William Clayton's Journal A Daily Record of the Journey of the Original Company of "Mormon" Pioneers from Nauvoo, Illinois, to the Valley of the Great Salt Lake

Part 8

Chapter 83,566 wordsPublic domain

On the east and west of the village is a beautiful level bench of prairie extending many miles, and to the ridge of bluffs which run east and west touching within a mile of the village. On the top of the bluffs can be seen a number of Indian graves. To the northwest about a mile distant, and at the foot of the bluffs is an extensive corn field, the stalks still standing. On the south is a beautiful view of the nice level prairie extending to the main branch of the Platte, the timber on the banks can be faintly, but plainly seen. The Loup Fork is probably about 400 yards wide at this place and very shoal, except a narrow channel near the shore on this side which is probably three feet deep. The bottom is mostly quicksand and not safe fording. About half the surface from bank to bank is sand bars which appear above the surface of the water mostly on the south side. There are several small islands and a little timber to the right or west. The village occupies a space of about 40 acres of land, and is mostly enclosed by a ditch about five feet wide, and a bank inside the ditch about four feet high, running from the bank of the river around the village till it again strikes the bank, and when perfect, has formed a good fortification. A number of lodges are built outside the ditch on the east and on account of want of room inside when the bands from the other village joined them. The village is composed of about 200 houses or lodges varying in size but all similarly constructed, as appears from the remnants of some left standing. While I take this sketch, I sit in the one left unharmed, which it is said was owned by the chief Siscatup, and as the lodges are all constructed in the same manner, only differing in size, I will endeavor to describe the way in which this is built. In the first place, the earth is dug out a little, slanting to the depth of about 18 inches in the form of a perfect circle about 44 feet in diameter. This forms the floor of the dwelling. Then there are 17 crotch posts let into the floor in a direction slanting outward so that the top of the crotch is about perpendicular with the outside of the circle, the foot being set about 18 or 20 inches from the base of the circle. These posts are arranged at about equal distances from each other around the circle. In the crotches, poles are laid across from crotch to crotch, and are sufficiently high for the tallest man to stand upright under them. At the distance of 18 or 20 inches from the outside of the circle are many smaller poles let into the surface of the ground, on an average of about a foot apart and leaning inward so that the top of the poles rest on the cross pieces which are supported by the crotches. The space between the foot of these poles and the edge of the circle forms a bench for seats entirely around the house, and there is room sufficient for more than a hundred men to seat themselves on it very comfortably. On the outside of these last mentioned poles are laid a number of still smaller poles horizontally from bottom to top from about 9 inches to a foot apart, these are lashed fast to the upright poles by strings made of bark. On the outside of these is laid a thick layer of long prairie grass and occasionally lashed through to the upright poles also. The whole is then covered with earth about two feet in thickness at the bottom and gradually thinner towards the top. This forms an enclosure when completed around the whole area about seven feet high, a place being left sufficiently large for the door. The next process is to place erect ten upright poles or crotches, very stout, being about a foot in diameter about seven feet nearer the center of the circle than the first crotches. These are set perpendicular, deep in the ground and also arranged at about equal distances from each other, and form a strong foundation which is the design and use to which they are appropriated. On the top of these pillars are also horizontal poles laid strong and firm, the top of the pillars being about eleven or twelve feet above the floor. Long small poles are then laid from the outside horizontal poles over the inner ones and sufficiently long to meet at the top within about two feet of each other, forming a hole for the smoke from the fire to ascend through. These long poles are laid pretty close together all around the building, and across them smaller ones are lashed with bark as in the first instance, only they are much closer together. The operation of lashing on a layer of long grass and finally covering the whole with earth, completes the roof of the building. The door or entrance is a long porch formed by placing in the earth four upright posts or crotches far enough apart to extend outwards from the circle, about 18 or 20 feet. There are four upright crotches on each side the porch and in the crotches, poles are laid horizontally as in the other parts of the building. The process of lashing sticks across, then a thick coat of long grass and lastly a stout coat of earth, is the same as the other parts of the building. The roof of the porch is flat and is about seven feet high and six feet wide. The porch is dug down about half as deep as the main building, making a short step at the mouth of the porch and another one at the entrance into the house. The fire has been made in the center of the house directly under the hole in the roof.

At the farther side of the building, exactly opposite the porch, is a projection of sod left about a foot from the outside of the circle which is said to have been the seat of the chief, and over which hung his medicine bag and other implements.

The crotches are arranged so that there is a free passage to the center of the hall from the porch one standing on each side at the entrance about six feet apart and the others appear to be arranged from them. The smaller houses have not so many pillars as this one. Some have eight in the center and sixteen outside the circle. Others have four in the center and ten outside. The entrances are also smaller in proportion, but all are constructed on the same principle. It looks a little singular to note that nearly all the entrances to these lodges front to the southeast, except in one or two instances where they front in other directions for lack of room. It is probable that this is done to avoid the effects of the severe cold northwest winds so prevalent in winter.

Adjacent to each lodge is a stable or pen, which has been designed for keeping horses in. These are mostly left unharmed. They are constructed by placing poles upright in the ground from two to three inches in diameter as close together as possible and about ten feet high. About five or six feet above the ground cross poles are laid horizontally, and each of the upright poles are firmly lashed to the cross poles by strips of bark, so as to make them firm and secure them from being moved out of their place. The stables are mostly built square, with a door left on one side sufficiently large to admit a horse. There are some circular stables but not so many as the square ones. The horses appear to have been penned in by placing loose poles across the doorway, for there is no other sign of a door visible.

Around each lodge there are also several cachets where corn and other necessities are deposited. The cachets are large holes dug in the ground, or rather under the ground, the entrance being only just large enough to admit a common sized man. They are made pretty much after the shape of a large demijon. The cachets are generally about six feet high inside and about fifteen feet in diameter; there is a gradual slope from the mouth to the extreme corner and a little bowing, which forms the roof. The surface of the earth above, at the mouth, is about two and a half or three feet deep. Some of these are said to be capable of holding a hundred bushels of corn, and when filled there is a thick coat of grass laid on the top and the mouth then filled up nicely with earth, and when finished a stranger would not have the least suspicion that there was a storehouse full of corn under his feet.

I finished taking the foregoing sketch soon after noon, and then had intended to go on the bluffs and examine the Indian graves, but it being very warm, and perceiving the teams crossing the river very rapidly, I returned, and found most of the teams over. They commenced crossing about eight o'clock, some unloaded their goods on the bank which were carried in the boat to the sand bar, the teams going down to the ferry to cross. After a few wagons had gone over, it was perceived that they went over with less difficulty, and by doubling teams they soon took over the loaded wagons without much difficulty. I prepared to wade over the river, inasmuch as the wagon I am with was gone over, and in fact, all Heber's wagons were over except one, but Jackson Redding brought me Porter Rockwell's horse to ride over, and I mounted and proceeded. I found the current strong indeed, and about as much as a horse could do to ford it without a load. I soon got over safe and wet only my feet. At 3:00 p.m. the last wagon was over on the solid sand bar, and about four o'clock all the wagons and teams were safely landed on the bank on the south side of the Loop Fork without any loss or accident, which made the brethren feel thankful indeed. A little before four, the wagons started on to find a better place to camp and feed for our teams, where we can stay comfortable until Monday and give the teams a chance to rest, for they as well as the men are very tired by wading against the strong current on the quick sand. The bottom land on this side is more sandy than on the other side, but the grass appears higher but not so thick on the ground. The bluffs on the other side look beautiful from here, and the Indian graves show very plain. We went on about three miles and camped beside a small lake near the river. I traveled this on foot. Soon as we arrived Porter Rockwell discovered that there were many sun fish in the lake. I took a couple of hooks and lines, handed some to him, and went to fishing myself with the others and we had some fine sport. I caught a nice mess which Brother Egan cooked for supper, and although they were small they made a good dish. Many of the brethren caught a good mess each. Brother Higbee came down with the seine and made two hauls but caught none on account of the grass in the bottom of the lake. We have good reasons to suspect that we are watched by the Indians as their footsteps have been seen on the bluffs south, apparently very fresh, but the guard are faithful and we have no fear. The cannon was prepared again so as to be ready in case there should be an attack. Evening I walked over to Orson Pratt's wagon, and through his telescope saw Jupiter's four moons very distinctly never having seen them before. I went over to my wagon and looked through my glass and could see them with it, but not so distinct as with Orson's. The evening was very fine and pleasant. About ten o'clock retired to rest in good health and spirits, thankful for the mercies of the day that is past.

Sunday, April 25

Arose soon after five, shaved and changed some of my clothing. The morning very pleasant, wind west. Our course for the last seven miles has been about southwest. We are about 14 miles from the main branch of the Platte river and it is said that if we travel on this fork one hundred miles farther, we shall then be not over thirty miles from the main branch. This morning saw four antelope on the other bank of the river about a mile and a half northwest. Afternoon Elijah Newman was baptized by Tarlton Lewis in the lake for the benefit of his health. Brother Newman has been afflicted with the black scurvy in his legs and has not been able to walk without sticks, but after being baptized and hands laid on him he returned to his wagon without any kind of help seemingly much better. Soon after 5:00 p.m. a meeting was called at the wagon of President Young, and remarks made by several, and instructions by President Young chiefly in reference to the guard and the folly of conforming to gentile military customs on an expedition of this nature. After dark the twelve and some others met together opposite the President's wagon to select men to go a hunting buffalo, etc., as we proceed on the journey. It was ascertained that there are eight horses in the company which are not attached to teams. Then eight men were selected to ride on horseback, viz., Thomas Woolsey, Thomas Brown, John Brown, O. P. Rockwell, John S. Higbee, Joseph Mathews. Then there were selected eleven men to hunt also on foot, viz., John Pack, Phineas H. Young, Tarlton Lewis, Joseph Hancock, Edmund Ellsworth, Roswell Stevens, Edson Whipple, Barnabas L. Adams, Benjamin F. Stewart, Jackson Redding and Eric Glines. It was also voted that the twelve have the privilege of hunting when they have a mind to. After some remarks and cautions in regard to chasing the wild buffalo, the company was dismissed, and I retired to rest soon after nine o'clock, the evening being very fine and pleasant.

Monday, April 26

This morning about 3:30 an alarm was sounded. I immediately got out of the wagon and learned that three of the guard who were stationed to the northeast of the camp had discovered some Indians crawling up towards the wagons. They first received alarm from the motions of one of our horses, and noticing this they went towards the spot and listening, heard something rustle in the grass; they first suspected they were wolves and fired at them. Only one gun went off and six Indians sprang up and ran from within a few rods of where they stood, another gun was then fired at them and the camp alarmed. A strong guard was placed all around, and a charge of cannister put in the cannon. The day was just breaking when this took place and the moon had just gone down. The air being extremely cold and fires put out, I retired into the wagon till morning and arose again at half past five. After daylight, the footsteps of the Indians could be plainly seen where they had come down under the bank and sometimes stepped into the water. No doubt their object was to steal horses, and they had a fair privilege if the guard had been found asleep, for the camp was only formed in a half circle and some horses were tied outside. However, the prompt reception they met with will have a tendency to show them that we keep a good watch and may deter them from making another attempt. Orders were given for the tens to assemble for prayers this morning, instead of two in each wagon, which was done. President Young told me this morning that as soon as my health will permit, he wants me to assist Brother Bullock in keeping minutes, etc., as Brother Bullock is hard run, having to take care of a team and attend to other chores.

The camp started out about 8:00 a.m. I started at 7:30 on foot and traveled four miles, then waited for the wagons. There is no road here, consequently, President Young, Kimball, G. A. Smith, A. Lyman and others went ahead on horseback to point out the road. The horse teams traveled first to break the strong grass so that it will not hurt the oxen's feet. The hunters started out in different directions keeping only a few miles from the wagons. We traveled about seven miles and then stopped at 11:30 beside a few little holes of water to rest and feed teams, etc. From this place which is somewhat elevated, can be seen the remains of an old village or Indian fort, over the river about northwest from here. The country looks beautiful, somewhat rolling and bounded by uneven bluffs. The land looks poor and sandy. The sun is very hot and not much wind. I find it has a great tendency to make sore lips, parched up and feverish. At 1:45 all the wagons were on the way again. We traveled about seven miles. We crossed two slough or soft places though not very bad. They are the first since we left Winter Quarters. The roads are more uneven than on the other side the river. We had to make a new road all day. At 6:15 the encampment was formed on the east banks of a small creek with a very gravelly bottom. The wagons are formed in a deep hollow and so low that they cannot be seen at a quarter of a mile distance. There is no fresh grass here, neither has the old grass been burnt off. We have crossed a number of trails today which some say are buffalo trails. They all run towards the river, and in some places there are 8 or 9, others, not more than two, and so on, together running about a half a yard apart. The hunters have seen no buffalo. Woolsey killed a goose. There is no timber here, only a few small willows. We are about a half a mile from the river, and there doesn't seem to be much timber on the river. Our course today has been about southwest. About a mile back from this place situated on a high bench of land on the banks of the river is the remains of an Indian village, the houses or lodges being all down and no appearance of timber left. The entrances to these lodges all face to the southeast, the same as those back at the other village. There has evidently been a garden around the village as the land has been broken and bears marks of cultivation. This morning Brother Benson discovered that one of the iron axles of his wagon was broken, and he moved the load so that there was no weight on the part which was broken, and traveled with it all day. This evening the wagon was unloaded, the axle taken off, Brother Tanner's forge set up, and the axle welded and fixed ready to put to the wagon again. This was done in the short space of one hour after the encampment was formed. The welding was performed by Brother Burr Fost. About eight o'clock Joseph Mathews came into camp from seeking his horses and stated that an Indian had rode a horse off a little before and he supposed it was Brother Little's horse, which was missing. Dr. Richards' mare was also missing. Brother Mathews stated that he went out to seek for his black man who was out watching his teams, and as he arrived he saw Brother Little's horse as he supposed going towards the river. He ran towards it to turn it back to camp, but as soon as he commenced running the horse sprang to a gallop, which made him suppose there was an Indian on him although he could not see the Indian. As soon as he gave the alarm five or six of the brethren mounted their horses, and pursued on the course pointed out to the river, but could neither see nor hear a horse or Indian. When they returned, President Young and Kimball and a number of others went out on horseback and searched till near eleven o'clock, but likewise proved unsuccessful. The brethren have been repeatedly warned not to let their horses go far from their wagons, but every time we stop they can be seen around for more than two miles. These are two good horses and the owners feel bad enough, but it will be a warning to others to be more careful.

Tuesday, April 27