Part 57

The eldest hand begins by leading any card he pleases, and if he has those in sequence and suit with it and above it, he continues to play until he fails. He then says “No six,” or whatever the card may be that he stops on. The next player on his left then continues the sequence if he can, or if he cannot, he says, “No six,” also, and it passes to the next player. If no one can continue, the card must be in the stock, which remains on the table face down and unseen. When one sequence _is_ stopped in this manner, the last player has the right to begin another with any card he pleases.

The object of the game is twofold; to get rid of all the cards before any other player does so, and to get rid of the cards which appear on the layout. If the duplicate of any of those cards can be played, the holder of the card at once takes all the money staked upon it; but if he fails to get rid of it before some player wins the game by getting rid of all his cards, the player who is found with one of the layout cards in his hand at the end must double the amount staked on that card, to which the next dealer will add the usual contribution.

The player who first gets rid of all his cards collects from the other players a counter for every card they hold. These cards must be exposed face up on the table, so that all may see who has to double the various pools. If any of the layout cards are in the stock, the pool simply remains, without doubling.

There are a great many variations of Pope Joan. Sometimes a layout very similar to that in Matrimony is used, Pope taking the place of Pair, and Game that of Best. A trump is turned by the dealer, and Matrimony is King and Queen of trumps, Intrigue Queen and Jack of trumps, Confederacy, King and Jack of trumps. The player holding these cards will of course be able to play both of them if he can play one in a sequence, and will take the pool for the combination. If he holds one card and another player holds the other, they divide the pool. If one of the cards is in the stock, the pool remains. In some places it is the custom to remove the Eight of diamonds, as at Commit, to form an extra and known stop. The player first getting rid of his cards takes the pool on Game, and the holder of Pope takes that pool if he can get rid of the card in the course of play, if not, he must double the pool, just as with the honours in trumps.

NEWMARKET, OR STOPS.

This game, which is sometimes called Boodle, is Pope Joan without the pope. The four cards forming the layout are the ♡A, ♣K, ♢Q, ♠J; but there is no ♢7. The dealer names any number of counters that he is willing to stake, which must be at least four, and each player at the table must stake a similar amount. The counters are placed on the layout to suit the players, either all upon one card, or distributed among the four. The cards are dealt as at Pope Joan, and the same number must be left in the talon.

Instead of the player being at liberty to begin a sequence with any card he pleases, he must begin with the lowest card in his hand of the suit which he selects. He is not restricted as to suit, but must play all he has in sequence, and then name the card that he fails on. If a new sequence is opened by any player, he must play the lowest card of the suit in his hand.

If, in the course of play, any of the four cards on the layout can be got rid of, the player holding them takes the pool on that card. If he is left with the card in his hand at the end he is not obliged to double the pool, as at Pope Joan, but simply loses his chance to win it, and it remains until the next deal. The first player to get rid of all his cards receives one counter from the other players for each card they hold.

_=SPIN=_ is Newmarket, with one variation. The player holding the diamond ace is allowed to play it in order to get the privilege of stopping one suit and opening another. For instance: The sequence in spades has run to the Nine, and one player holds both spade Ten and diamond ace. If this player saw that another was very likely to win the game at any moment, and he had a pool card to play, he might stop the spade sequence by playing both the Ten and the diamond ace together, announcing _=Spin=_. He can then play a pool card, or begin a new sequence with the lowest of the suit in his hand. He cannot play the diamond ace unless he can play to the sequence first.

_=SARATOGA.=_ This varies from Newmarket only in the method of making up the pool. Instead of leaving the players to distribute their stakes at pleasure, each is compelled to place an agreed amount on each of the pool cards, as at Pope Joan.

POCHEN.

This is a round game for any number of players from three to six, with a thirty-two-card pack. The layout has a centre division for pools and seven other divisions round it, marked, respectively, A, K, Q, J, 10, Marriage, Sequence. Each player dresses the layout by placing a counter in each of the eight divisions. The dealer then gives cards three and then two at a time, as far as they will go equally, turning up the next for the trump.

The holders of the five highest trumps show them and take the corresponding pools, Ace of trumps the A pool, etc. If any player holds both K and Q of trumps, he takes the pool for marriage. The player holding the highest and longest sequence in any suit takes the pool for sequence; but the sequence must be at least three cards. Pools not won remain until the next deal.

After the pools round the edge are all decided, the players bet for the centre pool, or pochen. Any player with a pair, or three of a kind, wishing to bet on them, puts as many counters as he pleases into the centre pool, and any player willing to bet against him must put in a like amount. There is no raising these bets, and the players in order to the left of the dealer have the first say as to betting, or passing. The higher pair wins. Threes beat pairs, and four of a kind is the best hand possible.

This pool settled, the play of the cards follows. Eldest hand leads any card he pleases and each in turn to the left must follow in sequence and suit, playing the 10 on the 9, the J on the 10, etc., until the K is reached. The player who has the King, or the highest card, if the King is in the stock, starts again with any card he pleases. Any player who cannot continue the sequence in his turn must pass that round.

As soon as one player gets rid of his last card the game is at an end and every player at the table must pay him a counter for each card held. The deal then passes to the left and the layout is dressed for the next hand.

RANTER GO ROUND.

This is a round game for any number of players who make up a pool or stake to be played for. A full pack of fifty-two cards is used and each player has three markers. The dealer gives one card to each, face down. This card is examined and if it is not satisfactory it is passed to the player on the left, the object being to avoid holding the lowest card at the table.

If the player on the left holds any card but a king, he is obliged to exchange. If the one who is forced to exchange gives an ace or a deuce, he announces it; but the player who demands the exchange is not allowed to say what he gives, as the card may be passed on. Each player in turn to the left may exchange, or he may pass, which means that he is satisfied with his card.

When it comes round to the dealer, he cannot exchange; but he may cut the pack and take the top card. All the cards are then turned face up, and the lowest shown loses a counter. The deal passes to the left. When all the players but one have lost all their markers, the survivor takes the pool.

FIVE OR NINE.

This game, which is sometimes called Domino Whist, is simply Pope Joan or Matrimony without the layout. Any number of persons may play, and the full pack of fifty-two cards is used, the cards being dealt in proportion to the number of players, as at Pope Joan.

The eldest hand must begin by laying out the Five or Nine of some suit to start the first sequence. If he has neither of those cards he must pass, and the first player on his left who has a Five or a Nine must begin. The next player on the left must then continue the sequence in the same suit if he can, but he may play either up or down, laying the card on the right or left of the starter. If a Five is led, he may play a Four or a Six. Only one card is played at a time by each person in turn. Any person not being able to continue the sequence may start another if he has another Five, but he cannot start one with a Nine unless the first starter in the game was a Nine. He is also at liberty to start a new sequence with a Five or Nine instead of continuing the old, but he must play if he can, one or the other. If he is unable to play, he must pay one counter into the pool, which is won by the first player who gets rid of all his cards. The winner is also paid a counter for every card held by the other players.

FAN TAN.

This is the simplest form of Stops, and requires no layout. Any number of players can take part, and a full pack of fifty-two cards is used. The players cut for deal and seats, low having the choice. Ace is low. The players are provided with an equal number of counters, and before the cards are dealt, each places an agreed number in the pool. All the cards are dealt out. If some have more than others it does not matter.

The eldest hand begins by playing any card he pleases, and the next player on his left must either play the card next above it, or put one counter in the pool. Only one card is played at a time, and after the sequence has arrived at the King it must be continued with the ace, and go on until the suit is exhausted. The person who plays the thirteenth card of any suit must start another sequence, in any suit and with any card he pleases. The player who first gets rid of all his cards takes the pool.

The great trick in this game is to provide for the last suit to be played, and in order to have the selection of the second suit it is usual for the eldest hand to begin with the higher of two cards next in value to each other, which will make him the last player in that suit. Each suit is turned face down as it is exhausted.

SOLITAIRE.

All games of Solitaire are played with the full pack of fifty-two cards. The games may be roughly divided into two classes; those in which the result is entirely dependent on chance, and cannot be changed by the player after the cards have been shuffled and cut; and those which present opportunities for judgment and skill, the choice of several ways to the same end being offered to the player at various stages of the game. The first class is of course the simplest, but the least satisfactory, as it is nothing more than a game of chance.

Of the many hundreds of patience games, it is possible to give only a few of the best known.

_=TAKE TEN.=_ Shuffle and cut the cards, and deal out thirteen face upward in two rows of five each, and one row of three. Any two cards, the pip value of which equals 10, may be withdrawn from the tableau, and others dealt from the top of the pack in their places. Only two cards may be used to form a 10. The K Q J 10 of each suit must be lifted together, none of these cards being touched until all four of the same suit are on the table together. When no cards can be lifted, the game is lost.

The object in most patience games is to arrange the cards in sequences. An ascending sequence is one in which the cards run from A 2 3 up to the King; and a descending sequence is one in which they run down to the ace. Sequences may be formed of one suit or of mixed suits, according to the rules of the game.

_=THE CARPET.=_ Shuffle and cut the pack. Deal out twenty cards in four rows of five cards each, face up. This is the carpet. Any aces found in it are taken out and used to form a fifth row, either at the bottom or the side. The holes made in the carpet by removing the aces are then filled up from the pack. Cards are then taken from the carpet to build upon the aces in ascending sequence, following suit, and the holes in the carpet are continually filled up with fresh cards from the top of the pack. As other aces appear they are laid aside to start the sequence in the suit to which they belong. When you are stopped, deal the cards remaining in the pack in a pile on the table by themselves, face upward. If any card appears which can be used in the ascending sequences, take it, and if this enables you to make more holes in the carpet, do so. But after having been driven to deal this extra pile, holes in the carpet can no longer be filled from the pack; they must be patched up with the top cards on the extra pile until it is exhausted.

_=FOUR OF A KIND.=_ Shuffle and cut the pack, then deal out thirteen cards face down in two rows of five each and one row of three. Deal on the top of these until the pack is exhausted, which will give you four cards in each pile, face down. Imagine that these piles represent respectively the A 2 3 4 5 in the first row; the 6 7 8 9 10 in the second, and the J Q K in the third. Take the top card from the ace pile, turn it face upward, and place it, still face upward, under the pile to which it belongs. If it is a Jack, for instance, it will go face up under the first pile in the third row. Then take the top card from the second pile, and so on, keeping the left hand as a marker on the pile last drawn from. When you come to a pile which is complete, all the cards being face up, you can skip it, and go on to the next. If at the end you find that the last card to be turned up lies on its proper pile, and needs turning over only, you win; but if you have to remove it to another pile, you lose.

_=TRY AGAIN.=_ Shuffle and cut the pack, and deal the cards face upward into four heaps. You are not obliged to deal to each pile in succession, but may place the cards on any of the four piles, according to your judgment or pleasure. In dealing out in this manner it is not good policy to cover one card with a higher, unless you are compelled to do so. Every time you come to an ace, separate it from the others, placing it in a new row, as a foundation for an ascending sequence, which may be continued regardless of the suit of the cards used. The top cards of the four piles are used to build up the sequence. After an ace has appeared, the player may examine the cards in any or all of the piles, but their order must not be disturbed. The object in looking at the cards is to select the pile which is least likely to stop you, or the one having the fewest cards in it.

_=TAKE FOURTEEN.=_ Shuffle and cut the pack, and deal the cards one at a time, face upward, into twelve piles, and continue dealing on the top of these twelve until the pack is exhausted. This will give you four piles which contain one card more than the others. Then take off any two of the top cards which will make 14, reckoning the Jack as 11, the Queen as _12_ and the King as 13, all the others at their face value. Only two cards must be used to make 14. If you succeed in taking off all the cards in this manner, you win. You are at liberty to look at the underneath cards in the various piles, but you must not disturb their positions.

_=HELP YOUR NEIGHBOUR.=_ Take from the pack the four aces, and lay them face upward on the table in a row. These are to be built upon in ascending sequences, following suit. Shuffle and cut the remaining forty-eight cards, and deal off four starters in a row, below the aces. These cards are to be built down on, in descending sequence, regardless of suit. The remainder of the pack is then taken in the left hand, and the cards turned up one by one from the top. Any card which can be used to build up on the ace row, or down on the second row, is placed on its proper pile at once. If the card is unavailable for either purpose, it must be placed in a separate and ninth pile, known as the talon, or deadwood. The ascending sequences may be built up from any of the three sources; cards from the top of the pack, those on the top of the various descending sequences, or those on the top of the deadwood.

The top card in any descending sequence may be moved from one pile to another, or a card may be taken from an ascending sequence and placed on a descending, always provided that such a card continues the sequence in the pile to which it is removed. If any of the piles occupied by the descending sequences are exhausted, new cards may be placed there at any time the player thinks fit. Such new piles may be started from the pack, from the deadwood, or from any other pile.

KLONDIKE.

This game is sometimes mistakenly called “Canfield”, but that is a distinct game, described elsewhere, in which there are separate piles for stock and foundations.

Shuffle the full pack of fifty-two cards, cut and turn up the top card. Lay six more cards in a row to the right of the first card, but all face down. Upon the second card of this row place another card face up, and then cards face down on the remaining five of the top row. On the third pile from the left, place another card face up, and then four more face down to the right. Continue this until you have seven cards face up, which will give you twenty-eight cards in your layout.

Take out any aces showing, and place them in a row by themselves for “foundations.” Build up on these aces in sequence and suit to kings. On the layout, build in descending sequence, red on black, black on red, turning up the top card when any pile is left without a faced card upon it. If there is more than one card face up on any pile, they must be removed together or not at all. Spaces may be filled only with kings.

The stock is run off three cards at a time, and any card showing can be used. The pack can be run through in this manner until no cards showing can be used, but there must be no shuffling or rearrangement of the cards. Sometimes it is the rule to run through the pack once only, turning up one card at a time.

The object of the game is to see how many cards can be built on the ace row. A better average can usually be obtained when the pack is run off three at a time with the privilege of running through again and again as long as any card can be used.

FORTUNE TELLING.

Whatever the arrangement employed for laying out the tableau in fortune telling, the result of the reading will always be dependent on the person’s ability to string together in a connected story the meanings which are attached to the various cards. According to Eittella, the father of all fortune telling, only 32 cards should be used, and it is essential that they should be single heads, because a court card standing firmly on its feet is a very different thing from one standing on its head. If single-head cards are not at hand, the lower part of the double-head cards must be cancelled in some manner.

The following are the interpretations of the various cards, the initial _=R=_ meaning that the card is reversed, or standing on its head.

_=HEARTS.=_ Ace. The house, or home.

King. A benefactor. _=R.=_ He will not be able to do you much good, although he means well.

Queen. Everything that is lovely in woman. _=R.=_ You will have to wait awhile for the realization of your hopes.

Jack. A person who may be useful to you. _=R.=_ He will not prove of much account.

Ten. A pleasant surprise.

Nine. Reconciliation.

Eight. Children.

Seven. A good marriage. _=R.=_ Fair to middling.

_=CLUBS.=_ Ace. Profits from business or gambling.

King. A just man, who has taken a fancy to you. _=R.=_ Something will interfere with his good intentions.

Queen. Your best girl. _=R.=_ She is jealous.

Jack. A probable marriage. _=R.=_ It may have to be postponed.

Ten. Success in business. If followed by ♢ 9, the note will not be paid when it is due; if followed by the ♠ 9 you will lose the entire account.

Nine. Success in love.

Eight. Great anticipations.

Seven. Trifling love affairs. _=R.=_ They will get you into trouble.

_=DIAMONDS.=_ Ace. A letter, or a written notice.

King. A person to beware of. _=R.=_ Will annoy you in any case.

Queen. A shrew or gossip. _=R.=_ She will make you tired.

Jack. A bearer of bad news. _=R.=_ Worse than you expected.

Ten. An unexpected journey.

Nine. That expected money will not come to hand.

Eight. Some surprising actions on the part of a young man.

Seven. Success in lotteries, gambling or speculation. _=R.=_ The amount will be very small.

_=SPADES.=_ Ace. Love affairs.

King. Police or sheriffs. _=R.=_ Loss of a lawsuit.

Queen. A gay and deceptive widow. _=R.=_ She’s fooling thee.

Jack. Disagreeable young man. _=R.=_ He will do you an injury or injustice of some kind.

Ten. Prison.

Nine. Vexatious delays in business matters.

Eight. Bad news. If followed by the ♢ 7, quarrels.

Seven. Quarrels which will be lasting unless the card is followed by some hearts. _=R.=_ Family rows.

_=COMBINATIONS.=_ 4 aces, death; 3 aces, dissipation; 2 aces, enmity.

4 Kings, honours; 3 Kings, success in business; 2 Kings, good advice.

4 Queens, scandal; 3 Queens, dissipation; 2 Queens, friendship.

4 Jacks, contagious diseases; 3 Jacks, idleness; 2 Jacks, quarrels.

4 Tens, disagreeable events; 3 Tens, change of residence; 2 Tens, loss.

4 Nines, good actions; 3 Nines, imprudence; 2 Nines, money.

4 Eights, reverses in business or love; 3 Eights, marriage; 2 Eights, trouble.

4 Sevens, intrigues; 3 Sevens, pleasure; 2 Sevens, small affairs and gossip.

_=THE CONSULTATION.=_ There are several ways of telling fortunes, but one example will suffice. The most important thing is to know what your client wants to be told, and the next is to be sure that she cuts the cards with her left hand.

The cards are shuffled, presented to be cut, and then counted off into sevens, every seventh card being laid face up on the table, the six intermediates being placed on the bottom of the pack each time. When twelve cards have been obtained in this manner, they are laid out in a row, and examined to see if the card representing the questioner is among them. If not, they must be gathered, shuffled, cut, and dealt again. A married man with light hair would be the ♢ K, with dark hair, the ♣ K. If he claims to be single, the ♡ J. If your client is a woman, the ♡ Q will do for blondes, the ♣ Q for brunettes. Do not ask if she is married, and take no notice of rings.

Having obtained the necessary twelve cards, the more you know about the consultant’s history, hopes, and prospects, and the better you can judge her character, the less attention you need pay to the cards, and the more satisfactory the result of the consultation will be. It is not necessary to stick too closely to the meanings of the cards, nor to their combinations; the great thing is to tell your client what she wants to hear.

In order to confirm the truth of the pleasing story you have built upon the twelve cards, they must be gathered together, shuffled, presented to be cut with the left hand, and then divided into four packets of three cards each. The first packet is for the Person, the second for the House, the third for the Future, and the fourth for the Surprise. Each packet is successively turned up, and its contents interpreted in connection with the part of the questioner’s life which it represents. In case there should be nothing very surprising in the last pack, it is well to have a few generalities on hand, which will be true of a person’s future six times out of ten. The expert at fortune telling has a stock of vague suggestions, supposed to be given by the cards, which are so framed as to draw from the client the drift of her hopes and fears. The scent once found, most of the fortune telling is in the nature of confirming the client’s own views of the situation. Nevertheless, when well done, by a good talker, fortune telling is very amusing, especially in a small company.

BANKING GAMES.