Category: Travel Writing

Cyprus: Historical and Descriptive

First View of Larnaka—Arrival—The Haven—The Town—Catholic Church—Fine Carving—Kissing Relics—Marble Sarcophagi—Tombs—Derivation of Name of Larnaka—Phœnicians—Kiti—Language—Shallow Harbour—An ancient Graveyard—Relics—Nursing Bottles—Schools—Church of St. Lazarus—A Compromise in...

Chapters

64. CHAPTER XXXII.

Again must Cyprus bear a prominent position in the eyes of the world. For many years eminent statesmen, soldiers, and engineers have been proclaiming the advisability of making...

62. CHAPTER XXX.

So much attention has lately been called to the concluding chapters of Herr von Löher’s most interesting work, that we feel compelled to present them, in an English form, even a...

44. CHAPTER XII.

As we journeyed, in twilight and solitude around the mountain, and darkness gradually approached, I could not forget that even, to the highest peak of this very Olympus, at leas...

40. CHAPTER VIII.

I had scarcely reached my lodging in Nikosia when the pacha came to return my visit, accompanied by his dragoman and first secretary. He inquired with great interest what I had...

63. CHAPTER XXXI.

The emperor could no longer hide from himself that Cyprus was lost, and his affairs in the Holy Land wore a very gloomy aspect. By his command the governor of Cyprus issued a pr...

53. CHAPTER XXI.

Early next morning, on leaving my sleeping apartment, I found my dragoman, in company with a young dealer in Paphian curiosities, hanging about the door, and evidently on the wa...

35. CHAPTER III.

This city, called by the Greeks Levkosia, and by the Turks Lefkoscha, impressed me more than any other Oriental town I have visited. An indescribable blending of Eastern and Wes...

34. CHAPTER II.

The better class of houses stand within a court-yard and garden, and are furnished with large verandahs, supported by light pillars. Women and girls of the lowest class were to...

59. CHAPTER XXVII.

Next morning we journeyed onwards towards Amathus. The day was lovely, one of the most exquisite I have ever experienced in any climate, and as we galloped along, my veins seeme...

49. CHAPTER XVII.

My journey terminated for the present at the house of the Bishop of Baffo, who resides in Ktima. The bishop, who is a young and stately man, received me with the greatest kindne...

45. CHAPTER XIII.

The stumbling of my horse roused me from the foregoing reflections, on the history of the famous mountain beneath the shadow of which we now rode. Our path lay over steep and ru...

48. CHAPTER XVI.

As we gradually emerged into the open country, I recognised our geographical position, and experienced fresh astonishment at the number of fine streams, by which, if proper just...

58. CHAPTER XXVI.

Whilst I was in Kolossin I learnt that some fine marble pillars, which lay outside in the court-yard, had been brought from the Abbey of St. Nicholas, which was only some few le...

36. CHAPTER IV.

When standing amidst the grand relics of a past age which meet the eye at every turn in the capital of this beautiful island, or when wandering about its dirty narrow streets, I...

39. CHAPTER VII.

Our road (with my servants we were a party of four) lay now for half a league along the declivity, our path appearing and disappearing at frequent intervals. As we passed along...

61. CHAPTER XXIX.

In my eagerness to obtain all possible information, concerning the manners and customs of the people, I had often to encounter much disappointment. Imagine my disgust upon one o...

33. CHAPTER I.

The first approach to Larnaka, the chief sea-port of Cyprus, is well calculated to impress the traveller. The boundless expanse of blue sky and sea, the bold outline of the hill...

57. CHAPTER XXV.

For nearly three hundred years the dynasty of Lusignan ruled over a flourishing and important country. Monks, knights, merchants, and priests thronged to its hospitable shores,...

38. CHAPTER VI.

Cyprus, the most eastern island of the Mediterranean, must be regarded as belonging to Western Europe, if we are to class it by its architecture, its Gothic cathedrals, lordly c...

55. CHAPTER XXIII.

On our approach to this village, I sent forward my dragoman to secure us lodgings for the night. As we followed him at the distance of about a mile we saw a huge square tower st...

42. CHAPTER X.

Towards evening we came in sight of Mount Olympus. Water, as clear as crystal, was trickling down the lower rocks in all directions, and a delicious breeze blowing from Olympus...

60. CHAPTER XXVIII.

When we left Amathus, our road lay over a barren mountainous tract, entirely destitute of every charm, but as we reached Cape Karubieh, a scene of great beauty opened up from th...

43. CHAPTER XI.

We now pursued our way towards Olympus. At every stage fresh beauties met our view, and every object was smiling with the first fresh loveliness of spring. Oaks, plantains, oliv...

50. CHAPTER XVIII.

In an account given by General Cesnola of a similar journey to mine, across a portion of the island, he states that travellers in Cyprus will find it much more convenient to pur...

52. CHAPTER XX.

The climate of Cyprus is just now the subject of so much discussion in England, that we cannot do better than lay the following facts before our readers, only premising that we...

41. CHAPTER IX.

Early on the morning of the 25th of April, I bade adieu to Nikosia, the capital of Cyprus—a fair city even in these days of her ruin and decay. As I look back at her, as she app...

51. CHAPTER XIX.

One of the most pleasing features of the island is the everyday domestic life of its inhabitants. The members of every family cling inseparably together, and share among themsel...

46. CHAPTER XIV.

Cyprus, of late years, has been gradually sinking to decay through the supine indolence and indifference of her degraded population. In no particular does the whole surface of t...

37. CHAPTER V.

We will now give our readers a brief sketch of the position held by the various classes during these three centuries. The knights and citizens, the former principally French and...

54. CHAPTER XXII.

Next morning I could not resist taking another look at Old Paphos, and accordingly made my way to the heights behind the village, in order to impress the charming landscape as d...

47. CHAPTER XV.

Happily for this unfortunate island, the plagues of locusts which formerly were very common, are now unknown. An old chronicle informs us that from the year 1411 to 1413 every t...

56. CHAPTER XXIV.

A glance at the map shows us that the island of Cyprus is naturally divisible into three regions, all widely differing from each other. Along the entire length of its northern d...

8. CHAPTER VIII

Visit from the Pacha—One Hundred Years Ago—How Governors feathered their Nests—Poll-tax—Expostulation—Report to the Sultan—Arrival of the Imperial Envoy—Public Reading of the Su...

12. CHAPTER XII.

Descent of Olympus—A Retrospect—The busy Phœnicians—Shipbuilders for the Euphrates—The Goddess Astarte—The New Religion—Trojan War, the first Struggle between East and West—Grec...

2. CHAPTER II.

Streets of Larnaka—Game Birds—Mountain of Olympus—Negro Slaves—Natives of Athienu—Attack on Famagusta—Repulse of the Turks—Six Months’ Siege—Honourable Terms—Meeting of rival Ge...

4. CHAPTER IV.

A German Kingdom—Richard Cœur de Lion—Cyprus sold to Lusignan—Knights Templars—Amalrick—Becomes a Vassal to Henry the Sixth of Germany—From A.D. 1285 to A.D. 1373—Conquest of Sm...

16. CHAPTER XVI.

Rivers of Southern Cyprus—Rippling Waters—View of the Monastery of Kikku—A valuable Picture—Panagia—Wild Fruits—The Monks disturbed—Fine Figure of the Saviour—Carvings—Breakfast...

17. CHAPTER XVII.

Bishop of Baffo—View of the Ruins—Gigantic Stones—Old Temple—Curious Holes in Stones, producing Echo—Mosaics—Sacrificial Rites—The Idol Stone—Ruins of former City—View from the...

3. CHAPTER III.

Morning Impressions—Easter Eve—Gardens of Fruit Trees—Society—Costume of the Ladies—Beauties of Cyprus—Adoption of Turkish Customs—Language—Cathedral of St. Sophia—Church of St....

1. CHAPTER I.

First View of Larnaka—Arrival—The Haven—The Town—Catholic Church—Fine Carving—Kissing Relics—Marble Sarcophagi—Tombs—Derivation of Name of Larnaka—Phœnicians—Kiti—Language—Shall...

26. CHAPTER XXVI.

News of Marble Relics—Off to search—Heavy Weather—Church of St. Nicholas—Ancient Temple—Monastery Garden—Salt Marsh—Building Houses—Turkish Women, Coquetry—Franciscan Convent—Mo...

13. CHAPTER XIII.

Dangerous Ground—Disappointment—Easter-Eve Festivities—An Official Menace—Hear of a Gentleman—Demons and Kobolds—Fini—Arrival—Stable Accommodation—The Dragoman again—Hunger—Cloi...

27. CHAPTER XXVII.

A Morning Ride—A sudden Change—The devouring Lion—Heat—Favoured Tracts—Site of Amathus—Export of Stone—A natural Fortress—Hamath—French Antiquarians—A precious Relic—Vandalism b...

30. CHAPTER XXX.

Frederick the Second—An imperial Marriage—Cyprian Opinions—Barons—Knights—Importance of Cyprus as a Military Position—Regency—Quarrels—Promises of Amendment—Form of Government—D...

6. CHAPTER VI.

Cyprus, European or Asian?—Buffavento—Excursion to inspect Buffavento—Carrying Fire-arms prohibited—A quiet Morning Ride—An old Turk and his Wives—The Northern Range of Mountain...

7. CHAPTER VII

Bee-hives—The Queen’s Castle—Paradise—Take a Guide—Gradual Ruin—En Avant—The Guides suspect Treasure Hunting—The Fortress—Zaptiehs and their Masters—Plucky Guide—The Highest Tow...

25. CHAPTER XXV.

Under the Lusignans—Wine, Oil, &c.—Carob-tree—Cyprian Dyes—Grasping Policy of Venice—Olive-trees—Government of Cyprus—A valuable Farm—Sultan of Egypt—Tribute—Turks—Flowers—Tobac...

21. CHAPTER XXI.

Dealer in Curiosities—Ktima—Rock-cut Tombs—Palæo Castro—Graves—Antiquities—Ossuaries—Relics of Funeral Feasts—Ruins of a Temple—St. Paul—Koloni—Asbestos—Sacred Garden—Bath of Ap...

32. CHAPTER XXXII.

The Projected Railway—Cyprus a Terminal Station—Sir F. Goldsmid—Position of Cyprus—Ports—Commerce—Harbours—Different Routes for Line—Mr. W.P. Andrew—Political Importance of Line...

11. CHAPTER XI.

A Mountain Pass—Lost our Way—Heroism of the Dragoman!—Sight of a Glacier—Absence of Large Timber at Base of Mountain—Dragoman again! who fairly bolts—Horses and Zaptieh left beh...

14. CHAPTER XIV.

Neglect of Forests—Preservation by former Rulers—Gradual Destruction—Shipbuilding—Exportation of Timber—Wanton Destruction—Forest Fires—Resin and Pitch—Process of extracting Res...

31. CHAPTER XXXI.

Cyprus lost—A Fleet sent—Ibelin at Beyrut—Internal Disaffection—Defeat of Ibelin—Strenuous Efforts to raise Money—Bank Notes—The Genoese Rise—Defeat of the Imperialists—Death of...

5. CHAPTER V.

Social Positions of the various Classes—Vassalage—Form of Government—Marriage of Lady Vassals—Law Courts—Assizes of Jerusalem—Custody of the Book of the Law—John d’Ibelin—Knight...

29. CHAPTER XXIX.

Dancing Girls—Aphrodite—St. George the Martyr—Patron Saint of England—Legend of St. George—Tenets of the Greek Church—Clergy—Churches—Servia—Panagia—Sunday Trading—Handsome Girl...

28. CHAPTER XXVIII.

Cape Karubieh—Deserted Village—Fruit Ships—Fruit—Carob-trees—A Cyprian Farm-house—Our worthy hostess—Light soil—Farm Labourers—Cost of living—Priests—Hospitality—Kiti—Mount of t...

15. CHAPTER XV.

Locusts in olden Times—An Egyptian Plague for Two Years—Gradual Increase—Young Locusts—Devastation—Energy of Turkish Pacha—Troops are called out—A Remedy is found—M. Mattei—The...

9. CHAPTER IX.

Expedition to ascend Olympus—No Information to be obtained—Neglected Districts—Game—Prompt Action of my Zaptieh—Faithful obedience of Mussulman Servants—Akazi—Easter—Fasting ext...

10. CHAPTER X.

Cool Waters—Evrychu—In Church—Healthy Population—Graceful and interesting Customs—Greek Houses—Our Host and his Family—An Easter Dinner—Classic Christian Names—Absence of large...

18. CHAPTER XVIII.

24. CHAPTER XXIV.

20. CHAPTER XX.

19. CHAPTER XIX.

22. CHAPTER XXII.

23. CHAPTER XXIII.