Part 1

YORK

Described by George Benson Pictured by E. W. Haslehust

BLACKIE & SON LIMITED LONDON AND GLASGOW

BLACKIE & SON LIMITED _16/18 William IV Street, Charing Cross, London, W.C.2_ _17 Stanhope Street, Glasgow_

BLACKIE & SON (INDIA) LIMITED _103/5 Fort Street, Bombay_

BLACKIE & SON (CANADA) LIMITED _Toronto_

BEAUTIFUL ENGLAND

Each book contains Twelve Reproductions of Watercolour Paintings by E. W. Haslehust, R.B.A.

Heart of London. Cornish Riviera. Dartmoor. Canterbury. Shakespeare-land. Windsor Castle. Dickens-land. The New Forest. Hampton Court. Oxford. Cambridge. York. English Lakes. The Thames. Bath and Wells. Peak District. Winchester. In London’s Byways. Rambles in Greater London. Through London’s Highways. Warwick and Leamington. Norwich and the Broads.

BEAUTIFUL SCOTLAND

Loch Lomond. Edinburgh. The Scott Country. Shores of Fife.

_Printed in Great Britain by Blackie & Son, Ltd., Glasgow_

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Facing Page

The Water-Gates, Lendal Bridge _Frontispiece_

Micklegate Bar 5

Bootham Bar 12

Fishergate Postern from the Walls 16

The Shambles 21

Norman Porch, St. Lawrence’s Tower 28

York Minster 33

York from the City Walls 37

Entrance to the Banqueting Hall, King’s Manor 44

York from the Ouse 48

College Street, St. William’s College and Chapter House 53

Ruins of St. Mary’s Abbey 60

Plan of York Cathedral 46

THE CITY

As each town has its characteristic features and peculiar advantages, we may ask what it is that constitutes the special attraction exerted by the city of York, not only upon those, who with more or less of appreciation dwell within its limits but upon its visitors. It would seem that if there is one thing which can be done at York better almost than anywhere else in the kingdom, that thing is the realisation of history. It is in this, above all, that the charm lies.

A walled-in city offers great attractions to the student of history, who is desirous of understanding mediaeval ways and methods, for although documents and quaint pictures may give a fair idea, it is the walls, gates, churches, and houses that lend the necessary vividness and reality. Other once-fortified cities have destroyed their walls as being useless, and those at York have from time to time barely escaped destruction.

The stranger, as he walks out of the railway station, is agreeably surprised to find these ancient fortifications immediately presented to his gaze. This surprise view enchants the lover of the picturesque, he is captivated by the beauty of the scene; and York adds another to her numerous admirers. The creamy-grey embattled walls, set on a grassy mound, command attention. The imagination is aroused, the spectator pictures the moat filled with water and mentally recalls the archers, clad in armour and leather jerkins, passing behind the parapet of the elevated walls.

Within the walls, and well seen from the rampart walk, are red-tiled roofs intermingled with more modern slated buildings. Amidst these rise prominently, here and there, the spires and towers of the churches, notably the broad pre-Conquest tower of St. Mary, Bishophill Junior; the tower of St. Michael’s, Ousegate, from which the Curfew is rung nightly, and the graceful octagonal tower of All Saints, Pavement, which, in the days when York was surrounded by forests, held a lamp to direct pilgrims through the pathways to the city.

York is a city of churches. In the mediaeval days there were forty-one parish churches, of which thirty were within the walls and eleven without. There were also seventeen chapels, sixteen hospitals, and nine monasteries. Twenty-two of the ancient churches exist.

We may well imagine that the Castle Keep, known as Clifford’s Tower, still keeps watch and ward over the city: opposite stands the mound of the other castle--the old Baile--which the Conqueror built in order to terrify the men of York. The triple-towered minster of St. Peter rises high above all else, and is best seen from the stretch of walls from Bootham to Monk Bar. The walk along the walls is one of the great attractions of York.

The old entrance to York from the south was Micklegate Bar. It has suffered much mutilation, for formerly it had a fore-court or barbican, which was removed in spite of protests. Sir Walter Scott, it is said, declared he would gladly walk from Edinburgh to York, if that would induce the Corporation to preserve the barbican. Under the Bar arch most of the English sovereigns and many a noble procession have passed. Formerly, the archbishops made their progresses barefooted through it from St. James’ Chapel, the Mount, on their way to be installed in the Minster. The clergy and religious bodies led the way, followed by mitred bishops, abbots, the nobility, and civic authorities; whilst torch-, censer-, banner-, and cross-bearers preceded the prelate, over whose head was held a canopy. The Bar was rebuilt during the reign of Edward III, the Norman arch being incorporated in the new structure. The side piers rise into circular turrets, and the whole is surmounted by an embattled parapet with a stone warrior over the centre of the Bar and over each turret. The Bar is adorned with shields which bear the arms of the King and of the City of York. Edward III, in the year 1338, claimed the crown of France and quartered the French lilies with the Plantagenet lions of England. The shield of York is covered with silver, and bears a red cross on which are displayed five golden lions alert and walking. The city was Edward’s base for conducting the war with Scotland. At this period the King and Queen were frequently in York, where from 1328-37 Parliament met seven times.

Whilst King Edward III and the Black Prince were engaged in the war with France, the Scots took advantage of their absence and invaded England. The martial Archbishop Zouche collected an army and marched northwards. He met and defeated the Scots at Neville’s Cross near Durham. The captured Scottish King was brought to York and passed through Micklegate Bar on his way southwards.

York became a royal duchy in 1385 when Richard II created his uncle, Edmund Langley, Duke of York. Shortly afterwards Henry of Lancaster (Henry IV) seized the throne, deposed Richard II, and imprisoned him in Pontefract Castle, where Richard was afterwards murdered. Plots were hatched against Henry, for example in 1403 the Percies rebelled but were defeated at Shrewsbury. Hotspur was slain, and his head sent to York and placed on Micklegate Bar. The Earl of Northumberland was summoned to meet Henry IV at York, and as he came in sight of the Bar underwent the terrible ordeal of seeing his son’s head which had been exposed thereon. The Earl was arrested but was subsequently pardoned. Hotspur’s widow besought the king for the head and body of her husband. The king granted her request, and issued a writ as follows:--

“The King to the mayor and sheriffs of the City of York, greeting. Whereas, of our special grace, we have granted to our cousin Elizabeth, who was the wife of Henry de Percy, chevalier, the head and quarters of the same Henry to be buried, we command you that the head aforesaid you deliver to the same Elizabeth to be buried according to our grant aforesaid. Witness the King at Cirencester the third day of November.”

The bereaved lady collected the remains from Shrewsbury, London, Chester, Newcastle, and York and had them interred in York Minster.

Lord Scrope being detected with others in a plot against Henry V, was arrested and condemned. His head was placed on Micklegate Bar.

Richard, third Duke of York, was, through his mother, the representative of Lionel, Duke of Clarence, third son of Edward III, whilst King Henry V was descended from the fourth son. In the next reign Richard, Duke of York, claimed the throne.

At the beginning of the Wars of the Roses, the citizens of York favoured the House of Lancaster. The Duke of York was slain at the battle of Wakefield in 1460. His head, which his enemies had in mockery covered with a paper crown, was brought to York and stuck on a pole over Micklegate Bar, his face looking towards the city. In the play of _Henry VI_, Queen Margaret exclaims:--

“Off with his head and set it on York gates; So York may overlook the town of York”.

The Earl of Salisbury and other notable prisoners were put to death and their heads fixed on poles near that of their leader. Edward succeeded his father as fourth Duke of York, and the year following, after the second battle of St. Albans, was, through the instrumentality of the King-maker, proclaimed King. On Palm Sunday as he was coming to York, he met at Towton the forces of Henry VI and Margaret of Anjou, and defeated them. Next day, Edward IV set out for York and, nearing the city, he was confronted with the ghastly sight of his father’s head on Micklegate Bar.

“And, after many scorns, many foul taunts, They took his head, and on the gates of York They set the same; and where it doth remain, The saddest spectacle that e’er I view’d.”

In his indignation, the King ordered the Earls of Devon and Wiltshire and three other prisoners to immediate execution, in order that their heads might replace his father’s.

“From off the gates of York fetch down the head, Your father’s head, which Clifford placed there; Instead thereof, let this supply the room; Measure for measure must be answered.”

During the great Civil War, the city was besieged by the Parliamentarian forces, and after a blockade of six weeks the Royalists attempted two sorties, both of which were failures. The besieged waited patiently for relief from the bold but erratic Prince Rupert, on whose approach the Parliamentarians retired towards Marston Moor. The Royalist troops passed through Micklegate Bar to meet their foes. In the ensuing battle the Royal forces were completely routed and retreated to York, followed by the Parliamentarians, who, however, were compelled to stay outside Micklegate Bar. The siege was renewed. Subsequently, Sir Thomas Glenham, governor of York, having made good terms, surrendered the city to Lord Fairfax, and the Royalist garrison passed out through Micklegate Bar with colours flying.

The last occasion on which Micklegate Bar was used for the exhibition of rebel heads was during the Jacobite rising of 1745. After the battle of Culloden there were set on this “Traitor’s Gate” two heads which remained for about seven years, when the heads were surreptitiously removed. The culprit was found, and at the Assizes sentenced to two years’ imprisonment, ordered to pay five pounds and to find sureties for his good behaviour for two years.

Bootham Bar protected the road from the north, and owing to continual disputes between Scotland and England, it was always strongly guarded. Whilst King Stephen was engaged in the south of England, the Scots thought it a favourable opportunity to invade England, not taking into account the generalship of the Archbishop. The prelate summoned the barons to York. An army was mustered and after passing through Bootham Bar, met and completely routed the Scots at the battle of the Standard, near Northallerton. In a raid, however, about two centuries later, the

position was reversed: the Scots had penetrated into England as far as York, and after gaining much booty retreated. The Archbishop and the Mayor hastily gathered an undisciplined army, which passed through the Bar and overtook the Scots at Myton. This time the city forces were completely routed, the Mayor and many of the clergy who had joined were slain.

In later times a Scot was obliged to announce his arrival at the Bar by using the rapper, and if he entered the city without the permission of the warder or Lord Mayor, he was liable to arrest and imprisonment. This Bar retains its portcullis or drop-gate in its entirety, the pointed ends of which and the wicket are seen within the archway. The upper part of the portcullis is to be seen in the chamber above.

Monk Bar, the entrance to the city from Scarborough, was built in the reign of Edward III. It is the most complete and imposing of the Bars, and, although shorn of its barbican, it remains the finest example of an English city gatehouse. Over the archway are crosslets to two stories which are enclosed by a pointed arch springing from the base of the turrets and supporting an embattled balcony, access to which is obtained from either turret. The balcony is adorned with the shield of Edward III, and on each spandril is a shield bearing the arms of the city of York. The gateway is vaulted and above are two stories of vaulted chambers, in the upper of which is the horizontal windlass for raising or lowering the portcullis. This is the only bar that retains its original city front, which has, however, been slightly modified by the insertion of mullioned windows. The first floor over the gateway is contained within an arched recess. A doorway leads to a narrow platform, from which the constable could announce to the citizens important news from the northern world outside or the herald could thence read proclamations. Through this Bar passed King Charles I attended by his knights and soldiers and a great concourse to a meeting on Heworth Moor. The meeting was called by the King, whose disputes with his Parliament had reached a crisis. The King, in his overconfidence, rejected the petition presented to him by Parliament and the Civil War broke out.

Walmgate Bar is the entrance to the city from Hull. It retains its barbican, portcullis, and its inner oak gates including the wicket. Henry V with Queen Katherine passed through this Bar on their way to visit the shrine of St. John of Beverley, and in honour of the event the arms of the King are emblazoned on the Bar. Later, when Edward IV had been temporarily deposed in favour of Henry VI, he, after a sojourn on the Continent, returned to England and landed at Ravenspurn, a site now submerged, and, gathering a force around him, marched to York, only to find the gates of Walmgate Bar closed against him.

“What then remains, we being thus arrived From Ravenspurn haven before the gates of York But that we enter, as into our dukedom.”

He demanded to be admitted as Duke of York, and on acknowledging Henry of Lancaster as king, he and his followers were permitted to enter. This scene is described in the play of _Henry VI_, _Part III_, Act IV, Scene VII. Henry VIII with Queen Catherine Howard on their visit to York entered the city by this Bar.

The city front is in striking contrast to the exterior elevation and consists of a timber and plaster dwelling built in front of the Bar on columns, and apparently erected in the time of Queen Elizabeth. The Bar suffered severely during the siege of York, owing to its proximity to Garrow Hill, which was secured by the Parliamentarians during the great Civil War for their batteries, which kept up a destructive fire on the Bar. The barbican was repaired four years after the surrender of the city, for over the arch is a shield with the city arms and the date 1648.

Fishergate Bar was the entrance to the city from Selby, and the walls from this Bar to Fishergate Tower commanded the narrow approach to the castle. The Bar consists of a round arch between two wide buttresses, each with passage through. Adjoining the eastern buttress was a rectangular guardroom. The arch is of two orders, continued to the ground with rounded groove for a portcullis. Over the arch is a panel containing the city arms and an inscription. An insurrection broke out in 1489 amongst the peasantry in Yorkshire. At Topcliffe the rebels murdered the Earl of Northumberland and then invested York, burning the gates of Fishergate Bar. The rebels were eventually defeated and one of the leaders beheaded at York. Fishergate Tower is provided with a garderobe, and when built adjoined a wide water area. Adjoining, on the land side, was a postern under a pointed archway, which has the jambs grooved evidently to accommodate a portcullis.

York Castle was constructed originally by William the Conqueror, who built between the two rivers a mound, and set on it a wooden watch-tower, surrounded with a _bailey-court_. In order to keep the castle and other ditches full of water, the Normans placed a dam across the River Foss, which was thus considerably widened, and formed into an efficient defence where it adjoined the city.

In the rising against the Jews at the coronation

of Richard I, Benedict of York was fatally injured. The anti-Semitic feeling spread to York, the house of Benedict was plundered and his widow and family murdered. This atrocious act naturally alarmed the Jews in York, who gathered their treasures and rushed to the castle for safety. The governor had to leave them for a while, and when he wished to reenter, the panic-stricken Jews refused him admission. An assault on the fortress was ordered. The Jews, finding themselves unable to hold the citadel, set fire to the wooden erections, and killed themselves.

The tower was rebuilt, and in the middle of the thirteenth century the mound was enlarged and the wooden watch-tower gave place to the stone keep. The castle area was walled in during the Edwardian period, the principal entrance with its flanking towers--now removed--faced Castle Mills Bridge. The keep has a quatrefoil plan. Corbelled-out turrets fill three angles, whilst the fourth is occupied by a rectangular gateway with the chapel above. The royal arms and those of Clifford were placed above the entrance during the seventeenth century; and the keep became known as Clifford’s Tower. The keep owes the ruined condition of its interior to a fire which broke out while it was used as a powder magazine.

The military architecture of York, whilst giving an idea of strength and power to the city, adds greatly to its picturesqueness. The line of embattled walls is agreeably broken by buttresses and mural towers, whilst the stately gatehouses set along the line of fortification give a sense of dignity, at the same time reflecting the sturdy independence of the men of York.

The streets are generally termed “gates”, the gatehouses “bars”, and the city walls “bar walls”. Such names as Blossom Street, Nunnery Lane, and Bridge Street are only modern substitutes for Ploxamgate, Baggergate, and Briggate. The “gates” of York often confuse visitors. A revising barrister once excused himself for being late in court by saying that he had lost his way and at last found himself in “Bootham-gate-street!” The street referred to is simply named Bootham. The streets are narrow and wind in all directions. “What narrow streets!” exclaimed Sidney Smith to one of the city tradesmen. “There is scarcely room for two carriages to pass.” “Not room!” was the indignant reply. “There’s plenty of room, sir, and two inches to spare.”

The city is pleasantly situated on slightly elevated ground in the midst of a plain. Through it flows the Ouse, which is crossed by three bridges. The central one--Ouse Bridge--is of stone and consists of three elliptical arches. The other two are of iron and have quatrefoil parapets. A view of Lendal Bridge shows the old water towers. The bridge is of a single span, and on the apex of the arch the Queen-mother, Alexandra, is depicted as an angel, holding the shield of St. George. Other shields, on the parapet, bear the arms of Plantagenet England, the See of York, and the White Rose. On either side charming views present themselves. On the left by the side of the river is the Esplanade, backed by St. Mary’s Abbey Close, in which are the ruins of the Abbey Church. Towards the right is a beautiful view of the city. Rising from the riverside are the stone buildings of the Post Office, Council Chamber, and the ancient Guildhall, while beyond are seen the towers and spires of the city churches. Skeldergate Bridge consists of central and side arches, and has its parapet adorned with the Lily of France and the Sun of York.

In the streets old timber and plaster dwellings, with their overhanging stories and high-peaked red-tiled gables, are here and there hemmed in by modern buildings. Timber houses, however, are becoming scarcer, and quite recently a number of such dwellings have been demolished. A few carved brackets which carry overhanging stories remain in Stonegate and Fossgate, and two from Davygate have been re-erected in Trinity Lane. The Shambles, of which a view is given, is the only street that preserves its narrow mediaeval character. From the uppermost of its overhanging stories you might shake hands with your neighbour across the street. This and Little Shambles are the delight of artists. The end of one house has been shorn of the lath and plaster work and shows how such timber houses were constructed. The antiquity of the houses in High Petergate, and the mediaeval narrowness of the street, enable one looking towards Bootham Bar to realize the former appearance of the approach to a gatehouse from within the city. The approaches to the other Bars have been widened and their aspect changed. A characteristic of York is the frequent occurrence at street corners of an ancient church surrounded by its burial-ground.

“Each in its little plot of holy ground, How beautiful they stand, These old grey churches of our native land.”

The business of the city was in the hands of its freemen. Their privileges were great. Only a freeman could trade in the city, and his sons might become free on attaining their majority. He had also the right of voting for the city’s representatives in Parliament. The freedom of the city was granted to outsiders who served an apprenticeship of seven years to a freeman, or by purchase or gift. No one was admitted to the freedom without taking an oath