Part 15
The morning fine and very pleasant. Most of the Indians, men, women and children came early to camp on their ponies and marched around mostly trying to obtain something to eat. Several little barters were made with them for moccasins, skins, etc. John S. Higbee traded ponies with one of them. They have some good ponies and some inferior ones, but both male and females are neatly dressed and very tidy. They look cheerful and pleased to witness the camp, etc. At 8:20 we proceeded onward. After we started, the Indians left us and went over the river. One mile from where we started, we began to ascend a low range of bluffs to avoid a large, high sandy ridge which projects to the river. We traveled three quarters of a mile and descended again to the level prairie. At 9:40 we halted to let the cattle and teams graze, the feed being good and plentiful, having traveled two and a half miles, mostly northwest around a bend of the river. The sun is very hot, the roads sandy and hard teaming. The river is probably three quarters of a mile wide here and on this side there are many small islands. At 11:15 continued our journey and traveled till half past one, distance four and three quarters miles over a very soft, wet, level prairie. We then halted to feed and rest our teams, as they have been hard drawn nearly all day. We have seen no game for several days except a few antelope and hares. The buffalo appear to have left this region and in fact there are little signs of many having been here. The feed is poor, mostly last year's growth and very short. One of the hunters killed an antelope, which was brought to camp and divided to the captains of tens. At 3:00 p.m. we started again and traveled till a quarter to six, distance four and three quarters miles, and during the day twelve miles. For three miles of the first of this afternoon we had a good road, but the last part has been very wet and soft, numerous ponds of water standing all around caused by heavy rains. We have camped on a very wet spot, but the feed being poor where it was drier, it was decided to stay for the benefit of the teams. Our course has been about northwest, very little wind and the day very warm. Chimney Rock shows very plain and appears not more than two miles distance but is no doubt five miles distance or over. Another antelope has been killed and brought in by the hunters. Elder Orson Pratt is taking an observation to ascertain the height of Chimney Rock. The evening was very pleasant and the brethren passed away their time till after nine o'clock dancing. Porter Rockwell shot the two antelope spoken of above. He also shot two wolves. Latitude six and a quarter miles back, 41° 41' 46".
Wednesday, May 26
The morning very fine and pleasant. I have spent the morning working on Dr. Richards' map. At eight o'clock continued on our journey. Elder Pratt taking observations to tell the distance our road lies from Chimney Rock. Yesterday morning Stephen Markham traded a mule which was foundered and unable to work to one of the Indians for a pony. They put him in the harness a little towards evening and again this morning. When crossing a very soft place the whipple tree unhitched and struck against his heels. He ran full gallop towards the head teams and twice through the line of wagons causing several teams, horses and oxen both, to spring from the road and run some distance before the men could stop them. After running nearly a mile some of the brethren caught the pony, brought him back and put him to the wagon again without any accident, except a little injury to the harness. After traveling four and five-eighths miles, we arrived at a point directly north of Chimney Rock which we ascertained by the compass, having traveled since it was first discovered 41½ miles. We proceeded till twelve o'clock and halted to feed, having traveled seven and a quarter miles, a northwest course, the road very straight and hard excepting a few spots where the water stands caused by late heavy rains. We turned south a little to get to grass as the higher prairie is barren, and scarcely any grass on it. Porter Rockwell has killed two antelope and John Brown one which were brought into camp and are being divided amongst the companies as usual. Elder Pratt found that Chimney Rock is 260 feet high from its base to its summit and the distance from our road at the nearest point three miles. The latitude at noon halt 41° 45' 58". At 2:25 resumed our journey making our road nearer the river than this morning. The road somewhat crooked but good traveling. After traveling five miles, turned directly south to avoid a bad slough and went a quarter of a mile and then formed our encampment at five o'clock on the banks of the river. The last quarter of a mile was not reckoned in the day's travel which exclusive of that is 12¼ miles, course north of northwest. The feed here is good and sufficient to fill our teams well. Joseph Hancock killed an antelope which was brought into camp and distributed. Soon after we camped, walked out to the bank of the river with Presidents Young and Kimball to read to them some of the minutes of the old council. We were joined by Dr. Richards and tarried till seven o'clock, at which time a heavy black cloud was fast approaching from the west and was soon followed by a strong wind and a little rain which lasted only a short time. The evening afterwards warm and pleasant though somewhat cloudy. Carloss Murray has been trying to rear the young eagle caught on Saturday. After stopping tonight, he put it under a wagon and a while afterwards the men ran the wagon back, one of the wheels ran over its head and killed it. I wrote in Heber's journal till half past ten and then went to rest.
Thursday, May 27
The morning very fine. We have seen a number of romantic spots on our journey, but I consider our view this morning more sublime than any other. Chimney Rock lies southeast, opposite detached bluffs of various shapes and sizes. To the southwest, Scott's Bluffs look majestic and sublime. The prairie over which our route lies is very level and green as far as we can see. The bluffs on the north low, and about three miles distant. The scenery is truly delightful beyond imagination. I have finished making Dr. Richards' map to Chimney Rock. Elder Pratt has measured the width of the river at this place by the sextant and found it to be exactly 792 yards. At ten minutes to eight we continued our journey and traveled near the banks of the river till 11:45, being eight miles. The route very good, hard and good traveling, although a little crooked. Porter Rockwell has killed two antelope and Amasa Lyman one, which were brought to the wagons and distributed. There are some heavy thunder clouds in the south and west and a nice breeze from northeast. At two o'clock we continued our journey over the same kind of dry level prairie, keeping not far distant from the banks of the river and making a straight road. At the distance of four and an eighth miles passed the meridian of the northernmost peak of Scott's Bluffs being 19¾ miles from the meridian of Chimney Rock. These bluffs are very high, steep, and broken like many others, resembling ancient ruins. They are probably two miles from north to south extremity, but not very wide. We traveled till 4:45 and formed our encampment in a circle near the banks of the river which from this place seems to bend for some distance to the north, having traveled this afternoon five and three quarters miles and during the day thirteen and three quarters, mostly northwest. Elders Kimball and Woodruff pointed out the road this forenoon. Afternoon Elder Kimball rode with me in Johnson's wagon while I read some of his journal to him. The evening is very cold, wind northeast, and raining some. Feed is good and the camp generally well. Another antelope was brought in by the hunters. The latitude of the northernmost peak of Scott's Bluffs 41° 50' 52".
Friday, May 28
The morning cool, damp, cloudy and some rain. Wind northeast. At about eight o'clock the brethren were called together and the question asked: shall we go on in the rain or wait until it is fair? All agreed to stay until it was fair. I went to writing in Heber's journal and wrote till nearly eleven o'clock. Elder Kimball came to the next wagon where some of the boys were playing cards. He told them his views and disapprobation of their spending time gaming and dancing and mock trying, etc., and especially the profane language frequently uttered by some. He reasoned with them on the subject and showed them that it would lead from bad to worse if persisted in until the consequences would become serious. He exhorted them to be more sober and wise. It growing fair, we started out at eleven o'clock, our first four miles being north of northwest in consequence of a bend in the river. We traveled beside a creek of very clear water about a mile. It rises about four miles northwest of where we camped last night and runs in a crooked direction till it empties into the river about a mile west of the camp. It rises from springs as was proved by Horace Whitney who traced it to its source where there is a spring rising out of a circular kind of wet swamp about six feet in diameter. The creek is about eight feet wide but not deep, the bottom is gravelly. Near where it empties into the river, they discovered a number of large spotted trout, suckers and dais of a good size. The water tasted very good and cold. At the distance of four miles we arrived and traveled at the foot of the bluffs, the road sandy and heavy on teams. We soon turned from the bluffs on a level barren prairie, hard and good traveling. At nine miles descended on a lower bench of prairie where we found it wet and soft though not bad rolling. At 4:45 formed our encampment near the river, having traveled eleven and a half miles, the last seven a little south of west. The feed here is not very good. Driftwood tolerably plentiful. We have seen a few small trees on the islands today but none on the north bank. Vast quantities of southern wood and prickley pear grow on these sandy prairies where there is no grass. The evening cloudy and dull with cold northeast wind. While Thomas Brown and Porter Rockwell were out hunting about five miles north of here, the former saw five or six Indians about a quarter of a mile from him. They also saw many new footprints of horses, which shows that there is a hunting party near.
Saturday, May 29
The morning cold, wet and cloudy with wind from northeast. We shall not travel unless it grows fair and better weather. I spent the morning writing in Elder Kimball's journal, but felt very unwell having taken cold yesterday and been sick all night. About ten o'clock, the weather looked a little better and at half past ten the bugle sounded as a signal for the teams to be got together. After the teams were harnessed, the brethren were called together to the boat in the circle. President Young taking his station in the boat, ordered each captain of ten to lead out his respective company and get all his men together. He then called on the clerk to call over the names of the camp to see if all were present. Joseph Hancock and Andrew Gibbons were reported to be absent hunting. Brothers Elijah Newman and Nathaniel Fairbanks were confined to their wagons but answered to their names, the remainder all present. President Young then addressed the meeting in substance as follows: