Part 21

Having here before made mention of the _Maronites_ and _Trusci_ their neighbours and allies, I cannot but must also go farther, and briefly relate, how the _Turk_ did make war against them, (as to whom they are not yet quite subjected) during the time of my staying in these countries. But from whence this war did first arise, and had it’s beginning, I was thus inform’d, that it broke out about one of their governours, which lived then for a little time at _Damascus_. For when the Grand Signior observed that these people did daily grow in number and strength, he consider’d that if he should let them go on so, and neglect to curb them in time, they might probably after a while grow too potent for him; wherefore he thought it requisite to study and make it his business to find out ways and means to subdue them, and to reduce them under his power. In order thereunto, he apprehended the governour that lived then in _Damascus_, and put him into prison, and at length took away his life unjustly, under pretence as if he had endeavour’d to raise a rebellion; not doubting but that when he had removed their head, he might the easier subdue and reduce the people. But when the _Trusci_ and _Maronites_ understood this cruel and abominable fact, not without grief and trouble, they were not only not at all discouraged from resisting so great and formidable an enemy, but rather took new courage that was promoted by the great anger this detestable fact put them into, so that they united themselves the firmer, and did unanimously resolve to oppose him with all their might and power, and to stand by their antient liberty; and accordingly they began immediately to arm themselves, to fortify their villages, and chiefly their passes, and to provide themselves with guns, bows, and arrows, and all other things necessary for their defence, so that in case of necessity they might be ready to resist their enemies, being such a kind that kept neither faith nor promise, which they had often experienced to their great grief and losses. So that in all probability it was like to be a war, which also broke out with great violence within a little time after. But because I went for _Bagdat_ at the same time, where in former years the potent Caliphi did reside, I did hear no more of it in all my journey until at my return, when my comrade _Hans Ulrich Krafft_ of _Ulm_, then prisoner in _Tripoli_, did relate it to me, so as it was reported to him by credible hands; who told me that the _Trusci_ are very numerous, that they were divided into several regiments, of several colours, and that those that live in the middle of the high mountains were the most numerous of them all, that they live in a country that is very well secured and surrounded, so that they need not, nor will not be subject either to the _Turks_ or any other potentate. They are warlike people, for the generality good gunners, that make their own guns and any other sorts of arms, _&c._ they have plenty of corn, oil, wine, good meat and good fruit, so that they need not any assistance of strangers. They chiefly deal in silk, whereof they wind (from silkworms) about one hundred rotulas in a year (which is about 450 C. weight) to send from thence into other countries. These have their white colours, and their confederates that live on the outward hill towards the sea, at _Baruti_ near _Tripoli_, have red ones, and have also their colonel whom they call _Ermin Mackfur_, who also those that belong unto the white colours acknowledge to be theirs, as well as their own, who was lately murder’d. This because he could not entrench himself as well as the other _Trusci_ on the hill, agreed with the Great Sultan, and made peace upon this account, that if he would let him live peaceably and quietly, he would help him to protect the country, and pay unto him yearly the accustom’d tribute, but if the Grand Signior would not be pleased with this proffer, he would join and assist them. The Emperor accepted of this, and did not only make this _Ermin Mackfur_ Lord of all _Baruti_ and _Scide_, call’d _Sidon_, but did also procure him a great and plentiful yearly revenue out of these countries; thinking thus to oblige him, to help him with his _Trusci_ to subdue the others, not doubting but that he might easily overcome these, when once the other on the mountains were kill’d. But they would not get up the hill, but did profer to the _Turks_, that if their men and the _Moors_ should go up, they would be ready in the valley about _Baruti_, to cut off all that should fall into their hands. This answer they gave to the Sultan, only for fashion’s sake, for no _Truscus_ killeth the other. When the Sultan saw that they would not bite one another, and that he was not like to obtain any great matter from the Colonel, he did notwithstanding send up the Bashaw of _Damascus_ with six other Bashaws and seventeen Sangiacks, about 200,000 strong, both foot and horse well arm’d, to subdue the before mention’d _Trusci_ which were about 60,000 strong, to burn, demolish and destroy their towns, villages, houses and plantations. After they were come up to the ascent two days journey from _Damascus_, they found the roads so steep that no body could pass them on horseback, for there was nothing to be seen but rough and sharp pointed rocks. So they agreed to dismount, and to go up to them on foot, and so they took presently six or seven villages, whereof there is said to be twenty seven in all, but they found nothing in them but some women and children and very few men (the rest were got upon the hills where they had entrench’d themselves) which were all cut in pieces, and the villages burnt.

The _Turks_ and _Moors_ thought themselves obliged, according to their Emperors command to go on farther, so they endeavour’d and got up higher, but could not do any more harm to the _Trusci_, being hinder’d by the bad ways; but on the contrary the _Trusci_ met them sometimes and poured their shot upon them from all sides, before they were aware of it, so that they were but in an ill condition. Then when the _Turks_ would pursue these men, they were too quick for them, as being born and bred in these mountains; so they did only laugh at them, and bid them kiss their breeches; so the _Turks_, partly for want of provision, partly being tired by the steep roads, were sometimes forced, not without great damage and loss of their men, to retire again to take better measures. Sometimes also the _Trusci_ would stand between the rocks cover’d and when they found any of their enemies appear, chiefly those that endeavour’d to climb up the rocks, they would all of a sudden shoot among them as among a flock of pigeons, so that many of them did precipitate themselves and broke their necks. They would also sometimes decoy the _Turks_ into a good road and after eight or ten thousand of them were passed, they would with six thousand _Trusci_ fall in the rear of them, to drive them up higher, where others soon did appear that came down upon them; so they surrounded them sometimes and received them so warmly, that but very few of them came back again to tell what was become of the rest. After this war had continued for about two months, the Bashaw at last was forced to make a shameful retreat with the remainder of his forces, and that so much the sooner because the winter began to approach, so that it was impossible to endure the frost and snow, which occasion’d many to die, and the chiefest of them came home sick.

The _Trusci_ pretend to be Christians, and the posterity of those that some years ago by might and strength recover’d the Holy Land; so that still to this day they have a great affection for Christians, which those that travel among them to buy silks can testify, whom they treat and entertain very civilly with good meat and good wine, yet refuse to take any money for it; and say, that what God hath given them they are bound to distribute among us Christians. But they hate _Mahometans_ and Jews, and keep very good intelligence with the Christians of this country. Yet they themselves are neither Christians, _Turks_, _Moors_ nor Jews; for they do not go to mass, nor any other publick worship of God; they cry out sometimes to heaven that God would be pleased to protect them. They also believe according to the opinion of _Pythagoras_, that the souls of the deceased according to their merits, transmigrate from one body into another; that the soul of a pious man goeth into a new born child, and that of an ill man into the body of a dog or other wild beast; chiefly if he hath lived very ill. As they believe so they live also. Among them they marry to their nearest relations, the brother to his sister, the son to his mother, the father to the daughter, and they lie all together a night, but they will not marry into a strange family. The father or the mother says, seeing that God hath given me this child as a seed unto me, why should I throw it away upon a stranger; or else, I have a garden, and God giveth me flowers in it, is it not reasonable that I should enjoy them rather than a stranger? _&c._ they make use of a great many of these and the like expressions. They also keep a yearly feast with their wives which then they change one with the other as they please. Else they are not given to stealing, killing or any such like crimes, because they want for nothing, but if any be taken that hath transgressed he is executed immediately. So they live in peace together, and care not for any other Monarch.

_End of the second Part._

Dr _Leonhart Rauwolff_’s

TRAVELS

INTO THE

Eastern Countries.

Wherein is chiefly treated of the Land of Promise, the city of _Jerusalem_, and also of several opinions, beliefs and Errors of the _Turks_ and _Christians_.

PART. III.

CHAP. I.

_A short description of his departure from ~Tripoli~, a town of ~Phœnicia~ in ~Syria~, and how he went from thence to ~Joppa~._

After my return to _Tripoli_, when I found myself near to the confines of _Canaan_, the land of promise, promised and given to the _Israelites_ by the Lord of _Zebaoth_, and considered, that our long before promised _Messias_, Lord and Saviour of the _Gentiles_ was there, according to the prophecies of the prophets born in _Bethlehem_ of the virgin _Mary_, and by the _Jews_ suffered the shameful death of crucifixion at _Jerusalem_ on the mount of _Calvaria_, and afterwards was laid in the new tomb of _Joseph_ of _Arimathea_, that was cut out of a rock, _&c._ I found in me a great desire to see these and other the like holy places: Not that I thought still to find there _Christ_ our Lord, as the two young men _Peter_ and _John_ and the three _Maries_ did, but to exercise my outward senses in the contemplation thereof, that I might the more fervently consider with my inward ones his bitter passion, death, resurrection and ascension, and to appropriate to myself, and to apprehend the better, and to make my own, by faith and firm confidence, _Christ_ our Lord himself together with his heavenly gifts and treasures, as he has manifested himself in the holy scriptures; wherefore I was fully resolved to look out for fellow travellers to accompany me in this journey before I returned home again. I staid not long in quest of company, but quickly met four Pilgrims that came out of the Low Countries that had the same intention; there also came to us a _Grecian_ Monk of the order of the _Carmelites_ whom I knew before when he lived with his master, that I cured of a very dangerous distemper, and desired to go in company with us. So we agreed together, and bespoke a small _Turkish_ vessel with eight oars, by them called _Caramusala_ whereof there were many in the harbour, that wait constantly for travellers, goods and provision, to be carried into the neighbouring towns and provinces, _viz._ to _Antiochia_, _Caramania_, anciently called _Cilicia_, _Cyprus_, _Baruthi_, _Caramania_, or quite into _Egypt_. We bought some biskets, cibets, eggs, cheese, pompions, which the _Arabians_ call _Batticas_, _Margeropfel_, oranges, good wine, _&c._ which we had occasion of for our journey, of which as much as would last us eight days; for the ship-masters do not willingly land, chiefly with Pilgrims, because of the great customs the roguish _Turks_ demand unjustly from us Christians every where, until we arrive at our designed stations.

After we had thus fitted ourselves, and got a good wind, we went aboard the ship on the seventh of _September_, in the year 1575, and put off, and came before night to the point _Capugio_, to the village _Aniffe_, anciently called _Neuphrus_, which was in former ages very well fortified, as still appeareth by some remainders to this day. This village is pretty big, but every where open, that one might easily take it with a handful of men; it is situated on the foot of mount _Libanus_, which is very high there, and reacheth unto the sea. It is chiefly inhabited by _Maronites_, as are also many more villages of this mountain, chiefly those that lie in vallies towards _Aleppo_, where I have inned many times when I went through it, and was very kindly received; they keep very good wine by them, which the _Turks_ know very well, and come there very often for it, altho they are forbidden (by the laws of their Mahometan Koran) to satisfy their desire. These _Maronites_ are Christians, and speak the _Arabian_ language, and have their Patriarchs, which are first chosen by the people, and then confirmed by the Pope. After we had went on from thence very well all night long, all along the steep mountainous shore, and had made the utmost point of the promontory of _Baruthi_, we saw in the morning a far off, that famous town lying behind it, where formerly great commerce has been drove, well fortified with strong towers towards the sea, and surrounded with fruitful orchards and vineyards. In this, and also in more adjacent towns and villages, live a very warlike people, called _Trusci_, very nimble and expert in shooting with guns and bows, and call themselves the posterity of the ancient _Frenchmen_, which took and possessed many years agone, under _Godfrid_ and _Baldwin_, _Jerusalem_, and all the Land of Promise. They are still a free people to this day, and not subject unto the Great Sultan as others are; wherefore he hath many times attempted to bring them under his yoak. And in order thereunto he did send in the year 1574 last past, a great army consisting of two hundred thousand horse and foot to subdue them; but what harm he did them I have already mentioned in the preceding part of this Journal. They are very willing to accommodate and serve outlandish Christians, as _Germans_, _Frenchmen_ and _Italians_, whereof they make no difference, and to take them up into their habitations, and to shew them all civility and kindness; nay, and what is more, to assist them according to their utmost power against the common enemy of Christendom, as we have formerly found indeed before _Cyprus_ was taken by the _Turks_; for after they were informed that some _Italian_ gallies were to arrive to make an incursion into the adjacent towns and places, chiefly to plunder _Tripoli_, they raised seven thousand men very well armed to help them, and to come to their assistance, some of which did then appear and shew themselves on the frontiers; but finding that their gallies did not arrive, they also returned home again, and left their design unaccomplished. The _Trusci_ have a head called _Ermin Mackfur_, that is, a judicious man, and a very experienced soldier, whom they acknowledge to be their supreme governor, and are obedient to him; he liveth in a castle on the bottom of the mountain not far from the town we went by; he taketh great pains, chiefly now after the _Turkish_ war, and maketh great provision to keep the country in peace and security. He also keepeth good correspondence with the neighbouring people, chiefly the _Maronites_, that have lived long before in these mountains, with whom he hath lately renewed the old confederacy again, as I know very well, and their Patriarch himself was with him, before I was called to cure him of his distemper. He also leaveth no stone unturned to get in with others, and to make them his confederates; so that he hath already secured to himself the _Syrians_, which are also Christians, yet not without gross errors, by paying to them a yearly pension. These speak also _Arabick_, and are very like unto them in shape, manners, fashion and cloaths; and I found two of them among our seamen, that confirmed this to me.

After we had gone on a great while, and were passed by the point of the promontary of _Barnti_, which extendeth itself far into the sea, our ship-master, who was a _Turk_, and understood the _Arabian_ language, shewed me a village lying beyond it, called _Burgi_, and told me, that that was also inhabited altogether by _Harani Quibir_, that is, great robbers and murtherers, as they always call these people. But I being better informed beforehand, I prayed by myself that God would be pleased to let the poor slaves that live in hard servitude under the _Turks_, who were these they call _Harani_; and I do not at all question, but they would soon take their refuge to them to make themselves free of their servitude, as those might easily do, that live about these countries in _Syria_.

We saw also upon the shoar some ancient towers, and among them chiefly two, which are renewed again, wherein the _Trusci_ keep watches to observe the pirates, but the others whereof there are a great many not above a league distant from one another, are for the greatest part by age decayed. Some say that they were formerly built by the potent Emperors, that if any nation should rise up in rebellion, they might immediately give notice thereof to _Constantinople_. These gave notice, before guns were invented, in the night by a flaming fire, and by day-time by a great smoak. And they still keep to this in many places, altho’ guns are now invented.

In the afternoon we were becalmed, and so our journey went on but slowly, we saw late at night a small village called _Carniola_ upon the height: and soon after at the foot of the high mount of _Libanus_, southward of the city of _Sidon_, by the inhabitants still called _Scida_, which is not very great, but as far as I could see, very well built, and defended by two castles, one whereof is situated towards the north on a high rock, the other on a little hill. Those that are going to _Saphet_, which is a day’s journey distant from it, land there. Before we could reach it, night befel us, and brought contrary winds, which hindered us so much, that we could hardly reach the glorious and rich town of _Tyrus_, now by the inhabitants called _Sur_, which lieth in a manner close to it, until the next morning. This is still pretty large, and lieth on a rock in the sea, about five hundred paces distant from the shoar of _Phœnicia_. In former ages _Alexander_ the Great did besiege it for seven months, and during the siege he filled up the streight of the sea, and did join it to the continent, and after he had taken it, he laid it into ashes, so that punishment was inflicted on the inhabitants which the Prophet _Esaias_ denounced against them four hundred years before.

On the confines of _Tirus_ and _Sidon_, that _Cananean_ woman came to _Christ_ on behalf of her daughter that was possessed of an unclean spirit, whereof the Lord, seeing her faith, did deliver her immediately.

Just before it, we heard a great noise of large running springs, which rise within the country with so great a vehemency, that they drive several mills. Within a large distance from thence, we saw a very fine new house called _Nacora_.

Two miles farther near mount _Saron_ within, southward, we saw a large village called _Sib_, without it in the sea round about were several banks and rocks, behind which we hid ourselves, the wind being contrary, and staid for a more favourable one; in the mean while, some of our men got out among the rocks to catch fish, and to find oisters, where they also gathered so much sea-salt, that they filled up a great sack with it.

Between this and mount _Carmelo_, which are eight leagues distant, and run out a great way into the seas, lieth almost in the middle thereof, as it were in a half moon, the famous town of _Acon_, anciently called _Ptolemais_, on a high rocky shoar, which some years ago, when _Baldewin_, the brother of _Gotefrid_, first, and _Guidon_ after him, did possess themselves of the Holy Land, was not without great loss of many men taken by them, from _Saladine_ King of the _Saracens_ in _Ægypt_, which had (after some obtained victories) surrendered itself again a second time, after a long siege. This town hath very good fields of a fertile soil about it, and is at this time, together with the Land of Promise and others, (to the great grief of the Christians) subjected under the yoak and slavery of the _Turkish_ Emperor.

The next day the wind favouring us, we hoisted up our sails, and got out at sea, with less danger to get before the point of the mountain, but our design was frustrated; for about noon a contrary wind arose, which did not only hinder us in our course, but violently drove us back again, so that we were forced to have recourse to our old shelter behind the rocks again. After midnight when it began to be calm, and another wind arose, we put out two hours before break of day, and went along the shore towards the town _Hayphe_, formerly call’d _Caypha_ or _Porphyria_, four leagues beyond _Acon_, lying just within mount _Carmel_, where on the evening when we came very near it, several frigats came out of all sides to surround us. As soon as the master of our ship perceived them, he did not like it, wherefore he let fall his sails, and exhorted his men to ply their oars to get clear of them. When they saw they could not reach us, they left their design and went back; but we landed without on that mount _Carmelo_, to put out again in the night. This mountain is very high and famous in Scripture; for we read in the third book of the _Kings_, and the eighteenth chapter, that the holy Prophet _Elias_ call’d before him upon the hill the people of _Israel_, the four hundred and fifty of _Baal_’s priests, and the four hundred of _Hayns_, to chide them for their idolatery; where also God heard him, and consumed his sacrifice by fire that came down from Heaven; but the priests of _Baal_ were not only not heard by their idols, but kill’d as idolaters near the river _Kison_; and also in the fifth of the epistle of _James_; that after the Heavens had been lock’d up for the space of three years and an half, _Elias_ did pray to God on this mount, and the Lord heard him, and let rain fall down upon the dry and barren earth. From this mountain, the (presumed) holy order of the _Carmelites_ taketh it’s name, which was first there endowed with several privileges by Pope _Innocent_ the third, and _Albert_ the Patriarch of _Jerusalem_, in the year 1205; and afterwards when they were encreased to a great number, under pretence of greater holiness, confirmed by the name of _The Brothers of our Lady_, by Pope _Honorius_ the third, in the year 1226. These pretend to be the followers of the doctrine of _Cyrillus_, wear daily black girded coats, and over them, when they say mass, white Monks habits. Some years ago without doubt, have a great many of this order lived hereabouts, as still to this day doth appear, by their cloisters and churches, which by age are so mightily decay’d, that they are left deserted and uninhabited. This mountain is also round about towards the sea-coast very bare and rough, that we may very well say with the holy Prophet _Amos_, _That the pastures of the herdsmen shall look miserably, and the top of the mountain dry up_.