Part 31

_First_, That upon his conscience he do swear there to these following words, Not with a false heart, but that he doth confess out of zeal, with great eagerness, and with a clean heart, and also swear by God’s Omnipotence, the See of _Rome_, and his Holiness the Pope, that he is a good Catholic, educated in that religion from his infancy to that present hour; and that he never will go from it so long as he liveth, but will always defend and protect the _Roman_ church against the _Lutheran_, and their adherents, with words and deeds, so long as his heart is warm; and that he will never be in a place where any evil is taught, or spoke of his Holiness the Pope. _Secondly_, That he doth swear by God’s Omnipotence, and the Pope at _Rome_, and the Cross of _Jerusalem_, that he is a nobleman in the fifth generation, both by Father and Mother. _Thirdly_, He sweareth also, that he hath so good income that he need not to follow merchandizing, or any other trade, nor to borrow money, or to ask others for help, but that he hath so much that he can live upon his revenues, and keep three horses besides from year to year, for the service of the church of _Rome_; nay, if necessity should urge, and others should rise against the _Roman_ church to molest it, that he will then always be willing and ready, besides the three horses, to assist her with all his utmost power. He must also promise that he will so long as he shall live, diligently attend at Mass, and hear four or five every day, and also that he will keep the fasts zealously, and eat neither flesh, nor butter, nor cheese, nor eggs, on them; and also that he will confess and receive the Sacrament once a month, or every six weeks at farthest, and send his family at least once a year in Lent-time to do the same. And also that he will not forget, to the honour and encrease of the said church, to remember her in his last will; that he will protect and provide for the widows and fatherless; that he will maintain the Friers and Nuns, and their monasteries; and if by the Seculars any thing should be taken away from them, that he will not conceal it, but endeavour to the utmost of his power, as if it were his own, to recover it again. That he will assist those that would willingly turn _Roman_ Catholics, and endeavour to bring them over; but that he will keep none in his service, nor any ways assist them that do not firmly adhere unto it. Then there is also inserted, That he will say forty nine _Pater-Nosters_ and as many _Ave-Marias_ every day, and visit his Holiness the Pope once a year, and come into the seven church processions and perform his office; and also assist at the Sacraments and other ceremonies with due reverence; and also respect and honour the holy water. At length, to conclude, he is forbid to talk idly, to be drunk, to live loosely, and to commit sodomy, that he, being knighted, may not lead a disorderly life, and give to others ill example.

When then the Guardian hath read the oaths that are written upon parchment out of the book, the Chevallier kneeleth down again, and when he bendeth his face down, and leaneth with both his arms on the book, which lieth on the altar-stone of the Sepulchre, the Guardian bids the Friers and Monks again to pray; then he draweth out the sword, and maketh with the flat side of it three crosses upon his head and shoulders, saying: At the command of God, and the See of _Rome_, and for the encrease of the church of _Rome_, I create you _N. N._ now a member of the Roman church, a Knight, in the name of the _Father, Son, and Holy Ghost_. And farther he adds: That in the room of his Holiness the Pope of _Rome_, he doth absolve him of all his sins; and that he doth also give him leave, and command him, by the oath he hath taken to his Holiness the Pope, to wear the usual red cross, as a sign whereby he may be known, publickly in his coat of arms, and on his cloaths. Also if he please, to put him in mind, as often as he shall look upon it, what he hath sworn, and to keep it the firmer. When all this is over, and they have pray’d again, the Guardian wisheth him joy of his Knighthood, and rejoyceth with the whole convent that he is come to this acknowledgement, and is become a true member of the _Roman Catholic_ church: that he and all his brethren will always pray for his long life, and that God may keep him in health, to the comfort of the See of _Rome_. Immediately approach to him all the Monks, while he is still standing in his ornaments, and call him Brother; and when they have also wish’d him joy one after the other, the Guardian beginneth the _Te Deum_, &c. and then he taketh all the ornaments away again from him. Afterwards he leadeth him about with the Vicar in procession to the holy places, to invest him also in every one of them; when that is done they go to dinner.

Altho’ in former years every body was not presently admitted (as you may see by what hath been here before-said) except he were a Nobleman for several generations; yet in our time it is come to that pass, that they admit every body to it without any strict examination, that can pay the money, which amounts to eleven or twelve ducats. Nay, every Pilgrim that doth intend to take upon him that Knighthood, doth pray and persuade his companions by the way that they would do the same, that he may in case of necessity still have some friends to assist him, for his Holiness wants champions, because he taketh upon him the Civil Government as well as the Ecclesiastick, that when they can defend and prove their religion no longer by Scripture, they may defend and uphold it by power and strength of arms. Now as the Guardian, according to ancient custom, gives attestates to every Pilgrim concerning their pilgrimage, under his great Seal, that they may have it to shew, so he giveth also one to the Knight of the Order of St _John_ of _Jerusalem_, and bids them to carry the letter themselves in person to _Rome_, to shew it to the Pope. This is sufficient of the temple of mount _Calvaria_, and it’s holy places, and the Christians that are dwelling there, of their chapels, and of their errors.

CHAP. XXI.

_A short description of some Places, Hills, Valleys, &c. that lye near and about ~Jerusalem~. Of the mount of ~Olives~, and it’s holy places._

I having hitherto briefly described the situation of _Jerusalem_, and also related what buildings and holy places are still in being, and to be seen there, after it hath sustain’d so many wars, assaults and desolations, I cannot but speak of some adjacent places before I conclude. And so I begin with the mount of Olives, which lieth towards the east before the Temple-hill, over-against the Sheeps-gate, on the other side of the brook of _Cedron_, as the holy Prophet _Zachariah_ xiv. 4. testifieth, when he saith, ‘And his feet shall stand in that day upon the mount of _Olives_, which is before _Jerusalem_ on the east.’ This mount is about a quarter of a league, or as St _Luke_ saith, A Sabbath day’s journey, distant from _Jerusalem_, pretty high, rough and stony, full of pleasant Olive-trees, from whence it hath it’s name, and also others; as Fig-trees, Lemon, and Orange, and Citron, and _Siliqua_-trees, by the inhabitants call’d _Charnubi_, Turpentine-trees, and Palm-trees; the like I have seen but few, _&c._ There are also some good herbs, _viz._ a strange _Origanum_, _Tragoriganum_, _Roman Mother of Time_, _Spicanardi_ and a peculiar sort of _Coniza_, &c.

At the foot of the mount they shew us first a great church, between the rivulet _Cedron_ and the valley of _Josaphat_, which was so cover’d with earth, that you could see nothing of it but the entry, and before it without a large place three steps deep. This church was build by Queen _Helena_, mother of _Constantine_ the Emperor, and call’d, the Sepulchre of our Lady the Mother of God; to go into it, you must go down forty four steps. Within it towards the right, there is a small chapel, where they say our Lady was buried; and therefore, by the benevolence of the Pope, there is distributed and given to the Pilgrims, full forgiveness of all transgressions and punishments for ever. Some are of opinion, that this church did formerly stand even with the ground, and that after the devastation of _Jerusalem_, when part of the valley of _Josaphat_ was fill’d up, it was cover’d thus over. This church stands (as _Nicephorus_ saith in his eighth book and the thirtieth chapter) on that place where the village _Gethsemane_ stood, whereby the garden was whither our dear Lord Christ did, just before his passion, go with his eleven disciples, after he had eaten the Paschal Lamb with them, and given thanks, according to his usual custom, over the rivulet _Cedron_, to regain us that which was formerly lost by our ancestors in the garden. There he left his eight disciples, while he went to pray, as the Scripture tells us; when he took with him _Peter_, _James_ and _John_, the two sons of _Zebedeus_, and began to mourn, to quake, and to tremble, and said to them, ‘My soul is sorrowful unto death, stay here, watch with me, and pray that you enter not into temptation;’ and he withdrew from them about a stones cast, where he kneeled down, fell three times on his face, and pray’d to his heavenly Father, where he wrestled with death, and sweat a bloody sweat, so that an angel must come down from heaven at last to comfort him. This place is underneath a great rock that hangeth over a great cave, just at the entry of the valley of _Josaphat_.

This valley is still, where it cometh down from the mount of _Olives_, pretty deep, and is call’d by the holy Prophet _Joel_, chap. iii. 14, _the valley of Judgment_; which words of _Joel_ give us to understand, that the Lord, as he was (when he first came upon the earth) in this valley taken prisoner, bound and carry’d away to the place of his bitter suffering, crucifixion and dying, so he shall in his second and glorious coming, appear in this valley of _Judgment_ again to judge all people of the whole earth, _&c._ that then the impious shall see whom they have pierced. _Zacharias_ speaks also of it in the above-mention’d place.

As you go from thence to the mount of _Olives_, you see below towards your left hand, near unto the bridge of the river _Cedron_, an old square building like unto a steeple. This altho’ it is believed to this day not only by Christians, but also by _Turks_ and _Moors_, to be the grave of _Absalom_, as you shall see them sling stones into it as they go by, to revenge his undutifulness shewn to his father King _David_, yet notwithstanding he was not bury’d there, as we read in the second book of _Samuel_ xviii. 17. ‘And they took _Absalom_ and cast him into a great pit in the wood, and laid a very great heap of stones upon him.’ Yet for all this, when _Absalom_ was alive (as you may farther read in the before-mention’d chapter) he erected a column in the king’s dale, for he said, ‘I have no son, therefore this shall be for a remembrance of my name,’ and call’d this pillar after his name; and it is still call’d to this day _Absalom_’s place. Of this pillar writes also _Josephus_ in the seventh book of his Antiquities and the tenth chapter, saying, And _Absalom_ did erect a kingly column of marble in the valley (_Genes._ xiv. it is call’d the King’s valley) that is two furlongs from _Jerusalem_. Just by this pillar beginneth a very steep foot-path, which parts a little above it into two, one whereof goeth southward, at the bottom of the mount of Olives towards _Bethania_ and _Jericho_, &c. down thro’ the valley that is made by this and the other part of the hill, call’d _Mashit_ in the fourth of _Kings_, chap. xxiii. but the other goeth over the height of the mount of Olives out by _Bethania_ to the house of _Mary_ and _Martha_. A little higher on this hill did our Saviour sit, over-against the temple, when he foretold his disciples that shewed him the glorious buildings thereof, ‘That not one stone should remain upon another that should not be thrown down;’ and did also tell them at length, the terrible and prodigious signs, that should come to pass before the desolation of _Jerusalem_, and the end of the world. To this day we still see into the _Turkish_ mosque, with it’s large paved court-yard, over the walls thereof so perfectly, that you may distinguish almost the persons that walk there. From thence, when you go up to the hill, which is very steep and rough, there is a large plain, from whence our dear Lord Jesus Christ was taken up, and ascended into Heaven, as you may see by the words of the holy Evangelist St _Luke_, in his first chapter of the _Acts_, vers. 9. where he saith, ‘And he was taken up, and a cloud received him out of their sight,’ and verse 12. ‘Then return’d they unto _Jerusalem_ from the mount call’d Olivet, which is from _Jerusalem_ a Sabbath-day’s journey.’ On this place, as _Nicephorus_ mentioneth, did Queen _Helena_ also afterwards build a stately church, which now is so decay’d, that there is no more to be seen of it but a new built chapel in a large yard surrounded with a wall. Just by it on a hill of the mount towards the north and _Galilea_, there is an old and decay’d building, which was formerly (as my guide inform’d me) an inn for the _Galileans_, where commonly did take up those that went to _Jerusalem_ from _Galilea_. Wherefore they are of opinion, that some of them were there in the time of Christ, that also were spectators of his glorious ascension, as it doth appear by the words of the two Angels, that spoke to them, and said, ‘You men of _Galilea_, why stand you here gazing up into heaven, &c.’ But if you duely consider these words, you will find, as you read it in the _Acts_ ii. 7. that the Apostles themselves were these _Galileans_, where it is written: ‘Behold, are not all those which speak _Galileans_? and how hear we every man in our own tongue, &c.’ So did also the holy Angels speak to the Apostles after the same manner, and call’d them _Galileans_, rather to bring them, as Elders of the Christian church, off their worldly thoughts, which they had conceived in their hearts, of the restoring of the worldly regiment or kingdom again, which they should have left, and instead thereof look’d upon the heavenly kingdom, whereinto Christ was ascended, into the kingdom of God, whereinto they were received as members, which is a more spiritual kingdom, that doth not consist in outward things, eating and drinking, _&c._, but in a clean and faithful heart. After this they ought to strive, and to make it their only business, that it may be notify’d to all men, and be spread abroad all the world over.

From the top of the mountain, you have a prospect over all the holy land, towards the north over the valley _Josaphat_, which is just at the bottom of the hill, into the country of _Galilea_; towards the east, over some naked mountains, down into a large field which extends itself to the Dead Sea, that is, as _Josephus_ mentioneth, twenty nine leagues long, and fifteen broad, whereof the Scripture maketh mention, chiefly the books of _Macchabees_, and in the second of _Samuel_, chap. xv. where it is written, That when King _David_ did fly from his son _Absolon_, he tarry’d in the plain fields until he had intelligence of him. In these is still remaining the pillar of salt that _Lot_’s wife was turn’d into, when she, against the command of God, turn’d to look back to the city. The famous Historiographer _Flavius Josephus_ did in his time see it in his own person; and the Pilgrims visit it to this day, and beat off of it some small pieces, as they do every where, chiefly in holy places, and yet it is found still whole, and without any defect; which did put some Pilgrims, that went to the Dead Sea, into great admiration. Now that they might be certain and be assured of the truth of the common assertion, That whatsoever was broken off of this pillar, was always found whole again; they did, chiefly one of them, (as I was informed by one that had been there before) knock off a whole hand, and took it away with them. Now after they had been at the end of their journey, and came back again, and went to look for it on purpose, they found it whole again, and exactly like unto the old one as it had been before. Farther beyond the plain fields, at the other side of _Jordan_ that runs thro’ it, there appear the _Arabian_ mountains, that were inhabited by _Ruben_, _Gad_, and half the Tribe of _Manasse_; they are very high, and afford very good pasture for the cattle; some among them were much noted and famous of old, as the mountain of _Seir_ beyond the Dead Sea, mount _Garizim_ and _Ebal_, whereof is made mention in _Deuteronomy_ chap. xxvii. and also chap. xxxii. of mount _Abarim_, _Nebo_, and the point of _Pisgah_, situated in the land of the _Moabites_, over-against _Jericho_, which together with all the adjacent places are very well seen; as well as towards the west the rivulet _Cedron_, and the situation and largeness of the city of _Jerusalem_. After we had look’d about sufficiently, we went down to the place of the village _Bethphage_, which is at the other side on the ascent of mount Olivet, and belongeth to the Priests of _Jerusalem_; this is so ruin’d, that now-a-days there is nothing left of it save only a few foundation-walls. Into this did Christ send his disciples, to loosen the she-ass and the colt which was ty’d to the door in the road, and to bring them to him, whereon our Lord Christ also did ride to _Jerusalem_ five days before he suffered, being the true Saviour.

Before it the mount is pretty plain, and is very rough and rocky, wherein _Bethania_ lieth on the right hand upon one ascent, of the other part of mount Olivet, as is before said, but the village of _Mary_ and _Martha_ (whereof you read in the Gospel of St _John_, chap. xi.) is farther out by the beginning of the road towards _Jericho_, which is still very dangerous, because of the _Arabian_ vagabonds. In these habitations did our dear Saviour oftentimes take up his lodgings with them; and in the same did _Mary_ the sister of _Lazarus_, and _Martha_ anoint the feet of our Lord Christ with a precious ointment of _Nard_, and dry them again with her hair; in our days they are quite desolated, and nothing left thereof but ruins. Near it as you come back again to _Bethania_, in the plain lieth a large stone, where also you may see the above-mention’d places very plain; where they say that _Martha_ did meet the Lord, when he came up the steps, and rested on the mount, and talked with him of the resurrection of her brother, before her sister _Mary_ did know any thing of the arrival of the Lord. Wherefore she went back again into their village, to call her sister _Mary_ secretly, who, when she heard that our Lord Christ was near at hand, did hasten and went to him, for he was not yet come into the village, and fell down at his feet, and said weeping, ‘Lord, if thou hadst been here, my brother had not dy’d;’ then he groaned in his spirit, and enquired presently after the place where _Lazarus_ his dear friend was laid, and went with them to it to _Bethania_ that village, distant a league, (about an hours going,) or as the Scripture saith: about fifteen furlongs from _Jerusalem_ on an ascent; wherein was a small chapel, and underneath it a deep cover’d cave, wherein _Lazarus_ had lain four days, as you may also see in the before quoted chapter, where it is in the thirty eighth verse said: ‘It was a cave, and a stone lay upon it.’ When the _Franciscan_ Friers would go to the grave of _Lazarus_, they were forced to go through this village, and a great concourse of the poor inhabitants used to flock about them, and did surround them, and detained them till they gave them something to be distributed amongst them; that they might evade this trouble, and not be necessitated to go thro’ this village, when they go to the grave, they have made behind at the other side on the height another avenue, but they do not escape the _Mobile_ for all that, for they meet them notwithstanding, chiefly, if they know or have intelligence, that any Pilgrims came along with them to see the grave; so we did find it, for they came and kept us lock’d up in it so long, till we had given them so much as did satisfy them. As you come out again from _Bethania_ towards _Jerusalem_, the Friers shew an old building, where _Simon_ the Leper did dwell, in which when Christ was at the table, _Mary_ the sister of _Lazarus_ did come, and did break again, yet several days after, a glass of precious unguent of _Nard_ over his head, which fill’d the whole house with a fragrant scent; which pleased Christ so well, that he took her part against his disciples, and commended her proceedings so highly, that it is recorded to her perpetual memory. From thence if you come nearer into the valley between thee mounts of Olives, there is still to be seen several fig-trees whereabouts Christ did curse one of that kind, because he found no fruit thereon when he was hungry. Just at the coming out of the valley near unto the steps of mount Olivet, you see the city again, but chiefly the mount of the temple and gate where you go up, walled up in the new wall. From this valley, when our Lord Christ came in sight, and came down the mount Olivet, the people, as he came riding along, cry’d, saying, ‘Hosanna, to the Son of David, _&c._’ and a little after when he came nearer unto it, he lamented with tears also their future misery, and the terrible destruction of the town, and went in from thence towards the golden gate into the temple and drove out the buyers and sellers.

CHAP. XXII.

_Of the ~Bethlehem~, the mountains of ~Judea~, and their famous places. Where also is made mention of my returning back from ~Jerusalem~ to ~Tripoli~._

_Bethlehem_, formerly called _Ephrata_, is situated towards the south, twenty furlongs, or a _German_ mile distant from _Jerusalem_. The nearest way to it, you go through the gate of _Hebron_, and come to the right by the upper mote, and the bloody field, up the steps over mount _Gihon_, where just before you see a cistern with good fresh water near the path, made of white stones, and well prepared; near which the star did appear again unto the three wise men of the eastern countries, and led them into _Bethlehem_. Near it there groweth a Turpentine-tree larger and higher than any that ever I saw elsewhere in my life. Farther, about half way, you pass over a hill, at the top whereof you may see both towns, _Jerusalem_ and _Bethlehem_. Before you is a large valley, which, altho’ it be rocky, yet it is fruitful both of corn and wine. In it, towards the right hand near the road, is an acre called the _Cicer_ field, which had it’s name (as I was informed) from the following transaction. It is said, that when _Christ_ went by at a certain time, and saw a man that was sowing Cicers, he did speak to him kindly, and asked him what he was a sowing there, the man answered scornfully, and said, _He sowed small stones._ _Then let it be_, said our Lord, _that thou reap the same seed thou sowest._ So they say, that at harvest time, he found instead of the Cicer-pease, nothing but small pebbles in shape, and colour and bigness, like unto them exactly. Now whether there be any thing of truth in it or no I cannot affirm; but this I must say, that there are to this day, such stones found in this field. For, as we went by, some of us went into it, and did gather a great many of them that were in bigness, shape and colour, so like unto these Cicers (by the _Arabians_ called _Ommos_, and in _Latin_, _Cicer arietinum_) that we could hardly distinguish them from natural ones.