Part 12

The morning cold. Wind east; camp well. At 7:00 a.m. went with a number of the brethren who were going to dig some wolves out of a hole about a quarter of a mile from camp. They dug out four and brought them alive to camp. They are probably six or eight weeks old and about the size of an English hare, very vicious. At half past nine the camp moved onward over a very nice level, dry prairie for five miles. Amongst the timber on the island could be seen many small cedar trees. At the end of five miles, we had to pass over a small ridge of low, sandy bluffs, which extended to the river. After passing nearly over the bluffs we stopped half an hour to water the teams and eat a little dinner, then proceeded on three miles farther and passed over a creek of clear water, but this could not be very good in consequence of so many dead buffalo lying in it. We proceeded on half a mile, and finding tolerably good feed, stopped for the night, having traveled eight and half miles today. Weather fine, wind south and southeast; course a little west or northwest. We have seen few buffalo today, but there are signs of thousands having wintered in the neighborhood. The country looks beautiful, soil rich, only lacking timber. After the camp was formed, it being half a mile to water, the brethren dug two wells, and about four feet deep found plenty of good water. One of the wells is reported to run a pail full a minute. Brother Appleton Harmon is working at the machinery for the wagon to tell the distance we travel and expects to have it in operation tomorrow, which will save me the trouble of counting, as I have done, during the last four days. Took supper on some duck presented to Elder Kimball by George Billings.

Wednesday, May 12

Morning cool, weather fine. Brother Appleton Harmon has completed the machinery on the wagon so far that I shall only have to count the number of miles, instead of the revolution of the wagon wheel. We started at 9:10, the first mile pretty soft, the rest tolerably hard and very good traveling. We have passed over vast beds of salt, or rather dust with a salt taste. It looks something like dirty flour. Traveled eight miles in four hours and two minutes, and stopped at 12:48 to feed, nearly opposite two small islands. The feed tolerably good. Our course northwest. Considerable strong wind from southeast covering everything in the wagons with dust and sand. No timber on the bank of the river and but little on the islands. The hunters report that they have seen many dead buffalo between here and the bluff with the hides off and tongues taken out, a strong proof that Indians have been here very recently, as the flesh looks fresh and lately killed. The range of bluffs on each side the river extend much farther apart, and near the foot of the south range can be seen timber scattering along, which is an evidence that the south fork ranges in that direction, although some are sanguine that we have not yet arrived at the junction.

At half past three we moved on again and traveled four miles, camped at a quarter to six near a bunch of small islands, and a kind of bayou projecting from the river. Our course this afternoon a little south of west, having come around a considerable bend in the river. The land good and good traveling. Wind southeast. Several of the brethren caught a number of small fish in the bayou or lake. The feed here is rather scanty. Heavy clouds are rising in the west and northwest, and a fair prospect for some rain which is much needed. It is now certain that we are about fourteen and a half miles above the junction of the north and south forks of the Platte, and although we have to make a new road all the way, we find no obstacles so far. Brother Woodruff reports that he has been beyond the bluffs north of the camp and saw upwards of 200 wickeups where the Indians have camped very recently.

He found a cured buffalo skin and some pieces of other skins also. The hunters killed a two year old buffalo and brought it to camp. Brother Orson Pratt reports that when we were five and a half miles back, we were in latitude 41° 9' 44".

Thursday, May 13

This morning cold and cloudy, cold enough for overcoats and buffalo robes. The buffalo which was killed yesterday was cut up and divided this morning amongst the companies of tens. Some feelings are manifest this morning between Brothers Thomas Tanner and Aaron Farr on account of the former taking the latter prisoner and putting him under a guard part of the night. Perhaps Aaron was a little out of order in conversing loud after the horn blew for prayers, but I think Brother Tanner's angry spirit more blameable. At 9:00 we moved onward nearly a west course four miles and at 11:00 stopped to feed teams at a spot which is a little better than we generally have. The wind strong from north and northeast.

At half past twelve we proceeded on again and traveled till four o'clock, distance six and three quarters miles. At this distance we arrived at a stream about six rods wide which appears to come from the northeast, the water in appearance like the Platte, the bottom of the river quick sand. Water in the middle about two feet deep; at the sides quite shoal. It appears that travelers have never discovered this stream for it is not noticed in any works that we have seen. We crossed it without difficulty and camped on its banks. The weather cloudy and very cold, with a strong north wind. Presidents Young and Kimball rode ahead as usual to look out the road. They report that the bluffs half a mile west come clear to the river and are considerably high. They found several ranges of them and finally found a valley running between some of the ranges through which we can pass by going about a mile around from our course. This stream according to measurement, twenty-five and one quarter miles above the junction of the two forks and 341 miles from Winter Quarters, by estimation. President Young named it the North Bluff Fork. A while before we arrived here four of the brethren went to chase a few buffalo which were lying down at the foot of the bluffs, but they did not get any. Presidents Young and Kimball saw a very large rattlesnake near the river. Brother Kimball says the largest he ever saw in his life. I saw a small green snake today, very pretty, the back light green and the belly a pale yellow. Presidents Young and Kimball suffered severely with cold while riding over the bluffs to look for a road. Had to use buffalo dung for cooking, there being no timber.

Friday, May 14

The morning cloudy and very cold. In the west could occasionally be seen streaks of lightning and distant thunder heard. At 8:00 a.m. the dark clouds having approached nearer, it commenced raining pretty hard, accompanied by lightning and thunder. The President ordered the horses got up just before the rain commenced; and after the storm ceased, we started onward at a quarter past ten. After traveling about a mile we passed among and around the high bluffs, our course lying nearly in a north direction for some time, then turning south and on again approaching the river, nearly southeast. When within about three quarters of a mile from the river, we stopped to feed at twenty minutes to two, having traveled six and a quarter miles. We have got on the level bottom again and are probably not more than three miles in a direct line from where we started this morning. Presidents Young and Kimball went forward to point out the route, which is very good to travel, although considerably uneven. Brother Higbee killed an antelope and wounded another which made its escape while he was loading his rifle. We have better feed here than we have had for some time. We had a little more rain just as we came to a halt. We have not had much wind this morning but it is now increasing from the north. It is somewhat warmer than this morning. The atmosphere cloudy and looks as if we might have more rain. The land between the two forks for about 25 miles is perfectly flat and very level without timber.

The bluffs there rise suddenly, apparently in a line from fork to fork. There are many buffalo back in the valleys between the bluffs, and although there is no sign of the prairie having been burned, it is evident the buffalo have kept it eaten clean off, but have moved back and east, probably since the Indians have been hunting them. Some of the brethren have discovered fresh tracks where the Indians have gone up this north stream, evidently very lately. But we are satisfied the Lord hears the prayers of his servants and sends them out of the way before we come up to them. At three o'clock we proceeded on our journey, keeping above the lower prairie, which appeared soft and swampy. Our road was very uneven. We went two and a half miles and at half past four stopped to learn the report of those gone ahead to look out the road. There is another high range of bluffs about half a mile west of us, extending to the river. Elder Kimball went across the several ranges of bluffs to the west side, and hunted for a road in various directions, but there did not appear to be any possibility of finding a road between the bluffs, without going many miles around. President Young and he concluded it would be best to camp where the wagons are and in the morning cross right over the bluffs by doubling teams. Accordingly the encampment was formed about five-thirty, the train having traveled eight and three quarters miles today. Our course this afternoon nearly west, wind southeast. The feed for our teams grows much better, and on one of these high sandy bluffs I saw a large bed of flowers, not unlike the violet, and very rich. The sand on the bluffs in some places looks like large drifts of snow, and in other places seems to have deep chasms as if wasted by heavy rains. The atmosphere is still cloudy but not so cold as it has been. The hunters have killed two buffalo, three antelope and one badger during the day, which will be very acceptable. It was dark when the hunters returned to give the information. The revenue cutter was sent after the meat which was reported to be a mile and a half distant. It was late when they returned. There was an alarm made by the guard in the night supposing the Indians were near. The camp were aroused to secure their horses, but we had no further trouble about them.

I discovered that Brother Appleton Harmon is trying to have it understood that he invented the machinery to tell the distance we travel, which makes me think less of him than I formerly did. He is not the inventor of it by a long way, but he has made the machinery, after being told how to do it. What little souls work.

Saturday, May 15

This morning is very cloudy and very cold, more like a January morning than a May morning. The wind blows strong from the northeast. The brethren who killed the buffalo did not bring it to camp last night, but put it in the boat and left it till morning. About half past seven they brought it in and divided it to the captains of ten. At eight o'clock it commenced raining again but abated a little before nine. At nine o'clock we commenced moving and after traveling three-quarters of a mile began to ascend the sandy bluffs. It commenced raining again and it looks like rain for all day. It is very cold, the wind continues strong. The road was much of a zig zag over the bluffs, but only about a mile before we descended to the bottom. We traveled a piece farther and at half past ten o'clock it was considered best to turn out the teams until it ceases raining, after traveling two and a quarter miles. We found it unnecessary to double teams while crossing the bluffs and we got over without difficulty, much better than we had anticipated. About noon it again ceased raining and the signal was given to harness up teams. At half past twelve we proceeded and traveled till a quarter to three, distance four and a half miles, then formed the encampment in a circle about a quarter of a mile from the river. The road has been level but soft and wet, however not bad traveling. The bluffs are about half a mile to the north and several herds of buffalo grazing on them. Some of the hunters are gone to try and get some meat. The wind still keeps up, and is cold, damp and uncomfortable. The feed appears better here than we have had for some days, and the cattle soon fill themselves which is a comfort and blessing to the camp. Some of the brethren have been lucky enough to pick up a few sticks and dead wood but our chief dependence for fuel is dry buffalo dung which abounds everywhere, but the rain has injured it some for burning. About two miles back we passed a place where the Indians have lately camped during their hunt. It is plain that whole families are amongst their number as the foot prints and moccasins of children have several times been seen. They evidently make use of the buffalo dung for fuel, and for seats, they dig up sods and lay them in a circle around their fire which is in the center. We have passed a number of these little temporary camping spots this afternoon. The reason why we did not travel farther was that Elder Kimball being gone ahead to look out the road, etc., he found as he came near the next bluffs that the feed is all eaten off by the numerous herds of buffalo and found also, that we shall have to travel over the bluffs and they appear wide and would be impossible for the teams to get over them tonight, hence the necessity of stopping here where we have good feed. The soil on this prairie looks good and rich but there is no timber. In fact there is none in sight, except a small grove on the other side the river about two miles west of the camp. Late at night Porter Rockwell came in and reported that he killed a buffalo. The cutter was sent for it to bring it to camp. Our course this afternoon nearly west.

Sunday, May 16

Morning fine, but chilly and cold. Wind north. Eric Glines killed an antelope near the camp which was cut up and distributed. Soon after breakfast, President Young, Elders Kimball, Woodruff and Benson went on horseback to look out the best road over the bluffs. They returned at half past twelve and reported that we can pass through a valley between and around the bluffs, which will be about four miles across them. About 5:00 p.m. several buffalo were seen making their way from the bluffs towards our horses, some of which were very near them. Brother Eric Glines started out with the intention of driving the buffalo away, and bringing the horses nearer camp. When he got near, the buffalo did not seem much disposed to move and he shot at one of them and wounded him. He moved a little farther and Brother Glines followed him and shot three times more at him. The buffalo then ran about forty rods, fell, and soon expired. I went to look at him. He is a large one, judged to weigh about 700 pounds, and in pretty good order. I left the brethren skinning him and returned to camp where a meeting had been called at 5:00 p.m., and the brethren addressed by Elders Richards, Markham, Rockwood and Kimball, chiefly on the subject of obeying counsel, and Elder Kimball remarked in regard to hunting on the Sabbath. He would not do it even in case of necessity, but he did not feel disposed to find fault with the brethren. The laws and regulations for the camp of April 18th were then read by Brother Bullock and the meeting dismissed. About noon today Brother Appleton Harmon completed the machinery on the wagon called a "roadometer" by adding a wheel to revolve once in ten miles, showing each mile and also each quarter mile we travel, and then casing the whole over so as to secure it from the weather. We are now prepared to tell accurately, the distance we travel from day to day which will supersede the idea of guessing, and be a satisfaction not only to this camp, but to all who hereafter travel this way. I have prepared another board to put up here on which the distance from Winter Quarters is marked at 356¾ miles. I have also written on it that the last seventy miles are measured, and we shall continue to measure and put up guide posts as often as circumstances will permit through the journey. The whole machinery consists of a shaft about 18 inches long placed on gudgeons, one in the axle tree of the wagon, near which are six arms placed at equal distances around it, and in which a cog works which is fastened on the hub of the wagon wheel, turning the shaft once round at every six revolutions of the wagon wheel. The upper gudgeon plays in a piece of wood nailed to the wagon box, and near this gudgeon on the shaft a screw is cut. The shaft lays at an angle of about forty-five degrees. In this screw, a wheel of sixty cogs works on an axle fixed in the side of the wagon, and which makes one revolution each mile. In the shaft on which this wheel runs, four cogs are cut on the fore part which plays in another wheel of forty cogs which shows the miles and quarters to ten miles. The whole is cased over and occupies a space of about 18 inches long, 15 inches high and 3 inches thick.

After the meeting was dismissed, the cutter was sent to fetch the meat in, killed by Brother Glines. They soon returned and the meat was distributed as usual. Presidents Young and Kimball have walked out together towards the bluffs. After supper Elder Whipple made me a present of a half a candle made from buffalo tallow, by the light of which I continue this journal. Although, as may be expected, the buffalo are generally poorer at this season of the year, yet Brother Whipple has obtained sufficient to make two candles from his portion of meat received yesterday morning. The candle burns very clear and pleasant. The tallow smells sweet and rich. I imagine it has a more pleasant smell than the tallow of domestic cattle.

Monday, May 17

The morning very cold and chilly, wind northwest. Dr. Richards left another letter on the camp ground for the benefit of the next company. The letter is secured from the weather by a wooden case, and placed so that the brethren can hardly miss finding it.

We started on our journey at 8:13 a.m. After traveling a mile and a half, we arrived at the foot of another range of bluffs which extend to the river, and began to ascend about a quarter of a mile north from the river, the road also turning to the north. A quarter of a mile farther, we crossed a stream of spring water about three feet wide. The road for a little distance on both sides the stream is rough, sandy and crooked. We then turned westward, and passed over a number of bluffs as there was no chance to go around them without going miles out of our course. On these sandy bluffs, there are very many small lizards about four or five inches long from nose to the end of the tail, which is an inch and a half long. The body looks short and chunky and is of a light grey color with two rows of dark brown spots on each side of the body which make it appear striped. The head is shaped something like the head of a snake. They appear perfectly harmless and are pretty in appearance. After traveling two and a quarter miles beyond the last mentioned stream, we arrived at the west foot of the bluffs. The last part of the road very sandy and there are several very steep places of descent. However all the teams got safely over without difficulty. At the west foot of the bluffs, there appears more grass than anywhere we have yet been, although the buffalo have eaten it off considerably. Within a quarter of a mile from the bluffs, we crossed two small streams of spring water and at a mile from the foot of the bluffs, we crossed a stream of spring water about four feet wide with a very rapid current. The whole of this bottom seems full of springs and we have to keep near the bluffs to make a good road to travel, and in fact, we find it more or less soft and springy even close to the bluffs. A mile and a quarter west of the last mentioned spring is another small stream of very clear spring water. The others are rather muddy by running over sandy land. They all appear to have their rise in the bluffs a short distance from our road. At 11:35 we stopped to feed having traveled this morning, six and three quarters miles. Our course west, weather fine, warm, and little wind. While we were resting, one of President Young's horses (in care of Phineas) mired down in a soft slough. A number of men soon collected and with a rope dragged it out, washed and rubbed it, and all was well again. Latitude 41° 12' 50".

At two o'clock, we proceeded onward. After traveling a half a mile, we arrived at a very shoal stream of clear water about thirty feet wide but not over three inches deep in the channel which is about three feet wide. We forded it very easily and then passed over a short range of low sandy bluffs about a quarter of a mile wide and then entered on level prairie again, but we found it very soft and springy. Within two and a half miles from the last mentioned stream we passed two others, one very small, the other about four feet wide. They both doubtless rise from springs at the foot of the bluffs. About ten minutes after three o'clock, word arrived that a buffalo was killed by the hunters about a mile from the road. Two men were sent to skin and dress it. About the same time the revenue cutter arrived with two more buffalo, one said to have been killed by Luke Johnson and the other by John Brown, also an antelope killed by Amasa Lyman. The wagons halted at a quarter to four, took the meat out of the boat, which immediately returned to fetch the other buffalo which was killed by Porter Rockwell. The meat was cut in quarters and put into the wagons and at half past four o'clock we again moved onward and traveled till 5:50 p.m. and camped on a nice dry bottom prairie where the grass is shorter than that we have passed all day. We traveled this afternoon six miles and during the day twelve and three quarters, about a west course. We are some distance from water but several wells were soon dug and good water obtained at about four feet deep. Soon after we camped the boat came in with the other buffalo and the meat was all distributed equally around the camp, but it appears that some have already got more than they need and feel unwilling to take a good forequarter. The bluffs on the opposite side the river project to the river for some distance opposite this place. Latitude 41° 13' 20".

Tuesday, May 18