Part 1

Produced by Tom Cosmas compiled from images made available by The Internet Archive.

WINTERING BEES IN CELLARS

E. F. PHILLIPS, Apiculturist

and

GEORGE S. DEMUTH, Apicultural Assistant

Bureau of Entomology

FARMERS' BULLETIN 1014 UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE

Contribution from the Bureau of Entomology

L. O. HOWARD. Chief

Washington, D. C. September, 1918

Show this bulletin to a neighbor. Additional copies may be obtained free from the Division of Publications, United States Department of Agriculture

WASHINGTON GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE : 1918

RESULTS from wintering bees in a cellar are excellent when conditions in the cellar are such as to keep the bees from wearing themselves out by excessive activity. Cellar wintering is practicable where the average outdoor temperature during the winter months is as low as 25° F. A map is given (p. 3) so that the beekeeper may know whether this method is advisable in his locality.

The cellar should be arranged so that the ceiling is below the frost line, and so that the ceiling and side walls are thoroughly protected at all points. The cellar should be kept so that the lowest temperature within the hives is at least 52° F. At this temperature there will be little need of special ventilating arrangements. There should be no condensation of moisture within the hives, and the cellar should be well drained.

Bees should be put into the cellar after a good flight in late November, or earlier in the more northern localities. They should be removed when fresh pollen and nectar are available, usually about the last of March.

Soon after the hives are placed on their summer stands, each colony should be given additional stores and room for the development of a large quantity of brood.

It is important that none of the factors of good wintering be omitted. Several tests are given in this bulletin so that the beekeeper may determine whether his cellar is a satisfactory place for wintering bees.

WINTERING BEES IN CELLARS.

CONTENTS.

Page.

Cellar wintering versus outdoor wintering 3

Where is cellar wintering advisable 4

Essentials to success 5

Necessity of strong colonies in the fall 5

Winter stores 6

Arrangement of the apiary 7

The bee cellar 7

Putting the bees into the cellar 12

Maintenance of the cellar during the winter 13

Removal of the bees from the cellar 17

Providing breeding room and stores in the spring 19

Measures of success in cellar wintering 20

CELLAR WINTERING VERSUS OUTDOOR WINTERING.

Bees in the more northern parts of the United States for many years have been placed by some of the best beekeepers in cellars or special repositories during the coldest parts of the winter. There has been a growing feeling, however, that if outdoor wintering is practicable, in most cases it gives better results, and there has been a decided change from cellar wintering to outdoor wintering within the past decade. The difficulty seems to be that the methods of cellar wintering practiced have not been satisfactory and it seems probable that if as much attention had been given, to the perfection of the methods of cellar wintering as has been given to an improvement of the methods of outdoor wintering, there would not have been as great a change to the outdoor methods as has taken place.

The placing of bees in a cellar is only another way of putting insulation about the hives, the only difference being that in the cellar all of the hives are protected alike and the protection is placed about the apiary instead of around hives in groups or singly. It follows that the principles which apply to successful outdoor wintering apply equally to the protection of the bees in the cellar. It is urged, therefore, that before attempting to winter bees in the cellar, the beekeeper study the bulletins[1] of the department in which these principles are set forth.

[1] Department Bulletin 93, The Temperature of the Honeybee Cluster In Winter. Farmers' Bulletin 695, Outdoor Wintering of Bees.

WHERE IS CELLAR WINTERING ADVISABLE?

Before deciding whether or not the bees are to be wintered in a cellar, several factors should be considered, the chief of these being (1) the winter climate, (2) the kind of winter stores, and (3) the location of the apiary as regards wind protection.

WINTER CLIMATE.

In any locality where the average temperature of the winter months falls below 25° F. (zone 1) cellar wintering may be practiced with profit, and in localities where the average temperature of these months falls as low as 15° F. (zone 2) cellar wintering is much to be preferred. Figure 1 shows the boundaries of these zones for the United States for the month of January, which may be taken as typical of the winter months. It will be noted that these zones do not follow parallels of latitude. As was pointed out in the bulletin of the department on outdoor wintering,[2] it is quite possible to protect bees in zone 1 sufficiently to winter them outdoors, but if a proper cellar is provided, if conditions within the cellar are correct, and if the stores are good and the colonies are strong, just as good results may be obtained from cellar wintering.

[2] Farmers' Bulletin 1012, Preparation of Bees for Outdoor Wintering.

In zone 1 the average temperature of the outside air during the mouth of January is 25° F., or lower in the more northern parts of the zone. This means that in colonies wintered outdoors the bees are compelled to overcome this degree of cold at all times during the coldest part of the winter. If they are so well packed that the heat which they generate is lost slowly, they are able to generate sufficient heat to make the interior of the hive warm enough to allow them to break their cluster as is necessary. In zone 2, however, the bees will be compelled to generate heat sufficient to overcome the more severe cold of that zone, and this calls for the expenditure by the bees of so much more food and vitality that it is more economical to put them in a good cellar during the months of the most severe cold, and cellar wintering is therefore preferable.

CHARACTER OF WINTER STORES.

In localities where the stores for the bees gathered during the latter part of the summer are not of the first quality, it is safer to winter the bees outdoors. This is a large factor in the placing of the zones shown in figure 1, for it is quite common in the region south of zone 1 for the full honey to be of inferior quality. It is extremely fortunate that in both of the zones shown the stores available in winter are usually of the finest quality. As will be shown later, it is highly important that the beekeeper pay special attention to the character of the stores in the hive at the beginning of the winter, and if they are not as good as they should be, this deficiency should be corrected.

LOCATION AS REGARDS WIND PROTECTION.

In zone 1, if the apiary is so badly located that the winter winds are severe, the beekeeper will do well to winter in a cellar, although, as will be shown later, it is not best to choose such a site for the apiary even during the rest of the year.

ESSENTIALS TO SUCCESS.

As in the case of outdoor wintering, the essentials to success in caring for a normal colony of bees from the end of one season's honey-flow to the beginning of the next lie in providing three things in abundance: (1) Stores of good quality, (2) protection from wind and cold, and (3) room for the rearing of brood at appropriate times. These factors must not be lacking at the right times, and if any one is omitted it may prevent the bees from gathering the crop of the following season. These three factors do not apply equally throughout the period of relative inactivity, but as certainly as any one of them is decreased, just so certainly will the crop of the following year be reduced.

In practicing cellar wintering it is unnecessary to leave so much honey with the bees during the time that they are in the cellar, and it is not necessary during that period to leave room for the rearing of brood. During the coldest part of the winter the bees need especially protection from cold and wind, although enough good stores must be in the hive to keep them through that period in good condition. Probably a large part of the failure of beekeepers in practicing cellar wintering comes from the fact that before and after the bees are in the cellar the important factors of stores and breeding room have not been adequately supplied. Before the bees are put into the cellar they must have room for breeding and stores in abundance, and after they are taken out these two factors must be present in greatly increased abundance.

NECESSITY OF STRONG COLONIES IN THE FALL.

As in the case of wintering outdoors, it is wasteful to attempt to winter weak colonies. It is difficult to set standards of colony strength at this season, but it is unwise to attempt to winter colonies that are not strong enough to have brood sufficient to fill three or four Langstroth frames two months before the first killing frost. If the colonies in the apiary are not of the proper strength, it is wise to unite until the proper strength is reached. Any uniting should be done before the close of brood-rearing.

It is of the greatest importance that every colony have a good queen in order that brood-rearing may continue in the fall and may then again proceed rapidly in the spring. Usually it is best to requeen at least every two years, but if good wintering is practiced the colonies will come out of winter quarters so strong and will build up so rapidly in the spring that the queens will soon wear out, making it safer to requeen every year. To get the best results from requeening, all young queens should be introduced so that they begin to lay about two months before the first killing frost.

WINTER STORES.

The stores given to the bees from the end of one season to the beginning of the next are of the first importance. It is necessary to consider both the quality and the quantity of these stores.

QUALITY OF STORES.

As has been stated, it is fortunate that in both of the zones where cellar wintering is or might be practiced the natural stores usually are good. Honeys such as those from white and alsike clovers, sweet clover, alfalfa, wild raspberry, buckwheat, and willowherb are fine stores for winter, while honeys from basswood, heartsease (smart-weed), asters, goldenrod, and most of the other fall flowers are less desirable. It is especially important during the period when the bees are in the cellar that the stores shall be of the very finest quality, and it is therefore the practice of many good beekeepers to feed each colony 5 pounds or more of sirup made of granulated sugar Into in the fall, after all brood-rearing has ceased. This insures that the bees will have for their use, during the period of confinement in the cellar, stores which will not bring about the condition known as dysentery. In general it may be stated that honeys from mixed sources and dark honeys, except buckwheat, are to be avoided. Honeydew honeys are highly injurious and in all cases where such stores are present granulated sugar sirup should be fed.

QUANTITY OF STORES.

From the end of one honey season to the beginning of the next a good colony of bees will need fully 45 pounds of honey. When the bees are wintered in the cellar, it is usual not to have all of this honey in the one hive body in which they are wintered. It is a good practice to have at least 20 pounds within this hive, although 15 pounds will be safe. It is absolutely imperative, however, that the remainder of the 45 pounds shall be available to be given to the bees soon after, they are taken from the cellar. The most common cause of poor colonies in the spring is poverty, directly due to neglect on the part of the beekeeper. A good beekeeper sees to it that at no time when brood is being reared do his bees have less than 15 pounds of stores in the hive, and the full amount of 45 pounds often will all be used, and is always needed if the colonies are to come to full strength on time for the gathering of the full crop. This amount is always augmented by honey from spring flowers, for 45 pounds of honey is not enough to bring a colony to full strength in time for the main honey-flow.

ARRANGEMENT OF THE APIARY.

Where bees are wintered in cellars the particular arrangement of the hives in the apiary is not so important a problem as where they are wintered on their summer stands, yet there are certain important considerations in the arrangement of the entire apiary which should be kept in mind.

WIND PROTECTION.

It is important that a place be chosen where the bees will be protected from cold winds in the spring after they are taken from the cellar and again in the fall before they are taken to the cellar. A grove of trees or an adjacent hill usually offers the best protection, or it is possible to make an artificial windbreak such as a high fence. A natural windbreak usually is better, for it is more extensive in most cases. Too much reliance should not be placed in buildings, for often they merely divert the wind slightly and may make conditions worse. A fence made of close boards usually is unsatisfactory, for it causes whirls.

DISTANCE OF THE APIARY FROM THE CELLAR.

To carry colonies of bees a long distance from the apiary to the cellar is not an easy task, even though the hives be light at that time of the year. It is best, therefore, that the apiary be located not more than 50 yards from the cellar, and even this distance is objectionable. If a special cellar is built for the bees, the apiary should be so located that the cellar may be built immediately adjacent. If the bees are to be wintered in the cellar under the beekeeper's residence, the apiary should be located as near as possible to the cellar door.

THE BEE CELLAR.

In order that the beekeeper may have reason to expect success in cellar wintering, it is imperative that he give careful consideration to the construction of the bee cellar. There has been a tendency among beekeepers greatly to overestimate the value of their own cellars, and especially to assume that the conditions which they are able to get in their cellars are exactly correct.

CELLAR UNDER THE RESIDENCE.

Some of the best bee cellars are those under the residences of beekeepers, and in general such a cellar is better than one built especially for cellar wintering. This is because the temperature of such a cellar usually is quite a little higher than that in a specially constructed repository. The best results in cellar wintering have been obtained in cellars under residences which are heated by furnaces, thus having a higher cellar temperature. In such a cellar provision must be made for partitioning off a space where the bees will be located so that there is no light or other disturbing factor during the time of their confinement. Since a cellar temperature about 50° F. is desirable, it is well to choose a part of the cellar through which some of the furnace pipes run, and if this results in too high a temperature these pipes may be insulated somewhat. It is best to choose a part of the cellar where there are no windows and where the outside walls are thoroughly protected to the top, either by a bank of soil or in some other fashion. This will result in a more equable temperature than is possible in a cellar exposed to sudden changes of temperature on the outside walls, for even a stone wall 18 inches thick will allow a considerable amount of heat to escape. In a cellar under a residence there will be abundant ventilation without any special provision being made for this. A test of the value of such a cellar is the even temperature which may be obtained, as will be discussed later.

SPECIAL WINTER REPOSITORY.

If properly constructed and protected, a special cellar or cave for the bees gives the best possible results in wintering, yet few such cellars have been built, for the reason that most beekeepers have omitted some vitally important factors. The usual fault is in having too great a variation in temperature and in giving excessive ventilation, which in turn causes fluctuations in temperature.

SOIL AND CONTOUR OF THE SURFACE OF THE GROUND.

To provide good drainage and adequate ventilation for the bee cellar without making any special ventilators, it is desirable to build it in a sandy hillside. If it is possible to choose a place for the cellar where the snow drifts deeply, this will afford a valuable addition to the insulation of the cellar. If the cellar is on level ground, drifting of snow may be increased by the proper building of open fences, such as are used to prevent drifting over railway tracks.

If it is impossible to utilize a sandy hillside, it will be necessary to build walls and a floor for the cellar and to make adequate provision for the drainage of the cellar. The hillside cellar has, the great advantage of having easy drainage.

CAPACITY OF THE CELLAR.

If the bees are kept in apiaries of perhaps 100 colonies and if a cellar is built for each apiary, then it is possible to build a cellar of just the right capacity. If a central cellar is built for all the apiaries and the bees in outapiaries are brought into the home apiary for winter, the beekeeper will wish to build the cellar sufficiently large for future expansion of his business, and beekeepers are finding out, that they can keep many more colonies of bees than they formerly thought possible. Perhaps the better plan is to have a cellar in each apiary.

The usual practice is to allow 1-1/2 to 2 square feet of floor surface for each colony, on the assumption that the colonies will be placed in piles of four (fig. 2). It is not desirable to pile hives higher than this, if the cellar roof is 6-1/2 feet high in the clear, and it is difficult to lift heavy hives any higher than the number specified. For an apiary of 100 colonies, it will be found desirable to have a cellar 10 feet wide and from 15 to 20 feet long, clear of the inner walls. If one is just getting a start in beekeeping he should build his cellar on the assumption that later he will increase the number of his colonies, and should allow for this, for it is better to have the cellar too large than too small.

WALLS AND FLOOR.

It has been claimed by many beekeepers that concrete walls and floor are not desirable, yet if the cellar is properly insulated there is no better material. If the cellar is built in a hillside of sandy soil, wooden sides will be satisfactory and no floor other than the soil need be provided. In such soil the drainage is good and the only function of the side walls is to hold the sides up to prevent caving in. In a moist soil a concrete floor and walls should be built, and the concrete should be waterproof. Under no circumstances should any of the side walls below the ceiling be exposed above ground.

ROOF.

The ceiling of the cellar should be below ground level sufficiently to bring it below the level of frost. For the regions where bees should be wintered in cellars this usually will be at least 2-1/2 feet below the level of the ground (fig. 3). The ceiling should be 6-1/2 feet above the floor, just sufficiently high to permit a tall man to work with comfort. If the ceiling is higher it will result usually in too low a temperature at the floor. The ceiling then should be covered completely on top with some insulating material, such as sawdust, and if sawdust is used it should be piled on about 1-1/2 feet thick. Unless about this amount of protection is given on the ceiling it will be impossible to get the right cellar temperature during the coldest part of the winter. If the cellar is built in a sandy soil, it is possible to use the soil as a cover for the ceiling, in which event about 3 feet of soil should be placed over the inner roof of the cellar. The entire insulating material, of whatever kind used, should then be protected from rain and snow by having a roof over it. This roof should project at least 2 feet, preferably more, beyond the outside of the cellar wall, and provision should be made for currying off the water from the roof.

In case the beekeeper desires to build an apiary house over the bee, cellar, as is done frequently, he must provide a floor for this house at least at ground level, and he can not successfully use the ceiling of the cellar as the floor of the upper house. There is no objection to building a house above the cellar if adequate protection is given the cellar, but it must not be assumed that the house offers any material insulation to the cellar, for in most cases these houses are not heated in the winter. The relation of the house floor to the ceiling of the cellar is shown in figure 3.

ENTRANCE TO THE CELLAR.

Frequently the entrance is a weak spot in the insulation of the cellar, and it is useless to protect the roof and sides unless care is used in the building of the entrance. If the entrance is at the end or one side of the cellar, it will be necessary to build a sort of vestibule with double doors so that the heat of the cellar will not be lost rapidly. The heavier and thicker these doors, the better for the bees.

The best type of vestibule is a long, narrow passage lending into the hillside, and it should be closed by doors at both the inside and outside ends. If possible the vestibule should be built and protected so that the temperature within the vestibule will never fall below freezing. In the building of the vestibule, also, the beekeeper should consider the ease with which the bees may be carried in and out of the cellar.

DRAINAGE.

As has been mentioned previously, the cellar must be well drained, either by natural or by artificial means. No stagnant water should be allowed to remain in the cellar, although at the higher temperatures of the best cellars this does less harm than it does in cellars that are too cold. Some beekeepers have advocated having a stream of water flowing through the cellar, and this will do no harm in warm cellars, and it may serve to assist somewhat in maintaining an even temperature.

VENTILATION.

One of the most serious faults of bee cellars is in providing for too much ventilation, resulting in great fluctuations in temperature. In a cellar which maintains a temperature of 50° F. or more there is little need for ventilation, for the Was then need little oxygen and only a small amount of carbon dioxide is given off. Other things being equal, the colder the cellar, the greater the need of ventilation. If poor stores are in the hives, the bees will need more ventilation than will be desirable when good stores are used. In a warm cellar in a sandy hillside no ventilating shaft need be built.