Part 10

A♠ K♠ 7♠ 6♠ 5♠ 3♠ x-------x | Y | | A B | | Z | x-------x 8♠ 4♠

The dealer should refuse to win the first round of the suit. With no card of re-entry, should he lead the ace and king, the command would be left with the adversaries and the suit would not be made.

A♠ 9♠ 7♠ 5♠ 2♠ x-------x | Y | | A B | | Z | x-------x 8♠ 4♠ 3♠

The dealer must allow the adversaries to win the first and second tricks; otherwise the suit cannot be made.

A♠ 8♠ 6♠ 4♠ 2♠ x-------x | Y | | A B | | Z | x-------x Q♠ J♠ 3♠

The dealer should lead the queen toward the ace, but should the second in hand adversary cover with the king the dealer must pass the trick; otherwise the third round will be blocked by the nine or ten.

A♠ Q♠ 6♠ 5♠ 4♠ x-------x | Y | | A B | | Z | x-------x 3♠ 2♠

The dealer should pass the first trick and not attempt the queen finesse until the second round. One trick, it is true, may be lost, but the play may win four tricks.

One or two leads of a suit may show a distribution of the cards which must give the adversary one trick. When this is the case, be careful to lose that trick while you have still another card of the suit to lead to the opposite hand.

A♠ K♠ Q♠ 7♠ 5♠ 3♠ 2♠ x-------x | Y | NONE | A B | J♠ 10♠ 6♠ 4♠ | Z | x-------x 9♠ 8♠

The dealer finds at the first lead that the second in hand adversary has no card of the suit. The jack is, therefore, three times protected in the opposite hand and the dealer should pass the first trick.

With nine cards of a suit in the combined hands headed by ace and king, all the remaining cards will probably fall on two leads, but when the suit is divided, six and three, with no card of re-entry in the long hand, it is safer to make sure of five tricks by passing the first round.

A♠ K♠ 9♠ 8♠ 6♠ 4♠ x-------x | Y | | A B | | Z | x-------x 7♠ 3♠ 2♠

Even when there is a re-entry card in the hand containing the long suit, if the adversaries must make a trick in the suit it is better play to lose the first trick. The re-entry may be an important card to retain.

When you hold a guarded honour in the suit led originally, or with a once-guarded king in an unopened suit, place the lead so that these honours will be lead up to. This can often be done by “ducking” or passing a trick.

“OVERTAKING AND UNBLOCKING”

The double necessity arises only on rare occasions. When the dummy contains no re-entry and the adversary opens a suit in which dummy has length, arrange the play of your own cards so as not to block the dummy’s suit.

A♠ 9♠ 6♠ 4♠ 2♠ x-------x | Y | K♠ J♠ 7♠ [5♠] | A B | 3♠ | Z | x-------x Q♠ 10♠ 8♠

Should the first trick be won with the eight, the dealer cannot overtake the ten without loss. The ten should, therefore, be played and the lead continued with the queen. If the adversary covers, the trick must be passed. The eight should then be led through the jack.

“OVERTAKING AND DUCKING”

Occasionally the initial opening will prove to be the dummy’s long suit. To make this suit without a card of re-entry in dummy it may be necessary for the dealer not only to overtake dummy’s trick in order to lead the suit through the original leader’s hand, but also to allow the adversary to win the second trick, if an attempt is made to force dummy’s high card.

A♠ 10♠ 9♠ 8♠ 7♠ x-------x | Y | [5♠] | A B | 4♠ | Z | x-------x K♠ 3♠ 2♠

A♠ 10♠ 9♠ 8♠ 7♠ x-------x | Y | [4♠] | A B | 3♠ | Z | x-------x Q♠ 5♠ 2♠

The dealer should in both cases overtake dummy’s trick in order to continue the lead from the weaker hand. The original leader will probably attempt, by playing a high card, to force the ace; in which case the dealer must pass the second trick. The dummy will then hold a tenace over the remaining honour, and the dealer can make four tricks in the suit.

THE DEFENCE AGAINST OVERTAKING AND “DUCKING”

When you open a suit and find that it is dummy’s strength do not attempt to win the second trick if the dealer leads through your hand, that is, unless you can mark the dealer with no other card of the suit to lead; by taking the third round instead, you will often save a trick or two.

A♠ 9♠ 7♠ 6♠ 5♠ 4♠ x-------x | Y | K♠ 10♠ 8♠ 2♠ | A B | NONE | Z | x-------x Q♠ J♠ 3♠

In this case the dealer takes the first trick with the jack and leads the queen. No attempt should be made to cover the card. In this way the dealer is forced to win the third round and dummy’s suit is blocked.

CARD STRATEGY

When players have largely grasped the fundamentals of bridge they are frequently filled with complaisance and self-satisfaction that is gratifyingly reassuring to them, but that does not tend to improve their game.

Each hand played, wherein they feel that they have committed no blunders, brings a sense of contentment; but, unfortunately, they overlook the tricks which they may have lost by the lack of a little card strategy.

These are the tricks, which won, decide rubbers. There is always trouble for the player who is looking only for “what he deserves,” and complacently assists the strategy of his opponents by not meeting it with an equal display of skill in attack, or shrewdness in defense.

Good players are frequently likely to be deceived by holding up small cards, though as a matter of fact novices never appear to be fooled by such tactics; play a high card like a King or a Queen, however, and the poor player is decidedly apt to be frightened away from the play of his own suit.

To whomsoever it falls to play the dummy hand there is abundant opportunity to baffle, mislead and confuse the opponents, and still be playing strictly within the etiquette and the admitted possibilities of bridge. In fact it is only just to one’s partner to exercise one’s best endeavor and employ one’s brightest wits to bring about a brilliant finish.

A little of the combative disposition is a valuable adjunct to good bridge play. Combine that with clever strategy and a most commendable desire to send your adversaries on innumerable wild-goose chases, and there will be no further playing merely for “what the hand deserves.”

Pitfalls in the form of false leads, false carding and clever underplay should be dug for your adversaries at every opportunity. Whenever they can do the same thing, the adversaries will not scruple to place them for you.

There are hands in bridge which may be said to play themselves. One holding all the winning cards could scarcely be expected to lose. That, however, is purely primary. As the player himself recognizes, it is something that could scarcely have been avoided. On the other hand, when some well-planned ruse has found the opposition with no sentries posted, and their camp is thrown into confusion by the clever capture of a trick or two which they never had dreamed it possible to lose, you may feel the elation that is a part of bridge when the game is played to the full measure of its theory.

Frequently a hand is picked up at the bridge table which on its face may be read as hopeless, unless, by some means, the adversaries can be induced to blunder. Never exercise charity in a case of that kind. Make it a point to tempt them not only to blunder once, but again and yet again. It is surely far more strategic for a weak hand to take a strong hand prisoner than it is for the strong hand to capture the weak hand.

Subjoined are a few “ifs” that are well to be remembered, for all too frequently the situation arises where one of them may become most effective if you have retained its significance in your memory.

If you find that in some suit a certain number of tricks will go to your adversaries, and that to lead from your best suit is disadvantageous, throw the lead and see what will happen.

If you wish to make four tricks in a suit with but three in sight, give the adversaries a chance to discard a card or two before you show your strength.

If you are anxious to know which of your adversaries holds the Queen of the suit in which you hold the Ace, King, Jack, force a discard and see how kind they will be to you. If no discard can be forced, then give the adversaries the lead and let the suit come up to you.

If you are reasonably certain of winning all the tricks but one, lead out your remaining trumps. You cannot lose and, if your adversaries are uncertain about their discard, the extra trick may be gained.

If you hold the Queen and two small cards of a suit, with small cards of the same suit in dummy and the adversary opens with the King, keep your lowest card. The leader may be tempted to believe that his partner is echoing, and he will establish your Queen by leading the Ace. Do not attempt this play however if you hold length in the suit.

If the King is led and you have length as well as strength in the suit, play your highest card on the King, for if the adversary continues with the Ace, the younger hand will probably ruff the third round and you should therefore endeavor to frighten your opponents from the suit.

If a suit is led and the card played by the younger hand is not higher than the ten, do not win the first trick with the Ace holding Ace, King, Queen. The elder hand cannot have King, Queen, Jack, and taking the first trick with the Ace would clearly show the situation.

If you hold a singleton King lead the suit from dummy at the first opportunity, being careful to select as a card to lead a ten or a nine. This gives the impression that you intend to finesse. You may tempt the adversary, with the Ace second in hand, to pass the trick, whereas were a small card led he would probably make no such mistake.

If you hold a small card as a singleton with King and Jack, or King and others in dummy, do not wait until your adversary can count your hand, but lead your singleton early in the hand and do not finesse.

If you want high cards to fall, lead high cards. It is astounding how difficult one finds it not to cover an honor led. With this in mind, with a singleton Ace in your hand, and a sequence in dummy from the Queen to the nine, the adversaries will make no mistake if a low card is led, while the Queen is a temptress that few can resist.

If you hold ten cards of suit in your hand and that of the dummy with the Ace and King both against you, no doubt you will lose two tricks in the suit; but when you do lead it lead your highest card. You may tempt your second hand adversary to cover and the other honor may fall.

If you have nine or more cards in your hand and that of the dummy headed by Ace and King, it is usually unwise to finesse; but it is always good play to lead the Jack towards the high card in the opposite hand as it may tempt your adversary to cover.

If the adversary, after seeing dummy, lead through a King Jack suit he probably has no high cards in the suit. To play the King can do but little harm, and, if he has the Ace, you may shut it out.

If you have Queen, ten and one small in dummy, and Ace, nine, small in your own hand, lead the small card. If the King is not put up second in hand, play the ten; if the Jack wins the trick the King is probably in the same player’s hand, and you must get the lead in dummy to come through this hand. Without the ten in either hand pass the first trick and make no effort to win with your Queen. This may be your only hope to get two tricks in the suit.

If you have the Ace, King, small in your hand and Jack and two small in dummy, the discard may show that your left hand adversary holds the Queen protected. To steal a trick here, you must play the Ace and underplay with the hope that this player will mark the King in his partner’s hand and not play high.

If at “No Trump” a high card is led against you originally, and you have length in that suit, hold up the lowest card to make the adversary think his partner is unblocking.

If at a loss what suit to play for at “No-Trump” choose the one that is shown in dummy, so that the adversaries may not discover the weakness or strength of your own hand.

If at “No-Trump” you are playing a poor hand with little or no hope of winning, or even perhaps of saving the game, try leading the suit that is all against you. Often the adversaries will hold imaginary tenace over your cards and come “banging up” to your strong suit. The collision will be more disastrous to them than you.

If you must lose the lead at “No-Trump,” conceal the strength in your own hand and do not jump around and show strength in three suits, for then when you do lose the lead the adversaries cannot make a mistake as to their own strong suit.

If your adversary’s lead at “No-Trump” is a Jack and you have Ace, King, Queen in your hand, take the first trick with the Queen. Never win with the King. Many players lead the Jack from King, Jack, ten or Ace, Jack, ten.

If a Queen is led at “No-Trump” and you hold both the Ace and King, do not win the first trick with the Ace. The Queen lead sometimes indicates the Ace and Jack, and you may mislead an adversary by playing the King, whereas the Ace would clearly show the situation.

If you are playing “No-Trump” do not blank the Ace in dummy unless you want this suit led to you. Keeping a small card with the Ace may lead the adversaries to believe that you have a high card in your own hand and they may hesitate to lead the suit.

Another point that it is well to emphasize is in regard to being forced to lead disadvantageously from a suit. Be very careful in a case of that kind not to break a possible tenace by leading a high card. For instance with Ace, ten and two small in your hand and Jack and two small in dummy, you are forced to lead the suit from your own hand. Play the small card. Often the adversary makes the mistake of playing a high card second in hand, giving you, perhaps, a tenace over your right hand opponent.

Too much haste in showing ability to ruff by your weak hand frequently brings disaster. In fact a trump lead from you will discourage the trump attack by the adversaries, and they are only too likely to give you the ruff without defining your purpose.

Inference frequently will come to you from the cards held in the combined hands as to what suit will probably be led by the adversaries, but do not expose your weakness by discarding from this suit.

Last, but one of the most important facts of all, decide which of your cards you mean to play before fingering them. Indecision may tell your adversaries exactly what they are most eager to know.

Bear in mind that these suggestions are advanced to try to impress all players with the fact that there may be much more in the hand than it seems to deserve, and that “much more” is the real test of skillful bridge. It is a far greater source of enjoyment than lackadaisically wading through deal after deal, stirring only the surface of the shallow water and not venturing into those more fascinating depths where the secrets of bridge await those who will try for them.

LOST TRICKS

One development of bridge, seldom touched upon, has to do entirely with what may be designated the “lost tricks.”

Hands that play themselves are, to an extent, colorless and featureless accessories of the game; but the “lost tricks” are the “might have beens” of bridge that rankle in the memory long after the rubber is finished.

They are usually found in hands that require a thorough understanding of the score, good judgment and keen perception, and are lost many times because of a lack of understanding between partners.

There can be nothing more trying to one’s finest nervous sense than to play with a partner in whom one has little confidence, who makes each situation as difficult as possible, gives no correct information as to his own hand by the play of the cards, nor seeks to take advantage of the information correctly given by his partner.

There is one essential to bridge which must never be overlooked, nor can its importance be too strongly impressed upon all players, and that is, that to play the game well involves the closest kind of a business partnership in which implicit confidence must exist. Evil effects attendant upon deceit cannot be too highly overestimated, nor can such play be too severely condemned, if your aim is to attain, as nearly as possible, the standard of perfection.

All players must understand that rules are but the mere convention of the game, holding it to certain conformity, that, it is evident, is necessary for its preservation and the perfect enjoyment of its enthusiastic devotees. Certain rules, that govern the technicalities, are absolute, as they are in any game of cards, but rules in general are not the masters of bridge; rather should they be considered as second to circumstance and the fall of the cards. Brilliant plays are made in contravention to rules, yet we would not attempt to deduce from that fact the theory that rules are not essential to the game.

There are those disaffected individuals who rail at everything. To them rules are bogey men; conventions are pitfalls. They scoff at partners who play as such, and argue weakly for disconcerted play in which one puts down a card, his partner another, and for all the information that either conveys to the other a pinch of snuff would be generous recompense. You might as well take a chance on a card of any denomination or of any suit, as to try to adhere to a union of forces with such a school of philosophy to guide you.

Do not be influenced by theories somewhat wildly and illogically advanced by players thus minded. Time and experience will assuredly teach you that heresies fail in bridge, as they fail in other subjects where cool, philosophical reasoning will lead to a sane and intelligent understanding.

Never forget that the dealer is in the possession of the strength of twenty-six cards all the time. If you, with half that force, play at random, and your partner, with no more numerical strength than you possess, is also playing a fourth of the game on his individual account, with no particular interest in what is being done with the other three-fourths of the fifty-two cards, it is surely not common sense to imagine that you and your partner are likely to be superlatively blessed with success.

United play in bridge is absolutely essential to success. This has been demonstrated from the inception of the game, and those who are most mindful of this fact are those who see fewer ghosts of “lost tricks” stalking dejectedly about as they recall the hands of the past.

Occasions do arise however when you may deceive the dealer and not your partner. If you wish the dealer to finesse, it will often pay to play a high card second in hand, holding a small one. For instance, with King, Jack, nine, four and three in dummy, the dealer leads the Ace and then a small card. By playing the ten from the ten, five, deuce on the second round of the suit you may lead the dealer to believe that you hold the Queen or no other card in the suit, and this may tempt him to finesse.

When Ace and Queen are in dummy over your once guarded King, you will probably be led through and your King be captured. It will pay you at times, especially if the card next to the King is a nine or ten, to lead the suit in the hope that the dealer will play the Ace second in hand and that he will infer from your lead that the King is in your partner’s hand.

Should you and your partner hold all the remaining cards in a suit, do not hesitate to play or discard a card of the suit so as to mislead the dealer and make it difficult for him to count your own and your partner’s hand.

To enumerate the many situations wherein tricks are lost and where partners go astray would need a keen observer and a pencil and pad at almost every rubber that is played.

It is usually accepted that a short suit is led for the purpose of establishing a ruff. Very good. Yet players are often met who complain about being forced after showing a desire to ruff. Then avoid giving the invitation. Your partner can only read it as you played to him and followed out your own suggestion as he felt in duty bound to do.

It is not invariably necessary that you open a short suit and play for a ruff. It does seem to be a common impulse. There appears to exist a desire on the part of most who play bridge to do something with trumps, and players are always eager to begin their employment, hoping to see Aces and Kings go by the board. Your short suit lead may establish that suit for your opponent, and bring disaster through an effort to make a small trump trick; while, on the other hand, the lead of your long suit may force and so weaken the dealer’s trump hand as to make it impossible for him to take out the trumps against him.

Tricks are lost by players not showing the correct numerical strength of their long suit. A player who leads the deuce from a six card suit assuredly would not have done so had he confidence in the ability of his partner to read or count his hand.

Frequently the under card of a sequence is led, or the highest card of a sequence is played second or third in hand, and repeatedly that has cost a trick or two because it conveyed misinformation.

One who continually leads the top of long, weak suits against a declared trump, gives misinformation and often leads his partner to believe that he is opening a short suit, and frequently a trick or two is lost by the dealer obtaining discards.

The player who continually refuses to part with the best trump should bear in mind that ruffing with the commanding trump rarely loses a trick, and often gains one.

Remember that the partner who doubles usually has trump strength, and so do not strew his pathway with obstructions by forcing him when it is most fatal to his chances.

There is one type of partner who is particularly trying. He is that persistent individual who, having acquired the notion of establishing his long suit at “No-Trump” keeps at it with a bland faith that would be amusing were it not so vexing. With little or no chance of ever getting in, he sacrifices the only hope of saving the game by refusing to switch off and see what his partner has got.

Think, too, how your partner must feel when marked with a card of your established suit, and in the lead, he witnesses a discard on your part of one of your good suit, and is met with the feeble apology that you had a “King or Queen to protect.”

It is a maxim in bridge that the weaker hand should always consider itself subordinate to the stronger, ready to sacrifice the high card holding so that it will be a gain to the partner in the end.

How selfishly and at what cost partners will decline to unblock because it appears to them to mean the sacrifice of too high a card. Too long they cling to their Queens and their Kings only to see the great army of “lost tricks” obtain fresh recruits because they would not, or could not, read what their partners were vainly trying to publish before them.