Chapter 8
In the morning Mary came to see me off. All the family seemed in sorrow at the thought of my going; continually finding something to send; opened my portmanteau two or three times. Half past eleven brought the stage and I was forced to take my leave, all of us greatly affected, particularly Alice (the mother) and I, that could never expect to see each other again. I shook hands with each one and said to them "God bless you" and then hurried out of the house. Mary came on part of the way. Got to Orrell 1/4 past 1 to await the mail from Oswego; proceeded in 20 minutes; arrived at Towanda half past four; the last 8 miles very disagreeable, warm and dusty. Paid 87-1/2 cents. Met with Mr. Overton an English gentleman who said he would call upon me. He did so, took me to his house, gave me wine then took me to another Englishman Mr. Wandsey a hearer of Dr. Rees. His sister was to accompany Miss Martineau. Paid fare to Berwick 3-1/2 dollars, and 31 cents for tea and bed. Very glad to find such favourable accounts of Mr. Kay and his family. All along the locusts had been destroyed.
WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 27TH.
Left Towanda 1/4 before six, a misty morning; the road lined with walnut and oak trees and the wild vine; only myself in the stage. Enquired if no mistakes in the charge for bed and tea, said it was the usual charge. Crossed over the Sugar Mountain so called because of so many maples; one part of the walk very disagreeable through ferns and over old trees and all this before breakfast. Arrived at Cherrytown village half past one, without any food for man or beast since setting out, luckily I got a draught of milk; the passengers three young people who had been at a wedding. Had a most excellent breakfast and dinner, good coffee all for 25 cents. This stage 4 horses 21 miles, six times a week, one of the horses has done it 9 years. Not much of a prospect from the summit on account of the trees. A Northumbrian living at the top said America was the place for a poor man; 5 or 6 families came out before him, and only one had failed; and he had property. In some parts ascending the mountain the very worst road I have seen, one of the poor horses lost a shoe, but could have no help till we got to the end, 21 miles: arrived soon after eight, the horse being much less lame than could have been expected. At Columbus our crazy coach had to be girded as it had to go over a very dangerous ridge. We got safe to Berwick at 1/2 past 12, got coffee 25 cents; passage 1-3/4 dollars.
THURSDAY, AUGUST 28TH.
A pleasant ride along the canal and the Susquehanna, free from dust. Got to Northumberland before 10. Large frogs at one part in the canal. Called on Mr. Kay, he had had an illness which prostrated him much and been unable to preach during that time. Had a long and interesting chat with the family, 4 sons and 4 daughters, the eldest are smart girls, one about 24, the other 30, the youngest 16. Dined with them in a very pleasant family way, roasted mutton and Yorkshire pudding. Mrs. K. gave me a note to Dr. Priestley's[30] grandson at the Bank, and desired me to ask him to tea. Spent the evening at the Kay's, very nice people, the second daughter very pleasing and difficult to leave, perhaps would have been impossible in a short time. Mr. Priestley joined us.
FRIDAY, AUGUST 29TH.
Met the gentleman I had seen at Montrose. Paid for bed and breakfast, good coffee, 37-1/2 cents, and 2-1/2 dollars to Pottsville. Walked with Mr. Priestley to his grandfather's grave and also to the house where he died; a beautiful willow planted by the doctor. Spent an hour with Mr. Kay. Left Northumberland at 10, changed horses after 13-1/2 miles. A most delightful morning.
SATURDAY, AUGUST 30TH.
Called at four. Took up a gentleman who proved to be an English Catholic priest, very intelligent and pleasant. Soon got on the railway, a pleasant ride through the forest, got a glass of milk; breakfasted at Tuscarora, 25 cents. Passed Tamaqua, where a Catholic chapel had lately been erected; my companion the minister. Travelled through a narrow path covered with brushwood; came to the summit where an immense mass of coal is worked like an open stone quarry; the coal is taken away on rails to Mauch Chunk and then by canal to Philadelphia, etc., etc. The waggon and cars are let down by one man who can move a drag upon each by means of a connecting rope, and the mules also ride down to draw up the empty waggons. Descended in 45 minutes 40 miles. Mauch Chunk most romantically situated at the foot of the mountains almost overhanging the town. Left my friend the priest. Arrived at Lehigh Gap 1/4 past 2, an interesting drive, changing sides with the canal and river. One of the old greys like that yesterday, made a few false steps. We now left the canal and river; a surly driver, near losing my coat; some walnuts; a good deal of Dutch spoken in this neighbourhood. Arrived at Easton 1/4 past seven. Finding no direct conveyance to Trenton and that the fare to Philadelphia is only one dollar, I have agreed to go to Philadelphia. Paid for supper and bed 50 cents. Got to bed at 8.
SUNDAY, AUGUST 31ST.
Called at half past three; left at four; passed over a bridge of wood suspended by iron chains, took a seat with the driver; a little drizzling rain; the button trees[31] again; apples more plentiful; the drive beautiful along the river (Delaware), high hills on each side; the woods a little tinted; some thorn hedges; a good many walnut trees. Had coffee and pancakes, paid 30 cents. The land generally better cleared and the houses more substantially built. Passed a funeral of a woman who burned herself to death yesterday by smoking. A long range of stabling shut up, and the hotel changed into a private house. The driver said these canals and railways would be the ruin of the country. Most beautiful weeping willows; some of the slender branches hanging down 5 or 6 feet. Passed the race course or rather trotting course; this is generally run by drawing a light high-wheeled sulky. Stopped at the White Swan Hotel, Philadelphia, where the coach stopt; found it to be a good inn but rather too far from the Exchange, etc. After washing and changing my dress I called upon the Masons to know about worship in the evening; went and heard a most excellent sermon by Mr. Furness: Heb. 12 and 2 verse, "Look to Him." He mentioned the general desire to do well but the difficulty of performance, the character of Christ the most influential; mentioned the perplexity attending the belief in His two natures.
MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 1ST.
Returned early to bed, and this morning found heavy rain; how extremely fortunate that I have completed my tour in such brilliant weather, not having had occasion for an umbrella since leaving Philadelphia. Borrowed an old ragged umbrella and called at Mr. Hulme's, found Mr. H. gone to N.Y. and also Mr. Rollanson gone from home. Kindly invited to stop with Mr. H. during my stay at Philadelphia. Called upon Mr. Kay's son; found him in a large book store; then called upon Mr. Scholfield but not seeing him promised to call at three. Walked to the Exchange and read the English papers, after dinner went and sat three hours with Mr. Scholfield; found him less altered than most of my old acquaintances, he lives with his daughter who is married to a Londoner, named Patten, and carries on the stay or corset business. Mr. S. a very sensible man greatly opposed to Jackson; has some little municipal office; well acquainted with the Crooks, Mrs. Marsden, and others. Had tea with the Masons, and had a good deal of talk about old matters in England. Servetus, a very respectable young man carrying on an extensive blacking trade; the sister a very steady girl had lived some time with Mr. Furness. The old man as eccentric as ever, his wife looking old but cheerful.
TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 2ND.
Called at Kay's book store and selected a few books to send to N. M. Then called again upon Ridings; after dinner walked to the wharf and saw a steamer going to N.Y. Observed a good many persons fishing without much success; then to the Exchange news room. Read the account of Mrs. Hardcastle's death, G. Crompton's and M. Houghton's marriage, and Mr. Shepherd made into a Doctor. Then strolled past the Mansion House into Walnut Street and Chesnut Street. Took tea at Mr. Hulme's, found a younger son who is preparing to practise medicine, also Francis Taylor on his way to N.Y. to see his mother. Met Mr. Rollanson; the younger brother gone to Louisville. Had some nice peaches and melon at supper. Invited to dinner to-morrow which I could not refuse. After the rain the streets, particularly the footpaths and white marble steps appear remarkably clean. Mr. Scholfield says there is a person who has ten thousand peach trees in one orchard, and 4 such orchards.
WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 3RD.
Called at Mr. Kay's printing place and found a son of J. Haslam's. Then called upon the father who is become very gray; the son also is turning gray; he was settled many years at a college at Charleston advantageously, but was obliged to give up on account of health; he has now a small school which is on the increase; a good apparatus; his mother well acquainted with uncle Thomas's wife, and his father a companion of my uncles and father. Mr. Scholfield called this morning to say that he expected Mr. John Wood at his house to meet me. Selected some more books for N. M.'s family and wrote two letters to N. M., and his daughter Mary. At two dined at Mr. Hulme's, met another son of Dr. Taylor's employed at a manufactory. After dinner walked to a private museum; a good collection of birds, shells, etc., also some fine works on natural history with beautiful coloured plates; an immense collection of specimens of plants bequeathed to the institution. A skeleton riding on horseback made ludicrous by a spider's web resembling a bridle. Thence we visited Mr. Pierpoint's garden. Took tea at Mr. Scholfield's but did not see Mr. Wood. Then set off to an election meeting and heard some good speaking; a little monkey not 8 years old smoking a cigar. An attempt to disturb the meeting by a cry of fire and then the engines, but it did not take. Found at the hotel, Ridings, Haslam, Mason, J. Hodkinson also the Newcastle gentleman.
THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 4TH.
Walked through the market though not market day, a large supply of everything, the butchers in clean shirts and some with smart collars; vegetables of every form and colour, at least ten cart loads of melons six to twenty four inches long. Called upon Mrs. Hughes once Miss Robson, talked about Mrs. Kay, Jeffery Smith, Alice Mason and Esther Scholes, then to the book sale confined to the trade; told young Frank Taylor he would soon make his fortune and then come and spend it in England. On mentioning my ignorance about quills, F. T. said it was a mysterious business and booksellers were often deceived; the same with sealing wax till it was tried. F. T. desired me to send C. D. over and he would show him 10,000 different insects every year. Called again upon the Haslams and found myself invited to spend the evening at Mr. Vaughan's. Walked through the rooms, sat in Dr. Franklin's chair and also that of Columbus. Invited to breakfast with Mr. V., asked whether tea or coffee; returned, and spent the evening with the Haslams. Called again at Mr. Hulme's but Mr. H. had not returned from N.Y. Urged very much to write on my arrival. Mrs. H. desires me to say at the Dean's foundry, that her son was comfortably settled upon 400 acres of land in Canada; and had children.
FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 5TH.
Called upon J. Scholfield on my way to Mr. Vaughan's; found Mr. V. busy writing, spent upwards of an hour most delightfully with Mr. V. and his old acquaintance Mr. De Pontean. I said to the old gentleman they seemed to know each other, he replied, "We have been 50 years trying to find out each other." Walked to see Dr. Franklin's grave; by means of a chair I scrambled up the wall and read as follows:
Benjamin and } Deborah } Franklin.
Found a blind school to be a favourite object with Mr. V., presented ten dollars. Found Mr. Scholfield at the hotel with several pamphlets. He and his son-in-law Patten, and young Moss accompanied me to the steamer. Old Mr. V. met me there and also young Hodkinson. Found it necessary to tear myself away from Philadelphia as the longer I stayed the more difficulty in getting away. Left at 10-1/2, got to Trenton about two, rained most of the way. Finding no stage to Laurenceville engaged a dearborn[32] or covered gig for another 1/4 dollar. Learned on my way that John was gone from home. Found Mr. and Mrs. Bowker, also a young Rollanson nephew of Mr. J. R. at Philadelphia with W. B. to learn farming. Immediately had coffee, then peaches and melons most of the afternoon, then tea and more fruit. A chat and to bed at half past nine. Slept with young Rollanson.
SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 6TH.
Got up soon after six; rested pretty well. Set off to Trenton to market, purchased a basket of peaches for 20 cents. Had some conversation with a lusty ironmonger, etc., then purchased a little gingerbread and two pair neck laces 3/4 dollars. Drove back another way, part of the road through the forest. Ate some more most delicious melons, set off to Laurenceville Post Office, got the American Farmers' monthly publication; then called upon Mr. Phillips, a very sensible pleasant gentleman; also Mrs. P. from Philadelphia. After dinner sat under the shade of the trees near the house chatting about home, then walked into the cornfields. Some corn ten to twenty feet high, with ears 12 to 16 inches, then through the orchard, many of the Newtown Pippins and others equally large, the ground covered with fine apples. Mr. B. plucking one off the trees biting a piece throwing it to the ground. The quantity, size, and quality truly surprising; more like a dream than a reality. Then went to see some plowing, met with a serpent about two feet long that jumped into some water. Mr. B. got a large stick and at length poked it out, the sting quite visible, it coiled itself up for a spring; he struck it and a whole frog was found in its belly undigested and yet it was in pursuit of another. Mr. and Mrs. Green's son and daughter came to spend the evening with us. Mr. G. an old settler, and a Puritan, said a long grace and then we had another melon feast. Mr. B. gave them about a score of very fine ones; left the "Child's own Book."
SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 7TH.
Did not rise until after seven; Mr. B. presented me with tips of Indian arrows for Mr. Baker and C. D. After breakfast Mr. B. and I walked out together, visited the family graveyard 5 or 6 of the old settlers, Brearley buried in 1756, about 50 years of age, and younger branches of the family. Partook of some more melons, truly delicious. Set off to Church, found a nice spacious clean place; a poor respectable audience rigged out as Mr. B. said in their best, the singing chiefly managed by one person in the Walmsley tone; as in all other places not much joined in by the congregation; the prayers simple and unobjectionable, but the sermon very poor, ultra orthodox thing, text 8 Romans, first six verses, Original sin, morality, etc. worse than Pike Presbyterianism, and worse than English Calvinism, Redemption by Christ deferred till next Sunday when the Sacrament will be delivered; notice of two new members having been examined and then admitted. Mr. Axton the minister a man about 30 years old, gives notice of a giving day when all kinds of presents are made. Tea, etc., prepared by the young folks, and the young ladies serve it out; only one service. Engaged to visit at Mr. Clarke's whose daughter is engaged to Jonathan Bowker, she is a pleasing unaffected person. On returning from Chapel I expressed a very great wish to see a humming bird. Mr. B. said they were often about some flowers near the pump; just coming to the house I observed one not much larger than a large bee, going into one of the red flowers resembling the honeysuckle.
MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 8TH.
Got up at five; left Laurenceville about six, Mr. B. engaged in writing letters till three o'clock. Mr. B. mentioned a great desire to assist his brother, said £100 for two or three years would enable him to do so; having such favourable accounts from Mr. Hulme and Mr. Walker I promised to send him that sum. Met the young Taylors on the railway, ate some peaches; offered a loan of £100 to F. Taylor but he thankfully declined. Agreed to meet the younger T. at the steamboat at six the following morning. Walked to F. D.'s warehouse and there found another letter from C. D. All well. Wrote a short letter to C. telling them of my return by the _Hibernia_ on the 10th. Spent the evening very pleasantly with the D.'s. Mrs. D. not very well having been obliged to stop suckling her little one. J. D. charged 62 cents for 100 dollars upon all property.
TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 9TH.
This morning rose soon after five with the intention of going to Poughkeepsie; but there hardly appeared time to get to the steamboat, and a shower of rain settled the matter. Engaged all forenoon in reading the "Bolton Chronicle," July 5, saw an account of uncle Yates's death. Walked into the town; visited the great book sale, purchased at Carville another copy of the "American Tourist" for 1-1/2 dollars. Called upon Mr. Crook and walked through his warehouse, a large stock of cotton, woollen blankets, counterpanes and stockings. Found R. Crook going by the _Hibernia_; walked with James Dean to the Wharf and took my berth in the _Hibernia_ for Liverpool; found the Captain pleasing but not so experienced as Captain S. K. Took dinner at the Franklin House, roasted turkey, bread and potatoes with some apple pie and a glass of water for 9_d._; then called upon a Mr. Butcher from Sheffield at Mr. Bliss's; took two glassfuls of Madeira, almost tipsy. Bought a razor strop for two dollars; then to J. D. after tea; went to a Mr. Alexander Taylor where Frank was stopping, found him a jovial pleasant man, also Mrs. T. formerly Burton, and sister-in-law to Joseph Wood's wife, and cousin to William R. Crook, like J. D., converted by his wife; so much for Unitarianism.
WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10TH.
Got up at five. Jones's phaeton came up soon after, he drove me to the steamer _Erie_, just in time, as usual both boats full; a delightful morning, met several steamboats one towing two boats on each side and one behind. The rocks on the west side very steep and the strata very perpendicular. Paid for passage and breakfast 87-1/2 cents, but unfortunately no milk. About 100 at the first table; saw some sturgeons leap out of the water. The scenery up the Hudson the finest in the neighbourhood of West Point. Very pleasant and quite cool enough. Got to Poughkeepsie at half-past eleven. Found Miss J. and Miss Mary at home in a pleasant house in Union Street, though the scene of the cholera the last two years. After dinner drove through the town to Dr. H.'s garden about four miles; the grounds pretty and the walks delightful along the Hudson. Had another peep at the Hotel on the Catskill Mountain; the Dr. very kind and we spent the evening very pleasantly: Mr. J. looking better than in England and Mary taller, both greatly attached to the old country. Robert is married and living with Mrs. J., and Mrs. R. like all American wives appears delicate. A good deal said against the morals of the poor Americans, no relying on their word, lax habits. Paid for the carriage three dollars.
THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 11TH.
Rose at seven. Soon after breakfast I visited the cemetery and copied the lines on John Taylor. The morning cool; after another chat went to the steamer with Hudson; we were too soon but I enjoyed the scenery particularly the ingenious management of a sloop. At 1/4 before 12 observed the two boats sailing nearly together. The smaller got in first but persuaded by Hudson I took the larger the _Champlain_, sailed 5 minutes past 12 racing and betting, as on horses. Paid for passage and dinner 1 dollar. The most romantic part of the Hudson near West Point; one fellow devoured almost more butter at dinner than all Mr. Whitehead's family for a week. Do not observe many gentlemen's seats on the banks of the Hudson on the New York side; the opposite is too rocky and precipitous. Observed a funeral supposed to be a negro, as all the attendants excepting the driver of the hearse were people of colour; two of the first appeared to be ministers, both dressed with white cravats; a number on foot after the body, with two coaches filled mostly with females.
FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 12TH.
James Dean set off early to the warehouse. I walked with Thomas who wished me to speak to his brother lest he should indulge too freely in drink. Walked through the fruit market, found it well supplied, then the fish, found many all alive alivo. A cart load of cods weighed by means of a double steel yard, one below and suspended from the other. The cart suspended by a chain fastened to each axle outside the wheel, and the front of the cart and the other wound up by a capstan. The grapes in the market of a poor sort: no wonder that peaches and melons are preferred. Called at Mr. W. and received but poor accounts of Dr. Marsden who has been worse since he left: thought he had liver complaint and he considered his lungs to be affected. Curious screw docks, eight on each side raise the frame on which the ship is floated. After dinner at the Franklin House, James Dean and I set off to H.; took a ride upon the circular railway, watched them play at nine pins, the bowls returned by means of an inclined wooden conductor into which the balls are put by the person who sets up the pins. Afterwards walked along a beautiful shady road with occasionally a glimpse at the Hudson and the beautiful white sails; then across an embankment over a swamp; along a beautiful road and through the grounds and garden of Mr. King, where we had a most charming view of New York, the Hudson, etc., etc. Could not get tea at either hotel till the usual time; got very good coffee near the theatre, and only charged 19 cents each. Went to the theatre; very full; met Webster, he had seen all our passengers but Mr. Grindrod. Mr. Hamilton was about returning by Quebec, Mr. Cayley stopping with his brother at Toronto.
SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 13TH.
Called upon R. Wood; met with his wife and two children living in Hebron Street, second floor, 2 rooms connected by folding doors; the one rather smart and the other a kitchen, etc., etc. Bought another copy of Bryant's "Poems" the other given to Mrs. D. Called upon F. Taylor and agreed to call at Carville on Tuesday morning for letters from Mrs. J. Set off to bathe with James, and Thomas and his wife and daughter and a Miss Jones; a pleasant drive along the shore. Inspected the new fort, no guns mounted, more than a mile very heavy and sandy; took dinner; saw a mosquito net. Approaching the town saw a fire. Called at a garden lately owned by a Frenchman; went to see the fire, found it to be the Presbyterian Chapel in Wall Street. Much difficulty in getting through the street in consequence of the pipes, had to move back three times. Hard driving through Broadway; near running over several persons; once between a car and omnibus the former stopping suddenly. A pleasant chat till half past ten. Mrs. Bliss stopped with the children during Mrs. D.'s absence, but was gone home before we returned.
SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 14TH.