Category: Travel Writing

Wanderings in North Africa

Grennah. — Arab Conversation. — Fountain of Cyre. — Ruins of Cyrene. — Interrupted by Bedawin. — Ruins of a Theatre. — Bas-reliefs. — Inscriptions. — Terraces. — Temple of Æsculapius. — Aqueduct. — Cyrene’s History unknown. — Its Ruinous state 33

Chapters

1. CHAPTER I.

2. CHAPTER II.

3. CHAPTER III.

Grennah. — Arab Conversation. — Fountain of Cyre. — Ruins of Cyrene. — Interrupted by Bedawin. — Ruins of a Theatre. — Bas-reliefs. — Inscriptions. — Terraces. — Temple of Æscul...

4. CHAPTER IV.

5. CHAPTER V.

6. CHAPTER VI.

7. CHAPTER VII.

8. CHAPTER VIII.

9. CHAPTER IX.

10. CHAPTER X.

11. CHAPTER XI.

12. CHAPTER XII.

13. CHAPTER XIII.

14. CHAPTER XIV.

15. CHAPTER XV.

16. CHAPTER XVI.

Vexatious Delay. — Lose the Track. — Short commons in the Desert. — Genuine Arab Hospitality. — En route for Siwah. — Sand Valleys. — Scene of Desolation. — Signs of Volcanic Ac...

17. CHAPTER XVII.

Encampment at Siwah. — Conference with the Sheikhs. — Refuse to quit Siwah. — Attack on the Tents. — Detained at Siwah. — Incidents while imprisoned. — Defensive Preparations. —...

18. CHAPTER XVIII.

19. CHAPTER XIX.

Antiquities of Agharmy. — Ruins of a Temple. — Ancient Palace. — Acropolis of the Oasis. — Tombs of the Ammonians. — Interior of Siwah. — Ruins of Beled er-Roum. — Many Ruins ar...

20. CHAPTER XX.

Leave Siwah. — Rude Sepulchres. — A Camel’s Last Stage. — Sand Storm. — Find an Arab Cousin. — Corn hard to get at. — Adieu to the Desert. — The Desert. — The Oasis. — Arrive at...

21. CHAPTER I.

The journey which the following pages describe had been for many years the object of my wishes, although it was only in 1852 that I was able to put my design in execution. The e...

22. CHAPTER II.

I was detained in Benghazi much longer than I could have wished by the non-arrival of a vessel containing a part of my luggage, and by the beginning of Ramadhan, during which ti...

23. CHAPTER III.

My first day in Grennah was entirely occupied in the very matter of fact, but not less necessary, employment of arranging my encampment, whilst Mohammed was equally busy in rece...

24. CHAPTER IV.

August 10.—A few days after arriving in Grennah, having obtained a general idea of the ruins, and made such arrangements as were likely to conduce to a comfortable stay, I went...

25. CHAPTER V.

August 23.—I have described, as I can, the ancient city; but the Necropolis, which yet remains to be visited, is, in fact, still, as in old times, the glory of Cyrene. Among its...

26. CHAPTER VI.

The Wady Bil Ghadir, the Valley of Verdure, was one of the many beautiful ravines in this country which particularly attracted my admiration; it was one of my favourite haunts;...

27. CHAPTER VII.

After spending six weeks in Grennah, I struck my tent most unwillingly, and made preparations to continue my journey eastwards. It was too late in the autumn longer to sojourn h...

28. CHAPTER VIII.

_September 12th_.—It was late in the day before the camels which I had engaged to take my luggage to Derna were ready, and much time was lost, even after a start was made, befor...

29. CHAPTER IX.

From the summit of the Okbah one looks down upon a long line of coast, the view extending to the promontory Ras el Hilal (Nausthasmus) on the left, and eastward to the Ras el Ti...

30. CHAPTER X.

_October 10th._—The old road, with its deep-worn ruts, from time to time reappears among the underwood, and its course is marked for a great distance from the city by groups of...

31. CHAPTER XI.

_October 16th._—Right glad to escape the furnace-like blasts which swept, stifling, over the plain of Merdj, I started, though late in the afternoon, on the way to Tolmeta. The...

32. CHAPTER XII.

On arriving in Benghazi I found a house prepared for me, by the kindness of one of my friends, who gave up to me the only waterproof rooms which, I believe, exist in the town. T...

33. CHAPTER XIII.

_November 4th._—After many _pour parlers_ with a caravan of Majabra (inhabitants of Jalo), who had come to Benghazi to sell their dates, and after making one or two false starts...

34. CHAPTER XIV.

_November_ 17.—The palm groves extend for more than three miles in a curved hollow to the town of Augila, and nearly as much beyond it, forming almost a half circle of verdure....

35. CHAPTER XV.

With bitter maledictions against the fathers of all the Majabra, I saw my luggage loaded to return to Augila, and then started with a single servant for the district called Ijhe...

36. CHAPTER XVI.

Vexatious delay. — Lose the track. — Short commons in the Desert. — Genuine Arab hospitality. — En route for Siwah. — Sand valleys. — Scene of desolation. — Signs of volcanic ac...

37. CHAPTER XVII.

Encampment at Siwah. — Conference with the Sheikhs. — Refuse to quit Siwah. — Attack on the tents. — Detained at Siwah. — Incidents while Imprisoned. — Defensive Preparations. —...

38. CHAPTER XVIII.

One of my first visitors was the Moghrabi from Tangiers, already mentioned, called El Gibely, who has been settled here for many years. He was a perfect specimen of this class o...

39. CHAPTER XIX.

Antiquities of Agharmy. — Ruins of a Temple. — Ancient Palace. — Acropolis of the Oasis. — Tombs of the Ammonians. — Interior of Siwah. — Ruins of Beled er-Roum. — Many Ruins ar...

40. CHAPTER XX.

Leave Siwah. — Rude Sepulchres. — A Camel’s last stage. — Sand Storm. — Find an Arab Cousin. — Corn hard to get at. — Adieu to the Desert. — The Desert. The Oasis. — Arrive at C...