Part 4

If blocks are to be used, paste together the two end divisions of the newsboard, put the block inside, and paste on the strip of vellum. Place one end of the vellum flush with one edge of the case, and cover one broad face first. (See Plate XXXVI.) Before rubbing down the vellum on the next face, be sure that it is pulled as closely as possible over the edge, leaving no wrinkles or loose places. When all the faces have been covered, there should remain a margin of vellum to lap onto the face first covered. If this is pasted down very closely, it will be almost invisible.

If no blocks are available, three faces should be covered before joining the two end pieces of newsboard, which should then be covered as one piece. Lay each face as it is being pasted so that one edge is at the edge of the desk or table, and allow the rest of the case to hang over the side. (See Plate XXXVII.) In this way the faces may be easily covered. Next make a longitudinal cut on the projecting vellum as far as the newsboard at each corner of the case. The resulting laps may then be easily pasted down onto the inside of the case.

Over the narrow faces of the inner holder paste the strips of vellum, cut for this purpose. Paste and fold their ends over the edges of the newsboard. These ends fit a little better if two slits are made in each at the fold of the newsboard. Cover the broad faces with the lining paper, turning and pasting the laps over the edges closely. The corners should be cut as in the flat objects described in previous articles. This inner part should not be pressed as a flat piece as this would cause the paper to crack open when folded for use.

If desired, the inside may be lined with white paper, in which case the pieces should be put in separately instead of in one long strip. This is difficult for any but most skillful workers.

B. A holder of similar construction, but of convenient size to hold note or letter paper makes an excellent filing case.

Problem XI

SLIP BOX[4]

TIME: 6 hours.

MATERIALS: Newsboard, vellum, thin paper.

This box (Plate XXXVIII) by varying the size may be used for holding pencils, checkers, a picture puzzle, or for other purposes.

Accurately lay out the box on the newsboard as shown in the drawing and cut on the outside lines, preferably with the cardboard cutter. Along the edges of the base score with a sharp knife or strong pin and turn up the sides with the lines outside. The corners should be stayed with a strip of vellum as shown to hold the box in shape.

Cut a strip of lining or other thin paper long enough to extend around the box and lap over about ½ inch; the width should be at least one inch greater than height of sides. Paste this strip to the sides of the box allowing surplus width to extend equally above and below.

At each corner of the box make cuts in the paper so that it may be pasted to the inside of the box at one edge and to the bottom of the box at the other. It is advised that no attempt be made to line either the inside or the base. The case should be enough larger than the box to allow the latter to slip easily but not fall out. By making each side of the case ⅛ of an inch wider than the corresponding sides of the box, this is accomplished. It will be noticed that three narrow faces are shown in the drawing. Lap the broader outside face B over the narrower one A and paste securely. This gives stability to the outside.

Cut a strip of vellum long enough to paste around the box and extend beyond it at least ½ inch at each end. Paste this to the foundation; at each corner make cuts in the vellum, and paste projecting parts to the inside of the foundation.

[4] From “War Time Occupations.”

Problem XII

A PORTFOLIO

TIME: 6 hours.

MATERIALS: Newsboard, vellum, cover paper, lining paper, tape.

(A). This portfolio consists of two foundation pieces of newsboard, covered and lined with paper and joined by a back of vellum. Let the size and shape of these covers be determined by the use to which they are to be put. They may be for drawings, maps, compositions, etc. The size of the newsboard will practically be the size of the finished portfolio, and should be somewhat larger than the papers it is to hold.

Plan the back, which consists of two pieces of vellum, wide enough to allow for the space desired between the covers, and also to lap onto each cover at least one inch. One piece of vellum should be long enough to lap over the ends of the newsboard about ½ an inch, and the other piece should be about ⅛ of an inch shorter than the newsboard.

Plan the cover paper to be large enough to allow for ½ inch lap to fold over the three free edges, but remember to allow a margin of vellum to show at the other edge. Plan the lining paper to be small enough to allow the foundation to extend beyond it at least ⅛ of an inch on all sides.

Make dimensioned sketches of all pieces and lay out and cut all parts. (See Plate XXXIX.) Place the newsboard foundations on the short piece of vellum the proper distance apart, with equal amounts of vellum extending under each. The newsboard, of course, will extend at each end a trifle beyond the vellum. When the proper position is determined, draw pencil lines lengthwise of the vellum indicating the edge of each cover. Put paste on the vellum and rub down well onto the newsboard forming the inside of the hinge. To make sure that the upper and lower edges of the covers are in a continuous straight line, place a rule or straight edge against one cover, extending across and beyond the vellum; place the second cover against the rule and the edges will be in a straight line. (See Plate XL.) Paste the second piece of vellum onto the outside and turn the projecting ends over the newsboard, pasting them down.

Properly place one foundation piece on the cover paper, allowing the vellum to show where it laps onto the newsboard, and draw around it. The amount of vellum which is to show is a problem in space division. Just how much will look well on the particular cover under consideration should be carefully thought out.

Apply paste to the cover paper, noting that it requires more skill to spread paste uniformly on a heavy paper than on vellum or lining paper. Place one piece of newsboard on the paper as previously marked, turn them over and rub down. A piece of cloth held in the hand and used for rubbing the surface prevents finger marks; or the rubbing may be done on a piece of paper laid over the surface. The cover paper should cling firmly to the foundation at every point and this should be assured before proceeding. Apply paste to the projecting laps, fold them over and rub down. Treat the other half in the same manner.

It is desirable to tie the portfolio together on one side at least. For this purpose secure tape of harmonizing color and ⅜ or ½ inch in width. About ½ an inch from and parallel to the front edges cut a slit through both paper and newsboard of the same length as the width of the tape. (This needs to be done with a knife or, better yet, with a chisel.) Insert a piece of tape from 6 to 9 inches long in each slit and securely paste at least 1 inch to the inside of the newsboard, allowing the greater length to project from the outside. Paste the lining paper on the inside of each half and this will cover the pasted end of the tape. The portfolio is then complete.

(B). By a different arrangement of tape the same kind of portfolio may be used as a magazine holder or cover for a paper book or pamphlet. Plan the newsboard foundations to project ⅛ of an inch beyond the book on three sides. The space between the two pieces of newsboard should be at least an inch greater than the thickness of the book so that the covers will lie flat when the book is inside. It will be seen that with so wide a space the inner edge of the newsboard will not extend as far back as the back of the book, and in planning the newsboard it should actually be narrower than the book. Make dimensioned sketches of all pieces and lay out and cut all parts.

Construct the covers as for the portfolio, but insert the tape as follows: About ¾ of an inch from both upper and lower edges of the back cover, and just where the cover paper laps onto the vellum, make slits of the same width as the tape and parallel to the edges. Push one end of the tape through from the outside and paste, with the end turned toward the edge. Carry the tape over the adjacent edge along inside of the cover and over the opposite edge where it should be inserted in the second slit and pasted on the inside as at the other end. A little slackness of tape is not objectionable. The lining paper may come to the edge of the tape, or, with more difficulty, be slipped under it.

When one cover of the book has been placed under the tape, it should hold it securely. (See Plate XLI.)

If desired, there is here an excellent opportunity for the application of a cover design. This may consist of simple straight line borders in lower grades, or of more elaborate designs in upper grades. (See Plate XLII.) Lettering also may be used either singly or combined with decorative figures. The design should be carefully planned before any attempt is made to place it upon the finished cover. Erasures are always noticeable and should be avoided. It is recommended that straight lines should be drawn with a rule, and the distance of the border from the edge measured either with a rule or a piece of paper. The decoration may be applied with ink, crayons, or water color. Common ink diluted gives the effect of a darker tone of the color of the paper and as it is easily obtained it is on the whole a satisfactory medium. (See Plate XLIII.)

Problem XIII

STATIONERY HOLDER

TIME: 8 hours.

MATERIALS: Newsboard, vellum and paper.

A very satisfactory stationery holder (see Plates XLIV and XLV) may be made by substituting pockets, etc., for the plain lining of the portfolio. Make the outside as described in Problem XII. Then cut for each half, a piece of newsboard one-quarter of an inch shorter and narrower than the outside pieces. Cover one of these smaller pieces with the same paper that is used on the outside turning over a margin of one-half an inch on each of the four sides. At each corner attach suitable pieces for holding a blotter. (See page 33.) When pressed and dried this forms a lining for one side. The other piece of newsboard should be used as a foundation for a “bellows pocket” for holding stationery. First bind one long edge with a strip of vellum having it show on the upper surface for about an inch and a half. The pocket should be made of vellum and when completed, should be as large as the newsboard foundation. To give strength and stability to this cut a piece of paper of the same size as the newsboard. Plan and cut a piece of vellum 5 inches longer and an inch and a half wider than this. Lay the paper lining on the vellum with an equal amount of vellum projecting at each end, and fold the vellum over one long edge of the paper for its entire length and to the depth of about one inch. Paste the hem thus made to the paper but do not paste the broad face as this will cause wrinkling. Then fold the vellum over each end of the paper sharply and make a reverse fold one inch from the end. Place this vellum on the newsboard with the hem of the pocket against the bound edge of the newsboard, and on the other three sides turn over the projecting vellum and paste to the under side of the newsboard. Before pasting in this piece and the blotter for linings, a fastener or tape should be inserted as already described.

The holder may be made more elaborate by adding a third page which should be narrower than the other two and when folded together will appear as a flap. Cut a piece of newsboard for its foundation and fasten to one of the large pieces in the same manner as the two large pieces are attached. To line this, cut a piece of newsboard one-quarter of an inch shorter and narrower than the outside piece and cover it with a single piece of vellum; or pockets may be added and a strap for holding pen or pencil.

Some very handsome cases can thus be made by using wall papers on the broad faces. Narrow stripes or gold bands used as border decorations on the corners of the blotter or the edge of the pockets are very effective while figures well cut may be appliqued to the outside or the inside.

For fastening, use cord, tape or ribbon which should be inserted before the linings are pasted in. To illustrate: Pass a ribbon across the outside of the middle piece, putting each end through a slit--say one inch from the edge--and glue these firmly to the newsboard. Through a slit in the other broad face pass another length of ribbon on the end of which shall be a Japanese bead; on the narrow face in similar fashion attach a loop of ribbon (made by passing both ends through the same slit). When closed the case may be fastened by putting the bead through the loop.

Another style of fastener consists of a cord or braid similarly inserted with a fancy knot in place of the bead.

Problem XIV

SEWING AND BINDING A BOOK

TIME: 10 hours.

MATERIALS: Newsboard,[5] vellum, cover paper, white paper, tape, sewing linen, and “super.”

There are several ways of sewing a book and even more ways of binding it after it is sewed. The first method here given is the simplest, and is such as is feasible in a fifth or sixth grade without a sewing frame, a press, or other apparatus than the simple tools required in the previous problems.

First determine the shape and size of the book. It is better at first not to attempt a book which is very thick, seven to twelve signatures being sufficient for a beginning. A “signature” is the name applied to a folded sheet, several of which go to make up the inside of a book. If the sheet is folded once it is called a “folio”; if twice, a “quarto”; if three times, an “octavo.” (See Plate XLVI.) These signatures, when sewed together, form what is technically known as “the book,” and the covers and back “the case.”

[5] A book-cover may be made of heavier newsboard than the articles previously described, although in elementary grades it will probably be more convenient to use one weight only. Number 30 is commonly used for books of ordinary size (say 7½ × 5¼ inches), while for larger books (10 × 7 inches) a still heavier board is used.

With a piece of cheap paper experiment a little, folding it one or more times and if necessary trimming the edges to change size or proportions. When the size is determined, cut a sufficient number of sheets, fold, and “stack” (pile) them for sewing. If the paper provided is too small to be used for a “quarto,” place one “folio” inside another which will give two thicknesses of paper at each fold and will have the same effect as a “quarto.” If desired, two or three sheets of paper may be placed together before folding so that there will be several thicknesses at the back.

These signatures are to be sewed over three pieces of tape, one to be at the middle of the fold, one from 1 to 1½ inches from each end, according to the size of the pages. On the back of the first signature mark carefully the position of the edges of each piece of tape, and additional points ½ an inch from each end. The latter points show the location of the “kettle stitches.”

Replace this signature on the others and mark across the backs of all, locating similar points on other signatures with as much accuracy as possible. (See Plate XLVII.) The major folds should then be “jogged up” evenly at the back, and the minor folds at the “head” or top.

At each point on each signature make a hole for sewing by opening the signatures and piercing through with a needle from the back. Replace the signatures in the same order as before. Cut three pieces of tape about three inches long. Place the first signature on the deck or table with the fold of the back toward the operator. The left hand should be placed inside the signature to receive and return the threaded needle which is pushed through from the outside by the right hand. (See Plate XLVIII.) Pass the thread in through the first hole (leaving an end long enough for tying), out through the second hole, over the tape, in through the third hole, out through the fourth hole, over the second tape, in through the fifth hole, out through the sixth hole, over the third tape, in through the seventh hole, and out through the eighth or last hole of the signature.

Close this signature and place the second signature on top of the first; then pass the thread in through the eighth hole of the second signature, and out through the seventh hole, over the tape, in through the sixth hole and so on until the thread comes out through the first hole. Tie the thread to the loose short end in a square or hard knot. Place the third signature on top of the second and proceed as before. On reaching the end of the third signature, pass the needle under the stitch connecting the first and second signatures and through the loop formed by the thread. (See Plate XLIX.) Pull tightly to form the “kettle stitch” which should be made at the end of every signature hereafter. In the same manner any number of signatures may thus be sewed to form a book.

For fly-leaves, prepare four single sheets folded once, to be of the same size as the leaves of the book. Place these folded sheets one on top of another leaving about ⅛ of an inch of the folded edge of each exposed, the upper sheet being protected by a piece of waste paper. Rub paste over the exposed surface of all four at the same time. (See Plate L.) Remove the upper sheet and with its pasted edge downward place it upon the front signature of the book, its folded edge being flush with the folded edges of the sewed part, and the tapes thrown back out of the way. After rubbing this sheet well down, open it and place the second sheet inside the first, having its pasted edge downward also. See that the folds exactly fit, and rub down the second sheet. Turn the book over and repeat the process on the opposite side. (See page 93-D). Before proceeding farther the “book” should be dried under weight.

Lay the “book” flat on the desk and with a wooden mallet hammer the folds at the back which will make the signatures lie close together. Turn the “book” over and repeat the process. A few strokes are sufficient. Cover the back with paste (or, if available, hot glue; do not attempt cold), and rub it well in with the fingers that it may hold the signatures together and prevent their spreading. Use only a thin, even coat of paste; pull the tapes tightly across the back, and paste their ends to the outside leaves.

Cut a strip of “super” a little shorter than the length of the back, and wide enough to extend on to the fly-leaves about 1 inch. Place this over the freshly pasted back and rub it well on. Paste the part of the “super” which extends onto each side to the outside leaves over the tapes. When perfectly dry cut off about two-thirds of the width of each outside leaf, leaving a stub onto which the super and tapes are already pasted. The ends of these stubs should be slanted by cutting from the binding toward the front of the book.

The “case,” which should be a trifle longer than the “book,” should be constructed similarly to the portfolio but without tape or lining paper, and with but one strip of vellum (the long one) on the back. Plan to have the covers extend beyond the front and ends of the book about ⅛ of an inch; but as the newsboard foundations should set forward from the binding about ¼ of an inch. Their width should be a trifle less than the width of the pages. Make dimensioned sketches of all pieces and lay out and cut all parts. (See Plate LI.)

Place the pieces of newsboard on each side of the “book” in the exact position they are intended to occupy. Take a narrow strip of paper and attach its ends to the outside of the pieces of newsboard (see Plate LII) so that when the latter are removed from the “book” they will be attached to each other the correct distance apart; that is the space between them will be at least ½ an inch greater than the thickness of the book. Place them on the vellum and trace along the inner edge of each after ascertaining that the distance between them is the same at both ends. Remove the paper which connects the covers and paste them to the vellum in the position already marked out, but do not yet turn over the ends of vellum. Cut a strip of heavy paper of just the width of the back of the “book” and paste in the middle of the piece of vellum, after which the ends of vellum should be turned over and pasted down. Complete the “case” by pasting on the cover paper after which it should be pressed and dried.

When this is done place the “book” as far back in the “case” as it is possible to do and be certain that the edges of the covers are in alignment. Make tiny pencil marks at the front edge of the leaves to guide the placing of the “book” after the paste is spread. When necessary lines or points have been located remove the “book” from the “case” and prepare to paste.

Under the first whole leaf place a piece of newspaper considerably larger than the “book” to protect the pages. Spread paste over the surface of this leaf, first under the stub which should then be pushed down with the brush to hold it securely to the outside leaf; then cover the outside of the stub with paste. Place the “book” in the “case” following the guide lines previously made, and press the covers together with the hands. Lay the book on the desk or table with the pasted half down. (See Plate LIII.) Open at the pasted leaf a very little way and carefully rub the lining onto the cover, smoothing out any wrinkles which may appear. Turn the book over and repeat the process with the other cover. Do not open wide until the book has been pressed.

This should be done very effectually and for this purpose two boards clamped together with handscrews make a better press than a weight. If two thin pieces of tin, zinc, or blotting-paper are placed between the “case” and the “book” while in press it will prevent the moisture from being absorbed by the leaves, causing them to wrinkle.

VARIATIONS

Several variations of the “case” are possible.