Chapter 6

Rose at six. A good night's rest having supped chiefly upon milk. A thunderstorm at four reconciled us to it, in hopes of its driving away the cholera, which after all I cannot but think is exaggerated. Took a calash with young Fred Andrews, a most intelligent child of 8 years. Went over some romantic country, and in two hours came to an open space on the side of a mountain covered with trees. Fred pointed to his grandmother; she did not know me but was greatly affected. Found Thomas engaged in a small room teaching 26 boys and girls, some coming three miles. He did not know me; but was not so much altered as I expected. His wife soon told me of T.'s irregularities which caused him to leave the school at Quebec, and they had come to this wild place to break his connections; their neighbours gone except two or three the most villainous low Irish. If she left home some of the dram sellers would fetch away hay to pay T.'s shots. After dinner T. and I set off to Beauport Lake; sailed across, caught a nice trout but no other fish, and were only allowed to use the line. A great quantity of raspberries, and there had been many strawberries. His income at one time had been 25 dollars per week. He had received 100 dollars for tuning the organ at the Cathedral.

SATURDAY, JULY 26TH.

Made arrangements for setting off to the Falls (Montmorency Falls) at six, but the rain prevented us, almost the first disappointment in all my journey. It cleared up and we set off, a party of five to the Falls; a pleasant drive with several pleasing views of the city; disappointed with the Cascade; the grass wet, and not able to get to the foot; a strong current going to a saw mill. Returned soon after twelve; walked with T. Marsden's wife to the Potters' field to see Ainsworth's grave stone, but did not find it. Then to the Citadel[21] whence I had a magnificent view though not quite clear; and descended by the tremendous staircase, 365 steps with an inclined plane to wind up stone. Crossed over the river in a four horse ferry to see the Indians settled there, but did not find them. On my return the boat had sailed and I was rowed in a canoe by three children; got to the inn a little after four. Found two pairs of stockings missing; got 2/- allowed. Paid 1-1/4 dollars for going to Montmorency. Rain as we set off to the steamboat: sailed at seven on my way home. Between 30 and 40 sat down to tea and coffee, the latter very good. Had some conversation with Mr. Livingstone; found he was a large store-keeper dealing in silks, woollens and cottons.

SUNDAY, JULY 27TH.

Very noisy people during the night, apparently great confusion and danger in passing the Rapids. Rose 1/4 past six, hazy almost the first time. Introduced by W. M. to a Mr. Buchanan a surveyor. 160 emigrants on the _Canada_, 12 unable to pay their fare, and their boxes taken as security. A heavy shower of rain cooled the air. Arrived at Montreal at half past four; saw the steamer sailing off to La Prairie though the Captain told me it did not go on Sunday evenings till five. Several of us were very anxious to be getting on to La Prairie; engaged a boat for two dollars more; had a written agreement. Very much troubled not to find the lady and her son and daughter ready for the boat; set off to meet them, came back determined to go on with Mr. Ready as it was getting late. The boatman came to tell me they were all waiting of me; got my luggage on board; a very narrow boat; found a good deal of agitation in the Rapids and the water nearly coming over, but we were all pretty experienced in sailing. On landing was surprised to find the four passengers with their luggage and four boatmen had crossed the St. Lawrence in a canoe. Two calashes were brought up, also a stage with four horses which had been sent in consequence of the steamer not waiting as they expected a signal from the _Canada_. The Captain behaved very ill, first promising to be in at four, and then telling us it did not sail till five. However, we engaged to go on to St. John's for two dollars. Arrived after twelve.

MONDAY, JULY 28TH.

Rested very well and rose at seven; a misty morning. Saw some fish, perch, etc., just taken. Sailed at six in the _Franklin_, the very nicest boat I have ever seen. A delightful morning; leaving the sick cities, Quebec and Montreal, and hastening home in good health and spirits. The Lake Champlain, only about 80 yards wide, and the shores low, covered with brushwood. Paid for passage to Ticonderoga 4-1/2 dollars. The dinner very good, five or six servants with turban caps. The dessert consisted of nuts, almonds, walnuts and raisins; all the spoons, etc., of silver; altogether the very neatest boat I ever saw. The Captain's room fitted with excellent portraits, in another part all sorts of advertisements, with a beautiful desk for the public use. Asked a dollar for a bottle of porter, then said half a dollar. Took a pint of port wine, charged one dollar; an impudent fellow with one of the waiters saw the bottle, he filled up his glass and drank it off without once looking at me. At Plattsburg on Lake Champlain an American officer came on board and allowed our portmanteaus to pass, on condition they contained only clothes. Very delightful scenery; beautiful islands with distant mountains on each side; a broad road up the mountain; an avalanche. Went on shore at Burlington and had a delightful bathe, the water pleasantly warm and a sandy slope. Quite a crowd at tea so had to attend the second course. Lay down in a berth till 12; then looked after luggage which I found to be all safely locked up; everything managed in the most admirable style; the sailors all in uniform and the boat let down with a rope, so that passengers could be landed with scarcely stopping the boat. At Ticonderoga the greatest hurry for beds; an offer made to pay for double-bedded rooms, so resigned myself to chairs: afterwards had a comfortable bedroom.

TUESDAY, JULY 29TH.

A pleasant walk before breakfast, paid 1-1/4 dollar for lodging, breakfast, and fare to Adirondack. Visited the ruined fort[22] at Ticonderoga. Changed seats with a Mr. E. Tech--arrived at the foot of Lake George at 10. Walked towards Ticonderoga and returned by water; two saws at work cutting planks; went down below the falls; the river choked with bits of wood from the saw-mills. In descending on the other side two Indian boys were fishing. The mountain is covered with pines and also with bold rocks. We were told the highest mountain took fire about two years ago, and continued in flames more than a week; the dead pines are still remaining. The latter part of the Lake more interesting; several islands.

Arrived at Caldwell a little after seven. Paid the Captain 1-1/2 dollars he not having been able to give me silver out of a 5 dollar note; he then recommended me to be cautious about notes. After much trouble about beds we had tea with old bread, butter, plenty of sweets, also whinberries, etc. At length I prevailed upon a party to leave early and breakfast at Glen Falls. Went to bed before nine.

WEDNESDAY, JULY 30TH.

Rose half past four. Took a seat with the conductor, found it very cool, a wonderful contrast since yesterday. The road very sandy; passed a place where the stage had been upset last night. Got to Glen Falls on the Hudson a little after seven; walked down before breakfast to a little Niagara; it looked very well rushing over the black rock, the river being very considerable. Hazel nuts most abundant. The ride very delightful. Reached Saratoga before 12, according to written agreement being 4-1/2 hours, though only 17 miles. Stopped at Congress Hall Hotel to see as much as possible of the fashionable world; dined at two; 150 to 170 passengers, many with their servants, and some of the gentlemen had their wine cooling in ice-water; some very pretty ladies, and gentlemen rather better looking than ordinary. Purchased a copy of the "American Traveller" for 1-1/2 dollars. Some good singing by a gentleman, also some ladies played very well; afterwards went to a ball at the United States Hotel; saw some curious dancing, whirling one another round very fast. At a loss to find my room No. 156.

THURSDAY, JULY 31ST.

Could not sleep after five in consequence of the noise of visitors leaving. Took a walk to the well, drank some water and bought a ring. Left by the railway half past nine; the seat I had was taken by a gentleman who moved, but was revenged by getting a lady to take the place, so I mounted aloft; the breeze was pleasant. Leaving Ballston the carriage ran off the rail, which caused a concussion and seemed like to have squeezed our legs hanging down before; also a disagreeable passage over and under the bridges at Schenectady; on the river Mohawk the same on landing; an interesting but perilous journey, drawn by horses and engine; wound up one place by a stationary engine. Some deep ridges cut through and rather filled up. Arrived at Albany at one. Met with an interesting young Englishman. Paid to Boston 6 dollars. Walked to the river and bought a sweet apple and looked at a pig weighing 1400 lbs. unable to get up without assistance. Visited a planing and grooving mill, the dust from it must make the business very unhealthy; then a grand Baptist Church with six noble columns all of wood; then the Capitol or State House, and the City Hall[23], whence I had a magnificent view of the city and river Hudson. After tea visited a plane manufactory. Many birds, yellow like the canary. Went to bed at 8-1/2.

FRIDAY, AUGUST 1ST.

Called up at half past twelve to join the stage, and dragged up and down the streets collecting passengers at different inns. Forced to go by another route than had been intended. The stage quite full and two with the driver; one next me pushed me and said he did it more on account of a lady near him: I said nothing, but pushed again; breakfast passed rather sullenly; on returning and finding one of the passengers had left, I said I hoped he found room without pushing; and told him in his regard for the lady, he had not forgotten himself. After this we had a good deal of pleasant conversation. A good deal of white marble cut into slabs for gravestones. At Stockbridge a saw-mill; seven saws going at once. Breakfasted at Seddon, paid 37-1/2 cents for some poor coffee and tough chicken. Dined at Beckett, good pie and pudding with milk 37-1/2 cents. One sixth of the way passed in the dark, 1/6th hilly and sheep land, with now and then a garden and better farms, 2/6ths mountainous and forest, 2/6ths still nicer, farming, great neatness and still better fencing. Passed a long bridge over the river Connecticut, and arrived at Springfield at half past seven P.M.; though only stopping till three in the morning I was shown into the best room I have been in in America. Noticed a hawk flying with a snake in its beak. Went to bed at eight. Paid only 62 cents for tea and a very good and spacious room.

SATURDAY, AUGUST 2ND.

Rose at seven and breakfasted on nothing good but eggs. Passed manufactures of cotton and woollen. Arrived at Worcester at half past one; the neatest town I have ever seen; every house appeared to be newly painted white, and with very pretty gardens. The road afterwards hilly with uneven places where the water gets off the road; the last twenty miles more even; a good part of the way from Albany is stony, and hence there are more walls; in many places the stones are too large to remove and the smaller ones are piled upon them in heaps. I got up to sit with the driver after breakfast, but was forced in by the sun; it became cloudy, and I mounted again, and remained out till the last four miles when it became much colder and was nearly dark. The two last stages, and one yesterday were twenty miles. Both days have been highly favourable, not meeting dust and what there was carried away by the wind. Arrived at Boston half past eight; could not get tea at this great house--took milk and bread.

SUNDAY, AUGUST 3RD.

Rose before seven; after breakfast read the paper and then set out for Dr. Channing's Chapel. Found that he was at Newport, Rhode Island, during the summer and only preaching occasionally during the winter. His colleague Mr. Gannett was gone to an Ordination at Buffalo. Mr. Furniss of Philadelphia was to preach. I set off to hear Mr. Greenwood at King's Chapel. He read a form of prayer and a stranger preached from Matthew v; but a poor sermon. Mr. G. read the service of the Lord's Supper; after kneeling, he partook of the bread and wine, then distributed the elements to the communicants, all was very earnestly done at the altar. At the door I was glad to see black women permitted. In the afternoon I went to hear a Mr. Lothrop and was again disappointed, but was pleased by a Mr. Young who preached a discourse on "Faith" from John 20 chap. 29 v., mentioned Columbus. Much pleased by a plain and simple address to the Sunday scholars by Mr. Grant. All the three places of worship very nice buildings; the galleries not wide and supported by double pillars, good organ and good singing but not much joined in by the congregation; well attended, but hardly by any poor persons. In the evening went to hear a Mr. Taylor who had been a sailor. His text Exodus v, verse 2.

MONDAY, AUGUST 4TH.

Got up at six and walked through the Mall, and into the State House and returned to breakfast. Met with a plain and respectable Englishman. Called upon Mr. John Lee, a very respectable old gentleman 76 years old, chatted half an hour and agreed to meet again at three. Returned to the Hotel and ordered a gig for Mount Vernon Church. It came without driver and I had to drive and thread my way through the city. Passed over Cambridge 7810 feet long, walked up and down the cemetery which is superior in locality to Pere la Chaise at Paris, but has not the commanding view. In one part a great many beautiful flowers. The monuments have usually the family name and the Christian name on another side of the obelisk; a truly melancholy walk; a beautiful monument to the memory of Spurzheim[24]. I allowed the horse to have his own way back and he brought me at once near the hotel. At three I called upon Mr. Lee and we had a delightful walk to the wharf and stores; a magnificent range of buildings. Saw a contrivance for hauling ships to be repaired; the machinery turned by horses. Passed over a long wooden bridge to Bunker Hill; from the Monument[25], partly built, we had a fine view of the town, and returned over another bridge. Invited to take tea with Mr. Lee, but excused myself on account of writing a letter to Mr. B. on which I was engaged all evening. Left it in the care of Mrs. Livingstone.

TUESDAY, AUGUST 5TH.

Rose before six, got café au lait at my request. Found the Lowell stage would soon be here; though a mail coach it goes up and down collecting passengers; this enabled me to see more of the town; more than an hour in getting out of it. Took a seat with the driver and though a very hot day found a breeze when in motion; the last fourteen miles, partly a sandy road, we had six horses. Saw three hop plantations; arrived at Lowell at eleven; took my return at two. Went straight to the carpet manufactory but found strangers not admitted; at length I was introduced to the manager, a Scotchman, upon my assuring him that I was in no way connected with such business he took me through the spinning and weaving rooms; a beautiful shearing machine, also the winding effected the same way, the carpets woven by cards as the bed quilts in England; the Brussels from bobbins with weights attached to each thread and tumbling over wires introduced. The rugs done by locks of coloured thread tied into the warp, and then hemp or wadding driven up by the lathe. So extremely hot that I remained in the first shade I came to till near two o'clock. Very many handsome-sized cotton factories, the machinery all turned by the river Merrimack. Work begins at five, then 1/2 hour for breakfast, 3/4 of an hour for dinner, stopping at seven, making 12-3/4 hours each day, and Saturdays the same; the boys and men well dressed, the girls and women in neat gowns and hoods. The bells larger and of different tones as if for worship. The coach promised for two, did not arrive so I came off in another and got to Boston at half past seven. Paid for fare both ways 2-1/2 dollars. This has been one of the most disagreeable hot dusty days I have experienced. Found a letter this morning from James Dean.

WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 6TH.

Rose a little before 6, took a glass of milk, walked to the bath; found it a dirty poor concern, not more than half a yard deep as the tide was out. Called at Mr. Lee's, found his son from England who was kind enough to walk with me in the town. We went off to the Athenaeum which is well stored with books. Saw the English Statutes presented by the British Government; then into the News Room at the Exchange; then to the dry dock, a substantial handsome dock; then to the machine shop where they were making blocks, etc. Saw a large ship the _Columbus_ on the stocks, also the _Constitution_[26] with Jackson's head cut off; then to the prison where they are occupied in masonry, shoe-making, tailoring, brush-making and cabinet work; the prisoners are not suffered to speak; and they eat their food in their cells. Dined with Mr. Lee: delicious lemonade: several dined within, supposed boarders. Set off to Nahant at 3; a beautiful sail among the numerous islands, saw ten seals on a sandbank. Arrived at 4-1/2, a bold rocky coast; the water dashing between the cliffs. A dispute with another steamer, ours turned about to sternward to get a landing by running between, but the other shied off and prevented a collision. Got back half past seven; a beautiful vine (Isabella) only six years planted and many hundred of branches. Also a Black Hamburgh two years planted and bearing. Took leave of this interesting family, particularly the old gentleman, 76 years of age and quite cheerful; the son resides at Birmingham and I may see him again. On getting to Tremont House I asked for a glass of milk, but was disappointed, it having been drank up. Got a letter from Mr. Lee to Dr. Channing; after getting to bed the fire bells began ringing all over the city.

THURSDAY, AUGUST 7TH.

Rose at five; at breakfast, beefsteak but no milk, so I took black tea cooled down, and diluted by iced water. Another fine morning; mounted the roof of the coach, nearly half way, but it was so warm that I went within. The road very dusty but luckily the wind was favourable; the land poor and stony, good fences on each side of the road; several small factories on the way. Pawtucket an active pleasant town. Arrived in Providence at twelve. Went in the coach to the steamboat, returned to Franklin Hotel; set off to inquire for the Cunliffes. Walked up after dinner; learned that Joseph resided 17 miles off but that he was in town; could not meet with him. William lives about five miles off, and I should have gone to see him but it was so excessively hot that I durst not venture. Bought a pair of cotton stockings for 12 cents, put them on immediately; had another wash, found general perspiration excepting my feet which at some time would have been alarming; lay comfortably on the sofa, fell asleep till six; drank two cups of tea and two glasses of milk with a quantity of huckleberries. Some interesting Jacksonian discussion introduced by one of the gentlemen to the News Room. Took a pleasant walk, much cooler; generally admitted to have been the hottest day they have had; walked along the river, a great number of boys bathing, jumping head foremost from a raft covered with shingles. Found a steamboat leaves every morning for Newport, swallowed another glass of milk and went to bed at nine. The cars eight yards long.

FRIDAY, AUGUST 8TH.

Rose soon after six; walked through the market and up to the mill, whence I had a good view of the hill. Walked into a new chapel building for the Academy. Breakfast at half past seven: on further enquiry for William Cunliffe, a man with a small wagon said he was going that way if I could wait half an hour. Whilst waiting at a store, I saw a curious fly trap consisting of two thin boards with hinges, the inside lined with treacle then suddenly pressed together. Got out of the wagon and walked about a mile, found William and his son George; I was known by the latter but not by his father; walked into the house just by, took some cider then walked into the mill; found the machinery good, about 100 pieces turned out weekly. Then went and bathed, most delightfully warm; then dined on salt beef; took a walk over a beautiful ridge, eating huckleberries and blackberries. Got into William's chariot and drove to his daughter living near by. She was gone into the wood but was sent for, and I saw four generations. The daughter very kindly enquired after my mother; they pressed me to stop for tea, but we drove on and just got into Providence before dark. Could not feel easy to leave without seeing Joseph, so fixed to take a gig and George was to go with me. Walked to the Newport steamboat and found it sailing at 7 on the Sunday morning. W. Cunliffe looking better and much lustier; seems very well off and happy with his family. Makes 2000 dollars clear profit.

SATURDAY, AUGUST 9TH.

Rose at six. Found G. C. waiting with a horse and gig (to go to visit Joseph); set off 1/4 before seven, arrived soon after 10, above 18 miles: some parts sandy. A neat looking mill. I was quite unknown to G.'s wife and sister, but they were very glad to see me; and spoke much of my father. Joseph came soon after, looking old and quiet, but did not know me and seemed less affected. Walked through the mill which I fear is not doing much good; it is leased, and 2/3rds of the machinery is George's; it is not filled with looms and is short of water; also there is the expense of a manager which should be done by the sons. Poor quiet Joseph should have taken his brother's advice, put his money out to interest and with two houses at Providence he might have been comfortable. Five children, all at home. Left at three and called at a cotton mill about three miles off, and found John Makinson, Noah's eldest son, superintendent, married about a year ago to a pleasant sort of girl, that had worked with and known the family; the house well furnished; she set to and baked bread for tea, this caused us to be later than we intended. Was glad to learn that his mother was still living though she had lately had another stroke. Told that John and Ann the two oldest had not behaved so well to their parents, but was pleased to find a change in John's views. The last hour was driven in the dark, thereby reminding me of my late dear father, but the horse was a very good one and arrived safe. Found George's father had been waiting some time, paid 3-1/2 dollars. Bought two other pairs of socks. G. C.'s wife not well, and out of spirits; she seems aware that the concern is not doing well. Saw a snake crossing the road.

SUNDAY, AUGUST 10TH.