Part 1

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Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_).

United States Department of the Interior Harold L. Ickes, Secretary

National Park Service Arno B. Cammerer, Director

YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK CALIFORNIA

Open All Year

United States Government Printing Office Washington : 1935

WELCOME TO YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK

In bidding you welcome the National Park Service asks you to remember that you are visiting a great playground that belongs in part to you, and that while you are at liberty to go anywhere in the park with perfect freedom, you owe it to yourself and to your fellow citizens not to do anything that will injure the trees, the wild animals or birds, or any of the natural features of the park.

The park regulations are designed for the protection of the natural beauties and scenery as well as for the comfort and convenience of visitors. The following synopsis is for the general guidance of visitors, who are requested to assist the administration by observing the rules.

RULES AND REGULATIONS (Briefed)

Fires.—Light carefully and in designated places. Extinguish COMPLETELY before leaving camp even for temporary absence. Do not guess your fire is out—KNOW IT. Do not throw burning tobacco or matches on road or trail sides.

Camps.—Register at camp entrance. Keep your camp clean. Burn all combustible material and place all garbage in cans provided. Camp at least 25 feet from other tents, buildings, or water hydrants.

Trash.—Do not throw paper, lunch refuse, kodak cartons or paper, chewing-gum paper, or other trash on roads, trails, or elsewhere. Ball up and carry until you can burn in camp or place in receptacle.

Trees, Flowers, and Animals.—The destruction, injury, or disturbance in any way of the trees, flowers, birds, or animals is prohibited. Dead and fallen wood, except sequoia, may be used for firewood.

Noises.—Be quiet in camp after others have gone to bed. Many people come here for rest.

Automobiles.—Speed limit in park is 35 miles per hour. Drive carefully at all times. Keep cut-outs closed. Obey park traffic rules. Secure automobile permit, fee $2.

Park Rangers.—The rangers are here to help and advise you as well as to enforce the regulations. When in doubt ask a ranger.

Warning About Bears.—Do not feed the bears from the hand; they are wild animals and may bite, strike, or scratch you. They will not harm you if not fed at close range. Bears will enter or break into automobiles if food that they can smell is left inside. They will also rob your camp of unprotected food supplies, especially in the early spring or late fall when food is scarce. It is best to suspend food supplies in a box well out of their reach between two trees. Bears are especially hungry in the fall of the year and serious loss or damage may result if food is left accessible to them.

All articles lost or found should be reported to the ranger headquarters in the New Village, to any ranger station, or to the offices at Camp Curry, Yosemite Lodge, or the Ahwahnee. Persons should leave their name and address so that articles which are not claimed within 60 days may be turned over to the finders.

Suggestions, complaints, or comments regarding any phase of park management, including the operation of camp grounds, hotels, and attitude of employees, should be communicated immediately to the superintendent.

C. G. Thomson, _Superintendent_.

CONTENTS

PAGE The Yosemite Valley 1 How the Valley Was Formed 3 Waterfalls 3 Altitude of Summits Inclosing Yosemite Valley 6 Height of Waterfalls 4 Glacier Point and the Rim of Yosemite Valley 4 The Big Trees 7 The Wawona Basin 8 Hetch Hetchy Valley 8 Tuolumne Meadows 10 Pate Valley 11 The Northern Canyons 12 The Mountain Climax of the Sierra 12 Merced and Washburn Lakes 13 Climate and Seasons 13 Winter Sports 14 Trails and Hikes 15 Fishing 17 How to Reach the Park 20 By Automobile 20 By Railroad and Auto Stage 22 By Airplane 22 Administration 23 Information Bureau 23 Free Educational Service 23 Museum 24 Yosemite Field School of Natural History 26 Ranger-Naturalist Outpost 26 Accommodations for Visitors 26 Free Public Camp Grounds 26 Hotels, Lodges, Housekeeping Cabins, and Camps 27 Yosemite Transportation System 30 Stage Trips 31 Saddle Trips 31-32 Valley Floor Rides 32 Stores and News Stands 32 Photographic Service 32 Laundries 33 Barber Shops 33 Garage Service 33 Children’s Playground 34 Postal Service 34 Express Service 35 Telephone and Telegraph Service 35 Medical and Hospital Service 35 Church Services 35 References 36 Publications for Sale at Museum 37 Government Publications 40

IMPORTANT EVENTS IN YOSEMITE’S HISTORY

1851. Mariposa Battalion discovered Yosemite Valley from Inspiration Point, March 25. Name “Yosemite Valley” applied. 1855. J. M. Hutchings organized first party of sightseers to enter Yosemite Valley. 1856. “Lower Hotel”, first permanent structure, built by Walworth and Hite at base of Sentinel Rock. 1858. Cedar Cottage built; still in use. 1864. Yosemite Valley and Mariposa Big Trees granted to California as a State park. 1868. John Muir made his first trip to Yosemite. 1871. Conway started work on Four-Mile Trail to Glacier Point. Finished in 1872. 1874. Coulterville Road built to Valley floor. Big Oak Flat route completed to Yosemite Valley. 1875. Wawona Road built to floor of Yosemite Valley. 1876. Sentinel Hotel built. 1881. Tunnel cut through Wawona Tree. 1882. Tioga Road constructed. John Conway built Glacier Point Road. 1890. Yosemite National Park created October 1. 1891. Capt. A. E. Wood, first park superintendent, arrived with Federal troops to administer park, May 17. Headquarters at Wawona. 1899. Camp Curry established. 1900. Holmes Brothers, of San Jose, drove first automobile (a Stanley Steamer) into Yosemite over the Wawona Road. 1906. Yosemite Valley and Mariposa Grove receded to United States. Superintendent’s headquarters (Maj. H. C. Benson, superintendent) moved to Yosemite Valley. 1907. Yosemite Valley Railroad opened for travel to El Portal. Visitors, 7,102. 1913. Automobiles admitted to Yosemite Valley. 1914. Civilian employees replaced military in administration of park. Visitors, 15,154. 1915. Stephen T. Mather purchased Tioga Road; presented it to Federal Government. 1916. National Park Service Act passed August 25. 1917. Stephen T. Mather made Director of the National Park Service. Glacier Point Hotel built and opened. 1919. First airplane landed in Yosemite Valley, May 27, Lt. J. S. Krull, pilot, alone. 1920. Construction started on All-Year Highway up Merced Canyon. Visitors, 68,906. 1923. Hikers’ camps installed. Visitors, 130,046. 1924. New administration center and village developed. 1925. Yosemite Park & Curry Co. formed by consolidation of Curry Camping Co. and Yosemite National Park Co. Park visitors, 209,166. 1926. All-Year Highway completed and dedicated July 31. 1927. Ahwahnee Hotel opened by Yosemite Park & Curry Co. The second largest travel year in park history—490,430 visitors. 1930. Reconstruction of log cabin in Mariposa Grove to house Museum of Big Trees. Park visitors, 458,566. 1931. Construction of 4,233-foot tunnel through Turtleback Dome for new Wawona Road. 1932. Wawona basin of 14 square miles added to the park. New Wawona Road and tunnel completed. Big Trees Lodge constructed. Largest travel year in park history—498,289 visitors.

WHAT TO DO AND SEE IN YOSEMITE

Here are a few suggestions to help you plan your time in Yosemite to best advantage. This is a summer schedule—in winter see special programs posted on bulletin boards at hotels.

Do not hurry through Yosemite—take the time to at least visit all points of interest in the Valley and do not leave the park without seeing the Mariposa Grove of Big Trees and the wonderful panoramic view from Glacier Point.

GENERAL

Visit the Yosemite Museum, located in the New Village, open 8 a. m. to 5 p. m. Interesting exhibits of the geology, Indians, early history, trees, flowers, birds, and mammals of Yosemite. Wild-flower garden and demonstrations of native Indian life in back of museum. Short talks on geology of the Valley given several times each day. Library, information desk, and headquarters for nature guide service. Maps and booklets.

Take the auto caravan tour of the Valley floor with your own car, starting from the museum at 9:30 a. m. and 2 p. m. A ranger-naturalist leads the caravan and explains the interesting features of Yosemite on this free trip of about 2 hours around the Valley, every day except Sunday and holidays.

A daily tour of the Valley in open stages is an ideal way to see the most in a short time. Inquire at Camp Curry, Yosemite Lodge, or the Ahwahnee for rates and schedules on stage transportation.

Visitors desiring to make an unescorted tour of the Valley should take the Valley floor loop road, stopping at points of interest which are signed. See detailed map of Valley. See the wonderful view of the whole expanse of the Valley from the east portal of the 4,233-foot tunnel, a short, easy drive of 1½ miles up the new Wawona Road, just west of Bridalveil Fall.

Take trips afield with a ranger-naturalist. See posted daily schedules.

During July and August a naturalist leads a party once each week on a 7-day hiking trip through the spectacular high-mountain regions of the park, stopping each night at a High Sierra camp. See bulletins posted at hotels and camps.

Visit the fish hatchery at Happy Isles.

See the sunrise at Mirror Lake.

Camp-fire entertainments every night except Sunday in Camp 14.

Outdoor entertainments every evening at 8 o’clock at Camp Curry.

See the fire fall each night at 9 o’clock from the upper end of the Valley or at Camp Curry.

Bears are fed every evening at 9:30 o’clock about 2 miles west of the Old Village.

Dances every evening except Sunday at 9 o’clock at Camp Curry.

See complete programs of weekly events which are posted at camps, hotels, and lodges.

Visit Yosemite both summer and winter—The all-year highway is open every day of the year. Keep your Yosemite automobile permit—it is good for the entire year. Each season has its particular charm.

In spring—booming waterfalls, rushing streams, green meadows.

In summer—ideal camping, High Sierra trips, good fishing.

In autumn—beautiful autumn coloring, ideal Indian summer weather.

In winter—a different Yosemite, with snow mantling trees and cliffs, all-winter sports—skating, skiing, tobogganing.

1-DAY MOTOR TRIPS

To Glacier Point.—Thirty miles (about 1½ hours) each way. Paved highway to Chinquapin, 14 miles, and good oiled road from there to Glacier Point. Leave the Valley on the Wawona Road just west of Bridalveil Fall. Visit Sentinel Dome, elevation 8,117 feet—a one-half mile drive and short climb from the main road above Glacier Point. Wonderful panorama of the High Sierra and the Valley. Camp ground and hotel at Glacier Point.

To the Mariposa Grove of Big Trees.—Thirty-five miles (about 1½ hours) each way. Paved highway. Leave the Valley just west of Bridalveil Fall; go through the 4,233-foot tunnel; wonderful views along this road. Hotels, camp ground, garage, golf, saddle horses at Wawona, 27 miles from the Valley. See the oldest and largest living things in the world and the tunnel tree through which cars may be driven. There is a new hotel and good camp ground at the Big Trees.

To Hetch Hetchy Dam and Valley.—Thirty-eight miles (about 2 hours) each way. Good, oiled, mountain road. Leave the Valley at El Capitan station; one-way road for first 4 miles, and cars must leave on the even hours-6 to 6:25 a. m., 8 to 8:25 a. m., 10 to 10:25 a. m., and so on throughout the day. See the Tuolumne Grove of Big Trees and visit the fire lookout tower, 1½ miles west of Crane Flat.

Also Daily Stages to These Scenic Points; Inquire at Hotels.

1-DAY HIKES FROM VALLEY—DISTANCES GIVEN ONE WAY

To Sierra Point.—Marvelous view of four waterfalls and Valley. Three-fourths of a mile of steep trail branching off the Vernal Fall Trail, just above Happy Isles (about 2-hour trip, not a horse trail).

To Vernal Fall.—One and six-tenths miles from start of the trail at Happy Isles.

To Nevada Fall.—Three and four-tenths miles from start of the trail at Happy Isles.

To Glacier Point.—Eight and three-tenths miles from start of the trail at Happy Isles (via the long trail by Vernal and Nevada Falls, Panorama Cliff, and Illilouette Fall).

To Glacier Point (via “Four Mile Trail”).—Four and six-tenths miles from start of trail, 1 mile west of Old Village.

To Top of Half Dome.—Seven and seven-tenths miles from start of trail at Happy Isles, via Vernal and Nevada Falls; 900 feet of steel cables on climb up Dome.

To Top of Yosemite Falls.—Three and six-tenths miles from start of trail, one-fourth mile west of Yosemite Lodge. Eagle Peak is 2.6 miles farther on.

Saddle trips daily to most of these points. Inquire at hotels or stables for horses.

A taxi service is available for all hikers, to and from the start of trails in the upper half of the Valley, at 25 cents per person. Telephones are available at base of all trails.

All hikers are warned to stay on designated trails—do not take short cuts across zigzags; you may dislodge rocks that will injure someone below. On the long hikes to the rim of the Valley, start early when it is cool and get back before dark. Hikers going into isolated sections of the park or off the regular trails should register at the chief ranger’s office before starting.

Accurate information on roads, trails, fishing, and camping, and maps of the park are available without charge at park headquarters, the museum, and ranger stations.

YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK

The Yosemite National Park is much greater, both in area and beauty, than is generally known. Nearly all Americans who have not explored it consider it identical with the far-famed Yosemite Valley. The fact is that the Valley is only a very small part, indeed, of this glorious public pleasure ground. It was established October 1, 1890, but its boundary lines have been changed several times since then. It now has an area of 1,176.16 square miles, 752,744 acres.

This magnificent pleasure land lies on the west slope of the Sierra Nevada about 200 miles due east of San Francisco. The crest of the range is its eastern boundary as far south as Mount Lyell. The rivers which water it originate in the everlasting snows. A thousand icy streams converge to form them. They flow west through a marvelous sea of peaks, resting by the way in hundreds of snow-bordered lakes, romping through luxuriant valleys, rushing turbulently over rocky heights, swinging in and out of the shadows of mighty mountains.

The Yosemite Valley occupies 8 square miles out of a total of 1,176 square miles in the Yosemite National Park. The park above the rim is less celebrated principally because it is less known. It is less known principally because it was not opened to the public by motor road until 1915. Now several roads and 700 miles of trail make much of the spectacular high-mountain region of the park easily accessible.

For the rest, the park includes, in John Muir’s words, “the headwaters of the Tuolumne and Merced Rivers, two of the most songful streams in the world; innumerable lakes and waterfalls and smooth silky lawns; the noblest forests, the loftiest granite domes, the deepest ice-sculptured canyons, the brightest crystalline pavements, and snowy mountains soaring into the sky twelve and thirteen thousand feet, arrayed in open ranks and spiry pinnacled groups partially separated by tremendous canyons and amphitheaters; gardens on their sunny brows, avalanches thundering down their long white slopes, cataracts roaring gray and foaming in the crooked, rugged gorges, and glaciers in their shadowy recesses, working in silence, slowly completing their sculptures; new-born lakes at their feet, blue and green, free or encumbered with drifting icebergs like miniature Arctic Oceans, shining, sparkling, calm as stars.”

THE YOSEMITE VALLEY

Little need be said of the Yosemite Valley. After these many years of visitation and exploration it remains incomparable. It is often said that the Sierra contains “many Yosemites,” but there is no other of its superabundance of sheer beauty. It has been so celebrated in book and magazine and newspaper that the Three Brothers, El Capitan, Bridalveil Fall, Cathedral Spires, Mirror Lake, Half Dome, and Glacier Point are old familiar friends to millions who have never seen them except in picture.

The Yosemite Valley was discovered in 1851 as an incidental result of the effort to settle Indian problems which had arisen in that region. Dr. L. H. Bunnel, a member of the expedition, suggested the appropriateness of naming it after the aborigines who dwelt there. It rapidly became celebrated.

No matter what their expectation, most visitors are delightfully astonished upon entering the Yosemite Valley. The sheer immensity of the precipices on either side of the Valley’s peaceful floor; the loftiness and the romantic suggestion of the numerous waterfalls; the majesty of the granite walls; and the unreal, almost fairy quality of the ever-varying whole cannot be successfully foretold. The Valley is 7 miles long. Its floor averages 1 mile in width, its walls rising from 3,000 to 4,000 feet.

HOW THE VALLEY WAS FORMED

After the visitor has recovered from his first shock of astonishment—for it is no less—at the beauty of the Valley, inevitably he wonders how nature made it. How did it happen that walls so enormous rise so nearly perpendicular from the level floor of the Valley?

When the Sierra Nevada was formed by the gradual tipping of a great block of the earth’s crust 400 miles long and 80 miles wide, streams draining this block were pitched very definitely toward the west and with torrential force cut deep canyons. The period of tipping and stream erosion covered so many thousands of centuries that the Merced River was able to wear away the sedimentary rocks several thousand feet in thickness, which covered the granite and then in the Yosemite Valley region to cut some 2,000 feet into this very hard granite. Meantime the north and south flowing side streams of the Merced, such as Yosemite Creek, not benefited by the tipping of the Sierra block, could not cut as fast as their parent stream and so were left high up as hanging valleys.

During the Ice Age great glaciers formed at the crest of the range and flowed down these streams, cutting deep canyons and especially widening them. At the maximum period the ice came within 700 feet of the top of Half Dome. It overrode Glacier Point and extended perhaps a mile below El Portal. Glaciers deepened Yosemite Valley 500 feet at the lower end and 1,500 feet opposite Glacier Point; then widened it 1,000 feet at the lower end and 3,600 feet in the upper half. The V-shaped canyon which had resulted from stream erosion was now changed to a U-shaped trough; the Yosemite Cataract was changed to Yosemite Fall. As the last glacier melted back from the Valley a lake was formed, the filling in of which by sediments has produced the practically level floor now found from El Capitan to Half Dome.

Visitors to the park should join an auto caravan to study evidences first hand and hear the story of the geology of Yosemite discussed by the ranger-naturalists.

WATERFALLS

The depth to which the Valley was cut by streams and glaciers is measured roughly by the extraordinary height of the waterfalls which pour over the rim.

The Upper Yosemite Fall, for instance, drops 1,430 feet in one sheer fall, a height equal to nine Niagara Falls piled one on top of the other. The Lower Yosemite Fall, immediately below, has a drop of 320 feet, or two Niagaras more. Counting the series of cascades in between, the total drop from the crest of Yosemite Fall to the Valley floor is 2,565 feet. Vernal Fall has a drop of 317 feet; Illilouette Fall, 370 feet. The Nevada Fall drops 594 feet sheer; the celebrated Bridalveil Fall, 620 feet; while the Ribbon Fall, highest of all, drops 1,612 feet sheer, a straight fall nearly 10 times as high as Niagara. Nowhere else in the world may be seen a water spectacle such as this.