds, so that by the Twelfth "cheepers" are still abundant, and it is far pleasanter to defer grouse shooting until a fortnight later.
The delights and the healthfulness of grouse shooting have been favourite subjects of sporting writers. There are few peculiarities in grouse shooting in Gairloch. Perhaps it is worth mention that mixed bags are more frequent here than in many districts, and this is especially true in the latter part of the season, which by-the-by yields out and away the most enjoyable and invigorating sport. It is a pity that so many sportsmen from the south run away to their partridges and pheasants, and leave untouched and unenjoyed the very pick of Highland sport. Many sportsmen, even of some experience, would be surprised to find how well grouse lie to dogs on the west coast up to the very last day of the season. In and after October the following varieties may be added to the bag of grouse, viz., woodcock, snipe, wild duck, teal, golden plover, rock-pigeon, hares, and rabbits. Of course black game and partridges are also frequently met with, as well as roe-deer.
Grouse and ptarmigan are shot in all the deer forests of Gairloch. There are only three separate grouse shootings in the parish, viz., those attached to Inveran, Poolhouse, and Drumchork.
List of Books and MSS. quoted or referred to.
BEAUTIES OF GAELIC POETRY. By JOHN MACKENZIE.
BENNETSFIELD MS.
BISHOP R. FORBES' JOURNALS, AND CHURCH IN ROSS. By Rev. J. B. CRAVEN, 1886.
BLAEU'S MAP OF THE NORTH OF SCOTLAND, 1660.
BRITISH BIRDS. By WILLIAM YARRELL, V.P.L.S., F.Z.S.; revised and enlarged by NEWTON and SAUNDERS; completed 1885.
BRITISH LICHENS. By W. LAUDER LINDSAY, M.D., &c., 1856.
BRITISH WILD FLOWERS, illustrated by JOHN E. SOWERBY; with Supplement by SALTER and SOWERBY, 1876.
BRONZE WEAPONS AND OTHER REMAINS FOUND NEAR POOLEWE. By WILLIAM JOLLY, F.G.S., F.R.S.E.
BURT'S LETTERS FROM THE NORTH OF SCOTLAND (1726). Reprinted 1876.
CARMEN POOLEVIENSE. By H. F. WILSON, M.A., &c., Cambridge, 1885.
CELTIC MAGAZINE. Edited by ALEXANDER MACKENZIE, F.R.S.
DESCRIPTION OF THE WESTERN ISLANDS OF SCOTLAND. By MARTIN MARTIN, _circa_ 1695; reprinted 1884.
DOUGLAS'S PEERAGE.
DR SCOTT'S FASTI ECCLESIÆ SCOTICANÆ.
EARLY RECORDS RELATING TO MINING IN SCOTLAND. Collected by R. W. COCHRAN-PATRICK, M.P., LL.B. Cantab., F.S.A. Scot., &c., 1878.
ETTRICK SHEPHERD'S WORKS. Revised by Rev. THOMAS THOMSON, 1873.
GAELIC TOPOGRAPHY OF SCOTLAND. By Colonel JAMES A. ROBERTSON, F.S.A. Scot., 1869.
GENEALOGICAL ACCOUNT OF THE MACRAES. By Rev. JOHN MACRAE, who died 1704.
GENERAL SURVEY OF THE COUNTIES OF ROSS AND CROMARTY. By Sir GEORGE STEUART MACKENZIE of Coul, 1810.
GEOLOGICAL MAGAZINE.
GEOLOGICAL SKETCHES AT HOME AND ABROAD. By ARCHIBALD GEIKIE, LL.D., F.R.S.
GEORGE JAMESONE, THE SCOTTISH VANDYCK. By JOHN BULLOCK, 1885.
GUIDE TO THE ENGLISH LAKES. By HARRIET MARTINEAU.
GUIDE TO THE HIGHLANDS. By GEORGE and PETER ANDERSON.
HIGHLANDS AND WESTERN ISLES OF SCOTLAND. By JOHN MACCULLOCH, M.D., F.R.S., L.S.G.S., 1824.
HINTS FOR THE USE OF HIGHLAND TENANTS AND COTTAGERS. By Sir FRANCIS MACKENZIE, Bart. of Gairloch, published 1838.
HISTORY OF THE MACKENZIES. By ALEXANDER MACKENZIE, F.R.S., F.S.A. Scot.
HISTORY OF THE WESTERN HIGHLANDS AND ISLES OF SCOTLAND FROM A.D. 1493 TO A.D. 1625. By DONALD GREGORY, F.S.A. Scot., 1836.
LEABHAR NA FEINNE. By JOHN F. CAMPBELL of Islay.
LETTERFEARN MS. HISTORY OF THE MACKENZIES.
LETTERS FROM THE HIGHLANDS. Reprinted from the _Times_, 1884.
MACALPINE'S GAELIC DICTIONARY.
MANUFACTURE OF IRON IN GREAT BRITAIN. By GEORGE WILKIE, Assoc. Inst. C.E., 1857.
MAP OF "THE KINGDOME OF SCOTLAND." By JOHN SPEED, 1610.
MORE LEAVES FROM THE JOURNAL OF A LIFE IN THE HIGHLANDS. By HER MAJESTY QUEEN VICTORIA, 1883.
MY SCHOOLS AND SCHOOLMASTERS. By HUGH MILLER.
NATURAL HISTORY NOTES FROM RUSSIAN ASIA. By A. H. M., FIELD, October, 1883.
ODD AND END STORIES OF DR JOHN MACKENZIE, Eileanach (in MS.).
ORIGINES PAROCHIALES SCOTIÆ. Vol. II.
PENNYLESSE PILGRIMAGE. By JOHN TAYLOR, printed 1633.
PRESENT STATE OF GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND. Printed by J. BROTHERTON, London, 1747.
POEMS OF WILLIAM ROSS, the Gairloch Bard.
QUARTERLY JOURNAL OF THE GEOLOGICAL SOCIETY OF LONDON.
RECORDS OF THE PRESBYTERY OF DINGWALL.
RECORDS OF THE PRESBYTERY OF GAIRLOCH AND LOCH CARRON.
REMARKS ON DR SAMUEL JOHNSON'S JOURNEY TO THE HEBRIDES. By Rev. DONALD M'NICOL, A.M., 1779.
REPORT OF THE ROYAL COMMISSIONERS ON THE CROFTERS AND COTTARS OF THE HIGHLANDS AND ISLANDS OF SCOTLAND, 1884.
ROUGH NOTES ON BRITISH BIRDS. By E. T. BOOTH.
SAINT MAELRUBHA: HIS HISTORY AND CHURCHES. By WILLIAM REEVES, D.D., M.B., Vice-Pres. R.I.A., &c., 1859. Printed Vol. IV. of Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland.
SCENES AND LEGENDS OF THE NORTH OF SCOTLAND. By HUGH MILLER.
SCOTTISH HIGHLANDS. By Rev. THOMAS MACLAUCHLAN, LL.D., F.S.A.S.
SCULPTURED STONES OF SCOTLAND. Published by the Spalding Club, Vol. II.
SONGS AND POEMS. By DUNCAN MACKENZIE, "The Kenlochewe Bard." Edited by ALEXANDER MACKENZIE, F.R.S.
STATEMENT IN MS. By the Dowager Lady MACKENZIE of Gairloch, 1885.
STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF SCOTLAND. Compiled by Sir JOHN SINCLAIR, 1792; referred to in this book as the Old Statistical Account.
STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF SCOTLAND, 1836; referred to in this book as the New Statistical Account.
THE YORK BUILDINGS COMPANY: A CHAPTER IN SCOTTISH HISTORY. By DAVID MURRAY, M.A., F.S.A. Scot., 1883.
TOUR IN SCOTLAND. By THOMAS PENNANT, in 1772.
TOUR THROUGH THE HIGHLANDS OF SCOTLAND AND HEBRIDE ISLES IN 1786. By JOHN KNOX.
VALUATION ROLL OF THE COUNTIES OF ROSS AND CROMARTY.
VARIOUS SUPERSTITIONS IN THE NORTH-WEST HIGHLANDS AND ISLANDS OF SCOTLAND, ESPECIALLY IN RELATION TO LUNACY. By ARTHUR MITCHELL, A.M., M.D., &c. (1860), printed in Vol. IV. of Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland.
WORDS AND PLACES. By Rev. ISAAC TAYLOR.
Statement of Authorities for Traditions, &c., embodied in this Book.
TRADITION. AUTHORITY.
{Old inhabitants. Tragedy of Isle Maree {Anderson's Guide. {Dr Arthur Mitchell.
Black Murdo of the Cave and Leod {History of the Mackenzies. Mac Gilleandreis {James Mackenzie.
{The Ettrick Shepherd, on Ewan Mac Gabhar, the son of the {the authority of Mr Goat {M'Intyre of Letterewe. {Old inhabitants.
Expulsion of Mac Beath from Loch {_Celtic Magazine._ Tollie island {James Mackenzie.
Murder of Allan M'Leod and his two {James Mackenzie. boys {Old inhabitants.
Mac Gille Riabhaich's oak cudgel {Duncan Darroch, proprietor {of Torridon.
Donald Dubh Mac Gillechriosd {History of the Mackenzies. {Donald Gregory's History.
Vision of Hector Roy and his bodyguard Ruaridh an Torra.
Hector Roy and "The Gairloch." {Dr Mackenzie, Eileanach, on {the authority of the late {Alexander Campbell.
Battle of Park {History of the Mackenzies. {Other histories.
Big Duncan of the Axe History of the Mackenzies.
Battle of Drum a Chait History of the Mackenzies.
Hector Roy, Mac Cailean and the King _Celtic Magazine._
Fight at Beallach Glasleathaid History of the Mackenzies.
Fidelity of Iain Gearr to John Glassich History of the Mackenzies.
Donald Gorm's invasion of Kenlochewe {Origines Parochiales Scotiæ. {History of the Mackenzies.
John Roy's youth, and recovery of} {_Celtic Magazine._ Gairloch } {Kenneth Fraser, Leac nan {Saighead.
How Ruaridh Mackay became piper} Iain Buidhe Taillear. to John Roy }
John Roy's visit to Lord Mackenzie at} Iain Buidhe Taillear. Torridon }
Mac Iain Dhuibh MacLeod {Sir Kenneth S. Mackenzie, {Bart. {Old inhabitants.
Ruaridh Mac Allan M'Leod murders } Iain Mac Ghille Challum and his} Donald Gregory's History. two sons }
Affair of Leac nan Saighead Ruaridh an Torra.
Fionnla Dubh nan Saighead and young} Ruaridh an Torra. Macleod of Assynt }
Fionnla Dubh nan Saighead slays Neil {Alexander Maclennan. M'Leod {Old inhabitants.
{History of the Mackenzies. Fight at Lochan an Fheidh {Old inhabitants.
Affair at Raasay History of the Mackenzies.
Alastair Buidhe Mackay slays Iain} Geal Donn and other Lochaber } _Celtic Magazine._ cattle-lifters }
The guard of the Black Corrie _Celtic Magazine._
The watch at Glac na Sguithar Ruaridh an Torra.
Murder of the Gille Buidhe {George Maclennan, Londubh. {James Mackenzie. {Old inhabitants.
Duncan M'Rae hides the keg of gold {James Mackenzie. in the Fedan Mor {Old inhabitants.
Man-of-war fires a broadside at} Dr Mackenzie, Eileanach. Flowerdale House }
Rev. John Morrison exposed to} Old inhabitants. midges at Letterewe }
Christmas Eve at Tollie James Mackenzie.
Rev. Mr Sage's muscular Christianity James Mackintosh, postmaster, Poolewe.
The Hay tombstone James Mackenzie.
Old manner of administration of justice Simon Chisholm.
Memoirs of Bards and Pipers.
Ruaridh Mackay, piper Iain Buidhe Taillear.
John Mackay, piper and bard, called {Beauties of Gaelic Poetry; Iain Dall {corrected by Iain Buidhe {Taillear.
Angus Mackay, piper } Iain Buidhe Taillear. John Mackay, piper, his son}
William Mackenzie and Malcolm Maclean,} Beauties of Gaelic Poetry. bards }
William Ross, the Gairloch bard Beauties of Gaelic Poetry.
Alexander Campbell, bard to Sir Hector {Roderick Campbell. {James Mackenzie.
Alexander Grant, the bard mor an t'} James Mackenzie. Slaggan }
John Mackenzie of the "Beauties" {_Celtic Magazine_; corrected {by James Mackenzie, his {brother.
Roderick Campbell, piper and fiddler {Ali' Iain Ghlass. {James Mackenzie.
The History of the Mackenzies above referred to is that of which Mr Alexander Mackenzie, a native of Gairloch, is the author. The _Celtic Magazine_ is edited by the same Alexander Mackenzie. The Gairloch traditions taken from it are believed to have been mostly communicated to the Editor by Kenneth Fraser, of Leac nan Saighead, now an old man.
Where the traditions obtained from the sources stated above differ from the accounts of the same incidents given in old MSS., I have preferred to adopt the versions supported by the authorities referred to, believing them to be quite as reliable.
TABLES.
I. MOUNTAINS OF GAIRLOCH.
II. DISTANCES.
III. POPULATION OF GAIRLOCH.
IV. MINISTERS OF GAIRLOCH.
V. LAIRDS OF GAIRLOCH.
I.
Mountains of Gairloch.
THE TERM "MOUNTAIN" IS HERE TAKEN TO INCLUDE ALL HILLS OF TWO THOUSAND FEET AND UPWARDS IN HEIGHT.
NAME. HEIGHT IN FEET. The range {Beinn nan Ramh (shoulder) 2000 on the {Meallan Chuaich 2250 north-east {Groban (one face) 2424 boundary {Beinn Bheag (one face) 2000 of {Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair 3000 Gairloch. {Beinn Tarsuinn (one face) 2750 {A Mhaighdean, or the Maiden 2500 {Beinn Tarsuinn Chaol 2000
The range {Beinn a Mhuinidh 2231 along the {Slioch or Sleugach 3217 north-east {Beinn Lair 2817 of Loch {Meall Mheannidh 2000 Maree. {Beinn Aridh Charr 2593
The group {Beinn Eighe [Eay] 2750 to the {Do., spur called Sgurr Ban 3188 south-west { " Ruadh Stac 3309 of Loch { " Sail Mor 3217 Maree. {Meall a Ghuibhais 2882 {Beinn a Chearcaill 2376 {Beinn an Eoin 2314 {Bathais [Bus] Bheinn 2869 {Beinn Bhreac (a spur of Beinn Alligin) 2031 {Beinn Dearg (one face) 2500
This Table is compiled from the Ordnance Survey; the heights are taken exclusively from it.
Where not otherwise expressed the mountains are wholly in Gairloch.
II.
Distances.
PLACES ON THE LINE OF THE COUNTY ROAD THROUGH GAIRLOCH PARISH AND ON THE CONTINUATIONS TO RAILWAY STATIONS.
_Achnasheen Station_ 0 Luibmhor 4 Kenlochewe 10 Tagan Farm 11½ Ru Nohar Pier 12 Grudidh Bridge 15½ Talladale (Loch Maree Hotel) 19½ Victoria Falls 21 Slatadale 21½ Kerry Falls 25 Kerrysdale 27 Charlestown 28½ Gairloch Hotel 29½ Achtercairn 30 Tollie Farm Road 34½ Croft, or Cruive End 35 Poolewe 35½ Inverewe 36½ Tournaig 38 Drumchork 42½ Aultbea 43 Laide House 45 Sand of Udrigil 45½ First Coast 47 Second Coast 47½ Little Gruinard 49 _Meikle Gruinard River_ 50½ _Gruinard House_ 51¼ _Dundonell Inn_ 61 _Fain, or Feithean Inn_ 69 _Braemore Junction_ 76 _Garve Station_ 95
The short piece of road between the ford and ferry on the Meikle Gruinard river and the commencement of the county road near Gruinard House is very rough, but can be traversed by carriages.
The places printed in italics are outside the parish of Gairloch.
PLACES ON THE ROAD FROM KENLOCHEWE TO TORRIDON.
Kenlochewe Hotel 0 Loch Clair 4 _Bridge on the "burn of the Great Black Corrie"_ 6½ _Torridon village_ 11 _Torridon House_ 13
This road is within the parish of Gairloch only for the first six miles after leaving Kenlochewe, the places printed in italics are therefore outside the parish.
The road beyond the village of Torridon is the private approach to Torridon House.
PLACES ON THE ROAD ON THE SOUTH SIDE OF GAIRLOCH (THE SEA LOCH).
Gairloch Hotel 0 Charlestown 1 Kerrysdale 2½ Shieldaig 4 Badachro 7 Port-Henderson 8½ Openham, or Opinan 9½ South Erradale 10½ Point, or Red Point 13
The road is not passable for carriages beyond South Erradale, but its continuation is a good foot or bridle road.
PLACES ON THE ROAD TO THE NORTH OF GAIRLOCH (THE SEA LOCH), BEING THE SOUTH AND WEST SIDES OF THE NORTH POINT.
Gairloch Hotel 0 Achtercairn 0½ Strath, or Smithstown 1½ Lonmor 2 Carn Dearg House 3½ Little Sand 4 Big Sand 4½ North Erradale 6½ Altgreshan 10 Melvaig 11
PLACES ON THE ROAD ALONG THE WEST SIDE OF LOCH EWE.
Poolewe Inn 0 Boor 1 Naast 3 Inverasdale (Midton) 4 Do. (Coast) 5 Do. (Firemore) 6½ Meallan na Ghamhna (Stirkhill) 7½ Cove 9
The road will not do for carriages beyond Stirkhill, but its continuation is an excellent foot or bridle road.
PLACES ON THE PRIVATE ROAD FROM POOLEWE TO FIONN LOCH.
Poolewe Inn 0 Inveran Farm 2 Inveran Bridge 2½ Kernsary 3½ Fionn Loch 6
The road beyond the Inveran Bridge is kept strictly private, and the gate there is locked.
PLACES ON THE ROAD NORTH OF AULTBEA TO THE EAST OF LOCH EWE, BEING ON THE WEST SIDE OF THE GREENSTONE POINT.
Aultbea 0 Aird House 0½ Buaile na luib 1 Ormiscaig 2 Mellon Charles 3
The road beyond Aird House is not a good carriage road.
PLACES ON THE ROAD NORTH OF LAIDE, ON THE EAST SIDE OF THE GREENSTONE POINT, STARTING FROM AULTBEA.
Aultbea 0 Laide Village 2 Udrigil House 3½ Mellon Udrigil 5
The road beyond Laide is rough, but passable by carriages.
Those wishing to visit the places on the shores of Loch Ewe and to the north and east of Aultbea are recommended to stay at the Poolewe Hotel. The distances of the above-named places from Poolewe may be calculated by adding 7½ miles to the distance as stated from Aultbea.
DISTANCES OF PLACES ON LOCH MAREE ACCESSIBLE BY MEANS OF THE STEAMER FROM TOLLIE PIER.
Tollie Pier 0 Ardlair (by signal) 2½ Talladale (Loch Maree Hotel) 6 Letterewe 9 Ru Nohar 14
A special trip of the steamer may at any time in summer be arranged (at an hour not to interfere with her regular trips) to convey a party direct from Tollie Pier to Ru Nohar or _vice versâ_. In that case the distance between the two extremities of the voyage measures exactly twelve miles.
DISTANCES OF PLACES (ACCESSIBLE BY ROAD) FROM THE GAIRLOCH HOTEL.
Achnasheen 29½ Achtercairn 0½ Aird House, near Aultbea 14 Altgreshan 10 Aultbea 13½ Badachro 7 Big Sand 4½ Boor 7 Buaile na luib 14½ Carn Dearg House 3½ Charlestown 1 Cove 15 Croft, or Cruive End 5½ Drumchork 13 Fionn Loch (private road) 12 First Coast 17½ Grudidh Bridge 14 Inveran Bridge 8½ Inveran Farm 8 Inverasdale (Midton) 10 Do. (Coast) 11 Do. (Firemore) 12½ Inverewe 7 Kenlochewe 19½ Kernsary (private road) 9½ Kerry Falls 4½ Kerrysdale 2½ Laide House 15½ Laide Village 16 Little Gruinard 19½ Little Sand 4 Loch Clair 23½ Lonmor 2 Meallan na Ghamhna (Stirkhill) 13½ Mellon Charles 16½ Mellon Udrigil 19 Melvaig 11 Naast 9 North Erradale 6½ Openham, or Opinan 9½ Ormiscaig 15½ Poolewe Bridge 6 Port-Henderson 8½ Ru Nohar Pier 17½ Sand of Udrigil 16½ Second Coast 18 Shieldaig 4 Slatadale 8 South Erradale 10½ Strath, or Smithstown 1½ Tagan Farm 18 Talladale (Loch Maree Hotel) 10 Tollie Farm Road 5 Tollie Pier 6 Torridon Village 30½ Tournaig 8½ Udrigil House 17½ Victoria Falls 8½
III.
Population, &c., of Gairloch.
The only estimates of the population of the parish of Gairloch given in the old accounts of the parish are manifestly mere approximations. They are as follows:--
Sir George Steuart Mackenzie says the population in 1755 was 2050 Pennant in his Tour says the population " 1772 " 2800 The Old Statistical Account says the population " 1774 " 2000 Sir G. S. Mackenzie says the population from 1790 to 1798 " 2200
The Registrar-General's returns of the population and numbers of houses at the census taken in each of the following years is given below. The census of 1801 is believed to be imperfect, and that of 1811 gives a slightly less figure than the Rev. James Russell's estimate (see page 114). The population of Gairloch in 1801 was probably over 2000.
+--------+------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+ | Sex. |1801. | 1811. | 1821. | 1831. | 1841. | 1851. | 1861. | 1871. | 1881. | +--------+------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+ |Males | 740 | 1434 | 2410 | 2164 | 2346 | 2527 | 2617 | 2452 | 2253 | |Females | 697 | 1321 | 2108 | 2281 | 2534 | 2635 | 2832 | 2596 | 2341 | +--------+------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+ | Totals |1437 | 2755 | 4518 | 4445 | 4880 | 5162 | 5449 | 5048 | 4594 | +--------+------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+
_Number of Houses._
+-----------------------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+ |Description. | 1841. | 1851. | 1861. | 1871. | 1881. | +-----------------------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+ |Inhabited Houses | 925 | 947 | 1042 | 1001 | 966 | |Uninhabited Houses | 3 | 10 | 8 | 29 | 28 | |Houses in course of erection | 2 | 4 | 2 | 3 | 9 | +-----------------------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+ |Totals | 930 | 961 | 1052 | 1033 | 1003 | +-----------------------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+
IV.
Ministers of the Parish of Gairloch.
NAME. DATE OF PRESENTATION.
Sir John Broik, rector, about 1530 Alexander Mackenzie, 1582 or 1583 Farquhar M'Rae 1608 Farquhar Mackenzie 1614 Roderick Mackenzie 1649 John Morrison 1711 James Smith 1721 Æneas M'Aulay 1732 John Dounie 1758 Daniel Mackintosh 1773 John M'Queen, presented but refused to accept 1802 James Russell 1802 John Campbell 1845 Duncan Simon Mackenzie 1850
MINISTERS OF THE QUOAD SACRA PARISH OF POOLEWE.
Donald M'Rae 1829 Hugh Ferguson Macdonald 1846 John Sutherland Mackay 1848 William G. G. M'Lean, assistant 1884
V.
Lairds of Gairloch.
NAME. BORN. SUCCEEDED. DIED.
Hector Roy Mackenzie 1440 1494 1528 John Glassich Mackenzie 1513 1528 1550 Hector Mackenzie 1542 1550 1566 John Roy Mackenzie 1548 1566 1628 Alastair Breac Mackenzie 1577 1628 1638 Kenneth Mackenzie 1605 1638 1669 Alexander Mackenzie 1652 1669 1694 Sir Kenneth Mackenzie, Bart. 1671 1694 1703 Sir Alexander Mackenzie, Bart. (ninth laird) 1700 1703 1766 Sir Alexander Mackenzie, Bart. (tenth laird) 1731 1766 1770 Sir Hector Mackenzie, Bart. 1757 1770 1826 Sir Francis Alexander Mackenzie, Bart. 1799 1826 1843 Sir Kenneth Smith Mackenzie, Bart. 1832 1843 ----
Hector Roy received a grant of Gairloch from King James IV. in 1494. He is believed to have had a similar grant some years before.
Several of the dates given above are conjectural, especially among the earlier generations. For fuller details and evidence of dates see the History of the Mackenzies by Alexander Mackenzie, F.S.A. Scot.
Since John Roy Mackenzie, each laird of Gairloch has been the eldest or eldest surviving son of the preceding laird. John Roy was third son of John Glassich, who was the eldest son of Hector Roy. John Roy's elder brothers, Hector and Alexander, died without issue.
APPENDICES.
Extracts from Old Writers and Records, &c.
A. Genealogical Account of the MacRaes, by Rev. John Macrae, who died 1704.
B. Tour in Scotland, by Thomas Pennant, in 1772.
C. Old Statistical Account of Scotland, 1792.
D. Dr MacCulloch's Highlands and Western Isles of Scotland, 1811 to 1821.
E. New Statistical Account of Scotland, 1836.
F. Records of the Presbytery of Dingwall.
G. Records and Extracts relating to Sir George Hay and the Manufacture of Iron.
H. Addenda on St Maelrubha and Ecclesiastical History.
A.
EXTRACT from the "Genealogical account of the Macras, as originally written by Mr John Macra, sometime minister of Dingwall in Ross-shire, who died in the year of our Lord 1704. Transcribed by Farquhar Macra of Inverinate in the year 1786. Printed, Camden, South Carolina, 1874."
The following are some passages in the life of a Highland minister, who was vicar of Gairloch for ten years in the seventeenth century. Note:--the title "Mr" is applied in old books and documents only to those who held the degree of M.A. "Saint Johnstown" is the old name of Perth.
"Mr Farquhar Macra the second son of Christopher MacConnochie was born at Islandonan, anno 1580, being a seven months' child howbeit he became afterwards to be a man of a very strong body, and his father seeing his good genius for learning sent him to the school of Saint Johnstown, where he stayed four or five years and became a great master of the Latin language, as appears by some discoveries of his yet extant. From Perth his father sent him to the college of Edinburgh, where he became a pregnant philosopher beyond his condisciples, and commanded Master of Arts under the discipline of Mr Thomas Reid his regent, who afterwards became Principal of the College, all the members of which pitched on Mr Farquhar as the most accomplished and capable to take Reid's place as Regent. But Kenneth Lord Kintail, being then in Edinburgh, disapproved of the design, and prevailed with the members of the college to pass from Mr Farquhar, who himself preferred to be a preacher of the Gospel to any other calling whatsoever, and for that end had for some months preceding heard the lectures and lessons of Mr Robert Rollack, professor of divinity. So that omitting that opportunity of improving his great abilities he was brought by Lord Kenneth home to Chanery of Ross, where he was overseer of the Grammar school which then flourished there, and stayed for the space of fifteen months and passed his tryals. He became a sound, learned, eloquent and grave preacher, and was pitched upon by the bishop and clergy of Ross as the properest man to be minister of Garloch that he might thereby serve the colony of English which Sir George Hay of Airdry, afterwards Chancellor of Scotland, kept at Letterewe, making iron and casting cannon. Mr Farquhar having entered there did not only please the country people but also the strangers, especially George Hay. In the year 1610 Kenneth Lord Kintail brought Mr Farquhar with him to the Lewes, where he preached the Gospel to the inhabitants, who were great strangers to it for many years before, as is evident from his having to baptize all under forty years of age which he did, and married a vast number who lived there as man and wife thereby to legitimate their children, and to abolish the barbarous custom that prevailed of putting away their wives upon the least discord. This was so agreeable to the well thinking part of the people that my Lord Kintail promising to place such a man among them made them the more readily submit to him, so that all the inhabitants at this time took tacks from him except some of the sons of MacLeod of Lewes, who fled rather than submit to him. My Lord falling sick returned in haste home to Chanery of Ross where he died, and was the first of the family that was buried there, leaving the management of his affairs to Rory Mackenzie his brother, commonly called the Factor of Kintail, of whom are come the family of Cromarty. Mr Farquhar married Christian MacCulloch, eldest lawful daughter of MacCulloch of Park, on the first day of December 1611, dwelt at Ardlair, where several of his children were born.
"But Sir George Hay went from Letterew to Fife. He seriously invited Mr Farquhar to go with him, promising he would get him an act of Transplantation and his choice of several parishes of which he was Patron, and besides give him a yearly pension from himself and endeavour to get him ecclesiastical promotion. Mr Farquhar could not in gratitude refuse such an offer, and was content to go with him, was it not that Colin Lord of Kintail prevailed with Sir George to dispense with him, Lord Colin himself purposing to transplant him to Kintail, which was then vacant by the death of Mr Murdoch Murchison, uncle by the mother to Mr Farquhar, who accordingly succeeded his uncle both as minister of Kintail and Constable of Islandonan in the year 1618, as will appear by a contract betwixt Lord Colin and him dated at Chanery that year. Mr Farquhar lived here in an opulent and flourishing condition for many years much given to hospitality and charity....
"Mr Farquhar being rich when he came from Garloch provided his children considerably well, having six sons and two daughters that were settled in his own life time, viz. Alexander, Mr John, Mr Donald, Milmoire or Myles, Murdoch, and John....
"In the year 1651 Mr Farquhar, being old and heavy, removed from Islandonan by reason of the coldness of the air to a place called Inchcruiter, where he lived very plentifully eleven years; some of his grandchildren after his wife's death alternately ruling his house, to which there was a great resort of all sorts of people, he being very generous, charitable, and free-hearted.
"In the year 1654 when General George Monk passed through Kintail with his army, they in their return carried away three hundred and sixty, but not the whole of Mr Farquhar's cows, for which after the restoration of King Charles the II., he was advised to put in his claim; but his love of the change of affairs made him decline it, and at his death he had as many cows as them, and might have had as many more were it not that they were constantly slaughtered for the use of the family when he had his grandchildren and their bairns about him. Being at last full of days, and having seen his children that came of age settled after he had lived fifty-four years in the Ministry, ten of which at Garloch, he departed this life in the year 1662, and the eighty-second of his age. He was buried with his predecessors at Kilduich in Kintail."
B.
EXTRACT from "A Tour in Scotland and Voyage to the Hebrides, 1772, by Thomas Pennant." Dedication dated at Downing, March 1, 1774.
Mr Pennant accomplished most of his tour in the Western Highlands and Islands by means of a sailing vessel. Landing at Dundonnel at the head of Little Loch Broom, on 30th July 1772, in tempestuous weather, he was hospitably entertained by Kenneth Mackenzie, Esq. of Dundonnel. He made this note here:--"Dundonnel,--Determine to go by land to visit Loch Maree, a great lake to the south; and direct Mr Thompson to sail and wait for us at Gairloch."
After a rough ride, occupying most of the day, and which seems to have been by way of Achneigie, thence by Glen na Muic and the heights of Kenlochewe to the lower end of Glen Dochartie (a route still indicated by a mountain track), he writes as follows (vol. ii., page 328) under date of 1st August 1772:--
"Black morassy heaths succeed, named Gliann-dochartai. Dine on the side of a rill at the bottom, on plentiful fare provided by our kind host, whose son Mr Mackenzie, and another gentleman of the name, kindly undertook the charge of us to the next stage. Ride through a narrow strath called Kin-loch-ewe, where we first saw the signs of houses and a little cultivation since morning. This terminates in a meadowy plain, closed at the end with Loch-Maree: the night proved wet and tempestuous; we therefore determined to defer the voyage till next day; and to shelter ourselves in a whisky house, the inn of the place. Mr Mackenzie complimented Mr Lightfoot and me with the bedstead, well covered with a warm litter of heath: we lay in our cloaths, wrapped ourselves in plaids and enjoyed a good repose. Our friends did not lose their sleep; but great was our surprize to see them form their bed of wet hay, or rather grass collected from the fields; they flung a plaid over it, undressed, and lay most comfortably, without injury, in what, in a little time, must have become an errant hot bed: so blest with hardy constitutions are even the gentlemen of this country!
"At seven in the morning (Aug. 2) take a six-oared boat, at the east end of Loch Maree, keep on the north shore beneath steep rocks, mostly filled with pines waving over our heads. Observe on the shore a young man of good appearance, hailing the boat in the _erse_ language. I demanded what he wanted; was informed, a place in the boat. As it was entirely filled, was obliged to refuse his request. He follows us for two miles through every difficulty, and by his voice and gestures threatened revenge. At length a rower thought fit to acquaint us, that he was owner of the boat, and only wanted admission in lieu of one of them. The boat was ordered to shore, and the master taken in with proper apologies and attempts to sooth him for his hard treatment. Instead of insulting us with abuse as a _Charon_ of _South Britain_ would have done, he instantly composed himself, and told us through an interpreter, that he felt great pride in finding that his conduct gained any degree of approbation.
"Continue our course. The lake, which at the beginning was only half a mile broad, now, nearly half its length, widens into a great bay, bending towards the south, about four miles in breadth, filled with little isles, too much clustered and indistinct. Land on that called Inch-maree, the favoured isle of the saint, the patron of all the coast from Applecross to Loch-broom. The shores are neat and gravelly; the whole surface covered thickly with a beautiful grove of oak, ash, willow, wicken, birch, fir, hazel, and enormous hollies. In the midst is a circular dike of stones, with a regular narrow entrance; the inner part has been used for ages as a burial-place, and is still in use. I suspect the dike to have been originally _Druidical_, and that the ancient superstition of _Paganism_ had been taken up by the saint as the readiest method of making a conquest over the minds of the inhabitants. A stump of a tree is shewn as an altar, probably the memorial of one of stone; but the curiosity of the place is the well of the saint; of power unspeakable in cases of lunacy. The patient is brought into the sacred island, is made to kneel before the altar, where his attendants leave an offering in money; he is then brought to the well, and sips some of the holy water: a second offering is made; that done, he is thrice dipped in the lake; and the same operation is repeated every day for some weeks: and it often happens, by natural causes, the patient receives relief, of which the saint receives the credit. I must add that the visitants draw from the state of the well an omen of the disposition of St _Maree_; if his well is full, they suppose he will be propitious; if not, they proceed in their operations with fears and doubts; but let the event be what it will, he is held in high esteem; the common oath of the country is by his name; if a traveller passes by any of his resting-places, they never neglect to leave an offering; but the saint is so moderate as not to put him to any expense, a stone, a stick, a bit of rag contents him.
"This is the most beautiful of the isles; the others have only a few trees sprinkled over their surface.
"About a mile farther the lake again contracts. Pass beneath a high rock, formed of short precipices, with shelves between, filled with multitudes of self-sown pines, making a most beautiful appearance.
"The south of the water is bounded with mountains adorned with birch woods, mixed with a few pines: a military road runs along its length. The mountains are not very high, but open in many parts to give a view of others, whose naked and broken tops shooting into sharp crags, strangely diversify the scene, and form a noble termination.
"Towards the bottom of the lake is a headland, finely wooded to the very summit. Here the water suddenly narrows to the breadth of a hundred yards, and continues so for nearly a mile, the banks cloathed with trees, and often bending into little semilunar bays to the very extremity; from whence its waters, after the course of a mile, a continual _Rapide_, discharge into a deep and darksome hole, called Pool-ewe, which opens into the large bay of Loch-Ewe.
"The lake we had left is eighteen miles long; the waters are said to be specifically lighter than most others, and very rarely frozen; the depth is various, in some places sixty fathoms; but the bottom is very uneven; if ten feet of water were drained away, the whole would appear a chain of little lakes.
"The fish are salmon, char, and trout; of the last is a species weighing thirty pounds.
"Land; are received by the Rev. Mr Dounie, minister of Gairloch, whom we attend to church, and hear a very edifying plain comment on a portion of Scripture. He takes us home with him, and by his hospitality makes us experience the difference between the lodgings of the two nights.
"Aug. 3. Take a view of the environs: visit the mouth of the river, where the salmon fishery supplies the tenant with three or four lasts of fish annually. On the bank are the remains of a very antient iron furnace. Mr Dounie has seen the back of a grate, marked 'S. G. Hay,' or Sir George Hay, who was head of a company here in the time of the Queen Regent; and is supposed to have chose this remote place for the sake of quiet in those turbulent times.
"Potatoes are raised here on the very peat-moors, without any other drains than the trenches between the beds. The potatoes are kiln-dried for preservation.
"It is to be hoped that a town will form itself here, as it is the station of a Government-packet, that sails regularly from hence to _Stornoway_, in _Lewis_, a place now growing considerable, by the encouragement of Lord Seaforth, the proprietor. This is a spot of much concourse; for here terminates the military road, which crosses from the East to the West sea, commencing at _Inverness_, and passing by _Fair-burn_ and _Strath-braan_ to this place. Yet I believe the best inn on the last thirty miles is that of Mr Roderick Mac-donald, our landlord the last night but one.
"Ride about six miles South, and reach Gair-loch; consisting of a few scattered houses, on a fine bay of the same name. Breakfast at _Flowerdale_; a good house, beautifully seated between hills finely wooded. This is the seat of Sir _Hector Mackenzie_, whose ancestor received a writ of fire and sword against the antient rebellious owners; he succeeded in his commission, and received their lands for his pains.
"The parish of Gair-loch is very extensive, and the number of inhabitants evidently encrease, owing to the simple method of life, and the conveniency they have of drawing a support from the fishery. If a young man is possessed of a herring-net, a hand-line, and three or four cows, he immediately thinks himself able to support a family, and marries. The present number of souls are about two thousand eight hundred.
"Herrings offer themselves in shoals from _June_ to _January_; cod-fish abound on the great sandbank, one corner of which reaches to this bay, and is supposed to extend as far as Cape Wrath; and South, as low as _Rona_, off Skie; with various branches, all swarming with cod and ling. The fishery is carried on with long-lines, begins in _February_, and ends in _April_. The annual capture is uncertain, from five to twenty-seven thousand. The natives at present labor under some oppressions, which might be easily removed, to the great advancement of this commerce. At present the fish are sold to some merchants from _Campbeltown_, who contract for them at two-pence farthing a-piece, after being cured and dried in the sun. The merchants take only those that measure eighteen inches from the gills to the setting on of the tail; and oblige the people to let them have two for one of all that are beneath that length. The fish are sent to _Bilboa_; ling has also been carried there, but was rejected by the Spaniards. This trade is far from being pushed to its full extent; is monopolised, and the poor fishers obliged to sell their fish at half the price to those who sell it to the merchants.
"The want of a town is very sensibly felt in all those parts; there is no one commodity, no one article of life, or implement of fishery, but what is gotten with difficulty, and at a great price, brought from a distance by those who are to make advantage from the necessities of the people. It is much to be lamented that after the example of the Earl of _Seaforth_, they do not collect a number of inhabitants by feuing their lands, or granting leases for a length of years for building; but still so much of the spirit of the chieftain remains, that they dread giving an independency to their people; a false policy! as it would enrich both parties; and make the landlord more respectable, as master of a set of decent tenants, than of thousands of bare-footed half-starved vassals. At present adventurers from distant parts take the employ from the natives; a town would create a market; a market would soon occasion a concourse of shipping, who would then arrive with a certainty of a cargo ready taken for them; and the mutual wants of stranger and natives would be supplied at an easy rate.
"By example of a gentleman or two, some few improvements in farming appear. Lime is burnt; sea tang used as manure; and shell sand imported by such who can afford the freight. But the best trade at present is cattle: about five hundred are annually sold out of this parish, from the price of one pound seven to two pounds five a-piece. About eighty horses, at three pounds each, and a hundred and fifty sheep, at three pounds per score. The cattle are blooded at spring and fall: the blood is preserved to be eaten cold.
"We found our vessel safely arrived at anchor with many others, under the shelter of a little isle, on the south side of the bay. Weigh, and get under sail with a good breeze."
C.
Notes on the Parish of Gairloch, from the "Old Statistical Account," being an Extract from "The Statistical Account of Scotland, drawn up from the Communications of the Ministers of the different parishes, by Sir John Sinclair, Bart.," vol. iii., page 89, printed in 1792.
"PARISH OF GAIRLOCH.
"BY THE REV. MR DANIEL M'INTOSH.
"_Name, Extent, &c._--This parish had its name originally from a very small loch, near the church and the house of Flowerdale, and so close by the shore that the sea at high tides covers it. The etymology of it is abundantly clear, and signifies in the Gaelic language a short contracted loch.
"The parish of Gairloch is situated in the county of Ross, in the presbytery of Lochcarron, and synod of Glenelg. Its length is no less than thirty-two miles English, and its breadth about eighteen.
"_Soil._--This country resembles many other parts of the Highlands of Scotland. The valleys are surrounded with hills, that afford good pasture to different kinds of cattle. As the parish abounds in hills and mossy ground, the arable parts of it are consequently but of a small extent. When the season is favourable, the crops are by no means bad, yet they scarcely serve the inhabitants above seven or eight months. The potatoes the farmers plant, and the fish they catch, contribute much to their support. This country, and all the West coast, are supplied in the summer with meal by vessels that come from different ports at a distance, such as Caithness, Murray, Peterhead, Banff, Aberdeen, Greenock, &c., and, at an average, sell the boll, consisting of eight stones, at 16s., and, when provisions are high, at 18s. and upwards.
"_Rivers and Antiquities._--There are many rivers in this parish, but no bridges nor passage but by horses; and therefore, when these rivers overflow their banks, which often happens in the winter and spring seasons, and sometimes even in summer, travellers are detained, and are exposed to delays and additional expences. There are two large rivers near the east end of this parish, which meet and run into one at Kenlochew, which, in the Earse language, imports the Head of the Loch-River. These two rivers empty themselves into Loch-Mari. This loch again is twelve computed miles in length, and more in some parts than a mile in breadth. There are twenty-four small islands in it, which are beautified with fir trees, and a variety of other kinds of wood; in one of these islands there is an antient burying-place, called Isleand-Mari, where the people on the north side of the loch still continue to bury their dead. There is a well in it of a salubrious quality, the water of which hath been found, for ages past, very serviceable to many diseased persons. The remains of a Druidical temple is likewise to be seen in this small island.
"_Fish._--Gairloch has been for many ages famous for the cod-fishing. Sir Hector M'Kenzie of Gairloch, the present proprietor, sends to market annually, upon an average, betwixt 30,000 and 40,000 cod, exclusive of the number with which the country people serve themselves. Gairloch hath also, from time immemorial, been remarkable for the herring-fishing. The coast of this parish abounds in very safe harbours for vessels of all dimensions.
"_Agriculture._--Oats and barley are sown in this country. Some of the gentlemen sow a small quantity of pease, which, when the harvest is warm and dry, yield profitable returns; our time of sowing oats, black and white, is commonly from the middle of March to the end of April, within which period we also plant potatoes; we sow barley from the beginning of May to the 10th of June; our latest barley is seldom the worst part of the crop, when the summer proves warm and showery. Our harvest commences about the end of August, and the crop is gathered in about the 10th of October. Our crop frequently suffers much from shaking winds, attended with heavy cold rain, about the autumnal equinox.
"_Diseases._--No peculiar local distemper of any kind is prevalent in this parish. Fevers are frequent; sometimes they are of a favourable kind; at other times they continue long, and carry off great numbers. An infectious and putrid fever, early in winter last, made its way from the north over a long tract of different countries, and proved fatal to many.
"_Population._--There were in this parish, in the year 1774, of examinable persons about two thousand. And from that period to the present there is an increase of two hundred souls and upwards. In Dr Webster's report the number was two thousand and fifty. There are a few people in the parish at the age of eighty-six and eighty-seven. Two died lately who arrived at the age of an hundred years.
"_Character of the People._--They are in general sobre, regular, industrious, and pious. They have always been remarked and esteemed for their civility and hospitality to strangers.
"_School._--In the great extent of this parish, as hath been already observed, there is no school but the parochial, by which means the rising generation suffer much and are wholly neglected, having no access to the benefit of instruction. There are only two catechists, who have their appointments partly in the skirts of this and partly of the two neighbouring parishes.
"_Church._--All the people of every denomination are of the Established Church; there are no Dissenters, Seceders, nor any other kind of sect whatever in the parish. The church of this parish has stood more than a century, but has for some years past been in a ruinous situation, and was therefore taken down this summer, and a new elegant church is building. There are three places of public worship in the parish, exclusive of the church, viz., Kenlochew, Chapel of Sand, and the croft of Jolly. The church and manse are at the distance of six English miles from each other. The manse is very near the shore, on the north of the church, and supposed to be in the centre of the parish. The value of the living, exclusive of the glebe, and including the expence allowed for communion elements, is only £58, 6s. 9½d. There are five heritors in the parish, viz., Sir Hector M'Kenzie of Gairloch, Baronet, John M'Kenzie of Gruinord, John M'Kenzie of Letterew, Roderick M'Kenzie of Kernsary, and Colonel M'Kenzie of Coul, who is at present in the East Indies; all the rest reside in the parish.
"_Rent._--The land-rent cannot be ascertained with accuracy. It may probably be about £1700 per annum.
"_Poor._--The number of the poor in this as well as in many other Highland parishes is daily increasing. There are eighty-four upon the kirk-session roll, besides some other indigent persons, who, though not inrolled, yet are considered as objects of sympathy. They have the annual collections made in the church, with the interest of £20, distributed among them. The collections, upon an average, are about £6, 7s.
"_Language._--The Gaelic is the prevailing language in this as well as in several other corners of the West coast, where the people have no opportunity of learning English."
D.
Extracts from "The Highlands and Western Isles of Scotland, founded on a series of annual journeys between the years 1811 and 1821," by John MacCulloch, M.D., F.R.S., L.S.G.S., &c., vol. ii., page 280 _et seq._:--
"There is nothing worthy of notice between Loch Torridon and Gairloch; but this inlet possesses considerable beauty in various parts, and more particularly in that angle occupied by Flowerdale. The very unsuspected ornament of this place, contrasted also as it is with all the surrounding wildness, almost carries us back to the most polished regions of Perthshire. It is an interesting spot, independently of its beauty, as proving that nothing is wanting but taste and industry to render a thousand places on the west coast rivals to the most ornamental parts of the interior of Scotland, qualities which may exist in many persons besides Sir Hector Mackenzie, but which are wasted if the proprietors do not reside on their estates. Had there been as many Sir Hector Mackenzies as there are spots equal in capacity to Gairloch, the west coast of Scotland might have challenged any equal space in the world for judicious ornament, embellishing and improving Nature, as it now may for natural advantages.
"Loch Ewe is a deep and not a very wide inlet. The form of the land on each side is tame, and it is only at the extremity where the high mountains of the interior come into view that the outline has any character. But the view of Pol Ewe, from the anchorage, is picturesque; as the finely characterised mountains which surround Loch Maree form its conspicuous features. The rocky hills that surround this rude and strange valley are singularly wild. From Loch Maree, scarcely a mile distant from the sea-shore, the Ewe, a broad river, runs with a rapid course to the sea. Issuing from the lake, it first meanders gently through low grounds interspersed with wild groves of alder and birch and oak, enclosed by woody cliffs and irregular rough ground, which, on both hands, rise up the intricate skirts of the high mountains that bound the lake and the valley together. Shortly, however, it is seen roaring through a steep and stony channel, deep below the surrounding land, which is now a rude heathy moor, with occasional patches of corn near the margin of the water. Hence, passing a salmon weir, the river forms a considerable cascade, falling into a dark rocky pool; immediately after which it joins the sea.
"The peculiar wildness of this valley is rendered more impressive by the crowded population, for which, considering its aspect, it is remarkable. We think little, in this country, of deserted and solitary rudeness and barrenness, since they are of such daily and incessant recurrence; but when inhabited they impress us forcibly, and apparently from an unacknowledged sympathy with those whose lot it is to reside in them. Besides the small tenants who occupy the numerous black houses about this waste, and whose peat stacks are even more conspicuous than their dwellings, there is here a large farm house, a slated inn, which is also the post-office, and a salmon fishery. From the post-office there is a weekly packet to Stornoway, so that Pol Ewe reminds us of that world, of which, in a few weeks cruising about these seas, we are very apt to lose sight. The river is noted, both for the abundance and the goodness of its salmon, and is rented by Berwick fishermen; the produce, here and elsewhere on this coast, being carried across the country on horseback to the Murray Frith to be boiled for the London market, an arrangement which does not appear the best that could be devised, as it is a journey of two days. The river abounds equally in trout, as does also Loch Maree; so that, for brothers of the angle as well as for trading Berwickers, Pol Ewe is one of the most enticing places on the west coast.
"A fortunate discovery which I made of some Allium ursinum (wild garlick) gave zest for a week to our hashed mutton and our insipid broth. The sea-beet and the Crambe maritima served for ordinary greens, and sorrel was always at hand for a fricandeau a l'oseille. The Cotyledon luteum, very unexpectedly, proved to be a good substitute for spinach; but, best of all, and most abundant, were the Chenopodia, common on all these shores, which ensured us a never-failing supply.
"Loch Maree lies so completely out of the road, and so far beyond the courage, of ordinary travellers, that, except by Pennant, I believe it has never been visited. The length is about fourteen miles, and the greatest breadth three, though in most parts it scarcely exceeds one; while, being bounded by high mountains, and having a very varied and irregular outline, its shores present a good deal of interesting scenery; the entire lake itself being displayed from many different points and under a great variety of aspects, so as to produce some of the finest specimens of this class of landscape in the Highlands. In point of style, it ranks rather more nearly with Loch Lomond than with any other of the southern lakes, though still very far inferior.
"The most accessible and the finest general views may be obtained from the rocky hills that bound the exit of the river. The mountain outline, which is grand and various, presents a greater diversity of form and character than any of the Scottish lakes; but Ben Lair[11] is always the principal feature, graceful, solid, and broad. The middle ground is a great source of variety; splendid and wild, an intermixture of rock and wood, more easily compared with some parts of Loch Cateran than with any other well-known scenery, yet still different. The winding and wooded course of the Ewe adds much to its liveliness, the bright reaches glittering as they emerge from among the trees and rocks through which the river forces its way.
"The first day of creation was not more beautiful. July, the June of this country, was in its full glory. A few thin silvery clouds rested on the clear blue sky, and the sun shed a flood of light over the bright surface of the lake, which reflected every rock and every tree that hung over the glassy surface. Even the line of the shore was undistinguishable, except when the casual passage of a gentle air, descending from the hills, ruffled for a moment the bright expanse; when the gay vision vanished, till again, as the breeze passed off across the water, it collected its scattered fragments, reappearing in all its former brilliancy, and rivalling its original. Even the dark firs assumed a look of spring, and the barren and cold grey cliffs of Ben Lair seemed to rejoice in the bright sunshine. While the warm brown and glowing purple of the heath, now in full blossom, tinged the faces of the nearer hills with that richness of colour known only to these mountainous regions, every summit, as it retired, assumed a purpler and a bluer tone, till the last peaks emulated the misty azure of the sky into which they melted, as if they had belonged rather to the fields of air than to the earth below.
"No one can know the full value of summer who has not known it in a land of mountains; no one can feel, who has not felt it among the hills, the joy with which the sun can fill the mind, as it fills the atmosphere; the sense of beauty, of bounding, exuberant happiness in which it wraps our very existence as it does the landscape; giving to every feature, to the wildest mountain summit and the gloomiest valley, to the barest rock and the lowliest flower, charms to which all the glories of the richest cultivated country are insipid and tame.
"The northern margin of Loch Maree presents a great variety of close shore scenery, consisting of rocky and wooded bays and creeks rising into noble overhanging cliffs and mountains; and it displays also the finest general views of the lake. The effect of Sleagach, seen at once from its base to its summit, is perhaps more striking than that of any mountain in Scotland. Where the skirts of Ben Lair descend steep into the water, the scenes are often peculiarly original as well as grand. In one place[12] in particular, the remains of a fir forest, in a situation almost incredible, produce a style of landscape that might be expected in the Alps, but not among the more confined scope and tamer arrangements of Scottish mountains. Immediately from the water's edge, a lofty range of grey cliffs rises to a great height, so steep as almost to seem perpendicular, but varied by fissures and by projections covered with grass and wild plants. Wherever it is possible for a tree to take root, there firs of ancient and noble growth, and of the most wild and beautiful forms, are seen rising above each other, so that the top of the one often covers the root of the succeeding, or else thrown out horizontally in various fantastic and picturesque modes. Now and then some one more wild and strange than the others, or some shivered trunk or fallen tree, serves to vary the aspect of this strange forest, marking also the lapse of ages and the force of the winter storms which they so long have braved.
"The eastern extremity of the lake becomes insipid, terminating in a range of meadows, through which the stream winds its sluggish way. But beyond, all is rude and savage, displaying a chaos of wild mountains and a succession of white precipices and spiry snow-white crags, bright, cold, and dreary, and giving a character of polar sterility to the landscape, as if no living being, not even vegetable life, could here find home or refuge. Evening arrived as we reached this end of the lake, for not a breeze had blown to aid us. The long shadows of the mountains were now stretching across the water, and a vast and broad body of shade on the western hills gave a repose to the scene, so deep and so solemn, that even the liquid sound which followed the dip of the oars seemed an intrusion on the universal hush of nature. No living object was seen or heard, and even the occasional passage of the bee that winged its evening way home to its mountain abode in the heath, disturbed a silence that appeared never before to have been interrupted. The last crimson at length vanished from the sharp rocky summits of the eastern hills, and all became alike wrapped in one gentle hue of tranquil grey. But it was the summer twilight of a northern July, and night was now but one long and lovely evening.
"It was with some difficulty that we explored our nocturnal way through the labyrinth of islands in the centre of this lake; as they are little raised above the water, and covered with scattered firs and with thickets of birch, alder, and holly, while they are separated by narrow and tortuous channels. The features of the whole are so exactly alike that no part can be distinguished from another. Inch Maree has been dedicated to a saint of that name, and it still contains a burial-place, chosen, it is said, like all those which are found in islands, to prevent depredations from the wolves of ancient days. This theory, however, seems disputable, because the extirpation of this animal is an event of considerable antiquity, and many of these burial-grounds seem of comparatively modern times. Here also there was a sacred well, in which, as in St. Fillan's, lunatics were dipped, with the usual offerings of money; but the well remains, and the practice has passed away. Although now midnight, the heat was so great as to be almost oppressive, exceeding seventy degrees, an occurrence not very uncommon in these Highland valleys in summer. But the hot breeze served to fill our sails, and, by midnight, had brought us back to the river; nor were we sorry to find, some time after, on board of our vessel, the dinner which we had not calculated on deferring to the morning of a following day."
E.
EXTRACTS from the "New Statistical Account of Scotland."
"PARISH OF GAIRLOCH.
"PRESBYTERY OF LOCHCARRON, SYNOD OF GLENELG."
_Drawn up by the_ Rev. DONALD M'RAE, Minister of Poolewe, and dated September 1836.
"I.--TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY.
"_Name._--The name of the parish is compounded of gearr--short, and loch. The parish takes its name from a salt water loch of the same name. At the end of this loch, the natives point out a hollow spot of ground which they choose to denominate 'the Gairloch' by way of distinction, as they allege that the parish takes its name from it; but it evidently derives its name from the salt water loch, or rather bay, for, comparing it with most of the other salt water lochs on the west coast, it scarcely deserves the name of loch.
"_Hydrography, &c._--Few parishes on the west coast can boast of more magnificent mountain scenery, as the traveller can testify who has sailed down the picturesque Lochmaree. The principal mountain in the range is Slioch, or Sliabhach; its elevation above the level of the sea cannot be less than three thousand feet. The traveller who, from the west end of Lochmaree, takes a view of the scenery before him, cannot fail to be struck with astonishment at the wild grandeur of the scene presented to his view; the much admired and far-famed Lochmaree, with its four-and-twenty wooded islands; the range of mountains, commencing on the right and left, and extending four miles beyond the east end, of Lochmaree; Lochmaree itself, eighteen miles long, appearing in the distance like an amphitheatre of nature's own workmanship, and presenting to the eye of the stranger an impenetrable barrier.
"_Hydrography._--Lochmaree, as already stated, is eighteen miles long, and one and a half mile broad at an average. The greater part of it is sixty fathoms deep, so that it has never been known to freeze during the most intense frosts. About the centre of the loch is an island called 'Island Maree,' on which is a burying-ground supposed to be dedicated to the Virgin Mary; hence the name of the island and of the loch. This is one conjecture; another is, that some of the Danish kings were buried in this island, and that the original name of it was 'Eilean nan Righ,' which came to be pronounced 'Eilean Maree.' The number of tombstones in the burying-place, with inscriptions and hieroglyphical figures which few now-a-days can satisfactorily decipher, gives a plausibility to this conjecture which is not easily got over. As it is a doubtful subject, and likely to remain so, a third conjecture may be ventured. There lived, a great many years ago, in this part of the Highlands, a great and good man called 'Maree,' who had his principal residence on this same island; after his death his admirers prefixed Saint to his name. Many of his generous and benevolent deeds are, to this day, recounted by the people of this and the surrounding parishes.
"On the centre of this island is a deep well, consecrated by the said Saint Maree to the following purpose. To this same well are dragged, volens nolens, all who are insane in this or any of the surrounding parishes, and after they have been made to drink of it, these poor victims of superstitious cruelty are towed round the island after a boat, by their tender-hearted attendants. It is considered a hopeful sign if the well is full at the time of dragging the patient to the scene. In justice to the people of this parish it may be stated, that they have not such an unbounded belief in the healing virtues of the well, and the other parts of the transaction, as their most distant neighbours appear to entertain. The belief in such absurdities is daily losing ground in the Highlands; and there is little doubt that, in course of a few years more, the clouds of superstition that overhang the moral horizon of our Highlands will be dissipated by the better education of the peasantry.
"There is only one river worthy of particular notice in this parish, viz., the 'Ewe,' which issues from Lochmaree, and is only one mile long from its source to its confluence with the arm of the sea called 'Lochewe.' This beautiful stream abounds with salmon of the very best description. It is surpassed by no river on the west coast for angling; and hence it is, during the summer months, frequented by gentlemen from all parts of the kingdom for this healthy and delightful exercise. An English military gentleman killed one hundred salmon and grilse, in the course of a few weeks, during the summer of 1834; and I am credibly informed that the late proprietor, Sir Hector Mackenzie of Gairloch, Bart., frequently killed twenty salmon in one day. Besides Gairloch, Lochewe is the only other salt water loch in the parish. This loch, into which the waters of Lochmaree fall, is from eight to ten miles long. Near the mouth of it is a fertile and well cultivated island, called Isle Ewe. Much attention and expense were bestowed upon the improvement of this island by the present proprietor, Sir Francis Alexander M'Kenzie of Gairloch, Bart., before he came into the full possession of the Gairloch estate. The two principal headlands jutting out on each side of Lochewe, are Ru Rea on the south, and Green Stone Point on the north side.
"_Climate._--The climate is mild, although extremely rainy. This may be accounted for, partly by the mountainous character of the country, and partly by other causes. The prevailing winds are the west and south; and at whatever season of the year it blows from these quarters, we are almost certain of torrents of rain. Easterly winds invariably bring us dry weather, and hence they are welcome visitants, although they warn us to wear additional coverings. The easterly winds are more prevalent in the month of March and first half of April, than at any other season of the year. But there has been a marked change in the climate for some years back. Instead of the deep falls of snow, and the long-continued frosts that were wont to starve the black cattle, smother the sheep, and fertilize the soil in former years, we have now mild weather and very much rain. Notwithstanding the extreme wetness of the climate, and the people's frequent exposure in the open air, their principal employment being fishing, they are in general healthy, and of robust constitutions.
"_Geology and Mineralogy._--This and the neighbouring parish of Lochbroom afford numerous displays of interesting geological phenomena. Old red sandstone and quartz rock abound, but gneiss and its various subordinate formations may be considered the prevailing formation. Upwards of one hundred and fifty years ago, when the science of mineralogy was comparatively in its infancy in Scotland, and when the spirit of speculation and adventure did not move with such bold strides as in later times, a Sir James Kay sent several people to work at veins of iron ore, on the estate of Letterewe, along the north side of Lochmaree, in this parish. I understood they continued to work successfully for several years; but as wood was their sole fuel for conducting the operations, they were obliged to desist when the wood in the neighbourhood was exhausted. The ruins of one of the furnaces for working the ore are within a few hundred yards of the manse of Poolewe; and those of another are ten miles farther up, along the north side of Lochmaree. A spot is pointed out to the passer by, near the east end of Lochmaree, where they buried their dead. It is, to this day, called 'Cladh nam Sasganach,' the burying-ground of the Englishmen. Highlanders look upon all who do not speak the Gaelic language as Sasganaich, or Englishmen. At a later period, some other individual, or perhaps the same, thought he had discovered a vein of silver ore, in another place along the north side of Lochmaree; but after digging to a considerable depth, the undertaking was abandoned, without yielding a remunerating return to the spirited adventurer.
"II.--CIVIL HISTORY.
"_Eminent Men._--This parish has been as fortunate as most of its neighbours in being the birth-place and residence of eminent characters; but the only person whom I shall at present mention, is William Ross, the celebrated Gaelic bard. This individual was born in the parish of Strath, Isle of Skye, in the year 1762. After receiving as liberal an education as the school of Forres at that time could afford, he was appointed parochial schoolmaster of Gairloch, when about twenty-four years of age. In that situation he continued four years. He died in his twenty-eighth year; and his remains are deposited in the churchyard of Gairloch. 'As a writer of Gaelic songs' (to quote from a short memoir prefixed to a collection of his songs, published four years ago), 'William Ross is entitled to the highest praise. In the greater number of his lyrics, the bard leads us along with him, and imparts to us so much of his own tenderness, feeling, and enthusiasm, that our thoughts expand and kindle with his sentiments.'
"_Landowners._--The landowners of the parish are Sir Francis Alexander M'Kenzie of Gairloch, Bart.; Sir George Stewart M'Kenzie of Coul, Bart.; Duncan Davidson, Esq. of Tulloch; James Alexander Stewart M'Kenzie, Esq. of Seaforth; and Hector M'Kenzie, Esq. of Letterewe.
"_Parochial Registers._--There were no parochial registers kept in the parish previous to the year 1802; since that period they have been regularly kept.
"III.--POPULATION.
"_Character of the People._--The ancient population of this parish, as far back as the oldest living inhabitants can remember, was comparatively rude and uncultivated. There are now living in the parish some who remember the time when there was only one or at most two Bibles in the parish, besides the minister's. What, in such a state of things, could be expected of the manners of the inhabitants? Yet these same individuals will unhesitatingly affirm, that people were more generous and more noble-minded at that period, than they are now.
Population in 1801, 1437 " 1811, 2755 " 1821, 4518 " 1831, 4445
The causes of the increase are various, and too numerous to be mentioned here. Among these, however, may be mentioned the habit of early marriage, and the system of letting the land in lots. The lot of lands this year in the possession of one family may, before twelve months are over, be divided into three equal portions,--in other words, three distinct families live upon the produce of it.
The yearly average of births for the last seven years, 100 " of marriages for do. 40 No register of deaths kept in the parish. The average number of persons under fifteen years of age, 1693 " " betwixt fifteen and thirty 1128 " " " thirty and fifty, 927 " " " fifty and seventy, 602 " " upwards of seventy, 95
The number of proprietors of land of the yearly value of £50 and upwards, 5 The number of bachelors upwards of fifty years of age, 16 " of widowers do. do. 18 " of unmarried women upwards of forty-five years of age, 76 " of families, 795 " of inhabited houses, 791 " of houses now building, 6
There are only four blind individuals within the bounds of this parish; ten fatuous persons; and six deaf and dumb; four of the latter belong to one family, and two to another.
"_Language, &c._--The language generally spoken is the Gaelic. I am not aware that it has lost ground within the last forty years. Some young men, indeed, who have received a smattering of education, consider they are doing great service to the Gaelic by interspersing their conversation with English words, and giving them a Gaelic termination and accent. These corrupters of both languages, with more pride than good taste, now and then introduce words of bad English or of bad Scotch, which they have learned from the Newhaven or Buckie fishermen, whom they meet with on the coast of Caithness during the fishing season. The Gaelic, however, is still spoken in as great purity by the inhabitants in general as it was forty years ago.
"The houses of the people in general have but one outer door, and as they and their cattle go in by that one entrance,--the bipeds to take possession of one end of the house, and the quadrupeds of the other,--it cannot be expected that a habitation common to man and beast can be particularly clean. Some of the people, indeed, are now getting into the way of building byres for their cattle, contiguous to their dwelling-houses; and it is acknowledged even by the most indolent that a great improvement is thus effected. It is hoped that the practice may soon become more general. When the young people go to kirk or market, few appear more 'trig or clean;' and a stranger would hardly be persuaded that some of them lived in such miserable hovels. When a girl dresses in her best attire, her very habiliments, in some instances, would be sufficient to purchase a better dwelling-house than that from which she has just issued.
"The people are in general contented with their situation and circumstances. If they have a lot of lands, grass for two or three cows, and fishing materials, they seldom have any further objects of ambition. Owing to the means of education not being commensurate with the increase of population, the intellectual character of the people does not keep pace with their moral and religious character. They are naturally a shrewd, sensible, steady sort of people. With a few exceptions, they are of good moral character. They seldom quarrel among each other; and when they have any differences, these are generally settled by the proprietors or factors. A law-suit is seldom heard of from this parish.
"When I advert to their religious character, I am constrained to acknowledge my fear that their knowledge of the truths of our holy religion is more of the head than the heart. The form of godliness is not so much wanting as its power. I do not mean, however, that in this respect the people of this parish are not on a parity with those of the neighbourhood.
"Smuggling was carried on to a great extent in this parish some years ago, but is now very much on the decrease; indeed while there is a vestige of such a demoralizing practice remaining there can be but slender hopes of moral improvement. It may be mentioned to the honour of one of the heritors, that he has erected a licensed distillery, for the sole purpose of giving a death-blow to the smuggling on his estate.
"IV.--INDUSTRY.
"_Agriculture._--The number of families employed in agriculture, including those who employ servants, is 556; male servants upwards of twenty years of age, 86; female servants of all ages, 141. Number of acres under wood, 5000. The woods are generally kept in good condition, by thinning, pruning, &c.
"_Rent of Land._--Average rent of arable land is from 10s to £1 per acre; rent of grazing a cow or ox for a year, from £1 to £2; rent of pasturing a ewe or sheep for a year, from 1s 6d to 2s 6d.
"_Wages._--Farm servants receive from £5 to £8 per annum for wages, exclusive of their victuals; masons receive from 2s 6d to 3s, carpenters from 2s to 2s 6d, blacksmiths 3s, weavers from 1s 6d to 2s, per day, all including victuals.
"_Fisheries._--The various kinds of fisheries carried on in this parish are salmon fishing, cod and ling fishing, and herring fishing. The salmon fishings are let at £150 per annum. Salmon fishing is carried on by cruives, stell-nets, bag-nets, and stake-nets. Cod and ling are taken by long lines and the hand-line; and herring by the common mode of meshed nets.
"_Navigation._--There are four vessels belonging to the several ports in the parish, averaging about thirty-five tons burthen each.
"V.--PAROCHIAL ECONOMY.
"_Means of Communication._--This parish is extremely ill supplied with the means of communication, owing to the want of roads. We have one post-office, situated at Poolewe.
"_Ecclesiastical State._--The parish church is as conveniently situated as it could well be, considering the extent of the parish; its distance from the eastern extremity of the parish is twenty-eight miles, from the southern fifteen miles, from the western twelve miles, and from the northern extremity twenty miles. The church was built in the year 1791, and got a thorough repair in 1834. The church affords accommodation for five hundred sitters only. The manse was built in the year 1805; but a considerable addition was built to it in the year 1823. The glebe is worth about £30 per annum; the amount of the stipend is £240. There is one Government church in the parish; it is situated at Poolewe, six miles to the north of the parish church, and fourteen from the northern extremity of the parish. It is now erected into a new and separate parish _quoad sacra_, called the Parish of Poolewe. We have one catechist employed by the Committee for managing His Majesty's Royal Bounty, and another paid by contributions from the parishioners. There is not a single Dissenter within the bounds of the parish. The average number of communicants at the parish church and Government church is 360.
"_Education._--The total number of schools in the parish is nine; the parochial school is one of that number; all the rest are supported by different religious societies. The branches of instruction taught at the parochial school are Greek, Latin, mathematics, arithmetic, writing and English, and Gaelic reading. The branches taught at the Society schools are arithmetic, writing, English and Gaelic reading. The salary in the parochial school is £30 sterling, and £4 are obtained from school fees; at the Society Schools the salaries are from £5 to £25 sterling. Scarcely any school fees can be calculated upon, owing to the poverty of the people. From six to eight schools are still required in the parish; and some of the schools now in operation ought to be put on a more permanent and efficient footing. Not more than one in every ten of the whole population is able to read and write in English. In 1833, 1773 persons above six years of age could not read either in the Gaelic or English languages.
"_Poor._--The number of poor receiving parochial aid in the parish is about one hundred, each receiving from 2s 6d to 6s per annum. The annual amount for their relief is about £16, principally arising from church door collections.
"_Inns._--There are five licensed inns in the parish. Their effects are most destructive to the morals of the people. This is evident from the fact, that those who live in the close neighbourhood of these houses are in general given to tippling and idleness, while those who have not such a temptation at their doors are sober industrious people.
"_Fuel._--Peat is the only kind of fuel used by the people; it is procured in the mosses contiguous to their dwelling-houses, at an expense of from £1 to £2 for a family, in the year.
"_September, 1836._
F.
EXTRACTS from the Records of the Presbytery of Dingwall relating to the Parish of Gairloch.
I.--MINUTES REFERRING TO THE INACCESSIBILITY OF GAIRLOCH.
AT KILMORACK, _8th August 1649_.
"The Brethren tacking to their consideration the expediencie of visiting the Hiland Kirks and the ordinance made thereanent formerly, appoynts to tacke journey (God willing) upon Monday nixt, and to visit the Kirk of Kintaill upon the Wednesday, the Kirk of Lochalsh upon the Thursday, and the Kirk of Lochcarrin upon the Fryday immediately following; and ordaines Mr Dod. McRae to advertise them conforme, and to writt to Mr Alexr. McKenzie, minister of Lochcarrin, requiring him in the Presbyteries name to advertise Mr Rorie McKenzie at Garloch and Mr Dod. Ross at Lochbroome to meete with them at Lochcarrin the said Fryday for appoynting dyats for visiting their Kirks."
AT LOCHCARRON, _17th August 1649_.
"The visitation of Gairloch and Lochbruime continewed [postponed] by the way not rydable and inabilitie of brethren to goe afoote."
AT DINGWALL, _14th August 1650_.
"The Brethren considering the condition of the Kirks of Lochbroom and Gairloch and the expediency of visiting them (not being visited the last yeir with the rest), appoynts all the brethren to meete at Lochbroome for visiting the kirk thereof, the 10. day of Septr. next, and at Gerloch the Fryday thereafter."
AT DINGWALL, _5th June 1672_.
"No report from the Hyland Ministers except from Mr Rorie Mc Kenzie of Gairloch, who wrott a letter off excuse which was not judged relevant at that tyme, bot is continewed till his coming, and another letter from Mr Murdoch Mc Kenzie, who declared he could not meet for fear of caption," _i.e._ arrest.
AT DINGWALL, _10th July 1672_.
"The Presbytery considering that though the Ministers off the Highlands was reannexed to the Presbytery of Dingwall by appointment and ordinance of the Bishop and Synod, and that now they had written to them and acquainted them to meet with them two severall diets, and yet none of them came:--They appoynt and ordaine that they be the third tyme written to, to come (as they will be answerable to the Bishop and Synod)."
AT DINGWALL, _4th September 1683_.
"No exercise in regard Mr Jon. Mc Kenzie, Minister at Lochbroom, who should have exercised, and the rest of the brethren of the Highlands were annexed to the Presbytery of Chanonry." [_Note._--The Highland churches were the west coast parishes, including Gairloch. There are other minutes showing the irregular attendance of the Highland ministers, and making continual complaints against them on account of it.]
II.--MINUTES RELATING TO THE WARS OF MONTROSE AGAINST THE COVENANT.
AT DINGWALL, _8th January 1650_.
"Received two letters from the paroch of Gerloch, one from Mr Rorie Mc Kenzie, Minister yr [there], importing that he had made intimation to the Lard of Gerloch to compeir before the Presbyterie this day, but withall testifieing that he was very infirme and unable to come; and the other letter was from Gerloch himselfe importing the same and withall that he would, health serving, be heir the nixt day" [_i.e._ at the next meeting]. [_Note._--This Laird of Gairloch was Kenneth Mackenzie, the sixth laird; he was a "malignant," _i.e._ on the side of the Marquis of Montrose, called in the following minutes James Grahame, without his title.]
AT DINGWALL, _22d January 1650_.
"Compeired Kenneth Mc Kenyie of Gerloch, confessed his accession to Ja: Grahames rebellion and to the late rebellion in the North, professing his griefe for the same and desyreing to be received to the covenant and satisfaction; who is continewed till Furder tryall, and is ordayned to be heir the next day."
"Compeired Kenneth Mc Kenyie there who confest his accession to the late insurrection in the North, who is remitted to the Session of Gerloch to be furder tryed and received according to the maner prescryved in the act of Classes." [The Act of Classes specified the punishment to be inflicted on malignants.]
AT DINGWALL, _4th February 1650_.
"Kenneth Mc Kenyie of Gerloch found accessorie to Ja. Grahames rebellion and the late insurrection in the north. [At the same meeting Kenneth Mc Kenzie of Assint, near Dingwall, Rorie Mc Kenzie of Davachmaluag, Kenneth Mc Kenzie of Scatwell, and Rorie Mc Kenzie of Fairburn, were also found guilty.] Therefore the brethren considering the foresaid persones severall guiltes, and that all of them were eminentlie active in the late rebellion in the north, being urgers and seducers thereto, plotters and pryme promovers thereoff, doe therefore ordayne them to repaire forthwith to the Commission of the General Assemblie sitting at Edinburgh in this present month of Febry. to make satisfaction as there they shall be appoynted, with certification if they faile to be immediately processed."
AT DINGWALL, _19th February 1650_.
"That day was presented a supplication by Kenneth Mc Kenyie of Gerloch and Kenneth Mc Kenyie of Assint, that by the lawes of the kingdome, horning and captions is obtained against them for Seaforth's debts, so that personallie they cannot repair to Edinr. unbeine [without being] incarcerat; and therefore they petition the Presbytrie that their process be suspended till they obtayne the Commission of General Assemblie's answer anent their satisfaction. Wheruppon the Presbyterie assignes them this day six weeks to report their last diligence and bringing to the Presbyterie a satisfactorie answer from the Commissione, with certification if they fayle, to be thereafter immediatlie processed."
AT DINGWALL, _9th April 1650_.
"Received a letter from the Moderator of the Commission of the General Assemblie advysing the continewation of Assint and Gerloch's process till the next quarterly meeting in May."
AT DINGWALL, _16th April 1650_.
"The Brethren being informed of Ja: Grahms landing in Caithnes with forces and coming forward for furder supplie for carrieing on his former bloodie rebellious and perfidious courses, ... they doe therefore for preventing anie associations, considerations, or correspondence with the said excommunicated bloodie traytor or his forces, Ordayne all the brethren to make intimation out of their severall pulpits that anie who shall associat or correspond with the said Rebell or his forces shall be sentenced with excommunication summarlie."
AT DINGWALL, _28th May 1650_.
"The Brethren report that they kepied the Thanksgiving for the Victorie at Carbisdell obtained against James Grahame and other enemies to ye cause and people of God, his adherents."
AT DINGWALL, _16th July 1650_.
The minister of Gerloch ordained to send in a list of his "malignants," and to summon them to appear at next meeting.
III.--MINUTE SHEWING THE WIDE SCOPE OF THE PRESBYTERY'S JURISDICTION.
AT DINGWALL, _13th November 1655_.
"Duncan Mc Murchie vic Cuile in the Parochin of Garloch regraiting his wife to have deserted him being referred to the Presbyterie from the Sessione of Garloch compeired befoire the bretheren, and being asked in the cause of ye desertion, declaired ... was repudiated by his wyf, and deserted him and went to hir parents."
"Agnes Kempt in Garloch being maried uppon the said Duncan, compeired professing her unwillingness from the beginning to marie the said Duncan, bot moved and threatned by the superior of the land, acknowledging hirselff to be free from any carnall dealing with the said Duncan, ever to this tyme. Ordaineing some of the brethren, such as Mr George Monro, Mr Donald Macrae, with certain other frends met with the foresaids at Logie, to see what they can work upon these maried persons, to agree them, and advyse them in thair christiane dutie towards each other." [On 8th January 1656 it was proved to the Presbytery that Agnes Kemp (who was no doubt a daughter of one of the Letterewe ironworkers) never consented to the marriage but was forced into it by her laird.]
IV.--MINUTES RELATING TO SACRIFICES OF BULLS AND RESTORING THE SICK.
"AT APPILCROSS, _5 Septemb 1656_.
"Convened, Mr Jon Mc cra, Moderator; Mr Jon Monro, Mr Thomas Hogg, Mr Jon Mc Killican, Mr Donald Fraser, Mr Donald Mc cra, Mr Rorie Mc Kenzie, Mr Alexr Mc Kenzie, and Mr Donald Ross.
"The name of God Incalled. Inter alia, The Minister being inquired be his brethren of the maine enormities of the parochin of Lochcarrone and Appilcross, declaires some of his parochiners to be superstitious, especiallie in sacrificeing at certaine tymes at the Loch of Mourie, especiallie the men of Auchnaseallach; quho hes beine summoned, cited, bot not compeiring, execution is lawfullie given be the ... kirk officer of Loch Carron, quhose names ar as followes:--Donald Mcconillchile--Murdo Mc Ferqre vic conill eire--Wm Mc conil eire, Gillipadrick Mc rorie--Duncan Mc conill uayne vic conill biy--Alexr Mc finlay vcconill diy--Donald Mc eaine roy vic choinnich--Johne Mc conill reach--Murdo Mc eaine roy--Murdo Mc eaine voire vc eaine ghlaiss--Finlay Mc Gilliphadricke--Ordaines the kirk officer to chairge these againe to compeire at Dingwall the third Wednesday of October nixt--recommend that thaire Minister compeire the said day at Dingwall, and that he preach at the vacand kirk of Urquhart, the ensuing Lord's day he is in the country.
"The said day the presbyterie of Dingwall, according to the appoyntment of Synode for searcheing and censureing such principalls, and superstitious practices as should be discovered thaire--haveing mett at Appilcross, and findeing amongst uther abhominable and heathenishe practices that the people in that place were accustomed to sacrifice bulls at a certaine tyme uppon the 25 of August, which day is dedicate, as they conceive, to Sn Mourie as they call him; and that there were frequent approaches to some ruinous chappels and circulateing of them; and that future events in reference especiallie to lyfe and death, in takeing of Journeyis, was exspect to be manifested by a holl of a round stone quherein they tryed the entering of their heade, which (if they) could doe, to witt be able to put in thair heade, they exspect thair returning to that place, and failing they considered it ominous; and withall their adoring of wells, and uther superstitious monuments and stones, tedious to rehearse, Have appoynted as followes--That quhosoever sall be found to commit such abhominationes, especiallie Sacrifices of any kynd, or at any tyme, sall publickly appear and be rebuked ... six several Lord's dayis in six several churches, viz., Lochcarron, Appilcross, Contane, Fottertie, Dingwall, and last in Garloch paroch church; and that they may, uppon the delatatione of the Sessione and minister of the paroche, he sall cause summoned the guiltie persone to compeire before the pbrie, to be convinced, rebuked, and there to be injoyned his censure, And withall that the session sould be charged to doe thair dewties in suppressing of the foresaid wickedness, and the foresaid censure in reference to thair sacrificing to be made use of in case of convict, and appeiring, and evidences of remorse be found, and failing, that they be censured with excommunicatione. Ordaines the minister to exercise himself with his people in such manner as at his coming to Appilcross, once in the five or sax weekes at each Lord's day of his coming, he stay thrie dayes amongst his people in catechising a pairt of them each day, and that he labour to convince the people of their former error, by evidenceing the hand of God against such abhominations as hes beene practised formerlie. Appoynts Mr Allexr Mc Kenzie to informe the presbiterie of any strangers that resorts to thease feilds as formerlie they have to their heathenishe practices, that a course may be taken for their restraint."
"AT KENLOCHEWE, _9 Septr 1656_.
"Inter alia, Ordaines Mr Allex Mc Kenzie, minister at Lochcarron, to cause summond Murdo Mc conill varchue vic conill vic Allister in Torriton, and Donald Smyth in Appilcross, for sacrificing at Appilcross--to compeire at Dingwall the third Wednesday of October, with the men of Auchnaseallach.
"The brethren taking to their consideratione the abhominationes within the parochin of Garloch in sacrificing of beasts upon the 25 August, as also in pouring of milk upon hills as oblationes quhose names ar not particularly signified as yit--referres to the diligence of the minister to mak search of thease persones and summond them as said is in the former ordinance and act at Appilcross 5 Sept: 1656, and withall that by his private diligence he have searchers and tryers in everie corner of the countrey, especiallie about the Lochmourie, of the most faithful honest men he can find; and that such as ar his elders be particularly poseit, concerning former practices in quhat they knowe of these poore ones quho are called Mourie his derilans[13] and ownes thease titles, quho receaves the sacrifices and offerings upon the accompt of Mourie his poore ones; and that at laist some of thease be summoned to compeire before the pbrie the forsaid day, until the rest be discovered; and such as heve boats about the loch to transport themselves or uthers to the Ile of Mourie, quherein ar monuments of Idolatrie, without warrand from the superiour and minister towards lawful ends; and if the minister knowes alreaddie any guiltie, that they be cited to the nixt pbrie day, and all contraveners thereafter, as occasione offers in all tyme comeing. The brethren heiring be report that Miurie hes his monuments and remembrances in severall paroches within the province, but more particularly in the paroches of Lochcarron, Lochalse, Kintaile, Contan, and Fottertie, and Lochbroome, It is appoynted that the brethren of the congregationes heve a Correspondence, in trying and curbing all such, within their severall congregationes. And for thease that comes from forren countreyis, that the ministers of Garloch and Lochcarron informe themselves of the names of thease, and the places of their residence, and informe the pbrie thereof, that notice may be given to those concerned."
"AT DINGWALL, _6 August 1678_.
"Inter alia, That day Mr Roderick Mackenzie minister at Gerloch, by his letter to the prebrie, declared that he had summoned by his officer to this prebrie day Hector Mackenzie in Mellan in the parish of Gerloch, as also Johne Murdoch, and Duncan Mackenzies, sons to the said Hector--as also Kenneth Mc Kenzie his grandson, for sacrificing a bull in ane heathenish manner in the iland of St Ruffus, commonly called Ellan Moury in Lochew, for the recovering of the health of Cirstane Mackenzie, spouse to the said Hector Mackenzie, who was formerlie sicke and valetudinairie:--Who being all cited, and not compearing, are to be all summoned againe pro 2°."
G.
RECORDS and EXTRACTS relating to Sir George Hay and the Manufacture of Iron.
ACT ANENT THE MAKING OF IRON WITH WOOD. THIS ACT WAS PROBABLY INTENDED TO SUPPRESS SIR GEORGE HAY'S IRONWORKS. SCOTS ACTS, VOL. IV., P. 408_b_.
"_Act anent the making of Yrne with Wode._
"_Apud Edinburgh xxvij die mensis Januarij 1609._--Forsamekle as it hes pleasit god to discover certane vaynes of ritche mettall within this kingdome: as alsua certane wodis in the heylandis: whilkis wodis by reasoun of the savagnes of the inhabitantis thairabout wer ather vnknawin or at the leist vnproffitable and vnused: and now the estaitis presentlie conveyned being informit that some personis vpoun advantage of the present generall obedience in those partis wald erect yrne milnis in the same pairtis: To the vtter waisting and consumeing of the saidis wodis: whilkis mycht be reserved for mony bettir vseis: and vpoun moir choise and proffitable mettaillis for the honnour benefite and estimatioun of the kingdome: Thairfore the estaitis presentlie conveyned Statutis and ordanis: and thairwith commandis chairgeis and inhibitis all and sindrie his maiesties leigis and subiectis: That nane of thame presome nor tak vpoun hand To woork and mak ony Irne with wod or tymmer vnder the pane of confiscatioun of the haill yrne that salbe maid with the said tymmer: to his maiestes vse: And ordaines publicatioun to be maid heirof be oppin proclamatioun at all places needful quhairthrow nane pretend ignorance of the same."
RATIFICATION TO SIR GEORGE HAY OF THE GIFT OF THE MANUFACTURE OF IRON AND GLASS. SCOTS ACTS, 1612.
"_Ratificatioun To Sr George Hay off his gift and privilege of making of yron glasworkis passed October 23d 1612._
"Oure Souerane Lord with aduise and consent of his Estaittis of parliament Ratifies apprevis and confermis The Commission and Licence grantit be his Maiestie vnder his hienes great seall To his Maiesties Louit Sr george hay of Nethirliff knycht gentilman of his Maiesties privie chalmer his airis executouris and assignais Be him selff his factouris and servandis and vtheris haueand his licence tollerance and permissioun within the haill boundis of the kingdome of Scotland To mak yrne and glass within the said kingdome of Scotland In forme and manner specifeit in the said Commissioun And that during the space of threttie ane zeris nixt efter the dait efter specifeit of the said Commissioun As the samyn contening diuerse and sindrie vtheris priuilegis prouisiones and conditiones off the dait At quhitehall the twentye foure day of December ane thowsand sex hundreth and ten zeris at mair lenth proportis In All and Sindrie pointis part heides articles clauses conditiones and circumstances quhatsomeuir thairin contenit Efter the forme and tennoure thairof with all that hes followit or may follow thairvpoun Lykeas his Maiestie with Aduise and consent foirsaid Statutis decernis and ordains That the forsaid Commissioun and this pnt ratificatioun thairof Sal be ane sufficient lauchfull and valide rycht To the said Sr george hay and his foirsaidis for vsing of the haill rychtis priuilegis and liberties thairin contenit and vplifting of the haill proffites and dewities comprehendit or that may be comprehendit vnder the said Comission during the space aboue specifeit thairin contenit Efter the forme and tennoure thairof in all pointis."
PROCLAMATION RESTRAINING THE EXPORT OF IRON ORE OUT OF SCOTLAND. REGIST. SECRETI CONCILII ACTA, FOLIO 166. PROBABLY INTENDED TO ASSIST SIR GEORGE HAY'S ENTERPRISE.
"_Apud Edinburgh Septimo Aprilis 1613._--Forsamekle as certane of his maiesties subiectis oute of thair affectioun to the credite reputatioun and commoun weill of this thair natiue countrey haueing interprysit the practise and making of yrne within the same and haueing with verie grite travellis chargeis and expenssis broght that work to ane ressounable good perfectioun of purpois and resolutioun to prosequute and follow out the same work for the good of the countrey, Thay ar lyk to be hinderit and disapointit in the cours and progres of the saidis workis by the frequent transport of the Irne vr furth of this realme, whiche transport is now become sa ordinar and commoun alsweill in the personis of strangeris as of the borne subiectis of this realme as thair can nocht be haid sufficientlie whairwith to interteny the saidis workis and since this art and practise of making of Irne is most necessar and expedient for the commonweill of the countrey and that the same can nocht be intertenyed and haldin fordwart yf thair be nocht aboundance and sufficiencie of vr within the countrey whairwith to work the same, Thairfoir the lordis of secrete counsell hes thocht meitt and expedient for the commoun weill and benefite of the countrey to discharge lyk as the saidis lordis by these presentis discharges the transport of ony kynd of vr furth of this realme, and ordanis lettrez to be direct to command charge and inhibit all and sindrie his maiesties lieges and subiectis as alsua all streangearis resorting and repairing within this realme be appin proclamatioun at all placeis neidfull That nane of thame presvme nor tak vpoun hand at ony tyme after the publicatioun heirof to carye or transport furth of this realme ony Irne vr vndir the pane of the confiscatioun of the same and of the rest of the movable goodis partening to the awnaris and transportaris and siclyk to command charge and inhibit all and sindrie skipparis maisteris awnaris and marchantis of shippis and veshellis that nane of thame ressaue within thair saidis shippis and veshellis ony Irne vr to be transportit furth of this realme vndir the pane of confiscatioun of the saidis schipis and veschellis to his maiesteis vs, certifeing all and sindrie personis who sall violatt and contravene this present act and ordinance in maner foirsaid that thair saidis goodis vr schippis and veshellis sal be confiscat to his maiesteis vse as said is."
LICENCE TO SIR GEORGE HAY ANENT SELLING HIS IRON.
"_Licence to Sr George Hay Annent Selling off his Irne, Scots Act passed August 4th 1621._
"Oure Souerane Lord With advyse and consent of the Estaittis of Parliament, And in speall with advyse and consent of the Commissionaris off the haill ffrie burrowes Royall within this Realme, Gevis and grauntis full and frie Libertie, Licence, and powar to Sr George Hay off kinfawnis knicht Clerk off his hienes Regr be him selff his seruantis and vyeris in his name, To transport and Carye ony Irone maid be him and his saidis servantis in his name within this realme To any poirt or harbrie off any ffrie burgh Royall or ony vther place within ye samen, To vnloade weigh and dispone vpoun the said Irone to any persoun qt sumeuir within this realme that they sall think expedient, And that notwithstanding off ony privilegis or Liberties qt. sumeuir formarlie grauntit to the saidis burghes To be contrar heiroff Quhairanent his maiestie with advyse and consent foirsaid dispensse be thir pñtis, Provyding Alwayis that this pñtt act Sall nawayis hurt nor preiudge the liberties and priviledges of the saidis Royall burghis in any vther caices, And that in regaird they thame selffis haif consentit to this priviledge."
REMARKS ON DR SAMUEL JOHNSON'S JOURNEY TO THE HEBRIDES. By the Rev. DONALD M'NICOL, A.M., London, 1779.
Page 139.--"Several English companies come to different parts of the west coast for charcoal, and bring ore all the way from England to be there smelted."
Page 155 _et seq._--"The smelting and working of iron was well understood and constantly practised over all the Highlands and Islands for time immemorial. Instead of improving in that art we have fallen off exceedingly of late years, and at present make little or none. Tradition bears that they made it in the blomary way, that is, by laying it under the hammers in order to make it malleable, with the same heat that melted it in the furnace.
"There is still in the Highlands a clan of the name of MacNuithear, who are descended from those founders, and have from thence derived their surname. I am likewise well informed, that there is in Glenurchy, in Argyleshire, a family of the name of MacNab, who have lived in the same place, and have been a race of smiths, from father to son, for more, perhaps, than three hundred years past; and who, in consequence of the father having instructed the son, have carried down so much of their ancient art, that they excel all others in the country in the way of their profession; even those taught in the south of Scotland, as well as in England, not excepted. A tinker or smith of the name of Mac Feadearon, a tribe now almost extinct, was the most famous of his time for making arrow-heads.
"It is certain that Mac Donald was formerly possessed of most of the western isles, as well as of several large districts upon the continent or mainland. He had many places of residence, such as Ardtorinish, &c., but the most common one was in an island in Lochsinlagan in Isla. Near this place, and not far from Port Askaic on the sound of Isla, lived the smith Mac Cregie (that is, the son of the Rock), and his posterity for a great length of time. There is still pointed out, by the inhabitants, the rock out of which he dug his iron ore. Near the rock is a large solid stone, of a very hard consistency, on which he knapped his ore; and, at a little distance, there is a cascade on a rivulet, where stood his mill for polishing, or otherwise preparing the iron which he had manufactured. He and his descendants made complete suits of armour, according to the fashion of the times; such as helmets, swords, coats of mail, &c. The Isla hilt for the broadsword is well known, and so famous as to have become proverbial."
EXTRACT FROM DOUGLAS'S PEERAGE.--KINNOUL.
"George Hay, the second son [of Peter Hay of Melginche] born in 1572; went about 1590 to the Scots College at Douay, where he studied some years under his uncle Edmund, and returning home about 1596, was introduced at Court by his cousin Sir James Hay of Kingask. King James the VI. was pleased to appoint him one of the gentlemen of the bedchamber, and to bestow on him the Carthusian priory or Charter House of Perth, with a seat in Parliament, 18th Feby. 1598: also the ecclesiastical lands of Errol by another charter dated the 1st of that month. But finding the rents too small to support the dignity of a lord of Parliament, he returned back his peerage to his Majesty. He attended the King to Perth, 5th August 1600, when the Earl of Gowrie was killed in his treasonable attempt on his Majesty's life. Mr Hay applying to the profession of the law, acquired considerable property, was designed of Netherleiff, and had charters of Dunninald, in Forfarshire, 17th May 1606, and of Lewes, Glenelg, Barra, &c., 24th July 1610. He was appointed Clerk Register in 1616 and knighted. Sir George Hay of Netherleiff had charters of an annual rent of Redcastle, 18th July 1620; of the barony of Kinfauns, 20th July 1620; of Tulliehow, 20th March 1622; and of Innernytie, Kincluer, &c., 15th May 1622. He was constituted High Chancellor of Scotland 16th July 1622; had charters of Craigton 28th August 1622, of the land and earldom of Orkney and Zetland 22d August 1624; of the barony of Aberdalgy, Duplin, &c., 29th July 1626. He was created a peer by the title of Viscount of Duplin, and Lord Hay of Kinfauns, 4th May 1627, to him and the heirs male of his body, and advanced to the dignity of Earl of Kinnoul, Viscount of Duplin, and Lord Hay of Kinfauns, by patent, dated at York, 25th May 1633, to him and his heirs male for ever. His Lordship enjoyed the Chancellor's place with the approbation of the whole kingdom and the applause of all good men, for his justice, integrity, sound judgment, and eminent sufficiency till his death, which happened at London on the 16th December 1634. His body was conveyed to Scotland, and on the 19th August 1635, was interred in the Church of Kinnoul, where a sumptuous monument was erected to his memory, being a statue of his Lordship of the full size, dressed in his robes as chancellor, and reckoned a strong likeness. There is no inscription on the monument: but an epitaph on him by Dr Arthur Johnston is published in Crawford's lives of the Officers of State, beginning thus:--
Gone is the wise Lycurgus of our time, The great and grave dictator of our clime.
His Lordship married Margaret, daughter of Sir James Halyburton of Pitens, and by her, who dying 4th April 1633, was buried at Kinnoul 7th May following, had issue--
1. Sir _Peter_ Hay, who had charters to Peter Hay, eldest son of George Hay of Neyerleiff, of the ecclesiastical lands and right of patronage of Errol, 8th Jany 1602-3; and of the lands of Dunnynald, 23d May 1611. He died before his father, unmarried.
2. _George_, second Earl of Kinnoul."
PORTRAIT OF GEORGE HAY, 1ST EARL OF KINNOULL, NOW IN DUPPLIN CASTLE.
Extracted from the Life of GEORGE JAMESONE, THE SCOTTISH VANDYCK, by JOHN BULLOCK, 1885, p. 150.
"This picture bears evident trace of Jamesone's hand, but it has been largely repainted. He wears a fine cap, richly ornamented with lace, and a common ruff over a plain doublet. It is a usual feature of these repainted portraits that the dates of Jamesone's pictures are generally sacrificed by the restorer.
"He was the youngest son of Peter Hay, and was appointed a Gentleman of the Bedchamber, and honoured with the dignity of knighthood (1598). He was created Baron of Kinfauns and Viscount Dupplin in 1627, and in 1633 was created Earl of Kinnoull. He married Margaret, daughter of Sir James Haliburton of Pitcur. He died in 1634."
The portrait of Sir George Hay, 1st Earl of Kinnoull, above described, is reproduced amongst our illustrations.
Another portrait of the illustrious ironfounder of Loch Maree, also at Dupplin Castle, forms another illustration. It is entitled "Portrait of Sir George Hay of Megginish, by Ferdinand." It represents Sir George as a young man in armour.
* * * * *
On a map of "the Kingdome of Scotland," by John Speed, published in 1610, there is marked to the north or north-east of Loch Hew "mines of iron." The sheet of water called on the map "Loch Hew" is evidently Loch Maree.
H.
ADDENDA ON ST MAELRUBHA AND ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
The following Notes are principally gleaned from Dr Reeves' paper on St Maelrubha (_Proc. Soc. Antiq. Scot._, vol. iii., p. 258 _et seq._), and from "Bishop Forbes' Journals," &c., by Rev. J. B. Craven (1886):--
St Maelrubha was eighth in descent, on his father's side, from Niall of the Nine Hostages, Sovereign of Ireland, through Eoghan (who died in 465), one of Niall's sons, and on his mother's side he was akin to St Comgall, the great abbot of Bangor, in the county of Down. He was born 3rd January 642, and trained at the monastery of Bangor, of which, according to some, he became abbot. In 671, following the example of St Columba, he went to Scotland, probably in the first instance to Iona, and in 673 he founded the church of Applecross, which became the nucleus of a conventional establishment, following the order of Bangor, and for a long time affiliated to that monastery. He founded a church on an island on Loch Maree,--both island and loch still bearing his name in the corrupted form of Maree. He preached Christianity in the adjoining districts. Maelrubha's Seat, near Loch Clair, is so named because it was a place where he preached. He died at Ferintosh, whilst discharging his sacred office, on Tuesday, 21st April 722, at the age of eighty. There is a tradition that he suffered martyrdom at the hands of the Danes, but it seems inconsistent with existing records. His body was removed to Applecross, and there interred. He acquired so great a reputation for sanctity that he was regarded as the patron saint of this part of Scotland, whence he extended his influence both in the islands and on the mainland. His work in the parish of Gairloch did not die with this holy man. Isle Maree became the residence of a priest. Later on two churches were erected within the parish,--the church dedicated to St Maelrubha at Gairloch, and a church near the head of Loch Maree, then called Loch Ewe. In all probability this church stood (as tradition has it) by the small well that still bears the name of Tobar Mhoire, or "Mourie's well." No doubt St Maelrubha had himself hallowed the spot by blessing the well, or preaching close to it. From the numerous dedications of churches to his memory, not only here but elsewhere, we learn how laborious must have been his missionary work. The name Maelrubha is compounded of _Mael_, a servant, and _Rubha_ or _Ruba_, patience. It has been corrupted in almost endless variety. There are the following amongst many undoubted corruptions:--
Mulruby, Malrew, Mulruy, Mulroy, Morew, Morow, Maroy, Mareve, Maree, Mărie, Măry, Mury;
or dropping the initial letter,
Arrow, Erew, Olrou;
or dropping the first element of the compound name,
Rice, Ro, Row, Ru, Rufus, Ruvius;
or combining the title "Saint,"
Summaruff, Samervis, Samarevis, Smarevis, Samerivis, Smarivis.
Contemplating these corruptions of Maelrubha, one cannot but conjecture that the name Smiorsair, given to a hamlet two miles north of Tobar Mhoire, is derived from the name of the saint, and that perhaps some other Gairloch names may have had the same origin. At and near Applecross are many names connected with the saint and his successors.
The churches founded by St Columba and St Malrubha not having the assistance of a powerful body like the Church of Rome (with which they had no connection), gradually fell into decay. Later on the Romish Church stepped in and gathered up the threads of languishing Christianity; but the inaccessible Gairloch seems to have had no place in church history for some centuries. No doubt Christianity was maintained by a few pious priests amid the clan contests and general turbulence that filled the long interval before the Reformation. That casting off of the Roman yoke made little difference on the west coast. It seems most likely that the Rev. Farquhar MacRae, ordained vicar of Gairloch in 1608, was brought up as a Roman Catholic, and no doubt his learned hearer, Sir George Hay, was so too; but neither they nor the common people seem to have objected to the change made by the Reformation, nor can we suppose that it affected them to any appreciable extent. The simple ritual of the Highland churches was scarcely capable of any change; and it is not likely that forms and ceremonies were much debated in Gairloch.
It was far different when the change came from Presbyterianism to Episcopacy. The Highlanders clung to the old faith, and stoutly struggled against the introduction of Presbyterianism.
The diocese of Ross at the Revolution (1680) comprised within its bounds thirty-two parishes divided into four presbyteries or "exercises," one of which was Gairloch. Of the thirty-one clergy (one parish was vacant) nine were deprived of their livings by the Presbyterians; one voluntarily demitted, declining to obey the new powers; one offered to submit to the new church government (his services were declined); of one parish we have no account; and the remaining nineteen continued (without submission to presbytery) to hold their benefices to their deaths. Of this last class was the Rev. Roderick Mackenzie, Episcopal minister of Gairloch, whose masterly disregard of the Presbytery has been stated (page 65).
When the long incumbency of the Rev. Roderick Mackenzie was brought to a close by his death in 1710, the presbytery resolved to have a minister of their own settled in Gairloch. The Rev. John Morrison was nominated, and the Rev. Thomas Chisholm was sent to Gairloch to take preliminary measures. At a meeting held at Kiltearn, 28th February 1711, Mr Chisholm reported "that, in obedience to the presbytery's appointment, he had gone to the parish of Gerloch in order to have preached at that church and serve the edict for Mr Morrison's admission; but after he was come near to said church he was seized upon by a partie of men and carried back again about six miles, and that being let go by them, he had essayed again to go to the said church another way, and that he was again seized upon by another partie of men, and carried back by them to Kan-loch-ow, where he was detained by them for some time as a prisoner, and thereafter by other parties coming successively was carried back till he was a great way out of the parish, and not let go till Sabbath afternoon; but that while he was detained prisoner (understanding that he was designedly carried back lest he should preach at Gerloch) he had read and intimat the said edict before six or seven persons, within ane house at Kan-loch-ow, which is one of the preaching places of the said parish, and he returned the said edict endorsed by him with the attestation of his having executed the same in the foresaid manner." The Rev. John Morrison was admitted minister of Gairloch,--not at Gairloch, for that was impossible, but at Kiltearn. The story of his treatment by the tenants of Sir John Mackenzie of Coul, and of Sir John's declaration to him, has been recorded (pp. 65, 66). It seems the presbytery represented Sir John's conduct to the General Assembly, but he set them at defiance, and apparently with impunity.
When the Presbytery of Gairloch was constituted in 1724, only two ministers were found in its bounds.
The subsequent progress of Presbyterianism in Gairloch is recorded in Part I., chap. xvi. Notwithstanding the statement of the Rev. Daniel Mackintosh in the "Old Statistical Account" (1792), that there was then no division or dissent in the parish, it seems that there were at least a few who still clung to Episcopacy, for we find from a quotation given in "Bishop Forbes' Journal," that in the end of the eighteenth and beginning of the nineteenth century Episcopal "pastors took it by turns to wander over the west of Ross, through Strath-Garve, Torridon, and Gairloch, and thence into Skye and the Long Island, ministering to the detached families who still kept up a connection with them."
FOOTNOTES:
[1] Professor Skeat traces "neap" and "nip" to one root. I have myself heard, in the Channel Islands, "the tides are nipped," for the "tides are neap."
[2] "Such names as _Crenella decussata_, _Tellina pusilla_, _Modiolaria marmorata_, _Venus verrucosa_, _Cylichna umbilicata_, _Utriculus hyalinus_, _Melampus bidentatus_, _Rissoa violacea_."
[3] See _Quart. Jour. of Geolog. Soc. of London_, May 1883.
[4] Pronounced _Croocholee_. The wrong name occurred in the common maps, and from them, being much used by geological writers, will, it is to be feared, continue to be employed.
[5] See _Quart. Jour. Geolog. Soc. of London_ for Dec. 1858.
[6] See _Quart. Jour. Geolog. Soc._ for Feb. 1861; and his "Geology and Scenery of the North of Scotland," 1866.
[7] See _Quart. Jour. Geolog. Soc._ for Dec. 1858 (Murchison); for May 1861 (Murchison and Geikie).
[8] See _Quart. Jour. Geolog. Soc._ for Nov. 1878, on "Metamorphic and Overlying Rocks in the Neighbourhood of Loch Maree."
[9] See _Quart. Jour. Geolog. Soc. London_ for 1878 and 1883, and _Geol. Mag._ for 1880.
[10] For an interesting and valuable account of these Gruinard rocks and their correlations, by the greatest authority, Professor Judd, see _Quart. Jour. Geolog. Soc._ for 1878, pp. 670, 671, 688-690, where they are called Poikilitic, or Variegated, their varied colouring being well shewn on Loch Gruinard.
[11] Beinn Aridh Charr is called Beinn Lair on the older maps.
[12] Probably the Bull rock.
[13] Mr William Mackay, of Inverness, points out that this word is misspelt by Dr Mitchell, who makes it "devilans." In the original record, which Mr Mackay has examined, the word is "de_r_ilans," which is probably an old Gaelic word signifying the "afflicted ones" (or lunatics), from "deireoil," used in Kirke's Gaelic Bible for "afflicted."
INDEX.
Many names of subjects of Natural History and of books, &c., that are included in lists given in the foregoing pages are not indexed.
Local names of persons will generally be found under their Christian names.
A Mhaighdean. _See_ Maighdean.
Abernethy iron-smelting works, 76.
Achagarve, 337.
Achnasheen, 73, 148, 202, 279, 296, 297, 299, 300, =301=, 302, 309, 321.
Achnashelloch, 299, 322, 410, 411.
Achtercairn, 26, 61, 164, 186, 210, 293, 294, 295, 296, 297, 312, 329, =331=.
Act forbidding the making of iron with wood, 78, 80, =412=.
Act proscribing the Highland dress, 128.
Æneas (Rev.) M'Aulay. _See_ M'Aulay, Rev. Æneas.
Agriculture, 136-142, 399, 406.
Aird House and Point, 58, 103, 203, 321, 337.
Aird na h' Eighaimh, 210, 346.
Alastair Breac, fifth laird of Gairloch, 42, 48, =49-52=, 177, 189, 201, 323, 347.
Alastair Buidhe Mac Iamhair, or Alexander Campbell, 57, 174, =185-187=, 189.
Alastair Buidhe Mackay, 50.
Alastair Cam, 189, 191.
Alastair Liath MacRae, 19, 20, 22, 23.
Alastair Mac Iain Mhic Earchair, his vision of Hector Roy, 29, 169.
Alastair Mor an t' Sealgair, 167, 168.
Alastair Og, 189.
Alastair Ross of Lonmor, 51, 323.
Alastair Roy son of John Glassich Mackenzie, 38.
Alexander III., 11.
Alexander Bain, poet, =198-200=, 297.
Alexander Cameron, the Tournaig bard, 134, =194-198=, 231, 319, 320.
Alexander Campbell. _See_ Alastair Buidhe Mac Iamhair.
Alexander Grant, the great bard of Slaggan, 57, 186, =187-189=, 339.
Alexander Mackenzie, from Stornoway, drowned, 211.
Alexander Mackenzie, historian of the Mackenzies, 11, 126, 143, 186, 191, 192.
Alexander Mackenzie of Lochend, his statement about the Poolewe iron furnace, 83.
Alexander Mackenzie of Oban, the bard, 192.
Alexander (Rev.) Mackenzie. _See_ Mackenzie, Rev. Alexander.
Alexander Mackenzie, seventh laird of Gairloch, =53=, =177=.
Alexander (Sir) Mackenzie, Bart., ninth laird of Gairloch, =53-56=, 82, 144, 178, 179, 298.
Alexander (Sir) Mackenzie, Bart., tenth laird of Gairloch, =56=, 179.
Alexander the Upright, 14, 26, 30, 33.
Allan M'Leod of Gairloch, 14, =25=, 313, 315.
Allt a Choire Dhuibh Mhoir. _See_ Great Black Corrie of Liathgach.
Alness iron-smelting works, 73.
Alpine hare, 238, 239, 379.
Altgreshan, 330.
American merchant drowned, 367.
An Fhridh dhorch, 211, 342, 361.
Ancestry of the Mackenzies, 11.
Ancient ironworks. _See_ Ironworks, ancient.
Ancient records wanting, 3.
Anecdotes, Natural History, 228-232.
Anecdotes of salmon fishing. _See_ Salmon angling.
Anglers and their outfit, 359, 360.
Angling in fresh-water lochs, 312, 363-366.
Angling in Loch Maree, 304, 308, 346, 348.
Angling in sea-lochs, 312, 317, 321, 331, 360, 361.
Angling incidents, 369, 370.
Angus Mackay, piper, 56, 176, 178, 179.
Angus MacMhathain, 11.
Annelid borings, 275.
Applecross, 5, 133, 273, 294, 322, 323, 357, 397, 410, 411, 415, 416.
Archers, MacRae (_and see_ Donald Odhar), 20, 22, 23, 46, 47, 328.
Archibald Primrose, clerk of mines, 75.
Arctic fox, 236, 240, 241.
Ardlair, =14=, =15=, 71, 81, 134, 210, 211, 221, 298, 325, =342=, 373, 395.
Area of Gairloch, 219.
Argyle Furnace Company, 76.
Art, rarity of, in Gairloch, 200.
Arthur, Dr Mitchell. _See_ Mitchell, Dr Arthur.
Artificial islands. _See_ Crannogs.
Assynt, 47, 215, 216, 239, 272, 275, 278.
Ath-nan-ceann, or Anagown, 13, 210, 304.
Attendants to brides of Gairloch lairds, 109, 170, 185, 187.
Aultbea, 71, 72, 87, 99, 118, 162, 213, 241, 245, 246, 283, 288, 293, 294, 296, 297, 299, 300, 320, =321=, 332, 336, 337, 339, 356, 360.
Aurora Borealis, 225.
Bac an Leth-choin, 47, 240, 333, 334.
Bac Dubh, or Moss Bank, Poolewe, 213, 316, 317.
Bad a Mhanaich, 302.
Badachro, 60, 61, 145, 149, 184, 293, 328, 331.
Badachro river, 221, 328, 367, 372.
Badfearn, 293, 321, 337.
Badge of the Mackenzies, the deer grass, 59, 234.
Badgers, 232, 237.
Bagpipes and pipe music, 59, 174, 175, 178, 179.
Baile na h' Eaglais. _See_ Londubh.
Ballymeon, Inverasdale. _See_ Midtown.
Balmerino, Lord, 77, 78.
Balvenny, battle of, 53.
Bank, Caledonian, Gairloch branch, 297, 310.
Bankes, M., of Letterewe, 62, 149, 157, 162.
Bankes, Mrs Liot, 62, 63, 219, 298, 320, 321, 342.
Bannockburn, battle of, 12.
Bard Mor an t' Slaggan. _See_ Alexander Grant.
Bard Sasunnach, 54, 175, 335.
Bards, 173-175, 331.
Barony of Gairloch, 61.
Bateson, J., 201, 327.
Bathais [Bus] Bheinn, 220, 241, 309, 310, 327, 348.
Bay of Corree. _See_ Corree Bay.
Bay of Gruinard, or Loch Gruinard, 219, 272, 283, 288, 293, 338, 340, 349, 351, =355-359=.
Beallach a Chomhla, on Bathais Bheinn, 39.
Beallach Glasleathaid, battle of, 35.
Beallach nan Brog, skirmish of, 14.
Beauly Priory, lairds of Gairloch buried in, 37, 53, 57.
Beauties of Gaelic Poetry, by John Mackenzie, 126, 175, 179, 184, 188, 189, =190=, 191, 192, 201.
Beggars, 115.
Beinn a Chaisgean, 314, 315, 336, 351.
Beinn a Chearcaill, 220, 307.
Beinn a Mhuinidh, 219, 221, 305, 345.
Beinn Alligin, 220, 272, 285, 288, 324, 356.
Beinn an Eoin, 220, 307, 348.
Beinn Aridh Charr, 219, 241, 272, 282, 288, 298, =315=, 318, 321, 336, 340, 343, 344, 345, 350, 352, 354, 356.
Beinn Bheag, 219, 249.
Beinn Bhreac, 220.
Beinn Damh, 324.
Beinn Dearg, 220.
Beinn Eighe, or Eay, 220, 275, 285, 286, 288, 303, 304, 305, 322, 324, 352, 356.
Beinn Lair, 54, 219, 272, 282, 288, 336, 344, 351, =352=, 402.
Beinn na h' Eaglais, 323.
Beinn nan Ramh, 219.
Beinn Tarsuinn, 219.
Beinn Tarsuinn Chaol, 219, 336.
Bethune, or Beaton, one of the ironworkers, 84, 109.
Bicknell, A. S., 236.
Bidein Clann Raonaild, 303.
Big Englishman. _See_ Sasunnach Mor.
Bird-cherry walking-stick, 161.
Birds, 227-231, 241, 346, 351.
Bishop Leslie of Ross, 64, 77.
Bishops, 63, 64.
Black game, 197, 230, 248, 306, 346, 379.
Black Murdo of the Cave. _See_ Murdo (Black) of the Cave.
Black rock, Craig Tollie, 247, 289, 290, 349.
Black-throated divers, 252, 346, 352, 354.
Blackbirds, 227, 244.
Blackie. _See_ Professor Blackie.
Blar na Fala, 136, 313.
Blar na Pairc, battle called, 31.
Bleeding living cattle, 136, 313, 320, 399.
Bloomeries, or ancient iron furnaces, 72, 74, 86.
Blue hare. _See_ Alpine hare.
Boar (Brown) of Diarmid, 186, 324.
Boats, 312, 327, 331, 334.
Boats, new, or newly tarred, 161, 207.
Bodyguard of John Roy, 40.
Bog iron, 73, 86, 87, 88, 96.
Bog iron, localities and analyses of, 87, 88, 328, 329.
Bonaid Donn, 91, 221, 305, 325, 345.
Bonawe, or Bunawe, iron works on Loch Etive side, 76, 77.
Boor, or Boora, 23, 332.
Booth, E. T., 253, 255.
Boundaries of Gairloch, 219.
Bowman, 136.
Bows, 112.
Boys' dress, 26, 129.
Brae, Inverasdale, 293, 333.
Brahan Castle or Mains, 14, 23, 26, 37.
Brahan, 14, 23, 37, 41, 51.
Breacan an Fheilidh, or plaid of the kilt, 29, 126, =127=.
Bridges in Gairloch, 148, 399.
Bright, John, 369.
British coin, ancient, found near old iron slags, 72.
Broadsword and targe, 4, =112=.
Brochs, or round houses of the Picts, 4, 97, =132=, 336.
Broik, Sir John, rector of Gairloch, 63.
Bronze weapons and implements, 103, 104.
Brown, J. A. Harvie, =241-255=.
Brown trout. _See_ Trout, brown.
Bruachaig, 101, 134, 137, 221, 324.
Buaile na luib, 293, 294, 295, 337.
Buchanan, laird of, slain by Donald Dubh, 29, 33.
Bull Rock, or Craig Thairbh, 148, 325, =343=, =344=, 402.
Bull-trout, 233, 362, 368.
Bunyan's works translated into Gaelic, 190.
Burial-places. _See_ Churchyards.
Burn of the Great Black Corrie. _See_ Great Black Corrie of Liathgach.
Bynames in Gairloch, 111.
Cabar Feidh, 11, 59.
Cadha Beag, 296, 339.
Cailleach a Mhuillear, 178.
Cailleach Liath Rasaidh, 178.
Caithness men attack MacCailean, 34.
Callaway, Dr, 277, 278.
Callum a Ghlinne, or Malcolm M'Lean, =180-183=.
Calthorp, Rev. Gordon, 370.
Cambrian System, 273, 278, 280, 283, 284, 356.
Cameron of Lochiel, 51.
Canal projected by ironworkers, 95, 332.
Cantæ, 4, 109.
Carbisdell, victory at, 409.
Carn a Ghlinne, 303.
Carn Anthony, 323.
Carn Bhan, 287.
Carn Dearg, 159, 298, 329.
Carried or perched blocks, 283, 350, 353, 355, 358.
Carrier to Gairloch, 297.
Carron ironworks, 76.
Carts, 135.
Cas-chrom, or hand-plough, 138, 141.
Cathair Bheag, 159, 310.
Cathair Mhor, 159, 325.
Cattle, 136, 170, 206, 398, 399.
Cautious, canny disposition (anecdote), 123.
Cave at Cove, 105, 221, 294, =334=, 357.
Cave at North Erradale, 105, 221, =329=.
Cave at Opinan, near South Erradale, 221, =328=.
Cave at Sand of Udrigil, 105, 221, 294, 339, =357=.
Cave at Sand of Udrigil used as a dwelling, 339, =357=.
Cave of Gold on Loch Maree, 221, 344.
Cave of the King's Son, =15=, 16, 18, 221, 343.
Caves with weapons concealed by the sian, 166.
Ceann a Chro, or Cruive End, 315.
Ceann an t' Sail, 30, 310.
Ceilidh, 174, 201.
Cell on Isle Maree, 7, 10, 102.
_Celtic Magazine_, 126, 159, 186, 187.
Chanonry Castle, 14, 396.
Chapel or church of Sand of Udrigil, 5, 63, 66, 70, =100=, 338, 357, 400.
Char, 362, 365, 397.
Character and characteristics, 121, 122, 123, 400, 405, 406.
Charlestown, or Charleston, 30, 46, 60, 167, 246, 293, 297, 310, 331.
Charter of Gairloch, 30, 391.
Chevy Chase, battle of, 13.
Chisholm, friend of Fionnla Dubh nan Saighead, 47, 330.
Chisholm, Rev. Thomas, 416.
Christian festivals, 64, 121.
Christian Lady Mackenzie, wife of Sir Hector, 57.
Christianity introduced, 4, 323.
Christmas, 66, 202.
Church at Culinellan, near Kenlochewe, or Heglis-loch-ew, 62, 70, 99, 324, 400, 415.
Church at Poolewe, 71, 293, 316, 407.
Church at Tollie Croft, or Cruive End, 70, 99, 315, 398, 400.
Church attendance in Gairloch, 118, 120.
Church of Gairloch, or Heglis Gherloch, 5, 61, 62, 69, 70, 99, 293, 310, 400, 407, 408, 411, 415.
Church of Inverewe. _See_ Inverewe church and churchyard.
Church of St Maelrubha, 5, 63, 69, 311, 415.
Church of turf in Tollie Bay, 66, 71, 99.
Churchyard of Gairloch, 36, 43, 52, 53, 56, 82, =101=, 177, 178, 184, 186, 190, 191, 311, 331.
Churchyards or burial-grounds, 100, 101, 247.
Circle, supposed to be Druidical, in Tollie wood, 97.
Circular enclosure, supposed to be Druidical, on Isle Maree, 97, 151, 152, 397.
Clach a Mhail, 134, 343.
Clach an t' Shagart, 302.
Clach nam Brog, 313.
Clachan garbh, 26.
Cladh nan Sasunnach, =84=, 100, 325, 345, 405.
Clais na Leac, 87, 325.
Clan Eachainn, 36.
Claonadh, or Slopes at the back of Beinn Lair, 54, 344.
Clark, Rev. W., minister in Inverness, 216.
Clayband ironstone, 88, 89, 317.
Cliff Hill, 314, 318, 333.
Climate of Gairloch, 222-225, 404.
Clive. _See_ Poolewe.
Clowes, S. W., 240.
Clyde ironworks, 76.
Cnoc a Chrochadair, 45, 304.
Cnoc a croiche, or Gallows hill, =116=, 311, 331.
Cnoc na mi-Chomhairle, or Hill of Evil Counsel, 25, 315.
Coast, Inverasdale, 293, 333.
Cochran-Patrick, Dr, quoted or referred to, 344.
Cod fishery of Gairloch, 57, =143-146=, 398, 399, 407.
Coigeach, 272, 356.
Coille Aigeascaig, 196, 197, 221, 231, 243, 319.
Coinneachadh Beag, 307.
Coire an Easain, 178.
Coire Chaoruinn, 287.
Coire Cheud Cnoc, or Valley of the Hundred Hills, =285=, 323.
Colin Cam, lord of Kintail, 40, 396.
Colin Fitzgerald, 11.
Colin Mor Gillespic, 17, 18.
Colla Ban, 51.
Colouring of landscapes, 226, 234, 303, 346, 351, 402.
Communicants, 119, 407.
Competitions suggested, 124.
Conan House, 56, 57.
Confession of Faith of the Westminster Divines, 118.
Conglomerates or breccias of the Cambrian Series, 274, 283, 284, 285, 327, 331, 332.
Controversy on separate form of the kilt, 127.
Coppachy, 87, 290, 293, 325, 345.
Corree Bay, or Ob Choir' I, 348, 362.
Corson, G., 298, 329, 330.
Coulin mountains and forest, 299, 302, 322.
Cove, 105, 166, 293, 294, =334=.
Covenant, wars of Montrose against the, 53, 408, 409.
Courtesy in Gairloch, 122, 194, 200, 201.
Crabs, 143.
Craig a chait, 46, 55, 232, 310.
Craig an Dubh Loch, 219, 287, 288, 336, 350, 351, 352, =353=.
Craig an Fhithich, 312, 335.
Craig an Fhithich Mhor, 337.
Craig an t' Shabhail, 211, 285.
Craig Bhadain an Aisc, 26, 313.
Craig Bhan, 335, 336.
Craig Thairbh. _See_ Bull Rock.
Craig Tollie, 23, 228, 229, 230, 243, 247, 272, 282, 283, 309, 314, 315, 318, 327, 333, 348, 349.
Crannogs, or artificial islands, on Lochs Tollie, Kernsary, and Mhic 'ille Rhiabhaich, 98, 99, 350.
Crasg, the, 36, 40, 116, 311.
Creagan an Inver of Meikle Gruinard, 180.
Crest of the Mackenzies, figure of Donald Odhar, 59.
Crinan, 203, 205.
Croft. _See_ Tollie Croft.
Croft Brae, 315.
Crofters and Cottars, Royal Commission on, 57, 138, 376-379.
Crofts and crofters, 137, 138.
Cromasaig, 51, 175, 322.
Crops, 138.
Cross, one of the ironworkers, 54, 84, 109.
Crosses on the graves of the Prince and Princess, 10, 105, 152.
Cruive End. _See_ Ceann a Chro.
Cruives for taking salmon, 367, 372.
Cuckoo, 197, 231, 247.
Cuil an Scardain, 95, 332.
Cuilchonich, 321, 337.
Culinellan, 70, 91, 99, 101, 247, 304, 325.
Curlews, 230, 241, 250, 354.
Danes, 5, 415.
Daniel (Rev.) Mackintosh. _See_ Mackintosh, Rev. Daniel.
Darrochs, the. _See_ Duncan Darroch.
David II., 13.
Davidson, A., 256.
Davis, H. B. W., R.A., 201, 315.
Davy, Sir Humphrey, and his salmon, 369.
Deaths, presages of, 161.
Deer forests and deer-stalking, 372-379.
Deer-grass, or Stag's-horn moss, 234.
Deer (red) and stags, 39, 104, 168, 346, 372-379.
Denudation of rocks, 273, 284.
Destitution fund at the time of the potato famine, 149.
Diabaig, 61, 293, 294, 295.
Diet, 133, 136.
Dingwall, Rev. Ronald, 72, 294.
Dirks, 30, 112, 161.
Discontinuance of the historic ironworks, 83.
Disruption, the, 68.
Dog, bite of a, 161.
Doire, 348.
Domhnull Greannach, 45.
Donald Dubh Mac Gillechriosd Mac Gille Riabhaich, 28, 33.
Donald Fraser, forester, Fannich, 245, 249.
Donald Gorm of Sleat, 37.
Donald Lord of the Isles, 6, 13, 24, 27.
Donald Maclean, his visions of red coats, 172, 335.
Donald Mor Mackay, 41, 42, 177.
Donald Mor MacRae, 19, 22, 23.
Donald Morrison of Drumchork, 187, 206.
Donald (or Domhnull) Odhar Mac Iain Leith, 19, 20, 45, 46, 48, 59, 102, 127, 310, 328.
Donald (Rev.) MacRae. _See_ MacRae, Rev. Donald.
Donnachadh Mor na Tuaighe, or Big Duncan of the Axe, 19, 32, 34, 35.
Donnachadh na Fadach, or Duncan MacRae, 172, 211.
Dounie, Rev. John, 68, 77, 99, 398.
Dress, ordinary, of Gairloch men and women, 130.
Dresser, H. E., 229, 253.
Drowning, deaths by, 171, 203, 208, 210, 211, 367.
Druids and Druidical remains, 4, 97, 153, 154, 157.
Druim a chait, battle of, 33.
Druim Carn Neill, 47, 333.
Drumchork, 187, 208, 298, 320, 321, 379.
Drust the son of Erp, 4.
Dry Island, Badachro, 145, 328.
Dubh Loch, 272, 287, 288, 350, 352, =353=, 354, 365.
Dugal MacRae son of Big Duncan of the Axe, 19, 35.
Dun Bhorraraig, 178.
Dun Naast, 61, 98, 333.
Dun or Castle of Gairloch, 21, 24, 30, 36, 40, 43, 98, 311, 331.
Dunan, Tournaig, 98, 320.
Duncan Darroch of Torridon, 28, 246, =324=.
Duncan Mackenzie at Blar na Pairc, 31, 32.
Duncan Mackenzie, butler to Sir Hector, and innkeeper at Poolewe, 70, 148.
Duncan Mackenzie, the Kenlochewe bard, =192-194=, 324.
Duncan MacRae of Isle Ewe, bard, and the sian, 55, 165, 175, 334.
Duncan Urquhart, valet to Captain Mackenzie, Kinloch, 204.
Dundonell, 149, 209, 300, 314, 359.
Dutch map of 1660 or 1662, 61.
Dyes and dyeing, 128, 132, 235.
Eachainn Ruadh. _See_ Hector Roy.
Eagles, 228, 229, 241, 309, 349, 350, 354.
Earl of Kinnoull. _See_ Kinnoull.
Earl of Seaforth. _See_ Lord Seaforth.
Earldom of Ross, 6, 32.
Earls of Ross, 6, 12, 59.
Early history, 3.
Eastern gneiss, 277, 279, 281, 288.
Ecclesiastical History, 63-72, 415-417.
Edward Balliol, 24.
Eels, 361, 366.
Eilean Dubh na Sroine, 346.
Eilean Grudidh, or Grudidh Island, 21, 24, 43, =98=, 307, 326, 346.
Eilean Horisdale, 210, 328.
Eilean na h' Iolair, 241.
Eilean Ruaridh Beag, 25, 40, 49, 61, =102=, 177, 346, 348.
Eilean Ruaridh Mor, 230, 346, =348=.
Eilean Suainne, 38, 49, 61, 102, 160, 177, 242, 346, =347=, 348.
Eileandonain Castle, 11, 13, 14, 16, 31, 37, 395, 396.
Elegy on Dr Kennedy, Dingwall, 198-200.
Elm bark hair-wash, 131.
English more spoken than formerly, 125.
Episcopalianism, 63, 64, 65, 416, 417.
Epithalamium on the marriage of Sir Kenneth Mackenzie and Miss Eila Campbell, 193, 194.
Erradale, 5, 61.
Estates in Gairloch, 60-63, 219, 318, 320, 335, 342.
Ewan Mac Gabhar the son of the Goat, 14, 16, 18.
Ewe river. _See_ River Ewe.
Fairies, fairy seats, knowes, or hillocks, 159-161, 310, 325, 329, 334, 337, 347.
Falcon, peregrine, 242, 349, 354.
Family worship, 121.
Farquhar MacRae, Rev. _See_ MacRae, Rev. Farquhar.
Farquhar (Rev.) Mackenzie. _See_ Mackenzie, Rev. Farquhar.
Fasagh, and Fasagh glen and burn, 274, 275, 279, 345.
Fasagh ironworks, =91=, 95, 325, 345.
Fast-day, communion, 118.
Faults (geological), 281, 282.
Fedan Mor above Loch a Druing, 55, 166, 334.
Feill Iudha, or Ewe market, 104, 317.
Feith Mhic Iain Dhuibh, 44, 307.
Feith, or Fe, Leoid, 13, 322.
Feithean Mor, or Fain Mor, 149, 300.
Ferintosh, 66, 202, 415.
Ferruginous rocks, shales, and earths, 74, 86.
Feur, or Fear, or Fiar Loch, 309, 330, 366.
Fevers, =133=, =400=.
Fiaclachan, 333.
Fidelity to chief, 37, 122, =201=.
Fife Adventurers, 77.
Fighting Jack, 56.
Fingalian legends, 3, 186, 324, 342.
Finlay Mackinnon, the Poolewe artist, =200=, 201, 316.
Finnocks, 233, 362.
Firemore, or Faidhir Mor, 293, 333.
First Coast, or Bad an t' Sluig, 138, 293, 339, 358.
First-footing, 116.
Fish, species of, in Gairloch waters, 361, 362, 363, 366.
Fish-hooks, 144, 145.
Fishing tackle, 359, 360.
Fishing station at Badachro. _See_ Badachro.
Fionn Loch, 220, 221, 238, 241, 272, 283, 287, 289, 290, 298, 321, 335, 336, 339, =349-355=, 356, 357, 358, 359, 364, 365.
Fionnla Dubh nan Saighead, 19, 20, 46, 47, 330.
Flies for the Ewe, 369.
Flodden Field, battle of, 27, 29, 36.
Flowerdale, 49, 51, =54=, 55, 57, 63, 97, 102, 103, 116, 117, 127, 130, 147, 148, 170, 184, 185, 186, 221, 222, 224, 225, 232, 237, 298, 310, 372, 373, 398, 399, 400.
Flowers, 234, 256-264.
Fogs almost unknown, 225.
Folk-lore, 117, 201.
Forbes, Bishop, his journal, 415, 417.
Forested, meaning of, 137, 373.
Forests. _See_ Deer forests.
Forests of timber, 74, 373.
Forty-five, the, 54.
Foura, 5, 220, 246, 250, 251.
Fowler, Mrs, Inverbroom, 256.
Fox Point, or Rudha mhadaidh ruaidh, 3, 159, 252, =341=, 342, 362.
Foxes, 137, 237, 240, 341.
Francis H. Mackenzie, 57, 312.
Francis (Sir) Mackenzie, Bart., twelfth laird of Gairloch, =57=, 122, 129, 132, 140-142, 164, 168, 194, 376, 404, 405.
Fraoch Eilean, 45, 310, 328, 331.
Fraser of Foyers concealed in Flowerdale House, 56.
Fraser, Rev. Mr, minister, Stornoway, 213.
Free church and churches, 68, 71, 294, 304, 311, 317, 321, 328, 334.
Free church, characteristics of services, 121.
Free church ministers and manses, 71, 72, 294, 298, 311.
Fucoid remains, 275.
Fuirneis, or Furnace, 79, 92, 95, 293, 294, 325, 344, 345.
Funeral customs, 115.
Funeral of Colonel Keith Stewart Mackenzie, 20.
Fungi and toadstools, 234, 236.
Furnace (Letterewe) ironworks. _See_ Letterewe, or Furnace, ironworks.
Gaelic Bible, 190.
Gaelic language, 125, 183, 400, 406, 407.
Gaelic literature, 126.
Gaff, unnecessary on Ewe, 371.
Gairloch churchyard. _See_ Churchyard of Gairloch.
Gairloch company of Seaforth Highlanders, 56, 112.
Gairloch, first mention of, 6.
Gairloch Hotel, 26, 226, =311=, 329, 330, 331.
Gairloch, lands of, being the original estate, 60.
Gairloch, the. _See_ The Gairloch.
Gallows hill. _See_ Cnoc a Croiche.
Garavaig falls and burn. _See_ Victoria Falls.
Garavaig ironworks, =93=, 95, 309, 348.
Garbh Eilean, 346, 348.
Garbh, or Kenlochewe river, 221, 303, 322, 325, 367, 372.
Gardens, infrequency of, 133, 142.
Garradh Iaruinn. _See_ Iron dyke.
Geikie, Dr A., quoted or referred to, 271, 278, 279, 280, 283, 313, 331.
Genealogical account of the Macras, quoted, 77, 78, 79, 81, 395.
General Wade's, or the old military, roads, 148, 398.
Geology, 271-289.
George Mackenzie of Gruinard, 66, 211.
George Ross, head gamekeeper, 130, 184.
George (Sir) Hay. _See_ Hay, Sir George.
George Steuart (Sir) Mackenzie of Coul. _See_ Mackenzie, Sir G. S., of Coul.
George III., 224.
Ghost stories, 169.
Giant's Point. _See_ Ru Nohar.
Gift of the manufacture of iron and glass to Sir George Hay, 80, =412=.
Gille Buidhe, murder of the, 55, 83, 344.
Gille Dubh of Loch a Druing, a fairy, 160, 334.
Gille Riabhach assists Black Murdo of the Cave, 12, 27.
Gilleon na h' Airde, 11.
Gilleon Og, 11.
Gizzard, or Gilaroo, trout, 363.
Glac Mhic Iain Dhuibh. _See_ Feith Mhic Iain Dhuibh.
Glac na Sguithar, 51, 302.
Glaciation and Glacial Age, 282, 283, 288, 301, 348, 355.
Glas Leitire in Kintail, 30, 33, 36, 38, 39, 60.
Glas Leitire woods, 221, 237, 305, 306, =346=.
Glen Cruaidh Choillie, or Glen Logan, =274-277=, 279, 290, 304, 324.
Glen Dochartie, 50, 90, 95, 220, 277, 279, 280, 281, 282, 296, 303, 315, 396.
Glen Dochartie ironworks, =90=, 95, 303.
Glenelg of Glenelg, loss of the, 213.
Glen Grudidh, 306, 346.
Glen Logan. _See_ Glen Cruaidh Choillie.
Glen na Muic, 324, 396.
Glen, the. _See_ The Glen.
Glen Torridon, 67, 304.
Glengarry ironworks, 76, 127.
Gneiss, or Hebridean gneiss, 272, 277, 278, 280, 288, 313, 327, 331, 332, 350, 357, 404.
Goats, 16, 23, 232.
Goatfield ironworks, 76, 77.
Gold for Prince Charlie, 55, 166.
Gold mining, 344.
Golden Eagle. _See_ Eagles.
Good, W. Clements, of Aberdeen, 195, 198.
Goosanders, 230, 255, 346.
Grant of Grant, Sir John, 187.
Grant, the peddler of Tournaig, 215, 216.
Grasses, 226, 234.
Graves at the Cladh nan Sasunnach, 3, 84, 85, 100, 345.
Great Black Corrie of Liathgach and its burn, 51, 303, 322, 323.
Greenstone Point, 62, 109, 113, 161, 172, 214, 219, 284, 320, 339, 356, 404.
Grey crow. _See_ Hoodie crow.
Grigor M'Gregor, from Achtercairn, drowned, 211.
Groban, 219.
Grouse and grouse shooting, 248, 379.
Grudidh Island. _See_ Eilean Grudidh.
Grudidh river and bridge, 148, 221, 307, 321, 326.
Gruinard, 62, 241, 243, 244, 245, 247, 296, 299, 300, 321, 358.
Gruinard Bay. _See_ Bay of Gruinard.
Guard of the Black Corrie, 51.
Gulf stream, 225, 318.
Gulls, 230, 346, 347.
Guns, 50, 112, 113.
Haco, king of Norway, defeated at the battle of Largs, 5.
Haddocks and haddock fishing, 143, 207, 361.
Hamilton, Dr, Windermere, 371.
Hammers worked by water-power at ironworks, 75, 94.
Hamond, A., 201, 327.
Hand-line fishing, 360, 361.
Harlaw, battle of, 13.
Harold Harfager, 5.
Harpers, 174.
Hay, John, last manager of the Letterewe ironworks, 82, 83, 311.
Hay of Kirkland, 82, 83.
Hay, Sir George, the ironfounder of Loch Maree, 40, 75, 77, =78-82=, 83, 84, 85, 86, 88, 92, 93, 95, 395, 398, 412-415, 416.
Heather burning, 349.
Hebridean gneiss. _See_ Gneiss.
Hector Cross, crofter at Letterewe, 54.
Hector, eldest son of John Glassich Mackenzie, =38=.
Hector Roy, 14, 26, 27, 28, =29-36=, 177, 185, 186, 307.
Hector (Sir) Mackenzie, Bart., eleventh laird of Gairloch, =56-57=, 68, 116, 117, 135, 144, 145, 161, 179, 185, 186, 187, 194, 206, 210, 224, 371, 399, 400, 401, 404.
Heddle, Dr, 273, 276, 277, 278, 280, 287.
Heglis Gherloch. _See_ Church of Gairloch.
Heglis Loch Ew. _See_ Church at Culinellan.
Heights of Kenlochewe, 324, 396.
Helen Marianne of Campbeltown wrecked, 214.
Hematite (red) iron ore, 88, 89, 317.
Hemp for fishing lines, 145.
Hereditary pipers (Mackays) of the Gairloch family, 41, 56, 57, =177-179=.
Hermit of Isle Maree, 7, =415=.
Herons, 230, 253, 354.
Herring fisheries, 143, 204, 205, 208, 212, 398, 399, 407.
Hicks, Dr, 272, 275, 278, 279, 280, 281, 283.
Highland dress, 126-130, 161.
Highland _esprit_, 124.
Highland Railway, 299, 301.
Highlanders different from Lowland Scots, 109.
Hill of Evil Counsel. _See_ Cnoc na mi-Chomhairle.
Hints for the use of Highland tenants by Sir Francis Mackenzie, quoted, 57, 129, 140-142.
History of Prince Charlie, 190.
Hoodie crow, or grey crow, 61, 166, 231, 247.
Hose, Gairloch, 124, 128, 130, 132, 311.
Hospitality in Gairloch, 122.
Hotels and inns in Gairloch, 296, 302, 304, 307, 316, 317, 336, 337.
Hotspur, 13.
Houses, 102, 103, 133.
Houses, principal, in Gairloch, 103, 298.
Hugh Mackenzie, gamekeeper, Gairloch, 41.
Hugh Miller, mentioned or quoted, 71, 160, 173, 271, 274, 303, 312.
Iain Buidhe Taillear, or John M'Lean, 117, 179.
Iain Caol, 52.
Iain Dall, the blind piper, 56, =177=, =178=, 179, 183, 307.
Iain Dubh Mac Ruaridh M'Leod, 39, 40.
Iain Geal Donn, 50.
Iain Gearr's fidelity, 37.
Iain Liath MacRae, 19, 39.
Iain Liath's well, 39, 309.
Iain Mac Allan Mhic Ruaridh M'Leod, 48, 323.
Iain Mac Coinnich, the Piobaire Bhan, 176.
Iain MacIain Uidhir, 19, 21.
Iain Odhar MacIain Liath MacRae, 19, 46.
Iain, or John, Glas, 111, 132, 147, 176, 316, 370.
Iain (or John) MacGillechallum M'Leod, laird of Raasay, 38, 44.
Idleness or indolence, 122, 123, 140, 141.
Illicit distillation. _See_ Whisky, illicit.
Inaccessibility of Gairloch, 408.
Inge, Colonel, in Gairloch, 376.
Innis a Bhaird, Kernsary, 54, 175, 202, 335.
Innis Ghlas, 87, 293, 325, 345.
Inscription on boulder at Talladale in commemoration of Her Majesty's visit, 308.
Inveran, 61, 62, 73, 97, 150, 162, 172, 206, 211, 221, 230, 241-247, 249, 254, 255, 273, 283, 284, 285, 298, 321, 325, 335, 342, 367, 369, 379.
Inverasdale, 5, 48, 60, 87, 149, 154, 166, 194, 206, 210, 245, 250, 272, 283, 293, 294, 295, 333.
Inverewe church and churchyard, 59, 63, 65, =95=, 99, 101, 171, 204, 317, 318.
Inverewe, or Inverewe House, 221, 237, 241, 243, 244, 249, 250, 254, 298, =318=, 333.
Inverkerry, 186, 204.
_Inverness Courier_, 151, 156, 190, 286.
Impressions, curious, on Torridon sandstone, 286, 287.
Iron dyke, or Garadh Iaruinn, =88=, 328.
Iron implements, ancient, 73.
Iron, making of, with wood, prohibited, 78, 80, =412=.
Iron mines mentioned on old maps, 95, 96, 415.
Iron ore, exportation of, restrained by proclamation, 80, =412=.
Iron ores used in Gairloch, =86-89=, 317.
Iron slags, 72-74, =90=, 91, 92, 93, 94, 95, 302.
Iron-smelting processes and machinery, 74, 75, 79, 88, 92, 93, 94.
Ironworks, ancient, =72-75=, 302, 303, 413.
Ironworkers of Loch Maree, 54, 84, 85, 405.
Island of Justice, Flowerdale, 97, =116=, 310.
Island of Luing, 204, 205.
Island on Loch Tollie. _See_ Loch Tollie.
Islands of Fionn Loch, =354=.
Islands of Loch Maree, 60, 134, 221, 250, 251, 282, 308, 309, 330, 342, =346=, =347=, 397, 399, 403.
Isle Ewe, 62, 159, 160, 189, 207, 212, 213, 220, 244, 246, 248, 249, 283, 298, 320, 321, 333, 339, 356, 404.
Isle Maree, 5, =7=, 9, 10, 97, 101, 102, 105, =150=, =151=, =152=, 157, 315, 346, 347, 397, 399, 403, 404, 411, 415.
Isle of Skye. _See_ Skye.
Jackdaw, or daw, 232, 247.
James I., 24.
James III., 33.
James IV., 33, 36.
James VI., 43.
James Mackenzie, mentioned or quoted, 69, 83, 99, 128, 134, 147, 157, 161, 165, 171, 172, 188, =201=, 317, 318.
James (Rev.) Russell. _See_ Russell, Rev. James.
James (Rev.) Smith. _See_ Smith, Rev. James.
James (Sir) Spens. _See_ Sir James Spens.
Janet, Lady Mackenzie, 44, 179.
Jessie the Cripple, a witch, 163, 170.
John Balliol, 6.
John (Captain) Mackenzie of Gruinard, 203.
John Glas. _See_ Iain, or John, Glas.
John Glassich Mackenzie, =36-38=, 177.
John Hay. _See_ Hay, John.
John M'Callum, 212, 213.
John Macdonald of Islay, 24, 31.
John Macdonald, the drover of Loch Maree, 214.
John Macgregor of Londubh, 203, 204.
John Mackay, grandson of Iain Dall, =179=.
John Mackay, the blind piper. _See_ Iain Dall.
John Mackenzie (General), second son of Sir Alexander Mackenzie, tenth laird of Gairloch, 56, 112.
John Mackenzie, M.D., of Eileanach. _See_ Mackenzie, Dr John.
John Mackenzie of Killin, lord of Kintail, 28, 33, 35, 36, 37.
John Mackenzie of the "Beauties," 126, 175, 188, =189-191=, 201, 311.
John Mackenzie, second lord of Kintail, 12.
John Mackenzie, the cattle drover, 206, 207.
John Maclean. _See_ Iain Buidhe Taillear.
John Macrae of Raasay, 190.
John M'Ryrie, 168, 210, 211.
John M'Taggart, 213, 214.
John Matheson, 241, 251, 255.
John Morrison of Drumchork, 205.
John Munro, gamekeeper on the North Point, 237-242, 253, 254, 255.
John (Rev.) Morrison. _See_ Morrison, Rev. John.
John Roy Mackenzie, =38-43=, 45, 81, 102, 177, 307, 324, 348.
John (Sir) Broik, rector of Gairloch. _See_ Broik, Sir John.
John (Sir) Mackenzie of Coul. _See_ Mackenzie, Sir John.
John Tolmach M'Leod, 48.
Johnnie at church for the first time, 118.
Johnston, C. E., 298, 320.
Jolly, William, chapters by, 271, 349, 355.
Judd, Professor, 278, 281, 280.
Junctions, rock, 274, 284, 285, 327, 331, 332, 358.
Justice, administration of, 97, =116=, 310.
Justices of the Peace, 296.
Kelts, or spent salmon, 368, 370, 371.
Kemp, one of the ironworkers, 84, 109, 410.
Kenlochewe, 12, 13, 37, 42, 60, 65, 69, 71, 91, 101, 134, 137, 148, 164, 165, 180, 192, 203, 210, 220, 221, 229, 247, 273, 278, 279, 285, 293, 294, 295, 296, 297, 298, 299, 301, 303, =304=, 305, 321, 322, 324, 326, 327, 332, 345, 361, 369, 372, 373, 396, 399, 400, 411, 416, 417.
Kenlochewe men slain, 14.
Kenlochewe ravaged, 12, 37, 42.
Kenlochewe river. _See_ Garbh river.
Kennedy, Rev. Dr, of Dingwall, 198, 199.
Kenneth II., 4.
Kenneth and John Mackenzie of Rona, 202, 203.
Kenneth, founder of the Mackenzie family, 11, 12.
Kenneth Fraser, Leac nan Saighead, 117, 204, 328.
Kenneth, Lord Mackenzie of Kintail, 41.
Kenneth Mackenzie, from Eilean Horisdale, drowned, 210.
Kenneth Mackenzie, laird of Dundonell, 209.
Kenneth Mackenzie, sixth laird of Gairloch, =52=, 177, 187, 409.
Kenneth of the Battle, 31, 33.
Kenneth of the Nose, 12.
Kenneth Og, eighth lord of Kintail, 29, 33.
Kenneth (Rev.) Mackenzie. _See_ Mackenzie, Rev. Kenneth.
Kenneth (Sir) Mackenzie, first Bart., and eighth laird of Gairloch, =54=, 178.
Kenneth (Sir) Mackenzie, Bart., thirteenth laird of Gairloch, =57=, 62, 138, 184, 191, 192, 193, 201, 219, 222, 251, 297, 298, 308, 310, 318, 320, 321, 335, 342, 362, 366, 368, 371.
Kenneth, tenth lord of Kintail, 37.
Kenneth, twelfth lord of Kintail, 14.
Kenneth Urquhart drowned, 211.
Kernsary, 54, 62, 63, 104, 175, 211, 221, 317, =335=, 373.
Kerry bridge, 309, 327.
Kerry river and falls, 221, =222=, 248, 309, 310, 330, 331, 366, 367, 372.
Kerrysdale, 130, 221, 227, 238, 298, 309, 330, 331.
Kilt, 29, 126-130, 147, 148, 192, 204, 205, 206, 232, 238.
Kinnoull, Sir George Hay, first earl of, 82, 83, 96, 414, 415.
Kintail, 6, 11, 13, 14, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 32, 35, 37, 39, 43, 59, 60, 62, 64, 206, 229, 326, 332.
Kirkhill, 331.
Kirkland, 82, 83.
Kirkton, 103, 190, 317.
Knives and forks, 161.
Laide, or Laide of Udrigil, 87, 293, 294, 295, 300, 321, =337=, 338.
Laigh of Loch Broom, 339.
Lamont, M., 295, 297.
Lasan Phadruig Chaogaich, 178.
Leabaidh na Ba Bàine, 3, 118, 120, 198, 310.
Leac nan Saighead, 20, =45=, 204, 310, 328.
Leacaidh, 324.
Length of Loch Maree, =340=, 397, 399, 401, 403.
Leod, ancestor of all the M'Leods, 24.
Leod Mac Gilleandreis, 12, 13, 322.
Leth chreag, 314.
Letterewe, 15, 40, 55, 61, 62, 66, 78, 79, 81, 82, 85, 86, 92, 93, 95, 137, 147, 210, 222, 231, 272, 293, 294, 295, 298, 325, 343, 344, 345, 350, 353, 373, 395, 400, 405.
Letterewe, or Furnace, ironworks, 75, 78, 79, =92=, 95, 344, 405.
Letters from the Highlands quoted, 318, 319.
Leum an Doill, 178.
Lews people interview Her Majesty, 309.
Lews, the, 77, 78, 183, 213, 233, 273, 309, 320, 333, 356, 395, 414.
Liathgach, 273, 285, 286, 304, =323=, 346, 352.
License to Sir George Hay to sell iron in Free burghs, 80, =413=.
Licensed houses, 296, 339, 407.
Lichens, 234, 235.
Limestone, 275-277, 278, 280, 344.
Ling fishery, 143, 144, 145.
Literature, Gaelic, 126.
Litigation as to the Dubh Loch, 365.
Little Gruinard and its river, 221, 339, 359, 365, 367-372.
Little Loch Broom, 248, 300, 356, 359, 396.
Lobster fishery, 143.
Loch a Bhaid Luachraich, 220.
Loch a Bheallaich, 220.
Loch a Chroisg, 73, 220, 301, 318.
Loch a Druing, 160, 161, 166, 221, 334.
Loch Badachro, 328.
Loch Bad na h' Achlais, 328.
Loch Bad na Sgalaig, 237, 309, 330, 331, 366.
Loch Bharanaichd, 322, 323.
Loch Broom, 13, 24, 50, 129, 172, 176, 204, 205, 208, 209, 213, 246, 288, 314, 339, 353, 356, 397, 404, 408.
Loch Carron, 22, 67, 69, 188, 192, 299, 408, =410=.
Loch Clair, 221, 322, 323, 368, 372, 415.
Loch Ewe, 7, 54, 55, 60, 61, 62, 95, 96, 143, 166, 168, 171, 189, 194, 200, 207, 214, 219, 220, 225, 230, 237, 240, 246, 251-255, 272, 281, 283, 284, 288, 293, 294, 296, 298, 303, 317, 318, 320, 321, 332, 333, 336, 339, 350, 355, 356, 357, 360, 367, 397, 401, 404, 411, 415.
Loch Fada, 91, 220, 325, 352.
Loch Feur, or Fiar. See Feur Loch.
Loch Gharbhaig, 61, 220.
Loch Gruinard. See Bay of Gruinard.
Loch Kernsary, 98, 220, 247, 335, 350, 365.
Loch Maree, 8, 9, 15, 21, 25, 40, 43, 44, 49, 60, 61, 62, 63, 66, 72, 75, 79, 80, 82, 83, 84, 86, 89, 90, 91, 92, 93, 94, 95, 96, 134, 135, 147, 148, 149, 150, 159, 160, 163, 166, 167, 168, 201, 210, 211, 219, 220, 221, 225, 226, 229, 230, 241, 242, 249, 251, 252, 265, 270, 271-275, 279, 281-283, 285, 286, 288, 293, 294, 301, 302, 303, 304, 305, 308, 309, 315, 316, 325, 327, 330, 332, 335, 336, =340-349=, 350, 353, 356, 361, 362, 363, 367, 368, 372, 373, 396, 397, 399, 401, 402, 403, 404, 405, 410, 411, 415.
Loch Maree Hotel at Talladale, 286, 296, =307=, =308=, 326, 327, 346, 348, 361.
Loch Mhic 'ille Rhiabhaich, artificial island, 27, 99.
Loch na h' Oidhche, 220.
Loch na Sheallag, or Loch na Sealg, 356, 358.
Loch nan Dailthean, 98, 104, 250, 255, 319.
Loch of the Beast, 162, 337.
Loch Rosque. See Loch a Chroisg.
Loch Tollie, 21, 22, 24, 25, 98, 220, 232, 312, =313=, 314, 315, 331, 340.
Loch Torridon, 214, 272, 273, 284, 285, 299, 321, 322, 323, 324, 352.
Loch Torr na h' Eiginn, 215.
Loch Tournaig, or Tournaig Bay, 320, 356.
Lochaber cattle-lifters, 50, 51, 85, 323.
Lochan an Fheidh, battle of, 48, 323.
Lochan Cul na Cathrach, 91, 325.
Lochan Doire Garbh, 335.
Lochan nan Airm, 21, 313.
Lochan nan Breac, 313.
Lochan nan Breac Adhair, 313.
Lochanan Beannach, 351.
Logan Rock, 276, 277, 279, 280.
Londubh, or Baile na h' Eaglais, 62, =189=, 203, 207, 242, 293, =317=, 336.
Longa, 5, 220, 237, 251, 329, 331.
Lonmor, 87, 198, 293, 329, 331.
Lord Breadalbane, 204-206.
Lord Mackenzie of Kintail, 14, 16, 17, 19, 77, 209, 324, 395.
Lord Molyneux, wreck of the, 214.
Lord Seaforth, 14, 362, 398.
Lorn Company's ironworks, 76.
Love of home, 122.
Luibmhor, and Luibmhor Inn, 52, 296, 302, 318.
Luminosity of footprints, 233.
Lunacy and lunatics, 151, 154-157, 296, 397, 403, 404, 406.
Lunacy, resort to Isle Maree for cure of, 151, 155, 156, 159, 347, 397, 403, 404.
Lungard water. _See_ Talladale water.
Lythe, or whiting pollack, 360.
Mabel S.S., on Loch Maree, 297, 331, 332, 340.
Macadam, Professor W. Ivison, mentioned or quoted, 74, 86-95, (chapter by) 289.
MacAlpine's Gaelic Dictionary, 190.
M'Aulay, Rev. Æneas, 67.
MacBeaths, 6, =21-23=, 307, 313, 332, 346.
MacCailean, Earl of Argyle, and Hector Roy, 34.
MacCulloch, Dr, quoted or referred to, 156, 225, 271, 353, 400-403.
Macculloch, Horatio, 315, 350.
MacCrimmons, 175, 178.
Macdonalds, 6, =27=, 28.
Mac Gille Riabhaich, 27, 28, 320, 324.
Mac Iain Dhuibh M'Leod of Eilean Grudidh, 43, 307.
M'Iver, M., 296, 301, 304, 307.
Mackay, laird of, 38, 39, 41.
Mackay, Lord Reay, 178, 208.
Mackay, J. G., on the antiquity of the kilt, 126, 127.
Mackay, William, Inverness, 411.
Mackays, hereditary pipers of the Gairloch family. _See_ Hereditary pipers (Mackays) of the Gairloch family.
Mackenzie, Dowager Lady, of Gairloch, mentioned or quoted, 57, 130, 138, 148, 298, 319.
Mackenzie, Dr John, mentioned or quoted, 56, =57=, 112, 118-120, 131, 135, 137, 147, 185, 186, 223, 227, 229, 230, 232, 233, 256, 361, 364, 366, 369, 371.
Mackenzie, Lady, of Gairloch, 193, 194, 256.
Mackenzie lairds of Gairloch. _See_ their Christian names.
Mackenzie of Badachro, 189.
Mackenzie of Balone, 59, 180.
Mackenzie of Lochcarron, 192.
Mackenzie, Rev. Alexander, vicar of Gairloch, 64.
Mackenzie, Rev. D. S., 68, 294, 312.
Mackenzie, Rev. Farquhar, 64.
Mackenzie, Rev. Kenneth, =59=, =65=, 100, 103.
Mackenzie, Rev. Roderick, =65=, 408, 416.
Mackenzie, Sir George Steuart, of Coul, quoted or mentioned, 122, 125, 129, 137, 139, 144, 161, 223, 363, 405.
Mackenzie, Sir John, of Coul, 65, 66, 417.
Mackenzies of Dundonell, 161.
Mackenzies of Gairloch, their history summarised, 59.
Mackenzies of Gruinard, =59=, 203, 204, 321.
Mackenzies of Kernsary, =59=, 161, 206, 207.
Mackenzies of Kintail, 6, =11-14=, 59.
Mackenzies of Letterewe, =58=, 59, 62, 161, 164, 202.
Mackenzies of Lochend or Kinloch, 58, 203, 204.
Mackenzies of Shieldaig, 202.
Mackenzies predominate in Gairloch, 110.
Mackenzie's shirt of mail, 19.
Maclean of Lochbuy slain by Big Duncan of the Axe, 32.
M'Leay, W. A., Inverness, 240, 360.
M'Leod fratricides, 25, 26, 44, 328.
M'Leod, murderer of Grant the peddler, 215, 216.
M'Leod of Assynt, 47.
M'Leod of Raasay befriended by Sir Hector, 57, 206.
M'Leods, 6, 21, =24-27=, 36, 38, =43-49=, 304, 307, 310, 313, 323, 328, 346.
M'Murtrie, Rev. John, chapter by, 265.
M'Phails in the kilt, 129.
Mackintosh, J., 294, 295, 296.
Mackintosh, Rev. Daniel, 68, 114, 117, 125, 144, 417.
MacRae, Rev. Donald, 68, 125, 130, 403.
MacRae, Rev. Farquhar, vicar of Gairloch, 20, =64=, 71, 77, 78, 81, 343, =395-396=, 416.
MacRaes of Kintail and Gairloch, =19=, =20=, 35.
Maelrubha's Seat, 322, 415
Maelrubha. _See_ St Maelrubha.
Magpies, 227, 247.
Maiden, the. _See_ Maighdean.
Maidens' headdress, 130, 131.
Maighdean, or The Maiden, 219, 287, 288, 315, 336, 351, 352, 353, 356.
Maighstir sgoil, the, a magician or wizard, 164.
Mails between Poolewe and Stornoway, 168, 211, 213.
Malcolm Mackenzie, piper, 192.
Malcolm M'Lean. _See_ Callum a Ghlinne.
Mali Chruinn Donn (Mrs Mackenzie of Kernsary), 59, 65, 180, 206, 207.
Man-of-war fires broadside at Flowerdale House, 55.
Manse and glebe at Clive or Cliff, 71, 332.
Manse and glebe of Gairloch at Achdistall, 71.
Manse and glebe at Miole, 71, 298, 312, 407.
Manse and glebe at Poolewe, 71, 298, 316, 367.
Manures, 140.
Maolmuire MacRae slain by Macdonalds, 37.
Markets, 297.
Marquis of Bristol, 201, 327.
Marr, J. E., quoted or referred to, 88, 89.
Marriage customs, 115.
Marten-cats, or Martens, 230, 232, 238, 355.
Martineau, Miss Harriet, quoted, 172, 173.
Martin's Western Islands of Scotland, quoted, 228.
Mavis, or Song thrush, 197, 244.
Meall a Deas, 314.
Meall a Ghiubhais, 220, 241, 303, 306, =345=.
Meall an Doire, 309.
Meall Aundrairidh, 309.
Meall Aridh Mhic Criadh, 314.
Meall Lochan a Chleirich, 309.
Meall Mheannidh, or The middle hill, 219, 336, 344, 350, 352.
Meall na Cluibha. _See_ Cliff Hill.
Meall na Glaice Daraich, 329.
Meall nam Meallan, 337, 338.
Meallan Chuaich, 219.
Meallan na Ghamhna, or Stirkhill, 87, 166, 293, 333.
Medical practitioner, 296.
Meikle Ferry, 41, 177.
Meikle Gruinard river, 255, 300, 320, 359.
Mellon Charles, 62, 134, 166, 189, 191, 203, 207, 208, 213, 293, 321, 337.
Mellon Udrigil, 113, 172, 173, 189, 192, 293, 294, 295, 337, 338.
Melvaig, 47, 60, 61, 185, 212, 293, 294, 295, 328, =330=.
Men, the. _See_ The "men."
Mermaid, story of a, 162.
Mice, 239.
Midges, 66, 231.
Midtown, or Middletown, Inverasdale, 293, 333.
Milk injured by witchcraft, 164, 165.
Minch, the, =144=, 167, 226, 283, =298=, 312, 330, 333, 353, 356.
Minerals of Gairloch, chapter by Professor Macadam, 289.
Minister's stone, Ardlair, 81, 343.
Mioll, or Meall, or Miole, 60, 61, 71, 293.
Mitchell, Dr Arthur, quoted or referred to, 84, 94, 151-157, 341, 411.
Moladh Mairi, 179.
Monar, Heights and Forest of, 240, 315.
Monopoly of iron manufacture. _See_ Gift of the manufacture of iron and glass to Sir George Hay.
Montrose, wars of. _See_ Covenant.
Monument to John Mackenzie of the "Beauties," 191, 311.
Moon growing or waning, lucky or unlucky, 161.
Moraines of ancient glaciers, =283=, =287=, 288, 313, 337, 356.
Morison, Rev. Roderick, minister of Kintail, 206.
Morrison, Rev. John, 65, 66, 231, 416, 417.
Moss Bank, Poolewe. _See_ Bac Dubh.
Moss, Sir T. Edwards, 298, 317.
Mosses, 234.
Mrs Mackenzie of Kernsary. _See_ Mali Chruinn Donn.
Murchadh Riabhach na Chuirce, 43.
Murchison, Sir Roderick, 271, 273, 275, 276, 277, 278, 280, 281.
Murdo (Black) of the Cave, 12, 13, 322.
Murdo Mackenzie, third son of John Roy, 48, 49.
Murdo of the Bridge, 13, 14, 19.
Murdo's son, or Murdo Mackenzie, 204-206.
Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair, 219.
Munro, Sir William, defeated at Druim a chait, 33.
Mutch, or mob-cap, 130, 131.
Naast (_and see_ Dun Naast), 293, =333=.
Names of females in Gairloch, 111.
Names on vessels, 205, 206.
Narrows of Loch Maree, 94, 95, 167, 368.
Natives of Gairloch mainly of original Pictish stock, 110.
Natural arch, Cove, 334, =335=.
Natural History Notes from Russian Asia, quoted from the _Field_, 228.
Neil M'Leod, 47, 77, 333.
Neil, son of Neil M'Leod, or Nele Nelesoun, has a grant of Gairloch, 24.
New Statistical Account, quoted or mentioned, 68, 86, 125, 130, 155, 340, 344, 371, =403-407=.
New Year's Eve and New Year's Day, 116.
Newcombe, Dr C. F., 235.
Nicol, Professor, 271, 274, 276, 277, 278, 281, 353.
Night-jar, 197, 230, 247.
Nomenclature in Gairloch, 111.
Norse names, 5, 328, 333.
North Erradale, 87, 105, 221, 293, =294=, =329=, 330.
North Erradale, cave at. _See_ Cave at North Erradale.
North Point, 219, 237, 240, 242, 248, 320.
_Northern Chronicle_, 194.
Norwegian rule, 5.
Nova Scotia, 53, 179.
Nurse of Black Murdo of the Cave, 12.
Ob Choir' I. _See_ Corree Bay.
Oban, or Opinan, 192, 293.
O'Beolan, earls of Ross, 6, 11.
Objections to deer forests answered, 376-378.
Odd and End Stories of Dr Mackenzie, Eileanach, 57, 186.
Olamh Mor, 17.
Old Cruive pool on the Ewe, 176, 368.
Old man seeking America, 115.
Old Statistical Account, quoted or referred to, 68, 69, 83, 114, 125, 128, 133, 144, 315, 340, =399=, =400=, 417.
Old style observed in Gairloch, 116.
Opinan, or Openham, 293, 294, =328=, =329=.
Oran na Feannaige, song by Duncan M'Rae, 55, 166, 175.
Ormiscaig, 160, 176, 293.
Osgood H. Mackenzie of Inverewe, youngest son of Sir Francis, 57, 62, 63, 150, 194, 201, 219, 232, 236, 238, 239, 241-256, 298, 317, 318, 319, 320, 321, 335, 342, 351, 354, 365, 371.
Ospreys, 241, 347, 355.
Ossian's poems, 173, 185, 186.
Otterburn, battle of, 13.
Otters, 197, 232, 237.
Owls, 231, 243.
Oysters, 143, 233.
Padruig Caogach, 178.
Pans of bog iron (_and see_ Map), 87, 93, 328, 329, 333.
Parochial school of Gairloch, 67, 69, 114, 184, 189, 400, 407.
Paul M'Tyre has a grant of Gairloch, 6, 14.
Peach and Horne of the Geological Survey, 271, 279.
Pearls, 197, 233.
Peats and peat cutting, 134, 140, 407.
Pegmatite, 287, 336, 353.
Pennant's Tour, quoted or referred to, 68, 70, 77, 79, 83, 94, 97, 99, 144, 146, 152, 153, 154, 302, 304, 340, 341, =396-399=, 401.
Perched blocks. _See_ Carried or perched blocks.
Peterburn, 330.
Philabeg, or short or separate kilt (_see also_ Kilt), 127, 129.
Pibrochs, 175, 178, 179.
Picts, 3, 4, 109.
Pigs, not kept by crofters, 133.
Pike, 309, 366.
Pipers, hereditary, of the Gairloch family. _See_ Hereditary pipers, &c.
Pipers (now living) of Gairloch, 175, 176, 297.
Planted Island, the, 221.
Ploc-ard, 168, 171, 318, 367.
Ploc of Torridon, 41, 324.
Point, or Red Point, 88, 328.
Policemen, 296, 321.
Poll a Chuillin, 325.
Pool below Poolewe bridge, 171, 318, 368.
Poolewe, formerly called Clive, 8, 16, 17, 55, 60, 61, 68, 69, 70, 71, 78, 79, 97, 132, 133, 146, 147, 148, 149, 168, 169, 170, 171, 172, 185, 200, 203, 206, 209, 210, 211, 213, 220, 240, 245, 247, 251, 272, 283, 285, 288, 293, 294, 295, 296, 298, 300, 301, 309, 312, 313, 314, =316=, =317=, 318, 325, 327, 330, 332, 335, 336, 348, 350, 356, 359, 360, 364, 397, 401, 405, 407.
Poolewe iron furnace. _See_ Red Smiddy.
Poolhouse, 298, 318, 379.
Pools and casts on the Ewe, 367, 368.
Poor-law and paupers, 114, 115, 295, 296, 400, 407.
Port Henderson, 133, 162, 293, 328.
Port na Heile, 310, 331.
Portraits of Sir George Hay, first earl of Kinnoull, 82, 415.
Postal arrangements, 147, 296, 407.
Post-offices, 310, 316.
Post-runners, 147, 148.
Potatoes, 138, 140, 142, 149, 398, 400.
Poultry bewitched, 163, 164.
Presbyterianism, 63, 64, 65, 416, 417.
Presbytery of Gairloch, 69, 417.
Presbytery of Chanonry, 69, 408.
Presbytery of Dingwall, 68, 69, 408, 411.
Presbytery of Kenlochewe, 69.
Presbytery of Lochcarron, 69, 399, 403.
Press-gangs, 112, 113, 202, 203.
Preventive service, =297=.
Priest Island, =214=, =241=, 252, 253, 356.
Primrose, Archibald. _See_ Archibald
Primrose, clerk of mines.
Prince Charlie, 54, 55, 166, 190.
Prince of the Isle Maree tragedy, 7, 127, 150, 151.
Professor Blackie, 126, 181, 192.
Pronadh na Mial, 178.
Proscription of the Highland dress, 114, 128.
Ptarmigan, 248, 379.
Public Hall, Poolewe, 298, 316.
Pulmonary consumption, 133.
Quartzite, 274, 277, 278, 285, 288.
Queen Victoria. _See_ Victoria, Her Most Gracious Majesty Queen.
Raasay, affair at Kirkton of, 48.
Rabbits, 237, 238, 239, 379.
Rainbows, 225.
Reay country, 177, 179.
Red Smiddy, or Poolewe iron furnace, 77, 79, 83, =93-95=, 335, 367, 398, 405.
Reformation, 63, 64, 416.
Registrar of births, deaths, and marriages, 295.
Regoilachy, 325, 345.
Reid and Reid, William. _See_ William Reid.
Relics of the old ironworks, 83, 91, 94, 95.
Religious and general progress, 114, 117, 124.
Religious observances, 118, 120, 121.
Remission to John Roy and his sons, 43.
Reptiles, 233.
Retours of 1566 and 1638, 60.
River Ewe, 9, 25, 60, 62, 93, 94, 95, 96, 97, 141, 167, 171, 176, 211, 220, 221, 230, 243, 245, 247, 248, 249, 254, 255, 272, 273, 294, 315, 316, 317, 318, 321, 335, 342, 350, =367-372=, 398, 401, 404.
Rivers of Gairloch, 220, 221, 367, 372, 399.
Roads and road-making, 148-150, 296, 309, 346, 348, 398.
Roasting iron ore, 93.
Rob Donn, the Reay bard, 201, 208.
Rob Roy Macgregor, the other, 209.
Robert Bruce, 6, 12, 14.
Robert II., 6.
Robertson, Dr, Achtercairn, 232, =312=.
Roches Moutonnées, 282, 283, 288.
Rock resembling a stage-coach, 309.
Rocks, curious, at Sand of Udrigil, 338, 339.
Roderick Campbell, piper and fiddler, =176=, 367.
Roderick (or Rorie) Mackay, piper, 41, 109, =177=, 307.
Roderick (Rev.) Mackenzie. _See_ Mackenzie, Rev. Roderick.
Roe-deer, 228, 237, 346, 379.
Romans in the Highlands, 4.
Rona, 202, 328, 398.
Rooks, 227, 247, 304.
Rorie Morrison of Drumchork, 206.
Rorie Morrison of Tanera, 172, 208.
Ross, Rev. Dr, 129, 172.
Royal Commission on Crofters and Cottars. _See_ Crofters and Cottars.
Ruadh Stac of Beinn Eighe, 220, 306, 346.
Ruaridh an t' Sealgair, 168.
Ruaridh an Torra, 117, 169.
Ruaridh Breac (son of Fair Duncan), the Cromasaig bard, 51, 175.
Ruaridh Ceard, 145.
Ruaridh Donn, 203.
Ruaridh Mac Allan M'Leod of Gairloch, 27, 44, 45.
Ruaridh M'Leod of Eilean Ruaridh Beag, 25, 40, 43, 348.
Rudha aird an anail, 348, 361.
Rudha an Fhomhair. _See_ Ru Nohar.
Rudha Chailleach, 163, 343.
Rudha Dubh, or Black Cape, 351, 352.
Rudha Mac Ghille Aindreas, or Ruymakilvandrich, 61, 333.
Rudha Reidh, or Seann Rudha, 47, 160, 219, 240, 330, 333, 404.
Ru Nohar, 3, 148, 304, 306, 327, 345.
Run-rig system of cultivation, 138, 339.
Russell, Rev. James, 68, 114, 118.
Sabbath, observance of, =121=.
Sabbath-breaking, 161, 214.
Sabhal Geal at Flowerdale, 20, 102, 127.
Sacraments, =118-120=, 198, 310.
Sacrifices of bulls, 4, 150-158, 410, 411.
Sage, Rev. Mr, his muscular Christianity, 67, 323.
Sail Mhor of Beinn Eighe, 220.
St Columba, 4, 5, 70, 100, 323, 415, 416.
St Kilda, 137, 253.
St Maelrubha, or St Maree, 5, 7, 63, 69, 99, 102, 151, =153=, 154, 156, 157, 310, 322, 341, 397, 404, 410, 411, =415=, =416=.
Salmo ferox, 363, 364.
Salmon and salmon fishery, =146=, 197, 233, 316, 331, 337, 342, 362, 366-372, 398, 401, 404.
Salmon angling and anecdotes, 25, 366-372.
Sand of Gairloch, Big Sand, and Little Sand, 60, 61, 87, 293, 294, 295, 329.
Sand of Udrigil, 70, 100, 101, 105, 221, 293, =338=.
Sandpipers, 230, 250.
Sandy Mackenzie. _See_ Alexander Mackenzie, from Stornoway.
Sasunnach Mor, or Big Englishman, 85.
Sauchieburn, battle of, 33.
Saythe, or coal-fish, 143, 145, 146, 360.
Scardroy, 50.
Scenery described, 222, 226, 341, 350, 355, 401-403.
School Board of Gairloch, 294.
Schools and education in Gairloch, 67, 114, 294, 295, 333, 337, 400, 407.
Scottish brogue, rare, 126.
Scuir a Laocainn, 288, 315, 336, 352.
Scuir a Mhuilin, 302.
Scuir na Feart, 315, 336.
Sea anemones, 234.
Sea-bathing, 312.
Sea-board of Gairloch, 219.
Sea-captain buried in Isle Ewe, 212.
Sea-fishing. _See_ Angling in sea-lochs.
Sea-trout, 233, 262, 363, 368, 369.
Sea-weeds, sea-ware, 141, 234, 235.
Seaforth. _See_ Lord Seaforth.
Seaforth or Ross-shire Highlanders, 56, 112.
Seannachies, or bards, 1, 173, 174, 332.
Second Coast, or An t' Eirthire Donn, 138, 293, 338, 339, 358.
Second-sight, 169-171, 188.
Sgeir a Bhuic, 333.
Sgeir an Fharaig, 5, 207, 333.
Sgeir Bhoora, 5, 54, 332.
Sgurr Ban, 219, 220.
Sgurr Dubh, 323.
Sheep, and sheep farms and farming, 109, 137, 170, 256, 373, 376, 377, 378.
Shell-lime, 100.
Shells of Gairloch and shell-sand, 265-270.
Shiant Isles, 159, 250, 251, 252, 330.
Shieldaig of Applecross, 285, 299, 322.
Shieldaig of Gairloch, 221, 237, 248, 255, 284, 298, 309, =327=, 373.
Shieldaig shoemaker and his companions, 216.
Shielings and shieling bothies, 54, 136, 137, 335.
Shoestone. _See_ Clach nam Brog.
Shorter Catechism, 118, 180.
Sian, or Seun, a spell or charm, 55, 165-168, 334.
Silurian series, 275, 276, 278, 279, 280.
Simon Chisholm, mentioned or referred to, 116, 170.
Siol Mhic Ghille Challum, 24.
Siol Tormod, 24.
Siol Torquil, 24, 27.
Sitheanan Dubha, 159, 329.
Skye, 27, 45, 55, 73, 130, 162, 167, 175, 183, 190, 202, 204, 214, 226, 281, 300, 301, 311, 312, 320, 328, 329, 353, 417.
Slaggan, 187, 188, 293, 294, 295, =339=.
Slatadale 5, 179, 221, 237, 249, 298, 309, 314, 327, 330, 345-348.
Sledges used for carts, 135.
Slioch, 86, 219, 272, 273, 274, 284, 305, 308, 309, 320, 325, 344, =345=, 402, 403.
Slogan of the Mackenzies, 59.
Small, Rev. J., lines on contrasts in Loch Maree scenery, 341.
Smallpox, 84, 133, 177.
Smiorsair, 87, =325=, 345, 416.
Smith, Rev. James, 67, 117.
Smithstown, 293, 329.
Snow, 21, 42, 223, 225.
Son of the Poolewe blacksmith, 170.
Song on Tournaig, 196-198.
South Erradale, 290, 293.
Spanish ship brought Spanish blood, 109.
Spens, Sir James, 77, 78.
Spidean Moirich, or Martha's Peak, 315.
Sporrans, or sporans, 182, 232, 238.
Spout-fish, or razor-shells, 233.
Sron a Choit, 307.
Srondubh, 247, 318.
Stac Buidhe, 330.
Staghounds, 374.
Stags. _See_ Deer, red.
Stankhouse, or Moat-house, 53, 54, 102, 177, 310.
Steall a Mhuinidh, 221.
Steamers, 297, 300, 317.
Still, the. _See_ The Still.
Stirkhill. _See_ Meallan na Ghamhna.
Stock, 136, 137.
Stone implements and remains, 103, 104.
Storm at the head of Loch Ewe, 169, 171.
Stornoway, 168, 169, 184, 210, 211, 213, 246, 309, 320, 333, 398, 401.
Stornoway women could make the wind favourable, 168, 169.
Strath, Gairloch, 69, 133, 164, 180, 186, 293, 294, 312, =329=, 331.
Strawberries and cherries, 224, 225.
Suidheachan Fhinn, 4.
Summer Isles, 212, 300, 356.
Sunsets, 226.
Superstitious practices and notions, 158, 159, 161.
Surnames in Gairloch, 110, 111.
Swans, wild, 254, 346.
Sweetheart's stepping-stones, 4, 342.
Tagan, 210, 221, 305, 345.
Talladale, 5, 40, 43, 60, 61, 66, 71, 79, 81, 88, 90, 92, 176, 177, 210, 221, 222, 229, 272, 273, 282, 283, 286, 293, 296, 297, 300, 301, =307=, 321, 326, 327, 332, 345, 348, 350, 361.
Talladale ironworks, 40, 79, =92=, 95.
Talladale water, 221, 307, 348.
Tar-boiling in Tollie Bay, 95.
Taylor, John, the water poet, quoted or referred to, 127, 375.
Taylors of Badachro, 109.
Telegraph, 296, 297.
Temple House, Flowerdale, 49, 51, 63, =103=.
The Gairloch, =31=, 186, 310, 399, 403.
The Glen, 26, 136, 313.
The "men," 29.
The Still, 315, 406.
Thomas Nelesoun M'Leod, a rebel, 24.
Thorisdale, or Horisdale, 5, 145, 328.
Tiends or tithes of Gairloch, 40.
Tigh Dige, =24=, 25, 26, 30, 53, =102=, 170, 310.
Tigh mo Sheanair, 186.
Tighnafaolinn, 213, 293, 321, 337.
Tobar Mhoire, 324, 413.
Tobar nan Ceann, 34.
Tombstone of John Hay, =82=, 83, 311, 331.
Tombstones of the prince and princess on Isle Maree, 10, 105, 152.
Tollie, 61, 66, 67, 71, 95, 99, 113, 167, 186, 211, 221, 297, 304, 315, 327, 330, 331, 336, 341, 349.
Tollie Croft, 70, 117, 315.
Torran nan Eun, 325.
Torran nan Tighearnan, 219.
Torridon, 4, 27, 28, 41, 42, 48, 60, 214, 220, 233, 246, 284, 285, 296, 297, 299, 322, 323, 417.
Torridon red sandstone, 273, 274, 277, 282, 284, 285, 286, 288, 289, 308, 350, 357, 358.
Tournaig, 27, 57, 63, 97, 98, 136, 148, 187, 194, 196, 221, 231, 237, 239, 246, 254, 284, 298, =319=, =320=.
Tower on Isle Maree, 8, 10, 102.
Townships, 138, 293.
Trades and employments in Gairloch, 132, 407.
Tragedy of Isle Maree, 5, 7, 127.
Trews, truis, or triubhais, 127, 128.
Trias at Loch Gruinard, =288=, =289=, 337, 357, 358.
Trossachs of Loch Maree, 316, 335.
Trout, brown or yellow, 348, 362, 363, 364, 365, 369, 397, 401.
Tulchan bishops, 64.
Turf houses, 132, 328.
Tuyere of a furnace, 91.
Uamh a Mhail, 343.
Uamh an Oir, 221, 328, 329.
Uamh an Oir, on Loch Maree. _See_ Cave of Gold.
Uamh gu do roghiann, 349.
Uamh Mhic 'ille Rhiabhaich, 27, 320.
Uamh nam Freiceadain, 24, 36, 43, 45, =98=, 328.
Udrigil House, or Udrigil, 58, 103, 203, 283, 289, 337.
Ullapool, 113, 145, 204, 205, 208, 209, 300, 321.
Unpunctuality in Gairloch, 123.
Valley of the Hundred Hills. _See_ Coire Cheud Cnoc.
Victoria Falls, =222=, 286, 309, 326, 348.
Victoria, Her Most Gracious Majesty Queen, quoted or referred to, 115, 150, 151, 222, 231, 306, 307, 308, 309, 323, 326, 346.
Vikings, 5, 7, 329.
Vision of Hector Roy and his bodyguard. _See_ Alastair Mac Iain Mhic Earchair.
Visions of redcoats and great fleet, 172, 173, 335, 338.
Vitrified fort, 98.
Volunteer corps, 113, 129, 172, 198, 297, 298, 328.
Want of cleanliness, not general, 123.
Wasps, 224, 231.
Watch at Glac na Sguithar, story of the, 51, 302.
Water-cure at the Fox Point, 159, 341.
Waterfalls in Gairloch, 221, 222, 305, 326, 327, 344, 345.
Water-kelpies, 161.
Weather in Gairloch, 223-225, 404.
Weedon, A. W., 201, 315, 358.
Well of Iain Liath. _See_ Iain Liath's well.
Well on Isle Maree, 150-157, 347, 397, 399, 403, 404, 410.
Whales, 207, 208, 211.
Whisky, illicit, 66, 134, 167, 202, 343, 348, 406.
White horse, 343.
Whiting, 143, 361.
Whittier, J. G., verses on Isle Maree, 347.
Wild-cats, 232, 238, 314.
William, Earl of Ross, 6, 11.
William Fraser, 82, 83, 179.
William Jolly. _See_ Jolly, William.
William Maclean, piper, 160, 176.
William Mackenzie, the Ceistear Crubach, 180.
William (Sir) Munro. _See_ Munro, Sir William.
William Reid, 109, 160, 244, 298.
William Roy Mackenzie, 202.
William Ross, the Gairloch bard, 101, =183=, 184, 186, 187, 189, 405.
Wilson, H. F., his Carmen Pooleviense quoted, 316.
Wilsonton ironworks, 76.
Wind made favourable by magic, 168, 169.
Wishing-tree on Isle Maree, 150, 151, 152.
Witchcraft and witches, 163-165, 170.
Wolves, 85, 237, 403.
Women industrious, 132.
Wood-pigeon, 197, 230, 248.
Woods in Gairloch, 221, 306, 310, 345, 347.
Woods of Letterewe, =77=, =79=, 344.
Woodie, =33=.
Yarrell's British Birds, =241=.
Zoological Gardens, Regent's Park, London, 238, 254.
ERRATA.
Page 1, line 2 from foot, _for_ "88" _read_ "90."
Page 61, line 16, _for_ "Bleau" _read_ "Blaeu."
Page 127, line 7, _for_ "xviii." _read_ "xx."
Page 151, line 26, _for_ "1858" _read_ "1856."
Page 185, line 15 from foot, _insert_ "as bad" _before_ "as he had."
Page 190, line 12 from foot, _for_ "Crultear" _read_ "Cruitear."
Page 214, line 18, _insert_ "Mc" _before_ "Taggart."
Page 219, line 21 from foot, _for_ "Reid" _read_ "Reidh."
Page 220, line 3, _for_ "meal" _read_ "meall."
Page 221, line 15 from foot, _for_ "South Erradale" _read_ "Opinan."
Page 229, line 26, _for_ "meal" _read_ "meall."
Page 237, line 9, _for_ "xviii." _read_ "xx."
Page 293, last line, _parenthesis should end after_ "ecclesiastical."
Page 295, line 6, _for_ "86" _read_ "89."
Page 295, line 9, _for_ "65" _read_ "55."
Page 295, line 10, _for_ "50" _read_ "30."
Page 302, line 15, _for_ "Mhannaich" _read_ "Mhanaich."
"Eilean Suthain" _should be_ "Eilean Suainne" _throughout the book_. "Suainne" _is the Gaelic form of_ "Sweyne," _probably a Norse viking, who occupied the island long ago_.
_Gaelic scholars will detect other errors and some inconsistencies in the spelling of Gaelic names. Several of these are due to the names being spelt as they would be if written in Gaelic with the article before them._
ADDENDA.
Page 132, line 17 from foot, _after_ "site" _insert_ "There are, however, two modern turf-built dwellings still to be seen at South Erradale."
Page 250, line 5, _after remarks on the_ "Knot" _insert_ "Sanderling (_Calidris arenaria_)--Not common. Mr Henry A. Clowes sent me one he shot at Sand, Gairloch, 11th September 1886."
Page 258, after line 2, _insert_ "_Crambe maritima_--Sea-kale."
Page 262, after line 44, _insert_ "_Beta maritima_--Beet."
ERRATUM
Page 58, line 19. It is erroneously stated that the present representative in this country of the Mackenzies of Letterewe is Mr John Munro Mackenzie. But the gentleman who in fact represents the family in Great Britain is Mr John Mackenzie of Auchenstewart, Wishaw, who is an older brother of Mr J.M. Mackenzie.
ERRATUM
Page 296, line 14. After "physician" _insert_ "Dr Robertson is likewise a registered medical practitioner."
* * * * *
TRANSCRIBER'S NOTES
Words in italics are marked _like this_; words in bold type are marked =like this=.
Corrections have been made throughout according to the lists of "Errata" and "Addenda" on pp. 437-439.
Several corrections have also been made in the Index, where typos have been obvious when compared with spellings in the main text.
Obvious typos and errors in punctuation (this occurs mainly in the glossary) have been silently corrected. The variation in use of full stop and capitalisation has been left unchanged.
The following corrections have been made to Gaelic words where there is an obvious typo:
1. Corrected Achadbgarbh to Achadhgarbh in glossary.
2. Corrected Coinneathadh to Coinneachadh in glossary.
3. Corrected Donnahadh na Fadach to Donnachadh na Fadach in glossary.
4. Corrected Garrbh to Garbh in glossary.
5. Corrected Promadh to Pronadh in glossary.
6. Corrected Db'fhan to Dh'fhan in Part IV Chapter IV.
"Anglicè" is sometimes italicised, sometimes not. Sometimes it is written with a grave accent, sometimes with an acute. Similarly, "Gallicé" is sometimes written without an accent. These variants have been left unchanged.
Inconsistencies in spelling and hyphenation have been retained, except where there is an obvious error.
Variants in place names and "Mac" surnames have been retained (except where there is an obvious typo). For example: "Achnashelloch" and "Achnashellach"; Macleod, MacLeod and M'Leod.
There is often confusion between oe ligatures and ae ligatures; the correct form has been adopted where an obvious error has occurred.