Part 28

Spent the forenoon with Elder Pratt in taking observations to ascertain the height of the temple block above the Utah outlet which he found to be sixty-five feet. The altitude one mile up the creek above the temple block is 214 feet and the altitude of the temple block above the level of the sea is 4,300 feet. The latitude 40° 45' 50". The blacksmiths are very busy shoeing oxen and there is prospect that the ox teams will start back on Monday or Tuesday. The soldiers are getting dissatisfied at being kept here so long from their families and yesterday several of them left the camp secretly to go to Winter Quarters and this morning others are gone, but it is probable that President Young knows nothing of it yet although about a dozen are already gone and others are preparing to follow them. On Tuesday President Young laid a foundation for four houses; Elder Kimball four, Colonel Markham one, Dr. Richards one, and Lorenzo Young two, and today Dr. Richards has laid the foundation of another, George A. Smith two and Wilford Woodruff two, making a total of seventeen houses mostly fourteen feet wide and from twelve to seventeen long. Elder Kimball has his house four logs high.

Friday, August 13

Spent the day mostly writing. The brethren have got 130 bushels of salt with twenty-four hours labor.

Saturday, August 14

Started at 8:40 in company with a number of others for the Salt Lake. We arrived at three o'clock and estimated the distance twenty-two miles. We all bathed in it and found the reports of those who had previously bathed in no ways exaggerated. We returned back to the river where we arrived at eleven o'clock at the beginning of a light thunder shower. There is no pure fresh water between the river and the lake.

Sunday, August 15

President Young preached on the death of little children, etc. Evening the company composing those who are returning with the ox teams met and voted that Shadrach Roundy and Tunis Rappleyee be captains. They received instructions to start tomorrow and travel leisurely to Grand Island and there wait for the last company of horse teams. J. C. Little and company returned yesterday from Utah Lake, and this morning the exploring company returned.

Monday, August 16

Spent most of the day fixing the roadometer, also finished marking the distances, camping places,, etc., on Dr. Richards' map from Devil's gate to Little Sandy. Evening took the wagon in company with Jackson Redding and Howard Egan to the warm spring to try the roadometer. We found the distance to be one and a half miles. Most of the company of ox teams have started today for Winter Quarters. They will go to the canyon and wait there till morning. After dark, Elder Kimball called a number of us together in the tent and each one present selected a lot for himself and family. I had previously selected lots 1, 7 and 8 on block 95, but President Young broke into our arrangements and wished 7 and 8 reserved, consequently I made choice of lots 1, 2 and 3 on block 95.

Tuesday, August 17

Started out at 8:10 and found the distance to the mouth of the canyon five miles, the difference arising from making a road across instead of following the first one. One and three quarters of a mile farther arrived at where the company had camped for the night and found them all ready to start, only waiting for President Young to arrive and give some instructions, but he sent word he should not come and we started forward. Elders Kimball and Richards soon overtook the company, gave some instructions, then returned and the company moved on. On arriving at Birch Spring, we encamped for the night, having traveled thirteen and a half miles. There is considerable danger of cattle miring near the spring and several have already had to be pulled out. This company consists of seventy-one men with thirty-three wagons. After camping, the brethren were called together by Captain Roundy for the purpose of organizing. He briefly stated the manner of the organization of the camp when we left Winter Quarters and it was unanimously voted to organize after the same pattern which was done as follows:

1st Division

1st Ten

Joseph Skeen, Captain Wm. Burt Artemas Johnson James Dunn James Cazier Joseph Shipley Geo. Cummings Samuel Badham Thos. Richardson Roswell Stevens

2nd Ten

Zebedee Coltrin, Captain Wm. Bird Chester Loveland Josiah Curtis Lorenzo Babcock John S. Eldridge Samuel H. Marble Horace Thornton Geo. Scholes

3rd Ten

Francis Boggs, Captain Geo. Wardle Sylvester H. Earl Seeley Owens Almon M. Williams Clark Stillman

Tunis Rappleyee, Captain of 1st Division. James Cazier Captain of Guard in 1st Division.

2nd Division

1st Ten

Jackson Redding, Captain Robert Biard Wm. Carpenter Benj. W. Rolfe Henry W. Sanderson Thos. Cloward Bailey Jacobs Lisbon Lamb John Pack Wm. Clayton

2nd Ten

John H. Tippets, Captain Lyman Stevens Francis T. Whitney Lyman Curtis James Stewart John S. Gleason Chas. A. Burke Myron Tanner Wm. McLellan Rufus Allen Norman Taylor

3rd Ten

Allen Cumpton, Captain Franklin Allen John Bybee David Garner J. Averett Harmon D. Persons John G. Smith Solomon Tindal Philip Garner Chas. Hopkins Barnabas Lake

4th Ten

Andrew J. Shoop, Captain Albert Clark Francillo Durfee James Hendrickson Erastus Bingham John Calvert Loren Kenney Daniel Miller Benj. Roberts Luther W. Glazier Jarvis Johnson Thos. Bingham

Shadrack Roundy, Captain of 2nd Division. John Gleason, Captain of Guard.

The soldiers were numbered with the 2nd Division, 3rd and 4th tens.

Those who have horses to ride were then numbered and their duty pointed out, which is to lead the way and fix the road where it needs it; look out camping places; drive the loose cattle and hunt for the camp. Their names are as follows: John Pack, Captain, Samuel Badham, Francillo Durfee, Benj. Roberts, Thomas Bingham, James Hendrickson, John Eldridge, R. I. Redding, Seeley Owens, Barnabas Lake, Wm. Bird, Daniel Miller, James Cazier.

Wednesday, August 18

We had a little rain this morning and the air very cool. We started at 8:00 a.m. and found the road rough indeed. When ascending the mountain from Brown's Creek, most of the teams had to double, it generally requiring six yoke of oxen to bring up an empty wagon. The descent is also very rough and especially where the road crosses the dry creek which is a great many times. Canyon Creek appeared rougher than when we first went up it and it took till near night to get to the end of the creek, having traveled only fifteen and three quarters miles during the day.

Thursday, August 19

We got started again about 8:00 a.m., all except Chas. A. Burke. One of his oxen was missing. Before noon several of the loose cattle gave out through being over driven. We arrived and camped on Red Mountain Creek at six o'clock, having traveled sixteen and a quarter miles. The day has been very hot but nights are very cold.

Friday, August 20

Morning very cold. Started out at seven and traveled till 12:30, the day being cool, then rested and baited an hour. At 1:30 proceeded again and arrived at Cache or Reddings Cave at 5:00 p.m., having traveled twenty and a half miles, but it was nearly seven o'clock before the company arrived.

Saturday, August 21

Started at 7:30 a.m. and traveled till 12:00 then baited an hour. We found Bear River not over fifteen inches deep. We camped on Sulphur Creek at five o'clock having traveled sixteen and a half miles and after camping I went with the brethren to fill their tar buckets at the oil spring. We followed a wagon trail made by a part of Hasting's company last year about a mile and found the spring situated in a ravine a little to the left of the road just at the edge of a high bench of land. The ground is black over with the oil for several rods but it is baked hard by exposure to the sun. It is difficult to get the clear oil, most of it being filled with dust and gravel. It smells much like British oil and is said to do well for greasing wagons. John Gleason has found a coal bed in the edge of the mountain across the creek. The coal looks good and burns freely.

Sunday, August 22

Many of the cattle were missing this morning but after much search were found about four miles southwest from camp. We started at nine o'clock and traveled till one, then halted an hour at the copperas spring. Most of the wagons halted at the spring four miles back. The water of this spring is not bad, cattle drink it freely. At two o'clock we began to ascend the ridge and at five formed our camp near the Muddy fork having traveled seventeen and three quarters miles, the day cool and cloudy.

Monday, August 23

We started early this morning and arrived at Fort Bridger at one o'clock. We found the grass pretty much eaten off and only stayed an hour and a half while some of the brethren traded some, then went on eight miles farther and camped on a stream two rods wide, having traveled twenty-one and a half miles, the day very cool.

Tuesday, August 24

This morning many of the cattle had strayed several miles from camp which prevented our starting till eight o'clock. We traveled eight and a half miles, then halted an hour on Black's Fork. We proceeded again and had a pretty heavy thunder shower and arrived at Ham's Fork at 5:20, then camped for the night, having traveled twenty-three miles. Most of the wagons did not arrive till nearly night, but we had no place to camp short of this and here we have good range for cattle.

Wednesday, August 25

We traveled today twenty-three miles and camped on Green River. We found several places where the road is shortened some, but it is yet about sixteen miles from water to water.

Thursday, August 26

Started at eight o'clock and went on to the Big Sandy and before the majority of the company arrived, E. T. Benson and escort came up with letters from the companies. They say there are nine companies between here and the Platte with 566 wagons and about 5,000 head of stock. They report the companies well and getting along tolerably fast, some they expect we shall meet within three days. After eating they proceeded on. After sundown a large party of mounted Indians came up, and camped on the opposite side the river. They have been on the Sweet Water hunting and are said to be of the Shoshone tribe.

Friday, August 27

Many of the brethren traded sugar, powder, lead, etc., to the Indians for robes and skins and meat. We started soon after seven and traveled to the crossing of the Big Sandy. Then after halting an hour, continued to the Little Sandy, making twenty-five and a quarter miles today, but it was nine o'clock before some of the wagons arrived. The feed is mostly eaten up on the creeks near the road and there is none except on the banks of streams. Bailey Jacobs killed a large antelope which is a matter of rejoicing as we are nearly out of bread stuff and had little meat for several days. We started back from the valley with 8 lbs. of flour, 9 lbs. of meal and a few beans each, and we have to depend on getting meat on the road for the rest. I was told there were 25 lbs. of flour put up for me, but I find it is not so.

Saturday, August 28

Started at eight o'clock and traveled till half past three before halting when we arrived at the crossing of the Pacific creek and halted to camp for the night having traveled twenty-three miles. There is no grass from Little Sandy to this place except a very little on Dry Sandy but the water there has some taste of alkali and teams do not like it. Here there is considerable grass along the creek and very good water but no wood except wild sage. We had a heavy thunder shower about four o'clock and considerable hail. It was dark before the ox teams arrived. Some of the men had killed a buffalo a few miles back, but it is very poor.

Sunday, August 29

It was decided to remain here today to rest the teams, but our ten obtained leave to go on to Sweet Water, expecting to meet the company, and after reading the letter of instructions from the council to this camp, my wagon proceeded on slowly. At the Springs, we saw an aged Indian squaw near the road dwelling in a shelter composed merely of wild sage and apparently dependent on passing emigrants for subsistence. She is doubtless left to perish on account of age and infirmity, but it is likely she will live some time on what she receives from those who pass by. When we arrived near the summit of the dividing ridge or south pass, two Indians rode towards us and motioned for us to stop. Not seeing the other wagons coming after, we stopped to wait for the wagons and the Indians soon arrived. They made signs that a large party of them were over the mountain north and they wanted to "swap." While they were conversing a number more rode over the ridge and soon after a still larger number. About this time the wagons came in sight and when the brethren saw so many Indians they were alarmed. John Pack rode back to the main camp to get some of the brethren to come up, but J. R. said he would not budge a foot. The brethren behind were much alarmed, some expecting to be scalped and one W. Carr ran and hid himself in the sage bushes. No one returned with John Pack but Norman Taylor and the wagons proceeded towards us. In the meantime, after learning the object for which the Indians sought us, that none of them were armed except two, and by a certificate that the first visitor was a Shoshone chief, Brother Lamb and myself signified that we would trade with them and soon some of them returned with antelope, buck and elk skins and robes to trade. I traded some balls and a little powder for one robe, one elk skin, two buckskins and nine antelope skins and a pair of moccasins. Lamb bought five antelope skins. While we were trading, the other wagons arrived and also commenced trading. The Indians, about sixty in number, about twenty of them boys, all mounted, seemed highly pleased to trade with us which we did mostly through the chief. By request of the chief, I gave him a certificate stating that he appeared friendly and wanted to trade with the whites, etc. The chief gave us a very strong invitation to go to their camp to trade and made signs that they would feed us well and we should sleep with them. I answered him by signs that we should camp when we arrived where the road crossed the Sweet Water but they were very anxious to have us then turn off the road and camp. After we started, the chief came up and wanted to swap a good mule for my spy glass but I refused. I had let him look through it and he seemed very wishful to try it. When they saw we were determined to go on, they left us and returned to their camp while we pursued our journey to the first crossing of Sweet Water where we arrived and camped at six o'clock, having traveled fourteen miles.

Monday, August 30

This morning the cattle belonging to the camp behind came to us early, having strayed away. John Pack and Bailey Jacobs went to drive them back and to trade some with the Indians. We calculated to go on about eleven miles but before we started, Father Eldridge came up with his wagon and said he expected Spencer's 1st 50 company up soon. We then concluded to stay here until they arrived and about three o'clock, their wagons began to cross the creek. I was glad to find Aaron and Loren Farr, and William Walker in this company with their families all well and in good spirits. From Sister Olivia, I received some articles sent by my family which were very acceptable indeed and made me feel grateful. This company all appear well and cheerful and are not much troubled on account of lack of teams. I spent the evening with Loren and their families. The balance of our camp arrived before dark.

Tuesday, August 31

Our camp except this ten has started on, but Brother Spencer has concluded to halt here today and I spent the day copying tables of distances for Loren and also gave him a plot of the city.

September 1847

Wednesday, September 1

We bid farewell to Brother Spencer's company and proceeded on. After traveling about a mile, we met P. P. Pratt going to see Brother Spencer and to get some cattle. He says some of the back companies have lost many head and can scarcely move. A few miles farther we met the 2nd 50 of Spencer's company. We traveled till nearly dark and camped with the returning pioneers at the cold spring, having traveled twenty-two and a quarter miles. The day fine and pleasant. We find the grass pretty much eaten off all the way. John G. Smith was appointed captain of the 2nd division in place of Shadrach Roundy who returns.

Thursday, September 2

Started about eight o'clock and after traveling two miles passed Russell's company of 50 and about five miles farther we passed Elder Rich's 50 and G. B. Wallace's 50. They all agree to the health and prosperity of their companies but have lost many cattle and have had hard work to get along. We passed Captains Foutz and Hone on this long drive with their companies all well, but complaining much for lack of teams. I conversed some with Edward Hunter and Elder Taylor. Brother Hunter will give cash for some cattle if he can buy them. We arrived on Sweet Water at six o'clock but the ox teams did not get in till eight o'clock, having traveled twenty-four and a half miles. The evening was very cold, windy and like for rain. Brother Roundy returned back to the valley this morning, having met his family.

Friday, September 3

We started on this morning following the new road at the north side of the Sweet Water, the road sandy in places but much better than the old road. After traveling about two miles, we saw a lone buffalo about two miles to the south. John Pack and Lisbon Lamb went to try to kill him and finally succeeded, on which our ten halted and sent back a wagon for the meat which detained us about three hours, after which we proceeded again. A little before the road fords the river the second time, there is an alkali lake a little north from the road. We joined the company and also met J. B. Noble's company where the road joins the old one again. Brother Noble's company are all well and not so bad off for teams as some of the other companies. We proceeded on a few miles farther and met J. M. Grant with Willard Snow's 50 which is the last company on the road. Brother Grant had a child die last night and his wife is yet very sick and not much expected to recover. This company have lost many cattle and are so bad off for teams as not to be able to travel more than ten miles a day which would make it some day in October before they get through. We went on nearly two miles farther, then camped for the night near Bitter Cottonwood creek, having traveled fifteen and three quarters miles. Most of the company camped back with Brother Snow's company.

Saturday, September 4

We started late this morning and traveled over a very sandy road till five o'clock, then camped on Ravine Creek, having traveled sixteen miles.

Sunday, September 5

There being alkali springs near, we concluded to go to Independence Rock at which place we arrived about three o'clock having traveled twelve and a half miles. Soon after we camped, Lamb and Jacob Cloward went to chase some buffalo and succeeded in killing one. I walked over the rock and had some solemn meditations and felt to humble myself and call upon the Lord for myself and family, for this company, the twelve and all the companies on the road. Experience has taught me many maxims of late and I intend to profit by them. Be not hasty to promise, lest thy promise be considered worthless. Make not many promises without reflection, lest thou fail to fulfill them and it dampen the confidence of thy friend. If thou promise many things and regard not to fulfill them and it damp the confidence of thy friend, then be assured that thy friends will despise thy promises and have no dependence in them. Seek not to speculate out of a good brother.

Monday, September 6

This morning the cattle were found down the Sweet Water about six miles from camp which made it late before we started. While passing the alkali lakes, a number of the brethren filled the bags with saleratus. We found the road very sandy to Greasewood Creek and after that it was somewhat better. About three o'clock the wind began to blow very strong and cold and we had heavy rain for about two hours.

We proceeded on and arrived at the Willow Spring a little before dark in the midst of a heavy shower of rain. Thomas Cloward left one of the old oxen sent back by Wallace on the road. It died before morning. All except our ten and William's stayed back at Greasewood Creek. We tried in vain to make a fire but finally went to bed wet and cold, having eaten nothing since morning. Some of the teamsters have only a light summer coat with them and they suffer considerably. We traveled twenty-one and a half miles today.

Tuesday, September 7

This morning our cattle were all missing and it still rains and snows very heavily. Pack and T. Cloward started early on foot to hunt the cattle but after following them over seven miles in the storm and seeing that they had kept on the road towards the Platte river, they returned to camp. It rained and snowed heavily till eleven o'clock at which time the balance of the camp arrived. John Pack asked the company to let us have some of their loose cattle to bring on our wagons till we overtook ours again, but the captains both generously refused for some cause or other. However, some of the brethren took their cattle out of their teams and let us have them and we moved onward. After traveling about thirteen miles we saw our cattle about four miles to the left of the road at the foot of a mountain. We halted and Lamb took one of the mules to fetch the cattle to the road. Soon after Pack and Jackson Redding came up and learning that we had found the cattle, they started to them to drive them to camp and Lamb being relieved, returned to the wagon. We harnessed up and arrived at the mineral spring about six o'clock, having traveled sixteen and a quarter miles. This spring has been represented as poisonous but if it is so, it must be in consequence of minerals under the water. The water has no bad taste till the cattle trample in it. It then becomes almost black as ink and this is probably what makes it poisonous.

Wednesday, September 8

We started at eight o'clock and arrived at the Upper Platte ferry soon after twelve o'clock. We found N. Jacobs and company there hunting. We forded the river and found it about two feet deep in the channel. We halted on the banks about two hours at which time the whole camp arrived. We then proceeded on. The main company went about five miles but we went till we found a good camping place in a grove of timber on the banks of the river where the road runs through, then halted for night, having traveled nineteen miles.

Thursday, September 9

This morning Norton Jacob's company joined us at eight o'clock and we moved forward. Found the road rough, it being cut up by the other companies in wet weather. We arrived on Deer Creek about sundown and camped for the night, having traveled twenty-two and a quarter miles. The day fine and very pleasant. Joseph Hancock killed an elk which the brethren packed to camp on horseback about sixteen miles.

Friday, September 10