Part 7

A. There are several remedies for priming, none of which will apply effectually in all cases. Where insufficient capacity is the cause, the only remedy is a larger boiler. In others, it may be prevented by carrying the water level lower, if same can be done with safety, or taking steam from side of dome instead of top, or increasing the size of steam pipe, or taking out the top row of flues, and in boilers that have no steam dome, a long dry pipe with perforated top may be of benefit.

Q. What are other causes and remedies for priming?

A. The piston rings may leak badly. If they do, they should be replaced, or made to fit cylinder perfectly. The cylinder may be badly cut by the rings. If it is, it should be re-bored and new piston rings put in.

The slide valve may be cut, and leak. In this case the valve will need re-planing and scraping, also the valve seat. If the valve is not properly set, it may also cause priming. The exhaust nozzle may be clogged with burnt oil and sediment; if it is, clean it out thoroughly.

FIRING WITH WOOD.

Always keep a level fire. Fill every open space as fast as the wood burns out. Allow as little cold air to pass through the fire as possible. _Never stir a wood fire._ Fire quickly, and keep the door shut as much as possible.

FIRING WITH STRAW.

To start the fire, push a small forkful of dry straw into funnel in fire door, leaving the small end of funnel pressed full; then touch the match to it. Begin at once to push in the straw regularly, a small quantity at a time, being very careful not to clog the main flue, and allowing ample time for straw to burn.

The fire should be raked down frequently, as the burned straw leaves a charred mass over the grates. This should be done when the funnel is full of straw, thus allowing no cold air to pass through the funnel into the main flue. Clean out the ash pan frequently, so that the natural draught may not be checked. Do not open blower until gauge shows ten or fifteen pounds steam pressure.

After steam is raised to the necessary pressure, the feeding should be regular, using small forkfuls of straw, keeping the funnel full all the time, and raking down at short intervals. Use as dry straw as it is possible to obtain.

The above will apply to any style or make of straw-burning engines.

FIRING WITH COAL.

After fire is well started with wood, throw coal into the center of grate, and do not disturb it until it is well ignited and burning briskly; then break the fire down and put in a shovel or two of coal, and so continue keeping the grates covered with a thin layer.

Always aim to put in fresh coal on a rising head of steam pressure. Never pile coal against the flue sheet or keep the fire box too full. Nothing is gained by the latter, but much is lost.

Q. Which is the more economical to burn, wet or dry coal?

A. Dry. If your coal is wet, you simply have to evaporate that much more water, which goes out of the stack instead of to the engine.

Q. How much water will one pound of coal evaporate?

A. One pound of coal will, under very favorable circumstances, evaporate twelve pounds of water, but the average evaporative power of anthracite coal is 9½ pounds of water, and semi-bituminous coal is 9⁹/₁₀ pounds.

Q. If cold air is allowed to strike the flue sheet and flues, what is the result?

A. It will eventually cause them to leak.

Q. How should a fire be regulated in case of temporary stoppage by accident or otherwise under full head of steam?

A. Close the damper and keep the fire door closed; then open small door in smoke box or the damper in chimney.

Q. Why not leave the fire door open?

A. Because it would allow the cold air to come in contact with flue sheet and flues, and consequent damage to boiler.

BANKING FIRES.

To bank a fire in a furnace, push the fire in a heap at the back of the furnace against the flue sheet; leaving a large portion of the grate open, to allow the air caused by the natural draught to pass up over the fire to the flues; then cover it over with fine coal or a layer of dry ashes, and see that the draught door is closed to prevent draught as much as possible.

This being done, the fire will last over night, and when ready to start again in the morning, all that is necessary to do is to rake the fire over the grates, open the damper and apply more fuel.

Q. What benefit is derived from banking the fire?

A. By banking the fire, the water in the boiler is kept warm over night and steam is raised quickly in the morning, saving time and fuel.

Q. When leaving a banked fire, is it practicable to shut the water out of the glass or water column?

A. Yes. In freezing weather, this may be done by closing the valve at the top and bottom of the glass; and open pet cock beneath. Care should be taken, however, to open them before the fire is started in the morning.

LAYING UP A TRACTION ENGINE.

Q. How should you prepare your engine and boiler for laying up through the winter, to protect them from frost and injury?

A. While steam is on, clean your boiler and engine thoroughly outside, scrape off all oil, grease and scale; after which apply a good coat of asphaltum paint to the boiler and smoke stack. If no paint can be had, lamp black and linseed oil will answer. If this cannot be had, take rags, saturate them with grease or oil, and go over them with that.

Now open the blow-off valve, and blow the water off with a low pressure of steam, after which take out all the hand-hole plates and wash the boiler out thoroughly, removing all the mud and scale; then replace the hand-hole plates, close the blow-off valve and fill the boiler nearly full of water, after which pour in a gallon of black oil upon the water.

After this is done, open the blow-off valve again and allow the water to run out. The oil will follow the water down and cover the whole inside of boiler with a coating of oil, making as good a protection against rust as can be found.

Next, remove all the brass fittings, such as lubricator, steam gauge, safety valve, injector, check valves, pump valves, gauge cocks, water gauge, etc., etc.

Disconnect all pipes where water may lodge, in order to prevent freezing. Every pipe and valve allowed to freeze will surely burst. Unscrew all stuffing boxes and remove the packing; for unless this is done, another season you will find parts badly rusted where the packing was allowed to remain.

Take off all cylinder cocks, pet cocks, etc., from the heater and pump. All fittings should be carefully packed and laid away. Clean the flues and fire box, also the ash pan, and do not neglect to paint the ash pan both inside and outside.

Remove the back cylinder head, roll the engine forward and smear the inside of cylinder with tallow, or oil if no tallow can be had. Place the head back again and smear all the bright work, such as piston rod, connecting rod, etc., with grease. Do not forget to cover top of smoke stack, to keep out water and snow.

If the foregoing directions are followed carefully you will find another season that your engine will be clean, free from rust and ready to serve you faithfully without any trouble or delay in starting, either in time or expense.

BELTING.

Do not tax belts by overloading. Keep them free from accumulation of dust, grease and all animal oils, as these are injurious to both rubber and leather belts.

Special care should be taken to protect the edges of rubber belts from all animal oils, as they are liable to rot the belt.

Always run the grain (or hair) side of leather belts on the pulley, as it gives greater driving power, hugs the pulley closer, is less liable to slip, and will drive 30 per cent. more than the flesh side.

Rubber belts will be greatly improved and their life prolonged, by putting on with a brush, and letting it dry, the following mixture:

Equal parts of black lead and litharge mixed with boiled oil; add enough Japan to dry it quickly. In case the rubber peels off, the same mixture can be used.

In comparison to leather belts, 4-ply rubber is equivalent to a single leather belt and 6-ply rubber to double leather belt.

=To find the length of a belt=, add the diameter of the two pulleys together, divide the result by 2 and multiply the quotient by 3¹/₇; then add to this product twice the distance between the centers of shafts.

=When piecing a belt when pulleys are changed=, multiply the difference of the diameters of the pulleys by 1½, the product will be the length of the piece required.

The seam side of rubber belt should always be placed outside and not next to pulley. In case the belt slips, coat the side next to pulley with boiled linseed oil or soap.

=In lacing a belt=, begin in the center and be careful to keep both ends exactly in line. Lace both ends equally tight and do not cross the lace on the pulley side of belt. Great care should be taken that the ends butting together be cut perfectly square; if not, the belt will stretch more on one side than the other, which greatly impairs its worth.

Q. What is the practical limit of belt speed?

A. Belts should not be run much over 5000 feet per minute.

Q. How then is the capacity of a belt affected by its speed?

A. It varies directly as the speed. A given belt will transmit twice the horse-power if its speed is doubled within limits.

Q. Is the capacity of a belt affected by its width?

A. Yes, the capacity varies directly as the width. If a two inch belt will transmit one horse-power, two such belts will transmit two horse power; and this is true whether they are run separately or joined into a four inch belt.

To preserve cotton or Gandy belting, apply with a brush a little common paint to pulley side of belt while running, to be followed shortly afterwards by a little soft oil or grease to preserve its flexibility.

If the edges of the belt become frayed from the use of belt guides or forks, the loose threads may be cut off without injury to the belt.

If the belt slips at first, consequent to the surface being ruffled by unrolling, apply a little grease, oil or soap to the pulley side to make it grip.

ARMINGTON & SIMS HIGH SPEED ENGINE.

The cylinder and steam chest of this engine are cast in one piece and bolted securely to the engine frame, which forms the front cylinder head. The cylinder is lagged with mineral wool and jacketed to prevent radiation, and it is overhanging and self-lining.

The valve is a hollow piston valve, the body of which is steel tubing with cast iron ends. It receives its motion from the shaft governor, attached to one of the band wheels, which regulates the cut-off automatically according to the variation of load. The steam is exhausted at each end of the valve by very direct passages which quickly free the cylinder, preventing back pressure.

The engine frame is cast heavy and rigid, and contains the locomotive guides for cross-head and the pillow block bearings for the crank shaft.

The double disc center crank shafts allow of two small heavy band wheels being used.

The base of this engine is cast in one piece, to which the engine frame is securely bolted, and with this arrangement, the engine needs no expensive foundation.

The engine is simple and self-contained, ranging in sizes from 11 to 450 horse-power, and is intended to run at the very high speed of from two hundred to three hundred and fifty revolutions per minute according to size, and is used extensively in driving electric lighting machinery, and where high speed and continuous work is desired.

GENERAL INFORMATION.

_Never condemn an engine_ that is entirely new to you because it does not start off at your first effort. Study all the directions furnished by the maker. Perhaps you have overlooked some points that are of more importance than you imagine.

The above will apply to other machinery as well as engines.

_When starting a new engine_ be sure that everything is in readiness. Turn it over by hand to see that all the revolving and reciprocating parts run freely. Start it very slowly under steam pressure and apply plenty of good oil. After it has run a short time and everything is working properly turn on more steam and continue to do so until the engine is running at its rated speed. To start it at full speed under steam pressure may result in great damage or totally destroy the engine.

_An accurate machine_ which is thoroughly reliable is necessarily costly, but is of more value than another which merely serves a purpose.

_Engineers or firemen_ in charge of a steam boiler should blow out the water gauge and gauge cocks every morning in order to remove the soft mud which settles in them at night when the boiler is at rest. If this is neglected, the soft mud may become baked in them which might lead to disastrous results.

_Every steam boiler_ for whatever purpose employed, should be opened, cleaned, thoroughly examined and tested at least every six months, and with muddy feed water once a week would not be too often.

_By blowing out_ the gauge cocks regularly you not only ascertain the height of the water in the boiler, but it prevents them from becoming choked with sediment or mud.

_Do not allow_ the gauge cocks, glass water gauge or steam gauge to become filthy, as it shows lack of care, and furnishes evidence that the engineer who is not particular in this part of his duty is not reliable in others of equal or more importance.

_Upon entering_ the boiler room in the morning an engineer or fireman should always ascertain whether the valves or cocks which connect the water gauge with the boiler are open or shut, otherwise he may be deceived by the appearance of the water in the tube. This precaution should never be neglected.

_If an engineer or fireman discovers_ that there is too much water in the boiler he should blow it down to the proper level, but in doing so he must exercise judgment, vigilance and care, especially if there is a fire in the furnace.

_Never allow the gauge cocks_ to leak at all when it is practicable to repair them, for the longer they leak the more difficult they are to repair, as under the escape of water or steam the metal wastes rapidly.

_An engineer or fireman_ should often remove the ashes from under the boiler, or from ash pan; if allowed to accumulate, they retard the draft and interfere with combustion, thereby causing waste of fuel and interfere with the evaporating efficiency of the boiler. Also keep grates clear of clinkers; for if allowed to accumulate, they produce the same result.

_Should it become necessary_ to blow down the water at intervals, the engineer or fireman should stand by the blow-off cock and not allow his attention to be diverted to anything else, as in a very short space of time the water may become so low as to induce stoppage or endanger the safety of the boiler.

_Engineers should_ always be cautious when they stop or start an engine with a heavy pressure of steam in the boiler, as the vent given to the steam when starting, and the check it receives when stopping, may exert such a pressure as to strain, crack, or rupture the boiler.

_The drip cocks_ in the cylinder should be left open when the engine is standing still, and they should not be closed until after the engine has been started and made several strokes or revolutions.

_Do not open the throttle valve_ to its full extent in starting after the engine has been standing over night, as the quantity of steam condensed by being brought in contact with the cold pipe (particularly if it is a long one) may result in breaking the follower plate, springing the piston rod, or knocking out the cylinder head.

_After opening the gauge cocks_ to ascertain the height of water in the boiler, they should be closed tightly to prevent leakage.

_It may have been discovered_ that when gauge cocks are closed after being blown out, they leak badly; this is often due to the fact that mud or sand has become attached to the seat of the valve. The easiest way to remedy this difficulty is to open the cocks and let them blow out for some time, as the friction of the water in its escape will in all probability remove the obstacle.

_Glass water gauges_ may be cleansed by removing the glass; then tying a piece of cotton waste or lamp wicking to a splint of wood, applying soap or acetic acid, and passing it through the inside of the tube; then replace the glass, and when steam is raised close the lower valve, open the drip cock, and the steam blowing through will wash the glass perfectly.

_To cut a glass gauge tube._—If a glass gauge is too long, take a three-cornered file and wet it, hold the tube in the left hand with the thumb and fore-finger at the place where you wish to cut, saw it quickly and lightly two or three times with the edge of the file, and it will mark the glass. Now, take the tube in both hands, both thumbs being on opposite sides of the mark and about an inch apart, then try to bend the glass, using your thumbs as fulcrums and it will break at the mark which has weakened the tube.

_Never touch_ the inside of the water gauge glass with iron or wire, as while the glass may be cut on the outside with a file, the slightest touch of steel or iron on the inside will cause an abrasion, the result of which is that the glass will crack and become useless.

_Water gauge glasses_ frequently break because the steam and water connections are not in line, because the stuffing boxes are screwed down too tight, and sometimes in cold weather when struck by a cold draught of air admitted through an open door or window.

_An engineer or fireman should_ never fill a boiler with cold water while the boiler is hot, as the injurious effect produced by contraction is similar to that produced by blowing out at a high pressure, and if persisted in will result in permanent injury to the boiler.

_Exhaust steam will heat_ water to 212° Fahr. under atmospheric pressure.

_Ten degrees extra heat_ in feed water means one per cent. saving in fuel.

_Before blowing out the boiler_ the engineer or fireman should remove all the fire from the furnace, as a small quantity left in the corners, or attached to the bridge wall, might spring a seam or cause a plate to bulge.

_Every engineer should know_ that unequal expansion and contraction is one of the evils which limit the longevity and endanger the safety of all classes of steam boilers; consequently the blowing out, the refilling, the starting of fires and the regulation of the draught should be done with judgment.

_It is not necessary_ to fill a boiler with cold water above the second gauge cock, as the water expands under the process of the formation of steam and it will be found that there is a sufficiency of water in the boiler when steam is raised.

_Single riveted seams_ are equal to 56% of the original strength of the sheet; double riveted seams are equal to 70%, and triple riveted seams are equal to 85%. Triple riveted seams, however, are very seldom used unless for some special purpose, as they are too heavy and thick, and would burn out rapidly if exposed to fire.

_In making calculations_ on the strength of boilers, the factor 56 should be employed instead of 100, as 44% of the strength of the plate is lost by punching the holes for the rivets.

_It should be understood_ that machine riveted seams in steam boilers are superior to hand made seams, as the machine thoroughly upsets the rivet and brings the two sheets in such close contact as to produce friction between the sheets at the lap, which of itself is an element of strength.

_Boilers do not improve_ by standing idle; they will rust very rapidly.

_Never use sharp chisels_ to cut the scale from boiler plate, as the cutting of the plate does more harm than good. Use only a light hammer.

_In patching a boiler_ be careful not to make a pocket in which sediment may collect to cause another injury to the sheet and never put a steel patch upon an iron boiler as the two metals expanding unequally will induce trouble.

_Never forget_ to allow for expansion when running long lines of steam pipe, whether for heating or power, as the neglect of this precaution leads to the formation of immense crooks or bends in the line of pipe wonderful to behold. There must be a slip joint somewhere in long lines of steam piping, unless expansion is allowed for.

_Valves stick_ on their seats because they are frequently shut when cold, and when heated by the steam the valve stem becomes lengthened, and presses the valve hard into the seat.

GEISER TRACTION ENGINE.

The cut opposite represents the right side of the Peerless, Side Crank, Rear Gear Traction Engine.

The main engine frame is of the girder pattern, and contains the guides and pillow block bearing. It also forms the front cylinder head, to which the cylinder is bolted. The cylinder is overhanging, and connected to the long feed water heater by the exhaust pipe.

The valve is of the piston type. The reverse gear is the Landis Patent Reverse and Variable Cut-off. It has the Cross-head Pump connected with a long Feed Water Heater, Governor, Injector, and the locomotive style of boiler swings in an iron frame, to which it is attached, and rests upon springs at both back and front ends.

The smoke stack is water lined, and traction wheels have wrought iron rims with high grouters and wood spokes. The platform has two steel tanks for water and tools, and the steering wheel and band wheel are on opposite sides of the engine.

_Slide valves should be fitted_ to their seats by filing and scraping, and never by the use of emery and oil. The piston rod and valve rod may be packed with braids of hemp or cotton wicking, with rings cut from patent packing of various kinds or metallic packing.

_To clean brass articles_ with acid is a great mistake, as with such treatment they very soon become dull. Sweet oil and putty powder followed by soap and water, is one of the best mediums for brightening brass and copper.

_To frost brass work_ and give it an ornamental finish, boil the article in caustic potash, rinse in clean water and dip in nitric acid until all oxide is removed; then wash quickly, dry in box-wood sawdust, and lacquer while warm.

_The best material_ for grinding in valves and stop cocks is pulverized glass. It is superior to emery for this purpose. Fine sand may be used.

_To remedy a leaky_ angle, check or globe valve, it should be taken apart, and the valves ground to fit their seats properly with either fine sand, pulverized glass or emery.

_A lever stuck_ between the spokes of the fly-wheel of an engine for the purpose of starting it, is a very dangerous instrument, it is liable to get caught and do a great amount of damage. If a lever is to be used, be sure that the steam is first turned off.

_A cubic inch of water_ evaporated under ordinary atmospheric pressure is converted into one cubic foot of steam (approximately).

_Steam at atmospheric pressure_ flows into a vacuum at the rate of about 1550 feet per second, and into the atmosphere at the rate of 650 feet per second.

_Condensing engines require_ from 20 to 30 gallons of water to condense the steam represented by every gallon of water evaporated—approximately; for most engines we say from 1 to 1½ gallons per minute per indicated horse-power. Jet condensers do not require quite as much water for condensing as surface condensers. Surface condensers require about 2 square feet of tube (cooling) surface per horse-power of steam engine.

_The best designed boilers_ well set, with good draught and skillful firing, will evaporate from 7 to 10 lbs. of water per pound of first-class coal. The average result is from 25 to 60 per cent. below this.