PART III.

SPRING-NOTES IN NAVARRE.

BY ALFRED CRAWHALL CHAPMAN.

The breeding-season in Navarre, owing probably to the high mean altitude of that province, appears to be relatively later than in other districts of similar latitude. In mid-April (1891) at St. Jean de Luz and Irun, we luxuriated in warm sunshine and the shade of leafy trees; but at Alsasua, on the afternoon of the 15th, we found ourselves transported to a region as cold and bleak as Northumbria, while at Pamplona, though the sun shone gratefully, his warmth was marred by a biting wind.

A parched-looking, sterile country separates the capital of Navarre from Burguete, a small village on the Spanish slope of the Pyrenees just under the Roncesvalles Pass, whither we were bound. Outside Pamplona, a single polyglot, or icterine warbler was observed, together with the following other species:--redstarts, tree-pipits, woodchats, ortolans, goldfinch, linnets, yellow-hammers, and chaffinches; and on the road to Burguete were added:--griffon vultures--doubtless from Yrurzun--Bonelli's eagle, red kites, one marsh-harrier, hoopoes, black redstarts, white wagtails, bluethroat (white-spotted form), robin, willow-wren, swallow, ring-ouzel, stonechat, wheatear, calandra lark, buzzard, kestrel, and grey partridge.

At Burguete, between April 17th and 21st, of raptores observed, with the exception of occasional kites, the buzzard was the commonest hawk, and already had eggs. Tawny owls had feathered young, but, beyond house-martins breeding in the crags, no other species appeared to have commenced to nest. In the beech woods around Burguete six species of tits were common, viz., the oxeye, blue, cole, marsh, long-tailed and crested. The last-named has a pretty rippling note, quite unique in its way. Nuthatches were numerous and clamorous, and green woodpeckers (? sp.) were noted. Amongst the box-scrub, fire-crests were common, with dippers and sandpipers on the streams; while, scattered about in the woods and hills, we came across wryneck, wren, white and yellow wagtails, pied and spotted flycatchers, turtle-and stock-doves, serin, gold-and bull-finches and carrion-crow. Above the Roncesvalles convent on April 20th, in a grey mist and drizzling rain, numbers of golden orioles, tree-pipits, skylarks, swallows, stock-doves and other common birds were picking their way northwards on migration; and a single spectacled warbler was obtained. This species has very active, sprightly movements, and a robin-like gait when hopping on the ground.

On April 21st we journeyed, _viâ_ Orbaiceta, to a forest-guard's house in the great Iraty forest, observing _en route_ grey wagtails and choughs, Egyptian vultures and ravens, the latter nesting. The change from the beech woods of Burguete to the endless spruce-fir forests of Iraty proved disappointing. Doubtless _Picus martius_ breeds here, for we saw woodpeckers' holes which, from their size, could belong to no other species; but not a sight either of this bird or of the nutcracker rewarded our careful search. Bonelli's warbler, with its rather shrill, monosyllabic note, abounded wherever the nature of the ground suited its habits, but had not yet paired; nor could we ascertain that any other species were yet breeding. The hedge-sparrow here was of a noticeably paler cast of plumage than at home--perhaps explained by the altitude; while at Burguete, the chaffinches were visibly brighter in colour, and we also detected a striking difference in the song of yellow-hammer and some other species, as compared with English birds--possibly the mysterious beginnings of evolution. On the way back to Burguete, a sedge-warbler and a lovely specimen of the wall-creeper--the only one we saw--were obtained.

During our six days' absence, a considerable influx of migrants had occurred at Burguete, as evidenced by increased numbers of pied flycatchers (mostly males), woodchats and black redstarts. Blue-headed wagtails (_M. neglecta_) were running on the grass about the horses' feet, and, though the bird has been given specific rank, reminded me strongly of _M. cinereocapilla_, which I knew well in Lapland in 1884. During a two hours' ramble before breakfast on April 25th, just before leaving for home, the following were observed:--sparrow-hawk, a pair of snipe, magpies and jays, one heron, a pale blue harrier and a golden eagle.

Our short experience in Navarre is conspicuous more for what we did _not_ see than for what we did. Extensive forests, thickly-grown, without underwood, and in a mountainous region, are not favourable to bird-life. Such places lack rabbits for the raptores, and are deficient in insect-food for the warblers and other small species, while the absence of marshy ground explains that of aquatic birds. April is, however,--at any rate in such seasons as that of 1891--quite a month too early for ornithological research in Navarre.

SUPPLEMENTAL NOTES ON BIRDS.

(SOUTHERN SPAIN.)

The following remarks relate to certain species which have come under our observation in Spain, but which have not been included in the text:--

Black-winged Kite (_Elanus cæruleus_, Desfont).--Rare: a pair observed near San Lucar in April. The male fell to a long shot, but rose again and escaped.

Sparrow-hawk (_Gavilan_).--Most numerous in winter, but some remain to breed.

Merlin (_Esmerejon_).--In winter only.

Lesser Kestrel (_Primilla_).--One of the commonest birds in spring and summer, nesting in swarms in the towns, on churches, &c., and on the ruined Moorish watch-towers.

Osprey (_Aguila pescadora_).--Frequently observed on Guadalquivir and other large rivers: breeds.

White Owl (_Lechuza_).--Abundant and resident.

Brown Owl.--Scarce in south: one shot in December.

Long-eared Owl (_Bujo_).--Rare in Andalucia: the young have been obtained near Granada. More plentiful in Castile and Biscay.

Short-eared Owl (_Carabo_).--In winter: often very numerous. While partridge-shooting on the plains, we have noticed five or six on wing at once. _Asio capensis_ we have not met with.

Kingfisher (_Martin pescador_).--Most numerous in winter: especially so in Portugal.

Wryneck (_Torce-cuello_).--In wooded sierras--March.

Mistle-Thrush (_Charla_).--Chiefly in winter, but breeds in higher sierras; have seen eggs taken near Tangier.

Dipper (_Pechi-blanco_, _Tordo de agua_).--Resident on mountain-streams, but relatively scarce in the south.

Hedge-Sparrow.--In garden at Jerez in January.

Wren (_Ratilla_).--Common and resident; nests in sierras in March.

Fire-crest.--In pine-woods; resident.

Tree-Creeper (_Trepaironcos_).--Resident; nests in the wooded sierras in April. It is also known as _Arañero_, _i.e._, "spider-catcher," a name it shares with the Wall-Creeper, which species we have not observed.

Nuthatch.--Common in Castile and the north, but not observed in Andalucia except in Sierra Nevada. This species is also known as _trepaironcos_.

Crested Tit (_Capuchino_).--Observed in the mountain forests of Castile. Resident and common near Gibraltar.

Sand-Martin.--Breeds on Guadalquivir--April.

Woodlark.--In winter only; leaves in April. Not common. Our familiar Skylarks and Titlarks swarm in winter in Spain, but leave the south in March. The Calandra, Crested, and Short-toed Larks, with the Corn-Bunting, are among the most abundant of Spanish birds at all seasons.

Rock-Bunting (_Emberiza cia_, Linn.).--Common in sierras, where it nests in April near clearings and cultivated patches.

White Wagtail.--Arrives in swarms in September, remaining till March. The pied wagtail we have not identified.

Grey Wagtail.--Common in winter, and some nest on the mountain streams, even in Andalucia.

Serin.--This, with the goldfinch and three following species, the stonechats, bee-eaters, rufous, and black-headed warblers and nightingales, is among the commonest and most characteristic birds of Southern Spain.

Linnet (_Camacho_).

Greenfinch (_Verdon_).

Chaffinch (_Pinzon_).--All common; most so in winter.

Rock-Sparrow (_Gorrion montés_).--Common in the sierras, where it breeds in holes in May.

Lesser Redpole.--Rare and irregular; in severe winters only. Many in garden at Jerez in January, 1888.

Siskin (_Lugano_).--Irregular; in winter only. Several obtained in garden, March 15, 1891.

Rook.--Occasional flocks in winter.

Carrion Crow.--Rare; found a nest with five eggs, Sierra de las Cabras, March 23rd. B. is sure he has seen _C. corniz_ when shooting in winter.[80]

Sandwich Tern.--Obtained on Guadalete in March and April on passage.

Gannets and Skuas.--Observed in Straits and Bay of Trafalgar in winter and early spring.

Red-throated Diver.--Several shot in winter.

Shearwaters.--In Straits: observed in hundreds off Málaga in March.

Stormy Petrels.--Common on the coast, and probably breeds on some of the rocky islands.

GLOSSARY.

_Á boca de jarro_--At short range.

_Abolága_--Spanish gorse.

_Aficionado_--An amateur, enthusiast.

_Alcornoque_--Cork-oak.

_Alforjas_--Holsters, saddle-bags.

_Almuerzo_--Breakfast, tiffin.

_Alparagatas_--Hempen-soled sandals.

_Anafe_--A charcoal cooking-stove.

_Arenál_--Sand-waste, desert.

_Armajo_--Samphire.

_Arramago_--Charlock.

_Arroyo_--Stream, watercourse.

_Bandada_--A flock, or pack.

_Bandolerismo_--Brigandage.

_Barbon_, _barbudo_--Bearded.

_Barranco_--A low cliff.

_Barrio_--Quarter of a town, suburb.

_Batida_--A beat, or drive for game.

_Bebidero_--A drinking-place.

_Boracha_--A wine-skin.

_Borrico_--A donkey.

_Busné_--A gentile--_i.e._, not a gypsy.

_Cabestro_, or _cabreste_--Decoy, stalking horse.

_Cama_--Bed, lair of wild beast.

_Camino_--Road.

_Campo_, _campiña_--Country, cultivated land.

_Cancho_--Crag, precipice.

_Cántaro_--Water-jar.

_Carabinero_--Carbineer, exciseman.

_Carbonero_--Charcoal-burner.

_Casuela_--Stewing-pan, also the stew.

_Catre_--Tressle-bed, camp-bed.

_Cazador_--Shooter, sportsman.

_Caza mayor_--_menor_--Large, and small game.

_Cédula de vecindad_--Certificate of identity.

_Cencerro_--Cattle-bell.

_Cerrones_--Panniers, mule-packs.

_Chambonada_--Bungle.

_Chapárro_--An evergreen oak.

_Choza_--Peasant's cot or hut.

_Cicada_--Cricket.

_Cochino_--Pig.

_Contrabandista_--Smuggler.

_Corral_--enclosure; belt of forest or jungle.

_Coto_--Game-preserve.

_Cuadrilla_--Troop, gang.

_Dehesa_--Grazing ground, sheep-walk.

_Despoblado_--Desert, waste.

_Dicho_--Declaration, troth.

_Dormidero_--Sleeping-place.

_Echando la rueda_--"Making a wheel"--_i.e._, describing a circle.

_Encierro_--Driving in bulls to the ring.

_Entrada_--Entry, immigration.

_Era_--Threshing-ground.

_Errate_--"Black blood" (gypsy).

_Escopeta_--Musket, gun.

_Espada_--Sword; a matador.

_Falucha_--Felucca-rigged boat.

_Faja_--Waistband.

_Fango_--Mud.

_Funda_--Saddle-sling for gun.

_Garganta_--Mountain-gully.

_Garrocha_--Long wooden lance.

_Gazpacho_--A dish of bread, vegetables, oil, vinegar, &c., a salad.

_Guiso_--Stew.

_Huerta_--Orchard, garden.

_Jaca_--Riding horse, pony.

_Junco_, _juncale_--Reed, reed-bed.

_Ladron en grande_--Robber on a large scale.

_Lancha_--Small boat, punt.

_Lidia_, _lidiador_--Fight, fighter (of bulls).

_Macho_--Male.

_Majo_--Dandy, gallant.

_Malagueña_--Couplet, topical song.

_Mancha_--Thicket, jungle.

_Manchon_--Fallow.

_Mano negra_--"Black Hand," a secret society.

_Manta_--Cloak, saddle-rug.

_Marisma_--Marsh land.

_Monteria_--Mountain-shooting campaign.

_Mosca_--Fly.

_Nata_--Cream.

_Navaja_--Clasp-knife.

_Novio_-_a_--Sweetheart.

_Ojéo_--Drive (for game).

_Olivár_--Olive-grove.

_Olla_--Earthen cooking-pot, stew.

_Pajaráco_--Large bird, vulture.

_Pajaréra_--Breeding-place of birds.

_Parador_--Inn, resting-place.

_Patero_--Duck-shooter.

_Patio_--Courtyard of house.

_Pinal_--Pine forest.

_Piorno_--A species of broom.

_Podenco_--Hunting-dog (of lurcher type).

_Poniente_--West wind.

_Posada_--Village inn, lodging-house.

_Puchero_--Earthen pan for cooking.

_Pueblo_--_cito_--Village, hamlet.

_Puesto_--Post, ambush.

_Querencia_--Haunt.

_Rastro_--Trail, spoor.

_Reclamo_--Decoy, call-bird.

_Retamo_--A species of broom.

_Rincon_--Corner.

_Rodéo_--"Rounding-up" of cattle.

_Sartén_--Frying-pan.

_Sequestrador_--Bandit who holds to ransom.

_Serrano_--Mountaineer.

_Suerté_--(1) Luck; (2) the modes of attack or "passes" in the bull-fight.

_Tentadero_--Trial (of young bulls).

_Tirador_--Gunner.

_Toréo_--Art of bull-fighting.

_Toril_--Lair of bull, adjoining bull-ring.

_Toro bravo_--Fighting bull.

_Tunante_--Cunning rogue.

_Vega_--Open plain.

_Venta_--Wine-shop.

_Vereda_--Bridle-path.

_Zincali_--Gypsy.

INDEX.

Absence of twilight, 403, 409

Adventure with a bull, 10

---- Lynx, 355-6, 447

Æsthetic tastes in birds (?), 112 _et seq._

Agriculture, Chap. xviii., p. 220, xix., p. 231, 294-5-6

Ague, 108

Alpine Accentor, 147

---- Chough, 147, 154 (footnote)

---- Pipit, 147, 155

---- Swift, 154, 216, 247, 254, 451

Altitudes of mountains, 26, 143, 153 (footnote), 159, 168, 179

Alto Douro, 329 _et seq._

Andalucian Quail, 353, 420

Anomalies, Spanish, 151

Ants, 244, 245

Arctic weather in Spain, 392 _et seq._

Asturias, The, 3, 183, 184 _et seq._, 307, 442

Atmospheric effects, 89

Avocet, 75, 77, 84, 86 (breeding), 381, 399

Azure-winged Magpie, 80, 252, 256-7-8

Badger, 108, 250, 364, 449

Balance of Life, 259 _et seq._, 264-5

Basques, The, 5, 176

Bear, 3, 179, 185, 442-3

Bee-eater, 252, 254, 256, 261, 325, 451

Bird-life in Gredos, 147, 154

---- Bermeja, 160

Bird-life in Navarre, 454 _et seq._

Bittern, 80, 254, 272-3, 364, 423-4

---- Little, 255, 271, 273, 427, 453

Blackbird, 147, 249, 304

Blackcap, 247, 349

Black Chat, 147, 216, 299

Black Kite, 82, 242-5, 265, 275, 451

Black Vulture, 146 (breeding), 200 _et seq._

Bleeding, Universal remedy, 305-6, 447

Blue Rock-Thrush, 29, 147, 160, 210 (footnote), 216, 299

Bluethroat, 147, 454

Boar, Wild, Chap. ii., p. 23, Appendix, 443-4

---- 84, 185, 270, 355, 368-9

---- Obstinate nature of, 29, 369

Bohemian Gypsies, 291-2

Bonelli's Eagle, 160, 204, 217-18-19, 255, 454

Booted Eagle, 81, 84, 160, 199, 204, 254, 265, 451

Breeding-season (of birds) prolonged, 255

Brigandage in Spain, Chap. x., pp. 116-127, 163

Bull-fighting, Chap. v., p. 54

---- Attempts to suppress, 58, 59

---- Breeds of bulls, 60, 341

---- _Encierro_, The, 65

---- Life of a fighting-bull, 60-1

---- Mediæval bull-fights, 57-8

---- Modern epoch, the, 59

---- Origin of, 55-6

Bull-fighting, _Tentaderos_, The, 61-4

Bungles, magnificent, 362, 409

Bunting, Cirl-, 147, 254, 452

---- Corn-, 88, 147

---- Ortolan, 88, 147, 254, 452, 454

---- Reed-, 88

---- Rock-, 458

Burning the bamboo-brakes, 361 _et seq._

Bustard, The Great, Chaps. iii., 33, iv., 40, xxx., 338, 254, 294

---- -driving, 38, 46 _et seq._

---- -shooting, at wells, 35

---- ---- with lantern, 36

---- ---- from cart, 37

---- ---- single-handed, 42

---- The Little, 255, 266, 294, 306, 343 _et seq._

Butterflies, 148 (footnote), 212 (do.), 332, 352

Buzzard, Common, 148, 181, 242, 262, 364, 409, 410, 454

---- Honey, 254, 451

Camels, Wild, Chap. viii., p. 94

---- Repugnance towards horses, 99, 101

Capercaillie, 3, 187

Capileira, 168

_Cazador_, The Spanish, 137, 177, 350

Centipedes, 161, 332

Civil Guards, The, 14, 152-3

Chaffinch, 304, 454, 458

Chamæleon, 352 (footnote)

Chamois, 3, 179, 185, 441-2

Character, Iberian, 4, 6, 301, _etc._

Charcoal-burners, 14, 124, 126

Chicorro and the Black Bull, 289, 290

Chiffchaff, 247, 452

Chough, 147, 154, 171, 210, 301

Climate, 24, 352, 371, 384, 392

_Consumos_ (Octroi), 219, 228

Coot, 77, 364, 424, 427

Cork-oak, 16

Cormorant, 74, 427

Cost of a bull-fight, 67

Coto Doñana, 240, 348 _et seq._

Country-life, hatred of, 1, 221, 224-5, 227

Crag-Martin, 147, 155, 160, 210, 452

Crake, Corn-, 253, 419, 424, 452

---- Baillon's, 273, 424

---- Little, 273, 424

---- Spotted, 273, 364, 419, 424

Crane, Common, 253, 266-7, 294, 306, 420-1, 427, 453

---- Demoiselle, 254, 422, 453

Crossbill, 246, 407

Crow, Carrion-, 455, 458

---- Grey-backed, 458

Cuckoo, Common, 254, 257, 451

---- Great Spotted, 80, 246, 253, 256-7, 451

Curlew, 380, 388

---- -Sandpiper, 76, 89

---- Slender-billed, 453

Cushat, 160, 253, 301, 419

Dabchick, 270, 424, 427

Dancing, 20-1, 313, 356-7

Dartford Warbler, 147, 304

Deer, Red, 249, 350 _et seq._ 437-8

---- Fallow, 438-9

---- Roe-, 28, 161, 216, 303, 439-40

---- -shooting, 355, 359 _et seq._ 367, 405 _et seq._, 438 _et seq._

Difficulties of travel, 9, 72, 161

Dipper, 174, 455, 457

Discontent, Agrarian, 12, 212, 227, 327

Disease and epidemic, 313

Doñana, Coto de, 240, 348 _et seq._

Dormouse, 147, 449

Drunkenness, Rarity of, 313

Ducks, _see also_ under Pochard Teal, Wigeon, &c.

---- Gadwall, 267-8, 376, 392, 402, 425

---- Garganey, 73, 77, 253, 268, 376, 392, 402, 425, 453

---- Mallard, 73, 77, 267-8, 375, 402, 425-6

Ducks, Marbled, 77, 84, 254, 269, 376, 392, 425, 426, 453

---- Pintail, 73, 269, 373, 375-6, 402, 425

---- Red-crested, 267, 376

---- Scoter, 74, 425

---- Sheld-, 376, 392, 425-6

---- Shoveller, 73, 269, 374-5, 402, 425

---- Teal, 73, 264, 268, 375, 401, 425

---- Tufted, 74, 375, 425

---- White-eyed, 73, 254, 268, 375, 392, 425, 453

---- White-faced, 77, 254, 269-70, 376, 402, 425, 453

---- Wigeon, 73, 253, 373, 375, 402, 425

Dunlin, 73 (breeding), 75, 88, 381

Eagle, Bonelli's, 160, 204, 217-19, 255, 454

---- Booted, 81, 84, 160, 199, 204, 254, 265, 451

---- Golden, 154, 160, 204, 212, 215, 218-19, 306, 309

---- Imperial, 188 _et seq._, 204, 262-3, 275

---- Sea-, _or_ White-tailed, 199

---- Serpent-, 199, 204, 215, 241-2, 253, 262, 265, 451

---- Tawny, 194 _et seq._, 410

---- -shooting, 192, 239

Eagles in confinement, 203

---- Prey of, 264-5

Eagle-Owl, 24, 210, 255, 301

Eggs, small numbers laid, 249

Egret, 76, 254, 271, 273, 392, 427, 453

Egyptian Vulture, 147, 203, 211-12, 253, 333, 451

_Encierro_, 65

Escape, Narrow, 439

Estremadura, 132, 240, 301, 443, 444

Fairs in Spain, 151

Falcon, Eleanora, 265

Falcon, Peregrine, 154, 160, 265, 353 (Southern)

Fallows and flowers, 225

Fantail Warbler, 246, 268-9

Fire-Crest, 407, 455, 458

Fire-flies and Glow-worms, 332

Fishermen, Spanish, 177

_Flamenco_-ism, 67 (footnote), 288-9

Flamingoes, Among the, Chap. ix., p. 102

---- 74, 109 (breeding), 112 (young), 255, 381

---- -shooting, 105

Flight-shooting, 356, 358, 375, 386 _et seq._, 421 (Crane)

Flycatcher, Pied, 247, 452, 455

---- Spotted, 249, 255, 452, 455

Food of raptores, 264-5

Fox, 29, 100, 108, 332, 369, 445

Frogs, 251, 276

---- Tree-, 332

_Fueros_, of Basques, 5

Gadwall, 267-8, 376, 392, 425, 453

Galicians, The, 4, 329, 330

Gannet, 459

Garganey, 73, 77, 253, 268, 376, 392, 399, 425, 453

Gecko, 352 (footnote)

Geese, Wild, 73, 376 _et seq._, 379, 388 _et seq._, 425, 427

---- Bean, 379, 425

---- Grey Lag, 377, 379, 425, 427

---- Lesser White-fronted, 379

Genet, 108, 250, 364, 407, 448

Glossy Ibis, 76, 254, 269, 271, 427, 453

Godwit, Bar-tailed, 75, 427, 453

---- Black-tailed, 75, 254, 453

Golden Eagle, 154, 160, 204, 212, 215, 218-19, 306, 309

---- Oriole, 80, 247-8, 252, 254, 452, 455

---- Plover, 253, 266, 381

Goldfinch, 84, 205, 249, 294, 454

Goose--_see_ Geese

Goshawk, 160, 253

Granada, 166, 173

Grapes, Abundance of, 331, 336

Great Bustard--_see_ Bustard

---- Spotted Cuckoo, 80, 246, 253, 256-7

---- Spotted Woodpecker, 160, 253

---- Tit, 160, 249, 454

Green Sandpiper, 76, 275, 381, 399

Greenshank, 76, 85, 381, 453

Green Woodpecker, 247-8, 253, 256, 262-3, 455

Grebe, Eared, 77, 398, 424, 427

---- Great Crested, 270, 424, 427

---- Little, 270, 424, 427

Grey Lag, 377, 379, 425, 427

---- Phalarope, 76, 89

---- Plover, 76, 89, 452

Griffon Vulture, 29, 160, 205 _et seq._, 215-16, 294-96, 302, 454

Gull, Black-headed, 90, 91

---- Brown-headed, 78, 254

---- Great Black-backed, 78

---- Herring, 78

---- Kittiwake, 78

---- Lesser Black-backed, 78

---- Little, 78, 398, 427

---- Skua, 459

---- Slender-billed, 90, 91

Gypsies, Chaps, xxiii., p. 277; xxiv., p. 287

Hare, Spanish, 353, 449

Harrier, Hen-, 80, 254, 294, 381

---- Marsh-, 77, 85, 92, 262, 264, 268-9, 275, 364, 381, 401-2

---- Montagu's, 89, 92, 254, 262, 264, 275, 451

Harvest, 225

Hawfinch, 160, 246, 407, 409

Hay, 226

Hazel-Grouse, 3, 187

Hen-Harrier--_see_ Harrier

Herdsmen of Sierra, 16, 25, 295, 301, 317 (note), 320 _et seq._

Herons, 76, 81, 84, 271 _et seq._, 381, 427

---- Buff-backed, 76, 81, 254, 271-3, 453

Herons, Night-, 76, 81, 254, 271-3, 427, 453

---- Purple, 76, 78, 82, 253, 399, 453

---- Squacco, 76, 81, 255, 271, 273, 453

Hobby, 254, 451

Honey Buzzard, 254, 451

Hoopoe, 80, 246, 249, 253, 451, 454

Horse-breeding, 233-4

Ibex, Spanish, Chap, xi., p. 128; Appendix, 440-1

---- Distribution, 131-2

---- Scenting powers, 146 (note), 316

---- Specific distinction, 128-9

Ibex-shooting, Sierra de Gredos, 140 _et seq._

---- Nevada and Alpujarras, 166

---- Riscos de Valderejo, 150

---- Sierra Bermeja, 157

Ibex-stalking, 148, 165, 316 _et seq._

Ibis, Glossy, 76, 254, 269, 271, 427, 453

Ichneumon, Spanish, 28, 108, 250, 299, 449

Imperial Eagle, 188 _et seq._, 204, 262-3, 275

Industry of peasantry, 169, 311

Insect-life, 148 (note), 161, 212 (note), 259, 332, 352

Jackdaw, 253

Janda, Lagunas de, 266, 299, 421

Jay, 160, 258, 301, 456

Justice, Judicial, 11 (footnote), 125, 370

---- Summary, 247-8, 370-1

Kentish Plover, 75, 88, 253, 381, 452

Kestrel, 205, 265, 294

---- Lesser, 253, 265, 451, 457

Kingfisher, 457

Kite, Black, 82, 242-3, 244-5, 265, 275, 451

---- Black-winged, 457

Kite, Red, 242-5, 252, 262, 264-5, 275, 366, 409, 454

Knot, 76, 85, 453

Lammergeyer, 160, 255, 293 _et seq._, 307 _et seq._

Landrail, 253, 419, 424, 452

Lanjaron, 167

Lark, Calandra, 88, 454, 458

---- Crested, 88, 458

---- Short-toed, 88, 253, 452, 458

---- Sky-, 147, 174, 254, 458

---- Wood-, 458

Leeches, 80, 81, 82, 367

Leon, 5, 151, 183

Lesser Kestrel, 253, 265, 451, 457

Lesser Ring-Plover, 75, 88, 452

Linnet, Grey, and Green, 249, 304

Little Bustard, 255, 266, 294, 306, 343 _et seq._

Lizards, 260, 261, 352

Logroño, Sack of, 283

Lunatic, Sad episode of a, 27

Lynx, Spanish, 106, 250, 355, 359, 436, 446-7

---- ferocity of, 355-6, 446-7

Magpie, Common, 253, 256-8, 456

---- Azure-winged, 80, 252, 256-8

Mallard, 73, 77, 267-8, 375, 425, 426

Marbled Duck, 77, 84, 254, 269, 376, 392, 425, 453

Marismas, The, Chaps, vi., vii., pp. 70-93, 94 _et seq._, 103 _et seq._

Markets, fruit, &c., 235

Marriage-customs, 320 _et seq._

Marsh-Harrier, 77, 85, 92 (breeding), 262, 264, 268-9, 275, 364, 381, 401-2

Marten, 185, 448

Martin, Crag, 147, 155, 160, 210, 452

---- House, 452, 454

---- Sand, 452, 458

Measurements of horns (deer), 361, 437-8 (ibex), 130, 147, 156, 319

Mediterranean Black-headed Gull, 90, 91

Merganser, 425

Merlin, 457

Migration, 72 and 89 (vernal), 253 _et seq._, 274, 384, 393-4

Mills, Table of, 237

Mirage, 78, 90

Mole-cricket, 249, 270, 276, 332

Mongoose, 28, 108, 250, 299, 363, 449

Montagu's Harrier, 89, 92 (breeding), 254, 262, 264, 275, 451

Moufflon, 442

Mouse, 342, 363, 449; Dormouse, 147, 449

Navarre, Bird-life in, 454 _et seq._

Nightingale, 84, 205, 211, 249, 254, 451

Nightjar, Common, 264

---- Red-necked, 247, 254, 276, 451

Nutcracker, 455

Nuthatch, 147, 454, 458

Olive, Culture of, 231

Orange harvest, 305

Origin of Spanish people, 4

Oriole, Golden, 80, 84, 247-8, 252, 254, 452, 455

Ortolan, 88, 147, 254, 452, 454

Osprey, 457

Otter, 364, 449

Owl, Eagle-, 24, 210, 255, 301

---- Brown, 454, 457

---- Little, 247-8, 253, 264, 276

---- Long-eared, 457

---- Scop's, 253, 276, 451

---- Short-eared, 457

---- White, 251, 457

Oyster-catcher, 392

Paradox gun, 361, 415 (footnote)

Partridge, Grey, 187, 454

---- Red-leg, 29, 252, 304, 331

---- -shooting (Portugal), 332

---- ---- (Spain), 304, 351 _et seq._

Peewit, 76, 88, 294, 304, 380

Peregrine, 154, 160, 265, 353 (Southern)

Petrel, Stormy, 459

Phalarope, Grey, 76, 89

Pintail, 73, 269, 373, 375, 376, 425, 426

Pintailed Sand-Grouse, 85, 89, 381, 432

Pipit, Meadow, 147, 254, 458

---- Tawny, 452

---- Tree-, 452, 454-5

Ploughing, 225

Plover, Golden, 253, 266, 381

---- Grey, 76, 89, 453

---- Kentish, 75, 88, 253, 381, 452

---- Lesser Ring-, 75, 88, 253, 452

---- Ring-, 89

---- Stone-, 262, 351, 452

Poacher caught, 369-70

Pochard, common, 73-4, 375, 392, 425

---- Red-crested, 267, 376

---- White-eyed, 73, 254, 268, 375, 392, 425, 453

_Podencos_ (hunting dogs), 26, 100

Polecat, 449

Portugal, Alto Douro, 329 _et seq._

---- Insect life in, 332

---- Partridge-shooting, 331-2

---- Quail, 419-20

---- Snipe-shooting, 417, 423

---- Trout-fishing, 175

---- Viticulture in, 329 _et seq._

_Posada_, 19 _et seq._, 80, 296-7, 305, 312

Pratincole, 76, 91 (breeding), 254, 276, 427, 452

Ptarmigan, 3, 147, 187

Quail, 205, 266, 341, 419, 452

---- Andalucian, 353, 420

Rail, Land-, 253, 419, 424, 452

---- Water-, 273, 419, 424, 427

Rainbow, Circular, 171

"Rare birds," 72, 238

Rats (land-, and water-), 342, 363, 449

Raven, 147, 160, 171, 181, 243-4, 409-10, 458 (footnote)

_Reclamos_ (call-birds), 304

Red-leg Partridge, 29, 252, 304, 331, 351

Redpole, 458

Redshank, 75, 88, 381, 399

Redstart, 147, 160, 247, 451, 454

---- Black, 247, 454

Redwing, 300, 304

Reptiles, 79, 259, 260 _et seq._, 352 (footnote)

Revolution, 12, 212-13, 227-8, 327

Ring-Ouzel, 147, 171, 254, 451, 454

Ring-Plover, 89

Roads in Spain, 10, 151, 294

Robin, 247, 304, 454

Rock-Thrush, 147, 254, 451

Roe-Deer, 28, 161, 216, 303, 439-40

Roller, 80, 82, 249, 252, 254, 256, 451

Rook, 458

"Rough times," 79, 103, 109, 168, 304

Ruff, 76, 254, 399, 453

Salmon, 176

Sanderling, 76, 453 (note)

Sand-Grouse, Black-bellied, 86

---- Pintailed, 85, 89, 381, 432

Sand-hills of Doñana, 245, 367

Sandpiper, Common, 76, 88, 147, 174, 181, 453, 455

---- Curlew-, 76, 89, 453

---- Green, 76, 275, 381, 399

---- Wood-, 275, 453

Santandér, 179

Scenes described, 89, 100, 159

Scorpion, 161, 332

Scoter, 74, 425

Sea-Eagle, 199

Serin-Finch, 84, 205, 249, 455, 458

Serpent-Eagle, 199, 204, 215, 241-2, 253, 262, 265, 451

Shearwater, 459

Sheep, 151, 234

---- Wild, 442

Sheld-duck, 376, 392, 394, 425

---- Ruddy, 376, 392, 426

Short-toed Lark, 88, 253, 452

Shoveller, 73, 269, 374-5, 425

Shrew, 449

---- Trumpeter, 449

Shrike, Redbacked, 80

---- Southern Grey, 80, 246, 253, 256, 294

---- Woodchat, 84, 246, 249, 254, 256, 452, 454

Siskin, 458

Skylark, 147, 174, 254, 455

Slender-billed Gull, 90-1

Smell, Sense of (ibex), 146 (note), 316 (deer), 405

Smugglers, 12, 14, 120-1, 163, 214

Snakes, 79, 260, 261-2

Snipe, 254, 380, 392, 417 _et seq._, 427

---- -shooting, 417 _et seq._

---- Great, 453

Sparrow-Hawk, 160, 456, 457

---- Hedge-, 455, 457

---- Rock-, 458

---- Spanish, 244

Spoonbill, 76, 84, 271, 399, 426, 453

Starling, 254

---- Spotless, 249, 253-4, 452

"Still-hunting," 359, 364, 428 _et seq._

Stilt, 75, 84, 86 (breeding), 88, 381, 392, 398

Stint, Little and Temminck's, 453 (note)

Stonechat, 147, 257, 454

Stone-Curlew, 262, 351, 453

Stone-Pine, 245

Stork, Black, 253, 423, 453

---- White, 84, 210, 381, 399, 423, 453

Sunstroke, 73, 306

Swallow, 247, 253, 255, 451-2

Swans, Wild, 279, 426

Swift, Alpine, 154, 216, 247, 254, 451

---- Common, 205, 254, 451

---- Pallid, 451

Teal, 73, 264, 268, 375, 401, 424

_Tentadero_, 61

Terns, 76, 276, 427, 453, 459

---- Black, 92, 255, 273, 453

---- Gull-billed, 93, 273, 453

---- Lesser, 93, 254, 273, 453

---- Whiskered, 92, 254, 273, 453

---- White-winged Black, 267

Theories, Danger of, 114

Threshing (corn), 226

Thrush, Blue, 29, 147, 160, 210 (note), 216, 299

---- Common, 147, 254, 300, 304

---- Mistle-, 457

---- Rock-, 147, 254, 451

Tit, Blue, 247, 249, 455

---- Crested, 249, 455, 458

---- Great, 160, 249, 455

---- Various, 247, 455

Titlark, 147, 254, 458

Toads, Immense, 272

Trapping birds of prey, 244, 252

Travel, Incidents of, 10-12, 167-8, &c.

Tree-Creeper, 247, 407, 458

Trout, 171, 173 _et. seq._, 183 _et seq._, 296

Tufted Duck, 74, 375, 425

Turtle-Dove, 80, 253, 254, 452, 455

Twilight, Absence of, 403, 409

Unique Shot (at Bustard), 51

Vegetation, Luxuriant, 83, 352

Vernal bird-notes, 84, 205, 454

Viticulture in Spain, 325 _et seq._, 333 _et seq._

---- ---- Portugal, 329 _et seq._

Vulture, Bearded--_see_ Lammergeyer

---- Black, 146, 200 _et seq._

---- Egyptian, 147, 206, 211-12, 268, 333, 451

---- Griffon, 29, 160, 205 _et seq._, 215-16, 294-6, 302

Wagtail, Grey, 458

---- Grey-headed, 249, 452, 455

---- White, 253, 454-5, 458

---- Yellow, 455

Wall-Creeper, 455, 458

Warbler, Blackcap, 247, 249

Warbler, Black-headed, 247, 249

---- Bonelli's, 452, 455

---- Cetti's, 247, 268

---- Dartford, 147, 304

---- Fantail, 247, 268-9

---- Garden-, 249, 254, 451

---- Great Sedge-, 247, 254, 268, 451

---- Melodious W., 84, 249, 255, 268, 452, 454

---- Orphean, 84, 247, 254, 451

---- Pallid, 255, 451

---- Reed-, 268, 452

---- Rufous, 247, 249, 254, 452

---- Savi's, 254, 452

---- Spectacled, 254, 451, 455

---- Sub-alpine, 254, 452

---- Willow-, 247, 249, 452

---- Wood-, 452

Water, a national drink, 222

Water-beetles, 427

Water-hen, 424

---- Purple, 424, 427, 452

Water-Rail, 273, 419, 424, 427

Water-Shrew, Trumpeter, 449

Weasel, 449

Wheatear, Common, 253, 451, 454

---- Eared, 147, 254, 451

---- Russet, 147, 254, 451

Whimbrel, 76, 255, 427, 453

Whinchat, 181, 451

White-eyed Duck, 73, 254, 268, 375, 392, 425, 453

White-faced Duck, 77, 254, 269-70, 376, 424, 426, 453

Whitethroat, 249, 254, 451

Wigeon, 73, 253, 373, 375, 402, 425

Wild Cat, 84, 108, 250, 362, 447-8

Wild Sheep, 442

Wildfowl, Variety of, 365, 383, 388, 398-9, 402

---- Heavy shots at, 366, 374, 382, 403, 404

Wildfowling, 356, 358, 365, 371 _et seq._, 384, 395 _et seq._

---- with _cabrestos_, 365, 372

---- ---- stanchion-gun, 395 _et seq._

Wine, 24, 245, 332, 334-7

Winter in Spain, 352, 371, 384, 392, 395, 428

Wolf, 153, 167, 313-14, 332, 444-5

Woodchat, 84, 246, 249, 254, 256, 452, 454

Woodcock, 253, 419

Woodpecker, Great Black, 187, 455

---- ---- Spotted, 160, 253, 300

---- Lesser Spotted, 80

---- Spanish Green, 247-8, 253, 256, 262-3

Wood-Pigeon, 160, 253, 301, 419

Wood-Sandpiper, 275, 453

Wren, 160, 455, 457

---- Fire-crest, 407, 455, 458

---- Willow-, 247, 249, 452

---- Wood-, 452

Wryneck, 451, 455, 457

Yellowhammer, 454-5

Zincali, 277 _et seq._, 287 _et seq._

Zurita, 211

Woodfall & Kinder, Printers, 70 to 76, Longacre, London, W.C.

_Demy 8vo, 300 pages, with 50 Illustrations by the Author, 12s. 6d._

Bird-Life of the Borders:

RECORDS OF

WILD SPORT AND NATURAL HISTORY ON MOORLAND AND SEA.

BY

ABEL CHAPMAN.

"At last we have a book on birds in their haunts by a writer who is thoroughly master of his subject--one who has plenty to say, and who also knows how to place his experiences vividly before the reader. The portions devoted to the Cheviots and the moorlands recall the scent of the heather, while the narrative of adventures by day and by night in a gunning punt along the 'slakes' off Holy Island is pervaded by the keen salt breezes from the North Sea. In addition to his powers of description, Mr. Chapman is possessed of considerable abilities as a draughtsman, and although, through modesty, the fact is not mentioned on the title-page, this work contains numerous illustrations from his own pen-and-ink sketches, some of them being really admirable for breadth and boldness of execution.... As regards the second part, which treats of wild-fowling with the stancheon-gun, we can only say that nothing like it has appeared since the publication of Colonel Hawker's classic work. The haunts and habits of wild-fowl by day and night have never before been so clearly pointed out in any work with which we are acquainted."--_Athenæum._

"One of the pleasantest books conceivable ..., it illustrates the valuable results of many years' observation, sometimes in the way of jottings from note-books, sometimes in descriptive sketches that are the most stirring and animated of pictures. Mr. Chapman is a naturalist of Gilbert White's school in the keenness and accuracy of his perceptions. He sees things for himself and takes nothing upon trust. Every lover of a country life will delight in his vivid sketches.... The author's enthusiasm is something irresistible. Even the drawbacks of that 'waiting game,' wild-fowling appear as of no weight when estimating the glories of the sport as set forth in the admirable chapters on 'Wild-Fowl of the North-East Coast,' 'Midnight on the Oozes,' 'Wild-Fowl and the Weather,' and so forth. Mr. Chapman illustrates his book with pen-and-ink drawings, chiefly of wild-fowl, which are excellent for the most part, and excellently reproduced."--_Saturday Review._

"The ardour for sport is tempered in the author's case by a steady habit of observation, backed by careful note-taking and _reflection_, and widened by experiences in other lands; and the result is such an accurate record of the habits and movements of living birds in a single district, and at all seasons of the year, as is hardly to be found in any other volume of the same modest size and pretensions.... When the Southern reader lays down this book he feels quite at home among the curlew, the golden plover, and the grouse on the moors; he feels that he has done the next best thing to a personal endeavour to get a sight of those long lines of wild-geese on the bleak Northumbrian coast."--_Spectator._

"An invigorating out-of-doors air pervades this book, and a happy directness of description.... Although very comprehensively treating of bird-life, a considerable portion of the book--and that not the least interesting--is devoted to shooting (open and covert), but mainly punt shooting. In sporting experience, so far as concerns the north-east coast, Mr. Chapman stands in the front rank, and discourses of it with an authority beyond controversy or challenge."--_Land and Water._

"Among the classics of local Natural History."--_Scotsman._

"His pages bristle with curiously minute and interesting facts concerning 'our feathered friends.'"--_Leeds Mercury._

"Reads with the freshness of romance."--_Glasgow Herald._

"Every page is original, breezy, and fresh, and calculated to arouse the longings of the sportsman, naturalist, and artist."--_Newcastle Courant._

"One of the best books we have ever come across on bird-life, not only of the borders, but of the United Kingdom."--_Western Daily Press_ (Bristol).

"A charming book, of which no true naturalist or sportsman will quickly tire."--_Guardian._

"Will enchant all who are fond of birds. Sympathy with all living creatures, careful observation with cautious deductions, and strong love for the bleak moors and wild scenery of the Cheviots--such are the characteristics of this most interesting book.... The illustrations add a great charm to a book redolent of wild life and careful observation."--_Academy._

"Abounds in subjects of interest; the scientist will not be disgraced and the lover of sport and outdoor adventure will be more than pleased.... The illustrations are in every sense an additional charm.... No book we ever read so amply fulfilled the promise of its title."--_Kelso Mail._

"We predict for it the success to which its originality and charm, no less than its scientific value, eminently entitle it."--_Northern Whig_ (Belfast).

"Transports us to the borderland of England and Scotland, as well as to that of sport and science, and contrives to give us pictures of Arctic Northumberland which are appallingly glacial, with episodes of bird-life on moor or marsh which are astonishingly wild for the British Islands.... Writes of them all with the picturesque vigour that comes of thorough knowledge and deep affection."--_Pall Mall Gazette._

"It is doubtful if the birds themselves, if they could read such books, would not count it folly to wish that their masters were more wise than they are in the ways of wild-fowl, seeing that such knowledge must be gathered mainly with the fowling-piece and the stancheon-gun. They might deem the apathy of King Log preferable to the flattering attentions of King Stork. Books of Sport and natural history are written, however, for sportsmen and naturalists and not for birds. Mr. Chapman's volume is one of the best of its kind. It has blemishes, as every work that has vigour and originality about it must have. But it is full of keen and intelligent observation.... Exhilarating and delightful."--_Scots Observer._

"Many years of wandering on the hills, moors, and mosses of the Border-land, and of wild-fowl shooting on the bleak and exposed north-east coast, have given the author ample opportunity, and he has evidently made use of his chances, the result being these pleasant and original chapters, written in the best style, and the perusal of which must be delightful to every true lover of nature."--_The Naturalist._

"This is an admirable book of its kind ... full of interest to devotees of the gun and rod."--_Nature._

"For attitudes of wild-geese we have seen nothing better than the illustrations to Mr. Abel Chapman's 'Bird-life of the Borders.'"--_The Field._

"Although reviewers may play for safety when they are not sure of their subject as regards an indifferent book, they show a wonderfully quick appreciation for one that is thoroughly good. The present volume is a case in point, for the author is at once a true sportsman and a naturalist, as well as an artist of no mean ability, and from all sides comes the chorus of praise."--_Annals and Magazine of Natural History._

GURNEY & JACKSON, 1, PATERNOSTER ROW.

(SUCCESSORS TO MR. VAN VOORST.)

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FOOTNOTES:

[1] The _fueros_ of the Basques comprise certain franchises and privileges granted or upheld by ancient charters, and are their undoubted right, though sought to be ignored by Madrid statesmen. It was largely through his promises to re-establish their _fueros_, that Don Carlos enlisted the sympathy and support of the Basque provinces. The subject, however, is an intricate one, and is only alluded to incidentally.

[2] An amusing little instance of Spanish justice arose out of this:--Having refused to pay the fine, no further steps were taken for its recovery, nor to uphold the majesty of the law, until, long afterwards, the mulcted man's purse was stolen from his pocket in the bull-ring at P----. On his appearing to prosecute the thief, whose guilt was clearly proved, the Alcalde declined to restore the money, quietly pocketing the purse with the remark, "I think, Señor Caballero, this will just about settle the account between us!" This casual way of administering justice was amusing enough, and consoled one for the feeling of having been "bested."

[3] There is an excellent description of one of these tragic scenes in Borrow (_Zincali_, i., pp. 48, 49).

[4] In a subsequent chapter we give some account of the life--and death--of Vizco el Borje.

[5] _See_ "El Bandolerismo," by El Excmº. é Ilmo. Señor Don Julian de Zugasti, late Governor of the province of Córdova (Madrid, 1876).

[6] We have seen an exception to this in the mountain villages of the Castiles, where, on _fiesta_ nights, a sort of rude valse is danced in the open street.

[7] The sporting incidents here narrated occurred twenty years ago, viz., in March, 1872. This was the authors' first shooting expedition _together_: for which reason we place its record in the first chapter.

[8] _Avetarda_ is old Spanish, the modern spelling being _Abutarda_.

[9] The grand secret of success in this sport (as elsewhere remarked) is to place the guns _close up_ to the game. The means by which the primary object is attained can hardly be set down on paper--nothing but practice, quick and good judgment, and a sportsman's instinct will effect it. In more than one instance we have found a deadly line ambushed within 150 yards of the most watchful bustards, and on ground where, to a novice, the feat would certainly be set down as impossible.

[10] The expression "Bull-fight" is a very inadequate interpretation of the Spanish _Corrida_, or _Fiesta de Toros_, even in its modern form, and conveys no idea of the magnificent spectacular displays of the middle ages. Then, the national heroic life was but reflected in the arena, in scenes embellished with all the stately accessories and colouring dear to semi-Oriental minds. The mimic pageantry of to-day is but a relic of former grandeur.

[11] Spanish writers, however, jealous for the national origin of the sport, insist that the "Fiestas de Toros" were born in Spain, that there alone have they increased and flourished, and that in Spain will they continue while time lasts.

[12] On this point, Sanchez de Nieva writes ("El Toréo," published at Madrid, 1879):--"The Arabs were much given to bull-fighting, and highly skilled in the _lidia_, whether mounted or on foot. It must, however, be borne in mind that these encounters took place in Spain, and that the so-called Arabs were in reality Spaniards--the Moorish domination having then lasted for seven centuries. It may be stated, without fear of error, that nearly all the inhabitants of this country, after the first two centuries, were, though born in Spain, Arabs in origin."

[13] Attempts were made by other countries to imitate the Spanish spectacle. Italy, in 1332, celebrated a tauromachian festival which has left a sad record on the page of history. No fewer than nineteen Roman gentlemen, and many of lower rank, perished on the horns of the bulls. After this tragic event bull-fights were prohibited in Italy, though for a time revived by the Spanish in that country after their conquest of Flanders and the Low Countries.

[14] De Bedoya's "Historia del Toréo" (Madrid, 1850) gives Francisco de Romero as the first professional _lidiador_ of the modern epoch.

[15] The better-bred animals are always the more harmless, if not molested.

[16] The following are some of the best known _garrochistas_ of recent years: Señores Don Antonio Miura, Don Faustino Morube, Don Miguel Garcia, Don Guillermo Ochoteco, Don José Silva, Don Fernando Concha, Don Agusto Adalid, Don Angel Zaldos, Don Manuel Sanchez-Mira, Marques de Bogaraya, Marques de Guadalest, Don Frederico Huesca, Marques de Castellones, &c.

[17] The bull-fighters and their friends affect a language peculiar to the Plaza: a dialect of systematic construction. To acquire a knowledge of this "Jerga" (La Germania), with its idiomatic piquancy and raciness, is the aim of the "fancy" young men, the _Flamencos_ of Southern Spain. To be in the circle of the popular bull-fighters, with its perilous female entourage, is considered _chic_ by certain gilded youth. Flamenco-ism appears to find its _beau idéal_ in the borderland which lies between the bizarre existence of the "torero" and the Gitano or gypsy. (_See_ chapter on the Spanish Gypsy of to-day.)

[18] The _mancha_ of Salavar in the Coto Doñana is an example of one of these green oases amidst barren, lifeless sand-wastes.

[19] These Godwits (_Limosa belgica_) are more common on passage earlier in the spring. We have seen flights of many hundreds in February and March. The Common Bar-tailed Godwit (_Limosa rufa_) we have never chanced to meet with here, either in winter or spring--only on its southern passage, in September.

[20] Kittiwakes and Black-headed Gulls in swarms during March and early April, whitening acres of water. The latter remained till perfect summer-plumage is attained (by March 21st). Little Gulls frequent: on two occasions (in February and March) observed in scores. _Larus fuscus_ and _L. argentatus_ were common in March, and on April 5th we obtained an adult of _L. marinus_ in the marisma. Of British Terns, _S. cantiaca_ and _S. fluviatilis_, were noticed in early spring.

[21] When first hatched, the legs of the young Stilts are quite short; but by mid-June are of medium length, pale clay-colour, and curiously swollen about the knee-joint. The upper plumage of the young at that date is mottled brown, irides brown. By the following January these young Stilts have acquired a black and white plumage; but the irides remain dark, and the legs a pale pink. The adults vary in the disposition of black and white in their plumage, especially on head and neck, and some few have the breast prettily tinged with roseate.

[22] A pair of the _L. gelastes_ shot this day (together with some other of our Spanish specimens) are now set up in the Hancock Museum at Newcastle-on-Tyne.

[23] From the dates subsequently given, it would appear that the young camels are produced about the month of February, or perhaps earlier.

[24] With the possible exception of those stated to have been discovered in the Kum-tagh deserts of Central Asia by Col. Prejevalsky, the Russian explorer.

[25] Wild-bred cattle, many of them destined for the bull-rings of Jerez or Seville.

[26] The repugnance evinced by horses towards the camel was known ages ago. At the battle of Sardis (B.C. 546) this equine weakness was utilized by Cyrus in opposing to the Lydian cavalry a vanguard of camels (Herodotus, Clio, pp. 78, 80). A similar stratagem was proposed by Amurath I. at the decisive battle of Kossova between the Ottoman army and the Confederate hosts of Servia, Bosnia, and Wallachia, August 27th, 1389, but was abandoned in deference to the fiery impetuosity of Prince Bajazet and some supposed precepts of the Koran.

[27] The English language provides no word specially to designate a male goat. We have, therefore, fallen back on the word _ram_, which, though not strictly accurate, is the nearest available term.

[28] Horns from Nevada are thinner, more compressed laterally, and the ridges show the spiral curves less distinctly. It is, after all, the old question of what constitutes a species.

[29] The horns of the Spanish ibex rather resemble those of the burrell, or wild sheep of the Caucasus, &c., than typical ibex-horns.

[30] "In the Pyrenees," Sir Victor Brooke writes us, "they are rare, and live in the worst precipices I ever saw an animal in. They go into far worse ground than chamois, and are very nocturnal--never seen except in the dusk and early dawn, unless disturbed."

[31] The ibex of Asia Minor--a quite distinct species, _Capra ægragus_--appears, according to Mr. E. N. Buxton (_Nineteenth Century_, February, 1891, p. 261, _et seq._), to have somewhat similar habits, frequenting the pine forests and lower wooded slopes of the hills, by preference to the treeless summits. But the Turkish mountaineer is a very different man to his Spanish representative, and appears utterly careless of the charms of the chase, seldom molesting the wild goats, whereas in Spain they are rarely left in peace while there is a chance of killing them.

[32] A previous expedition in Gredos had proved entirely blank, not an ibex being secured in a fortnight's shooting.

[33] The ibex are very fond of this shrub, which in summer has a red bloom; and the zone of the _piornales_ is the lowest to which they descend, even in winter.

[34] It is worth mentioning, as showing the importance of the wind and the precarious nature of this pursuit, that on the former occasion a sudden change in the wind had destroyed all chance for the day, and rendered useless many hours' hard work and carefully-planned operations. Even a "flaw" in its direction is often fatal to success, so keen of scent is the _cabra montés_.

[35] From big game to butterflies is a far cry; yet, on the chance of having some entomological readers, we may mention the following _Rhodopalocera_ observed in these Central Spanish sierras: On the wooded slopes and among the scrub, the speckled wood (_Ægeria_) and a large wall (? sp.) were common; so also was a small species of azure blue. A single orange-tip (_Cardamines_) was observed, and several of the handsome _Melanargia sillius_. A very small copper was perhaps _Polyommatus virgaureæ, var. Miegii_, Vogel, and of the clouded yellows, _Colias phicomone_, E., higher, and _C. edusa_ and _hyale_, lower, were also observed. On the heights was a small orange-, or chestnut-coloured insect, very active, and quite unknown to us. A hairstreak (? _Theckla roboris_) and _L. sinapis_ occurred in the lower woods, where the brilliant _Gonopterix Cleopatra_ was also seen, as well as one or two examples of a large and very handsome insect, apparently of the _Limenitis_ group--chequered black-and-white, probably _L. Camilla_, F. One should, however, be a specialist to identify these exotic species.

[36] Such place-names as Mom-Beltran de Lys, the Torre de la Triste Condesa, and others, seem to suggest tales of historic lore and legend, probably long since forgotten.

[37] The highest point of the Riscos appeared to be about 7,000 ft., and commanded a superb panorama of the whole Sierra de Gredos, with its towering peaks and snow-fields stretching away to their apex in the Plaza de Almanzor. With regard to altitudes, we here write with some uncertainty, as our aneroid, after being depressed to twenty-one inches, appeared to exhibit some irregularities, and had possibly suffered some internal or constitutional injury.

[38] We succeeded in taking several eggs of this bird in the crevices of a sheer crag, after a somewhat perilous climb. These eggs are very light-coloured; the ground colour is pale cream, faintly spotted with brown and dull greyish splashes.

[39] Specific names not guaranteed.

[40] We found a nest of the Sandpiper (_Tolanus hypoleucus_) with four nearly fresh eggs on May 23rd--Provincia de Santandér.

[41] This transformation of colour is well represented (though not designedly so) by the two plates at p. 88 of Dr. Bree's "Birds of Europe" (2nd ed.). The "Tawny Eagle" there figured might be a young Imperial of, say, two months old; while _Aquila culleni_, so far as colour is concerned, would do duty for the same bird at two years.

[42] Now in the Hancock Museum at Newcastle.

[43] The Rock-Martins' nests were fixed under the roof and upper ledges of the caves, not unlike Swallows'. Their eggs are white, slightly flecked with grey. At the same date (May 18th) we also obtained a nest of the Blue Rock-Thrush, with five beautiful greenish-blue eggs. The male, during the breeding-season, has a pretty habit of towering up in the air, singing merrily, then falling back among the rocks like a stone.

[44] Observed at this place and date a greater variety of butterflies than ever before in Spain--brilliant Painted Ladies and Fritillaries (?sp.); but most conspicuous were "yellows" of various kinds: _Thäis polyxena_ and _Colias edusa_, large pale "sulphurs," some whole-coloured, others with bright orange-tips; in others, again, the orange adjoined the body. There were also many Heaths and Browns, Speckled Wood, Bath Whites, and many (to us) unknown species.

[45] One nest still contained an unfledged youngster. On my appearance at his abode the unsightly little brute at once disgorged a mass of carrion that necessitated an immediate retreat.

[46] Of the 8,529,600 separate rural properties which exist on the Spanish land-register, 2,729,600 are administered and cultivated for the account of their proprietors; and 800,000 are let at a rental, either in cash or "kind."

[47] Though no hay is made expressly, yet the sun-baked herbage, called _pastos_, of the fallows and winter grazings is practically equivalent to hay found ready-made.

[48] Taxation falls heavily enough on the farmer direct. Land-owners are asked by the State for about one-fourth of the rental. The tax on tenant-farmers is equally heavy, estimated by a cumbrous assessment, based on the number of draught-oxen employed, or the head of grazing stock. A large proportion of the taxation leviable is, however, evaded.

[49] The following table shows the production of _cereals_ (in Spain) in a normal year:--

Wheat 32,776,055 hectolitres. Barley 17,410,164 " Rye 7,392,778 " Maize 7,788,183 " Oats 2,633,672 "

[50] A hectare is, roughly, about an acre and a half. A hectolitre is equivalent to two and three-quarter bushels.

[51] The large irides and general appearance of this species seem to indicate crepuscular tendencies, and an affinity--obsolete or evolvent--to the _Strigidæ_, which is recognized in its generic name, _Circäetus_, next to the Harriers. But, in fact, the affinity is more apparent than real, for the Serpent-Eagle is of purely diurnal habits.

[52] Some Kites (_M. ictinus_), which had been feeding on reptiles, had a most offensive smell. The beak of the male, in this species, is _yellow_ to the tip; in the female, horn-colour. The kites all lay _two_ eggs, on the bare sticks--only once, in each case, have we found the dual number exceeded, viz., _M. ictinus_, three young, on May 2nd; _M. migrans_, three eggs, on May 10th. We have found the eggs of the first-named as early as the closing days of March.

[53] Partridges commence this love-song as early as February. In March it is continuous at sunrise and towards dusk. Here is an attempt to syllable it:--

"Ch[)u]ck, ch[)u]ck ... churroùk, churroùk, Chukàr, chukàr, ch[=o][)u]k!"

[54] In Egypt the Grey-backed Crow (_Corvus cornix_) is almost exclusively the Cuckoo's dupe; in Algeria, _Pica mauritanica_.

[55] "The Zincali; or, an Account of the Gypsies of Spain." By George Borrow. 2 vols. London, John Murray, 1841.

[56] Whatever may have been their origin, their language demonstrates that the Spanish gypsies are not (as has been suggested) relics of the expelled Moors, Arabs, or _Moriscos_, with whose tongue theirs has no affinity. Many of the Rommany words appear to be of Sanscrit derivation.

[57] In speed of foot, the gitano lads carry off the palm, leaving all competitors behind in the rare athletic contests which have taken place in Southern Spain.

[58] These particulars are, however, given in nearly all Spanish diaries and almanacs.

[59] We do not encumber ourselves on these bird-hunting expeditions with tents, tressle-beds, indiarubber baths, and the other luxuries of the regular shooting campaigns. Sometimes, after sleeping in the _cerrones_, if no water was near, one's toilet was confined to a general "shake up," like a fox-terrier turning out from his mat, and we rode on till a hill-burn afforded a chance of a bath and breakfast.

[60] Our own experience on this point would not enable us to assert this fact so positively--indeed we have observed instances in which the reverse case _appeared_ to obtain; but the circumstance has been stated to us by an ornithologist whose authority stands beyond question or doubt.

[61] Both my companion Ramon Romatez, and Juan Guarro y Guarro, as well as several of our other men, were independent yeomen, owning from 150 to 200 goats apiece, which they pastured on the slopes of the sierra. They were, however, glad to accompany us for the sum of eight _reales_ (one shilling and eightpence) a day.

[62] Except at vintage-times the Alto Douro is almost uninhabited. Hence in early autumn, when work is plentiful, there occurs an extraordinary influx of labourers--men and women--many from considerable distances, and especially from the Spanish province of Galicia, flocking into the Alto Douro as the hop-pickers in September pour into Kent from the _arcana_ of London, or as the Irish harvesters at that season flood the Midlands and North of England.

[63] The following are the constituents of the four different classes of soil of the Jerez vignobles, according to Don Simon de Roxas Clemente:--1st. _Albariza_, chiefly consists of carbonate of lime, with a small admixture of silex and clay, and occasionally magnesia. 2nd. _Barros_, composed of quartz or sand, mixed with clay and red or yellow ochre, which forms horizontal bands extending along the coast from the mouth of the Guadalquivir as far as Conil. 3rd. _Arenas_, or pure quartz ore sand. 4th. _Bugeo_, which contains argillaceous loam, mixed with carbonate of lime, some quartz ore sand, and a large proportion of vegetable mould.--"History of Modern Wines," by Dr. Alexander Henderson, p. 190.

[64] Dr. Henderson makes a contrary statement in his "History of Ancient and Modern Wines," p. 190 (London, 1824); but this we imagine must be attributed to a slip of the pen, and is, in any case, erroneous.

[65] Nowhere can these spectacles be witnessed with greater ease, or to better advantage, than on the Lower Guadalquivir, where, from the deck of our vessel, we have counted as many as forty or fifty _barbones_ within easy reach of a field-glass. It is, however, only in the first hours of daylight that they are thoroughly "on view."

[66] Col. Irby gives this love-note as "_prut, prut_." Mr. Howard Saunders describes the rising and falling movement as more of a _jump_, which may very likely be a more correct definition; or, perhaps, both actions are executed. At the distance at which observations are possible, it is difficult to be quite certain what one sees.

[67] It may be appropriate here to add that the curious chamæleon, which is found nowhere else in Europe, is abundant in this district. It is not, however, seen in mid-winter. Another remarkable reptile is the lobe-footed gecko (_Platydactylus muralis_), which swarms about rocks and old walls. Both the reptiles and insects of Spain would probably richly repay further research.

[68] Since the above was written we have acquired the sporting rights over parts of these great marshes, and have engaged the worthy wildfowlers, Vasquez and Vergara, as keepers. Many pleasant days have we spent with them and their ponies. But of this sport a fuller account will be found in another chapter.

[69] That is, with two men behind the pony. We have since then, going _single-handed_, occasionally succeeded in outwitting even the Grey Lag.

[70] Garganeys are said to be the swiftest of all the duck-tribe, and to lead the migrating flights, both on their southern journey and also when steering north. Hence their name: "_capitanes_."

[71] In the previous year (1888) the opening bag was 37 geese, 373 ducks, and 46 various.

[72] The best day, walking for snipe, December 4, 1889, produced 232 snipe--six guns.

[73] This failure of the gunning-punt in Spain is the more inexplicable as in Egypt--the only other southern land in which, to our knowledge, this sport has been attempted--the very reverse was the case. An Englishman who took out a punt to the Nile abandoned the pursuit, as he found no difficulty in taking the craft to such close quarters that he bagged fifty to sixty each shot. Similarly, Lord Londesborough found the fowl in the Egyptian lagoons so easily accessible that, after securing 2,290 geese and 1,800 ducks in the season (sixty-four geese being his biggest shot), he abandoned further operations as lacking the one essential condition--that of difficulty. (_Badminton Library._--"Shooting: Moor and Marsh," pp. 261-2.)

[74] Our biggest shot with the _cabresto_-ponies realized 74 ducks and teal; guns, a single 4-and a double 8-bore.

[75] The following note, being made from experience and on the spot, may be worth inserting:--In driving large game of any kind, be careful to make a good screen: there is always time to build up a breastwork either of branches, or rocks, or snow, or whatever the material at hand may be. If placed behind a thick bush, cut a deep nick into it with the hunting-knife, so that one stands _well back_--_i.e._, right into the bush, and appears to form an integral part thereof. How glad one is of these little precautions _when game appears_!

[76] It may, however, fairly be added that we were using, in those days, spherical bullets and the old cylinder smooth-bores--always erratic in ball-practice beyond forty or fifty yards. All that is now superseded by the introduction of the Paradox rifled gun (Col. Fosbery's patent), one of the prettiest inventions and most remarkable improvements in modern gunnery. With this beautiful weapon, which shoots ball as accurately as a rifle, and comes to the eye as handy as a game-gun, no distracting doubts need flurry one's aim at flying stag or boar within one hundred yards; even snap-shots in covert are now a luxury instead of the nerve-and temper-trying ordeal of yore. Such is the power and penetration of the hollow-fronted conical ball that we have "raked" a stag from stem to stern at one hundred and forty yards, the bullet entering his chest, and lodging near the root of the tail almost undamaged, after traversing the whole of the animal's vitals. For all Spanish large game, the 12-bore Paradox, weighing 7-1/4 lbs., and burning 3-1/2 drs. of powder, is an admirable weapon, and, except for ibex and deer-stalking in the higher cordilleras, where very long shots may be necessary, it almost takes the place of the heavier express rifle.

[77] "Quien come carne de Grulla, vive cien años."

[78] These old and cunning stags do not always break covert so readily, as the following incident will show. We had tracked a hart for some miles, till eventually the trail led towards quite a small clump--not two acres--of 20-ft. gorse and tree-heath with an outer fringe of bamboo, all growing on dry ground, though entirely surrounded by flood-water. Every indication pointed to the stag having couched in this congenial covert; the hunters, however, traversed it without moving game. The water-weeds outside showed no sign of the stag having passed onward: but, to make sure, we took a wide cast on the drier ground beyond, separating so as completely to encircle the _mancha_. No vestige of a trail could be seen; clearly the beast still lay in the recesses of his island-sanctuary. The gun once more took up his position to leeward, and the covert was beaten again--this time more effectively, for presently, amid crash of branches and bamboos, the stag, which had been lying like a hare in its form, bounded out across the shallow marsh--with the usual result!

[79] Where exact dates are mentioned in the following table they refer to the earliest or the latest occurrences, respectively, that have come under our notice.

[80] _Corrigendum_:--Though we have stated (p. 243) that the Raven breeds _late_ in Spain, it also does so early, for Mr. Saunders writes us:--"At Malaga it was nesting by mid-February, and near Baza I watched a pair feeding their young between 15th and 20th March."