William Clayton's Journal A Daily Record of the Journey of the Original Company of "Mormon" Pioneers from Nauvoo, Illinois, to the Valley of the Great Salt Lake

Part 19

Chapter 193,736 wordsPublic domain

Arose at four o'clock to try and get some more fish. Morning fine and warm, but caught only four. I procured a sample of the stone coal from G. A. Smith. It looks good. This place reminds me of England. The calm, still morning with the warbling of many birds, the rich grass, good streams, and plenty of timber, make it pleasant. At 7:35 we again continued our journey along the banks of the river which appears somewhat wider here than at Laramie. At two and a half miles we passed a deep hollow, the banks on both sides being very steep. At four and a quarter miles put up a guide board at 100 miles from Laramie, having traveled it in a week lacking two and a quarter hours. At 11:50 we halted for noon in a grove of timber where there is plenty of good feed for a large company. The land since morning has been generally level, but sandy and no grass. The road somewhat crooked. About a mile back we came around a bend to the south caused by a deep ravine. We had to travel more than a mile to make a quarter of a mile direct. William Empey, Edmund Elsworth, and Francis M. Pomeroy, each killed an antelope. Several of the brethren have taken an interest in the guide boards and wherever they see a piece of board sufficiently large, they pick it up and preserve it. By this means we have now got enough to last 200 miles. The distance we have traveled since morning is nine and a quarter miles, being 105 miles in the week including Sunday, or 100 miles in six days. About half an hour after we halted, Brother Joseph Hancock came in with the hind quarters of an antelope which he killed about three miles back. He could not carry the remainder and left it on the ground. At two o'clock we started again. After traveling one mile, we crossed a very crooked, muddy creek, about twelve feet wide and over a foot deep. The descent and ascent were both bad on account of a crook from one to the other. There is plenty of feed on its banks, but no wood. Five and three-quarters miles farther another muddy creek about three feet wide and bad to cross on account of the clay being very soft in its banks. The balance of the road good, but considerably crooked. At half past five o'clock we came to a halt on account of seeing a number of wagons about a half mile ahead which proved to be two of the Missouri companies camped on the banks of the river and preparing to cross here. It was also ascertained that there is no camping place beyond them unless we go some distance. It was decided to turn off to the river opposite where we are and camp for the night and the wagons proceeded accordingly. We went a half a mile from the road and at six o'clock formed our encampment near the river where there is plenty of timber, having come on the road this afternoon seven and three-quarters miles and during the day seventeen miles, exclusive of the distance we turned off to camp. The feed here is good and plentiful. The region on the banks of the river is pretty level, but a few miles to the south there are very high bluffs. Very little chance for feed except in places on the banks of the river and generally where there is timber. These Missourian companies inform us that the regular crossing place is twelve miles farther and that our brethren are gone on there and also the balance of the Missourian companies. These men have got a light flat boat with them and have already got one load over. They say they have killed three bears between here and the bluffs. They have also killed a buffalo. There have been signs of bears seen by our brethren a number of times, but no bears for a certainty. We have only seen one buffalo since we left Laramie until today, when several have been seen. One of the Missourians brought a snow ball from the hill on the south. He gave Rockwood a piece of it, and he brought it to camp. Elder Kimball and several others saw it which now convinces us snow is yet lying on these high bluffs. Henson Walker, Charles Barnum and Brother Owens have each killed an antelope this afternoon, making eight during the day.

Saturday, June 12

Morning very fine with nice east breeze. Brother Markham has learned this morning that Obadiah Jennings was the principal in killing Bowman in Missouri. Bowman was one of the guard who let Joseph and Hyrum and the others get away when prisoners in Missouri. The mob suspected him and rode him on a bar of iron till they killed him. At a quarter past eight o'clock we continued our journey. At one and a half miles crossed a deep gulch pretty difficult to descend but not bad to ascend. One and three-quarters miles farther, we crossed a small creek about two feet wide on a bridge which the brethren fixed, they having started ahead of the wagons for that purpose. One mile beyond the last mentioned creek we crossed another muddy stream about five feet wide, and one and a half feet deep. At a quarter to 12:00, we halted after crossing another large ravine, having traveled seven and three-quarters miles over a sandy, barren prairie. In some places it is soft, although the soil is much like clay in appearance. The road somewhat crooked, and the day fine and warm. During the halt, Brother Rockwood called upon the brethren to help fix another ravine immediately west of us. Many turned out and it was soon done. James Case and S. Markham went to the river opposite here to see if it could be forded. They waded their horses over and found the water about four feet six inches deep in the channel and the current very swift. Of course it could not be forded with loads in the wagons, but the loading would have to be ferried in the boat. They made a report of this kind on their return to camp and about the same time Brother Chesley came down from the brethren ahead and reported their progress and the nature of the crossing place, etc. A number of the brethren in company with Elder Kimball and Chesley went to the river opposite the camp to decide whether to cross here or go on. Brother Markham and Case again went over, but it was finally concluded to go up to the other ferry. We accordingly started at half past two. I went ahead on foot. At three and a quarter miles, crossed a creek about five feet wide. At half past four the encampment was formed on the banks of the river, having come four miles, and during the day eleven and a quarter. It is about a half a mile from our camp to the place where they ferry. I arrived at the brethren's camp at four o'clock and learned that they arrived here yesterday about noon. Two of the Missourian companies arrived about the same time. The brethren concluded that a raft would be of no use on account of the swiftness of the current. The Missourian company offered to pay them well if they would carry their company over in the boat and a contract was made to do so for $1.50 per load, the brethren to receive their pay in flour at $2.50 per hundred. They commenced soon after and this evening finished their work, and received the pay mostly in flour, a little meal and some bacon. They have made $34.00 with the cutter all in provisions which is a great blessing to the camp inasmuch as a number of the brethren have had no bread stuff for some days. During the afternoon yesterday, one of the men of the Missourian company undertook to swim across the river with his clothes on. When he reached the current he became frightened and began to moan. Some of our men went to him with the cutter and arrived in time to save his life. The Missourian company seem to feel well toward us and express their joy at having got across the river so soon. Rodney Badger exchanged wagons with one of them and got a wagon as good as his own, only the tire wants setting. He got a horse, 100 lbs. flour, 25 lbs. of bacon and some crackers to boot. The provisions and horse are considered to be worth as much as his wagon. Since the brethren arrived here they have killed three buffalo, a grizzly bear and three cubs, and two antelope. The buffalo are very fat and the meat is good and sweet. According to the idea of some French travelers camped here, the buffalo are making down east behind the hills opposite here, which they say is a certain sign that the Indians are on Sweet Water hunting them. The brethren say that the buffalo are very plentiful back of these hills. When I returned to camp I learned that Tunis Rappleyee and Artemas Johnson were missing, the former having started for the hills to get a little snow; the latter having been hunting all day. A company were sent out with the bugle to find them. Brother Rappleyee returned about eleven o'clock. Johnson was found by the brethren who returned still later. All agreeing with the report that the hills are eight or ten miles distance, although they do not appear more than one mile. There were four antelope killed by the brethren but divided according to the feelings of those who killed them.

Sunday, June 13

The morning fine and pleasant. At nine o'clock the brethren assembled in the circle for prayer and after they had spent some time, Elder Kimball arose and addressed them exhorting them to be watchful and humble, to remember their covenants and above all things avoid everything that will lead to division, etc. He made use of the similitude of the potter and the clay to show that every man had the privilege of being exalted to honor and glory if he did not mar in the hands of the potter, but would continue passive, etc. His remarks were very touching and appropriate to our circumstances. President Young followed next on the "Liberty of the Gospel" showing that it guarantees all fullness of liberty to every man which fact will tend to his salvation and increase, but does not give us liberty to break the laws of God, to wander off to the mountains and get lost, nor to kill the works of God's hands to waste it, etc. He was followed by Elder Pratt on the subject of our avoiding all excesses of folly of every description, inasmuch as it disqualifies from the society of just men and angels. He exhorted the brethren to be watchful and to seek after wisdom and knowledge. The meeting was dismissed at half past twelve and a company were then dispatched to get poles to lash the wagons together to prevent their rolling over when crossing. Another company were sent over the river to build a raft to cross over provisions, etc. The brethren are gone to work and are diligently preparing to cross the river tomorrow. The day has been very hot, more like a summer day than any we have yet had on the journey. The ground seems to be alive with the large crickets, and it is said that the bears feed on them and pick them up very fast. A person who has never seen them could form no idea of the vast numbers of crickets in this region. I spent the day writing in Elder Kimball's journal. Phineas Young came in from the mountain, having killed a deer.

Monday, June 14

Morning cloudy and cool. At four o'clock the first division commenced ferrying their goods over the river in the cutter and some time afterwards commenced taking the wagons across on a raft which proved to be very slow work. The second division also began to take their goods over on a raft but the current was so strong they only took two loads over in it and then quit. The second division then got a rope stretched across the river from shore to shore and lashing two wagons fast together to keep them from rolling over, they dragged them over by the rope, letting them drift with the current to save breaking the rope. When the wagons struck on the sand on the other side the upper one keeled over, and finally rolled over the other one, breaking the bows considerably and losing iron, etc., in the wagon to the amount of $30.00 belonging to John Pack. The other wagon had the reach broken and some of the bows. They next lashed four wagons together abreast and dragged them over the same way. All got over well except the upper one which turned on its side, but it was righted again without damage. They next tried one wagon alone, but as soon as it got into the current it rolled over and over, breaking the bows pretty badly. The plan of taking one wagon at a time on a raft is the safest, no accident having occurred with it and the wagons got over dry but it is very slow and would take us three or four days to get all the wagons across. The wind blows strong from the southwest which is much to our disadvantage. At 3:30 we had a very heavy thunder storm. The rain was heavy indeed, accompanied by hail and as strong a wind as I ever witnessed. After the storm was over the ferrying was continued, getting my trunk, etc., and the loads in Brother Johnson and Harmon's wagons over, and also Harmon's wagon, Johnson's being got over just before the storm. It took till nearly ten o'clock to get the loading into the wagons and get regulated. The river has been rising all day and has risen very fast since the storm. The men have tried hard, much of the time being in the water and sometimes up to their armpits which is very fatiguing indeed. When they quit at night the first division had got eleven wagons over, the second division twelve, making twenty-three wagons after a very hard day's labor. There was no difficulty in getting the freight over for one man can carry it in the cutter faster than all the rest of the camp can get the wagons over.

Tuesday, June 15

The morning fine but very windy. The brethren continued ferrying wagons over on the raft and also built two other rafts. The wind being so high they could not get along very fast. In the afternoon they commenced driving over some of the horses and cattle belonging to Brother Crow's company. They neglected to take the lariats off the horses and the buffalo horse was soon seen to be drowning. Some of the men immediately went to it with the skiff and dragged him to the shore but could not succeed in bringing him to life. His natural make seemed to hurt him from swimming. The rest all got over safely. The cattle got over safely also; the current was very strong, the wind high and the river rising which made it look dangerous to swim the cattle across. It was concluded today to leave several brethren here to make a boat and keep a ferry till the next company comes up. By that means they will probably make enough to supply a large company with provisions. We have learned from a Missourian that there is a large company of emigrants coming up on the north side of the Platt above Grand Island. There are doubtless some of our brethren and if so they will probably reach us before we get through. The day continued windy and somewhat inclined to storm, but they succeeded in getting nearly twenty wagons over before night.

Wednesday, June 16

The morning fine but strong west wind. The brethren continue ferrying. A company have gone back about three miles to make two canoes on which they intend to build a boat to be used here till the next company comes up. Another company also went about half a mile up the river to make slabs or puncheons to lay on the canoes. A while before dark the brethren returned from below with two good canoes twenty-five feet long each and nearly finished and ready to put together. The ferrying continued all day but with great difficulty on account of the strong wind blowing down stream. When they started over with Brother Goddard's wagon the wind was blowing strong. James Craig and Wordsworth were on the raft with poles and when they got nearly half way across Brother Craig's pole stuck in the sand and threw him overboard. He swam back to shore and in spite of Brother Wordsworth's exertions, the wind and current carried the raft about two miles down the river. It was finally landed by the help of the cutter and without accident. They have had three rafts working today, two of which they now work by oars which are proving to be far superior to poles in this strong current. At the close of day there were still a number of wagons on the south shore. Those which had been brought over could not be easily counted on account of their being scattered all along the banks of the river for about a mile in length. It was now contemplated to leave a company of brethren at this ferry to ferry over the gentile companies for a dollar and a half a load till the next company of our brethren arrive. This is the object for which the new boat is being built. They will thus earn a good stock of provisions for themselves and be prepared to set the brethren of the next company over without delay and will also be able to preserve the boat for our use, for it is the instructions of the President that when they have ferried our brethren over to cache the boat and come on with them.

Thursday, June 17

The morning fine but windy and cold. The brethren renewed the ferrying early and soon after noon they had got the last wagon safely over which was a matter of rejoicing to all the camp. Two companies of the Missourians had arrived and made application to be set over at a dollar and a half a load. When the contract was made with the first company to be sent across as soon as our wagons were over, the other company of ten wagons offered to pay the brethren 50c per man extra if they would set them over first, making $5.00 over the stated price for ferriage being ten of the brethren to work at it. Colonel Rockwood had made a contract to the above effect with the first company and did not like to break it. However, he received a hint that this was Colonel Markham's day for the use of the boat and consequently Colonel Markham had a right to take the last offer if he chose. He took the hint and they went to work forthwith at a dollar and a half a wagon in provisions at Missouri prices and 50c extra per man in what they preferred for themselves. The afternoon and evening was very cold indeed with a very strong wind. After President Young and Kimball got their wagons over, being about the last, orders were given for the camp to come together and form the wagons in a circle near the ferry. It took till near dark before all the wagons got up. The ferrying was continued all night and till daylight at which time many of the Missourians' wagons in the two companies were over.

Friday, June 18

Morning very cold and windy. The brethren continued working at the new boat, others continued ferrying the Missourians' wagons over. It was concluded not to start today but wait and assist in finishing the boat and also to take the provisions on which will be realized from these two companies. After dinner, I went with brother Pack to fish in the last creek we crossed about a mile and a half distance. We found the fish numerous and had good luck. I caught sixty-five very nice ones which would average half a pound weight each. About six o'clock I started back but found I had got more than I could easily carry to camp. However, when I got about half way, Brother Cloward met me and helped to carry them. We arrived at the camp about sundown pretty well tired. The afternoon was very warm and pleasant. When we arrived the Twelve and some others were going to council. I went with them. The names of those who are appointed to tarry were read over as follows: Thomas Grover, John S. Higbee, Luke Johnson, Appleton Harmon, Edmund Ellsworth, Francis M. Pomeroy, William Empey, James Davenport, and Benjamin F. Stewart. Thomas Grover was appointed captain. The President then referred to Brother Glines who was wishful to stay but the president said he had no council for him to tarry, but he might do as he had a mind to. Some explanations followed by Glines, but the unanimous feeling of the brethren was to have him go on. The President preached a short sermon for the benefit of the young elders. He represented them as being continually grasping at things ahead of them which belong to others. He said the way for young elders to enlarge their dominion and power is to go to the world and preach and then they can get a train and bring it up to the house of the Lord with them, etc. The letter of instructions was then read and approved by the brethren and the council was then dismissed.

Saturday, June 19