Chapter 22
This little work-case, of darned netting and blue satin, is five inches and four-fifths long, four inches wide, and is fastened with a loop and button. The back, front, side, and the flap are worked all in one piece. The netting is worked with white thread No. 12, over a mesh measuring at least two-fifths of an inch round. For the flap the netting must be slanted off on both sides; this is done either by decreasings, or by cutting off the corners of the work. The latter is then darned in linen stitch, darning stitch, and point d'esprit, from No. 572, which shows the front of the case, and from No. 571, which shows the back. The netting is then lined with blue satin, and sewn together at the sides with button-hole stitches on the right side. The flap is edged with button-hole stitch; sew on a small button, and make a small loop to correspond. The case is edged all round with blue silk cord.
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573.--_Banner Screen in Guipure d'Art_.
Materials: Netting; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 12; carved oak stand; glacé silk; cords; tassels.
Banner-screens are used in two ways, either suspended from the mantelpiece or mounted as shown in illustration No. 573. The banner is 23 inches long, 19 inches wide, lined with coloured glacé silk, and edged with a lace border of guipure d'art. The design for the banner is given in page 554. Work the netting for the groundwork over a larger or smaller mesh, according to the size you wish it to be. The pattern is worked in point d'esprit, point de reprise, and point de toile. When the pattern is completed, line the banner with coloured silk, edge with a gathered border of guipure d'art, finish with coloured silk cords and tassels. The banner may be finished off in close button-hole stitch, instead of adding the lace border.
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575.--_Border in Guipure d'Art_.
Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 8.
This border is suited for couvrettes. It is worked in point d'esprit, point de reprise, or plain darning stitch, edged by a row of button-hole, and finished with a crochet edging.
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576.--_Square in Guipure d'Art_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 12; netted square of 20 holes.
This pretty square is worked in a pattern formed by point de feston, point de toile, and point de reprise, the star in the centre as that shown on page 514, omitting the alternate points; border of point d'esprit, ground worked in simple crossed bars.
Table of the right size of Mecklenburg thread to use in working:--
|----------------------------------|--------------| | | No. | |----------------------------------|--------------| | Antimacassars | 2 | | Borders | 4 | | Handkerchiefs | 20 | | Insertions | 8 | | Lace edgings and insertions | 16 | | Lamp shades | 16 | | Parasol covers | 18 | | Sachets | 12 | | Sofa cushions | 8 | | Toilet cushions | 10 | | Toilet mats | 10 | |----------------------------------|--------------|
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FRAMES
May be obtained for large, middle-size, and small squares.
Oblong frames are used for working insertions and lace edgings.
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BERLIN WORK
INSTRUCTIONS.
Berlin Work includes every kind of stitch which is made upon canvas with wool, silk, or beads. The principal stitches used are common cross stitch, Gobelin stitch, leviathan stitch, raised or velvet stitch, tent stitch, and others. The materials and needle must always be carefully chosen of a corresponding size. For common cross stitch and raised stitch Penelope canvas must be used; for small articles, such as slippers, bags, or borders, single Berlin wool is preferable; for larger ones fleecy wool or double Berlin wool (the latter, however, is much more expensive). For Gobelin stitch and tent stitch undivided canvas (not Penelope) is required. Purse silk is often used for the latter; it is more brilliant than floss silk or filoselle. Floss silk is generally used for other stitches because it covers the thread of the canvas better than purse silk; it is, however, often replaced by filoselle, which is a much cheaper material. Moss wool is hardly ever used. Before beginning to work upon a piece of canvas the raw edges must be hemmed or sewn over with wool. Care must be taken not to crumple the canvas in the course of the work. It is best to roll one end of the canvas upon a round piece of deal while the other end is kept down upon the table with a lead cushion. Handsome artistic patterns should always be worked in a frame. When you undertake to work a large pattern begin in the centre, and complete one half before you commence the other. Always work the stitches in the same direction, from the top downwards--this is very essential to the beauty and regularity of the pattern.
Always begin with the colour which is used the oftenest; those colours that lose their dye in working must be put in last. When the pattern is finished begin the grounding. The wool must not be drawn too tightly, otherwise the threads of the canvas appear. If the wool is too coarse for the canvas, one long stitch is to be made from left to right as far as the particular colour is to be worked, and over this long stitch, cross back in the usual way.
The plainest stitch in Berlin wool work is the common cross stitch; illustrations 577 to 584 show varieties of the same.
We now proceed in the following pages to show, by description in writing and by most careful illustration, all the stitches which are used in Berlin Work. These are numerous, but neither too great in number nor too simple or too elaborate in execution for those who aspire to become Berlin workers.
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ILLUSTRATION 577.--The common cross stitch is worked in rows backwards and forwards over 2 threads in height and 2 in width (square of the canvas) in straight lines; the 1st row is worked from left to right; the 2nd row, which completes the stitches, from right to left. Illustration 577 shows 2 rows of completed stitches and 1 row in course of working.
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ILLUSTRATION 578 shows the long cross stitch. It is worked like the preceding one, only over 4 threads in height and 2 in width.
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ILLUSTRATION 579 shows a long cross stitch, which is worked like the preceding one, except that 2 threads are missed between 2 stitches, and in the next row the stitches are worked between those in the preceding row. This stitch is not worked in rows backwards and forwards; each stitch is completed before beginning the next.
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ILLUSTRATION 580.--The long slanting cross stitch is worked like No. 578, in rows backwards and forwards; the 1st row is slanting, the 2nd is straight. The places for inserting the needle and for drawing it out are marked on the illustration with a cross and dot.
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ILLUSTRATION 581.--The damask stitch is worked in single rows from left to right, over 4 threads in height and 2 in width. The stitches of one row come between those of the next. The cross and dot shown in illustration are where to insert and draw out the needle.
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ILLUSTRATION 582 shows the rep stitch--a variety of the preceding. The first half of it is worked slantways over 6 threads in height and 2 in width, the second half, like the common cross stitch, from right to left over the 3rd and 4th of the 6 canvas threads; each stitch is completed at once. The illustration shows the last stitch being worked; the first half of the stitch is completed; the dot shows where the needle must be inserted for the second half; it is drawn out where the cross is placed on illustration.
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ILLUSTRATION 583.--The leviathan stitch consists of 1 slanting and 1 straight cross stitch over 4 threads in height and 4 in width. Each stitch is completed immediately. No. 583 shows one half of the stitch completed and the wool as it must be placed for working the first half of the straight cross stitch.
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ILLUSTRATION 584.--The leviathan stitch is worked exactly like the preceding, only the stitches are not worked on the same threads in the different rows, as may be seen from illustration.
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ILLUSTRATION 585.--The double leviathan stitch is a variety of the preceding; it is worked over 6 threads in height and as many in width. Make a common cross stitch over these 6 threads, then a long cross stitch in height and a long cross stitch in width. Illustration 585 shows 2 stitches completed and 1 being worked.
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ILLUSTRATION 586.--Tent stitch. Each stitch is worked over 1 stitch in height and 1 in width, and is worked in rows from left to right.
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ILLUSTRATION 587.--The slanting Gobelin stitch is worked on undivided canvas; each stitch is worked over 3 threads in height and 2 in width, divided from the next stitch only by an interval of 1 thread.
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ILLUSTRATION 588.--The straight Gobelin stitch is worked over 2 threads in height with 1 thread between, so that the stitches appear more raised; they are worked over thin cord or a thick piece of wool.
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ILLUSTRATION 589.--The raised or velvet stitch is worked over small round wooden meshes, and forms small raised loops. Take 2 similar meshes and as many threaded needles as there are colours in the work; make first a slanting stitch, as for the beginning of the common cross stitch, but instead of drawing out the needle straight under the place where it was inserted, draw it out exactly at the same place, so as to form a slanting stitch on the right and on the wrong side; then begin to work over 1 mesh; insert the needle above it and draw it out in a slanting direction underneath. On the wrong side of the work a regular cross stitch is formed. Illustration 589 shows 2 rows of velvet stitch completed and 2 rows being worked; the first of the latter is yet on the mesh, the second being worked so as to show the position of the wool upon the mesh. Observe that the rows of the velvet stitch are worked upwards, and that 2 meshes are necessary, because the lower one must not be drawn out before the next row is completed. The loops may be cut open if preferred.
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ILLUSTRATION 590.--The plaited stitch is worked like the herring-bone stitch. Each stitch is worked over 4 threads in height and 4 in width. Illustration 590 shows one part of the plaited stitch completed, and the place where the needle is to be inserted for the next stitch is marked by a dot. For the next stitch the needle is carried under the 2 threads below the stitches of the preceding row.
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ILLUSTRATION 591.--The plush stitch is also worked upwards. Begin to work a common cross stitch, then insert the needle through the canvas over 2 threads in height and 2 in width, downwards in a slanting direction. Do not draw the wool close up, but leave a loop hanging down about four-fifths of an inch long, and make 1 more common cross stitch to fasten the loop. This stitch can also be worked over flat meshes. Work a common cross stitch at the end of every row. When the work is completed the loops are cut open and clipped, as may be seen from illustration.
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ILLUSTRATIONS 592 to 594.--Three Berlin wool work borders for trimming baskets, &c. No. 592.--The 2 outer rows which edge the border are worked in long straight cross stitch; each stitch is crossed in the centre with a back stitch.
The grounding consists of 2 rows of vandykes placed opposite each other, which are formed of long straight stitches of different lengths. The squares in the centre are formed in the same way, and are completed in the middle with a knot. No. 593.--The ground is worked in cross stitch, the raised patterns in satin stitch; in the middle of each pattern there is a cross stitch. The outer rows are worked in half cross stitch over 2 threads in height and 4 in width in 2 different shades. No. 594.--The petals of the flowers are worked over 4 threads in height and in width, and consisting of 4 slanting stitches.
In the centre the flower is completed by a knot; the ground in cross stitch is completed on either side by a narrow border of scallops, formed of slanting stitches divided in the centre by 1 slanting stitch. It is easy to work these stitches from illustration. The choice of colours depends upon what use the border is intended for and upon personal taste.
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PLATES
INDEX.
ACACIA SPRAY in embroidery, 162.
Antimacassar, crochet, 276.
Antimacassar in tatting, 65.
Antimacassar, knitted, 318 to 320.
Appliqué, pattern for a couvrette in, 213 to 215.
Arm-chair, covered with crochet, 254.
Arm-chair in crochet, patterns for, 255,256.
BABY'S BOOT, knitted, 326.
Bag, crochet silk, over rings, 245.
Banner screen in guipure d'art, 573, 574.
BARS, POINT LACE.
D'Alençon, 463.
Point d'Angleterre, 467.
Point de Venise, edged, 468.
Point de Venise, dotted, 469.
Raleigh, 471, 472.
Sorrento, 461, 462.
Sorrento, dotted, 469.
Venetian, plain, 464, 465, 466.
Basket, small, crochet, 239.
Basket, crochet, 272.
Basket, crochet, 273.
Basket, embroidered in chenille, 134.
Bedford plaited lace (1851), 423.
Bed-quilt, knitted border for, 327.
BERLIN WOOL-WORK INSTRUCTIONS, p. 559. Berlin work, borders in, 592 to 594.
BERLIN STITCHES.
Common cross stitch, 577.
Damask stitch, 581.
Leviathan stitch, 583, 584.
Leviathan double stitch, 585.
Long cross stitch, 578, 579.
Plaited stitch, 590.
Plush stitch, 591.
Raised or velvet stitch, 589.
Rep stitch, 582.
Slanting cross stitch, 580.
Slanting Gobelin stitch, 587.
Straight Gobelin stitch, 588.
Tent stitch, 586.
(Black lace) Buckingham point trolly (1851), 422.
Bodice, knitted, 324, 325.
Boot, baby's, knitted, 326
Borders, crochet, 252, 253
Border, embroidered, 150.
Border for a reading-desk in embroidery, 204.
Border for couvrettes, guipure d'art, 561.
Borders for handkerchief, corner, in guipure d'art, 564, 565.
Borders, guipure d'art, 552, 553, 557.
Border, guipure d'art, 575.
Border in crochet and tatting, 52.
Border in Oriental embroidery, 179.
Border in tatting and crochet, 6.
Border in tatting and crochet, 15.
Border in tatting and crochet, 22.
Border in tatting and lace stitch, 44.
Border in tatting, with beads, 13.
Border in tatting, with crochet edging, 5.
Border, knitted, 321.
Border, tatting, 47.
Borders, two crochet, 274, 275.
Border, with beads, tatted, 13.
Bouquet, embroidered, for travelling-bag, 169.
Braces, embroidered, 202.
Braces, knitted, 338.
Brioche cushion in crochet, 249.
Butterfly, embroidered, for handkerchief corner, 212.
CAP, border for, in tatting, 38.
Cap crown in tatting, 37.
Cap in tatting, 38, 39.
Chenille, basket embroidered in, 134.
Cigar-case, embroidered, 190.
Circle for collars, cuffs, &c., in tatting, 21.
Circle in tatting, 12.
Circle in tatting, 21.
Circle in tatting, 57.
Collar in tatting, 56.
Collar in tatting and darned netting, 28.
Collar, linen, trimmed with tatting, 49.
Collar, linen, trimmed with tatting, 54.
Collar, pine pattern, in tatting, 1.
Collar, tatted, 55.
Collar, trimming for, in tatting, 49.
Collar, trimming for, in tatting, 54.
Comforters, &c., knitting stitch for, 336.
Convolvulus leaf insertion in embroidery, 141.
Corner borders in guipure d'art, 524, 525.
Corner borders in guipure d'art, 542, 543.
Corner borders in guipure d'art, 564, 565.
Corner for handkerchief in point Russe embroidery, 149.
Corner in embroidery, 151.
Corner in embroidery, 152.
Cotton, tatting, page 82.
Couvrette, centre of a tatted, 25.
Couvrette, daisy pattern for a, in crochet, 250.
Couvrette for arm-chair in crochet, 257.
Couvrette in appliqué, embroidery, 147.
Couvrette in crochet, 240 to 243.
Couvrette in tatting, 25.
Covering for a quilted counterpane in embroidery, 138.
Cravats, &c., in embroidery, patterns for, 184.
Cravats, &c., in embroidery, patterns for, 185.
Cravat in tatting, 50.
Cravat end in embroidery, 136.
Cravat end in embroidery, 153.
Cravat end in raised embroidery, 156.
Cravat end in tatting, 60.
Cravat end in tatting, 62.
Cravat end in tatting and darned netting, 64.
Cravat end, oval, in tatting, 51.
Cravat in muslin and tatting, 50.
Cravat, muslin, embroidered, 153.
Crochet, antimacassar in, 276.
Crochet, arm-chair covered with, 254.
Crochet, arm-chair, patterns for, 255, 256.
Crochet bag, silk, over rings, 245.
Crochet basket, small, 239.
Crochet basket, 272.
Crochet basket, 273.
Crochet borders, 252, 253.
Crochet borders, two, 274, 275.
Crochet, brioche cushion, 249.
Crochet, couvrette for arm-chair, 257.
Crochet, couvrette in, 240 to 243.
Crochet, daisy pattern for a couvrette in, 250.
Crochet D'Oyleys in Imitation of Point Lace.
No. 1, 262.
No. 2, 263.
No. 3, 264.
No. 4, 265.
No. 5, 266.
No. 6, 267.
No. 7, 268.
No. 8, 269.
No. 9, 270.
No. 10, 271.
Crochet garter, 285.
Crochet, insertion, 258.
Crochet, insertion, 259.
Crochet, insertion, 260.
Crochet, insertion, 277.
Crochet, insertion, 283.
Crochet, insertion, 284.
CROCHET INSTRUCTIONS.
Crochet hook, page 185.
Foundation chain, double, 217.
Foundation chain, plain, 216.
Foundation chain, purl, 218.
Spots, raised, 232.
Spots, hollow, 233.
Spots, open work, 234.
Crochet, lace, 251.
Crochet, lace, 261.
Crochet, purse in, over rings, 248.
Crochet rosettes, 280, 281.
Crochet sovereign purse, 246.
Crochet, star in, 244.
Crochet, stars in, 247.
CROCHET STITCHES.
Cross stitch, 224.
Cross treble stitch, 229, 230, 231.
Double long treble stitch, 228.
Double stitch, 220, 221.
Long double stitch, 225.
Long treble stitch, 227.
Purl stitch, 236.
Purl stitch, 237.
Purl stitch, 238.
Raised treble stitch, 235.
Raised ribbed stitch, 222.
Raised slanting stitch, 223.
Slip stitch, 219.
Treble stitch, 226.
Crochet trimming for a lady's chemise, 286.
Crochet trimming, with embroidered flowers worked in appliqué and velvet ribbon, 282.
Crochet work, tobacco-pouch in, 278, 279.
Crochet work, work-basket in straw and, 272, 273.
Curtains, knitted pattern for, 339.
Daisy pattern for a crochet couvrette, 250.
Dalecarlian lace, 419.
Diamond in tatting, 20.
Diamond in tatting, 36.
Diamond in tatting, 53.
Diamond in tatting, 59.
Diamond netting, 306.
Diamond tatting for collars, &c., 20.
D'Oyleys, Crochet, in Imitation of Point Lace.
No. 1, 262.
No. 2, 263.
No. 3, 264.
No. 4, 265.
No. 5, 266.
No. 6, 267.
No. 7, 268.
No. 8, 269.
No. 9, 270.
No. 10, 271.
D'Oyley, knitted, 337.
EDGINGS AND PURLED EDGINGS, POINT LACE.
Antwerp, 479.
Point d'Angleterre, 477.
Point de Bruxelles, 474,
Point d'Espagne, 478.
Point de Venise, 476.
Sorrento, 475.
Edging, embroidered, 178.
Embroidered border, 204.
Embroidered border, 150.
Embroidered bouquet for travelling bag, 169.
Embroidered braces, 202.
Embroidered braces, full-sized pattern for, 201.
Embroidered braces, full-sized pattern for, 203.
Embroidered butterfly for handkerchief corner, 212.
Embroidered cigar-case, 190.
Embroidered edging, 178.
Embroidered handkerchief, 197.
Embroidered hanging letter-case, 176.
Embroidered in chenille, basket, 134.
Embroidered key-bag, 182.
Embroidered key-bag, 183.
Embroidered knife-basket, 159.
Embroidered knife-basket, 160.
Embroidered lace insertion, 207.
Embroidered lady's purse, 157.
Embroidered letter-case, pattern for, 177.
Embroidered linen collar, 193.
Embroidered linen collar, 194.
Embroidered needle-book, pattern for, 166.
Embroidered needle-book, pattern for, 167.
Embroidered penwiper, full-sized circle for, 187.
Embroidered slipper, on Java canvas, 208.
Embroidered slipper, point russe stitch for, 209.
Embroidered what-not, in the shape of a hammock, 195, 196.
Embroidery, acacia spray in, 162.
Embroidery and stitching, insertion in, 132.
Embroidery, appliqué, couvrette in, 147.
Embroidery border for a reading-desk, 204.
Embroidery, border in Oriental, 179.
Embroidery, convolvulus leaf insertion in, 141.
Embroidery, corner for handkerchief in point Russe, 149.
Embroidery, corner in, 151.
Embroidery, corner in, 152.
Embroidery, covering for a quilted counterpane in, 138.
Embroidery, cravat end in, 136.
Embroidery, cravat end in, 153.
Embroidery, cravat end in raised, 156.
Embroidery, fuchsia spray in, 161.
Embroidery, glove-box in, 174.
Embroidery, glove-box in, 175.
Embroidery, handkerchief border in, 197.
Embroidery, handkerchief in, 140.
Embroidery, insertion in, 131.
Embroidery, insertion in, 142.
Embroidery, insertion in, 145.
Embroidery, insertion in, 146.
Embroidery, insertion in, 155.
Embroidery, insertion in, 165.
Embroidery, insertion in, 188.
Embroidery, insertion in, 189.
Embroidery, insertion in, 192.
EMBROIDERY INSTRUCTIONS, p. 83.
Bead partly covered, 103.
Blossom in satin stitch, 101, 102.
Bluebell, 113.
Bluebell, inner part, 114.
Bluebell, part of, 116.
Borders, 118, 119.
Ear of corn, 112.
Flower, 115.
Flower in satin stitch, 107.
Flower appliquéd on net, 117,
Heartsease, 110.
Initials, 123 to 130.
Insertions, 120 to 122.
Leaf, 94.
Leaf in raised satin stitch, 90, 91.
Leaf, raised, 92, 93.
Leaf, raised, 95.
Leaf, half of, 99.
Leaf, centre of, 100.
Raised embroidered leaf, 98.
Raised flower, 111.
Raised leaf, 96.
Raised leaf, 97.
Raised satin stitch leaf, 90, 91.
Rose in satin stitch, 108.
Rose, petal for, 109.
Star, 106.
Star in point de reprise, 105.
Star in satin stitch, 104.
STITCH, EMBROIDERY.
Stitch, back, 70.
Stitch, button and eyelet holes, 86, 87.
Stitch, button-hole scallop, 82 to 85.
Stitch, double overcast, 67.
Stitch, knotted, 73, 74, 75.
Stitch, ladder, 80, 81.
Stitch, overcast, 68.
Stitch, point croisé, 71, 72.
Stitch, point de minute, 79.
Stitch, point de plume, 78.
STITCH, EMBROIDERY--_continued_.
Stitch, satin, raised, 76, 77.
Stitch, scallop, 66.