Part 3

The presence of water in the carburetor or gasoline tank, even in small amounts, will prevent easy starting and the motor will misfire and stop. As water is heavier than gasoline it settles to the bottom of the tank and into the sediment bulb along with other foreign matter. As it is difficult nowadays to get gasoline absolutely free from impurities, especially water, it is advisable to frequently drain the sediment bulb under the gasoline tank. During cold weather the water which accumulates in the sediment bulb is likely to freeze and prevent the flow of gasoline through the pipe leading to the carburetor. Should anything of this kind happen it is possible to open the gasoline line by wrapping a cloth around the sediment bulb and keeping it saturated with hot water for a short time. Then the water should be drained off. In event the water gets down into the carburetor and freezes, the same treatment may be applied.

_What makes the Carburetor leak?_ _Answer No. 47_

The flow of gasoline entering the carburetor through the feed pipe is automatically regulated by the float needle raising and lowering in its seat. Should any particle of dirt become lodged in the seat, which prevents the needle from closing, the gasoline will overflow in the bowl of the carburetor and leak out upon the ground.

_When there is dirt in the Carburetor--what?_ _Answer No. 48_

The spraying nozzle of the carburetor having a very small opening, a minute particle of grit or other foreign matter will clog up the orifice, and result: motor will begin to misfire and slow down as soon as it has attained any considerable speed. This is accounted for by the fact that at high speeds the increased suction will draw the particles of dust, etc., into the nozzle. By opening the valve needle half a turn and giving the throttle lever two or three quick pulls the dirt or sediment will often be drawn through, when the needle may be turned back to its original place. If this does not accomplish the purpose, the carburetor should be drained.

_If Engine runs too fast or chokes with throttle retarded--what?_ _Answer No. 49_

If the engine runs too fast with throttle fully retarded unscrew the carburetor throttle lever adjusting screw until the engine idles at suitable speed. If the motor chokes and stops when throttle is fully retarded the adjusting screw should be screwed in until it strikes the boss, preventing the throttle from closing too far. When proper adjustment has been made, tighten lock-screw so that adjustment will not be disturbed.

_What is the purpose of the Hot Air Pipe?_ _Answer No. 50_

It takes the hot air from around the exhaust pipe and conducts it to the carburetor--where the heat facilitates the vaporizing of the gasoline. It is usually advisable to remove this pipe in the hot season--but it is an absolutely necessary feature during cold weather.

_What is the purpose of the Cork Float?_ _Answer No. 51_

It automatically controls the flow of the gasoline into the carburetor. If it floats too low, starting will be difficult; if too high, the carburetor will flood and leak. A cork float which has become fuel soaked should be removed and replaced by a new one or thoroughly dried and then given a couple of coats of liquid shellac to make it waterproof.

_Should Priming Rod be used in starting when Motor is warm?_ _Answer No. 52_

No. The carburetor does not ordinarily require priming when the motor is warm, and starting with the rod pulled out is apt to "flood" the engine with an over-rich mixture of gas, which does not readily explode. This naturally causes difficulty in starting. If you should accidentally flood the engine, turn the carburetor adjusting needle down (to the right) until it seats; then turn the engine over a few times in order to exhaust the rich gas. As soon as the motor starts, turn back the needle (to the left) and readjust the carburetor.

The Ford Ignition System

_What is the purpose of the Ignition System?_ _Answer No. 53_

It furnishes the electric spark which explodes the charge in the combustion chamber, thus producing the power which runs the engine. It is important that the charge be correctly ignited at the proper time, in order to obtain satisfactory results in running the car. In the Ford car the ignition system is as simple as it is possible for human invention to make it.

_How does the Magneto generate the current?_ _Answer No. 54_

In revolving at the same rate of speed as the motor, the magnets on the flywheel passing the stationary coil spools create an alternating low tension electric current in coils of wire which are wound around spools fastened to the stationary part of the magneto, and is carried from these coils to the magneto connection (wire) leading to the coil box on the dash.

_Should the Coil Vibrator Adjustment be disturbed?_ _Answer No. 55_

The present style of coil unit is properly adjusted when it leaves the factory and this adjustment should not be disturbed unless to install new points or to reduce the gap between the points which may have increased from wear. When adjustments are necessary they should, whenever possible, be made by one of our service stations who have special equipment for testing and adjusting units and will gladly furnish expert service. If the points are pitted they should be filed flat with a fine double-faced file and the adjusting thumb nut turned down so that with the spring held down the gap between the points will be a trifle less than 1/32″ of an inch. Then set the lock nut so that the adjustment can not be disturbed. Do not bend or hammer on the vibrators, as this would affect the operation of the cushion spring of the vibrator bridge and reduce the efficiency of the unit.

_How is a Weak Unit detected?_ _Answer No. 56_

With the vibrators properly adjusted, if any particular cylinder fails or seems to develop only a weak action, change the position of the unit to determine if the fault is actually in the unit. The first symptom of a defective unit is the buzzing of the vibrator with no spark at the plug. Remember that a loose wire connection, faulty spark plug, or worn commutator may cause irregularity in the running of the motor. These are points that should be considered before laying the blame on the coil.

_How may short circuit in Commutator Wiring be detected?_ _Answer No. 57_

Should the insulation of the primary wires (running from coil to commutator) become worn to such an extent that the copper wire is exposed--the current will leak out (i. e. short circuit) whenever contact with the engine pan or other metal parts is made. A steady buzzing of one of the coil units will indicate a "short" in the wiring. When driving the car the engine will suddenly lag and pound on account of the premature explosion. Be careful not to crank the engine downward against compression when the car is in this condition, as the "short" is apt to cause a vigorous kick back.

_Does Coil Adjustment affect starting?_ _Answer No. 58_

Yes. When the vibrators are not properly adjusted more current is required to make and break the contact between the points, and, as a result, at cranking speeds you would not get a spark between the spark plug points. Do not allow the contact points to become "ragged," otherwise they are apt to stick and cause unnecessary difficulty in starting, and when running they are apt to produce an occasional "miss" in the engine.

_What is the purpose of the Commutator?_ _Answer No. 59_

The commutator (or timer) determines the instant at which the spark plugs must fire. It effects the "make and break" in the primary circuit. The grounded wire in the magneto allows the current to flow through the metal parts to the metal roller in the commutator. Therefore, when the commutator roller in revolving touches the four commutator contact points, to each of which is attached a wire connected with a coil unit, an electrical circuit is passed through the entire system of primary wires. This circuit is only momentary, however, as the roller passes over the contact point very rapidly and sets up the circuit in each unit as the roller touches the contact point connected with that unit. The commutator should be kept clean and well oiled at all times.

_What about the Spark Plugs?_ _Answer No. 60_

One is located at the top of each cylinder and can easily be taken out with the spark plug wrench included with every car, after the wire connection is removed. The high voltage current flows out of the secondary coils in the coil box and on reaching the contact points in each spark plug it is forced to jump a 1/32″ gap, thereby forming a spark which ignites the gasoline charge in the cylinders.

The spark plugs should be kept clean (i. e., free from carbon) and should be replaced if they persist in not working properly. There is nothing to be gained by experimenting with different makes of plugs. The make of plugs with which Ford engines are equipped when they leave the factory are best adapted to the requirements of our motor, notwithstanding the opinion of various garage men to the contrary. All wire connections to spark plugs, coil box and commutator should, of course, at all times be kept in perfect contact.

_What are the indications of Ignition trouble?_ _Answer No. 61_

The uneven sputter and bang of the exhaust means that one or more cylinders are exploding irregularly or not at all, and that the trouble should be promptly located and overcome. Misfiring, if allowed to continue, will in time injure the engine and the entire mechanism. If you would be known as a good driver you will be satisfied only with a soft, steady purr from the exhaust. If anything goes wrong, stop and fix it if possible--don't wait until you get home.

_How can one tell which Cylinder is missing?_ _Answer No. 62_

This is done by manipulating the vibrators on the spark coils. Open the throttle until the engine is running at a good speed and then hold down the two outside vibrators. No. 1 and No. 4, with the fingers, so they cannot buzz. This cuts out the two corresponding cylinders. No. 1 and No. 4, leaving only No. 2 and No. 3 running. If they explode regularly it is obvious the trouble is in either No. 1 or No. 4. Relieve No. 4 and hold down No. 2 and No. 3 and also No. 1; if No. 4 cylinder explodes evenly it is evident the misfiring is in No. 1. In this manner all of the cylinders in turn can be tested until the trouble is located. Examine both the spark plug and the vibrator of the missing cylinder.

_If the Coil and Plug are right--what?_ _Answer No. 63_

The trouble is probably due to an improperly seated valve, worn commutator, or short circuit in the commutator wiring. Weakness in the valves may be easily determined by lifting the starting crank slowly the length of the stroke of each cylinder in turn, a strong or weak compression in any particular valve being easily detected. It sometimes happens that the cylinder head gasket (packing) becomes leaky--permitting the gas under compression to escape, a condition that can be detected by running a little lubricating oil around the edge of the gasket and noticing whether bubbles appear or not.

_Does a worn Commutator ever cause misfiring?_ _Answer No. 64_

Yes. If misfiring occurs when running at high speed, inspect the commutator. The surface of the circle around which roller (see Cut No. 9) travels should be clean and smooth, so that the roller makes a perfect contact at all points. If the roller fails to make a good contact on any one of the four contact points, its corresponding cylinder will not fire. Clean these surfaces, if dirty. In case the fibre, contact points and roller of the commutator are badly worn the most satisfactory remedy is to replace them with new parts. The spring should be strong enough to make a firm contact between the roller points if they are worn or dirty.

Misfiring may also be caused by short circuited commutator wires.

_How is the Commutator removed?_ _Answer No. 65_

Remove cotter pin from spark rod and detach latter from commutator. Loosen the cap screw which goes through breather pipe on top of time gear cover. This will release the spring which holds the commutator case in place and this part can be readily removed. Unscrew lock nut; withdraw steel brush cap and drive out the retaining pin. The brush can then be removed from the cam shaft.

In replacing the brush, care must be exercised to see that it is replaced so that the exhaust valve on the first cylinder is closed when the brush points upward. This may be ascertained by removing the valve door and observing the operation of No. 1 valve.

_Does cold weather affect the Commutator?_ _Answer No. 66_

It is a well-known fact that in cold weather even the best grades of lubricating oil are apt to congeal to some extent. If this occurs in the commutator it is very apt to prevent the roller from making perfect contact with the contact points imbedded in the fibre. This, of course, makes difficult starting as the roller arm spring is not stiff enough to brush away the film of oil which naturally forms over the contact points. To overcome this, as well as any liability of the contact points to rust, we recommend a mixture of 25% kerosene with commutator lubricating oil, which will thin it sufficiently to prevent congealing, or freezing, as it is commonly called. You have probably noticed in starting your car in cold weather that perhaps only one or two cylinders will fire for the first minute or so, which indicates that the timer is in the condition described above and as a consequence a perfect contact is not being made on each of the four terminals.

_How is the Magneto removed?_ _Answer No. 67_

It is necessary to take the power plant out of the car (see Answer No. 32) in order to remove the magneto. Then remove crank case and transmission cover--take out the four cap screws that hold the flywheel to the crank shaft. You will then have access to the magnets and entire magneto mechanism. In taking out these parts--or any parts of the car--the utmost care should be taken to make sure that the parts are so marked that they may be replaced properly.

_When the Magneto gets out of order--what?_ _Answer No. 68_

The Ford magneto is made of permanent magnets and there is very little likelihood of their ever losing their strength, unless acted upon by some outside force. For instance, the attachment of a storage battery to the magneto terminal will demagnetize the magnets. If anything like this happens, it is not advisable to try to recharge them, but rather install a complete set of new magnets. The new magnets will be sent from the nearest agent or branch house, and will be placed on a board in identically the same manner as they should be when installed on the flywheel. Great care should be taken in assembling the magnets and lining up the magneto so that the faces of the magnets are separated from the surface of the coil spool just 1/32 of an inch. To take out the old magnets, simply remove the cap screw and bronze screw which holds each in place. The magneto is often blamed when the trouble is a weak current caused by waste or other foreign matter accumulating under the contact spring, which is held in place by the binding post on top of the crank case cover. Remove the three screws which hold the binding post in place, remove binding post and spring and replace after foreign substance has been removed.

The Ford Transmission

_What is the function of the Transmission?_ _Answer No. 69_

It is that part of the mechanism of an automobile which lies between the crank shaft and the drive shaft and by which one is enabled to move at different speeds from the other. It is the speed gear of the car. It sends the car forward at low and high speeds and by it the car is reversed.

_What is meant by the term "Planetary Transmission?"_ _Answer No. 70_

One in which the groups of gears always remain in mesh and revolve around a main axis. The different sets of gears are brought into action by stopping the revolution of the parts which support the gears. By means of bands (similar to brake bands) the rotation of the different parts is stopped. The planetary transmission is the simplest and most direct means of speed control--and is a distinct advantage of the Ford car.

_What is the purpose of the Clutch?_ _Answer No. 71_

If the crank shaft of the engine ran without break straight through to the differential--and through it applied its power direct to the rear wheels--the car would start forward immediately upon the starting of the engine (were it possible to get it started under such conditions). To overcome this difficulty the shaft is divided and by means of the clutch the part of the shaft to which the running engine is delivering its power is enabled to take hold of the unmoving part gradually and start the car without jolt or jar. The forward part of the shaft is referred to as the crank shaft, the rear part as the drive shaft.

_How is the Clutch controlled?_ _Answer No. 72_

By the left pedal at the driver's feet (see Answer No. 10). If the clutch pedal, when pushed forward into slow speed, has a tendency to stick and not come back readily into high, tighten up the slow speed band as directed in Answer No. 74. Should the machine have an inclination to creep forward when cranking, it indicates that the clutch lever screw which bears on the clutch lever cam has worn, and requires an extra turn to hold the clutch in neutral position. When the clutch is released by pulling back the hand lever the pedal should move forward a distance of 1¾″ in passing from high speed to neutral. See that the hub brake shoe and connections are in proper order so that the brake will act sufficiently to prevent the car creeping very far ahead. Also be sure the slow speed band does not bind on account of being adjusted too tight. Don't use a too heavy grade of oil in cold weather as it will have a tendency to congeal between the clutch discs and prevent proper action of the clutch.

_How is the Clutch adjusted?_ _Answer No. 73_

Remove the plate on the transmission cover under the floor boards at the driver's feet. Take out the cotter key on the first clutch finger and give the set screw one-half to one complete turn to the right with a screw-driver. Do the same to the other finger set screws. But be sure to give each the same number of turns and don't forget to replace the cotter key. And after a considerable period of service the wear in the clutch may be taken up by installing another pair of clutch discs, rather than by turning the adjusting screws in too far.

CAUTION: Let us warn you against placing any small tools or objects over or in the transmission case without a good wire or cord attached to them. Otherwise if they are dropped into the transmission case it is almost impossible to recover them without taking off the transmission cover.

_How are the Bands adjusted?_ _Answer No. 74_

The slow speed band may be tightened by loosening the lock nut at the right side of the transmission cover, and turning the adjusting screw (see Cut No. 12) to the right. To tighten the brake and reverse bands remove the transmission cover door and turn the adjusting nuts on the shafts to the right. See that the bands do not drag on the drums when disengaged, as they exert a brake effect, and tend to overheat the motor. However, the foot brake should be adjusted so that a sudden pressure will stop the car immediately, or slide the rear wheels in case of emergency. The bands, when worn to such an extent that they will not take hold properly, should be relined, so that they will engage smoothly without causing a jerky movement of the car. The lining is inexpensive and may be had at any Ford service station at small cost.

_How are the Bands removed?_ _Answer No. 75_

Remove the starting motor (see Answer No. 128). Take off the door on top of transmission cover. Turn the reverse adjustment nut and the brake adjustment nut to the extreme end of the pedal shafts, then remove the slow speed adjusting screw. Remove the bolts holding the transmission cover to crank case and lift off the cover assembly. Slip the band nearest the flywheel over the first of the triple gears, then turn the band around so that the opening is downward. The band can now be removed by lifting upward. The operation is more easily accomplished if the three sets of triple gears are so placed that one set is about ten degrees to the right of center at top. Each band is removed by the same operation. It is necessary to shove each band forward on to the triple gears as at this point only is there sufficient clearance in the crank case to allow the ears of the transmission bands to be turned downward. By reversing this operation the bands may be installed. After being placed in their upright position on the drums pass a cord around the ears of the three bands, holding them in the center so that when putting the transmission cover in place no trouble will be experienced in getting the pedal shafts to rest in the notches in the band ears. The clutch release ring must be placed in the rear groove of the clutch shift. With the cover in place remove the cord which held the bands in place while the cover was being installed.

_How is the Transmission assembled?_ _Answer No. 76_

Cut No. 13 shows the transmission parts in their relative assembling positions and grouped in their different operations of assembling.