Part 2

In any event, one shaft 6 inches square running through the ceiling of the cellar to the outside will be sufficient for any cellar that is fit for the wintering of bees. During the coldest part of the winter the interchange of air between the inside of the cellar and the outside will be materially increased by the great difference in temperature and this one ventilator may be entirely or nearly closed. During the milder weather of the fall and spring this amount of ventilation will do no harm. The top of the ventilating shaft, which should extend at least 6 feet above the outer roof, may be painted black in order to induce greater movement of air when the sun shines. The shaft should be so arranged that it does not admit light to the cellar.

PUTTING THE BEES INTO THE CELLAR.

Before the bees are carried into the cellar it should be well aired and cleaned, and it will be well to keep it open for several days beforehand. No debris or refuse should be left in the cellar when the bees are taken in.

TIME.

For zone 1 (fig. 1) it is usually desirable to wait until about the middle of November before putting the bees into winter quarters. If one could know exactly when the bees would have the last opportunity for a cleansing flight, they would be put into the cellar just after that, but we can not always be sure that there will be suitable weather for such flight in late November, and there is, therefore, considerable doubt every year as to just the right time to put the bees away. Frequently it happens that the weather is suitable for a flight about November 20, and it is best to wait until then before attempting to put the bees in the cellar. The flight of only a few bees from the hive should not be construed as a cleansing flight. In this connection it is highly desirable that the beekeeper keep a careful watch of the weather maps daily, so that he may know at all times about what weather may be expected for a few days in advance. For the beekeeper's purpose the daily forecasts published in newspapers are scarcely enough; and if no daily weather maps are convenient near by, it will repay the beekeeper well to subscribe for them. They are valuable not only at the time of putting the bees into the cellar but at many other times of the year.

Soon after a period when the barometric pressure has been low, bringing high temperatures suitable for flights (at least 60° F.), there usually will be a period when the barometric pressure is high, bringing lower, temperatures. At the shifting from low to high barometric pressure there is frequently a time when it is cloudy. This is a fine time to put the bees into the cellar. These periods of high and low barometric pressure follow each other with rather marked regularity in the fall, and it is rather safe to assume that just at the end of the well-defined low pressure which next follows after November 15 is the best time to put the bees into the cellar. It is better to put the bees in the cellar a week or so before the last opportunity for flight than to put them in after exposure to cold which is not followed by a cleansing flight.

For zone 2 it will be desirable to put the bees away a little earlier, although the oncoming of winter is not so much earlier in the North as one might imagine.

HOW TO CARRY THE BEES.

When one person carries the bees into the cellar the best method is to stand at the back of the hive and grasp the bottom of the hive with both hands. The hive is then lifted and the cover brought up against the chest firmly, permitting the operator to walk without interference and with a minimum of stooping. If there are cleats on the ends of the hive bodies, those may be rested on the forearms, although with this method there is some danger that the bottoms will drop off unless they are stapled.

If the temperature is sufficiently low (slightly above freezing), there will be no need of closing the entrances when the bees are being carried in. Every care should be taken not to jar the hives more than is absolutely necessary from the time that they are lifted until they are in their final place in the cellar.

If more than one person is engaged in carrying in the hives, the hives may be placed carefully on carriers with handles, and two or more of them may be carried at one time.

HOW TO STACK THE HIVES.

The bottom hive in a pile should rest on an empty hive body or some other such support of about that size (figs. 2 and 3). The hives then should be placed one on top of the other until they are four high. It is best by far to put each pile of four hives about 6 inches from adjacent piles, so that in handling the hives on one pile there is no disturbance of bees in other piles. Allowance is made for this space between the piles of hives in the estimate of the floor space needed for each colony (p. 9).

MAINTENANCE OF THE CELLAR DURING THE WINTER.

If the cellar is properly constructed it will need little if any care during the time that the bees are inside. It is only the poor bee cellar which requires constant attention to prevent changes in temperature.

TEMPERATURE OF THE CELLAR.

There has been much discussion as to the best temperature of the cellar during the winter. Commonly it is stated that a temperature of 40° to 45° F. is best, but this is colder than usually is best for the finest results. A temperature below 40° F. is invariably bad for the bees, and a cellar in which the temperature goes as low as freezing is not a fit place for bees.

It has been found by the authors that bees do the least amount of work when the temperature of the air immediately surrounding them (inside the hive) stands at 57° F. This is, therefore, the temperature which the beekeeper should bear in mind, rather than to lay too much stress on the temperature of the cellar itself. The place for a thermometer in the bee cellar is inside the entrance of a good colony where it may be read easily by simply pulling it out. A chemical thermometer is best for this purpose, and it should register 52° F. or more inside the hive entrance. In order to have the right temperature within the hive it usually will be best to have the temperature of the cellar at about 50° F. or slightly higher. As will be shown later, however, it is quite possible to have the right temperature within the hive when the temperature of the cellar is a few degrees lower than that stated.

If the beekeeper will pay attention to the temperature of the interior of the hive he will find that in colder cellars it is desirable to give the hives some insulation to conserve the heat generated by the bees in much the same way that this heat is conserved when bees are packed outdoors, although the amount of protection will be much less. In a cellar where the temperature falls to 45° F. it will be found best to have the covers of the hives sealed on tightly and the entrances reduced to 3/8 inch by 2 inches. In a cellar with a temperature of 50° F. or more the entrances may be left open the full width of the hive. If there is a tendency for the temperature to fall to 45° F. or less, the tops of the hives may be protected by cushions of chaff or other materials placed at least on the top of the uppermost hives, for each of the lower three hives is protected somewhat by the one above it.

It will be impossible to maintain the temperatures recommended unless the cellar is built in the way described, or in some other way by which the cellar is equally well insulated. It is impossible to maintain an equable and high temperature in a cellar the walls and ceiling of which are exposed to the outside air.

VENTILATION OF THE CELLAR.

If the proper temperature is maintained in the cellar there will be little need of ventilation, for in almost all cases there will be sufficient interchange of air to keep the bees in good condition. If the temperature is as low as 45° F., a little ventilation will be needed, although most of the bee cellars that have been built have had too much ventilation, and as a result it has been impossible to maintain a correct temperature within them. In cold weather the tendency toward an interchange of air is greatest, and at such times the ventilators may be entirely closed. In mild weather it makes no difference if large ventilators are open, unless this results in too great a rise in temperature.

In a well-insulated cellar it should not be necessary to ventilate at night at the approach of spring to cool the air inside, for the bees will not get so warm from their own activity as will bees in a cellar that is or has been too cold. The greatest problem in most cellars is to maintain the right temperature during the spring just before the bees are to be removed. The trouble is that in most cellars--those which are too cold in winter--the bees generate heat constantly during the winter and as a result have an accumulation of feces in the intestines, resulting in a condition known as dysentery. For this reason they become excited easily, and beekeepers have thought it necessary to ventilate the cellar at night freely in order to remedy this trouble. The proper method, of course, is to prevent it by keeping the temperature higher during the winter, but if the temperature has fallen too low during the winter ventilation at night seems to help somewhat. It is safe, however, to say that a cellar in which this happens is not satisfactory as a place to keep bees during the winter, and steps should be taken to insulate it more completely before bees are put into it again. If the bees are wintering on stores that are not of the best quality the tendency to accumulate feces will be far greater, even with the right temperatures inside the hives, and if there is dysentery it may be relieved somewhat by ventilation, although this is simply reducing a symptom and is not removing the cause of the trouble.

VENTILATION OF THE HIVE.

Since bees in a good cellar require little ventilation, practically no attention need be paid to this subject if the cellar has been built in the way advised. If the temperature of the cellar tends to fall too low, it is advisable to reduce the entrances of the hives, for with a greater difference between the temperatures within and outside the hive the tendency for interchange of air will be correspondingly greater. In any cellar fit for the wintering of bees it will be neither necessary nor desirable to ventilate the hives at the top, as sometimes has been recommended.

The ventilation of the hive within the cellar is not so much for the elimination of foul air as for the escape of moisture, and therefore the amount of ventilation needed for the hive depends upon the humidity of the air within the cellar. If the temperature of the cellar is kept high enough there will be no condensation of moisture within the hive, and if water is ever observed on the covers of the hives it is conclusive proof that the cellar is too cold for the bees. In a cellar so cold that condensed moisture shows on the bottoms of the hives stops should be taken at once to raise the temperature.

Various attempts have been made in the past to provide for the cellar fresh air which has been warmed somewhat before entry. The most common method is to have the air pass through tiles under ground for perhaps 100 feet before it enters the cellar. In general, it may be said that none of these devices has been worth the trouble and expense involved and none of them has served the purpose for which it was intended. It has been proposed also to ventilate the bee cellar by wind pressure. The devices which have been made for such ventilation will function only when there is considerable wind and then only when the wind is in the right quarter; therefore they are not at all to be recommended. By far the best plan is simply to build the bee cellar correctly, for, then little ventilation will be needed.

CLEANING THE CELLAR.

In even the best of cellars there will be some dead bees on the floor, and those may be cleaned up once or twice during the winter. In a cellar with proper temperature there will be few dead bees until after the middle of the winter, but the death rate increases toward the close of the winter. If the cellar is cleaned, it should be done with as little disturbance as possible. No bright light should be admitted at this time, although a moderate amount seems to do little harm until after the bees have an accumulation of feces in the intestines.

REMOVING THE BEES FOR FLIGHT DURING THE WINTER.

Some beekeepers have advocated removing the colonies toward the end of the winter for a flight on some warm day and then replacing them, on the supposition that the flight would enable the bees to stand a longer period of confinement. It is found, however, that if bees are disturbed, as by carrying them out, they begin brood-rearing almost invariably, and this does more harm than the flight does good.

DISTURBANCE DURING THE WINTER.

Work in or about the bee cellar while the bees are confined should be done with the least possible disturbance of the bees, for often a little handling or jarring of the hive causes sufficient excitement to increase the temperature of the cluster to the point where brood-rearing begins. This is true especially in late winter. It is by far the wisest plan, therefore, to stay out of the cellar during the winter, except on the few occasions when a little work, such as cleaning out, makes a visit seem needed. Care should be taken not to jar the hives or to allow light to strike the entrance. Of course, if bees are being wintered in a cellar which has the right temperature, a little disturbance does little or no harm, but there is no reason why bees should be disturbed in winter and the beekeeper should not run any risk of starting brood-rearing.

REMOVAL OF THE BEES FROM THE CELLAR.

TIME.

The old rule of many beekeepers is to take the bees from the cellar when the soft maples are in bloom. This is an excellent rule in localities where there are trees of this species. In general, in zone 1 the right time to take the bees out of the cellar is about the time of the spring equinox (March 21).

In choosing a time for the removal of the bees, the beekeeper again should watch the weather maps closely. He should choose a time when a high-pressure area is just passing and at the approach of a well-defined low-pressure area. At such a time the weather will be cool, not permitting the bees to fly, but at the time of the low-pressure area the weather will become warmer, allowing the good flights, which are then badly needed.

If the bees are taken out at a time when they can fly at once--and some beekeepers prefer this--they should be taken out in the early morning, so that they can have a good flight before night. Bees should not be taken from the cellar at a time when they can fly only a little, but they should either be taken out when they can not fly at all or at a time when they can fly freely almost at once. Bees in good condition rarely fly freely unless the outside temperature is as high as 60° F.

PREVENTION OF DRIFTING.

When the bees are taken from the cellar and placed on their summer positions they sometimes tend to leave the weaker, colonies and on their return to collect in those with greater populations. This is known as "drifting." In general, the bees tend to drift toward the windward side of the apiary. Most frequently they join the hives that were first set out and which have established a strong flight by the time the neighboring colonies have first taken wing. The tendencies, therefore, are to join flying colonies, stronger colonies, and the end colonies in a row. The condition of the bees plays a large part in drifting, for if the bees are badly in need of a flight because of dysentery they go at once into the air without properly marking the location of their hive, and therefore are not able to find it when they return.

To prevent drifting, it is best to set the bees out when it is too cold for them to fly, so that as the weather warms, permitting flight, this will take place more naturally. It is also well to reduce the entrances so that as the bees leave the hive their tendency to orient themselves will be greater. It is claimed by some beekeepers that if the cellar is well aired the night before the bees are to be removed, they will be in better condition and will drift less, but it is not clear what difference this can make unless the clusters are made tighter because of lower temperatures.

Beekeepers have discussed the question whether, after removal, the bees should be placed on the same stands occupied by them the fall before. If the bees could remember their old location so that they would return to it, even after an interval of four months, it would be necessary, or at least desirable, to place each colony on the same stand which it occupied previously. There is no evidence, however, that the memory of the bees is so good, and it is usually the ease that the bees of a colony will lose the memory of location within a week; therefore no attention need be paid to this feature.

PROTECTION OF THE HIVES IN THE SPRING.

The greatest objection to wintering bees in cellars is that after they are removed they are exposed to low temperatures. The ideal practice would be to pack the bees after taking them out in much the same way that bees are packed for outdoor wintering, but the work involved makes this impracticable. There can be no doubt that protection at this time would be beneficial. As has been pointed out, the apiary site should be one in which the hives are well protected from wind, and it is advantageous if the apiary grounds slope toward the south in order that the bees may have the fullest advantage of heat from the sun. If the bees have been wintered in the cellar in double-walled hives they will have the advantage of some protection when they are taken from the cellar. The beekeeper may feel safe in giving the bees all the protection possible at the time that they are taken from the cellar, knowing that it is impossible at this time or any other to insulate the hive too well.

In deciding whether the hives should be packed in the spring the beekeeper should be governed largely by the condition of the bees. If they have wintered well they will be able to stand greater extremes of temperature in the spring without loss, but if they have been wintered in a cold cellar they will be greatly injured by cold weather after they have been set out. Of course, the need of protection is determined chiefly by the kind of weather prevailing during the first few weeks after the bees have been taken from the cellar. In some seasons the weather is so fine that the bees would be little benefited by packing or other protection, but the beekeeper can not influence the weather, and the only safe plan is so to place the bees that if the weather does turn cold they will still be safe. Here, as everywhere else in beekeeping, it pays to be on the safe side, so far as protecting the bees is concerned.

PROVIDING BREEDING ROOM AND STORES IN THE SPRING.

After the main honey-flow is past it is usually desirable that each colony be kept in two hive bodies of full depth. Most producers of extracted honey do this, but too many producers of comb-honey are not adequately supplied with hive bodies and do not give the second body. These two hive bodies should be left with the bees at least until brood-rearing ceases, and at this time one of them should be removed if the bees are to be wintered in the cellar. As has been pointed out in other bulletins of the department, if the bees are wintered outdoors they will do better in the two hive bodies throughout the winter.

In the upper hive body will be found a considerable amount of the honey to be used by the bees up to the time of the next honey-flow. Usually there will be enough in the lower hive body for the bees while they are in the cellar, especially where comb-honey is produced, but if the lower hive body is not adequately supplied with winter stores (perhaps 15 to 20 pounds) the beekeeper should move some of the stores. It is also a good practice to winter the bees in the cellar in a hive containing the full stores, except that this makes it necessary to carry in hives weighing perhaps 80 pounds.

After the second hive bodies have been removed, if they contain honey they should be stored in a warm, dry place, where the honey will not be injured. If it is possible to place such hive bodies in the furnace room of the residence, this will be found to be ideal. If no such place is available, the beekeeper may keep these in a dry cellar or other location where the honey will not be exposed to rapid changes in temperature. For this purpose a place suitable for the storage of comb-honey is desirable. It should be pointed out that the honey in these combs should not be extracted. It will be needed for the building up of the colonies the next spring, and to remove it is simply to reduce the crop of the next season.

Some time within two weeks after the bees have been taken from the cellar, depending on the weather, each colony should be provided with its second hive body. Preferably, this should be placed underneath the hive body in which the bees were wintered in order that the propolis at the top of the hive may not be broken. At this time an examination of the colonies may be made from below to see whether any of them are queenless or require immediate attention for other reasons, but at this season there is little that the beekeeper can do that will help the bees other than to provide them with room for the brood and with adequate supplies of stores. Queens should not be clipped at this time, and usually not until settled weather has arrived. Further spring manipulation is not necessary and the bees are better off if the beekeeper lets them alone.

If the bees have been requeened at the proper time and if the total amount of stores is given as indicated, it will not be worth while to go through the bees to look for queenless colonies. The beekeeper should see to it that at least 45 pounds of honey are provided for each colony from the time of the last honey-flow in the fall to the beginning of the first main honey-flow of the following season. If this is not given in full, the beekeeper may be sure that the crop of the following year will be reduced. This amount of honey left for the use of the bees is a better investment for the beekeeper than money in the bank.

It should be pointed out that the giving of a second hive body in the spring is not simply a means of supplying additional stores, but more than one hive body will be needed for the development of the brood. A single 10-frame Langstroth hive is not large enough for the development of a good colony of bees, which, before the beginning of the main honey flow, should have brood to fill at least 12 frames.

As was stated earlier in this bulletin, a colony of bees from one season to the next needs three things in abundance--room for the development of the brood, stores of good quality, and protection from wind and cold. In cellar wintering the protection is given by putting the bees in the cellar; the room and stores must be supplied later or the population of the colony will be reduced at the critical time of the honey-flow. If the early sources of honey are abundant, the amount of honey advised will not be consumed. The wise beekeeper, however, does not gamble on the early honey-flows, but invests this honey as life insurance for his bees.

MEASURES OF SUCCESS IN CELLAR WINTERING.