Chapter 7

Rose before six. Put on my best that I might lose no time in dressing at Newport. A good deal of rain in the night. Taken in a coach to the steamboat. Charged 25 cents for about 100 yards. The weather cleared up and I had a pleasant sail. Found that Dr. Channing resided about five miles from Newport, and was known by everybody. Met the Boston and New York steamer. Stopped at the Eagle Hotel, did not like the old gruff fellow at the hotel, he could not let me have a room but only a bed with five others in the room; this I refused, and was told of another with three beds, but only two likely to be occupied; I was forced to take this, and then set off in quest of an Unitarian chapel. At length one was pointed out, on coming out I enquired the name of the preacher. A stranger from North Carolina; asked if any other Unitarian place of worship; he said this was not Unitarian but Baptist. I said it was Unitarian preaching whatever named. I entered a very neat place and heard part of a sermon by a smart young preacher. This proved Episcopalian; on returning to the Eagle was shown into a very small room with five beds. This I refused and was then shown the other with three. I asked if there was any Unitarian place of worship. I was told not, and found it to be the case. The doctor will hardly be able to make amends for this miserable place. Just before dinner I met with a gentleman I had seen at Saratoga, and took a walk with him. After dinner we went to hear a Presbyterian who preached from John viii, v. 20; the congregation numerous, and singing was congregational, and as usual there was a large proportion of females. Then walked about a mile to a nice little bay where some boys were bathing; I also could not resist, notwithstanding the sharks; the waves were large and the shore sandy; I had a pleasant bathe. After tea we went to an Episcopalian Church, very full, but with 10 women to one man; should have expected their sweethearts would have been numerous. A young man preached, but not with much ability.

MONDAY, AUGUST 11TH.

Rose at half past five, having slept better than I expected; all the three beds were occupied, and mine was not only small, but resting upon four sticks, and was so built that my head could touch the sloping ceiling from one part. A delightful morning; no letter at the Post Office. Three spitting boxes in the bar 16" × 24". Set off to visit Dr. Channing[27] at Gibson by the Boston stage; surprised to drive up to the house and greatly disappointed to find the Doctor leaving home by the same stage. I had only just time to give him the letter from Mr. Lee and shake hands with him. I took a walk into the garden then stepped into the house, introduced myself to the lady who proved to be Mrs. Channing and sat some time. Then took a walk into the adjoining wood; met with a stout good-looking youth, asked what relation the doctor was to him, and was told his father, and that he had a sister older, who had gone with his father; expected them to stay a fortnight. Saw a curious bee-hive, and walked again into the house; learned that the Dr. was generally in better health, that he had purposed preaching every other Sunday at Portsmouth, but yesterday had found himself unable, which I had seen noted in the Newport paper; he was engaged about six hours daily at his studies and often a good deal tired. Paid to Dr. C. and back, 75 cents. Left Newport at half past two, fare 5 dollars; at six a dense fog, so that they had to keep sounding and frequently stopped the engines. Took coffee and fish, etc., with about 200 people; walked again some time on deck, still very hazy, so that I might as well go to bed. A gentleman told me of a decent berth at the extreme stern and I soon took possession. In some parts the sea was smooth, then boiling, also large waves.

TUESDAY, AUGUST 12TH.

Awoke several times, and got up at half past five. Found all my clothes quite damp, excepting my trousers which I had placed in my berth, and gave coat, waistcoat and shirt to be dried. Got down my portmanteau and put on other things. Went on deck at six, found we were nearly 30 miles from New York; after some time I went down and found my clothes dry and put on the shirt. On coming up we were passing Hell Gate[28], a very narrow and rocky passage. Some good country houses: a large new jail. A fine view of the city and shipping; every now and then a jutting wharf about the length of a ship. Arrived at New York at eight; in walking to the Post Office with Mrs. Channing's letter, I met with Thomas Dean, and got my two letters from Mr. Baker and C. D. Found J. Dean looking thinner. We walked through some auction stores to J. Hulme's son-in-law; he keeps a very large Book-Stall; hence I entered an auction of watches, afterwards of wine, etc.; then to the Exchange, but soon got tired of standing to read the papers. Read over again my letters; devoured two peaches; was charged 3_d._ T. D. kindly invited me to his house; had purchased one for 11,000 dollars; would have given 12 as he considered it worth 13 or 14 thousand dollars. Found a splendid house; a black waiter; dined in the basement storey; silver forks. James drove me out in a phaeton; called for my portmanteau, and then took me to another part of the city; returned to tea, afterwards went to Niblos Gardens. Had dinner and soon after getting home there was thunder and some rain. Mrs. D. much as when in England, their little girl much indulged; did not see the infant.

WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 13TH.

Rose at five, set off for Rockaway bathing place. The horse sadly infested with flies which made it bleed in many places. Passed a large swamp, and here first met with that troublesome insect the mosquito. Arrived at 10; a very large hotel containing 186 rooms. Sat down and read with much pleasure the remains of a Bolton Chronicle. Set off to bathe; the sand beautifully white, the breakers very large in consequence of the thunder and wind last night. Could hardly swim but amused myself in standing against the breakers. Troubled with mosquitoes and also a little pain in my ear, which had continued a day or two and prevented me from going on my journey. At half past two music announced dinner, the ladies were accompanied by the gentlemen. Found our places at the entrance into the room being the last comers. A large bill of fare particularly of wines; we had a bottle of claret and I ate a head of corn, and relished it better than before. About 160 persons. After dinner we had a pleasant ramble down the shore talking over old matters at home. Returned to tea, again serenaded by music; then read from English papers; walked in to see them dance: went to bed at half past nine. At noon on the stage coming up one of the horses fell down, overdone with fatigue and heat; got up and fell down several times and died in about half an hour. A limit to their sufferings. Our room No. 155.

THURSDAY, AUGUST 14TH.

Rose at five; a pleasant morning; found the breakers still more than I expected. On the road to Jamaica terribly vexed by mosquitoes; stockings coloured with blood. Several farms for sale; overstocked I guessed with these terrible insects. Got breakfast near Jamaica. Washed and took a little refreshment. Set off in one of the stages and arrived at New York a little before 12; called on R. Crook but did not meet with him. Walked into Broadway was asked 2/7 for cotton gloves; purchased a book of psalm-tunes for 1 dollar. Went to see the great hotel building in Broadway; about 100 men at work, most of them Irish. Went with J. D. through the register office where an account is kept of all the titles (to estates?) and mortgages. Rode to dinner in one of the stages, the usual charge 6_d._ but a quantity of tickets may be purchased at half price. The distance of the stage about two miles; experienced great inconvenience from the excessive itching occasioned by the mosquito bites in the morning. After dinner we set out to see James's horse; found it not well and no wonder, the stable in a cellar; the stalls narrow; a suffocating spot; then walked across what is called East River to see the dry docks; the ships are placed upon a frame, and then by means of an endless chain wound up on to the shore to be repaired. The tides here seldom vary more than three or four feet; on our return found Jackson and his friend Ingham; they stopped two hours laughing and talking all the time.

FRIDAY, AUGUST 15TH.

Got up at half past six; a good night with only one scratch, though a good deal of inflammation most of the morning. After breakfast played some of the psalm tunes. At 9 set off with J. D. to the end of the island, a very pleasant drive and beautiful opening into the Hudson. Bathed in a rather muddy creek. Pulled an apple on going which we liked, so on returning got a further supply. Some men fishing and others gathering oysters. Got a comfortable dinner; then drove on the other side towards Harlem a fine spacious road.

Many trotters in their sulkies and others driving very fast. Appearance of a storm. Only charged 2 dollars for the horse. Played several psalm tunes. Engaged a vehicle to take me to the steam boat in the morning. Went sadly to bed. Packed up the needful; besides the mosquitoes, there was a little grey insect like a louse that bit very sharply; still itching and swelled from the mosquitoes.

SATURDAY, AUGUST 16TH.

Rose 1/4 before 5; found breakfast not out; got coffee; the wagon not coming. James Dean set off to meet the man; the portmanteau was placed on; drove rapidly down just in time. Got on board the _North America_, found many hundreds of passengers. Charged to Albany only 50 cents just what I was to pay for being brought to the steamer; an immense steamer, the Captain said 400 or 500 passengers; a much smaller number than usual. A quick way of putting out and taking in passengers: the boat is lowered, they take a long rope and steer to the landing-place, then haul in towards the steamer which scarcely stops. The rope is attached to the end of the helm, which is 4 or 5 yards wide and gives great power, and the helm is always placed in the fore part of the vessel. Saw some fish (sturgeons) jump a yard out of the water.

A piano and cradle on board. Arrived at Catskill[29] half past three; got some excellent cider and bread and butter. Set off to the mountain 1/4 past 4; a chaise near being upset. Fare 1 dollar said to be 13 miles; then a turnpike gate, and arrived at the summit at 1/4 past 8; having been in four hours in one part alternately hot and in another piercingly cold. A beautiful moonlight night; the Hudson River visible; very cold so that we sat round the fire as if it were Christmas.

SUNDAY, AUGUST 17TH.

Rose at half past six, though having rested very ill. In the middle of the night in consequence of the earache and not sleeping, went to the top of the house, and had a sublime view; we appeared to be in the midst of pine trees; the road looked quite narrow; the valley studded with fields and forests; clouds scattered here and there, and the lake glittering in the distance closing up with mountains; on the other side mountains with pines covered to the summit. During the day I had a delightful walk with a very intelligent Frenchman from Washington, to the falls, which are stupendous but short of water; the rock seems to project more than Niagara; the reason is because the upper stratum is hard and the lower soft and crumbling; then walked to the upper part of the mountain above the hotel, and then had decidedly the most magnificent view I ever saw in my life; besides these wonderful prospects there is a constant delightful breeze, so that if I had time and friends I could pass a week very well.

I consented to defer going till four, as only another person was going and he was willing to wait. It began to rain and felt cold like our English summers, and it was very well we got the views this morning, as soon after twelve the rain came on, which determined me to take the stage. Paid 3 dollars to Delhi, 65 miles, 1/2 a dollar for tea and bed. Eleven in the stage and all covered up, but my side. Had some pleasant chat with the people, more particularly an Englishman who had been several years in France. Met again my French friend. Went to bed at 8; heavy rain.

MONDAY, AUGUST 18TH.

Called up at half past one; raining very hard; only five in the stage; by slipping across got a good place; left at half past two. At five at Cairo, next stage. Ascending the mountain I got up with the driver; fair, and a very extensive view up the valley; several houses on the table part of the mountain.

Got to Wareham 1/4 before 9. Washed and shaved by borrowed tackle. A delightful drive down the mountain; many turns in the road diversifying the view; many pines dying, large tanneries. Morrisville, the last four miles rough road; got to Hobart 10 minutes after 2, most of the last 12 miles rough road; a good many saw mills on the way; the turnpike gates, a ladder let down from the house hardly sufficiently to leave head room. Not much regularity in conveying the mail owing to uncertain state of the roads. Further delay caused by not always dining at the same place. At Bloomville at 1/4 past 4; the last seven miles the valley has been widening. Arrived at Delhi 1/4 before 6. Took my place on to Green; paid 2 dollars 38 cents. Immediately passed over a considerable mountain; a very rough road and a lame horse. Got a basin of milk and a slice of bread which proved a good supper. On setting out I took my seat on the top, but was told by the driver that he had another going with him, but I did not yield, and he put a negro to drive both me and the horses, but it did not do. I was glad to have an opportunity of showing the Americans that I made no distinction.

TUESDAY, AUGUST 19TH.

Passed a very restless night in the coach. At Bainbridge made to wait nearly an hour, then to collect 4 ladies and two men, so that the stage was considered quite full. After breakfast paid 30 cents, also 75 cents for Binghampton on my way to Montrose; could not have a seat by the driver. Found a very intelligent American, he depicts divisions amongst themselves chiefly caused by the ignorant and immoral, especially the Irish; arrived at half past eleven. Paid a dollar to Montrose and set off at once; the morning and scenery delightful, and the company made me not think of sleeping. Left Binghampton at one. Crickets chirping almost at the top of the Catskill Mountains. The vehicle from Binghampton a clumsy concern, but as there was only a boy besides myself I had control over it, as if it were my own though carrying the mail. I walked up the steepest parts and now and then had a chat with the settlers. Partook of some nice blackberries, got to Montrose at 8; very fair travelling considering the mountainous paths we had come over. Find Pike 20 miles off and no stage till the day after to-morrow, so that I might as well have remained at Binghampton another day, but unless there be something interesting, I always find myself most happy when on the wing bringing me nearer home; got tea, and to bed at half past eight, in hopes of getting up the rest I had lost the two and may be the three last nights. Put away the wool from my sore.

WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 20TH.

Rose soon after seven; found no arrangements made for getting me on to Pike; resolved to go immediately in some way. Informed of a person going 13 miles on the road. At ten he came and a very sensible man I found him; said the bank had registered certain wealthy individuals improperly, and therefore the charter had been refused; this more than the removal of the deposits had injured the credit and business of the country; admitted that there was too much paper money but thought it should have been lessened gradually; Hindle & Co. should have been called to account. The President had no right to renew the deposits without consent of the Senate, and hence their displeasure; the Representatives support him on account of popularity. A most interesting account of his father who had lived 50 years in one house and unwilling to sleep from home. Had 15 children, 8 still living. At the end of 13 miles Hitchcock's saw-mill; he took me to a farmer who agreed to go on with me about 8 miles further; after travelling some time I stepped out to enquire at a house on the road side for Noah Makinson. "He lives here," I was told. Immediately Noah appeared looking much thinner and older; did not know me. One of the daughters set off to fetch her mother; in less than two hours she came with her two daughters; on entering she gazed a long time, said she did not know me, and then cried out "Is it Robert?" and almost fainted; she suffered from a difficulty of breathing but soon was better, and we chatted away the evening. A sheep was killed.

THURSDAY, AUGUST 21ST.

Rose at seven. Found Alice better than I expected considering the hurry and fatigue of yesterday, though thin and weak she has much of her old features, not so deaf as I expected; sits a good deal, often smiling. An American breakfast; coffee, beef steaks, eggs, tart and cakes like crumpet, made from buck wheat. The house not large but comfortable; a very large new barn with shippen, stable and granary and a good stock of hay. Had agreed for the same with a neighbour on the following terms, to make the hay and have one half. The house pleasantly situated on the slope of a hill on a good road; nearly 80 acres 30 chains on each side of the road; a good spring of water near the house; seven cows, two horses, pigs, geese and poultry and guinea-hens. The breakfast consists of coffee, bread and butter, eggs, beef or mutton with buck wheat cakes resembling crumpets also blackberry pies and potatoes; nearly the same at dinner, and again at supper with tea. Make their own sugar from the maple; a hole is bored into the trees; a chip placed below to guide the sap into a tub; this is done with about a hundred trees at the beginning of April; a fire place is made in the woods and the pans are hung over by means of long wooden hooks, and the sap is boiled down into sugar, a supply for the year. They make their own candles and soap, the latter from the wood ashes. Went to see many people who appear very comfortably settled. Noah surprised the family by consenting to go with us.

FRIDAY, AUGUST 22ND.

John is married and settled in Rhode Island: Ann a nice spirited girl employed in tailoring and has seen a good deal of society. Mary a most cheerful and pleasing young woman married to a young man Aery Gridley, a carpenter and also farmer, a steady active young man not too good for her. James assists his father but prefers the joiner's business; Hannah rather lusty, does a good deal in the house and also assists Ann; Martha the youngest, her spine injured in her youth, a very sly little person and says very droll things. Noah often affected when talking of old friends in England; related some grievances of the family not treating him with respect, particularly his two sons. The daughters too fond of visiting and dressing. This evening a neighbour's dog catches an animal called a woodchuck somewhat resembling a beaver; it is considered good food and indeed is to be prepared for dinner. Mary and her husband came about eight and returned about half past ten. Besides woodchucks they eat the black and grey squirrels, the yellow and striped are not liked; both are killed because they devour the grain, a large cat frequently catches them. Two horses are great favourites with all the family, the best was hurt last Christmas by a cow. They have two waggons.

SATURDAY, AUGUST 23RD.

The breakfast profuse as usual. Went to watch logs being sawn to be burned, chiefly hemlock, a species of pine; other sorts brought home for fires; went out to gather blackberries; all the neighbours very sociable and kind, particularly attentive to Alice when poorly. Nothing like stealing is known; most of the houses without a lock or bolt. Alice was first ill at the end of January, has had difficulty of breathing, but was better; at the end of April had a sort of fit that caused her to be insensible for some time; in June after severe coughing she commenced spitting blood that continued three weeks; violent palpitations of the heart, greatly relieved by digitalis that she still takes; perspires a good deal and one eye is still weaker than the other and is often running; so ill was she that her burial suit was prepared. The battlements of bridges generally coped with wood.

SUNDAY, AUGUST 24TH.

Got both horses to the waggon, and all but the two old folks set off to the Meeting House about 6 miles; rather late, found a great many other horses and waggons, also one or two better looking carriages or as we should say phaetons; there is no shed as in some places so that in winter or wet weather the horses must suffer terribly. The Minister Samuel Henderson, an Irishman, was just beginning the sermon; very orthodoxical and loud; rapped the Universalists as relying upon the mercy of God and forgetting His justice. The singing, German hymns, chiefly done by the choir. After service notice was given of the Lord's Supper, and those in the centre were requested to go to the sides to make room for the communicants; after the bread was broken it was handed to the deacons, then all arose and a prayer was delivered, the same with the wine. An urgent request that they would not bring the service into disgrace by any immoral conduct; nearly 2 when finished, therefore no service in the afternoon and went and dined at Mary's, had tea, pies, cakes and cucumbers; then a pleasant chat afterwards and a walk through the orchard; not much fruit in consequence of snow and ice on the 15th of May. On getting back, several neighbours came to sit with us and we chatted till near ten. Alice retired earlier.

MONDAY, AUGUST 25TH.

After breakfast went with James and Ann to Pike. Rode on the back of the waggon. A pleasant walk; entered one of the stores filled as usual with a great quantity of articles. Walked back with Ann who said a good deal about her father's temper. I admitted that he was often unreasonable, but as he intended the best they should bear up with it, as it might be possible that a time would come when such conduct would prove the most satisfactory. Ann said her mother was quite the contrary, pleased to see them get on and wished them to have a little company; was told that there were very few round about but what were more or less in their debt, they owed nothing; mentioned a person who has had 300 dollars of Mary's, and now had 50 belonging to Ann for which they got interest; Ann the prettiest, Mary pleasing and cheerful, Hannah lusty and good tempered, Martha a most droll piece; James appears well disposed but cannot get on with his father; this the case with one brother John but he has left home. Being the last night we had a family chat.

TUESDAY, AUGUST 26TH.