Part 4

The first operation is the assembling of group No. 2, which is as follows: Place the brake drum on table with the hub in a vertical position, place the slow speed plate over the hub with gear uppermost. Then place reverse plate over the slow speed plate so that the reverse gear surrounds the slow speed gear. Fit the two keys in the hub just above the slow speed gear. Put the driven gear in position with the teeth downward so that they will come next to the slow speed gear. Take the three triple gears and mesh them with the driven gear according to the punch marks on the teeth, the reverse gear or smallest of the triple gear assembly being downward. After making sure that the triple gears are properly meshed tie them in place by passing a cord around the outside of the three gears. Take the flywheel and place it on the table with the face downward and the transmission shaft in a vertical position; then invert the group which you have assembled over the transmission shaft, setting it in position so that the triple gear pins on the flywheel will pass through the triple gears. This will bring the brake drum on top in a position to hold the clutch plates, etc. The next step is to fit the clutch drum key in the transmission shaft. Press the clutch disc drum over the shaft and put the set screw in place to hold the drum. Put a large disc over the clutch drum, then a small disc, alternating with large and small discs until the entire set of discs are in position, ending up with a large disc on top.

If a small disc is on top it is liable to fall over the clutch drum in changing the speed from high to low and as a result you would be unable to change the speed back into high. Next put the clutch push ring over the clutch drum, and on top of the discs with the three pins projecting upward (see Group No. 4, Cut No. 13). You will note the remaining parts are placed as they will be assembled. Next bolt the driving plate in position so that the adjusting screws of the clutch fingers will bear against the clutch push ring pins. Before proceeding further it would be a good plan to test the transmission by moving the plates with the hands. If the transmission is properly assembled they will revolve freely. The clutch parts may be assembled on the driving plate hub as follows: Slip the clutch shift over the hub so that the small end rests on the ends of the clutch fingers. Next put on the clutch spring, placing the clutch support inside so that the flange will rest on the upper coil of the spring and press into place, inserting the pin in the driving plate hub through the holes in the side of the spring support. Then turn the clutch spring support until the pin fits into the lugs on the bottom of the support. The easiest method of compressing the spring sufficiently to insert the pin is to loosen the tension of the clutch finger by means of the adjusting screws. When tightening up the clutch again the spring should be compressed to within a space of two or two and one-sixteenth inches to insure against the clutch slipping. Care should be exercised to see that the screws in the fingers are adjusted so the spring is compressed evenly all around.

The Rear Axle Assembly

_How is the Rear Axle removed?_ _Answer No. 77_

Jack up car and remove rear wheels as instructed in Answer No. 89. Take out the four bolts connecting the universal ball cap to the transmission case and cover. Disconnect brake rods. Remove nuts holding spring perches to rear axle housing flanges. Raise frame at the rear end, and the axle can be easily withdrawn.

_How is the Universal Joint disconnected from the Drive Shaft?_ _Answer No. 78_

Remove two plugs from top and bottom of ball casting and turn shaft until pin comes opposite hole, drive out pin and the joint can be pulled or forced away from the shaft and out of the housing.

_How are the Rear Axle and Differential disassembled?_ _Answer No. 79_

With the universal joint disconnected, remove nuts in front end of radius rods and the nuts on studs holding drive shaft tube to rear axle housing. Remove bolts which hold the two halves of differential housing together. If necessary to disassemble differential a very slight mechanical knowledge will permit one to immediately discern how to do it once it is exposed to view. Care must be exercised to get every pin, bolt and keylock back in its correct position when reassembling.

_How is the Drive Shaft Pinion removed?_ _Answer No. 80_

The end of the drive shaft, to which the pinion is attached, is tapered to fit the tapered hole in the pinion, which is keyed onto the shaft, and then secured by a cotter-pinned "castle" nut. Remove the castle nut, and drive the pinion off.

_How are the Differential Gears Removed?_ _Answer No. 81_

The differential gears are attached to the inner ends of the rear axle shaft. They work upon the differential pinions when turning a corner, so that the axle shafts revolve independently, but when the car is moving in a straight line the differential pinions and differential gears and axle shafts move as an integral part. If you will examine the rear axle shafts you will notice that the gears are keyed on, and held in position by a ring which is in two halves and fits in a groove in the rear axle shaft. To remove the differential gears, force them down on the shaft, that is, away from the end to which they are secured, drive out the two halves of ring in the grooves in shaft with screw-driver or chisel, then force the gears off the end of the shafts.

_How is the Rear Axle Shaft removed?_ _Answer No. 82_

Disconnect rear axle as directed in Answer No. 77, then unbolt the drive shaft assembly where it joins the rear axle housing at the differential. Disconnect the radius rods and brake rods at the outer ends of the housing. Take out the bolts which hold the two halves of the rear axle housing together at the center and remove the housing. Take the inner differential casing apart and draw the axle shaft out.

After replacing the axle shaft be sure that the rear wheels are firmly wedged on at the outer end of the axle shaft and the key in proper position. When the car has been driven thirty days or so, make it a point to remove the hub cap and set up the lock nut to overcome any play that might have developed. It is extremely important that the rear wheels are kept tight, otherwise the constant rocking back and forth against the keyway may in time cause serious trouble.

If the rear axle or wheel is sprung by skidding against a curb, or other accident, it is false economy to drive the car without correcting the trouble, as tires, gears and all other parts will suffer. If the axle shaft is bent, it can, with proper facilities, be straightened, but it is best to replace it.

The Ford Muffler

_Why is the Muffler necessary?_ _Answer No. 83_

The exhaust as it comes from the engine through the exhaust pipe would create a constant and distracting noise were it not for the muffler. From the comparatively small pipe, the exhaust is liberated into the larger chambers of the muffler, where the force of the exhaust is lessened by expansion and discharged out of the muffler with practically no noise. The Ford muffler construction is such that there is very little back pressure of the escaping gases, consequently there is nothing to be gained by putting a cut-out in the exhaust pipe between the engine and the muffler.

_How is the Muffler disconnected?_ _Answer No. 84_

Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the motor by unscrewing the pack nut and remove the bolts which hold the muffler to the frame. After the muffler has been disconnected it can be disassembled by removing the nut at the rear end.

The Running Gear

_What care should the Running Gear have?_ _Answer No. 85_

In the first place it at all times should have proper lubrication (see chapter on Lubrication). Once in every thirty days the front and rear axles should be carefully gone over to see that every moving part, such as the bushings in spring connections, spring hangers, steering knuckles and hub bearings, are thoroughly lubricated, and that all nuts and connections are secured with cotter pins in place. The spring clips, which attach the front spring to the frame, should be inspected frequently to see that everything is in perfect order.

_How is the Front Axle removed?_ _Answer No. 86_

Jack up front of car so wheels can be removed (see Answer No. 89), disconnect steering gear ball arm from the spindle connecting rod, disconnect radius rod at ball joint, and remove two cotter pin bolts from spring shackle on each side, so detaching front spring.

To disconnect radius rod from axle, remove cotter-pinned nuts. To remove radius rod entirely, take the two bolts out of the ball joint and remove lower half of cap.

_In case of accident, how is the Front Axle straightened?_ _Answer No. 87_

Should the axle or spindle become bent extreme care must be used to straighten the parts accurately. Do not heat the forgings, as this will untemper the steel, but straighten them cold. If convenient it would be better to return such parts to the dealer, where they may be properly straightened in jigs designed for that purpose. It is very essential that the wheels line up properly (see Answer No. 90).

The eye is not sufficiently accurate to determine whether the parts have been properly straightened, and excessive wear of the front tires will occur if everything is not in perfect alignment.

_What about the Wheels?_ _Answer No. 88_

The wheels should be jacked up periodically and tested, not only for smoothness of running, but for side play as well. If in spinning a front wheel a sharp click occurs now and then and the wheel is momentarily checked, it is probable that there is a chipped or split ball in the bearing which should be removed, otherwise it may necessitate the removal of the entire bearing. A wheel in perfect adjustment should, after spinning, come to rest with the tire valve directly below the hub. Undue wear of the hub bearings is usually caused by lack of lubrication and excessive friction, due to the adjusting cone being screwed up too tight. It is a good plan to clean the bearings frequently and keep the hub well filled with grease.

_How are the Wheels removed?_ _Answer No. 89_

Front wheels: Take off hub cap, remove cotter pin and unscrew castle nut and spindle washer. The adjustable bearing cone can then be taken out and the wheel removed. Care should be taken to see that the cones and lock nuts are replaced on the same spindle from which they were removed, otherwise there is a liability of stripping the threads which are left on the left spindle and right on the opposite as you stand facing the car. Rear wheels: They should not be removed unless absolutely necessary--in which case proceed as above, then with a wheel puller remove the wheel from the tapered shaft to which it is locked with a key. In replacing rear wheels be sure that nut on axle shaft is as tight as possible and cotter pin in place. The hub caps of the rear wheels should be removed occasionally and the lock nuts which hold the hub in place tightened up. If these nuts are allowed to work loose, the resulting play on the hub key may eventually twist off the axle shaft.

_How does the setting of the Front Wheels differ from that of the Rear Wheels?_ _Answer No. 90_

It will be observed that the front wheels are "dished;" that is, the spokes are given a slight outward flare to enable them to meet side stresses with less rigid resistance--while the spokes of the rear wheels are straight. The front wheels are also placed at an angle--that is to say, the distance between the tops of the front wheels is about three inches greater than between the bottoms. This is to give perfect steering qualities and to save wear on the tires when turning corners. The front wheels should not, however, "toe-in" at the front--at least not more than a quarter of an inch. Lines drawn along the outside of the wheels when the latter are straight in a forward position should be parallel. All wheels should always be kept in proper alignment, otherwise steering will be difficult and tire wear greatly increased. Adjustment can be made by turning the yoke at the left end of the spindle connecting rod, to draw the wheels into a parallel position.

_What about installing Roller Bearing Cups?_ _Answer No. 91_

Whenever it is necessary to install roller bearing cups, either in changing over from ball bearings to roller bearings or in replacing worn cups, the work should be done by a Dealer or Garage which has the necessary equipment for this work. In order to avoid excessive wear of the bearings it is essential that the cups be fitted absolutely true and this is practically impossible without the use of special equipment.

_How are the Roller Bearings installed?_ _Answer No. 92_

First, pack the hub full of clean good quality cup grease. Take the inner cone with its rollers and pack it with grease, filling all of the space around and between the rollers. Then place the inner cone in the larger cup. Next, drive the dust ring with felt washer into the inner end of the hub so that it is flush with the end of the hub.

Place the wheel carrying the inner bearings with dust ring on the spindle. The inner cone is a one-thousandth fit, or, in other words, a slip fit on the spindle. (See Cut No. 17.) It is never necessary to force the cone onto the spindle as the cups are forced into the hub. Pack the outer or threaded cone and rollers with cup grease, filling all the space between the rollers, as was done with the inner cone. The cones are made up in right-and left-hand threads to correspond to the threads on the spindles. Care should be taken that a right-hand threaded cone is not forced onto a left-hand threaded spindle. The right-hand thread is on the left-hand side of the car, while the left-hand thread is on the right-hand side of the car. Place the cone on the spindle, running it up tight enough so that the wheel seems to bind; give the wheel a few turns to be sure that all the working parts are in perfect contact; then back off the cone ¼ to ½ a turn which will be sufficient to allow the wheel to revolve freely without end play. To determine if there is end play, grasp the spokes and shake the wheel. Do not mistake loose spindle bushings for loose bearings. Insert a cold chisel between axle and spindle to take up any play while testing the bearings. Next, put on the spindle washer and nut, drawing the nut to a firm bearing. Make sure that the cone has not been forced out of adjustment. This can be determined by giving the wheel a few turns. Insert the cotter pin which locks the nut on the spindle, fill the hub cap with grease and screw it in place on the hub.

_How often should the Bearings be lubricated?_ _Answer No. 93_

Every three or four months the wheels should be removed, the old grease taken out and the hubs and bearings thoroughly cleansed with kerosene. Then repack the hub and bearings with clean grease and readjust the bearings.

_What care do the Springs need?_ _Answer No. 94_

The springs should be lubricated frequently with oil or graphite. To do this, pry the leaves apart near the ends and insert the lubricant between them. Whenever a car is given a general overhauling, the springs should be disassembled and the leaves polished with emery cloth, afterwards packing them with graphite when reassembling. Rust can be prevented from accumulating on the springs by painting them when necessary with a quick drying black paint. You will find that these suggestions if carried out will not only improve the riding qualities of the car but prolong the life of the parts as well.

_Should Spring Clips be kept tight?_ _Answer No. 95_

Yes. If the spring clips are allowed to work loose the entire strain is put on the tie bolt which extends through the centre of the spring. This may cause the bolt to be sheared off and allow the frame and body to shift a trifle to one side. It is a good plan to frequently inspect the clips which hold the springs to the frame and see that they are kept tight.

_What about the Steering Apparatus?_ _Answer No. 96_

It is exceedingly simple and will need little care--except, of course, proper lubrication. The post gears which are arranged in the "sun and planet" form are located at the top of the post just below the hub of the wheel (see Cut No. 1). By loosening the set screw and unscrewing the cap--after having removed the steering wheel--they may readily be inspected and replenished with grease. To remove the steering wheel, unscrew the nut on top of the post and drive the wheel off the shaft with a block of wood and hammer.

_How is Steering Gear tightened?_ _Answer No. 97_

Should the steering gear become loose, that is, so that a slight movement of the wheel does not produce immediate results, it may be tightened in the following manner: Disconnect the two halves of the ball sockets which surround the ball arm at the lower end of the steering post and file off the surface until they fit snugly around the ball. If the ball is badly worn it is best to replace it with a new one. Also tighten the ball caps at the other end of the steering gear connecting rod in the same manner. If the bolts in the steering spindle arms appear to be loose, the brass bushings should be replaced with new ones (see Cut No. 16). Excessive play in the front axle may be detected by grasping one of the front wheels by the spokes and jerking the front axle back and forth. After the car has been in service two or three years excessive play in the steering gear may make necessary the renewal of the little pinions, as well as the brass internal gear just underneath the steering wheel spider.

It is also advisable to inspect the front spring and front spring perches occasionally to determine whether or not new bushings are necessary to overcome any excessive vibration.

The Ford Lubricating System

_How does the Ford Lubricating System differ from others?_ _Answer No. 98_

It is simplified--and there are fewer places to oil. Practically all of the parts of the engine and transmission are oiled by the Ford splash system, from the one big oil reservoir in the crank case. Cut No. 18 shows the principal points of lubrication, and specifies when replenishment should be made, according to mileage. This chart should be studied carefully and often. It is a good plan to frequently supply all oil cups with the same oil used in the engine (any good light grade lubricating oil will answer) and the dope cups with good grease. Be sure to see that the commutator is kept freely supplied with oil at all times.

_Which is the best way to fill the "Dope" Cups?_ _Answer No. 99_

When it is advisable to fill dope cup covers screw them down, refill with grease and repeat the operation two or three times. Always open oil cups by turning to right, as this keeps tightening rather than loosening them. Occasionally remove front wheels and supply dope to wearing surface. A drop of oil now and then in crank-handle bearing is necessary, also on fan belt pulleys and shaft. The axles drive shaft and universal joint are well supplied with lubricant when the car leaves the factory, but it is well to examine and oil them frequently.

_What kind of Oil should be used?_ _Answer No. 100_

We recommend only medium light high-grade gas engine oil for use in the Model T motor. A medium light grade of oil is preferred as it will naturally reach the bearings with greater ease and consequently less heat will develop on account of friction. The oil should, however, have sufficient body so that the pressure between the two bearing surfaces will not force the oil out and allow the metal to come in actual contact. Heavy and inferior oils have a tendency to carbonize quickly, also "gum up" the piston rings, valve stems and bearings. In cold weather a light grade of oil having a low cold test is absolutely essential for the proper lubrication of the car. Graphite should not be used as a lubricant in the engine or the transmission as it will have a tendency to short-circuit the magneto.

_How often should Oil be drained from Crank Case?_ _Answer No. 101_

It is advisable to clean out the crank case by draining off the dirty oil when the new car has been driven three hundred and fifty miles; thereafter it will only be necessary to repeat this operation about every seven hundred and fifty miles. Remove the plug underneath the flywheel casing and drain off the oil. Replace the plug and pour in a gallon of kerosene oil through the breather pipe. Turn the engine over fifteen or twenty times so that the splash from the kerosene oil will thoroughly cleanse the engine. Remove crank case plug and drain off kerosene oil. It is of vital importance that all the kerosene be removed from the depressions in the crank case. To do this put about a quart of lubricating oil into the motor and turn engine over several times, then remove the crank case plug and drain off the flushing oil; then replace plug and refill with fresh oil. (See Answer No. 3.)

_How often should Commutator be oiled?_ _Answer No. 102_

Keeping the commutator well oiled is a matter of far greater importance than many drivers believe, and is necessary in order to have a smooth operating engine. Don't be afraid to put a little oil into the commutator every other day--at least every 200 miles. Remember that the commutator roller revolves very rapidly, and without sufficient lubrication the parts soon become badly worn. When in this condition perfect contact between the roller and the four contact points is impossible, as a result the engine is apt to misfire when running at a good rate of speed.

_What about Lubricating the Differential?_ _Answer No. 103_

Do not make the mistake of putting too much grease in the differential housing. The housing should not be more than one-third full. The differential is supplied with the required amount of lubricant when the car leaves the factory. The oil plug should be removed about every 1000 miles and more grease added if necessary. If a fluid grease is used the level should be approximately one and one-half inches below the oil hole.

Care of the Tires

_How are Ford Tires removed?_ _Answer No. 104_