Part 45

The Pilgrims being return’d to _Mecca_, divide themselves in several Caravans, because of the different countries they come from, and are to go back to them again. The Caravan that met at _Damascus_, upon their return pass by _Medina_, and visit _Mahomet_’s tomb, seeing it is upon their road. Of the rest, those who are prompted by devotion go thither, but a great part return back to their several countries, without turning out of their way to visit the said sepulchre, their law not obliging them to that, as it does to visit the other places above mention’d; so that they are grosly mistaken, who have affirm’d, that the pilgramage of the _Turks_ is to the sepulchre of _Mahomet_, who oblig’d them to it. For that false Prophet told his followers, when he drew near his death, that if any one returning from _Mecca_, had the curiosity to come and see his sepulchre, he should say a _Fatha_ for his soul (which is a prayer taken out of the _Koran_, resembling in some manner our _Pater Noster_) and be gone. _Mecca_ is the place of _Mahomet_’s birth, _Medina_ of his burial.

_An Extract of a Journey thro’ part of ~Arabia Felix~, from the copy in ~Ramusio~’s collection._

We travell’d in most places of _Arabia_ by the help of a compass, and were forty days and forty nights in going between _Damascus_ and _Mecca_; port _Ziden_ is forty miles distant from _Mecca_, from whence it receives the greatest part of it’s provisions by the Red Sea, from _Egypt_, _Æthiopia_, and _Arabia Felix_, the numbers of Pilgrims and camels being incredible, and fresh water very scarce, and as dear as wine in _Europe_.

I stole away secretly from _Mecca_ in the disguise of a _Mammaluck_, to _Ziden_, in order to pass round _Arabia_ by sea into _Persia_. _Ziden_ contains about 500 houses; there lay at anchor almost 100 brigantines and foysts, with divers barks of sundry sorts, both with and without oars. After six days sailing we came to _Gezan_, a fair commodious port full of vessels; the soil is very fruitful and delicious, abounding with many rare fruits and flowers; the inhabitants for the most part go naked. Leaving _Gezan_, in the space of five or six days, we reach’d an island named _Camaran_, ten miles in circuit; in it is a town of 200 houses, the inhabitants are _Mahometans_; it hath great store of flesh and fresh water; the haven is eight miles from the continent, and is subject to the Sultan of _Arabia Felix_. In two days sailing we came to the mouth of the Red Sea.

The day after our arrival at _Aden_, I being suspected for a _Portuguese_ spy, was cast into heavy chains, and thrown into Prison: After fifty five days Imprisonment, I was set upon a camel with my shackles, and in eight days journey came to _Rhada_, a city where the Sultan then lay with 30000 men, to make war against the Sultan of _Sana_ three days distant from _Rhada_. The Sultan’s guard were _Æthiopians_, with short broad swords, painted targets and darts, slings and ropes made of cotton. Having obtained my liberty, I pass’d through _Almacaran_ and _Laghi_, to _Aden_, where I embark’d for _Persia_.

In this journey I observed many monkeys, lyons, sheep with prodigious great tails; variety of spices, sugars, and a sort of grape without stones, very delicious; many strange gum-trees, as the Balsam, the Myrrhe, Frankincense, Coffee, Cocoes, _&c._

_Some observations made by Sir ~Henry Middleton~ and other ~Englishmen~, in ~Arabia Felix~, when they were most treacherously seized, and led prisoners from ~Moha~ and ~Aden~ up to ~Zenan~. Also Captain ~Payton~’s and Captain ~Heyn~’s observations in some parts of ~Arabia Felix~._

We were fifteen days in going from _Moha_ to _Zenan_, which is about 180 miles distant N. N. W. it lies in 16 degrees and 15 min. Lat. We were carried about our Christmass-time, and were almost starved with cold, there being hoary frosts and ice at _Zenan_; some of our men got furrs, this was wonderful in such a latitude; we fed much upon _Dates_ and _Plantanes_.

_Zenan_ appeared to me bigger than _Bristol_, it’s situation is in a stony valley, encompass’d with high hills, with many gardens and places of pleasure. The buildings are of good stone and lime.

_February_ the seventeenth, we obtain’d our liberty, and began on the eighteenth our journey from _Zenan_ to _Moha_; that night we came to _Siam_, 16 miles, some on asses, others on camels; on the nineteenth to _Surage_, 18 miles; on the twentieth to the city _Damare_, in a plentiful country 20 miles from _Surage_; on the twenty first we arrived at _Ermin_, 15 miles, here we staid the twenty second; on the twenty third we came to _Nagual Samare_; the twenty fourth to _Mohader_, 13 miles from _Nackelsamar_; on the twenty fifth to _Rabattamain_, 16 miles from _Mohader_; here they make opium of a poppy, but it is not good. The twenty sixth we came to _Coughe_, call’d _Meisadine_, 16 miles from _Rabattamain_. On the twenty seventh we were at _Tayes_, half as large as _Zenan_, here they make _Indigo_ out of an herb. _March_ the first, we travell’d from _Tayes_ to _Eufras_, 16 miles distant; the second to _Assambine_ 11 miles; on the third to _Accomoth_; on the fourth to _Mousa_, 17 miles; here we observed them steeping the _Indigo_ plant; on the fifth we got to _Moha_.

_Moha_ is less than _Tayes_, but very populous, it stands close by the sea in a salt and sandy soil, unwall’d; yet it hath platforms and forts; abundance of shipping resort thither from _India_, and great Caravans by land from _Syria_ and _Mecca_, to trade and exchange commodities.

_Aden_ is the greatest port of _Arabia Felix_, it is situated at the foot of vast high mountains, which rise up with pikes, and run with great promontories into the sea; these hills were call’d _Cabubarre_, according to the journal of Don _John_ of _Castro_ the _Portuguese_. Captain _Dunton_, of Sir _Henry Middleton_’s fleet, observed _Aden_ to lie in 12° 35′ of N. Lat. The variation westerly was 12° 40′. It flows upright between 6 and 7 foot water on the change day. The canoes came about the _English_ ships with _Indigo_, _Olibanum_, and _Myrrhe_, but none trade with them by reason of their treachery. _Aden_ has been a great city of above 6000 houses, but Captain _Dunton_ found the buildings much decay’d, and many of them sunk. Captain _Sharpeigh_ was the first _Englishman_ that ever landed at _Aden_, he had been there 16 months before, in the year 1610.

The afore-mention’d parts of _Arabia Felix_ were at that time under the subjection of the _Turks_, who had got possession of them from the _Arabians_, by tricks and treachery, whom they kept in awe by many castles built on hills and passes, and by the many captives they always kept as pledges. Sir _Henry Middleton_ observed many of the mountainous parts to be under the dominion of the _Arabians_, who are very populous in all the places where he passed, and are at frequent wars with the insolent _Turks_, who pretended secret orders from the Grand Signior, to destroy all Christians that came ashore, lest they should go up to _Mecca_ and _Medina_, to ransack and burn them.

Capt. _Walter Payton_, in the year 1613, found great hospitality and ingenuity in some parts of _Arabia Felix_, nearer the _Persian_ gulph, especially at _Doffar_, a very good road for ships, and a fair city, where the _Arabians_ presented his crew with bullocks, sheep, hens, goats, sugar-canes, plantanes and cocoes. This _Cape_ stands in 16° 38′ of N. Lat. and is free from the _Turkish_ yoke.

Capt. _Edward Heyns_ anchored before _Moha_ or _Mocha_, in _Arabia Felix_, _An. Dom. 1618_, the governor sent him, as presents, a young bullock, two goats, mangoes, limes, cucumbers, water-melons, quinces, rack made of rice, _&c._ He went freely ashore, and found it a very neat, populous and flourishing town, built of brick and stone, curiously plaister’d over like _Paris_, two stories high with flat roofs and terrasses on the top, whereon they build summer-houses with canes and matts, wherein they sleep and receive the fresh breezes in the great heats. They excus’d the cruelty to Sir _H. Middleton_, laying it on the cruel governor at that time.

_Of the ways and roads between ~Egypt~ and ~Ethiopia~._

In the month of _October_ an embassador of _Ethiopia_ came to _Cairo_, with several presents for the Grand Signior, and among others an ass that had a most delicate skin, if it was natural, for I will not vouch for that, since I did not examine it. This ass had a black list down the back, and the rest of it’s body was all begirt with white and tawny streaks, a finger broad a piece; the head of it was extraordinary long, striped and partly colour’d as the rest of the body; it’s ears like a buffle’s, were very wide at the end, and black, yellow, and white; it’s legs streaked just like the body, not long ways, but round the leg, in fashion of a garter, down to the foot, and all in so good proportion and simetry, that no lynx could be more exactly spotted, nor any skin of a tyger so pretty, this may be the _Zembra_. The embassador had two more such asses, which dy’d by the way, but he brought their skin with him, to be presented to the Grand Signior, with the live one. He had also several little black slaves of _Nubia_, and other countries, confining on _Ethiopia_, _Civet_, and other costly things for his present. These little blacks serve to look after the women in the Seraglio, after that they are gelded. The embassador was an old man, and had the end of his nose, part of the upper and under lip cut off, but was otherwise a shapely man, and of a very good presence; he was cloathed after the _Coptish_ fashion, wearing a turban like them, and spoke very good _Italian_, which gave me the opportunity of conversing with him; he told me his name was _Michael_, that he was a native of _Tripoly_ in _Syria_, and that he had made three or four voyages into Christendom; that eighteen months before he had parted from _Gontar_, the capital city of _Ethiopia_, and was so long retarded by the way, because of the contrary winds he met with on the Red Sea, by which he came. That of an hundred persons whom he had brought along with him, of his own servants, and the slaves he was to present to the Grand Signior, thirty or forty were dead. If he had come by land, he had not been so long by the way; for from _Gontar_ to _Schouaquen_ it is about six weeks journey, and from _Schouaquen_ to _Cairo_ forty or fifty days by camels; but he could not take that way because of his train. He told me many things relating to the kingdom of _Ethiopia_, which I shall here give the reader an account of.

But first, of the ways of passing out of _Egypt_ into _Ethiopia_. The Merchants setting out from Grand _Cairo_, are carry’d up the _Nile_ against the stream, as far as _Monfallot_, and thence travelling in Caravans, first come to _Siint_, and so in order to the following towns: _Wack_ three days journey; _Meks_ two days; _Scheb_ three; _Sellim_ three; _Moschu_ five; _Dungala_ five, accounted to be the Metropolis of _Nubia_, then they come into the kingdom of _Sennar_; from _Dungala_ they travel to _Kshabi_, three days journey; _Korti_ three more; _Trere_ three; _Gerry_ one; _Helfage_ one; _Arbatg_ three; _Sennar_ four; from _Sennar_ in fourteen days they arrive at the confines of _Habessinia_, the entrance is call’d _Tshelga_. The passage by sea is various, for the Merchants embark in several ports on the Red Sea, as _Suesso_, _Gidda_, _Alcossir_, and so coast it to _Suaquena_ and _Matzua_. The safest way of travelling into the kingdom of _Prester John_, is with some metropolitan or embassador. Some land at _Baylar_, a port belonging to the King of _Dengala_, in amity with the _Habessins_, but the journey thence by land is tedious, and infested by the _Gallons_. ’Tis but three months travel by land from Grand _Cairo_ to _Gontar_, the chief city of _Ethiopia_.

_Of ~Ethiopia~: By ~Michael~ of ~Tripoly~, Embassador from the ~Habessine~ Emperor to the Grand Signior._

_Ethiopia_, or the country of the _Abyssins_, called in _Arabic Abesch_, from whence comes the word _Abyssin_, is a great empire, being above seven months travel in circuit: On the east side it is bordered by the Red Sea, and _Zanguebar_, on the south with _Zeila_, _Avousa_, _Naria_, _&c._ On the west by the country of the _Negroes_ and _Nubia_, and on the north, with the country of _Nubia_ and _Bugia_, because to come from _Ethiopia_ into _Egypt_, one must cross _Nubia_ down the _Nile_. About an hundred years ago, _Greyu Mahomet_, King of _Zeila_, of which the inhabitants are all _Moors_, invaded _Ethiopia_, and forced the King to save himself on a mountain, from whence he sent to demand assistance of the King of _Portugal_, who immediately sent it him, but hardly was he who commanded these auxiliaries enter’d the country, when he resolved to return back again, finding that they eat raw flesh there: However, his brother Don _Christopher_ had more courage, and would not return without doing some exploit: He marched up into the country with about three hundred musqueteers, fought, vanquished, and killed the _Moorish_ King, and then re-established the lawful King of _Ethiopia_: For reward of which service, the King of _Ethiopia_ gave lands and estates to all the _Portuguese_ that staid within his dominions, and their offspring are still in that country. The father of this present King was a Catholic, but he dying about thirty odd years ago, the Queen his wife, who was a great enemy to the _Jesuits_, and no Catholic, and who suffered impatiently, that they should govern, as they pleased, the late King her husband, wrought upon her son that succeeded him, to persecute all the _Roman_ Catholics, in such a manner, that the _Jesuits_ were obliged to make their escape, and he put to death all the Capuchins whom he found. Since that time, three Capuchins more were put to death at _Schouaken_; for the King of _Ethiopia_ knowing that they had a mind to come into his kingdom, sent to the Governor of _Schouaken_ praying him to put to death those three religious _Franks_. The Governor of _Schouaken_, caused their heads to be immediately struck off, and sent them to the King of _Ethiopia_, who, as a reward, made him a present of three bags of gold dust, promising him as many bags of gold dust, as he should send him heads of _Franks_. And fifteen or sixteen years since, two others have been put to death in the province of _Oinadaga_, whose names were Father _Fioravanti_, and Father _Francesco_. In short, this King is a declared enemy to all _Franks_, whom he accuses of being heretics, and of having conspired to put the crown upon the head of one of his enemies: So that a _Frank_ who would go into that country, must pass for an _Armenian_ or _Cophte_, for the King and his people are of the _Cophtish_ Religion. They believe but one nature in _Jesus Christ_. At the end of eight days they circumcise as the _Jews_ do, and baptize a fortnight after. Before the _Jesuits_ went thither, they baptized none before they were thirty or forty years of age. They say mass as the _Cophtes_ do, but their church books are in the _Ethiopic_ language. Their Patriarch depends on the Patriarch of _Alexandria_, and when the Patriarch of the _Abyssines_ dies, they send deputies to _Alexandria_, to entreat the Patriarch to send them another, and he convocating his Clergy, chuses out the fittest among them, whom he sends, but is never any more heard of in _Egypt_, till he be dead.