Gairloch in North-West Ross-Shire Its Records, Traditions, Inhabitants, and Natural History, with a Guide to Gairloch and Loch Maree, and a Map and Illustrations

The red-deer of the Highland mountains form the subject of a branch of sport largely used as a means of recreation and recuperation by many of our most busy and often overworked...

The geology of Loch Maree is unusually varied, interesting, and representative. It exhibits, in a limited area, the whole debated series of the succession of rocks in the North-...

The red deer--Free to roam--Antiquity of--Formerly scarce--Meaning of "forested"--List of deer forests--Estimated yield and stock--Stag season--A "royal"--Best heads--Hinds--Dee...

The following stories have been related to me by James Mackenzie of Kirkton, along with many traditions and facts embodied in other parts of this book. James Mackenzie is an ent...

In compiling the following list and notes I have had the valuable aid of Mr Osgood H. Mackenzie of Inverewe, who is a life-long ornithologist and observer of nature. He has spen...

To the lonely and romantic shores of the queen of Highland lochs belongs the curiously incongruous distinction of having been the scene where the new departure in iron-smelting...

When we first hear of a church in Gairloch it was dedicated, as we should naturally expect, to St Maelrubha. It was a common kirk of the canons of Ross, and stood in what is sti...

Gairloch is very deficient in remains of old buildings. In ancient times the mason's art was unknown in the district, and the erections of those days were formed of uncemented a...

The route from the Gairloch Hotel past Loch Tollie to the junction with the Tollie road is described in chap. vi. of this Part. Proceeding down the estate road past Tollie farm,...

Many years ago there lived at Craig of Gairloch an old man named Alastair Mac Iain Mhic Earchair. He was a man of great piety and respectability, and was one of those who devote...

Distinctions between different races, which depend on varieties of character, customs, or means of livelihood, require discriminating study for their apprehension. But a differe...

In the time of the Roman occupation of Great Britain the Highlands were almost destitute of agriculture. That some corn was grown is manifest, from the ancient querns or hand-mi...

The following descriptions will include all the remains of ironworks so far noticed within the parish of Gairloch, whether belonging to what we have called the ancient class, or...

Sir Kenneth Mackenzie, eldest son of Alexander, seventh laird of Gairloch, was created a baronet of Nova Scotia by Queen Anne on 2d February 1703. These baronetcies were frequen...

The stories of the various contests, extending over more than a century, during which the M'Leods were gradually expelled from Gairloch, fill a large page in the traditional his...

Salmon fishing is undoubtedly at the head of all angling, whether in Gairloch or any other part of the world. Here it may be enjoyed under very pleasurable conditions, and with...

There is no royal road to learning, and there is no "royal route" to our finest scenery. The common tourist, like the sheep, meekly follows the beaten tracks, missing the better...

The list of Gairloch birds given further on reveals a curious fact, viz., that several kinds, such as the house-sparrow, bullfinch, blackbird, and red-shank, formerly unknown or...

The name of Rudha Chailleach, the long blue point jutting into Loch Maree to the south of Ardlair, suggests the ancient belief in witchcraft, but there are no stories of witches...

The following article appeared in _Good Words_ in August 1883, and is generously contributed to this work by the author, the Rev. John M'Murtrie, lately minister of St Bernard's...

There is no town, in the ordinary acceptation of the term, in the parish of Gairloch, and there is no village that, properly speaking, bears the name of Gairloch. Of villages or...

In the hill country of every land superstition and credulity are met with. Here in Gairloch the supernatural is suggested on all sides. Weird mountain forms often veiled in murk...

As the road ascends the Achtercairn Brae the village of Strath of Gairloch is well seen. The house in the largest grove of trees is the Established church manse (Rev. D. S. Mack...

One of them is Alexander Mackenzie, of Oban, or Opinan, near Mellon Udrigil. He is called "the bard," and has composed, it is said, some good songs. He lives the ordinary life o...

One of our most eminent physicians has told me, that the North-West Highlands, especially those parts where mountain and sea air are combined, possess more restorative qualities...

The principal source of the knowledge we possess of the superstitious sacrifices of bulls and attempted cures of insanity at Isle Maree, are the minutes extracted from the recor...

Iain Ruadh Macchoinnich, or John Roy Mackenzie, third son of John Glassich, and grandson of the great Hector Roy, was a minor when his brothers died in 1566, and his lands were...

Perhaps the most common class of superstitions in Gairloch comprises those represented by or connected with "visions" or the gift of "second-sight." It is often difficult to dis...

Alexander, second son of John Roy Mackenzie, succeeded his father in 1628 as chief of Gairloch, his elder brother having died without male issue during the father's lifetime. Al...

The drives from the Kenlochewe Hotel include those to various points of interest on the county road in both directions,--_i.e._ towards Achnasheen on the one hand (Part IV., cha...

The mammals found in the parish of Gairloch are, or have been, as numerous as in any other part of the kingdom. The following list has been prepared with the assistance of Mr Os...

On the north-eastern shore of Loch Maree, about three miles above the place where the river Ewe leaves the loch, is situated Ardlair, than which no lovelier spot can be found in...

Two origins of the great house of Mackenzie, lords of Kintail, and afterwards earls of Seaforth, of whom the Gairloch family are a branch, have been propounded, and have given r...

The blessedness attributed to the nation without a history cannot be assigned to the parish of Gairloch. Although her ancient history has never been written, it is to be feared...

The Dingwall and Skye Railway was opened about 1870, and is now a branch of the Highland Railway. Before 1870 the Gairloch mail-car started from the Dingwall railway station. Th...

Of all the sea-lochs in the West Highlands, I long thought that Loch Duich, the southern branch of Loch Alsh, bore the palm on the mainland, not only as viewed from the road abo...

The road from Talladale to Gairloch passes for more than a mile through the woods which here skirt Loch Maree. Pretty peeps of the loch are obtained here and there where the tre...

The majority of the men of Gairloch are fishermen. The two sea-lochs of the parish, viz., the Gairloch and Loch Ewe, teem with the finny tribe, which are largely taken by the pe...

The progress of religion among the people of Gairloch cannot readily be traced beyond the incumbency of the Rev. Daniel Mackintosh, minister of the parish from 1773 to 1802. Sup...

1. To any of the places on the road on the south side of the Gairloch (see "Tables of distances"). Leaving the county road at the Kerry bridge, an estate road strikes off to the...

The first question that most people ask, when they hear of the ironworks in the parish of Gairloch, is,--Where did the iron that was smelted come from? The answer can only be su...

1. _To Places on the West Side of Loch Ewe._--From Poolewe Inn strike off to the left along the sea-shore. The first house beyond the inn is called Cliff House (Mr J. Mackenzie)...

Notwithstanding the introduction of Christianity in the seventh century, the revival of religion at the time of the Reformation, and later on the militant piety of the stern Cov...

Isle Maree was as sweet a spot at the end of the ninth century as it is now. A thick grove of tall trees crowded round its circular Druidical enclosure. There were noble specime...

The Celtic inhabitants of the north-west Highlands have always been enthusiastic votaries of poetry and music; indeed in time past they perhaps paid more attention to these than...

The principal sources of livelihood of the Gairloch people are their crofts and stock and their fisheries, both treated of in separate chapters. Of course a number of men have r...

An account must be given here of the ways in which the different parts of the parish of Gairloch came into the hands of the present proprietors. It shall be brief. Some notes on...

Isle Maree, or Innis, or Inch, or Eilean Maree, is, as it were, the eye of Loch Maree. From either end of the loch it arrests the gaze of the spectator, and seems almost to look...

Leaving Poolewe we follow the county road over Poolewe bridge, behind Pool House, and along the shore of the bay that forms the head of Loch Ewe. Notice the picturesque pool in...

The scientist tells us that every drop of water, fresh or salt, and every portion of the air we breathe, teems with living organisms. The phosphorescence of the sea is due to in...

It is impossible to fix the exact date when a post was established to Gairloch; it was probably some time in the latter half of the eighteenth century. In 1730 letters from Inve...

Its area is stated by the Director of the Ordnance Survey to be 217,849 acres, _i.e._ fully 340 square miles. The three proprietors state the acreages of their estates (so far a...

Besides Loch Maree there are many other fresh-water lochs within the parish of Gairloch; they are enumerated in Part III., chap. i. Those which are within deer forests or grouse...

That Hector Roy Mackenzie, the great founder of the Gairloch family, and his son John Glassich Mackenzie, had pipers among their followers is certain; but nothing is recorded of...

It is an invidious task to criticise the general characters of one's neighbours. "Charity thinketh no evil," but it cannot be blind to obvious faults. Sentimental predilections...

It is matter of regret that no adequate herbarium has been prepared for Gairloch. With the aid of Lady Mackenzie of Gairloch, Mrs Fowler of Inverbroom, Mr O. H. Mackenzie, Mr A....

It is difficult to tell how the M'Leods came to Gairloch. It is not impossible that their claim to it may have dated back to the times of the Norse Vikings, from one of whom, tr...

John Mackenzie, piper, poet, and author, is best remembered as having been the collector and editor of the work entitled the "Beauties of the Gaelic Language." He was born 17th...

1. _To Mellon Charles._--After leaving Aultbea Inn the road crosses the burn, which gives its name to the place, and after passing the post-office, and further on the Free churc...

Leaving the village of Kenlochewe we see the Torridon road striking off to the left. A mile further on the road crosses a burn, whose bed is composed of fragments of white quart...

William Mackenzie, the Gairloch and Loch Broom catechist, was commonly called "An Ceistear Crubach," or "the lame catechist," owing to his being lame of a leg. He was a native o...

Before the M'Leods got possession of Gairloch a tribe of MacBeaths were the most powerful sept in the district. They originally came (presumably in the thirteenth century) from...

The north-west Highlands of Scotland are a favourite resort of many anglers. Here the accomplished veteran of the gentle art can find full scope for his consummate skill, and th...

This famous bard of Gairloch is remembered in his native parish as Alastair Buidhe Mac Iamhair, or the "yellow-haired Alexander M'Iver." The surname Campbell is called M'Iver in...

No traveller can claim even a moderate acquaintance with the parish of Gairloch unless he has acquired some knowledge of her Highland population. This part of our book is design...

It will be remembered that Donald, Lord of the Isles, laid claim to and took possession of the earldom of Ross. This was about the beginning of the fifteenth century. It was pro...

This is indeed the mode of entering Gairloch by road most generally adopted. The traveller usually reaches Achnasheen by rail. No time-tables will be given in this book. Trains,...

Alexander Grant, known as "Bard mor an t' Slaggan," or "the great bard of Slaggan," was born at Mellon Charles about 1742. His ancestor came to Gairloch from Strathspey, as atte...

Many visitors to Gairloch, and not a few of the inhabitants, will learn with astonishment that the manufacture of iron was carried on in the parish from remote times, and that t...

There is little but trouble and misfortune to be recorded as regards the immediate successors of the great Hector Roy. His eldest son, Iain Glassich, was a minor at the time of...

Up to the middle of the seventeenth century Gairloch seems to have been a continual battlefield. As to Kenlochewe, it was so often ravaged, and its population so frequently deci...

It is a singular fact that the first six lairds of Kintail (counting with them Angus Mac Mhathain) had each but one lawful son, so that the family of Mackenzie, now so numerous,...

ironworks; probably the iron-smelters consumed all that was conveniently near the scenes of their operations. In the neighbourhood of all the remains of ironworks in Gairloch ar...

There are very pleasant expeditions to be made by boat on the Gairloch, not only by anglers but by those who wish to explore this fine bay and its interesting shores and islands...

William Ross, known as "the Gairloch bard," was born at Broadford, Skye, in 1762. His mother was a native of Gairloch, and daughter of the celebrated blind piper and poet Iain D...

It is true that the excessive fishing which followed on the opening of the Loch Maree Hotel at Talladale has to some extent injured the angler's chances, especially by diminishi...

There are few, if any, traces of the existence of artistic knowledge or skill to be met with in the history of Gairloch or among her inhabitants. True some of the ancient weapon...

The excursions from the Loch Maree Hotel at Talladale, so far as _terra firma_ is concerned, are principally to points along either section of the county road in the directions...

bay of Corree, or Ob a Choir 'I, in the summer of 1878, when I was fishing along with a friend. This splendid fish weighed 21 lbs. when we got it to the nearest railway station,...

mountains round the head of the loch. Beinn Lair, broken off towards the north-east in a series of remarkable precipices, is the central object (_see illustration, page 54_); wh...

The present series of Scottish ironworks commenced on Loch Maree--The licence to Archibald Primrose for making iron ratified in 1612--Spread of the iron industry in the eighteen...

Short Account of James Mackenzie--William Roy Mackenzie and the exciseman--Kenneth and John Mackenzie of Rona and the press-gang--John M'Gregor of Londubh escapes from the press...

The following minerals were obtained in the localities mentioned, but the list is very incomplete. Time has not permitted of analyses being made of many samples, but such are no...

Murchadh Riabhach na Cuirce--Slays Mac Iain Dhuibh M'Leod--Ruaridh Mac Allan M'Leod assassinates Iain Mac Ghille Challum M'Leod and his sons by Janet Mackenzie--John Roy revenge...

CHAPTER PAGE I. Gairloch of the Present Day 293 II. Approaches and Roads 299 III. Achnasheen to Kenlochewe 301 IV. Kenlochewe to Talladale 305 V. Talladale to the Gairloch Hotel...

John Roy resembled his grandfather Hector--His youth--Visits his mother, wife of Mackay--Goes with a bodyguard to Iain Liath at Glas Leitire--Lord Kintail abandons his hunt on t...

Rudha Chailleach--Witchcraft and magic still believed in--Jessie the cripple, a witch--Depriving milk of its fruit--Kenlochewe case in presbytery records--Kenneth Mackenzie, the...

Salmon rivers--The Ewe--Cruives--The old cruive used for crossing the river--Roderick Campbell and an American merchant drowned--The new cruive--Gradual diminution of stock of s...

Sir Kenneth, eighth laird of Gairloch--M.P. for Ross-shire--Sir Alexander, ninth laird of Gairloch--Builds Flowerdale--The "Forty-five"--Murder of the Gille Buidhe, valet to Pri...

Alastair Breac, a renowned warrior--Raids of cattle lifters--Iain Geal Donn proposes a raid on Gairloch--Alastair Buidhe Mackay intercepts him at Scardroy--Slays him and all his...

Ardlair--The cave of the king's son--Old Oighrig and her son Kenneth--The goat Earba nourishes Ewan in the cave--Flora and Ewan come to Letterewe--Ewan's sword and mantle of sta...

Distinction between visions and second-sight--Old Alastair's vision of Hector Roy and his bodyguard--A young man sees a ghost--Two men see a woman in a house--Spectre seen befor...

Birds, formerly rare in Gairloch, now plentiful, and _vice versâ_--Dr Mackenzie's remarks on this point--Eagles in Gairloch--Anecdote of Craig-Tollie eagle and roe deer--Confirm...

First church in Gairloch--Other early ecclesiastical buildings--Rector of Gairloch at date of Reformation--Presbyterianism--Tulchan bishops--Changes from Episcopalianism to Pres...

Two origins of the family of Mackenzie--The Cabar Feidh--Angus Mac Mhathain--Kenneth, first lord of Kintail--John, second lord, shelters Robert Bruce--Kenneth of the Nose--Kenlo...

Vision of the great chief and his bodyguard--His appearance and valour--Obtains charter to Gairloch--Slays three M'Leods at "the Gairloch"--The battle of Park--Hector Roy and Bi...

Gaelic called Irish--Gairloch dialect--Not dying out--Knowledge of English increasing--Old people still unable to speak English--Gaelic phrases in English--Gaelic literature in...

Road to north end of Loch Maree--Opinions of the scenery--Leading characteristics--Tollie pier--Fox Point--Clearness of water--Sweetheart's stepping-stones--Fhridh Dhorch--Ardla...

Kenlochewe--Gairloch--Description in protocol of 1494--Description in retour of 1566--Description in 1638--Names in Dutch map of 1662--Second half of the water of Ewe bought in...

Want of interesting remains of ancient buildings--Supposed Druidical remains in Tollie wood--Druidical enclosure on Isle Maree--The Island of Justice--Pictish round houses--Vitr...

Highlanders' surroundings suggest superstition--Gradual diminution of it--Older superstitions--Loch Maree water cure--The Fox Point--Coins found--The Cathair mor and Sitheanan D...

Improvement after the "Forty-five"--Increase of schools--Report on educational position of the people by Rev. James Russell--Education under the School Boards--Relief of the poo...

Long controversy--Attack by eminent geologists--Others enter the lists--Prospect of early peace--Conditions of the problem well exhibited round Loch Maree--Succession of rocks--...

The Siol Torquil--Claim to Gairloch--Legal title commenced 1430--MacBeaths expelled--The Tigh Dige--Strongholds of the M'Leods--Eilean Ruaridh--Allan M'Leod, laird of Gairloch--...

Two classes of remains of ironworks--Rev. Donald M'Nicol's statement--Coin found near old Yorkshire ironworks--Iron implements used by ancient inhabitants--Disappearance of them...

Road through woods--The Victoria Falls--Garavaig ironworks--Slatadale farm--Old road to west of Craig Tollie--View of the islands of Loch Maree--Feur loch--Loch Bad na Sgalaig--...

Achtercairn--Views of Strath and the hills of Skye--Deep gorge--Geikie on geology of a curious hill--The Shoe-stone--Funeral heaps--Lochan nan Airm--The Glen--Craig Bhadain an A...

Scene laid in Isle Maree--The hermit saint--Prince Olaf--His fiery temper--Falls in love--Brings his bride to Isle Maree--Is compelled to leave her on an expedition--The white a...

References to local iron ore--Local bog iron used at ancient bloomeries--Ferruginous rocks and shales--Traditional quarries--Richness of bog iron--Places where it is still found...

Little agriculture in ancient days--Black cattle--Blood taken from living cattle--The bowmen--Hill shielings miserable places--Introduction of sheep farming--Sheep farms foreste...

The Mackays--Rorie Mackay, piper to John Roy Mackenzie--Alastair Breac, and his son and grandson--His brother Donald--John Mackay, the blind piper--Taught by the M'Crimmons--Pip...

Dingwall and Skye railway--The Gairloch mail-car--Natural terraces like railway embankments--Loch Rosque--Remains of ancient ironworks--The Clach an t' Shagart at Bad a Mhanaich...

Mr Macadam's description of two classes of slag--List of six localities of ironworks--Glen Dochartie--Fasagh--Analyses--Lochan Cul na Cathrach--Furnace, Letterewe--Talladale--Ga...

Druidical sacrifices engrafted on Christianity--Resort to Isle Maree for cure of lunacy probably ancient--Parallel superstitions--Bull sacrifice at Kirkcudbright--Sacrifices of...

Isle Maree conspicuous--The wishing-tree--Her Majesty's offering--St Maelrubha permitted sacrifices of bulls--Continued to 1678--Latterly associated with cure of insanity--Treat...

No town in Gairloch--List of townships or hamlets--Ministers and services--Free churches and ministers--Schools--School Board--Table of Schools, with average attendance--List of...

Permission required--Trout scarcer than formerly--Dr Mackenzie accounts for this--The tarry sheep--Fionn Loch--Angling deteriorated--Good day's angling--The Dubh loch--Three tro...

Criticism invidious--Gairloch people have a good character--Fidelity, courtesy, and hospitality--Sir G. S. Mackenzie's opinion--Sir Francis Mackenzie's tribute to his Gairloch p...

No records of Episcopal times--Sunday services--Baptism--The Lord's supper dispensed in the Leabaidh na Ba Bàine--Dr Mackenzie's account of churchgoing and the communions--Johnn...

The Macraes settle in Kintail--Become Mackenzie's "shirt of mail"--The sons of Fortune--Assist in conquest of Gairloch--List of Macraes who fought for Gairloch--Effigy of Donald...

Alexander Mackenzie, of Oban--Duncan Mackenzie, the Kenlochewe bard--Short memoir--His poetry--His epithalamium on the marriage of Sir Kenneth Mackenzie--Translation of it by Pr...

Drives--Expedition to Loch Torridon--Cromasaig--Fe Leoid--Loch Clair--Maelrubha's seat--Carn Anthony--Coire Cheud Cnoc--Precipices of Liathgach--Her Majesty's remarks--Sguir Dub...

Ancient bards an illustrious class--Ossian's poems--Office of bard or seannachie--Bards of recent date--Ceilidh--Antiquity of bagpipes--Office of piper in old days--In the prese...

Alastair Buidhe's ancestry and youth--Appointed ground-officer and bard to Sir Hector--Instructed to remove the roof from a defaulting tenant's house--His prudent artifice appro...

Gairloch fishermen and fish--Herring fisheries--Lobsters and crabs--Oysters--Gairloch cod fishery--Under Sir Alexander Mackenzie, 1721 to 1766--In 1792--Sir G. S. Mackenzie's ac...

Healthy climate of north-west Highlands--Changeable weather--Sir G. S. Mackenzie on the climate--Dr Mackenzie on the old-fashioned summers--Former abundance of nuts--Strawberrie...

Macdonalds, clansmen of Donald of the Isles--Probably some settled in Gairloch--Still in Gairloch and Alligin--Mac Gille Riabhaich--His cave--Story of his oak cudgel--The soubri...

John's ancestry and youth--His mechanical skill--An accident disables him--Collects Gaelic poems--Devotes himself to literary work--List of books he translated--Known as a poet...

West side of Loch Ewe--Cliff House--Cuil an Scardain--Boor-- Views--Naast--Inverasdale--Brae--Midtown--Coast--Board school--Firemore--Telegraph to Stornoway--Meallan na Ghamhna-...

Absence of ancient records--Giants in those days--Fingalian legends--Condition of Pictish aborigines--Their houses and implements--Druids--Roman invasion--Pictish monarchy--Intr...

MacBeaths from Assynt--Some still in Gairloch--Had several strongholds--Lochan nan Airm--Kintail men come to Loch Tollie--Shoot MacBeath's servant on the island--MacBeath flies-...

William Mackenzie a catechist--His song to Balone's sister--His song lampooning a wedding party--His consequent dismissal--Malcolm Maclean a notorious bacchanalian--His beautifu...

Tagan farm--Glas Leitire woods--Ru Nohar--Umbrella-like firs--Her Majesty's description of the road--Glen Grudidh--Old fir trees--Eilean Grudidh--Wild stretch of road described...

The south side of Gairloch--Shieldaig--Leac nan Saighead--Badachro--Loch Bad na h' Achlais--Port Henderson--Opinan--Cave--South Erradale--Ancient ironworks--Point--Views--North...

John Glassich brought up in Strathglass--Claims Kintail--Refuses to join the royal standard--Apprehended by Kenneth of Kintail--Iain Gearr's pluck--Death of John Glassich--Donal...

Post-runners to Gairloch--Dr Mackenzie's account--Donald Charles--Roderick M'Lennan--William Cross--M'Leay--Iain Mor am Post--General Wade's road--Bridges in Gairloch--Road from...

The pool--Srondubh--Inverewe House and gardens--Description from the _Times_--Loch nan Dailthean--Tournaig--The Dowager Lady Mackenzie's residence--Description of the garden fro...