Part 23

Morning very pleasant. We started on our journey at 7:50 and after traveling three and three-quarters miles, crossed Hams Fork, a rapid stream about three rods wide and two feet deep; and this would be a good place to camp, there being an abundance of high bunch grass on the banks. One and a half miles farther we crossed Blacks Fork which appears to be about eight rods wide and two and a half feet deep, but little grass near it. We then leave the river and wind over uneven road with many pitches caused by heavy rains washing the land, which is generally barren. After traveling eleven miles beyond the last stream, crossed a small creek about two feet wide but no grass. At four o'clock we crossed back over Blacks Fork and formed our encampment on its banks, having traveled eighteen and a quarter miles. At this place there is a fine specimen of the wild flax which grows all around. It is considered equal to any cultivated, bears a delicate blue flower. There is also an abundance of the rich bunch grass in the neighborhood of the river back and many wild currants. The prairies are lined with beautiful flowers of various colors--chiefly blue, red and yellow, which have a rich appearance and would serve to adorn and beautify an eastern flower garden.

Wednesday, July 7

This morning we proceeded at 7:35 and after traveling two and a half miles, forded Black's Fork once more. Here also is abundance of good grass, wild flax and handsome flowers. After traveling two and three-quarters miles farther, forded a stream about two rods wide and two feet deep, very swift current, also lined on its banks with bunch grass. At twelve o'clock we halted for noon on the banks of the last stream, having traveled nine miles over pretty rough road. The day very windy and filling the wagons with dust. Some of the wagons have gone on expecting to reach Bridger's Fort before they halt. At 1:40 we moved forward and found the road more even, though in many places rendered bad by the cobble stones. After traveling seven and a half miles we arrived opposite to nine Indian lodges erected on the south of the road. Here we halted a while and found Tim Goodale here, one of the trappers who passed us at the Platte ferry. There are not many Indians here but they appear to have a great many handsome ponies. We then continued on and after fording four creeks on an average about a rod wide, we arrived at Fort Bridger which is proved by the roadometer to be 397 miles from Fort John. We went half a mile beyond the fort and formed our encampment after crossing three more creeks, having traveled this afternoon eight and three-quarters miles and during the day seventeen and three-quarters. The grass is very plentiful in this neighborhood and much higher than we have generally seen it. The whole region seems filled with rapid streams all bending their way to the principal fork. They doubtless originate from the melting of the snow on the mountains and roar down their cobbly beds till they join Black's Fork. Bridger's Fort is composed of two double log houses about forty feet long each and joined by a pen for horses about ten feet high constructed by placing poles upright in the ground close together, which is all the appearance of a fort in sight. There are several Indian lodges close by and a full crop of young children playing around the door. These Indians are said to be of the Snake tribe, the Utahs inhabiting beyond the mountains. The latitude of Fort Bridget is 41° 19' 13" and its height above the level of the sea according to Elder Pratt's observations is 6,665 feet. It is doubtless a very cold region and little calculated for farming purposes. To the west is a pretty high mountain which appears well covered with timber. The country all around looks bleak and cold.

Thursday, July 8

Morning fine but high wind. It is concluded to stay a day here to set some wagon tires, etc. Many have gone to trade their rifles and some clothing for buckskins. H. Egan traded two rifles and got twenty pretty good skins for them. The day continued warm with high wind. Evening there was a council and some complaints listened to from George Mills against Andrew Gibbons. It was decided for Thomas Williams and S. Brannan to return from here and meet Captain Brown's company from Pueblo. Inasmuch as the brethren have not received their discharge nor their paw from the United States, Brother Brannan goes to tender his services as pilot to conduct a company of fifteen or twenty to San Francisco if they feel disposed to go there and try to get their pay. Williams came clothed with authority to arrest Tim Goodale or one of his men for stealing a horse at Pueblo, but he can get no encouragement from President Young to make the attempt.

Friday, July 9

We started at eight o'clock, the brethren who go back bidding good bye to the camp and proceeding on their back journey while we moved westward over pretty rough roads. After traveling six and a quarter miles, we arrived at the springs and halted a while to rest our teams. We then proceeded on three-quarters of a mile and began to ascend a long steep hill, near the top of which and eight miles from Fort Bridger, Elder Pratt took an observation and found the latitude 41° 16' 11". Arriving on the top we found the table tolerably level for several miles then began to descend to the bottom again. The descent from this hill is the steepest and most difficult we have ever met with, being long and almost perpendicular. At three o'clock we crossed the Muddy Fork, a stream about twelve feet wide, and formed our encampment on the west bank, having traveled since the halt six and three-quarters miles and during the day thirteen. Here is plenty of tall bunch grass and a pretty good chance for our teams. The day has been windy, warm and dusty.

Saturday, July 10

Started this morning at eight o'clock, weather warm with tolerably high wind. After traveling three and a half miles we passed a small copperas spring at the foot of a mountain a little to the left of the road. The water is very clear but tastes very strong of copperas and alum and has a somewhat singular effect on the mouth. It runs a little distance over the red sand which abounds in this region and where it is saturated with water almost looks like blood at a little distance. After passing this spring the road winds around the foot of mountains gradually ascending for some distance till finally arriving on the summit of a high ridge. Here Elder Pratt took a barometrical observation and found the height to be 7,315 feet above the level of the sea. On arriving at the west side of the ridge two and a half miles from the last mentioned spring we found a very steep, rough place to descend and found it necessary to halt and fix the road. About half way down there is a place over huge rocks, leaving barely enough room for a wagon to get down, but by labor it was soon made passable. A little farther, the brethren had to dig a place considerably to make a pass between the mountains. President Young and Kimball labored hard with a number of others and in about a half an hour made a good road. At twenty miles from Fort Bridger, passed another spring and a little farther after arriving on the bottom land, the road turns nearly south through a beautiful low bottom filled with grass. At 1:45 we halted for noon, having traveled nine miles. Latitude 41° 14' 21". After halting an hour and a half we proceeded again and after traveling three and a half miles began to ascend the dividing ridge between the Colorado waters and the great basin. This mountain is very high and the ascent steep, rendering it necessary to make a crooked road to gain the summit. The height is 7,700 feet according to Elder Pratt's observations. The surface at the top is narrow. Here three bears were seen to run over a still higher mountain on the left. The descent was very steep, having to lock the wagons for half a mile. We then descend and travel on the bottom a few miles between high rugged mountains till the road seems suddenly to be shut up by a high mountain ahead. The road here turns suddenly to the left and goes east about 200 yards then winds again southwest. After ascending and descending another high ridge, we crossed a small creek about ten feet wide and at 7:45 formed our encampment on the southwest banks, having traveled this afternoon nine miles and during the day eighteen over the most mountainous course we have yet seen. After camping, Mr. Miles Goodyear came into camp. He is the man who is making a farm in the Bear River valley. He says it is yet seventy-five miles to his place, although we are now within two miles of Bear River. His report of the valley is more favorable than some we have heard but we have an idea he is anxious to have us make a road to his place through selfish motives. Elder Pratt has found a beautiful spring of clear, sweet, cold water about a hundred yards southwest from the camp. Water excellent.

Sunday, July 11

Morning fine with ice a quarter of an inch thick on the water pails. Walked on the mountain east with President Young and Kimball, from whence we had a pleasing view of the surrounding valley which is about ten miles wide. Abundance of timber on the mountains south and southwest and beyond that plenty of snow. After having prayers, we again descended and at the foot discovered a very strong sulphur spring. The surface of the water is covered with flour of sulphur and where it oozes from the rocks is perfectly black. The water in the creek shows sulphur very clearly and smells bad. During the day some of the brethren discovered an oil spring about a mile south. The substance which rises out of the ground resembles tar and is very oily. Some have oiled their gun stocks with it and oiled their shoes, others have gone to fill their tar buckets and are sanguine it will answer well to grease wagons. It is somewhat singular to find such a great contrast of substances within so short a distance. Here is pure water, sulphur, and oily tar within a mile of each other, and matter of curiosity all around for the contemplation of the curious. Porter, Brother Little and others have been out with Goodyear to view the route he wishes us to take. They represent it as being bad enough, but we are satisfied it leads too far out of our course to be tempted to try it. There are some in camp who are getting discouraged about the looks of the country but thinking minds are not much disappointed, and we have no doubt of finding a place where the Saints can live which is all we ought to ask or expect. It is evident the country grows better as we proceed west, and vegetation is more plentiful and looks richer. After dark, a meeting was called to decide which of the two roads we shall take from here. It was voted to take the right hand or northern road, but the private feelings of all the twelve were that the other would be better. But such matters are left to the choice of the camp so that none may have room to murmur at the twelve hereafter.

Monday, July 12

Morning cloudy and cool. We pursued our journey at 7:15. At one and a quarter miles rose a very steep, low hill, narrow but very steep on both sides. One half a mile farther crossed the Bear River, a very rapid stream about six rods wide and two feet deep, bottom full of large cobble stones, water clear, banks lined with willows and a little timber, good grass, many strawberry vines and the soil looks pretty good. About a half a mile beyond the ford, proceeded over another ridge and again descended into and traveled up a beautiful narrow bottom covered with grass and fertile but no timber. Four and three-quarters of a mile beyond Bear River, passed a small spring of good clear cold water. At 11:50 halted for noon in the same narrow bottom near a ridge of high, rough rocks to the right, having traveled nine and three-quarters miles. There is scarcely any wagon track to be seen, only a few wagons of Hasting's company having come this route; the balance went the other road and many of them perished in the snow; it being late in the season and much time was lost quarreling who would improve the roads, etc. There is a creek of clear water close by, deep but scarcely any current. President Young was taken very sick awhile before we halted. After resting two hours the camp moved on again, except President Young and Kimball's wagons, who concluded to remain there today on account of the President's sickness. After traveling one and a half miles we crossed the creek at the foot of a high mountain and a little farther crossed back again. A mile farther, began to ascend a long steep hill, narrow on the summit and steep descent. We then wound around between high hills till arriving again on a narrow rich bottom. At the foot of the hill we crossed last, there is a spring of very good cold water, and in fact, there are many good springs all along the road. At six o'clock we formed our encampment near a very small creek and a good spring, having traveled this afternoon six and three-quarters miles and during the day sixteen and a half. There is an abundance of grass here and the country appears to grow still richer as we proceed west, but very mountainous. There are many antelope on these mountains and the country is lovely enough but destitute of timber. About a quarter of a mile west from the camp is a cave in the rock about thirty feet long, fifteen feet wide and from four to six feet high. There are many martins at the entrance and on observing closely, can be seen myriads of small bugs. It is supposed from appearances that there is some property cached in the cave. Soon after we camped, we had a light shower accompanied by thunder. This country evidently lacks rain, even the grass appears parched.

Tuesday, July 13

Awhile before noon, Elder Kimball and Howard Egan arrived from the company back. A meeting was called but suddenly dispersed by a thunder shower. After the rain ceased, Elder Kimball proposed that a company start from the camp with Elder Pratt to proceed to the Weber River canyon and ascertain if we can pass through safely, if not, to try and find a pass over the mountains. He reported that President Young is a little better this morning, but last evening was insensible and raving. Colonel Rockwood is also very sick and quite deranged. A company of twenty-two wagons, mostly ox teams, started on soon after dinner, in company with Elder Pratt, and soon after, Elders Kimball and Egan returned to the back company. The day has been very hot and sultry, and mosquitoes are very troublesome.

Wednesday, July 14

The day has been very hot, with occasionally a light breeze. Several of the brethren have been out hunting, and brought in several antelope which appear to abound in this region. Brothers Woodruff and Barnabas Adams went back to the other wagons this morning. They returned at night and reported that President Young is considerably better, but Brother Rockwood remains very sick. There are one or two new cases of sickness in our camp, mostly with fever which is very severe on the first attack, generally rendering its victims delirious for some hours, and then leaving them in a languid, weakly condition. It appears that a good dose of pills or medicine is good to break the fever. The patient then needs some kind of stimulant to brace his nerves and guard him against another attack. I am satisfied that diluted spirits is good in this disease after breaking up the fever. At night had a light shower. The following is a list of the names of those who are gone on to look out and make a road, etc., viz.: Orson Pratt, commander of company, O. P. Rockwell, Jackson Redding, Stephen Markham, Nathaniel Fairbanks, Joseph Egbert, John S. Freeman, Marcus B. Thorpe, Robert Crow, Benjamin B. Crow, John Crow, Walter H. Crow, Walter Crow, George W. Therlkill, James Chesney, Jewis B. Myers, John Brown, Shadrack Roundy, Hans C. Hanson, Levi Jackman, Lyman Curtis, David Powell, Oscar Crosby, Hark Lay, Joseph Mathews, Gilbert Summe, Green Flake, John S. Gleason, Charles Burke, Norman Taylor, A. P. Chesley, Seth Taft, Horace Thornton, Stephen Kelsey, James Stewart, Robert Thomas, C. D. Barnham, John S. Eldridge, Elijah Newman, Francis Boggs, Levi N. Kendall, David Grant. First division: seven wagons, fifteen men; second division: sixteen wagons, twenty-seven men besides Crow's family of women and children. Total, twenty-three wagons and forty-two men.

Thursday, July 15

Morning pleasant but cloudy. At twelve o'clock President Young, Kimball and all the rear wagons arrived, eight in number. The President is much better. Brother Rockwood is considerably better. Orders were given for this company to harness up, and during the time till we started onward at half-past one we had a very refreshing shower. After traveling two miles we passed another spring of good water at the foot of a high hill a little to the right of the road. At half-past three we formed our encampment at the foot of some high red bluffs, having traveled four and a half miles, and enjoyed two more pleasant showers. Feed here good and a beautiful spring of good, clear, cold water a little to the left of the road. The evening fine and pleasant.

Friday, July 16

This morning we have had two pleasant showers accompanied by pretty loud thunder. At 8:45, we proceeded onward, passing through a narrow ravine between very high mountains. After traveling one and a quarter miles passed a deep ravine, where most of the teams had to double to get up. One-half mile farther, crossed the creek and found the crossing place very bad. Harvey Pierce broke his wagon reach and bolster. The wagon had to be unloaded, but with little delay was soon repaired, during which time a number of the brethren fixed a new place to cross the creek. After passing this place, following the course of the creek, the mountains seem to increase in height, and come so near together in some places as to leave merely room enough for a crooked road. At half past twelve we halted to feed, having traveled six and three-quarters miles and are yet surrounded by high mountains. As we halted, O. P. Rockwell came up from Elder Pratt's company. He reports that it is about twenty-five or thirty miles to the canyon. They have found the road leading over the mountains to avoid the canyon and expect to be on top today at noon. The day is pleasant with a nice breeze. Grass plentiful and pretty high, but no timber yet, except small cedar on the sides of the mountains. Numerous springs of clear water all along the base of the mountains. During the halt two of the brethren went to the top of the mountain on the north of the camp. They looked like babes in size. At 1:40, we proceeded onward and found the pass between the mountains growing narrower, until it seemed strange that a road could ever have been made through. We crossed creek a number of times, and in several places found the crossing difficult. After proceeding a few miles, we saw patches of oak shrubbery though small in size. In the same place and for several miles there are many patches or groves of the wild currant, hop vines, alder and black birch. Willows are abundant and high. The currants are yet green and taste most like a gooseberry, thick rind and rather bitter. The hops are in blossom and seem likely to yield a good crop. The elder-berries, which are not very plentiful, are in bloom. In some places we had to pass close to the foot of high, perpendicular red mountains of rock supposed to be from six hundred to a thousand feet high. At a quarter to seven we formed our encampment, having traveled this afternoon nine and a half miles, and during the day sixteen and a quarter. We are yet enclosed by high mountains on each side, and this is the first good camping place we have seen since noon, not for lack of grass or water, but on account of the narrow gap between the mountains. Grass is pretty plentiful most of the distance and seems to grow higher the farther we go west. At this place the grass is about six feet high, and on the creek eight or ten feet high. There is one kind of grass which bears a head almost like wheat and grows pretty high, some of it six feet. There is a very singular echo in this ravine, the rattling of wagons resembles carpenters hammering at boards inside the highest rocks. The report of a rifle resembles a sharp crack of thunder and echoes from rock to rock for some time. The lowing of cattle and braying of mules seem to be answered beyond the mountains. Music, especially brass instruments, have a very pleasing effect and resemble a person standing inside the rock imitating every note. The echo, the high rocks on the north, high mountains on the south with the narrow ravine for a road, form a scenery at once romantic and more interesting than I have ever witnessed. Soon after we camped, I walked up the highest mountain on the south. The ascent is so steep that there is scarce a place to be found to place the foot flat and firm, and the visitor is every moment, if he makes the least slip or stumbles, in danger of being precipitated down to the bottom and once overbalanced, there is no possibility of stopping himself till he gets to the bottom, in which case he would doubtless be dashed to pieces. After resting about half a dozen times I arrived at the top and found the ascent equally steep all the way up. In many places I had to go on my hands and feet to keep from falling backwards. From this mountain I could see the fork of Weber River about a mile west of the camp; looking back I could see the road we had come for several miles, but in every other direction nothing but ranges of mountains still as much higher than the one I was on as it is above the creek. The scenery is truly wild and melancholy. After surveying the face of the country a little while, I began to descend and found the task much more difficult than ascending, but by using great care and taking time, I got down without accident a little before dark. Solomon Chamberlain broke his forward axle tree about two miles back. A wagon was unloaded and sent back to fetch him up. He is yet very sick.

Saturday, July 17