Chapter 19

98. RADISHES are a root vegetable used almost exclusively as a relish or to lend flavor to a vegetable-salad mixture. They are easily and successfully grown and are plentiful and cheap, except when they are out of season and must be raised in hothouses. Numerous varieties of radishes differing from one another in size, shape, and color are raised. The red ones are generally preferred, because they lend color to a dish or a meal, but the white and brown varieties are just as desirable so far as flavor is concerned.

99. Radishes contain very little food value, being about equal to celery and cucumbers in this respect. They do not supply anything valuable to a meal except mineral salts. Although some persons consider radishes difficult to digest, they contain almost nothing that has to be digested, for they are composed largely of cellulose, which does not digest, and water. Radishes disagree with some persons because, like onions and cabbage, they contain a strong volatile oil that gives them their flavor.

100. Since radishes are always eaten raw, they require very little in the way of preparation. The principal thing is to see that they are perfectly clean and as crisp as possible. To make them crisp, allow them to stand in cold water for some time before using them. Then remove the tops and the roots and scrub thoroughly with a vegetable brush. The small red radishes can be made very attractive by cutting the skin in sections to resemble the petals of a rose. When prepared in this way, a small portion of the green top is allowed to remain.

SALSIFY AND ITS PREPARATION

101. SALSIFY is a root vegetable resembling in food value such other root vegetables as carrots and parsnips. Because it has a flavor similar to that of oysters, especially when it is used for soup, it has received the name of _vegetable oyster_. It consists of long slender roots that are covered with tiny roots. It is somewhat difficult to clean and prepare, but as it may be stored through the entire winter and is particularly desirable for the making of soup, it is a valuable vegetable.

102. In preparing salsify for cooking, scrape the roots rather than peel them. Then put them in a solution of cold salt water made by using 1 teaspoonful of salt to each quart of water and keep them there until ready to cook them. This precaution will, to a certain extent, prevent the discoloration that always takes place in salsify as soon as the skin is removed. When thus prepared, salsify lends itself to the same forms of preparation as do the other root vegetables.

103. BUTTERED SALSIFY.--The simplest way in which to cook salsify is to cut it in thin slices, boil it until tender, and then serve it with butter.

Wash and scrape the desired quantity of salsify and slice in thin slices. Put to cook in boiling salted water, and cook until it can be easily pierced with a fork. Drain off the water, season with pepper and, if necessary, additional salt, and add 1 tablespoonful of butter for each four persons to be served. Allow the butter to melt and serve the salsify hot.

104. CREAMED VEGETABLE OYSTERS.--If creamed vegetables are favored, vegetable oysters served with a cream sauce will be very much relished. Clean and scrape the salsify and cut it into 1/4-inch slices. Put to cook in boiling salted water, cook until tender, and then drain. Make a medium white sauce and pour this over the cooked vegetable. Heat together and serve. 105. SCALLOPED VEGETABLE OYSTERS.--A very appetizing scalloped dish can be made of salsify by following the directions given in the accompanying recipe.

SCALLOPED VEGETABLE OYSTERS (Sufficient to Serve Six)

2 c. cooked vegetable oysters 1 c. bread crumbs Salt and pepper 1-1/2 c. thin white sauce

Cook the vegetable oysters as explained in Art. 103. Sprinkle a layer of crumbs in the bottom of a well-greased baking dish, place a layer of the cooked vegetable oysters on top of this, and season with salt and pepper. Place a second layer of crumbs and the remainder of the vegetable oysters in the dish, and sprinkle again with salt and pepper. Pour the white sauce over this, and put the remainder of the crumbs on top. Place in a hot oven and bake until well heated through and the top is brown. Serve from the baking dish.

SQUASH AND ITS PREPARATION

SUMMER SQUASH

106. SUMMER SQUASH is a fruit vegetable belonging to the same class as eggplant, peppers, etc. and occurring in many varieties. The different kinds of this vegetable vary greatly in size, shape, and color, but all of them may be prepared in practically the same way and used for the same purposes. They get their name from the fact that they are grown and used during the summer season; in fact, they must be used at this time, for they do not permit of storage.

Summer squash contains a great deal of water, and for this reason its food value is very low, being about equal to that of lettuce, celery, etc. Because of the large percentage of water in its composition, as little water as possible should be added in its cooking, or the result will be a vegetable so watery as to be unattractive and unpalatable. Another precaution that should be taken in its preparation is to remove the seeds and the skins. Many housewives think it unnecessary to do this, for both the skins and the seeds can be eaten after cooking; but most persons prefer to have them removed, as the dish appears more appetizing. _Vegetable marrow_ is a type of summer squash and may be prepared for the table by any of the recipes for summer squash.

107. STEWED SUMMER SQUASH.--The usual way in which to cook summer squash is to stew it. If properly cooked and well seasoned, stewed squash makes a very tasty dish.

Wash and peel the desired number of summer squashes, remove the seeds, and cut into small pieces. Put over the flame in just enough water to start the cooking and add sufficient salt to season well. Cook until tender enough to be pierced with a fork and most of the water is boiled away, being careful not to scorch. Remove from the fire, season with pepper, and add 1 tablespoonful of butter for each four persons to be served. Mash until the squash is as fine as desired and serve at once.

108. SAUTED SUMMER SQUASH.--For variety, summer squash is sometimes sliced, coated with egg and crumbs, and then sauted until well browned.

To prepare it in this way, wash and peel the squash and cut it into slices about 1/4 inch thick. Roll first in beaten egg diluted with milk or water and then in fine crumbs. Saute in a small amount of fat in a frying pan until well browned, and then turn and brown on the other side. Serve hot.

WINTER SQUASH

109. WINTER SQUASH is the kind of squash that may be removed from the vine in the fall and stored for winter use. Although both summer and winter squashes are closely related, they differ considerably in appearance, flavor, texture, and composition. The different varieties of winter squash are usually larger than summer squashes and have a very hard outside covering; also, they contain less water and more carbohydrate and, consequently, have a higher food value. Winter squashes are usually taken from the vines in the fall before the frost sets in, and before they are placed in storage they are allowed to lie in the sunshine for a few days until the skin hardens and becomes flinty. If the outside covering is unmarred when the squashes are stored, they will remain in good condition almost the entire winter season, provided the storage place is cool and dry.

110. To prepare winter squash for cooking, cut it open, remove the seeds, and peel off the outside skin. Because of the hardness of the covering, a cleaver or a hatchet is generally required to open the squash and cut it into pieces. With this done, scrape out the seeds and, with a very sharp large knife, peel off the skin. The squash may then be cooked in any suitable manner.

111. MASHED SQUASH.--If winter squash is desired as a vegetable, it is very often boiled and then mashed. Squash prepared in this way, with the exception of the seasoning, is also used for pie that is similar to pumpkin; in fact, many persons prefer the flavor of squash pie to that of pumpkin pie.

Cut pieces of peeled winter squash into cubes about 1 inch in size. Put these to cook in a small amount of boiling water, add enough salt to season, and cook until tender and quite dry. Season the cooked squash with pepper, add 1 tablespoonful of butter for each four persons to be served, and, if desired to increase the sweet taste, add a small amount of sugar. Mash until smooth and serve hot.

112. BAKED SQUASH.--Winter squash, because of its hard covering, is very satisfactory when baked in the shell, as shown in Fig. 19. If it is not desired to cook it in a whole piece, the squash may be cut into pieces about 3 inches square or into triangular pieces.

Remove the seeds from the squash, sprinkle each with salt and pepper, and dot with butter, as shown. Place in a hot oven directly on the grate or in a shallow pan, and bake until the contents of the shells are tender. Remove from the oven, and serve from the shells. If desired, the squash may be scooped from the shells after baking, seasoned at that time instead of when put in the oven, and then served in a vegetable dish.

TOMATOES AND THEIR PREPARATION

113. TOMATOES are a fruit vegetable that may be either cooked or prepared raw in many different ways. They are usually red when ripe, and because of this color they are particularly attractive on the table. Green or partly ripe tomatoes are also used in the preparation of many dishes. Tomatoes are composed largely of water, and for this reason their food value is low, being about the same as that of greens. This large proportion of water is also responsible for the fact that they do not keep for a great length of time. Tomatoes, however, have a long season. They begin to appear in the market early in the spring and they may be obtained from this time until the frost kills the vines in the fall.

114. While tomatoes appeal to the majority of persons, they disagree with some on account of the acid they contain. This acid is similar to that found in some fruits, and it is present in greater quantity in cooked tomatoes than in raw ones, the heating of the vegetable apparently increasing the acidity. This acidity of tomatoes may be reduced by the addition of soda, and while soda produces a marked change in the flavor, it is necessary in the preparation of some dishes. For instance, in the case of cream-of-tomato soup, soda must be added to reduce the acidity and thus keep the milk or cream used in preparing this dish from curdling.

115. The skin of tomatoes, whether they are to be eaten raw or cooked, is usually undesirable. Therefore, in preparing tomatoes for the table, the skins are generally removed. In order to do this, first dip the tomatoes into boiling water for several seconds and then immediately into cold water. This will loosen the skins, which may then be peeled off very thinly, and very little of the tomato will be wasted.

116. STEWED TOMATOES.--The usual way of preparing tomatoes is to stew them. Stewed tomatoes may be served plain, but they can be improved very decidedly by toasting cubes of bread and adding these to the tomatoes just before serving.

Remove the skins and stem ends from the desired number of tomatoes, and either cut the tomatoes into pieces or allow them to remain whole. Put to cook with little or no water, as the tomatoes themselves usually provide sufficient water. Season with salt, and cook until the tomatoes are reduced to a mushy consistency. Just before removing from the stove, add a dash of pepper and a small amount of butter.

117. SCALLOPED TOMATOES.--A very appetizing way in which to cook tomatoes is to scallop them according to the accompanying recipe.

SCALLOPED TOMATOES (Sufficient to Serve Six)

1 c. crumbs, buttered 2 c. stewed tomatoes 1 tsp. salt Dash of pepper 1 Tb. butter

Grease a baking dish and place a layer of the crumbs in the bottom. Place a layer of tomatoes over them, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and dot with the butter. Add another layer of crumbs and the remainder of the tomatoes, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and again dot with butter. Place the remainder of the crumbs on top. Bake in a hot oven until well heated through and the crumbs on top are brown. Serve hot from the baking dish.

118. STUFFED TOMATOES.--Tomatoes prove to be very satisfactory when stuffed with a well-seasoned stuffing and then baked. Medium-sized tomatoes that are firm and unblemished should be selected for stuffing.

STUFFED TOMATOES (Sufficient to Serve Six)

6 tomatoes 1-1/2 c. crumbs 2 Tb. butter 1 small onion, chopped 1 tsp. celery salt 1/2 tsp. salt Dash of pepper

Remove the stem end from each tomato and scoop out the inside so that a hollow shell remains. Chop the pulp of the tomatoes into small pieces and add the crumbs, melted butter, onion, celery salt, salt, and pepper. Mix together thoroughly. If the tomatoes do not furnish enough liquid to moisten the crumbs, add a little water. Pack the stuffing into the tomatoes, allowing it to heap up on top, and place the tomatoes side by side in a shallow pan. Set in a hot oven and bake until the tomato shells are tender enough to be pierced with a fork and the stuffing is well heated through. Serve at once.

119. STUFFED TOMATOES WITH CHEESE CARROTS.--An attractive way in which to serve stuffed tomatoes is shown in Fig. 20. The tomatoes are filled with a tasty stuffing and then baked. Yellow cream cheese is made to resemble tiny carrots, and these, together with parsley, are used to garnish the platter in which the tomatoes are placed.

STUFFED TOMATOES WITH CHEESE CARROTS (Sufficient to Serve Six)

6 medium-sized tomatoes 4 Tb. bacon or ham fat 2 Tb. chopped onion 1/2 c. chopped ham 1-1/2 c. stale bread crumbs 1/2 tsp. salt 1/8 tsp. pepper 2 Tb. chopped parsley Yellow cream cheese Parsley

Cut the tops from the tomatoes and remove the pulp. Melt the fat in a frying pan, add the chopped onion, ham, tomato pulp, bread crumbs, salt, pepper, and parsley. Heat thoroughly and mix well. Fill the tomatoes with the stuffing, which should be quite moist, put them in a shallow pan, and bake them until the tomato shell may be easily pierced with a fork. Mash yellow cream cheese and, if necessary, moisten it slightly with cream. Shape it into tiny carrots with the fingers, and put a piece of parsley in one end for leaves. Place the baked tomatoes on a platter and garnish with the carrots and sprigs of parsley. Serve.

120. SAUTED TOMATOES.--Half ripened tomatoes are delicious when sauted. Cut the desired number of such tomatoes into slices about 1/4 inch thick, and roll first in beaten egg and then in stale bread crumbs or cracker crumbs. Saute in a small amount of fat until they are brown on one side; then turn and brown on the other side. Remove from the pan and serve at once.

121. CREAMED TOMATOES.--A rather unusual, but nevertheless very appetizing, way of preparing tomatoes consists in sauteing them in fat and then serving them with a cream sauce on freshly toasted bread.

When it is desired to prepare tomatoes in this manner, select medium-sized ones and cut them into slices 1/2 inch thick. Roll the slices first in egg and then in stale bread crumbs or cracker crumbs. Saute in a generous amount of fat until brown, drain carefully, and brown on the other side. When done, remove from the pan. Add 2 tablespoonfuls of flour to the fat that remains in the pan, and stir until the flour becomes light brown. Add 1-1/2 cupfuls of milk and stir until thick. Place the slices of tomato on freshly toasted bread and pour the sauce over them.

TURNIPS AND THEIR PREPARATION

122. TURNIPS, which are a root vegetable, occur in two varieties, _white_ and _yellow_. The white ones are commonly known as _turnips_ and the yellow ones are called _rutabagas_. Although differing in color, both varieties have much the same flavor and may be prepared in the same ways. Therefore, whenever a recipe calls for turnips, rutabagas may be used as well.

123. In food value, turnips are similar to beets, carrots, and parsnips. They have a strong flavor, which is disliked by many persons and disagrees with some. However, much of this can be dissipated by cooking them with the cover of the kettle removed, so that when properly prepared they furnish a pleasant variety to the winter menu. They have good storing qualities and can be kept very easily through the winter. Toward spring it is more difficult to cook them soft, as the cellulose in them becomes harder and they are likely to develop woody fiber.

124. In preparing turnips for cooking, scrub them until thoroughly clean and then peel, wasting no more of the vegetable than is necessary. They may then be cut up as desired for the recipe to be prepared.

125. STEWED TURNIPS.--When turnips are stewed until tender and then seasoned with salt and pepper and flavored with butter they form a very palatable dish.

To prepare them in this way, select the desired number, scrub them until clean, and then peel them. Cut them into dice about 1/2 inch in size, and put these to cook in boiling salted water, allowing the cover to remain off the kettle during the cooking. Cook until they may be easily pierced with a fork and drain the water from them. Season with additional salt, if necessary, and with pepper, and add 1 tablespoonful of butter for each four persons to be served. Allow the butter to melt and serve hot.

126. MASHED TURNIPS.--Turnips, like potatoes, are a very good vegetable to mash. Prepare the desired number in the manner explained in Art. 125. Cook in boiling salted water with the kettle cover removed. When tender enough to be mashed easily, drain the water from them, mash with a potato masher, and season with additional salt if necessary and with pepper and butter. Allow the butter to melt and serve hot.

127. CREAMED TURNIPS.--Turnips, both yellow and white, make an excellent dish when dressed with a cream sauce. Prepare the desired number of turnips by cleaning and peeling them and cutting them into dice about 1/2 inch in size. Cook until tender in boiling salted water and drain. Prepare a medium white sauce and pour over the turnips. Serve hot.

VEGETABLE COMBINATIONS

128. The recipes given for the various kinds of vegetables pertain in most cases to merely one vegetable, and this is the way in which this food is usually prepared. However, there are times when it is an advantage to combine two or more vegetables. For instance, it is sometimes desired to give additional variety to the menu or to utilize small quantities of vegetable that alone would not be sufficient to serve the family. Then, again, two vegetables are often prepared together in order to obtain an attractive color combination. In view of these facts, several recipes for the most usual combinations of vegetables are here given, so that the housewife may not be at a loss when she wishes to combine two or more vegetables. It must not be thought that these are the only combinations that can be prepared, for often vegetables can be combined to suit the housewife's taste and needs.

129. CARROTS AND PEAS.--If an attractive combination, as well as an appetizing dish, is desired, carrots and peas should be prepared together and served with butter or a vegetable or a cream sauce. This combination may be served plain, but if there are any mashed potatoes on hand and an attractive dish is desired, it may be served in potato rosettes, as shown in Fig. 21.

Clean and scrape the desired number of young, tender carrots, and cut them into dice about the size of the peas that are to be used. Shell an equal quantity of green peas. Put the two vegetables together in boiling salted water and cook until tender. If there is any possibility that the carrots will not cook in as short a period of time as the peas, cook them for some time before adding the peas. When tender, pour off the water, add additional salt, if necessary, and pepper, and dress with butter or, if preferred, with a vegetable or a white sauce. Heat through thoroughly and serve.

If it is desired to serve the carrots and peas in the rosettes mentioned, force hot mashed potato through a pastry tube and form the required number of rosettes on a platter, as shown. In the center of each rosette put a spoonful or two of the carrots and peas.

In case fresh peas cannot be secured, canned peas may be substituted. When this is done, the carrots should be cooked until tender and the peas added just before the sauce is poured over the vegetables.

130. SUCCOTASH.--A combination of fresh shelled beans and sweet corn is known as succotash. To prepare this dish, shell the beans and put them to cook in boiling salted water. Cook until they are tender and the water has boiled down until it is greatly reduced in quantity. Then cut an equal amount of corn from the cob and add to the beans. Cook for a few minutes longer or until the water is sufficiently reduced, so that the combination may be served without pouring any water off. Dress with butter and season with pepper and, if necessary, additional salt.

During the winter, when green corn and fresh beans cannot be secured, succotash can be made by using dried or canned corn and dried beans.

131. CORN AND TOMATOES.--A somewhat unusual vegetable combination is made by cooking tomatoes and green corn together.

Prepare the desired number of tomatoes in the usual way for stewing and cut an equal amount of sweet corn from the cob. Put the two vegetables together in a saucepan and cook until the tomatoes are well stewed. Season with salt, pepper, and sugar, if desired, and add a small piece of butter. Serve hot.

132. CORN, STRING BEANS, AND TOMATOES.--Those who care for the combination of corn and tomatoes will find beans a very agreeable addition to this dish.

Prepare the corn and tomatoes as explained in Art. 131, and to them add young, tender string beans that have been previously cooked in boiling salted water. Add the desired seasoning and a small amount of butter. When thoroughly heated, serve.

133. PEAS AND POTATOES.--As a rule, the first green peas and the first new potatoes come into the market at about the same time. If a delicious combination is desired, these two vegetables should be cooked together and then dressed in any desirable way.

Select small potatoes, scrape them, and put them to cook in boiling salted water. Shell an equal amount of green peas, and add them to the potatoes about 20 minutes before the potatoes become tender. Cook until both vegetables are tender, and then drain the water from them. Dress with butter, vegetable sauce, cream sauce, or thin cream and serve.

134. TURNIPS AND POTATOES.--Persons who are likely to find the flavor of turnips disagreeable can usually eat them when they are combined with potatoes.

Pare an equal number of Irish potatoes and turnips and cut them into thick slices. Put them to cook in boiling salted water and cook with the cover off the kettle until both are tender. Drain and dress with butter or add butter and mash together. Serve hot.

135. NEW ENGLAND BOILED DINNER.--A combination of food that is much used by the people of the New England States and has become famous throughout the United States, consists of corned beef, potatoes, turnips, and cabbage. As may well be imagined, such a combination forms practically all that is necessary for a home dinner.