Part 18

The road after this is considerably crooked and uneven. About a mile and a quarter farther we descended again on the same gravelly channel and traveled up it a piece and at 11:35 halted for noon opposite a very large spring noticed by Fremont. The water of this spring is very clear and soft, but considerably warmer than the river water. We have traveled this morning six and a half miles. Just as we halted, two men came down from the other road on mules to water. They are in company with eleven wagons and bound for west of the mountains. They say the other road from Laramie is only ten miles to the spring while our road has been 14¾ miles. About a half an hour after we stopped, we had a nice shower. The 1st division halted about a quarter of a mile back from here. Latitude at the warm springs 42° 15' 6". While we were halting, the company above referred to passed down the bluffs and went ahead of us. They have got many cows, etc., with them. At 1:40 p.m. we resumed our journey. After traveling a mile we turned in a narrow pass to the northwest between two high bluffs and traveled a quarter of a mile farther, then came to where the road rises a very high, steep bluff. At the foot is a short sudden pitch and then a rugged ascent for a quarter of a mile. The bluff is rocky and many large cobble stones lay in the road which made it hard on teams. Appleton Harmon took one of his yoke of cattle and assisted George Billings to the top and Brother Johnson took Appleton's steers and put them forward of his and brought up his wagon. Appleton and Johnson then took the three yoke of oxen and fetched up Appleton's wagon which threw us nearly in the rear of all the wagons, none of the rest doubling teams. After arriving on the top the road was good but still rising for a quarter of a mile farther. We traveled on this high land five and a quarter miles which was very good traveling although it was considerably rolling. Four and a half miles from the top of the last mentioned bluff, we passed a large lone rock, standing far away from any other. At five and a quarter miles we descended again from the bluff, the descent being steep and lengthy but sandy and good to travel. At the foot of the bluff we again crossed the gravelly channel and traveled on and alongside about a mile, then descended a little to the bottom prairie again. At 6:30 we formed our encampment on the west bank of a small stream and near a very good spring of cold water, having traveled this afternoon 10½ miles and during the day seventeen.

I have put up two guide boards today. One at 10 and the other at 20 miles from Fort John or Laramie, but the former name is on the guide boards. The bluffs we have passed today are mostly very high, rocky and broken, with pine growing on most or nearly all of them. We have pretty good feed here and plenty of wood and good water. The gentile camp is a little east of us. They say that there were two more companies arrived at Fort Laramie this morning as they left, and three other companies within twenty miles of Laramie. They left this morning. They left Independence on the 22nd of April. They are expecting the mail soon on mules, but they anticipate keeping ahead of all the companies. We find the road very crooked, but not bad traveling. About dark it rained some, accompanied by lightning and thunder. The camp was notified that tomorrow will be a day for fasting and prayer as last Sunday.

Sunday, June 6

Morning cloudy, cool, and like for rain. At eight o'clock the eleven wagons passed us again. At nine the brethren assembled for prayer meeting a little from the camp, but many kept about their wagons, some washing and some at other things. At eleven o'clock, four Missourians came up mounted, being part of a company a little behind. Some of these are recognized by the brethren and they seem a little afraid and not fond of our company. They say the old settlers have all fled from Shariton, Missouri, except two tavern keepers, and I feel to wish that their fears may follow them even to Oregon. At half past eleven just as the brethren again assembled for meeting it commenced raining hard, accompanied by lightning and heavy thunder which caused the meeting to break up abruptly. During the storm, the Missouri company passed by us, having nineteen wagons and two carriages. Most of their wagons have five yoke of cattle to each, and few less than four. They have many cows, horses and young cattle with them. They have a guide with them who lives on the St. Mary's River at the Columbia. He says we shall find water again about six miles from here and then no more for fifteen miles farther. It was then considered wise to move on this afternoon as we cannot well reach the second watering place in one day. Soon after twelve o'clock the weather cleared off, the sun shone and looks like for being fine. The wind blows strong from the west. At half past 2:00 p.m. the camp began to move forward. About three quarters of a mile we crossed the same small stream again, and two miles further arrived at a sudden bend in the road to the south about two hundred yards and then as sudden to the north the same distance occasioned by the water having washed a deep gulf where the road ought to run. A mile beyond this the wagons came to a halt in a body of timber and brushwood at four o'clock, and halted while the brethren on horseback, viz. Elder Young, Kimball and Woodruff, went ahead to look for a camping ground. They returned at 4:40 and the camp proceeded on. Having proceeded a quarter of a mile we passed the camp of the nineteen wagons close by the timber a little south of the road. Several of the men came to look at the roadometer, having heard from some of the brethren that we had one. They expressed a wish to each other to see inside and looked upon it as a curiosity. I paid no attention to them inasmuch as they did not address themselves to me. At a quarter past 5:00 p.m. we formed our encampment in an oblong circle, at the foot of a low bluff on the west and close by water, having traveled five miles. The feed here is very good and plentiful. Wind strong from the west. Road very crooked, mostly a southwest and west course. There is plenty of timber all along and the soil looks good on the low lands. One of the men in the company of the nineteen wagons told G. A. Smith that he had broken his carriage spring and seemed much troubled to know what to do to get along. He asked George if there was any man in our company who could fix it. George told him there was. After we were camped, Burr Frost set up his forge and welded the spring ready to put on before dark.

Monday, June 7

Morning fine. Elder Pratt gave me some instructions on the use of the sextant and showed me how to take an observation. He has promised to teach me to take observations and calculate latitude and longitude and I intend to improve the opportunity. At 6:30 the Missouri company passed through again. And at ten minutes past seven we commenced our onward course. Dr. Richards left a letter in a guide board 30¼ miles to Fort John. I walked about five miles mostly in company with Elder Pratt conversing on astronomy and philosophical subjects. Elder Kimball then let me have his horse to ride. We traveled till eleven o'clock and then halted to feed on the west bank of a small stream and spring of clear water, having traveled 7¾ miles, mostly a north of northwest course. The road more even and good traveling. Soon after we halted, another company of Missourians passed us, having thirteen wagons and mostly four yoke of oxen to each. They say they are from Andrew County, Missouri. At 12:35 we moved forward. At a quarter of a mile began to ascend a bluff which was a quarter of a mile from the bottom to the top, the ascent gradual and tolerably steep. From the top of this hill we had as pleasant a view of the surrounding country as I have ever witnessed. Laramie peak appears only a few miles to the southwest, and from that around to the west, north, and northeast, a very extensive view of a beautiful country for many miles, indeed, as far as the eye could survey. From a fair view of the peak I am satisfied that the Black Hills, of which this is a prominent part, are so named from the vast forests of pine trees covering their surface and being of a dark green color within a few miles of them. The pine grows in the most rocky places and abounds on the highest hills, while on the lower bluffs it is sparsely scattered and in the bottom land, which looks rich and good, there are none. We have passed many noble trees and there is no lack of good pine timber in this region. The peak is very high, and very broken and craggy, the snow still lying on its summit and plainly visible with the naked eye. The ridge over which we passed was a half a mile over from the southeast to the northwest foot. At that distance we began to descend and had to lock the wagons in several places. The descent was rendered unpleasant by the many large cobble stones scattered in the road. Many of the brethren threw them out of the road as we went along and the road is much improved. They have also dug down some places and leveled others, which will make the road much better for other companies. At half past three we arrived at Horse Creek and formed our encampment on the bottom land near the timber or rather in the midst of a grove of ash, cottonwood, etc., having traveled five and a quarter miles this afternoon over crooked road and during the day, thirteen miles. On this camp ground is one of the clearest and largest springs of water I have seen for a long time. Elder Kimball having discovered it, he calls it his spring or Heber's spring. The creek is also clear and said to have trout in it. The feed is much better and more plentiful than we have ever met with on this journey. There is abundance of wild mint and sage growing here; the mint seems to perfume the air. The sage grows in abundance on all this sandy land. There are also many wild currant bushes in full bloom and prickley pears all along the road. The other companies were all within two miles when we arrived here, but mostly going on a few miles farther. A little before we stopped, we had a thunder storm which lasted upwards of an hour. During the latter part of it, it rained very heavily accompanied by hail and thunder and lightning. Our hunters have killed a long-tailed deer and an antelope, which were distributed as usual. Brother Crow's hunter also killed a deer, but they are unwilling to conform to the rules of the camp in dividing and reserve it all to themselves. Brother Crow observed that if they got more than they could use they would be willing to let the camp have some. Some of the other companies killed an antelope, took off the quarters and left the balance on the ground. Brother Pack picked it up and brought it along. After we stopped Brother Crow came near meeting with an accident while endeavoring to yoke up a pair of wild steers. It took a number of men to hold them, having lariats on their saddle-horns. They got the lariats entangled round their legs and Brother Crow also, throwing one of the steers down and he fast with it. They cut the rope and he was liberated without injury. Myers, the hunter, roasts the young antlers of the deer and eats them. In regard to Brother Crow's meat, etc., I afterwards learned that the whole family had to depend on Myers for what they eat, having no bread stuff, nor anything only what he kills, and the little flour and meal paid to him for a part of the ferryage, he having a small claim on Bordeau. After supper, walked out with Elder Kimball and was joined by George A. Smith. Brother Smith told me of a good opportunity of sending a letter to my family by some traders who are expected down every day and I feel to improve the opportunity. We had a very strong wind at night, so much that I could not write.

Tuesday, June 8

Morning fine though cool. At half past seven we proceeded on our journey crossing the Horseshoe creek, which is about a rod wide. We traveled two and a quarter miles, winding around the foot of high bluffs and then began to ascend them. We found this ascent the worst we have ever had, being three quarters of a mile up, and having in that distance seven very steep rises. On most of them the teams had to double. We saw a buffalo about a half a mile to the south which is the first we have seen since about the 21st of May. Two and a half miles from the east foot of the last bluff we passed over a small creek, nearly dry, and then ascended another high bluff but not nearly so bad a rise as the other one. At 11:45 we halted for noon near a very small creek with but little water in it, having traveled six and three quarters miles over hills and valleys, the roads being very crooked. About half an hour before we halted, Harriet Crow got run over with one of their wagons. The teams had stopped near the descent from the bluffs and she stepped on the wagon tongue to get a drink. The cattle started suddenly, threw her under the wheel which passed over her leg below the knee and downwards, passing over her foot above the toes. She screamed and appeared in great agony. We thought her leg was broken, but were soon satisfied to the contrary. Her foot was badly bruised but I think there was nothing broken. One of the women washed it with camphor. She was then put into a wagon and we proceeded on. Latitude 42° 29' 58".

At 1:40 we proceeded. After traveling a little over a mile and a half we passed another small creek, and again ascended a high bluff. We found this ridge more uneven than the other, it being a perfect succession of hills and hollows for five miles. The road was good and hard. While traveling on the top the wind blew very strong from the west and it was so cold that we suffered some. The road over was indeed very crooked but mostly bending to the north. We could see a long distance from the top. The country to the north looks more even but south and southwest very hilly and broken. At five miles we began to descend gradually, and while watching the roadometer I discovered it did not work right which made me pay more attention to it. At ten minutes past six we crossed a stream about thirty feet wide and nearly two feet deep with a very swift current. It is named on Fremont's map as La Bonte river. We formed our encampment on the west bank in the timber having traveled this afternoon 8¾ miles and during the day 15½. The evening is very cold and much appearance of rain. Porter Rockwell has killed a deer and someone else an antelope. Porter says he has been on the Platte which is about four miles from here following the La Bonte. Soon after we stopped, the men came into camp who were expected to carry a letter. They are camped about a mile west of us. I finished my letter to my family by candle light, as it is contemplated to start in the morning before breakfast and go a few miles to better feed.

Wednesday, June 9

Arose at 4:20 and at 5:15 a.m. we moved onward, keeping near the La Bonte. At 5:45 halted for breakfast beside the traders' camp, having come a mile and a quarter. I sent my letter to them by Aaron Farr, a number of the brethren also sending letters. While we halted I got the roadometer fixed again and also put up a guide board marked "To Fort John 60 miles." These traders or mountaineers said they had left a kind of ferry made of three buffalo skins hung in a tree on the Platte and wanted Brother Crow's company to have it. It was decided to send a company ahead to overreach the Missouri companies and get the ferry before they could arrive, and also build a raft for us to cross on, kill game, etc. The men say it is about seventy miles to where we cross the river. Nineteen wagons were sent ahead and about forty men to attend to this business. All of Brother Crow's company went, Aaron Farr, J. Redding, the cutter, etc., being five wagons from the 1st division and fourteen from the 2nd. They started about half an hour before we started. We proceeded at 7:45 and immediately after starting had to cross a very steep gulf, being difficult for teams to get up, though it was not long. Soon after this, four men passed us with pack horses and mules. They say they are from Pueblo and going to Green River; they told others they were from Santa Fe and going to San Francisco. We found the road very hilly and uneven and crooked as yesterday. At three and three quarters miles passed over a branch of the La Bonte, a stream about ten feet wide but not deep. The descent and ascent being very steep, most of the teams required assistance to get up. For half a mile before we crossed this stream and three and a half miles after, our road lay over a kind of red earth or sand about the color of red precipitate. Most of the rocks and bluffs are of the same red color, only a deeper red. It affected my eyes much from its brightness and strange appearance. About one and a quarter miles west of the creek President Young and Kimball saw a large toad which had horns on its head and a tail. It did not jump like a toad but crawled like a mouse. This was seen near a large pile of rock or rather a hill. At 12:40 we halted for noon having come ten miles since breakfast. There is little water here for the teams. The day fine and nice west breeze. The road is very crooked, hilly, and mostly rocky, many large cobble stones covering the bluffs, the land barren and little grass. The ground here is covered with large crickets which are so numerous, to walk without stepping on them is almost impossible.

At half past two o'clock we were on the move again. I put up another guide board a little east of the creek: "70 miles." We found the road much better this afternoon, not being so uneven, and tolerably straight excepting a bluff to climb a mile from the creek. At the foot of this bluff I saw a toad with a tail like a lizard, about three inches long. It had no horns but there was the appearance of horns just coming on each side of the head. It resembles a lizard in color, tail, and motion when running swiftly through the grass. Its hide appeared hard and on its sides appeared numerous little sharp pointed fins or pricks. In other respects it resembled any common toad. At a quarter past one we formed our encampment on the east banks of a stream about a rod wide, two feet deep and swift current. It is named the A La Pierre. We have traveled eight miles this afternoon and during the day 19¼. We have a good place for feed but the higher land is barren, abounding only in wild sage. There are still some high bluffs around but the country west appears much more level. The evening fine but cool. After traveling six and a quarter miles from noon halt, passed a small creek, and again three quarters of a mile farther passed the same creek. Sterling Driggs killed an antelope and a deer.

Thursday, June 10

The morning calm and very pleasant. There is wild mint growing on the bank of this stream in great plenty and abundance of wild sage on all the higher land. The mint smells natural, but the sage smells strong of turpentine and a little like camphor. Started at half past seven and found good roads. At four and a half miles passed over a small creek about three feet wide but not much water, being only a few inches deep. A mile farther passed another creek about five feet wide, clear water and plentiful. At 11:20 we halted on the east bank of a stream about thirty feet wide and tolerably deep with a rapid current, having come eight and three quarters miles. We have had several long, steep bluffs to ascend and descend and two places at the creeks where it was hard for the teams to get up without help. We saw one of the Missouri companies a few miles ahead of us. Edmund Elsworth killed an antelope. There is good feed here and plentiful. Our road has been crooked mostly winding northward. The creek on which we camped last night is named A La Pierre and about a mile from where the road crosses, it runs through a tunnel from ten to twenty rods under the high rocky bluffs. The tunnel is high enough for a man to stand upright in it, and when standing at the entrance one can see the light through on the other side. It seems as though this tunnel has been formed by some strange feat of nature. Several of the brethren went to see it. Lewis Barney and another brother each killed an antelope which were brought into camp during the halt and divided. The brethren carried the two last about five miles on their shoulders. We have learned today from one of the travelers that there is one man living and making a farm in the Bear River valley. At a quarter to 2:00 we continued our journey. Found the road somewhat more even and good traveling. I put a guide board this morning at 80 miles from Fort John, and this afternoon after traveling three and a quarter miles from noon halt I put up another mark at 90 miles. Just as I finished setting it, I looked forward and saw the Platte river again. After descending a half a mile we were on its banks, being 77 miles since we left it on Saturday last, after having wound around among the hills and bluffs all the way. When we arrived near the river the road was more level but sandy and harder on our teams. There are also some low places where the water stands, making it soft, but scarcely any feed for teams since we left the creek at noon. At a quarter to six we passed another stream about thirty feet wide and two feet deep, swift current and clear water. Name is Deer Creek. There is plenty of timber on its banks and abundance of good, rich grass for our teams. We formed our encampment on the west bank in a grove of large timber. About a mile back we passed a sick horse supposed to be left by some of the companies ahead. Brother Markham bled it in its mouth, but could not get it along and had to leave it. The distance we have traveled this afternoon was nine miles and during the day 17¾ miles, the last five miles being nearly a west course. Soon after we camped, Horace Whitney went to fishing in this stream. We were soon satisfied that there are plenty of fish in it. I got a line and went to fishing also and in a few minutes caught two which would weigh a half a pound each. We then went a piece below the ford and by fishing till a little after dark I caught twenty-four nice fish which would average over a half a pound each, and some of them would weigh over a pound each. The ones I caught were of a very bright color and very much resembled the herring, but much larger. Horace caught a cat fish and two suckers. A number of brethren also caught more and some less. There is abundance of fish in this stream and we might have caught enough for all the camp with the sein but it is ahead with those who are gone to build a raft. The Twelve and some others walked out together to the river about a quarter of a mile up the stream. Some of the brethren discovered a rich bed of stone coal where any quantity might easily be dug, and it is said to look good and is a fine quality. The land here on the bottom is rich and would doubtless yield good crops of grain and potatoes, etc. Lewis Barney killed an antelope this afternoon which was distributed as he saw fit, inasmuch as he was not appointed a hunter. The evening is very fine, calm and pleasant indeed.

Friday, June 11