Chapter 9

One part of good brandy, to six of clean rain or distilled water, makes an admirable eye water for most cases of sore eyes.

503. FOR CHRONIC GOUT AND RHEUMATISM

Take of bicarbonate of potash 1/2 drachm, tincture of orange 2 drachms, compound decoction of aloes 8 oz., mix. Dose, a wine glass full whenever the fit is expected. This is Sir A. Cooper's prescription.

504. FOR SICKNESS AND VOMITING

Take of creosote 16 drops, acetic acid 16 drops, compound spirit of juniper 1 oz., syrup 1 oz., water 14 oz.; mix the creosote with the acid, add gradually the water, and lastly the syrup and spirit. Dose from two to four tablespoonsful.

505. LAXATIVE PILL

Take of powdered aloes 1 drachm, gamboge 10 grains, Castile soap and water sufficient to make a pill mass; mix and divide into 34 pills. Dose, one, two, or three, to be given when necessary, for torpid bowels.

506. FOR HEADACHE

In case of a severe attack of headache the best remedy is, generally, to take a good strong physic of salts and senna. If this does not relieve it, or where the person is very frequently troubled with headache, apply a blister to the back of the neck, you will find it an excellent remedy.

507. FOR MAKING SIZE

This, with the following four, are currier's receipts.

Take of sizing 1 quart, soft soap 1 gill, stuffing 1 gill, sweet milk 1/2 pint; boil the sizing in water to a proper consistence, strain and add the other ingredients, and when thoroughly mixed it is ready for use.

508. FOR PASTE

First coat.--Take of water 2 quarts; flour 1/2 pint, castile soap 1 oz.; make into paste. Second coat.--Take of the first paste 1/2 pint, gum tragacanth 1 gill, water 1 pint; mix all together. This will finish eighteen sides of upper.

509. SKIRTING

This is for finishing skirting and the flesh of harness leather in imitation of oak tanning. Take of chrome yellow 1/2 lb., yellow ochre 1 lb., cream of tartar 1 oz., soda 1/2 oz., paste 5 quarts; mix well. This will finish twelve sides.

510. SKIRTING

For the grain of skirting to imitate oak tan, take of chrome yellow 1/2 lb., yellow ochre 1/2 lb., cream of tartar 1 oz., soda 1 oz., paste 2 qts., spirits of turpentine 1 pint. Mix well; this will finish twelve sides.

511. GRAIN BLACK

This is for the grain of harness leather. First, stain in tallow, then take of spirits of turpentine 1 pint, cream of tartar 1 oz., soda 1 oz., gum shellac 1/2 oz., thick paste reduced thin 2 qts. Mix well. This will finish 24 sides.

512. ANTIDOTES FOR POISONS

The antidotes for poisoning with the strong mineral acids, such as nitric, muriatic, sulphuric, or oxalic acids are magnesia, chalk, whiting, in milk or water; mucilaginous or soapy liquids. When sulphuric acid has been taken, use very little water if any. Irritate the throat with a feather to produce vomiting.

The antidote for poisoning with corrosive sublimate or any other preparation of mercury, is albumen, as whites of eggs, in large quantity, flour and water, and milk. The whites of eggs are best.

The antidotes for poisoning by opium, or any of its preparations, as morphia, laudanum, &c., are the stomach pump if it can be had; tartar emetic, 2 to 5 grains, or sulphate of zinc, 15 to 30 grains, or sulphate of copper, 12 to 15 grs., for an adult. The sulphates of zinc or copper are best, because they act quicker. External excitation, keep in motion, mechanical excitement of respiration, cold effusion to the head and face, feet in hot water, electro-magnetism, internal stimulants, as bicarbonate of ammonia, 5 to 25 grains in water, carbonate of ammonia, 5 to 15 grains in water, coffee and vegetable acids. Some propose as an antidote for every case of poisoning, half a pint of bland oil, as sweet oil, fresh butter melted to oil, &c., to be drank at once, for an adult.

513. TREATMENT OF DROWNING

If respiration has ceased when the body is taken out of the water, it should instantly be commenced artificially, by putting a pipe into one nostril, and closing the mouth and the other nostril, and very gently blowing through it about 15 times in a minute; but it is a better plan to use a small pair of bellows, putting its muzzle into the nostril, at the same time the body should be wiped dry, and be assiduously rubbed with hot cloths; hot bricks and bottles of hot water should be put into the armpit, between the thighs, and to the feet; the head should be raised, the nostrils irritated with a feather, or the fumes of hartshorn, and a warm injection of turpentine, made as follows, may be thrown up--oil of turpentine, 3 drachms; gruel, 1/2 a pint; and the yolk of 1 egg. Incorporate the turpentine with the egg, then add the gruel. Galvanism should be resorted to, if respiration is not quickly restored. As soon as the patient can swallow, he should have some weak wine and water; and soon afterwards an emetic of a large tablespoonful of mustard, mixed with 6 ozs. of water, to clear the stomach of the water which he has swallowed, and to restore the circulation by the impetus of vomiting. After some hours he will suffer from severe headache and fever, which must be relieved by bleeding, purgatives, &c., which will be attended to by a physician, who will be present by this time. A case is related in which life was restored by the most persevering friction, which was kept up for eight hours before the humanity of the surgeon, Dr. Douglass, of Havre, was rewarded by a return of respiration.

514. ELASTIC CEMENT FOR BELTS

Take of white glue, 1 lb., dry white lead, 1 lb., alcohol, 1/2 pint, rain water, 3 pints, and proceed as directed in receipt No. 417. When ready for use apply to the ends of the belt, lay them together and place upon them a heavy weight until perfectly dry, then use the belt as you please.

515. GOOD SAMARITAN OR PAIN-KILLER

Take of 95 percent alcohol 2 quarts, and add to it the following articles: oils of sarsafras and hemlock, spirits of turpentine, balsam of fir, chloriform, tincture of catechu and guaiacum, of each 1 oz., oil of origanum 2 oz., oil of wintergreen 1/2 oz., and gum of camphor 1/2 oz. Let it all be well incorporated and you have the most excellent pain killer that was ever made. It is good for rheumatism, headache, neuralgia, cuts, sprains, burns, bruises, spinal affections, ear-ache, tooth-ache, sore throat, &c. This is used internally and externally, the dose internally is 10 drops; take on sugar.

516. DIAMOND PASTE FOR RAZORS

By rubbing a little of this paste on your razor-strap, it is astonishing how speedily you will be able to sharpen a razor. It is made simply by mixing flour of emery and sweet oil, to the consistence of paste.

517. FOR STAGGERS IN SHEEP

Dissolve assafoetida in warm water, and put half a tablespoonful in each ear of the sheep. It is a speedy remedy.

518. WATER-PROOF FOR LEATHER

Take of linseed oil, 1 pint; yellow wax and white turpentine, of each, 2 oz.; burgundy pitch, 1 oz.; melt all together, and colour with lampblack. This being applied to boots, you may stand in water all day, and your feet will be dry at night.

519. TO BROWN GUN-BARRELS

Rub the barrel, after it is finished, with aquafortis, or spirit of salt diluted in water; leave it by for a week, till a complete coat is formed; then apply a little oil, and after rubbing the surface dry, polish it with a hard brush and a little beeswax.

520. LIQUID GLUE

Put 1 oz. of borax into a pan with 1 quart of water, set it on the fire; when melted, which will be very soon, put in 8 oz. of gum shellac, and boil until dissolved; if too thin add more gum; when cool bottle for use.

521. TO TAKE INK SPOTS OUT OF MAHOGANY

Apply spirits of salt with a rag, until the spot disappears, and immediately wash with clean water; or to half a pint of soft water put 1 oz. of oxalic acid, and 1/2 oz. of butter of antimony; shake it well, and when dissolved it will be very useful for extracting stains out of mahogany, as well as ink, if not of too long standing.

522. TO CLEAN MARBLE, SIENNA, JASPER, PORPHYRY, &c.

Mix up a quantity of strongest soap-lees with quicklime, to the consistence of milk, and lay it on the stone, &c., for 24 hours; clean it afterwards with soap and water, and it will appear as new. This may be improved by rubbing or polishing it afterwards with fine putty powder and olive oil. This is a beautiful article for cleaning marble monuments, &c.

523. TO CLEAN SILVER FURNITURE

Lay the furniture piece by piece upon a charcoal fire; and when they are just red, take them off and boil them in tartar and water, and your silver will have the same beauty as when first made. Try this method once and you will never forsake it; it will not remove a portion of the silver, as article that are sold in vials, boxes, &c., for this purpose will do.

524. A FINE BLACK VARNISH

Take 2 ozs. of bitumen of Palestine, 2 ozs. of resin, and 12 ozs. of umber; melt them separately, and afterwards mix them together over a moderate fire; then pour upon them, while on the fire, 6 ozs. of clear boiled linseed oil, and keep stirring the whole from time to time; take it off the fire, and, when pretty cool, pour in 12 ozs. of essence of turpentine. This varnish is for coaches and iron work.

525. TO PAINT SAIL-CLOTH, SO AS TO MAKE IT PLIANT, DURABLE, AND WATER-PROOF

Grind 96 lbs. of English ochre with boiled oil, and add to it 16 lbs. of black paint; dissolve 1 lb. of yellow soap in one pail of water, on the fire, and mix it while hot with the paint. Lay this composition, without wetting it, upon the canvass, as stiff as can conveniently be done with the brush, so as to form a smooth surface; the next day, or the day after, (if the latter, so much the better,) lay on a second coat of ochre and black, with a very little, if any, soap; allow this coat a day to dry, and then finish the canvass with black paint.

526. PHOTOCROMATIC OIL PAINTING

INSTRUCTION:

Chemicals used in executing them:--chemical varnish, No. 1, 2 oz. damar varnish, 1 oz. spirits turpentine; (mix well together.) Finishing varnish, No. 2, 1 oz. spirits turpentine, 1 oz. alcohol, 1 oz. salt, 1 quart water. A camel's hair brush is needed for varnishing. Take a smooth pane of common window-glass, any size you choose, clean it well, then varnish one side of it with chemical varnish No. 1, lay it away where it will be perfectly free from dust, and let it dry twenty-four hours; next varnish the same side of the glass again, and let it dry about one half hour, or until the varnish becomes stickey. Immediately after varnishing the glass the second time, take the print that you wish to get an impression of, and immerse it in the solution No. 3; put the solution in a flat pan, and lay the print in with the face side up; let the print lay in the solution about five minutes, or until the paper is completely saturated, then remove it, taking care not to stretch it, and lay it on paper with the face side up, in order that the solution may dry from the face of the print. In this way prepare the print, getting it ready by the time the glass has dried one half hour. Next, carefully lay the face of the print on the varnished side of the glass, being particular to lay it on smooth and press it firmly to the glass, so as to exclude every particle of air; should there be any air left under the paper, it will show itself in spots, and must be pressed out. You now lay it away and let it dry another twenty-four hours; then, wet the back part of the print with water and with your hand or a wet cloth, rub the paper from the back of the print until it is so thin that the outlines of the picture can be seen from the back and of uniform thickness. You next spread a thin coat of finishing varnish (No. 2) on it and lay it away to dry. This will render it perfectly clear and transparent.--After this coat of varnish has dried, rub it over with a bit of fine sand paper, to make it smooth, and finish with two or three coats of No. 2 varnish. When dry, put it in a frame with the varnished side out, placing a sheet of light coloured paper on the back, this will give it the appearance of an oil painting. By following these directions you cannot fail to produce a beautiful picture.

527. FOR THE COMPLEXION

Boil a small piece of gum benzoin in some spirits of wine till it is dissolved, (five minutes boiling will be sufficient,) then bottle for use. A few drops of this in a glass of soft water (sufficient to make the water a milky colour) makes a delicious wash; apply with a towel or linen cloth. This article will make the skin as soft as velvet, and will constantly preserve rosy cheeks and lips, and for this it has not equal in the world; besides, it is as harmless as a sun-shower. As it is not a paint, it will not act just on the moment when applied.

528. ORIENTAL CREAM OF ROSES

Take of tincture of elder blossoms 1/2 oz., best beef marrow 1 teaspoonful, orange flower water 1/2 pint, cassia buds 1 oz., blanched bitter almonds 2 oz., spirits of oriental roses 4 drms.; mix all, and when the solution acquires the colour and consistency of milk it is fit for use. This article is for beautifying the complexion, making the skin as soft, as fair, and as rosy as that of a healthy infant; apply at pleasure. It is not only harmless, but will prove a speedy cure for all pimples, blotches, &c.

529. INSTRUCTION FOR GILDING

Dissolve a gold dollar in nitro-muriatic acid,--(2 ozs. muriatic to 1 of nitric,) then dissolve a 1/4 lb. of copperas in a pint of hot water, and pour it into the dish containing the gold and acid, pouring in a little at a time, till it stops boiling or foaming up; then let it stand and settle about six hours; then strain off the copperas-water carefully, and the gold will appear like a brown or dark yellow powder in the bottom of the dish. You will then proceed to wash the gold, which is done by pouring hot water on it; let it stand and settle a few minutes, and then drain off. Continue washing in this manner till there is no acid or copperas taste; then add to the gold in the bottom of the dish from 1-1/2 to 2 oz. cyanuret potassa, dissolved in about 1/2 pint pure soft water. The solution is then ready for use. Gild by laying a piece of pure zinc in contact with the article to be gilded, in the solution.

530. DIRECTIONS FOR SILVERING

Dissolve a silver dollar in about 2 ozs. of nitric acid by heating; then dissolve a tablespoonful of salt in about a quart of water; pour it into the dish with the silver and acid; let it stand and settle a few minutes, and the silver will settle to the bottom in a white powder. Then drain off the water carefully, and add more water, then drain off again. Continue washing in this manner till no acid or salt taste remains; then add a quart or more of pure soft water, and cyanuret potassa enough to take it up, or nearly so. The solution is then nearly ready for use.

Silver by laying a piece of zinc in contact with the article, the same as in gilding. If the article you are silvering or gilding corrodes or turns black, it wants a little more cyanuret. In gilding or silvering, the article must be thoroughly cleaned, and great care must be taken that the water used is of the purest kind.

When the plating is as heavy as you wish, polish it with a mixture of chalk and alcohol, or of chalk alone, applied with a fine brush, or else a bit of chamois leather or rag.

If you wish to put on a very heavy coat of silver or gold, instead of using zinc alone as a battery, use the following, attach a piece of copper to one end of an iron wire about ten inches long, and a piece of zinc to the other end, and place both zinc and copper in contact with the article being silvered or gilded.

531. USING FRENCH POLISH

There is a mode of using shell-lac varnish which is sometimes denominated the German, but more commonly the French mode. It merits to be generally known, as the process is easy and economical, and the effect beautiful. It has been much employed by cabinet and musical instrument makers, but is not yet so extensively practised as it merits to be. The varnish is applied by means of what is called a rubber, made by rolling up a piece of thick woollen cloth, which has been torn off so as to have a soft, elastic edge. The varnish, put into a narrow-mouthed bottle, is applied to the middle of the flat face of the rubber by laying the rubber on mouth of the bottle and quickly shaking the varnish at once, as the rubber will thus imbibe a sufficient quantity to varnish a considerable extent of surface. The rubber is then enclosed in a soft linen cloth doubled, the remainder of the cloth being gathered together at the back of the rubber to form a handle to hold it by; and the face of the linen cloth must be moistened with a little raw linseed oil, which may either be coloured with alkanet root or not, applied with the finger to the middle of it. The work to be varnished should be placed opposite to the light, in order that the effect of the polishing may be better seen, and a surface of from ten to eight feet square may be varnished at once. The rubber must be quickly and lightly rubbed upon the surface of the article to be varnished, and the rubbing continued until the varnish becomes nearly dry. The coil of woollen cloth must then be again wetted with the varnish, (no more oil need be applied to the surface of the linen cloth,) and the rubbing renewed till the varnish becomes nearly dry as before; a third coat must be applied in the same manner, then a fourth with a little oil, which must be followed by two others without oil, as before. You proceed thus until the varnish has acquired some thickness, which will be after a few repetitions of the series. Apply then a little alcohol to the inside of the linen cloth, and wet the coil with the varnish; after which, rub very quickly, lightly, and uniformly, over every part of the varnished surface, which will tend to make it even, and very much conduce to its polish. The linen cloth must now be wetted with a little alcohol and oil, without varnish; and the varnished surface being rubbed over, with the precautions last mentioned, until it is nearly dry, the effect of the operation will be seen. If it be found not complete, the process must be continued, with the introduction of alcohol in its turn as directed before, until the surface becomes smooth and of a beautiful lustre. The preceding process is that in general use; but Dr. Jones recommends, in the Franklin Journal, a rubber of a different sort, as well as a simpler mode of employing it. He takes a piece of thick woollen cloth, six or eight inches in diameter, and upon one side of this pours a teaspoonful of the varnish; he then collects the edges together, so as to enclose the varnish in the cloth and form a handle by which to hold it: this is finally covered with a piece of oiled linen cloth, and the rubber is ready for use. More varnish is added as often as it is required; and when it becomes occasionally too thick to ooze through, a little alcohol is poured into the cloth. Some difficulties may be at first experienced in performing this process; but Dr. Jones states that a very little practice will enable any handy person to surmount them. The peculiar advantage said to attend it is, that a beautiful polish may be at once obtained by a continued application of the rubber in this way; while, according to the method previously described, successive coats of varnish, which require considerable time to dry, must be used, and a great deal of additional trouble incurred. In varnishing recesses or carved work, where parts of the surface are difficult to reach with the rubber, a spirit varnish, made with or without lac of the usual gum resins, and considerably thicker than that used for the rest of the work, may be applied to those parts with a brush or hair pencil.

532. LACQUER FOR BRASS

Seed-lac, 6 ozs.; amber or copal, ground on porphyry or very clean marble, 2 ozs.; dragon's blood, 40 grains; extract of red sandal-wood, 30 grains; oriental saffron, 36 grains; pounded glass, 4 ozs.; very pure alcohol, 40 ozs. Articles, or ornaments of brass, to which this varnish is to be applied, should be exposed to a gentle heat and then dipped into the varnish. Two or three coatings may be thus applied, if necessary. Articles varnished in this manner may be cleaned with water and a bit of dry rag.

533. TO CLEAN OLD BRASS WORK FOR LACQUERING

First boil a strong lye of wood-ashes, which you may strengthen with soap-lees; put in your brass work, and the lacquer will immediately come off; then have ready a pickle of aquafortis and water, strong enough to take off the dirt; wash it immediately in clean water, dry it well, and lacquer it.

534. TO PREPARE FISH OIL FOR PAINT

Into a cask which will contain about 40 galls., put 32 galls. of good common vinegar; add to this 12 lbs. of litharge, and 12 lbs. of white copperas in powder: bung up the vessel, and shake and roll it well twice a-day for a week, when it will be fit to put into a ton of whale, cod, or seal oil, (but the southern whale oil is to be preferred, on account of its good colour and little or no smell:) shake and mix all together, when it may settle until the next day; then pour off the clear, which will be about seven-eighths of the whole. To clear this part, add 12 galls. of linseed oil, and 2 galls. of spirits of turpentine; shake them well together, and, after the whole has settled two or three days, it will be fit to grind white lead and all fine colours in; and, when ground, cannot be distinguished from those ground in linseed oil, unless by the superiority of colour. If the oil be wanted only for coarse purposes, the linseed oil and oil of turpentine may be added at the same time that the prepared vinegar is put in; and, after being well shaken up, is fit for immediate use, without being suffered to settle. The residue or bottom, when settled by the addition of half its quantity of fresh lime-water, forms an excellent oil for mixing with all the coarse paints for preserving outside work. All colours ground in the above oil, and used for inside work, must be thinned with linseed oil and oil of turpentine.

Gain by the above process.

One ton of fish oil, or 252 galls................ $151.20 32 galls. of vinegar, at 12-1/2 cts. per gall.... 4.00 12 lbs. litharge, at 7 cts. per lb............... 84 12 lbs. white copperas, at 8 cts. ditto.......... 96 12 galls. of linseed oil, at 90 cts. per gall.... 10.80 2 galls. of spirit of turpentine, at 40 cts..... 80 -------- $168.60

252 galls. of fish oil 12 ditto linseed oil 2 ditto spirit of turpentine 32 ditto vinegar --- 298 galls., at 90 cts. per gal. $268.20 Deduct the expense............. 168.60 -------- $ 99.60

535. PAINTING IN MILK