Chapter 9

Scald the milk and stir into it the corn starch mixed with half the sugar. Stir constantly until thickened, and cook for 15 to 20 minutes. Beat the eggs, add the remaining sugar, mix with a little of the hot mixture, and stir into the double boiler. Remove from the heat, add the cream, strain, cool, add the flavoring, and freeze.

72. CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM.--Next to vanilla ice cream, chocolate seems to be the most desired. Some persons think this variety is difficult to make, but if the accompanying directions are carefully followed, no difficulty will be experienced and a delicious dessert will be the result.

CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM (Sufficient to Serve Six)

2 c. sugar 1/2 tsp. salt 1/2 c. water 4 Tb. flour 3 sq. melted chocolate 2 eggs 5 c. milk 4 tsp. vanilla 2 c. thin cream

Mix the sugar and water and cook until a sirup forms. Add this to the melted chocolate and cook together until the two are well blended. Add this mixture to the heated milk and cream, which have been seasoned with the salt and thickened with the flour. Beat the eggs and add to the hot mixture, stirring rapidly to prevent curding. Remove from the heat, cool, add the vanilla, strain, and freeze.

73. MOCHA ICE CREAM.--As the flavor of coffee is usually well liked, Mocha ice cream, which has coffee for its flavoring, is a dessert that often finds a place in the meal. It is especially nice to serve in the hot weather when hot coffee is omitted from the meal.

MOCHA ICE CREAM (Sufficient to Serve Six)

1 c. water 1-1/4 c. sugar 1/3 3 c. ground coffee 1/4 tsp. salt 1-1/2 c. milk 1 qt. cream 2 eggs 1 tsp. vanilla

Heat the water and add it to the coffee. Allow this to stand on the back of the stove for about 1/2 hour, and then strain through cheesecloth. Heat the milk in a double boiler, and to it add the strained coffee. Beat the eggs and add the sugar and salt to them. Stir into this a spoonful of the hot milk and coffee and then add to the mixture in the double boiler. Cook until the eggs have thickened, stirring constantly to prevent curding. Remove from the heat, cool, add the cream and vanilla, strain through a fine sieve, and freeze.

74. CARAMEL ICE CREAM.--No more delicious ice cream can be made than that flavored with caramel. It is usually very fine in texture and rich in flavor.

CARAMEL ICE CREAM (Sufficient to Serve Six)

1-1/2 c. sugar 1 egg 1/2 c. water 1/4 tsp. salt 2 c. milk 1 qt. thin cream 2 Tb. flour 1 Tb. vanilla

Caramelize 1/2 of the sugar and add the water. Cook to a sirup. Prepare a custard with the milk, remaining sugar, flour, egg, and salt. Remove from the heat, add the caramel and the cream, strain, add the vanilla, cool, and freeze.

75. JUNKET ICE CREAM WITH PEACHES.--An attractive frozen dessert can be made by freezing junket and serving it with canned peaches and peach sirup. This may be made into a mold and the mold garnished with the peaches, or it may be served on individual plates and a half of a peach put on each plate.

JUNKET ICE CREAM WITH PEACHES (Sufficient to Serve Six)

1 c. cream 1 Tb. cold water 1-1/2 qt. milk 1 Tb. vanilla 1-1/2 c. sugar 1 tsp. almond extract 1/4 tsp. salt Green coloring 2 junket tablets Canned peaches

Mix the cream and milk, add the sugar and salt, and heat in a double boiler until lukewarm. Dissolve the junket tablets in the cold water and add to the lukewarm milk. Add the flavoring and the green coloring, making the junket a pale green, and stand in a warm place until set. Turn into a freezer and freeze. If desired, mold and garnish the mold with the peaches. Add sugar to the peach juice and cook until a thick sirup is formed. Pour this over the whole and serve. If it is desired not to mold the ice cream, serve it with a peach on individual serving plates and pour a spoonful of peach sirup over each portion.

76. FRENCH ICE CREAM.--No more delicious ice cream can be made than that given in the accompanying recipe and known as French ice cream. It is especially nice for serving when something very attractive is desired, as at a dainty luncheon or an afternoon or evening party.

FRENCH ICE CREAM (Sufficient to Serve Six)

1 pt. milk 1 qt. cream 1 c. sugar 1 Tb. vanilla Yolks of 8 eggs 1 tsp. lemon

Heat the milk and add the sugar and beaten yolks of the eggs. Cook until the mixture thickens, remove from the fire, add the cream, vanilla, and lemon. Cool and freeze.

FROZEN CUSTARDS

77. Frozen custard makes a very desirable kind of frozen dessert. If properly made, the result is a delightfully rich dessert of smooth texture. It may be frozen without turning or in the usual way. A similar mixture is used in some of the recipes of the more complicated frozen desserts given later. Fruits and nuts may be used in the preparation of frozen custard to procure variety. During the season when eggs are expensive, this dessert is a rather extravagant one, so that from the standpoint of economy it should be made in the spring and summer.

78. PLAIN FROZEN CUSTARD.--If a frozen dessert that is easily made is desired, plain frozen custard should be tried. The accompanying recipe gives directions for custard of this kind.

PLAIN FROZEN CUSTARD (Sufficient to Serve Six)

1-1/2 qt. milk 1/4 tsp. salt 6 eggs 1 Tb. vanilla 1-1/4 c. sugar 1 tsp. lemon extract

Heat the milk in a double boiler. Separate the eggs, beat the yolks, and add the sugar and salt to them. Add this to the hot milk, stirring rapidly until the mixture thickens. Remove from the heat, beat the egg whites, and fold them into the mixture. Add the vanilla and lemon extract, cool, and freeze.

79. FROZEN CUSTARD WITH NUTS.--Plain frozen custard can be greatly improved by the addition of nuts. The nuts used may be blanched almonds roasted in the oven until they are brown, hickory nuts, English walnuts, pecans, black walnuts, or a mixture of any of these. They should not be put through a grinder, but should be put into a chopping bowl and chopped fine with a chopping knife. Prepare the mixture and freeze to a mush, then open the freezer, add a cupful of chopped nuts, close the freezer, and complete the freezing.

80. FROZEN CUSTARD WITH RAISINS.--Frozen custard is also delicious when maple sirup is used in its preparation and raisins are added before the freezing is complete.

FROZEN CUSTARD WITH RAISINS (Sufficient to Serve Six)

1 c. sultana raisins 1-1/2 c. maple sirup 1 qt. milk 1 pt. thin cream 6 eggs 1 Tb. vanilla

Steam the raisins until they are soft. Heat the milk in a double boiler. Beat the eggs, add the maple sirup, and add this to the milk. Cook until the mixture has thickened, remove from the heat, and stir in the cream and vanilla. Cool and freeze to a mush; then add the raisins and continue freezing until stiff. Serve.

81. TUTTI-FRUTTI FROZEN CUSTARD.--A very rich dessert can be made by adding chopped nuts and several kinds of fruit to custard and then freezing it to make tutti-frutti custard. Such a dessert is high in food value and is suitable for a meal in which other rich food is not served.

TUTTI-FRUTTI FROZEN CUSTARD (Sufficient to Serve Six)

1 qt. milk 6 egg yolks 1 c. sugar 1/8 tsp. salt 1 Tb. vanilla 1/4 c. chopped citron 2 Tb. maraschino juice 1/4 c. chopped maraschino cherries 1/2 c. chopped nuts 1/4 c. chopped candied pineapple 1/2 c. shredded coconut

Heat the milk in a double boiler. Beat the egg yolks and add the sugar and salt. Add this to the hot milk and stir until the custard has thickened. Cool, add the vanilla, chopped citron, maraschino juice, cherries, nuts, pineapple, and coconut. Place in a freezer and freeze until stiff. Pack and let stand until time to serve.

ICES

82. Ices are simple mixtures of fruit juice and sugar diluted with water and then frozen. They are expected to be somewhat sour, and, as a rule, lemon juice is relied on to assist in obtaining this flavor. In addition, lemon juice also helps to bring out the flavor of the fruit used as the basis of the ice.

As a rule, a very smooth texture is not desired in this dessert; consequently, ice is frozen quite rapidly and, as will be noted in Table I, with a high proportion of salt. Unless the fruit used in an ice is expensive, this is probably the cheapest frozen dessert that can be made, for it seldom contains any other ingredients than those mentioned. It is usually clear, but occasionally the fruit pulp is used in addition to the fruit juice. When this is done, the mixture should not be frozen too hard, as the fruit is apt to become icy. Fresh, canned, or preserved fruit may be used. The sugar used for ices is usually cooked with the water to form a sirup. Otherwise, the sugar often fails to dissolve and remains granular, preventing the ice from being as sweet as it should be for the amount of sugar used.

83. LEMON ICE.--The ice most frequently made is that flavored with lemon. It is very refreshing when served plain, but it can be improved by the addition of fruit. A very delightful way in which to serve it is to place a large spoonful in a sherbet glass, pour over this a spoonful or two of the sirup from maraschino cherries, and then garnish with diced bananas.

LEMON ICE (Sufficient to Serve Six)

4 c. water 2-1/2 c. sugar 3/4 c. lemon juice

Mix the water and sugar, bring to a boil, and cool. Add the lemon juice, turn into a freezer, and freeze. Serve in any desired way.

84. ORANGE ICE.--Persons fond of oranges generally welcome orange ice as a dessert. As orange ice is somewhat bland in flavor, it is improved by the addition of a little lemon juice.

ORANGE ICE (Sufficient to Serve Six)

2 c. sugar 4 c. water 2 c. orange juice 1/2 c. lemon juice

Cook the sugar and water until a thin sirup is formed, add the lemon and orange juice, and freeze.

85. FRUIT ICE.--No more refreshing dessert for warm weather can be made than fruit ice. Orange and lemon juice are used as the foundation, and grated pineapple and crushed strawberries are added for flavoring.

FRUIT ICE (Sufficient to Serve Six)

1-1/2 c. sugar 2 c. water 3 oranges 3 lemons 1 c. grated pineapple 1 c. crushed strawberries

Cook the sugar and water until a thin sirup is formed, and then cool. Add the juice of the oranges and lemons, the grated pineapple, fresh if possible, and the crushed strawberries. Freeze and serve.

86. FROZEN SPICED PUNCH.--Something entirely different in the way of a frozen dessert can be made by making frozen spiced punch according to the accompanying directions. A dessert of this kind is a fitting conclusion to a meal that is somewhat hearty and varied in its nature.

FROZEN SPICED PUNCH (Sufficient to Serve Six)

6 cloves 2-in. stick cinnamon 1 qt. water 2 c. sugar 1/2 c. pineapple juice 1/2 c. orange juice 1/2 c. lemon juice 4 drops wintergreen oil

Put the cloves and cinnamon into the water, place over the fire, bring to the boiling point, and then add the sugar. Cook together for a few minutes, remove from the fire, and cool. Add the pineapple, orange, and lemon juice, strain, add the wintergreen oil, and freeze.

87. MINT PUNCH.--When meals containing rich meats and other rich foods are served, it will be found that mint punch adds just what is needed to balance them. It is an easy dessert to make, as will be seen from the accompanying recipe.

MINT PUNCH (Sufficient to Serve Six)

1 c. sugar 1 qt. water 3 lemons 1 bunch fresh mint 4 drops peppermint oil Green coloring

Cook the sugar and water until a thin sirup is formed. Cool and add the juice of the lemons. Wash and chop the leaves of the mint into small pieces, and add these to the liquid. Add the peppermint oil and sufficient coloring to make it a pale green. Freeze. The fresh mint leaves may be omitted if desired.

FRAPPÉS

88. FRAPPÉS, in composition, are very similar to ices, consisting usually of crushed fruit or fruit juice, water, and sugar. They are granular when frozen, and, as they are never frozen as hard as ice cream and ices, they are of a mushy consistency. They are more often used for serving with a heavy course in a dinner or between two courses than as a dessert. The freezing of frappés is accomplished rapidly, for, as will be observed from Table I, the proportion of ice and salt used is 1 to 1. This, together with the fact that the mixture contains a large proportion of water, accounts for the granular nature of frappés. Any desirable fruit may be used in the preparation of this dessert. If it is a rather bland fruit, such as peaches, raspberries, etc., lemon juice should be added in order to give a sour taste and the mixture will need to be sweetened accordingly.

89. CRANBERRY FRAPPÉ.--To the dinner course of a meal in which chicken, turkey, duck, or other fowl is served, cranberry frappé is often added. It may be used in place of the cranberry jelly and will be found to be a delightful change.

CRANBERRY FRAPPÉ (Sufficient to Serve Six)

1 qt. cranberries 3 c. water 2 c. sugar 2 lemons

Put the cranberries to cook with the water. When all the berries have become soft, force them through a colander, add the sugar, and put over the fire to cook until the sugar is completely dissolved. Remove from the fire and cool, add the juice of the lemons, and freeze.

90. CIDER FRAPPÉ.--A delightful addition to a Thanksgiving dinner is cider frappé. It should be served with the dinner course rather than as a dessert.

CIDER FRAPPÉ (Sufficient to Serve Six)

1/4 c. water 1/2 c. sugar 1 qt. cider 2 lemons

Place the water and sugar over the fire and cook until the sugar is dissolved. Cool and then add the sirup to the cider and the juice of the lemons. Freeze.

91. CHERRY FRAPPÉ.--No more attractive frappé can be served than that flavored with cherries and colored with a pink coloring. It is very refreshing and adds much to the meal in which it is served.

CHERRY FRAPPÉ (Sufficient to Serve Six)

1 c. sugar 1 c. water 2 lemons 1 c. cherries, chopped 1-1/2 c. juice from canned sour cherries Pink coloring

Add the sugar to the water and cook until the sugar is dissolved. Cool, add the juice of the lemons, the chopped cherries, cherry juice, and sufficient pink coloring to make the mixture a pale pink. Freeze.

SHERBETS

92. SHERBETS, according to definition, are flavored water ices, but as they are now commonly understood, they have come to have a different meaning. Desserts now regarded as sherbets are ices to which are added egg whites, gelatine, milk, or any combination of these things. The addition of such ingredients improves the texture very much, for sherbets are less likely to be granular than ices.

Sherbets may be made from fruits or fruit juices of any kind, and these may be either canned or fresh. Some mixtures of fruits are more agreeable than others, and an effort should be made to combine the fruits that make the best mixtures. When a bland fruit is used as the basis for a sherbet, a more acid one should be added to improve the flavor.

93. MILK SHERBET.--The accompanying recipe for milk sherbet may be made as here given, or any desired kind of crushed fruit and fruit juice may be added to it to give a distinctive fruit flavor. The quantity of lemon used may be decreased slightly, especially if the fruit added is sour. If a large amount of unsweetened fruit is added, it may be necessary to increase the quantity of sugar. This point should be looked after carefully before freezing.

MILK SHERBET (Sufficient to Serve Six)

1-1/2 c. sugar 1 qt. milk 3 lemons

Mix the sugar, milk, and juice of the lemons. Stir until the sugar is dissolved. The milk, of course, will curd, but when it is frozen the curd will have disappeared entirely. Place in a freezer and freeze until firm.

94. RASPBERRY SHERBET.--If a delightful dessert is desired, raspberry sherbet should be made. Fresh raspberries are preferred in a dessert of this kind, but canned raspberries may be used if it is made out of the raspberry season.

RASPBERRY SHERBET (Sufficient to Serve Six)

3 c. milk 2 c. crushed red raspberries 1 lemon 2 c. sugar

Mix the milk, raspberries, juice of the lemon, and sugar. Stir until the sugar is dissolved. Freeze.

95. PEAR SHERBET.--Pear juice is, of course, rather bland in flavor, but it makes a very appetizing sherbet if it is combined with lemon juice.

PEAR SHERBET (Sufficient to Serve Six)

2 c. pear juice Juice of 3 lemons 2 c. water 1 c. sugar 1 Tb. gelatine 1 egg white

Mix the fruit juices and water and add the sugar. Soak the gelatine in a little cold water and add sufficient boiling water to dissolve it. Pour this into the mixture. Freeze until of a mushy consistency. Add the beaten egg white and continue to freeze until stiff.

96. STRAWBERRY SHERBET.--As nearly every one is fond of strawberries, a sherbet in which this fruit is used will always be appreciated. Fresh strawberries are required in the accompanying recipe, and so this dessert must be made during strawberry season.

STRAWBERRY SHERBET (Sufficient to Serve Six)

2 c. fresh crushed strawberries 1 lemon 2 c. sugar 1 qt. milk 2 egg whites

Crush the strawberries, add them with the juice of the lemon and sugar to the milk. Stir until the sugar is dissolved. Freeze to a mush, add the beaten egg whites, and continue to freeze until the sherbet is solid.

97. GRAPE SHERBET.--Sherbet in which grape juice is used for flavoring makes a change from the usual kind of frozen desserts. A little lemon juice is used with the grape juice to make it more tart.

GRAPE SHERBET (Sufficient to Serve Six)

2 c. grape juice 2 c. water 2 c. milk 1 Tb. gelatine 2 c. sugar 1 lemon

Mix the grape juice, water, and milk. Soak the gelatine in a little cold water and add sufficient boiling water to dissolve. Pour this into the liquid and add the sugar and the juice of the lemon. Stir until the sugar is dissolved. Place in a freezer and freeze.

MOUSSES, PARFAITS, AND BISCUITS

98. Nature of Mousses, Parfaits, and Biscuits. Mousses, parfaits, and biscuits differ from other frozen desserts in that they are frozen in molds rather than in a freezer. Mousses and parfaits are similar in nature, and still there is a slight distinction between them. Mousses nearly always contain gelatine and are frequently made without eggs, while parfaits are composed largely of sirup, eggs, and cream. Biscuits are usually made of a mixture similar to mousses and parfaits, but are molded in individual molds.

Since the desserts are frozen without being turned, they must be of a heavy, smooth texture, so that they will not be granular when they are frozen, as would be the case if a fine mixture were packed in a mold and frozen without turning. In many of them, whipped cream and beaten eggs are folded in to give lightness. In the ordinary manner of freezing, this lightness would be lost, but it is retained in this method because the mixture is undisturbed during the freezing process. Considerable time is required to freeze these heavy mixtures; in fact, if a mousse contains too large a proportion of gelatine, there is difficulty in freezing it at all.

99. MOLDING: MOUSSES, PARFAITS, AND BISCUITS.--The molding of mousses, parfaits, and biscuits, while different from the freezing of other frozen desserts, is not a difficult matter. They are usually put in a mold of some kind and the mold is then covered with a mixture of ice and salt. After the mixture is prepared, crack the ice as previously explained, and mix it with salt in the proportion of 2 to 1. As a rule, a very large dish pan or other utensil that will hold a sufficient quantity of ice to cover the mold well is used for freezing the packed mold. Set the mold in the pan of ice and salt until it is thoroughly cooled, and then fill it with the mixture to be frozen. Often, to improve the appearance, the mold is first lined with a frappé or an ice and then filled with the heavier mixture. Such an arrangement provides an opportunity for a color scheme and at the same time facilitates the removal of the dessert from the mold.

With the mold filled in the desired way, wrap several layers of oiled paper in a band around the edge and press the cover down tightly to prevent the entrance of any salt water. Then pack the closed mold in the pan of ice and salt, being careful to have it completely covered. It may be necessary to pour off the water and repack with ice and salt once during the freezing. Care should be taken not to freeze the mixture too long, for, at best, it is hard to remove these desserts from the mold and this difficulty is increased if they are frozen too hard.

100. CARAMEL MOUSSE.--A melon mold makes a very attractive dessert when used for the molding of caramel mousse. After being turned out of the mold on a platter and garnished with peaches, this dessert will appear as in Fig. 19. In addition to being attractive, caramel mousse is so delicious that it appeals to practically every one.

CARAMEL MOUSSE (Sufficient to Serve Six)

3/4 c. sugar 1/2 c. water 1 c. evaporated milk 2 tsp. gelatine 1/4 c. water 1 egg white 2 tsp. vanilla 1/4 tsp. salt

Make 1/2 cupful of the sugar and the 1/2 cupful of water into caramel. Place the can of evaporated milk into a pan of warm water, allow it to come to a boil over the flame, and then cool the can in the refrigerator. Soften the gelatine with the 1/4 cupful of water and then dissolve in the caramel while it is boiling hot. Pour the cold milk into a bowl, add the egg white, and beat together vigorously. When the gelatine and caramel have become cool and have started to set, gradually add the mixture to the milk and egg white, beating constantly. If it is desired to hasten the thickening process, set the bowl in which the mixture is being made into a pan of ice. Add the rest of the sugar, the vanilla, and the salt, and continue beating until the whole begins to thicken. Place in a mold and freeze in a pan of ice and salt. When frozen, turn from the mold onto a platter and garnish with canned peaches in the manner shown. Over each serving, pour some of the peach juice, which has been boiled down into a thick sirup.

101. CHOCOLATE MOUSSE.--If persons to be served are fond of chocolate desserts, chocolate mousse should be prepared. This may be packed in a mold of any desired kind.

CHOCOLATE MOUSSE (Sufficient to Serve Six)

2 sq. unsweetened chocolate 1-1/4 c. sugar 1 c. water 2 tsp. granulated gelatine 3 c. thin cream 1 tsp. vanilla 1 c. whipping cream

Melt the chocolate in a double boiler. Add the sugar and half of the water. Cook over the flame until the mixture is thick and smooth. Soften the gelatine in 1/4 cupful of water, bring the remaining 1/4 cupful of water to the boiling point, and dissolve the gelatine in it. Add this to the cooked chocolate and sugar, heat the thin cream in a double boiler, and mix the two. Add the vanilla, strain, and cool in a pan of ice water. When the mixture begins to thicken, whip the heavy cream and fold it in. Mold, pack in ice and salt, and freeze.

102. BANANA-AND-APRICOT MOUSSE.--Mousses are sometimes made of fruits, but when this is done, the proper combination should be secured. Bananas and apricots combine very well. An excellent dessert will therefore result if the directions given in the accompanying recipe are carefully followed.

BANANA-AND-APRICOT MOUSSE (Sufficient to Serve Six)

1 c. banana purée 1 c. apricot purée Juice of 1 lemon 1 c. water 1 c. sugar 2 tsp. gelatine 1 pt. heavy cream

Force ripe bananas through a sieve to make the banana purée. Soak and stew dried apricots and force these through a sieve to make apricot purée. Mix the two and add the lemon juice. Add 1/2 cupful of the water to the sugar and cook until a thick sirup is formed. Add this to the fruit purée. Soften the gelatine in 1/4 cupful of cold water, heat the remaining 1/4 cupful to the boiling point, and dissolve the gelatine. Add the gelatine to the fruit mixture and place in a pan of ice water to cool. Whip the cream until it is stiff and fold this into the fruit mixture when it begins to thicken. Mold, pack in ice, and freeze.