Across Iceland

CHAPTER XIX

Chapter 2011,762 wordsPublic domain

THE EASTERN FJORDS

The _Vesta_ was late in arrival, and as the taking in of cargo occupied several hours, we did not get away from Husavik till the afternoon; we then headed straight for the Arctic Circle, passing the island of Lundey on the way out of Skjalfandi. When we entered within the Arctic Circle in the evening, the atmospheric conditions and the temperature were in keeping with our position on the earth's surface, for it was cold and bleak, and the night promised to be a dirty one; but the weather during the night was not so bad after all, and when I awoke in the morning it was to find the sunshine streaming into my cabin through the open port.

At Vopnafjord we remained from early morning till late at night. We climbed the hills at the back of the town and made our way over towards Nypsfjord. From an elevated spot we obtained a view looking into that fjord. It was not a scene of striking beauty, but I was interested to see that the entrance to the inner fjord was narrowed considerably by a spit that extended well into it, perhaps two-thirds across. This had been formed, as usual, by the sea beating in and banking up the detritus brought down by the river, the Vestradalsá. Up there on the rises I succeeded in stalking some sheep and in photographing them. I had tried several times before, but had always failed. Nearly all the sheep in Iceland are horned, while most of the cattle are without horns. There were several things of interest in Vopnafjord that I photographed--the interior of a cod-fish store being one of them; another was the home of "Socrates," a notification to that effect being prominent on the front of the house. There were several stores on a point near the middle of the town, and in front of them there were about a dozen fish-drying grids lying on the slope of the beach. Here at Vopnafjord we found the people to be most curious regarding us and our movements. It was Sunday, and having nothing to do, they displayed to the fullest extent the Icelander's worst characteristic, that of staring hard and persistently.

In the afternoon while cargo was being taken in, a little mild excitement was caused by the capsizing of nine bales of wool into the water, and by their subsequent rescue from drifting out to sea by a boat that went in pursuit.

Before departing from Vopnafjord we had an invasion of Icelanders. They came on board, boatloads at a time; the smoking-room was soon full of them, and there were crowds on deck. I was writing in a recess just above the companion-way to the saloon; small crowds descended by it to the regions below and did not reappear--goodness knows where they managed to stow themselves. A fellow-passenger came up from a visit to his cabin and informed me that he had stumbled over two of the Icelanders, who had taken possession of his cabin. Helvit!--to use the mild Icelandic swear-word--what about mine? I went down to see what was going on in _my_ cabin, and returned on deck breathing more freely (in two ways!), for I found that my cabin companion had early taken possession and had so far kept out all invaders, in spite of repeated attacks upon his stronghold. The atmosphere below was becoming quite oppressive, and one could almost have cut out a chunk of it!--hence, as I have stated, I breathed more freely on deck. But it occurred to me that if I took possession of my own bunk, I could help my companion in resisting future attacks of the enemy; so I went down again.

"There's a cry and a shout, and a deuce of a rout" going on generally, for we had arrived at Seythisfjord, and the invading horde was preparing to leave the vessel--it had come to take part in the ceremony of unveiling a monument that was to be performed that day, and to enjoy the subsequent festivities and gaieties. The trampling of feet above informed me that the natives were congregating round the companion-ladder. I shoved my head through the port-hole, and there, but a few yards off, were two or three boats. One was just pulling away very fully laden, another was loading up with passengers, and a third awaiting its turn to take on its human cargo. I went to my tub, and so, for a few minutes, escaped from the noise.

During breakfast I listened to the tales of woe as related by my fellow-passengers. One had had four of the natives camped in his cabin. In the morning they severally made use of his sponge and soap in performing their ablutions, while his tooth-brush only just escaped service. Whatever of his effects were lying loose about his cabin were subjected to inspection and examination: a bottle of "Elliman's" was uncorked and smelt, and the Icelanders seemed inclined to taste, but in their discretion refrained; had they but tested its virtues, they would no doubt have found it a most excellent pick-me-up. After performing his own toilet he went on deck, but on returning to his cabin a few minutes later, found two women in possession, and busy at his wash-basin. My fellow-passenger was a man who did not object to cleanliness in a general way, but for the native Icelander, both sexes, to take possession of his cabin and make use of his toilet things, was too much for his nerves. If he did not take a leaf out of the Icelanders' book and make use of their swear-word, Helvit! it was only because he was a clergyman; but I have no doubt that he thought that and much more of a similar kind!

Another passenger reported that he had lost one of his native companions in a very extraordinary way. I must state that some of the Icelanders have the disgusting habit of spitting in all sorts of places, and they are not, as a rule, particular where--to them the whole world is a spittoon! This passenger stated that he had found a big Icelander in his cabin the night before, who remarked that he was going to sleep there, and immediately afterwards made some noisy throaty sounds, inquiring where he could spit. On being informed that it was not customary for anybody to spit anywhere in a cabin, and that there was no place where _he_ could do so, he looked surprised and expressed himself to that effect. Much to this passenger's relief, the Icelander then took himself off from the cabin, and was seen there no more. No doubt the native had found some spot where he was able to indulge his habit to his heart's content.

I went ashore after breakfast, and landed just in time to see a procession of Icelanders and others. The occasion was the unveiling of a memorial stone that had been erected by the inhabitants of Seythisfjord and the surrounding country to the memory of a Norwegian, one Otto Andreas Wathue, who died in 1898. This man had been instrumental in making Seythisfjord a place of considerable importance, and its prosperity was due entirely to him.

The ceremony had drawn to Seythisfjord all the notabilities of the neighbourhood, as well as others from the near fjords, and a few from such distant places as Akureyri; it had also drawn thither two Danish men-of-war, and there were in port three vessels belonging to the United Steamship Company: the _Ceres_, the _Vesta_, and another. Some of the chief of the officers from the war-ships attended in their official capacity, while others from the Company's three vessels also attended the ceremony; several joined in the procession, which started from the veiled monument at the head of the fjord near the heart of the town. The Norwegian, Wathue, had lived on the south side of the fjord in a large house about a mile from the monument, and there the widow still lived. The procession made its way along the road by the side of the fjord, and then passed the house, where everybody saluted the widow, who, with her relatives and a few friends, was a spectator from an elevated grass plat. I was standing just beside the house taking snap-shots. My picture shows the head of the procession: some of the leading figures may be seen in the act of saluting the party assembled on the grass in front of the house. The procession halted a short distance beyond, and then returned to the starting-point at the monument, round which the members of it congregated. The ceremony of unveiling was performed after some speechifying had been got through and several poems, composed by Icelandic poets for the occasion, had been recited or sung. Those assembled then adjourned to the fête ground on the other side of the river, where dancing and running and other athletic sports were carried on during the rest of the day, and where fireworks were displayed in the evening. I took several photographs on the outskirts of the crowd round the monument while the ceremony of unveiling was going on; in them are two young women attired in the national costume. One is dressed in white and the other in a dark dress, but both have on the peculiar national state headdress.

We called at Northfjord in the early morning, and after less than an hour there, set sail for Eskefjord, arriving there just before breakfast-time. Though we remained for several hours, I did not get ashore, for there was so much uncertainty about the time of departure that we might have started at any moment; there was also the usual difficulty of getting a boat.

Faskruthsfjord is a very picturesque place; bold and peculiarly shaped mountains are all around. A liparite and tuff mountain on the southern side is noticeable chiefly for the inclined strata that lie upon its southern slopes. Behind the town a huge pyramid (a fine example of the result of denudation) towers high above. Faskruthsfjord is the chief resort of the French fishermen who carry on their avocation on the coast of Iceland, and though there are a few Icelanders in the settlement, yet the greater number are French.

During the latter part of the voyage we had a passenger, an Englishwoman, lying dangerously ill. The doctor from ashore, an Icelander, came on board here to see her, as other doctors had at other ports of call; but he did not go away decently as the others had--no, he remained on board drinking and smoking, and talking at the top of his voice, with a number of men from shore, the carousal being carried on just outside the cabin-door of his patient! A specimen of the customs of the country as observed by at least _one_ Icelander!

Our last port of call in Iceland was in Berufjord, where we arrived at about six in the morning. As it was rainy and misty, I could not well judge of the scenery. It looked an interesting place, and there were several sharp conical peaks showing dimly through the thick atmosphere. We put to sea about an hour later, in weather that promised to be blowy, and the promise was fulfilled, for we were soon in a fairly heavy sea, which increased as the day wore on; it continued bad until we approached the Faroes next day, when it cleared up, and we had bright, fine weather while amongst those islands.

We obtained excellent views of the various headlands at the north end of the Faroes; it was noticeable that all had perpendicular precipices facing the north, where the sea is continually at work eroding their bases. We passed through Kalsofjord, the channel between the island of Kalso on the west and those of Kuno and Bordo on the east. The islands have many corries, soft dykes, and mountains of pyramidal shape. There are several villages most picturesquely situated in the valleys and corries, but as we steamed along in mid channel we were not near enough for the camera to be of service.

We reached Thorshavn in the early afternoon, so I went ashore for an hour to have another look at the picturesque town and at the Faroese. In the evening we set sail for Leith.

APPENDIX I

NOTES ON PLANTS COLLECTED IN THE FAROES AND ICELAND

BY A. W. HILL, M.A.

The decumbent character of the vegetation and the practical absence of trees form the most striking features of the flora in both the Faroes and Iceland. In the Faroes the steep and rocky hillsides are very exposed and wind swept, and the vegetation is in consequence characteristically dwarfed, and most plants raise themselves but little above the general level of the grass.

The dwarfed habit was well shown by some plants, such as _Orchis maculata_, which was very common on the slopes, and was only a few inches high. The inflorescences did not, as a rule, bear more than five to ten flowers, which, however, were large and pale in colour. The ovaries in many cases were not twisted, so that the labellum was consequently uppermost.

Another example of the effect of the conditions on the vegetation was afforded by the dandelion _Taraxacum deus leonis_, which exhibited the prostrate habit exceedingly well, for in order to protect the flowers from the wind, the flower scapes were bent over and laid parallel to the surface of the ground and the inflorescence was exposed to the light by a right-angled bend of the scape just below the head of the flowers. The inflorescence was by this means protected from the wind by being kept just below the general level of the vegetation.

_Cardamine pratensis_ was also influenced in a similar way on the lower slopes, but at higher altitudes plants were found bearing single radical flowers on short stalks instead of the usual raceme.

We proceeded to Akureyri in the north of Iceland by way of the east coast, and it was interesting to notice the difference in the condition of the vegetation on the northern and eastern shores of the island. On the east coast, at Seythis-and Vopnafjords, the plants were stunted and for the most part only in bud; but in the north, at Husavik and Akureyri, similar plants were much earlier, and were not only in full flower, but were also much less stunted, and showed a more robust growth than those found on the eastern side. For example, _Plantanthera hyperborea_, which was in tight bud on the east coast, and also _Thymus_ and other plants, were in full flower at Husavik.

_Thalictrum alpinum_, which grows abundantly all over the hillsides, was found to be attacked by the æcidial stage of one of the rust fungi, _Puccinia septentrionalis_;[1] and at Seythisfjord, where it was especially noticed, it was found that only the topmost leaflets were affected, that is to say, only those leaflets which protruded above the general level of the vegetation, and which were in consequence infected by wind-blown spores. At Seythisfjord the leaflets were only slightly attacked, the fungus being in a young state; but at Husavik it was much more advanced, and the hypertrophied purple tissues were very conspicuous. The effect often extended some way down the petioles.

The case of the fungus is a further example of the greater forwardness of the plants in the north.

There can be no doubt that the characteristics of the east coast vegetation are due to the prevalence of cold winds and the occurrence of cold currents.

Whilst crossing the island several interesting features of the vegetation were noticed. Between Akureyri and our first camp (Thverá) several "forests" were passed through, consisting of _Betula nana_, _Vaccinium uliginosum_, and Willows, _Salix lanata_ and _S. glauca_ rising to a height of from nine to eighteen inches, with an undergrowth of other small plants.

The hillsides all round were covered by _Dryas octopetala_, which was by far the commonest plant in the northern half of the island, and it was abundant also on the east coast.

Travelling along the Oxnadal and then turning off towards Silfrastathir, _Dryas_ at first was the most conspicuous feature of the vegetation covering the rocky moraines and talus slopes; but about three miles from the head of the valley the _Dryas_ was replaced by _Cerastium alpinum_ and _Potentilla maculata_, which then in their turn became the dominant plants for a considerable distance. As we traversed the island we kept passing through well-marked zones of different plants, whose limits seemed largely to be determined by the character of the soil.

After crossing the "col" some very rough screes were passed, on which the Iceland poppy, _P. nudicaule_, was growing abundantly. The screes were formed of rough angular blocks with very little soil between them, and the poppy was only growing in the most barren spots; where moraines occurred the poppy did not grow. It was also found on the stony ground by the river at Silfrastathir.

The hillsides were covered in many places by large tracts of _Equisetum_ (_E. arvense_ and _E. pratense_). The various species of the Equisetaceæ seem to be among some of the commonest plants of the island. The swampy regions by the rivers are covered with _Equisetum_ and _Scirpus cæspitosus_; and they are very abundant on the mountains.

From the river until we reached Gilhagi, the flora showed no features of any particular note; but a meadow there with large plants of _Saxifraga cernua_ in full flower was a very beautiful sight.

On ascending from Gilhagi a change in the flora was gradually seen. After about 2000 feet _Pedicularis flammea_ appeared and became common; on the lower slopes the leaves were green and the plants tall, but at greater elevations the plants became short and stunted, with deep red leaves. The high ground was very much broken up, being of a deep hummocky character and covered by a dwarfed growth of Willows, _Empetrum_, Mosses, etc.

Passing over ground from which the snow had just melted, the willows were found to be either still quite bare or just coming out into leaf, but everywhere in such barren places cones of _Equisetum_ were seen sticking up on pale brown stalks some six inches above the soil; the sterile green shoots do not grow up until some time after the appearance of the cones.

All around Athalmansvatn the ground was very hummocky, the mounds being from a foot to eighteen inches high, with narrow depressions or ruts between. The elevation of this region was about 2500 feet, and as the snow had only recently melted, everything was in consequence backward, _Thalictrum_ and willows, etc., not yet being in flower.

Leaving Athalmansvatn a large tract of hummocky ground was crossed, covered chiefly by _Cassiope hypnoides_, _Empetrum_, Willows, _Salix lanata_ and _S. herbacea_, Grey Lichens, such as _Cladonia_, and Mosses. After this our route lay across a piece of the northern desert land or _Sandr_, which is a barren, sandy, and stony expanse. The soil was a light brownish loam, and was easily blown about by the wind, and scattered all over it were large angular or rounded blocks of stone. _Arabis petræa_ was the only plant occurring in any quantity over this region, and it formed a very conspicuous feature in the landscape, growing in rosettes closely adpressed to the soil with the racemes of flowers growing out horizontally.

As we travelled on in a southerly direction, _Silene acaulis_ appeared and then a little thrift, _Armeria sibirica_, and the _Arabis_ became less frequent. Here the soil was more sandy, and the strong wind blew clouds of dust. Still farther south, _Armeria_ reigned supreme over the desert; but occasional patches containing _Silene acaulis_, _Potentilla_, _Cerastium alpinum_, and _Silene maritima_ occurred. Where the soil became more loamy, _Arabis petræa_ again came in. At the edge of the desert the willows were seen encroaching on the sand, and soon a willow and birch (_Betula nana_) scrub was passed through, which in its turn gave place to moister land with _Empetrum_, _Pedicularis flammea_, etc.

Near Blandá, _Salir phyllicifolia_ was noticed for the first time. A good deal of hummocky ground was also passed over, and its characteristic and invariable features were noticed (_v_. later).

After passing over very rough morainic ground with snow still lying in patches and quite devoid of vegetation, we reached Hveravellir, a perfect oasis in the desert. The hot springs and fumaroles occur along a long line of fissure, and warm up the soil of a considerable tract of country in their neighbourhood. The effect on the vegetation is most striking, for a strip of verdant meadow-land occurs in the middle of bare country, covered in many places with snow at the end of June. All the flowers occurring there were in a very forward state, and a large number of different plants were obtained; some spots were yellow with buttercups, and the ground was carpeted with thyme in full bloom.

_Botrychium lunaria_ occurred in quantity, and a very small variety of _Ophioglossum vulgatum_, _O. vulgatum_, var. _polyphyllum_, was found in a warm place. _Selaginella spinosa_ was also abundant.

On the edges of this warm tract barren land occurred and in many places snow, so that there was a very sharp contrast between the warm and cold earth; and on the latter the willows were only just coming into leaf. This tract of country occurs at the edge of the great lava flow from Strytur.

Towards Strytur the lava was in places covered by "hummocky ground," which showed the usual features noticed elsewhere.

The characteristic plants seem invariably to be:--

*_Carex vulgaris_ (_rigida_), a creeping variety. *_Salix lanata._ *_Salix herbacea._ *_Cassiope hypnoides._ *_Empetrum nigrum_ (very abundant). *_Vaccinium uliginosum._ _Loiseleuria procumbens._ _Armeria sibirica._ _Silene acaulis_ (not very frequent). _Bartsia alpina._ _Pedicularis flammea._ *Two or three Lichens, species of _Cladonia_, and a Moss, _Rhacomitrium lanuginosum_.

Those marked with an asterisk appear to be invariably present, the others are not so constant, but some are usually found.

Shortly after leaving Hveravellir the watershed of the island was crossed, and a marked difference in the flora was noticed in the valley, Thjofadal, on the southern side of the ridge, owing no doubt to the much greater rainfall which occurs on this, the south-western, side of the island.

Among plants noticed in this region, which had not been met with before, were:--

_Draba alpina._ _Cardamine bellidifolia_, and _Ranunculus pygmæus_ (which grew upright in the valley, but was prostrate and creeping on the surrounding hillsides).

Fungoid diseases were very prevalent in the valley, and _Saxifraga cæspilosa_, which was extremely dwarfed on the high ridges, was in many places badly attacked by a rust fungus.

_Saxifraga cernua_ was also affected by the conditions in this region, for in other localities north of the watershed all the plants were found with the usual terminal flower, but here no terminal flower was developed, and the upright stems bore leaves and bulbils only.

_Epilobium latifolium_ occurred among the stones in the glacier streams, and a very decumbent form of _Epilobium alpinum_ was common on the hillsides.

The hills all round were formed of loose morainic matter, the slopes consisting of fine sandy earth with pebbles, and the vegetation is distributed on the hillsides in the form of banks and terraces, thus giving the hills a peculiar appearance with very gentle steps. In some cases the vegetation has spread and grown over the edges of the terraces, and by further growth hummocks have been formed.

The formation of hummocky ground on a morainic hillside appears to be somewhat as follows:--

If conditions, such as snow-line, wind, etc. (on a bare hillside of sandy and stony ground) permit, isolated plants begin to appear, and collect soil around them by their prostrate habit of growth and with their roots; in consequence of the loose nature of the soil, and owing to the action of snow or water, slipping frequently takes place, and the plants tend to keep up the earth. As the plants spread, terraces get formed and the plants bank up the loose earth, and the mountain-side is then broken up into broad steps. The vegetation continues to grow over the edges of the terraces, and in consequence more soil is collected by the plants, and small mounds result, and later on, if the slope is not too great, true hummocks may be formed. If the slope is steep, the hummocks are usually flat-topped, but this is also often due to snow, wind, etc.

The hummocky ground usually seen occurs in fairly level country, and its origin may probably have been somewhat different from that just described; the hummocks are from one to two feet high, and the ruts between are often so narrow that two hummocks have frequently united. The normal breadth of a hummock is from one to two feet across, and it is closely covered by _Empetrum_ or _Cassiope_, with _Carex vulgaris_, the Moss _Rhacomitrium lanuginosum_, and the other plants already enumerated.

Hummocky ground was also met with in meadows at Gilhagi (near Maelifell); here they were covered by grass and other meadow-plants, and _Saxifraga cernua_ grew in masses in the depressions. These hummocks were on a hillside, and may have been originally formed in the manner already described; but owing to some change in the snow-line, meadow-land plants may have wandered up the hillside, and ousted the characteristic plants of the hummocks.

Our journey from Thjofadal to Gránanes lay for the most part over the lava-flows from Strytur, which were covered by a close-growing vegetation, large tussocks of moss, very dwarf _Saxifrages, S. cæspitosa_, _Empetrum_, _Salix herbacea_, and other plants usually found on the hummocks. True hummocks were, however, rare.

Near our camp and before the Svatá was reached we came to the end of the lava and crossed a sandy tract, and the usual change in the flora was at once noticeable; large clumps of willows bound the sand together, around which the soil collected, forming mounds, and patches of _Armeria_, _Arabia petræa_, _Silene_, and _Arenaria_ were scattered about. In some places the willows were killed by having been buried in the blown sand.

Between Gránanes and Hvitarvatn the country is at first hummocky, and then covered by birch and willow scrub. On the hummocks, especially in the patches of moss, _Saxifraga Hirculus_ was not uncommon. The large tract of swampy ground at the edge of the lake was covered by masses of cotton grass. Leaving Hvitarvatn our way lay through willow scrub until the Hvitá was reached. After crossing the river the ground was very rough, being composed of morainic matter from the adjacent mountains and covered with large angular blocks of lava. The only flowers growing here were _Arenuria_, _Armeria_, _Thymus_ and _Dryas_ in isolated patches. As we travelled farther south, the plants were noticed to be taller and more vigorous than those seen in the interior, and the flora was more home-like in character. _Juniperus_, _Betula odorata_, _Calluna_, and _Arctostaphylos uva ursi_ were noticed for the first time.

Both birches (_B. odorata_, _B. nana_) were very plentiful, and from two to three feet high (in the north _B. nana_ was only six to nine inches high) willows were not common.

Between Sandá and Gullfoss another small desert area was traversed where earth-pillars occurred. The plants were hardly able to exist, as the smaller ones were blown away, and the willows and birches were in many places buried by the blown sand.

Around Gullfoss the vegetation was luxuriant, _Geum rivale_, _Geranium sylvaticum_, and _Alchemilla vulgaris_ covered the ground, and above _Rubus saxatilis_ and _Frugaria vesca_ were abundant, whilst _Arctostaphylos uva ursi_ also grew in profusion.

At Bratholt we reached civilisation again, and were presented with some of the lichen from which the orange dye, still used in the island, is obtained.

Between Geysir and Thingvellir we passed through one of the largest forests in the island; the hillsides were covered with birch-bushes, and in places they were quite six feet high; usually they did not rise to a height of more than three or four feet, and the topmost branches became entangled in our legs as we rode among the bushes. All four species of birch were noticed, and the scent of the bruised leaves was very pleasant. By way of undergrowth, the ground was carpeted with _Geranium sylvaticum_, _Ranunculus repens_, and large patches of _Orchis maculata_, etc. It was altogether a beautiful spot, and we spent nearly four hours wending our way through it. The river Bruará runs through the middle of this forest.

At Thingvellir _Gentiana nivalis_ was found among other plants.

The rarity of blue flowers in the part of the island visited by us, and indeed throughout the island, was very striking, as the only other blue flowers noticed, besides the gentian, were the _Veronicas_, and the _Myosotis_ and _Viola tricolor_ found at Akureyri, and _Campanula rotundifolia_ and _Pleurogyne rotata_, which were found on the east coast on the return journey. _Gentiana campestris_ and _G. nivalis_ were also found on the west coast. _White_, _pale pink_, and _yellow_ were the common colours, white being the predominant. The three most common orchids, _Habenaria albida_, _Habenaria viridis_, and _Plantanthera hyperborea_ were green and fairly inconspicuous. Perhaps the most striking flowers are the large rose-coloured _Epilobium latifolium_, which grows on bare islands of stones and black sand in the glacier streams, the yellow _Saxifraga Hirculus_, and _Dryas octopetala_, which covers vast tracts of country.

Between Thingvellir and Keykjavik is an extensive _Heithi_, over which we rode rapidly. There appeared to be no features of any special interest, and as the day was very wet it was not possible to study the flora carefully. On the beach at Reykjavik _Mertensia maritima_ is a fairly common plant.

The hot springs at Hveravellir and other places contain large quantities of algæ, mostly belonging to the blue-green family or _Cyanophyceæ_. Specimens were collected from various springs at Hveravellir, Kerlingarfjöll, and Geysir, and the temperature of the water in which they were growing was carefully recorded. As I was unable to examine them in detail, I sent them to Professor West of Cirencester, who has worked through my material and published a paper on hot-spring algæ in the _Journal of Botany_,[2] in which he gives a list of all the algæ we brought back from Iceland.

The highest temperature at which algæ were found was 85° C. (185° F.). Most of the forms found had not been previously recorded from Iceland, and there was one new species belonging to the genus _Aulosira_, _A. thermalis_. Full details of these interesting algæ will be found in the paper to which a reference has been given.

APPENDIX II

A LIST OF PLANTS COLLECTED IN THE FAROES AND ICELAND IN JUNE AND JULY 1900

Caltha palustris I. F. Ranunculus flammula F. hyperboreus I. Seythisfjord, Kerlingarfjöll. pygmæus I. Thjofadal. repens I. F. Thalictrum alpinum I. F.

Papaver nudicaule I. Near Silfrastathir on screes and among stones in river bed.

Arabis alpina I. Thjofadal. petræa I. The desert between Athalmansvatn and Hveravellir, near Gránanes. Cardamine bellidifolia I. Thjofadal. pratensis I. F. Cochlearia officinalis I. F. groenlandica I. Draba alpina I. Thjofadal. rupestris I. verna I. F. incana I. Silfrastathir, etc. tomentosa I.

Viola cricetorum I. F. palustris I. F. tricolor I. Akureyri.

Polygala vulgaris F.

Alsine arctica[3] I. Athalmansvatn, Thjofadal.

Cerastium alpinum I. trigynum I. Akureyri. triviale I. Halianthus peploides F. Klaksvig. Lychnis flos cuculi F. Silene acaulis I. F. Silene maritima I. Lychnis alpina I. Stellaria uliginosa I. Seythisfjord. Arenaria norvegica I. rubella I.

Montia fontana I. F.

Hypericum pulchrum F. Klaksvig.

Linum catharticum I.

Geranium sylvaticum I. F.

Vicia cracca I. Narfeyri.

Alchemilla alpina I. F. vulgaris I. F. Comarum palustre I. F. Dryas octopetala I. F. Geum rivale I. F. Fragaria vesca I. Potentilla anserina I. Reykholt. maculata I. tormentilla I. F. Rubus saxatilis I. Modruvellir, Gullfoss, etc. Sibbaldia procumbens I. Athalmansvatn, Hveravellir.

Hippuris vulgaris I.

Epilobium alpinum I. Thjofadal. latifolium I. Gránanes. palustre I. alsinefolium I. Kerlingarfjöll.

Rhodiola rosea I. Thjofadal. Sedum villosum I.

Saxifraga aizoides I. Vopnafjord. cernua I. Gilhagi and Thjofadal. cæspitosa I. F. Hirculus I. hypnoides I. nivalis I. oppositifolia I. rivularis I. Thjofadal, Sandá, etc. stellaris I. F. Parnassia palustris I. Hveravellir, near Springs, etc.

Angelica sylvestris I. Hydrocotyle vulgaris I.

Galium boreale I. uliginosum I. F.

Achillea millefolium I. F. Bellis perennis I. F. Erigeron alpinus I. Gnaphalium norvegicum I. Isafjord, Hveravellir. supinum I. Isafjord, Hveravellir. Taraxacum dens leonis I. F.

Campanula rotundifolia I. Vopnafjord, Seythisfjord.

Pyrola media I. Hveravellir, Sandá. Vaccinium uliginosum I. Arctostaphylos uva ursi I. Near Thingvellir. Cassiope hypnoides I. (Especially on hummocky ground.) Calluna vulgaris I. Near Thingvellir. Loiseleuria procumbens I. Seythisfjord, Athalmansvatn.

Pinguicula vulgaris I. Hveravellir, near Springs. F.

Gentiana campestris I. Helgafell. nivalis I. Thingvellir. Pleurogyne rotata I. Vopnafjord. Menyanthes trifoliata I. Vopnafjord, etc. Mertensia maritima I. Reykjavik. Myosotis arvensis I. Akureyri. versicolor F.

Bartsia alpina I. (On hummocky ground.) Euphrasia officinalis et. varr. I. F. Pedicularis flammea I. Gilhagi, Athalmansvatn. Rhinanthus minor I. Sandá. Veronica alpina I. saxatilis I. serpyllifolia I. F. officinalis I.

Thymus serpyllum I. F. Galeopsis tetrahit I. Geysir. Prunella vulgaris I. Grund.

Armeria sibirica I.

Plantago maritima I.

Konigia islandica I. Oxyria digyna I. Polygonum viviparum I. Rumex acetosa I. acetosella I.

Empetrum nigrum I.

Salix glauca I. herbacea I. F. lanata I. phyllicifolia I. S.W. Iceland. arctica I. and others, hybrids, etc., which could not be determined.

Betula nana I. alpestris I. intermedia I. odorata I.

Triglochin palustre I. Corallorhiza innata I. Vopnafjord and Husavik. Habenaria viridis I. F. albida I. Orchis maculata I. F. Plantanthera hyperborea I.

Tofieldia borealis I.

Juncus balticus I. trifidus I. Luzula campestris I. multiflora I. spicata I.

Scirpus cæspitosus I. Carex capillaris I. rigida I. vulgaris I. (Common on hummocky ground.) Elyna spicata I. Eriophorum capitatum I. angustifolium I.

Agrostis stolonifer I. Hveravellir. Aira alpina I. Elymus arenarius I. Skagastrond. Festuca ovina I. Hierochloe borealis I. Phleum alpinum I. Poa alpina I. Anthoxanthum odoratum I.

Juniperus communis, v. nana I. Near Thingvellir.

Selaginella spinosa I. Hveravellir, etc. Lycopodium alpinum I. Hveravellir. F. selago I.

Blechnum spicant F. Cystopteris fragilis I. Botrychium lunaria I. Ophioglossum vulgatum, var. polyphyllum I. Hveravellir.

Equisetum arvense I. pratense I.

INDEX OF PLACES

Akrafjall, 129

Akureyri, 24-32, 50, 109, 196, 211, 218, 224

Alftafjord, 168, 170

Almanna-gjá, 107-109

Althing, 107, 116, 118, 119

Arctic Circle, 8, 24, 207

Arhver, 134

Arnarfjord, 155, 182

Arnarvatnsheithi, 122, 143

Ásquidsá, 76

Athalmansvatn, 53, 219

Athalmansvötn, 53

Audakilsá, 132

Barnafoss, 138-140, 143, 151, 153-155

Bathstovukver, 203, 204

Baula, 133, 155, 156, 161

Baula, Little, 155

Beljandi, 56

Berserkjahraun, 172, 176, 178

Berufjord, 214

Biludalr, 182

Bláfell, 83, 85, 88

Blandá, 55, 56, 192, 220

Blonduos, 192, 193

Bone Cave, 143, 146

Bordo, 12, 215

Borgarfjord, 132

Borovig, 13

Bortheyri, 192

Bratholt, 92, 95, 223

Breithifjord, 166, 169, 171, 172, 181, 182

Brgnjudalsá, 127

Bruará, 102, 103

Copenhagen, 1, 118

Dalatangi Point, 17

Deildardalr, 194

Draghals, 130, 132

Draghalsá, 131

Drangey Island, 195

Drapuhlitharfjall, 174

Dufufell, 60, 85

Dyrafjord, 183

Efriskutur, 80, 82

Einarstathir, 199, 200

Eldborg, 163-165

Engey Island, 119

Esja, 123, 124

Eskefjord, 213

Eyjafjord, 25, 29, 32, 196, 197

Eyjafjorthará, 29, 198

Eyri, 187

Eyriks Jökull, 137, 140, 142, 144, 161, 192

Eyvindarlaekur, 200

Fagraskogarfjall, 163, 164

Falakvisl, 69, 82

Faroes, 1, 6, 9, 185, 214, 215, 217

Faskruthsfjord, 214

Faxafloi (or Faxafjord), 156, 166

Ferstikluhals, 129

Fiskivötn, 142, 143

Fjnoská, 198

Flatey, 181

Flateyri, 186

Fljotsheithi, 199

Flokadalsá, 134

Fossá, 127

Framnes, 184

Fremrikot, 40

Geirsholmi, 128

Geitá, 140, 141

Geysir, 95, 97-102, 223, 224

Geysir, Little, 101

Gilhagi, 49, 50, 219, 222

Gilsbakki, 138, 140, 149, 150, 152, 154

Glerá, 31, 32

Gothafoss, 198

Gránanes, 68-70, 79, 80, 222, 223

Gretisbali, 163

Grimsá, 133, 134

Grjotá, 158, 161-163

Grjotardalr, 158

Grjotarvatn, 161

Grund, 132, 133

Gulf Stream, 124

Gullfoss, 80, 89-93, 96, 139, 223

Haffjathurá, 166, 167

Hegranes, 193

Helgafell, 163, 170, 171, 173, 174

Helgastathir, 200

Herradsvötn, 42-44, 47, 48, 194, 195

Hitá, 163, 164

Hitardalr, 163

Hjartharholt, 156, 158

Hoff Jökull, 54, 60, 68, 69, 85, 193

Hofthavatn, 195

Horgá, 32, 33

Horgadalr, 32

Horn, The, 188

Hornstrandr, 188

Hrafna-gjá, 104, 107, 108

Hraun, 183

Hraundalur, 159

Hrutafell, 54, 63, 64, 66-68, 83, 84

Hrutafjord, 192

Hunafjord, 192, 193

Hunafloi, 192, 193

Husafell, 140, 142

Husavik, 24, 25, 196, 198, 204-207, 218

Hvalfjord, 127, 129

Hvammsfjord, 172

Hvamsheithi, 202

Hveravellir, 57, 59, 62, 85, 220, 221, 224

Hvitá, 85, 86, 88, 90, 92, 129, 133, 137, 139, 140-143, 150, 151, 153-155, 223

Hvitarvatn, 60, 79, 80, 82, 83, 85, 90, 223

Icicle Cave, 143, 144, 149, 150

Isafjord, 186-188

Jarlhettur, 91

Jokulvisl, 72, 73

Kaldá, 140, 164, 165

Kalfstindar, 103

Kalmanstunga, 140-142, 145

Kalso, 12, 215

Kalsofjord, 12, 14, 215

Karl rock, 195

Kerling rock, 195

Kerlingarfjöll, 54, 71-76, 78, 79, 82-85, 150, 224

Kjalfell, 54, 68

Kjalhraun, 63, 83

Kjarrá, 155, 156

Klaksvig, 11-13

Kolbeinsdalr, 194

Kolbeinstathafjall, 164

Kolbeinstathir, 165, 166

Kropprmuli, 134

Kuno, 12, 215

Kuvikr, 189

Lagafell, 122

Lang Jökull, 54, 60, 63, 64, 66, 67, 70, 79, 81-83, 85, 90, 108, 122, 140, 141, 161, 192, 193

Langá, 158

Langanes, 23

Langavatn, 160, 161

Laug, 135

Laugarvatn, 103

Laugarvatnshellirar, 103

Laxá, 124, 125, 127, 129, 200, 202

Laxadal, 125

Laxavogr, 125

Leirárvogar, 129

Leiruvogsá, 123

Leith, 1, 3, 215

Lille Dimon, 6, 9

Litlisandr, 52

Ljosavatn, 198

Ljosavatnskarth, 198

Logberg, 107, 109

Lundey Island, 207

Maelifell, 49, 222

Maelifellshnukr, 43, 45, 49, 194

Malmey Island, 195

Mithfjord, 192

Mjofifjord, 17

Mossfell, 122, 123, 129

Mount Tarawera (N.Z.), 58

Muláfjall, 127

Mular, 158

Muli, 200

Murderesses' Pool, 108, 109

Myrkar Jökull, 194

Narfeyri, 168, 169

Nes, 201, 202

North Atlantic Drift, 124

North Cape, 188

North Island (N.Z.), 77

North-West Peninsula, 182, 188, 193

Northfjord, 16, 17, 213

Northingafljot, 142, 143, 149, 150

Northrá, 40-42, 156

Northradal, 41, 42

Northtunga, 155

Nypsfjord, 207

Oddeyri, 27, 31, 32, 198

Onundarfjord, 186

Oxará, 108, 109

Oxnadalr, 33, 218

Oxnadalsá, 33, 40

Patreksfjord, 182

Pink Terraces of N.Z., 58

Rauthamisolkaldá, 167

Rauthimelr, 166

Rauthkollur, 66, 67

Reykholt, 133-137, 139

Reykholtsdal, 137

Reykir, 203, 204

Reykjadalr, 199

Reykjadalsá, 134, 136, 155, 200

Reykjarfjord, 189

Reykjavik, 25, 49, 50, 102, 109-115, 117, 119, 121, 122, 133, 135, 172, 175, 179, 224

Reykjavisl, 203

Reynivallahals, 127

Reynivellir, 125-127

Sandá, 90, 223

Sandfell, 125

Saurar, 174

Sautharkrokr, 193

Seythisfjord, 17, 20, 21, 209, 211-213, 218

Siglufjord, 195

Silfrastathr, 42, 45, 46, 47, 218, 219

Sithumuli, 155

Skagafjord, 194

Skagastrond, 193

Skalafell, 123

Skarthsheithi, 132, 161

Skeljafiall, 54

Skjalfandafljot, 199

Skjalfandi, 24, 207

Skorradalsvatn, 132

Skriflir, 135

Skrutharfell, 83

Skuo, 6

Skutilsfjord, 186

Snaefell Peninsula, 168

Snaefellsnes, 166

South Ronaldshay, 5

Stafholt, 156

Statharhraun, 152, 156, 158, 159, 162, 163

Stathr, 129

Store Dimon, 9

Stori Ás, 137

Strangákvisl, 55

Strokur, 97, 98

Stromo, 9

Strutr, 137, 138, 141, 142

Strytur, 60, 61, 63-66, 68, 82, 83, 221, 222

Stykkisholm, 170-172, 179

Sudero, 6

Sugandisey, 172, 173

Surtshellir Caves, 122, 141-145, 150, 154

Svarfholsmuli, 158-160

Svartá, 48, 49

Svatá, 69, 82, 85, 223

Sviná, 124

Svinadal, 124, 129

Svinaskarth, 124

Thingeyri, 183

Thingvallavatn, 105, 107, 110

Thingvellir, 95, 104-111, 122, 223, 224

Thjofadal, 63, 66, 67, 221, 222

Thjofadalsá, 63

Thjofafell, 68

Thorshavn, 9, 185, 215

Thorvaldsdalsá, 151

Thverá (river), 155

Thverá (in Oxnadal), 35, 37, 218

Thyrill, 127-129

Thyrillsnes, 128

Trangisvaag, 6-8

Tunga, 138, 140, 142, 150

Tungufljot, 97

Tunguhver, 134, 155

Tungusveit, 48

Unadal Jökull, 194

Unadalr, 194

Uxhaver Geyser, 202, 203

Vallholt, 105

Vathlaheithi, 197, 198

Vatnsnes, 192

Veithileysa, 189, 190

Vestmannsvatn, 200

Vestradalsá, 208

Vestri-Skarthsheithi, 156, 158-160, 201

Vopnafjord, 21-23, 207, 208, 218

THE END

_Printed by_ R. & R. CLARK, LIMITED, _Edinburgh_.

Telegrams: 37 Bedford Street, 'Scholarly, London.' Strand, London. _October, 1903._

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Cicero's 'De Amicitia' in Latin and English (John Harrington's translation, Elizabethan).

_COPIES MAY YET BE OBTAINED OF THE FOLLOWING:_

=The 'Parentalia' of Sir Christopher Wren.= The Life and Account of the Works of the Great Architect by his Son. Containing a series of illustrations of the remaining City Churches. £3 13s. 6d. nett.

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KING EDWARD THE SEVENTH'S PRAYER-BOOK.

This will be a sumptuous edition of the Book of Common Prayer, which, by gracious permission of His Majesty, will be entitled 'King Edward the Seventh's Prayer-Book.'

The new Prayer-Book will be hand printed at the Essex House Press, and, whilst conforming to the Authorized Version, will rank, as a piece of typography, with the Great Prayer-Book of Edward VI. It is to be in new type designed by Mr. C. R. Ashbee, with about one hundred and fifty woodcuts, and is to be printed in red and black on Batchelor hand-made paper. There will also probably be a special binding of green vellum with a gold block design and clasps.

Exceptional circumstances connected with the Book of Common Prayer render it essential that this work, in order to be of historic value, shall be issued with the imprint of the King's printers; the Prayer-Book will therefore be published by his Majesty's printers, Messrs. Eyre and Spottiswoode, acting under the Royal Letters Patent, who will superintend the work of the Essex House Press.

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THE ARCHBISHOP OF ARMAGH. H. O. ARNOLD-FORSTER, M.P. LORD ALVERSTONE. RIGHT HON. H. H. ASQUITH, K.C., M.P. LORD AVEBURY. RIGHT HON. A. J. BALFOUR, M.P. SIR ROWLAND BLENNERHASSETT, Bart. RIGHT HON. ST. JOHN BRODRICK, M.P. SIR VINCENT CAILLARD. RIGHT HON. J. CHAMBERLAIN, M.P. ARTHUR CHAMBERLAIN. E. T. COOK. LORD CURZON OF KEDLESTON. PROFESSOR A. V. DICEY, K.C. RIGHT HON. SIR MOUNTSTUART GRANT-DUFF. SIR EDWARD GREY, Bart., M.P. COL. LONSDALE HALE, R.E. RIGHT HON. LORD GEORGE HAMILTON, M.P. BENJAMIN KIDD. RUDYARD KIPLING. SIDNEY J. LOW. CAPTAIN A. T. MAHAN. J. A. FULLER MAITLAND. W. H. MALLOCK. GEORGE MEREDITH. DR. MAX NORDAU. H.M. KING OSCAR II. RIGHT HON. SIR HORACE RUMBOLD, Bart., G.C.B., G.C.M.G. THE MARQUIS OF SALISBURY, K.G. SIR LESLIE STEPHEN, K.C.B.

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FOOTNOTES:

[1] _Polygonum viviparum_ in the "host" for the Uredo stage of this fungus, and the disease was noticed on it in several places.

[2] "On some Algæ from Hot Springs," G. S. West, _Journal of Botany_, July 1902, p. 242.

[3] Not in _Warming's_ list, but given by _Babington_ from Akureyri.