Part 3

A. With soft pencil darken alternate squares leaving others of the original color. Begin with the upper row, and take successive rows downward. Across the paper lay a rule just below the lower edge of the squares to be darkened. With the pencil make vertical strokes only, using the side of the pencil to give an even surface free from ridges. Be careful with the lines at the right and left edges that they do not extend into the adjoining space. The edge of the rule will stop the strokes at the right place at the bottom and they should not extend quite to the top as this can be adjusted later. When all rows are finished, turn paper around so that what was top is now bottom, and complete squares by the same method.

B. Instead of pencil, colored crayons may be used in the same manner as already described.

C. Crayons of two colors may be used in alternate squares, or one color and a black pencil. Orange and black or red and black are pleasing combinations.

D. Ink or water may be applied with a brush.

When completed place the “board” so that a dark square is in the upper left and lower right corners respectively, and cut open vertically, removing about ¼” from the center two halves. If no space is left, the paper soon cracks in folding; if too little space is left, the edges soon turn and later become ”dog-eared“; if too much is left, it is confusing to the players, as theoretically there should be no space at all. Paste these pieces to each half of the cover, placing them about ¼” apart, and dry flat under weight.

When thoroughly dry, the inner surface should be varnished with shellac or valspar to give stability to the color. Otherwise, it soon becomes rubbed and the appearance, if not the utility, of the board is spoiled. One coat is sufficient to hold the color, but if a polished surface is desired two are needed.

The question of coating the outside with shellac or other polish is an open one, and may be decided to suit the individual taste.

It is sometimes desirable to show that an article is the product of the schoolroom, and in this case a neatly printed label with a space for the pupil’s name, etc., may be pasted to the outside.

If larger boards are desired make the squares one inch in size leaving ¾” margin. The foundation consists of two pieces of newsboard, each 4⅝” × 9½” and the vellum for covering should be 11½” square. The process of assembling is like that used in the small board.

CHECKERS

I. Dowels. Checkers may be made from dowels ⅝” or ¾” for small checkerboards and ⅞” or 1” for the larger boards. Broom handles, etc., may be used as substitutes for the dowels.

The checkers should be of a uniform thickness, and this is best secured by using a combination mitre-box, saw, and gauge. If this is not available, any other means may be employed to saw the dowels into disks ⅛” or ³⁄₁₆” in thickness.

Lay a piece of sandpaper on a flat surface and rub the checkers on this to remove saw marks. Two grades of sandpaper give a better finish than one.

To play the game, it is necessary that there should be two colors of checkers. Some woods present sufficient difference in their natural colors to serve this purpose, but it is generally better that one set at least should be artificially colored. For this, use stain or ink. Place some of the fluid in a shallow dish, and drop the checkers into it. Remove at once with nippers or two sticks, and lay on a paper to dry.

Most stains will stand some water, but common ink would wash out if rained on. So to preserve the color, checkers dyed with ink should afterward be dropped into a thin shellac and taken out and dried. Those of natural color should also be shellaced as they keep clean much longer. After the shellac is dry, there is a little roughness on the surface. If this is rubbed off with fine sandpaper the checkers are much more agreeable to handle. Twelve checkers of each color are needed for a set but three or four extra ones may be added. Put these in a strong bag securely tied.

II. Button Molds. Instead of using dowels, as just described, wooden button molds may be colored and used.

III. Buttons. Two contrasting colors of flat buttons make excellent checkers.

Problem VII

PICTURE FRAME

TIME: 4 hours.

MATERIALS: Newsboard, vellum or paper.

First choose size of picture and then width of frame. This may be uniform on all sides or one may observe the rules for margins shown on pages 21 and 22. Make a careful drawing of the outside of the frame and opening, and then lay out and cut the newsboard as indicated. For covering, plan and cut a piece of vellum, grass cloth, paper or other material which shall extend beyond the newsboard on each side for at least one-half an inch. On this material indicate the position of the newsboard including the opening for the picture. Also draw lines one-half an inch inside and parallel to the lines showing opening. Cut on these lines and at each corner cut oblique lines to allow the laps to fold under. For the back there should be planned and cut another piece of newsboard one-eighth of an inch shorter than the front and of the same width; and to cover it a strip of covering material three-eighths of an inch longer and one-quarter of an inch narrower than the newsboard. (See Plate XXII.)

To assemble: Paste the foundation of the front to the covering and turn under and paste the laps at the opening. At this time paste only one outside lap and that the top one. Over one end of the newsboard-back turn the outside strip about half an inch and paste this down leaving the remainder of the piece free. Place this piece of newsboard against the front, with the pasted end at the top, and over both pieces of newsboard paste the three laps attached to the front side. Fold back the free piece and paste as a lining over the back. To this may be pasted a patent hanger--a ring attached to a gummed disk. The picture should be inserted at the opening in the top.

If a double frame is desired (see Plate XXIII) make a frame for each picture but use for the back of each a piece of heavy paper which should not have an additional covering. Make a foundation which folds through the center planning to have it extend slightly beyond the frames as shown in Plate XXII; to each half of this foundation attach the frames already made.

C. Either style of frame may be made with a covering of silk, grass cloth, leather, and slightly padded. For this purpose use sheet wadding which should be firmly attached to the front of the foundation. Over this lay the covering material and paste the laps only, not the broad faces.

Problem VIII

HINGED COVERS

TIME: 8 hours.

MATERIALS: Newsboard, vellum, paper for leaves, eyelets, cord, and (if desired) cover paper for C and D.

NOTE: In selecting materials, choose those which harmonize with each other, i.e., the vellum, cover paper, and lining paper should be of the same hue.

The problem is to make two separate hinged covers between which loose leaves may be bound, the whole to be fastened together with macrame or other cord. This may be designed for one of many uses, suggestions for several of which follow (see Plate XXIV).

A. A SKETCH BOOK

In making dimensioned sketches for the various parts (see Plate XXV) determine first the size of the pages and plan the covers to extend beyond them about one-eighth of an inch. Make the sketches of the pages and the newsboard foundations. Lay out and cut the latter, of full size, and then from either a long or short side of each, in accordance with plan, cut a strip to form a hinge. The width of these strips may be from three-quarters of an inch to one inch. Vellum should be planned to cover completely one side of both pieces of each cover, to fold around the small piece and to lap over onto the large piece about one-half inch. It should also fold over the other three edges about one-half inch. (See Plate XXVI.) The lining paper should cover to within about one-eighth of an inch of the edges of the large pieces and should not extend onto the hinge. Constant bending soon breaks paper, but with ordinary use does not affect the tough vellum. Make dimensioned sketches of these pieces (see Plate XXV) and lay out and cut all remaining parts.

Properly place main part of newsboard on vellum, drawing around it. Lay small part one-eighth of an inch from main part and draw around it. Remove the pieces of newsboard and apply paste to vellum inside the pencil line, being careful to cover the surface smoothly and evenly; lay both back pieces in place, turn the vellum over and rub down. Cut from the projecting vellum on the hinged side a small piece even with the edges of the hinges as far as the outside corners (see Plate XXVI), and clip off the outside corners as before described. Apply paste to projecting vellum, fold over first the hinged side and its opposite, then the other two sides, and rub down. Paste the lining paper in and dry the covers separately under weight. Remember to place newspaper or blotting paper between each pair, otherwise the moisture from one will cause wrinkles in the other.

For the leaves, use drawing paper, which may be cut singly or in folio (with single fold). The latter method is preferable, as folded sheets are easier to place at the back, look better, and are more secure.

Two holes in each cover are sufficient for the cord, but a little care should be taken to determine the best position for them. The distance of each from the end of the hinge strips should be from one-fifth to one-sixth of its length, and, of course, they should be placed midway between the long edges. After punching the holes, see that the leaves are properly marked so that the holes in them will exactly fit the holes in the cover. To do this, place one sheet on the cover, leaving correct margins, and through the center of each hole mark the paper which should then be punched. Treat the other sheets in the same manner. Eyelets should be inserted in the covers only, and for that purpose a good eyelet punch is necessary. Directions for its use and sample eyelets accompany punches when sent from the dealer.

Complete by tying all together with a piece of cord. Make a small flat bow on the front cover.

B. A SCRAP BOOK

This should be planned and worked out in the same manner as the Sketch Book, but it should be somewhat larger, possibly 6 × 8½ inches. For the leaves, screenings or wrapping paper may be used.

To prevent covers from flaring after the book has been filled, the thickness at the back should be increased by additional folds in the paper, as shown in Plate XXVIIA. The “stub” should be about one inch wide after it is folded. The Japanese method, which is to fold a very long strip many times in the same manner, forms a pleasing arrangement (see Plate XXVIIB).

C. A POSTCARD ALBUM

Make the covers described in A and the leaves of a heavy paper. Green or brown screenings look well and give a background generally harmonious with colored postcards. The size of the leaves should be sufficient to leave a generous margin around the card. If two are to be placed on one page, have the space between less than the margins around the edges. A little additional margin at the bottom is always pleasing. Slits for holding the cards may be made in the following manner: cut a blank sheet of paper of the size of a postal card and from each corner measure both vertically and horizontally 1 to 1¼ inches and connect the adjacent corners with straight lines. Place this pattern in proper position and use the ends of the lines on it to locate the lines to be drawn on the page itself. It a hole is punched at each end of the line, it gives a neat appearance and prevents the paper from tearing easily. The lines on the page should be cut with a sharp knife. Insert each card by placing its corners in the slits.

A second set of oblique lines parallel to those already described may be drawn and cut three-eighths of an inch farther from each corner. This will form a strap to hold the cards in place, and on the opposite side of the leaf cards may be inserted in the outside slits.

D. A CLIPPING FILE

Between two separate covers several envelopes--say five--are to be fastened and used for holding clippings, etc. Select the envelopes--3½ by 9 inches is a convenient size. Plan covers to be about one-eighth of an inch longer on each end than the envelopes and seven-eighths of an inch wider. This allows three-quarters of an inch for the guard and also a projection of one-eighth of an inch on the opposite side. Strips of vellum should be planned to cover completely both sides of the hinge, to lap over onto the large piece about one inch both outside and in, and to extend beyond each end about one-half inch. To cover the rest of the newsboard, cover paper should be used and the pieces should lap over the vellum about three-quarters of an inch on the side next to the hinge and fold over the other edges about one-half an inch. The lining paper should cover to within one-eighth of an inch of the edges of the large pieces of newsboard. Make dimensioned sketches of all pieces and lay out and cut all parts.

Draw a line through the center of the vellum showing where the back edge of the small piece of newsboard should come. Lay main part one-eighth of an inch from this line and draw around the edges of both pieces except where the large piece projects beyond the vellum (see Plate XXVIII). Apply paste to vellum, lay pieces of newsboard in place, turn it over and rub down. Cut from the projecting vellum a small piece even with the ends of the hinges as far as the outside corners. Apply paste first to projecting ends, then to long strip; fold over and rub down.

Properly place cover on cover paper and draw around it. Apply paste to cover paper and finish as when vellum is used for entire cover. Paste in the lining paper and dry under weight.

Strips of vellum about 2½ inches wide and one inch longer than the envelopes should be folded lengthwise down the middle to form guards. Cut strips of newsboard three-quarters of an inch wide, and of the same length as the envelope. Apply paste to half the vellum and lay the newsboard on it with one edge against the center fold. Against the other edge of the newsboard lay the lower edge of the envelope with its ends and the ends of the newsboard in the same straight lines. Treat the ends of vellum in the same manner as on the covers. Punch holes in covers and guards, insert eyelets, and fasten together by tying, or with paper fasteners.

Problem IX

BOXES

TIME: 6 hours.

MATERIALS: Newsboard, stay-tape or vellum, and a thin paper.

First determine the size of the box, which should be made for a definite purpose. Consider the proportions of the width, length, and height; also the height of the sides of the cover.

A box consists of foundations of newsboard, the edges of which are stayed with strips of tape or vellum, and the outside covered with paper. The cover should be larger than the bottom by ⅛ inch in both directions to allow it to slip over the box. This amount will vary somewhat with the thickness of the newsboard, the paper with which it is covered, and the skill of the worker.

The foundation for each part is to be developed from a single piece of newsboard. The box and cover are to be covered with a thin paper. A great variety of paper for this purpose may be purchased, either figured or in plain colors.

For the box plan a strip of paper long enough to extend around the four sides and to provide for a lap where the ends join. Be generous with this lap, as it will be found that the paper “takes up” when it is pasted on. The width of the strip should be at least one inch more than the depth of the box. For the cover, plan covering paper like the newsboard development, but with its sides ½ inch or more wider to fold over the edges. Let the corner squares serve as laps. Make dimensioned sketches of all pieces and lay out and cut all parts. (See Plate XXIX.)

Along folding lines of the foundations score deeply with a knife, one blade of the scissors, or with a pin, and fold with the crease on the outside. It is essential to the success of the box to have this crease on the outside to insure a sharp, straight, and strong edge, which might otherwise be rounded, irregular, and weak.

Fasten the corners of both box and cover together with pieces of tape or strips of vellum, lapping onto the sides. (See Plate XXX.) If possible, allow the corners to dry before proceeding further.

Paste the strip of paper around the box, allowing ½ inch to project beyond both top and bottom edges. Rub down well. Make a vertical cut at each corner of upper projection and fold and paste laps down on the inside. (See Plate XXXI.)

Make a V-cut at each corner of the lower projection, fold and paste the laps against the bottom. (See Plate XXXII.) It will probably be necessary to apply more paste before finally rubbing these laps down.

Paste top of cover to the paper, leaving equal margins on all sides. From the two long edges make cuts to the corners of the newsboard foundation at right angles to its edges. Fold and paste paper over the ends of cover first, and then onto the inside, using the thumb to push the paper over the edges. (See Plate XXXI.) The cuts made from the long edges give an extra length to end coverings. Paste this extra piece onto long sides and then paste the part naturally to be used to cover these sides. The appearance of the box will be greatly improved by running the thumb and finger along the folded edges of the cover to sharpen them.

In this manner, boxes of any size may be made. Small boxes may be covered with linen, cretonne, or other kinds of cloth. In this case it may be better (after making the foundations as already described) to paste the covering to the inside of the foundation only, otherwise the surface might be discolored by the paste oozing through the cloth.

A box with a glass top is sometimes desirable for holding specimens of various kinds. Such a box may be made as above described with the following changes: If it is to be a sealed box the specimens should be properly placed in the box and the glass (which should be as large as the outside measurement of the box to prevent its dropping in) laid over the top before pasting down that part of the covering which projects above the box itself. When properly arranged this should then be pasted to the glass exactly as the laps are pasted to the bottom of the box.

If a removable cover is desired, cut strips of newsboard for the sides and a strip of material for covering them in the same manner that the box is covered. After staying the corners with vellum, paste on the strip of covering material; one edge of this should lap over the newsboard and be pasted to the inside of the cover and the other should hold the glass in position after it has been placed on the newsboard.

Problem X

POSTCARD HOLDER

TIME: 8 hours.

MATERIALS: Newsboard, vellum, and lining paper.

Before beginning this holder, it may be well to have collections made of cards relating to a definite subject. Interest in the study of various industries, history, and geography is greatly increased by the use of pictures, and in many places sets of cards prepared for such a purpose may be purchased.

This holder consists of an outside case into which the inner holder slips. (See Plate XXXIV.) The size of the faces may be determined by individual pupils, but, if the blocks to be described later are used, it will be quite essential to have a uniform size so that the blocks may be used interchangeably among the pupils. For this reason, it is recommended that the broad faces of the outside be about one inch larger in each direction than a postcard, and the narrow faces 1¼” wide.

Plan the foundation of a single piece of newsboard, as wide as the outside length of the holder, scored to divide it into the four faces above referred to, and a fifth division the exact size of one narrow face. Arrange these faces to be joined at their long edges with a narrow face on each end of the strip of newsboard so that when folded together one narrow face will be double, which gives greater stability to the shape of the holder. Plan a strip of vellum 2 inches wider than the length of the case, and long enough to extend around it, allowing for a lap at one corner. It will be found in putting on this vellum that it will require a piece longer than the sum of the width of the faces as, however closely it may be put on, it “takes up” at the corners. Therefore be generous with the lap as a little extra length does no harm.

For the inner holder plan a strip of newsboard ⅛” narrower than the case, scored to divide it into five parts. Two parts are to be of the same length as the case, alternating with two narrow faces ⅛” less than thickness of the case (that they may fit inside) and the fifth piece about one-half the length of the long faces.

Plan two strips of vellum to cover the narrow faces, and lap onto the adjoining faces about 1”. Allow ½” at each end to turn over the edges. For each of the three broad faces, plan a covering of lining paper which shall allow an edge of vellum to show at the joints, and shall lap over the other edges of the newsboard. Notice that these three pieces are of three different sizes.

Make dimensioned sketches of all pieces (See Plate XXXV) and lay out and cut all parts. Along the folding lines of both newsboard foundations, score and fold as explained in connection with the box.

When pasting the vellum onto the outside case, it will be found of great advantage to have blocks of wood to work around. If there is a woodworking room in connection with the school, these blocks may well be made there. They should be at least the full length of the case and may project beyond the ends. Their thickness should be the width of the narrow faces, and their width may be the same as that of the broad faces, or narrower. If narrower, the blocks may be slipped along as the vellum is being rubbed down.

The strip of vellum for covering the outside is so large that it is difficult for a child to cover it with paste, before a part of it has dried. It is better, therefore, to paste a little more than enough for one face at a time, rub this down, apply paste again, and so on to the end. By putting the paste a little beyond were it is needed there is a certainty of leaving no dry areas at the corners.