Chapter 21

This square may be used to form part of a couvrette, or a d'oyley, or pincushion. The three other corners of the square are worked exactly like the one seen in illustration; the rosette in the centre is shown in full size. The square is worked in point d'esprit, linen stitch, and point de reprise. Each of the leaves of the foliage is worked in one hole of the netting; they are worked by throwing the cotton three times across the hole, and working darning stitch on them. The stem is worked in overcast on the thread of the netting. The daisy in the centre is worked like the leaves, each leaf taking up one or more holes of the netting.

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524 _and_ 525.--_Corner Borders in Guipure d'Art_.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 2 for couvrettes, No. 8 for pillow-cases, No. 16 for lace edgings.

These corner borders are suitable for pillow-cases or small couvrettes; the stitches worked on these patterns are linen stitch, darning stitch, point de Bruxelles, and wheels. The edge is formed by button-hole stitches. The netting is cut away after these are worked.

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526.--_Strip of Insertion in Guipure d'Art._

Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 8.

This strip of insertion is 8 stitches wide, and is worked in zigzag lines of point de feston, with a border of point d'esprit and point de toile; a four-point star occupies the centre of the triangle left by the zigzag line. This pattern is so easy to work that it hardly needs description, the only part requiring care being the squares of point de feston; these are begun in the centre, and the thread should be drawn rather tightly so as to form a good square.

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527.--_Small Square_.

Materials: Frame; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 4, 6, or 8 for the netting, and No. 16 for the pattern.

Work over a mesh measuring 2-1/10 inch round the foundation of each square, which has seven stitches in length, and as many in breadth. It is embroidered in darning stitch, and point d'esprit, and wheels. The outer edge is worked round in button-hole stitch. Larger squares are worked in the same manner, only a few rows larger in length and breadth. The squares are fastened together with a few stitches, and sewn on the pincushion or any article they are intended to ornament.

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528.--_Insertion in Guipure d'Art_.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 8, or 16 for very fine work.

This strip of insertion is very pretty, and can be used for all kinds of lingeries. The size of the material depends, of course, on the use to be made of the insertion. The guipure pattern is worked in linen stitch and point d'esprit, the raised leaves in darning stitch. The edges are worked round with button-hole stitches.

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529.--_Rosette in Guipure d'Art._

Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 6.

This rosette is worked in point de toile and small wheels. A larger wheel occupies the centre, and is ornamented with a round of overcast.

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530.--_Quarter of a Square in Guipure d'Art_.

Materials: One guipure frame; Mecklenburg thread Nos. 6 and 12; needle No. 7.

This pattern shows, in full size, one quarter of a square in guipure d'art. The outer border is in point d'esprit, then comes a border in linen stitch. There are large stars in the corners; these stars are worked in raised darning stitch only, and fastened on the netting at the points of each brand; in the centre of the star there is a wheel (see No. 515) edged with button-hole stitch. The pattern for the centre, one quarter of which only is seen in the illustration, consists of 4 branches forming small triangles in point de Bruxelles, 4 open-worked stars or wheels worked over 4 holes of the netting, and a four-branched centre of point de feston with a wheel in the middle.

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531 _and_ 532.--_Square Patterns in Guipure d'Art_.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s linen thread No. 2 for the netting, and their Mecklenburg thread for the guipure stitches No. 8.

No. 531. The outer border of this pretty square is worked in point d'esprit, the inner border in point de toile; then follows a round of small wheels or rosettes.

For these, fasten the cotton to one of the knots of the first square stitch of this round, work one loop upon each of the three other knots, so as to form a slanting cross; then work round the centre point of the cross, passing alternately under and over its branches, then twist the cotton over the threads of the foundation until the next square is reached, and begin another wheel.

The centre of No. 531 is composed of wheels and point de reprise; the pattern round the centre is worked in point de feston, differing a little from that given on pages 505 and 506, but the illustration clearly shows the difference.

No. 532 has similar borders to No. 531; the centre is occupied by a star (see page 512) in point de feston; four large wheels surround this; the square stitches between are filled with small wheels and with groups of long loops, fastened together in sheaves. Point d'esprit and point de toile, worked one way only, complete this square.

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533 _to_ 536.--_Four Patterns in Guipure d'Art_.

Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 2 or 16, according to the size of the work.

These four patterns will be found useful for filling up small squares, or for varying the usual groundwork of point d'esprit.

No. 533 is a succession of point de feston stitches, which half fill each square of the netting. This pattern must be worked with great regularity.

No. 534 consists of a kind of double point d'esprit.

No. 535 is a thread twisted and taken _across_ each square, and resembles lace stitches.

No. 536 is a succession of small close wheels, intermingled with point d'esprit. This grounding is very effective.

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537.--_Lace Border for Veils, &c_.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 16; strip of square netting of the required length; oblong frame.

This simple border is easily and quickly worked. The edge is overcast, the ground worked in point d'esprit, the border in point de toile, and the pattern in point de reprise. When completed the netting is cut away from the overcast edge.

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538 _and_ 538_a_.--_Squares in Guipure d'Art_.

Materials: 2 squares of netting of 8 holes; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 10 or 16, according to the fineness required.

These squares are very pretty for cravat ends, cuffs, or handkerchiefs. They are worked on netting with very fine cotton in the usual manner, beginning on two stitches in one corner The different stitches of the guipure darning can be distinctly seen in illustration, and are point de feston, point de reprise, point de toile, and point d'esprit on No. 538, and the same stitches surround a wheel in No. 538_a_.

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539.--_Insertion in Guipure d'Art_.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread Nos. 8 to 16; strip of netting length, required.

This insertion is worked in point de toile, and wheels worked in point de feston. The ground in point d'esprit.

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540 _and_ 541.--_Square in Guipure Point de Venise (Reticella)_

Materials: Coarse or fine linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 4 or 12.

This square is worked in the so-called point de Venise, together with other squares; it is very pretty for covers, toilet cushions, &c. It is worked on coarse or fine linen, according to the use you wish to make of it. Prepare a square piece of linen, by drawing out long and cross threads, so as to form perfect squares. In the pattern No. 540, which is worked on fine linen, 28 threads have been drawn out, both the long and cross way; 8 squares are formed in this way each time that 28 threads have been drawn out; leave 7 or 8 threads of the ground, which form the framework. Then fasten the piece of linen on cardboard, and work close button-hole stitch round the inner edge Then work with darning stitch over the long and cross threads of the ground.

From No. 541, which shows the fourth part of the square 4 times larger than full size, it is easy to see how the framework is darned. When the latter is entirely darned, work the patterns in the different squares in button-hole stitch. The circular and serpentine patterns consist of 3 rows of button-hole stitch; the patterns which imitate whole rosettes and half rosettes are worked in rows of button-hole stitch. For each row the thread must be first drawn from one place to the other, as can be seen in illustration, and fastened on the framework. The knots in the last button-hole stitched row are made by working in each stitch when completed, another stitch, and drawing the cotton again through the first completed knot. It is easy, however, to work all the patterns from No. 541. The dotted lines in the right-hand corner show the direction of the patterns which are wanting there. The square is edged all round with an open-work hem, which can also be worked from No. 541.

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542 _and_ 543.--_Corner Patterns in Guipure d'Art_.

Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 14.

These patterns are very pretty for cushions, handkerchiefs, &c. The netted ground is to be worked from the corner. Cast on 2 stitches, and work in rows backwards and forwards, increasing 1 stitch at the end of every row. The pattern is worked in point d'esprit, linen, and darning stitch, as can be seen in illustration.

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544.--_Flower for Ornamenting Cravats and Caps in Guipure d'Art_.

Materials: Black or coloured silks, or Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 10.

This pattern is worked with middle-sized light-coloured purse silk in guipure d'art on netting. This pattern can also be worked with white thread or black silk in point de reprise.

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545.--_Work Basket with Covering of Darned Netting_.

Materials: Bamboo cane basket; blue satin; cardboard; netting; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co's Mecklenburg thread No. 16.

This elegant basket is made of bamboo cane and blue satin, fastened on cardboard, and covered with guipure d'art. The stand of varnished bamboo is twelve inches long, seven and a half inches wide, and five and a half inches high. The case inside is made of cardboard, covered on both sides with blue satin, and the guipure d'art on the outside only. The stitches used are point de toile, point de reprise, and point d'esprit.

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546 _and_ 547.--_Squares in Guipure d'Art_.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 12 or 20; and point d'esprit according to the fineness required.

Both these square patterns are suitable for ornamenting lingerie, cravats, collars, &c. Repeated at regular intervals on a larger centre, they are likewise suitable for couvrettes, cushions, pillow-cases, &c.; they are worked in darning and linen stitch.

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548.--_Insertion in Guipure d'Art_.

Materials: Strip of netting 6 holes wide, and of the required length; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 8 or 12.

This simple insertion consists of double rows of wheels worked at each side of a strip of point d'esprit, an edge of button-hole stitches being worked between the rows.

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550 _and_ 551.--_Squares for Antimacassar_.

Materials: Square of netting of 12 holes; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co's Mecklenburg thread No. 8.

No. 550 is very quickly worked. The border and groundwork in point d'esprit, the centre star in point de reprise, the pattern in point de toile. Wheels fill in the four holes in the centre of the squares.

No. 551 has a border in point d'esprit, the star is worked in point de feston, the other stitches are point de toile. Wheels in part of star pattern No. 518.

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552 _and_ 553.--_Borders in Guipure d'Art_.

Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 8 or 16.

These corner borders are very suitable for couvrettes, and, worked with fine thread, for pocket-handkerchiefs. The netted ground of the borders is to be worked in the size seen in illustration; for the border No. 553 darn the ground in button-hole stitch, darning stitch, point d'esprit, and point de feston; the pattern No. 552 is worked in linen stitch and point d'esprit; small wheels are also to be worked. Both borders are to be worked round in button-hole stitch; the netted ground is cut away along the outside.

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554 _and_ 555.--_Squares in Guipure d'Art_.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 20; netted squares of 7 and 8 holes.

These two small squares are suitable for ornamenting cravats, lappets for caps and lingeries. They are worked in darning and linen stitch. The centre part of the square, No. 554, is a small wheel covered with raised stitches.

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556.--_Square in Guipure d'Art_.

Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 12.

The centre of this square is worked in point de feston as well as the border; point de toile forms the groundwork of the square in the centre, round which a row of button-hole stitch is worked.

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557.--_Insertion in Guipure d'Art_.

Materials: Strip of netting of 4 holes in width; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 12.

The ground of this simple pattern is worked in point d'esprit, square wheels are worked in the centre of the strip.

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558 _to_ 563.--_Different Strips of Insertion, Rosettes and Lace, in Guipure d'Art_.

Materials: Fine white cotton; Messrs. Waiter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread Nos. 16 and 20.

These strips of insertion, rosettes, and borders are very suitable for ornamenting lingeries, cravats, &c. The ground of insertion, Nos. 558 and 560, is worked with fine white cotton over a fine steel knitting-needle, in slanting netting, and darned with thread in the manner seen in illustrations. The ground of each strip is 11 rounds wide, and worked with button-hole stitch along the edges; the darned patterns can be worked from illustration.

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For the rosette, No. 560, cast on 6 stitches over a fine knitting-needle, and join the stitches into a circle; in the 1st round work 2 stitches in every stitch. In the 2nd--5th rounds work 2 stitches in every increased stitch of the preceding round, and in every other stitch 1 stitch. In the 6th round take a steel knitting-needle double the size of the first, and work over it 1 stitch in every stitch of the preceding round. Then work the 7th round over the fine needle as follows:--

Draw always the second stitch of 2 stitches through the first, and work 1 stitch in the stitch which has been drawn through the first, and then 1 stitch through the other stitch. In the 8th round work always 2 stitches in the stitch between the 2 crossed stitches, 1 stitch in all the other stitches. Lastly, darn the rosette, from illustration, with fine glazed cotton.

For the ground of the rosettes, illustrations Nos. 562 and 563, cast on 6 stitches, join the stitches into a circle, and work then in the 1st round 2 stitches in every stitch; in the following 8 rounds 2 stitches in every increased stitch, in all the other stitches 1 stitch. The last (10th) round is worked without increasing. Then darn the rosettes, from illustrations, with thread in darning stitch, linen stitch, and point d'esprit. The edges of the two rosettes are worked round in button-hole stitch; in every selvedge stitch work 3 button-hole stitches. These two rosettes can be joined together for small couvrettes.

The ground of the border, No. 561, is formed by a strip of straight netting 9 squares wide, cut out in vandykes on one side, and worked round in button-hole stitch, as seen in illustration. This ground is darned, from No. 561, in darning stitch, point d'esprit, linen stitch, and ornamented with bars and wheels (See illustration).

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564 _and_ 565.--_Corner Borders in Guipure d'Art_.

Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 20 for handkerchief, or No. 8 for couvrettes.

These corner borders are suitable for handkerchiefs, couvrettes, &c., or as strips of insertion for cushions or pillow-cases. They are worked with more or less fine cotton, according to the use they are meant for. They are edged round with button-hole stitch on the outside, and finished off with a row of crochet purl. Work 1 double in every button-hole stitch; after every other stitch draw out the loop on the needle about one-tenth of an inch; take out the needle and leave the loop as a purl; take up 1 loop in last double stitch, and cast it off with the next double stitch.

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566.--_Jewel Case, forming Pincushion_.

Materials: Deal box; satin ruche; satin ribbon; quilted satin and silk cord; guipure netting.

This case consists of a square cardboard or deal box, lined with satin, and slightly quilted; it is also covered on the top with satin, and ornamented all round with a satin ruche four-fifths of an inch wide, pleated in the manner seen in illustration. The top of the box is stuffed so as to form a pincushion. It is then covered with guipure d'art No. 567. Ornament all round with silk cords, and at the corners with bows of satin ribbon.

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567.--_Guipure Pattern for Jewel Case_.

Materials: Netting 25 holes square; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 14.

This cover is worked in point d'esprit, point de toile, point de reprise, and point de feston. Thick dots are introduced occasionally.

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568.--_Parasol Cover in Guipure d'Art. (Seepage 580.)_

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 20, and cotton No. 80.

For working this cover, one part of which is shown in our illustration two-thirds of its full size, work first a straight strip of netting for the foundation, which must count as many holes in width as are required for the width of the covering. The size of the holes depends on the size of the knitting-needle or mesh which you use. The pattern is worked with cotton No. 80, over a steel knitting-needle which measures two-fifths of an inch round. Begin the strip in one corner. Cast on 2 stitches, and work in rows backwards and forwards, increasing 1 stitch at the end of every row, till you have 1 stitch more than the stripe is to have holes in width, on our pattern 68 stitches; then work 1 row on the same number of stitches, and then increase alternately 1 stitch at the end of 1 row, and decrease 1 at the end of the next, till the strip is 250 stitches long. The strip is finished off in a straight line at the bottom by working a certain number of rows in which the last stitch remains untouched. At the beginning of the row do not work 1 stitch ever the mesh, but only 1 knot in the stitch of the preceding row, so that the cotton is drawn on tight. When the strip is completed, trace from No. 568 the outlines for the pattern of each of the eight parts of the parasol with double thread, in such a manner that two parts lie next to each other, but reversed, that is, the point of one part must lie next to the wide part of the next part. Then work in each part the pattern seen in illustration, and afterwards each part round with button-hole stitch, working over the double outline. Cut out the different parts, and sew them together on the wrong side with close overcast stitch.

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569.--_Scent Sachet in Guipure d'Art_.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 18; green satin; poudre d'iris; green satin ribbon; green silk cord.

The size of the netting depends on that of the sachet. The netting must be fastened in a frame, and darned with fine thread; the flowers are worked in darning stitch, and the ground in point d'esprit. The cushion is made of green satin, perfumed with poudre d'iris. When the netting has been fastened on, it is edged all round with a green satin ruche, and green silk cord, forming loops at every corner.

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570.--_Square in Guipure d'Art_.

Materials: Netted square of 26 stitches; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 12.

This pattern is worked in point d'esprit, edged with an outline of point de reprise. This outline may be worked in close button-hole stitch. Point de toile is used for the groundwork, upon which point de reprise is worked.

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571 _and_ 572.--_Work Case in Guipure d'Art_.

Materials: Blue satin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 16; blue silk cord.