Chapter 18

Pastry ingredients may be mixed by methods that differ from the three just mentioned. One of these is illustrated in the method given later for the making of easy pastry. This seems to be a complete reversal of the rules observed in making pastry in the usual ways. The water is hot and the fat is melted in it. The flour is added to the liquid and the fat instead of the liquid being added to the flour and the fat. In spite of the fact that all this appears to be contrary, the results obtained by this method are satisfactory.

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PASTRY FOR PIES

MAKING AND BAKING

15. PROCEDURE IN MAKING PLAIN PASTRY.--The first step in the making of plain pastry consists in sifting the flour with the salt into the mixing bowl. After this has been done, the fat should be worked into the flour, an operation that may be accomplished in three ways.

The method most commonly adopted is to work in the fat with the fingers; but this plan has its disadvantages in that it is not a very agreeable way and the fat becomes so warmed by the higher temperature of the fingers that it is liable to impair the finished product.

Again, some persons mix the fat with the flour by means of a fork, using this utensil to crush the lumps of fat against the sides of the bowl.

By far the most satisfactory method and the one that produces the best results is that shown in Fig. 2. Put the required amount of fat into the bowl containing the flour and the salt, and then, with two knives, as shown, cut the fat into the flour until the particles of fat are about the size of a small pea. As can readily be seen, this method, which is perhaps as speedy as any method that may be adopted, has the advantage of being entirely sanitary.

16. The next step is that of adding the liquid to the mixture of flour and fat. Heap the particles up in the center of the bowl, make a depression in the mixture, and, as shown in Fig. 3, pour the water into this in a thin stream, stirring the mixture all the time with a knife or a spatula. Be careful to add just enough water to make the mass of fat and flour barely cling together. As soon as the water has been added, gather the mixture into a mass preparatory to rolling it out on the board.

17. At this point, flour the molding board or other surface slightly, shape enough of the dough mixture to cover a pie pan into a rounded mass, and place it on the floured space. Then, as shown in Fig. 4, roll it out with the rolling pin until it is about 1/8 inch in thickness, using a light, careful motion and keeping the piece of dough as nearly round as possible, so that it will fit the pan it is intended to cover.

When the rolling has been completed, roll the edge of the pastry over the rolling pin, hold it carefully over the pie pan, and, as shown in Fig. 5, unroll it gradually so that it will fall in the right place and cover the pan properly. With the paste in the pan, press it lightly with the fingers in order to make it cling closely to the bottom and the sides. Then, as shown in Fig. 6, trim the paste evenly by running a knife around the edge of the pan. When this is done, the pan is properly covered with paste for a one-crust pie or with the bottom crust for a pie that is to have two crusts.

18. In case a one-crust pie is to be made, the kind of filling to be used determines whether the crust should be baked first or not. For pies that require comparatively long baking, such as pumpkin pie, for instance, the raw crust is filled with the mixture and the two, crust and mixture, are then baked in the oven together. However, if the filling is one that does not require baking for any length of time, that is, time sufficient to bake the pastry, or if the filling requires a temperature that would be too low to bake the pastry, the crust should be baked first. In such an event, it is necessary to prick very thoroughly the bottom and the sides of the crust with a fork, as shown in Fig. 7, so that the air that is confined in the pastry will not make bubbles by pushing the pastry up as it expands in baking. A perforated pie tin is an advantage in the baking of shells or single-crust pies, for it prevents the air from becoming confined between the pan and the crust and producing air spaces that would cause blisters to form as the pie is baked. If desired, the crust may be placed over the back of the pan and baked, thus forming a shell that may be filled with a cooked filling and served.

19. When a double-crust pie is to be made, place the filling, which is usually fruit, on the bottom crust, but do not prick the crust in the manner just described. With this done, roll out the top crust and, as shown in Fig. 8, mark it with a knife in any design. The design serves as an outlet for the steam that generally forms inside of the pie as the filling cooks; if no provision is made for the steam to pass out, it will push up the crust and thus spoil the appearance of the pie. Next moisten the edge of the lower crust with a little water, putting it on with the finger, as shown in Fig. 9. Then carefully pick up the marked crust, place it over the filling, and press it down so that the edges of the bottom and the top crust cling together well. In applying the top crust, be careful not to stretch it. If it is put on loosely and pressed down on the edge of the lower crust without being pulled, the contents will not be so apt to cook out of the pie. Trim off the uneven edge with a knife and finish the edges of the top and bottom crusts in any desired way. This may be done by fluting the edge with the fingers or, as shown in Fig. 10, making marks with the tines of a fork. When this has been completed, the pie is ready to bake.

20. BAKING THE PLAIN-PASTRY MIXTURE.--As soon as the pie or other pastry dessert has been prepared, the next step is to bake it. To produce the best results, the pastry should be baked as quickly as possible; consequently, a hot oven is necessary. The baking can be accomplished most successfully in the case of a single crust baked without the filling or a pie containing a mixture that does not require long cooking. Otherwise, the temperature must be sufficiently low to cook the filling so that it will be palatable, and for this reason the pastry is not baked under entirely ideal conditions. The correct temperature for most pastry is from 500 to 600 degrees; that is, the oven should be just about as hot as it can be made. The length of time required for the baking depends entirely on the heat of the oven and the contents of the pie. It should be remembered, however, that to be properly baked, the crust should be neither burned nor pale looking when taken from the oven, but should be a golden brown. Fig. 11 shows a two-crust pie that has had just the right amount of baking.

21. When the filling of the pie does not require so much baking as the crust, it is well to bake the crust partly before putting the filling in. This is particularly advisable in the case of custard pie, for the custard is put in as an uncooked mixture and requires the low temperature necessary for solidifying eggs without causing them to curd. On the other hand, pies containing certain kinds of filling must be baked slowly. When this condition exists, it is advisable to start the baking in a very hot oven, so that the crusts will have the benefit of the high temperature. Then the heat should be gradually reduced until the filling will cook and the crust will not burn.

22. Often, especially in the baking of fresh berry or cherry pie, the juice that forms inside the pie cooks out. This is a condition that must be overcome if satisfactory pies are to be the result. Various means of preventing it have been suggested, but one of the successful ones consists in rolling a small piece of paper into a funnel shape, leaving both ends open, and inserting the small end in one of the openings in the top crust. This arrangement provides a vent for the steam, and so the juice is less likely to cook out of the crust while the pie is baking.

UTILIZING LEFT-OVER PASTRY

23. In making pies, it is well to mix only the quantity of paste that is desired for the number of pies to be made. Usually, 1-1/2 cupfuls of flour will make sufficient paste for one double-crust pie, provided the pan in which it is made is not too large. In case it is necessary to make fresh pie on two consecutive days, a good plan is to make at one time enough paste for both days, for what remains after the first pie is made may be allowed to stand in the refrigerator or some other cool place. Then it may be rolled out on the second day and used in exactly the same way as on the first. However, it is a rather difficult matter to make the exact amount of paste for the pies needed. If nothing more remains, there are usually small scraps left over from the trimming of the edge. These should by all means be put to some good use, for the material is equally as good as that which has been used in the pie and there is no reason why it should be wasted.

24. TARTS.-A very good way in which to utilize these scraps is to make tarts of various kinds and shapes out of them. There are a number of attractive ways in which jam, jelly, marmalade, fruit butter, fresh fruits, apple sauce, stewed prunes, or other cooked or canned fruit may be utilized for the making of tarts. These little pastry desserts are the delight of children, most of whom may be permitted occasionally to eat such a satisfactory delicacy.

25. Before attempting to use the pastry scraps, work them together with the hands. Then roll the piece out with the rolling pin until it is the required thickness and cut it out in the shape desired. To make a simple variety of tart, cut two rounds of the paste with a cooky cutter. In one of these, whichever is to be used for the top, make three or four small holes, using a thimble or some other small cutter. Bake these shapes in the oven separately, and after baking spread the whole one with jelly or jam and over this place the one containing the holes.

26. Another attractive way in which to make tarts is to cut rounds of the paste, as shown in Fig. 12, cover small pans with these rounds, and then bake them. Upon taking them from the oven, remove them from the pans and fill them with any desired filling in the form of stewed fruit, jam, custards, etc. If canned or stewed fruit is used, cook it down until it is somewhat thick. These little tarts are delicious when they have had a spoonful of meringue baked on the fruit or are served with a spoonful of whipped cream.

27. Still another variety of tart may be made with very little trouble. Cut the rolled paste into pieces about 4 inches square, and, on a triangular half of the square, place several spoonfuls of fruit with additional sugar, if necessary, and add a little flour to thicken the juice that forms. Fold the other triangular half over the fruit to cover it, turn the edges of the bottom half over the edges of the top, and press them down to keep the fruit from running out. Set in the oven and bake until the paste is brown and the filling of the tart is cooked.

28. SMALL PIES.--Sometimes there may be enough paste remaining to make one crust for a small pie. In such an event, cover the pan with the paste, add a fruit filling of some kind, such as cranberries, apple sauce, marmalade, or fruit butter, and then, out of the scraps that remain, cut several narrow strips and place them over the filling. Such an arrangement makes an agreeable change in the appearance of this dessert.

29. CHEESE STRAWS.--Small pieces of pastry that are left over may also be used to make cheese straws, which are one of the accompaniments often served with salads. To make them, roll grated cheese into the mixture until it is well blended. Then roll out the paste until it is about 1/4 inch thick, cut into narrow strips of the desired length, and bake in a hot oven.

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RECIPES FOR PASTRY AND PIES

PASTRY

30. Several recipes for pastry that may be used in pie making are here given. These recipes differ as regards the ingredients used and will serve to offer variety in the making of pie crust. With the exception of the recipe for easy pastry, the principles of pastry making already set forth apply to all these recipes alike.

31. PLAIN PASTRY.--Pastry made according to the accompanying directions is the kind that is most frequently used. It requires only a medium amount of shortening, and wheat flour is used in its preparation. It is very satisfactory for any kind of pie desired.

PLAIN PASTRY

1-1/2 c. flour 1 tsp. salt 1/3 c. shortening 1/4 to 3/8 c. water

Sift the flour and salt into a mixing bowl. Chop the shortening into the flour with knives. When the fat has been chopped into pieces the size of a small pea, add sufficient cold water to make all the particles adhere, mixing them together with a case knife. There should not be enough water added to make the paste stick to either the bowl or the knife. Divide the mass into halves and press each into a round piece with the fingers. Flour the board slightly and roll out about 1/8 inch thick for the pie crust.

32. ECONOMY PASTE.--When both wheat flour and fat must be saved, economy paste should be tried. Barley flour is substituted for part of the wheat flour, and this with the wheat makes an excellent combination.

ECONOMY PASTE

1 c. wheat flour 1/2 c. barley flour 1/2 tsp. salt 1/4 c. shortening 1/4 to 3/8 c. water

Sift the flour and salt into a mixing bowl. Chop in the shortening until it is in particles about the size of a small pea. Add water until the mass will cling together. Roll into sheets about 1/8 inch thick for pie crust.

33. QUALITY PASTE.--The accompanying recipe gives directions for a very good quality of paste. As will be noted, the lard, which is used for part of the shortening, is added to the flour, and the butter, which forms the other part, is worked into the dough. If the directions here given are carefully followed, excellent results can be expected.

QUALITY PASTE

2 c. flour 1/4 tsp. salt 1/4 c. lard 1/3 to 1/2 c. water 1/2 c. butter

Sift the flour and salt into a mixing bowl. Add the lard and chop very fine. Add enough water to make a stiff dough. This will require just a little more water than the pastes previously given. Roll the paste in a rectangular form, spread the butter evenly over the paste, and fold so as to make three layers. Turn half way round and roll out so as to make a rectangle in the opposite direction. Fold, turn, and roll in this way four times, handling the rolling pin and paste as lightly as possible. Use to cover the pan and bake in a quick oven.

34. SOUR-CREAM PASTRY.--A slightly different kind of pastry can be made by using sour cream for the liquid and adding a small quantity of soda to neutralize the acid in the cream. Besides providing a means of using up cream that has become sour, this recipe makes a pastry that appeals to most persons.

SOUR-CREAM PASTRY

1 1/4 c. flour 1/3 tsp. salt 1/4 tsp. soda 3 Tb. shortening 1/4 to 3/4 c. thick sour cream

Sift the flour, salt, and soda together in a mixing bowl. Chop in the shortening and add the cream. Knead the paste slightly and after taking it out on the board, divide it into halves. Proceed in the usual manner for making pastry.

35. EASY PASTRY.--A departure from the usual kind of pastry is easy pastry, directions for which are given in the accompanying recipe. It is more moist and a little more difficult to handle than pastry made in the usual way; consequently, it is more ideal for single-crust pies than for double-crust ones. Besides being easy to make, pastry of this kind will stand a great deal more handling without injury than any other kind. It may be placed on the pan and patted out where it seems too thick or patched where it pulls apart. The amounts given here will make one double-crust pie or two single-crust pies of medium size.

EASY PASTRY

1/2 c. fat 1/4 c. boiling water 1 3/4 c. flour 1/4 tsp. baking powder 1/2 tsp. salt

Measure the fat into a mixing bowl, pour the boiling water over it, and stir until all the fat is softened and melted. Sift together the flour, baking powder, and salt, and stir into the water and fat. Divide into two portions and roll for crusts. If the crusts are to be baked before they are filled, prick them well with a fork to prevent the formation of bubbles.

DOUBLE-CRUST PIES

36. As has already been learned, double-crust pies are pies that have both a bottom and a top crust and contain a filling of some kind. The amounts given in the recipes for pastry are sufficient to make the two crusts required for pies of this kind. Any of these recipes may be followed, depending on the variety of pastry desired.

37. APPLE PIE NO. 1.--To make the best possible apple pie, tart apples should be used, for besides giving a good flavor they cook soft inside the pie much more readily than do apples that are more nearly sweet. If sour apples cannot be obtained, lemon juice sprinkled over the apples after they are placed in the crust will help to make them tender. The amount of lemon juice depends, of course, on the sourness of the apples. Any desirable spices may be used for flavoring, cinnamon and nutmeg being the most popular ones. If the apples are very juicy, a little flour mixed with the sugar and sprinkled over them will help to thicken the juice, but usually this is not necessary. A little butter dotted over the apples before the top crust is put on also helps to improve the flavor.

For pie, the apples may be cut in as large or as small pieces as desired. However, it is best to cut them into thick slices or about sixteenths, that is, to cut each quarter into four pieces.

APPLE PIE No. 1

1 qt. apples 1/2 to 3/4 c. sugar Salt 1/2 tsp. cinnamon or 1/4 tsp. nutmeg Lemon juice

After the pan has been covered with the paste, peel the apples, cut them into pieces of the desired size, and place them into the paste in sufficient quantity to heap the pan. In the process of cooking, there will be a certain amount of shrinkage caused by the apple juice filling in the spaces as the apples cook and soften; therefore, in order to have a pie thick enough when it is baked, the apples must be heaped in the pan before baking. Sprinkle the apples with the sugar, to which has been added the nutmeg or the cinnamon. Sprinkle lightly with salt, add 1 teaspoonful of lemon juice, and, if the apples seem dry, a few tablespoonfuls of water. Dot with butter, wet the edges of the under crust, and place the top crust in position. Bake for about 45 minutes in a moderate oven.

38. APPLE PIE NO. 2.--Another variety of apple pie is made by cooking the apples, putting them between crusts, and then baking the whole. This pie does not require so much time in the oven, but it needs a hot oven. It has a somewhat richer flavor than the preceding pie, due to the brown sugar used in making it.

APPLE PIE No. 2

Apples 1/3 c. water 2/3 c. brown sugar Cinnamon

Prepare the required number of apples for one pie, place in a baking dish with the water and brown sugar, and bake in the oven until the apples are tender and the water has sufficiently evaporated. This should be done in a slow oven, so as not to burn the apples and to give them rather long cooking. Remove from the oven, place on the lower crust, sprinkle with cinnamon, and cover with the upper crust. Bake in a hot oven until the crusts are sufficiently baked and brown.

39. BERRY PIE.--Blackberries, blueberries or huckleberries, and red and black raspberries may be used for pie in the same way by merely varying the amount of sugar with the sourness of the berries. For instance, blackberries will probably require a little more sugar than raspberries, while blueberries will require the least.

BERRY PIE

3 to 4 c. berries 1/2 to 3/4 c. sugar 3 Tb. flour Pinch of salt

Look the berries over carefully and remove any spoiled ones, leaves, and stems. Wash thoroughly and fill the lower crust. Add the sugar mixed with the flour and salt. Cover with the top crust and bake for about 30 minutes in a moderately hot oven.

40. CHERRY PIE.--Both sweet and sour cherries may be used for making pie, but sour cherries are by far the more desirable. Their only disadvantage is that they require a rather large amount of sugar. Cherries used for pies should always be seeded. Canned cherries may be used for this purpose as well as fresh ones, but they are not so delicious. The proportion of sugar used for making cherry pie will, of course, need to be varied according to the sourness of the cherries used.

CHERRY PIE

4 c. seeded cherries 1 1/4 c. sugar 4 Tb. flour Pinch of salt

Fill the lower crust of the pie with the cherries. Mix the sugar, flour, and salt and sprinkle over the top. Moisten the edge of the lower crust, place the top crust in position, and bake in a moderately hot oven for about 30 or 35 minutes.

41. PEACH PIE.--Fresh peaches make a very delicious pie. Canned peaches may be used as well, but they do not make so good a pie. Less sugar will be needed if canned peaches are used instead of fresh ones because they are usually canned with sugar. Clingstone peaches may be used rather advantageously for making pie because the fact that they cannot be cut from the stones in uniform pieces makes less difference for pie than for serving in almost any other way.

PEACH PIE

1 qt. sliced peaches 3/4 c. sugar Pinch of salt 3 Tb. flour

Fill the lower crust with the sliced peaches and sprinkle with the sugar, salt, and flour, which have been previously mixed. Moisten the edge of the lower crust, cover with the top crust, and bake in a moderately hot oven for 30 to 40 minutes. Peach pie served hot with whipped cream makes a very delicious dessert.

42. THICKENING JUICY FRUITS FOR PIES.--When particularly juicy fruit, such as berries, cherries, peaches, etc., is used for pie, flour or other starchy material must necessarily be used to thicken the juice and thus prevent it from running out when the pie is served. If the fruit is very sour, a proportionately larger quantity of flour will be necessary. This is due to the fact that the acid of the fruit reduces the starch in the flour to dextrine, and this form of carbohydrate does not have so much thickening power as the starch in its original form had.

The same thing takes place when browned flour is used in making sauce or gravy. As experience will prove, browned flour must be used in greater quantity than white flour or a thinner sauce will be the result. The browned flour and the flour cooked with the acid of fruits are similar so far as their thickening power is concerned, for the one is reduced to dextrine by the application of dry heat or hot fat and the other by moist heat and the presence of acid.

43. RHUBARB PIE.--Rhubarb is practically the first fresh material for pie that can be purchased in the spring and is therefore very much appreciated. The most popular form in which it is served is probably in pie. It requires considerable sugar in order to make it palatable and should be thickened with starchy material so that it will not be too juicy when it is served.

RHUBARB PIE

1 qt. rhubarb 1-1/2 c. sugar 2 Tb. corn starch Pinch of salt

Cut the rhubarb into inch lengths without removing the skin and place in the lower crust. Mix the sugar, corn starch, and salt, and sprinkle over the top. Cover with a top crust and bake in a moderately hot oven for about 35 minutes. If desired, some lemon rind may be grated into the pie to give additional flavor.