Category: Travel Writing

Watching on the Rhine

Four A.M.: the slowly moving engine comes to a standstill with a jolt which wakes me from the uneasy half-sleep of a train journey. I lift a corner of the blind and look out. It is the grey hour before the dawn, when night still wrestles with morning for the possession of the...

Chapters

1. CHAPTER XVI

2. CHAPTER I

Four A.M.: the slowly moving engine comes to a standstill with a jolt which wakes me from the uneasy half-sleep of a train journey. I lift a corner of the blind and look out. It...

3. CHAPTER II

During the war we thought and talked with anguish daily of that line of trenches stretching from Switzerland to the sea where men suffered and died. Even the most unimaginative...

4. CHAPTER III

In the Wallraf-Richartz Museum, where, after the manner of German collections, pictures and antiques, both good and bad, jostle each other with small regard to quality, a series...

5. CHAPTER IV

If the Dom is the central point of the religious life of Cologne, the Dom Platz is no less the central point of official and ceremonial life in the town. During the last eightee...

6. CHAPTER V

Every billet has its crab. To that rule there is, I believe, no exception. The crab may be physical or moral, but the crab exists. Conquerors and conquered come up against each...

7. CHAPTER VI

Christmas-time in Germany! I am haunted by the recollection of the beautiful passage in Mr. Clutton Brock’s _Thoughts on the War_, a book which many of us read when no improbabi...

8. CHAPTER VII

One of the real advantages of life in Cologne is the charm of the surrounding neighbourhood. Not that the neighbourhood to which I refer is near at hand or very accessible excep...

9. CHAPTER VIII

Long ago in Winnipeg I remember finding two young French girls in the immigrants’ reception camp. I inquired if they had come to Canada alone. Whereat the elder with a fine gest...

10. CHAPTER IX

To the traveller passing from the devastated regions of France to the hills and valleys of the Rhineland, there is something almost scandalous in the impression of wealth and so...

11. CHAPTER X

A fine spring morning, ten days’ leave, a motor car, the open road calling us to new sights and fresh adventures--in such good case we left Cologne one April forenoon for Wiesba...

12. CHAPTER XI

There is something grim and forbidding about the name of Metz. The tragedy of shame and defeat with which it was connected during the Franco-Prussian War hangs round it like a s...

13. CHAPTER XII

Never have I appreciated more fully than during the months I have lived in Germany the many advantages of an island people. No more detestable fate can exist than to be a border...

14. CHAPTER XIII

German political life is in the main a sealed book to the British public. Many people take but a tepid interest in the politics of their own country. To grapple with the intrica...

15. CHAPTER XIV

It is, I fear, true that national hatreds are in the main created and kept alive by the educated and upper classes. Working men and women throughout the world, absorbed as they...

16. CHAPTER XV

Personally I am under considerable obligations to August Lomberg, Rektor in Elberfeld. His _Präparationen zu deutschen Gedichten_ for the purposes of instruction in schools has...

17. CHAPTER XVI

It is probable that at no moment in the history of the world has a spirit of disillusion been so widespread and so profound as at the present time. Not only apparently have the...