Part 5

First, jack up the wheel clear of the road. The valve cap should be unscrewed, the lock nut removed and the valve stem pushed into the tire until its bead is flush with the rim. This done, loosen up the head of the shoe in the clinch of the rim by working and pushing with the hands, then insert one of the tire irons or levers under the beads. The tire iron should be pushed in just enough to get a good hold on the under side of the bead, but not so far as to "pinch" the inner tube between the rim and the tool. A second iron should be inserted in the same fashion some seven or eight inches from the first, and the third tool the same distance from the second. As a clincher tire must be pried over the clinch, three levers will come in handy in a case of a "one-man job," and the knee of the driver can be used to good advantage to hold down one lever while the other two are being manipulated in working the shoe clear of the rim. After freeing a length of the bead from the clinch, the entire outer edge of the casing may be readily detached with the hands, and the damaged inner tube removed and "patched" or a spare tube inserted. Always use plenty of soapstone in replacing an inner tube.

_How are Casings repaired?_ _Answer No. 105_

Should the casing be cut so there is danger of the inner tube being blown through it, a temporary repair can be made by cementing a canvas patch on the inside of the casing. Before applying the patch the part of the casing affected should be cleaned with gasoline and when dry, rubber cement applied to both casing and patch. This will answer as an emergency repair--but the casing should be vulcanized at the first opportunity.

To prolong the life of the tire casings, any small cuts in the tread should be filled with patching cement and a specially prepared "plastic" sold by the tire companies.

_How may Tire Expense be reduced?_ _Answer No. 106_

Tire cost constitutes one of the most important items in the running expenses of an automobile. To get the most service at the least expense, the tires should be inspected frequently and all small cuts or holes properly sealed or repaired--thus preventing dirt and water working in between the rubber tread and the fabric, causing blisters or sand boils.

Tires should never be run partially deflated, as the side walls are unduly bent and the fabric is subject to stresses which cause what is known as rim cutting. The chances of getting a puncture will be greatly reduced by keeping your tires properly inflated, as a hard tire exposes much less surface to the road than a soft tire, and also deflects sharp objects that would penetrate a soft tire.

Running a tire flat, even for a short distance, is sure to be costly. Better run on the rim, very slowly and carefully, rather than on a flat tire.

Remember that fast driving and skidding shorten the life of the tires. Avoid locking the wheels with the brakes--no tire will stand the strain of being dragged over the pavement in this fashion.

Avoid running in street car tracks, in ruts, or bumping the sides of the tire against the curbing.

The wheel rims should be painted each season and kept free from rust. When a car is idle for any appreciable length of time, it should be jacked up to take the load off the tires. If the car is laid up for many months it is best to remove the tires, and wrap up the outer casings and inner tubes separately, and store them in a dark room not exposed to extreme temperatures. Remove oil or grease from the tires with gasoline. Remember that heat, light and oil are three natural enemies of rubber.

_How is a puncture in the Inner Tube repaired?_ _Answer No. 107_

After locating the puncture, carefully clean the rubber around the leak with benzine or gasoline. Then roughen the surface with sandpaper to give a hold for the cement. Apply the cement to both patch and tube, allowing it to dry for about five minutes, repeating the application twice with like intervals between for drying. When the cement is dry and sticky press the patch against the tube firmly and thoroughly to remove all air bubbles beneath it and insure proper adherence to the surface--then spread some soapstone or talc powder over the repair so as to prevent the tube sticking to the casing. Before the tube is put back into the casing plenty of talc powder should be sprinkled into the latter. A cement patch is not usually permanent and the tube should be vulcanized as soon as possible. In replacing the tire on the rim be very careful not to pinch the tube.

Points on Maintenance

_What is the proper way to wash the Car?_ _Answer No. 108_

Always use cold or lukewarm water--never hot water. If a hose is used, don't turn on the water at full force, as this drives the dirt into the varnish and injures the finish. After the surplus mud and grime have been washed off take a sponge and clean the body and running gear with a tepid solution of water and Ivory or linseed oil soap. Rinse off with cold water; then rub dry and polish the body with a chamois skin. A body or furniture polish of good quality may be used to add lustre to the car. Grease on the running gear may be removed with a gasoline-soaked sponge or rag. The nickeled parts may be polished with any good metal polish.

_What care does Top need?_ _Answer No. 109_

When putting the top down be careful in folding to see that the fabric is not pinched between the bow spacers, as they will chafe a hole through the top very quickly. Applying a good top dressing will greatly improve the appearance of an old top.

_What should be done when the Car is stored?_ _Answer No. 110_

Drain the water from the radiator, and then put in about a quart of denatured alcohol to prevent freezing of any water that may possibly remain. Remove cylinder head and clean out any carbon deposits in combustion chamber. Draw off all the gasoline. Drain the dirty oil from the crank case and cleanse the engine with kerosene as directed in Answer No. 101. Refill the crank case with fresh oil and revolve the engine enough to cover the different parts with oil. Remove the tires and store them away. Wash up the car, and if possible cover the body with a sheet of muslin to protect the finish.

_What attention do the Electric Head Lights require?_ _Answer No. 111_

Very little. When the cars leave our factory the lamps are properly focused and unless the bulb burns out there should be no occasion for removing the door, as there is nothing to get out of order. Should the door be removed for any reason care should be exercised not to touch the silver-plated reflector or the bulb with anything but a soft, clean rag, preferably flannel. To focus the lamps turn the adjusting screw in the back of lamp in either direction until the desired focus is attained.

The Ford Model T One Ton Truck

_Do the Instructions relative to the Car apply to the Truck?_ _Answer No. 112_

The answers pertaining to the car are applicable to the truck, with the exception of Nos. 79, 80 and 81.

_How are the Rear Axle and Differential disassembled?_ _Answer No. 113_

With the universal joint disconnected, remove the bolt in front end of radius rods and the cap screws which hold the drive shaft tube to the rear axle housing. Then remove the rear axle housing cap; also the bolts which hold the two halves of the differential housing together. With the differential exposed to view, the manner of disassembling it will be apparent. Care must be exercised to get every part back in its correct position when reassembling, being sure to use new paper liners.

_How is the Worm removed?_ _Answer No. 114_

To remove the worm, drive out the pins which hold the coupling to the worm and drive shaft. Then remove the felt washer, roller bearing sleeve, and roller bearing by slipping them over the coupling. Drive the coupling off from the drive shaft and then force the worm from the coupling. Removing the worm nut will permit the removal of the retaining washer, thrust bearing and rear worm roller bearing. In reassembling be sure that the pin which holds the retaining washer stationary is in place.

_How is the Differential Gear removed from the Shaft?_ _Answer No. 115_

The differential gear is fastened to the inner end of the rear axle shaft by means of splines, and is held in position by a ring which is in two halves and fits in a groove in the rear axle shaft. To remove the gear, force it down on the shaft, that is, away from the end to which it is fastened, drive out the two halves of the ring in groove in shaft with screw-driver or chisel, and force the gear off the end of the shaft.

_What about Lubricating the Rear Axle?_ _Answer No. 116_

Extreme care must be used in lubricating the differential. An A-l heavy fluid or semi-fluid oil, such as Mobiloil C or Whittemore's Worm Gear Protective, should be used and carried at a level with the upper oil plug. The differential is supplied with the required amount of lubricant when the truck leaves the factory and the supply should be maintained by replenishments as required. After running the truck about 500 miles, the oil should be drained off by removing the lower oil plug, and the differential filled with fresh lubricant. This operation should be repeated at approximately 1000 miles, and after that whenever necessary. The rear axle outer roller bearings are lubricated by means of dope cups. These cups should be kept filled with a good grade of grease and given a full turn every 100 miles. Before putting the truck back in service after the rear axle has been taken down, fill the differential with oil, jack up the axle and run it for five or ten minutes to insure proper lubrication of all bearings.

The Ford Starting and Lighting System

_Of what does the Starting and Lighting System consist?_ _Answer No. 117_

The starting and lighting system is of the two unit type and consists of the starting motor, generator, storage battery, ammeter, and lights, together with the necessary wiring and connections.

_Where is the Starter located?_ _Answer No. 118_

The starting motor is mounted on the left-hand side of the engine and bolted to the transmission cover. When in operation the pinion on the Bendix drive shaft engages with the teeth on the flywheel.

_What if the Engine fails to start?_ _Answer No. 119_

If the starting motor is turning the crank shaft over and the engine fails to start, the trouble is not in the starting system. In this event release the button at once so as not to unnecessarily discharge the battery and inspect the carburetor and ignition system to determine the trouble.

_What if the Starting Motor fails to act?_ _Answer No. 120_

If the starting motor fails to act, after pushing the button, first inspect the terminal on the starting motor, the two terminals on the battery and the two terminals on starting switch, making sure all of the connections are tight; then examine the wiring for a break in the insulation that would cause a short circuit. If the wiring and connections are O. K. and the starting motor fails to act, test the battery with a hydrometer. If the hydrometer reading is less than 1.225 the trouble is no doubt due to a weak or discharged battery.

_What if the driver steps on Starting Button when engine is running?_ _Answer No. 121_

Should the driver accidentally step on the starting button while the engine is running, no harm will result. The pinion merely touches the revolving flywheel gear once and immediately rotates with the threaded shaft out of contact with the flywheel, in the same manner as when it has been disengaged by the engine's starting.

_How is the Generator operated?_ _Answer No. 122_

The generator is mounted on the right-hand side of the engine and bolted to the cylinder front end cover. It is operated by the pinion on the armature shaft engaging with the large time gear. The charging rate of generator is set so as to cut in at engine speeds corresponding to 10 miles per hour in high speed and reaches a maximum charging rate at 20 miles per hour. At higher speeds the charge will taper off, which is a settled characteristic of a generator. This operation of cutting in and cutting out at suitable speeds is accomplished by the cut-out, which is mounted on the generator. This cut-out is set properly at the factory and should not under any circumstances be tampered with.

_What about Oiling?_ _Answer No. 123_

The starting motor is lubricated by the Ford splash system, the same as the engine and transmission. The generator is lubricated by a splash of oil from the time gears. In addition an oil cup is located at the end of the generator housing and a few drops of oil should be applied occasionally.

_What should be done when repairing the Ignition?_ _Answer No. 124_

The introduction of a battery current into the magneto will discharge the magnets and whenever working on the ignition system or wiring do not fail to disconnect the positive wire from the battery. The end of this wire should be wound with tape to prevent its coming in contact with the terminal again.

_How does the Ammeter operate?_ _Answer No. 125_

The ammeter is located on the instrument board. This indicator registers "charge" when the generator is charging the battery and "discharge" when the lights are burning and the engine not running above 10 miles per hour. At an engine speed of 15 miles per hour or more the ammeter should show a reading of from 10 to 12. If the engine is running above 15 miles per hour and the ammeter does not show a proper reading, first inspect the terminal posts on the ammeter, making sure that the connections are tight, then disconnect the wire from the terminal on generator, and with the engine running at a moderate speed, take a pair of pliers or a screw-driver and short-circuit the terminal stud on the generator to the generator housing. If the generator is O. K., a good live spark will be noted. (Do not run the engine any longer than is necessary with the terminal wire disconnected.) Next inspect the wiring from the generator through the ammeter, to the battery for a break in the insulation that would result in a short-circuit. If the trouble is not located, then remove the dust cap from the end of generator and thoroughly clean the generator commutator, using for this work a fine grade of sandpaper which has been slightly oiled. With the motor running hold the sandpaper against the commutator with the fingers until all dirt has been removed and a bright surface attained.

_How are the Lights operated?_ _Answer No. 126_

The lighting system consists of two headlights and a tail light operated by a combination lighting and ignition switch located on the instrument board. The headlamp bulbs are of 6-8 volt, double filament type. The major filament is 18 candle-power, and the minor filament is 2¾ candle-power. The small bulb used in the tail light is of 6-8 volt, single contact, two candle-power type. All of the lamps are connected in parallel so that the burning out or removal of any one of them will not affect the other. Current for the lamps is supplied by the battery. Do not connect the lights to the magneto as it will result in burning out the bulbs and might discharge the magnets. Cut No. 23 shows the different circuits and the course of the current.

_What about repairing Starter and Generator_ _Answer No. 127_

If either the starter or generator fails to give proper service, the owner should at once consult an authorized Ford dealer. _Owners should not attempt to repair or adjust the mechanism of the starter and generator._

_How is the Starter removed?_ _Answer No. 128_

When removing the starter to replace transmission bands, or for any other reason, first remove the engine pan on the left-hand side of the engine and with a screw-driver remove the four small screws holding the shaft cover to the transmission cover. Upon removing cover and gasket, turn the Bendix drive shaft around so that the set screw on the end of the shaft is at the top. Immediately under the set screw is placed a lock washer, designed with lips or extensions opposite each other. One of these is turned against the collar and the other is turned up against the side of the screw head. Bend back the lip which has been forced against the screw and remove the set-screw. As the lock washer will no doubt be broken or weakened in removing the starter, a new one must be used when replacing it. Next, pull the Bendix assembly out of the housing, being careful that the small key is not misplaced nor lost. Remove the four screws which hold the starter housing to the transmission cover, and pull out the starter, taking same down through the chassis--this is why it was necessary to remove the engine pan. Extreme care should be used in removing the Bendix drive and other parts that none are misplaced nor lost and that they are replaced in their former position. In replacing the starter, be sure that the terminal connection is placed at the top. If the car is to be operated with the starter removed, be sure to put the transmission cover plates in position. These plates may be obtained from the nearest dealer.

_How is the Bendix Drive assembled to the Starting Motor?_ _Answer No. 129_

When assembling the Bendix Drive to the starting motor shaft, care must be used to see that the stop nut or bearing which enters the mounting bracket on the starting motor is not too tight; also that the bearing is in proper alignment with the bracket. The bearing should be oiled and then fitted so that it can be turned readily with the fingers. If the bearing is too tight, it should be dressed down with an oil stone. Too tight a fit will cause the bearing to freeze to the bracket, resulting in serious damage to the starter.

_How is the Generator removed?_ _Answer No. 130_

If it is found necessary to remove the generator, first take out the three cap screws holding it to the front end cover and by placing the point of a screw-driver between the generator and front end cover, the generator may be forced off the engine assembly. Always start at the top of the generator and force it backward and downward at the same time. Plates may be obtained from the nearest dealer to place over the time gear if the car is to be operated with the generator removed.

_What should be done when replacing the Generator?_ _Answer No. 131_

When installing the generator, the drive pinion must be properly meshed with the large time gear. The generator bracket, that is, the section to which the generator is bolted is separate from the cylinder block and the meshing of the generator driving pinion with the large time gear can be regulated by the use of one or more paper gaskets between the bracket and the cylinder block. The bracket should rest tightly on the crankcase gasket and line up with the face of the time gear case. If these gears are meshed too tightly, a humming noise will result, also the generator shaft will be thrown out of alignment.

_Can the Engine be run with the Generator disconnected from the battery?_ _Answer No. 132_

If for any reason the engine is run with the generator disconnected from the battery, as on a block test, or when battery has been removed for repair or recharging, be sure that the generator is grounded by running a wire from the terminal on generator to one of the dust cover screws in the yoke. Two strands of shipping tag wire may be used for this purpose. Be sure that the connections at both ends of the wire are tight. Failure to do this when running the engine with the generator disconnected from the battery will result in serious injury to the generator. _Never ground the generator through the cut-out._

_What type of Battery is used?_ _Answer No. 133_

The Ford Starting System uses a six-volt, three-cell battery.

_How are Hydrometer Readings taken?_ _Answer No. 134_

Hydrometer readings should be taken about every two weeks to make sure that the generator is keeping the battery charged. To take a hydrometer reading, remove the filling plugs (remove the plug from only one cell at a time). Next, insert hydrometer syringe in the filler tube and draw up enough of the solution to float the glass bulb inside the instrument. The reading of the scale at the surface of the liquid (see Cut No. 24) gives the strength of the solution. Be sure to return the electrolyte to the cell from which it was taken. Following is a list of the readings with their indications. The readings in parentheses apply to batteries used in tropical climates where water never freezes. Readings of 1.275 (1.200) or more indicate a fully charged battery. Readings of less than 1.225 (1.130) but more than 1.150 (1.080) indicate complete discharge. Hydrometer tests taken immediately after filling with water and before it has become thoroughly mixed with the electrolyte will not show the true condition of the battery. If the hydrometer reading shows the battery less than one-half charged, it should be taken to the nearest authorized Battery Service Station for recharging. Continued operation in a less than half-charged condition is injurious to the battery somewhat as running on a soft or deflated tire is injurious to the tire. Before replacing the battery, the cause of the discharged condition should be removed. It may be due to leaks or grounds in the car wiring or to the electric system having gotten out of adjustment so that the battery is not kept supplied with the proper amount of current from the generator. If the reading in one cell is more than 50 points different from the others, it indicates that the cell is not in good order and the battery should be taken to a skilled service man for attention.

_When should water be added to the Battery?_ _Answer No. 135_

Add nothing but pure water to the cells and do it often enough to keep the plates covered at all times. The solution (electrolyte) should be maintained at a level with the bottom of the filling tube. Distilled water, melted artificial (but not natural) ice and rain water, if obtained in the open country from a clean slate or shingle-covered roof, are generally satisfactory. All water for battery use should be kept in clean, covered vessels of glass, china, earthenware, rubber or lead. In cold weather add water only immediately before running the engine so that the charging will mix the water and electrolyte, and avoid freezing. If, for any reason, it is necessary to add acid, the battery should be taken to an authorized Service Station.