Part 10

The old bridge of Cramond is little used now. It stands a hundred yards lower down the water than the new bridge, over which the road runs to Queensferry. The woods of Dalmeny sweep down the river-side, but above the bridge Craigie Hall claims one bank, and Cammo the other. Cammo, or New Saughton, as it used to be called, belonged to the Watsons, and then passed by the marriage of the last of the family to the Earls of Morton. It was sold a few years ago. When the Queen paid her first visit to Scotland in 1842, the young heiress of Saughton rode out at the head of her tenantry to meet her and escort her to Edinburgh. Two years later she became Lady Aberdour, and was mother to the present Lord Morton.

We are now on the Queensferry Road once more, and turning eastwards, with our faces towards Edinburgh, we continue to skirt the wall of Barnton. This place, which now belongs to Sir James Gibson Maitland, is formed of two properties thrown together. The present house was originally Cramond Regis, where there had been a royal hunting-seat. The house was built in 1640 by Sir John Smith of Grotthill, who was Lord Provost of Edinburgh. He sold the place, and it passed through several hands before being bought in the last century by Mr. Ramsay, a banker in Edinburgh. He also bought Barnton. The site of the old house is near the lodge at Davidson's Mains, and not far from where the gardens now are. It belonged in 1507 to Sir Robert Barton, the master-skipper of the _Great Michael_, a famous ship, built by James V. He was afterwards Comptroller of the Exchequer, Lord High Treasurer (1529), and Master of the Mint. In 1580, Barnton was sold to James Elphinston, first Lord Balmerino, in whose family it continued till 1688. The fine pillar sundial that still exists here was put up by the father of the Lord Balmerino of the '45.[66] At the end of the last century, Barnton belonged to Wilhelmina, Lady Glenorchy, to whom it was left by her husband. She spent many years of her pious and blameless life at this place, but in 1786, shortly before her death, she sold it to Mr. Ramsay. He lived here while he was altering and improving the house of Cramond Regis, and when that was finished, the old house of Barnton was pulled down, and its name usurped by its younger rival.

[66] There are two curious sundials at Barnton. One is an obelisk dial, about twelve feet high, dated 1692. The other, of monumental design, was erected by Lord Balmerino.

Mr. Ramsay's grandson was the well-known M. F. H. He was fond of all kinds of sport, and with his friend, Captain Barclay of Urie, horsed and drove the "Defiance" coach to and from Aberdeen. Lanercost, the best horse he ever owned, keeps his memory green on the turf. His only son succeeded him, at whose death Barnton passed to his nearest relations, the Gibson Maitlands. They have preferred living at Sauchie, their own place in Stirlingshire, and Barnton has been let for many years.

We now find ourselves back at Davidson's Mains; but, instead of going straight home to Edinburgh by Blackhall, we turn abruptly to the right, along a quiet country road, which winds along the base of the Corstorphine Hills. About half a mile farther on, we pass the gate of Craigcrook, a pretty little place which seems sheltered from every harsh wind in the lap of these wooded heights. For many years it was the home of Francis, Lord Jeffrey, the critic, the "immortal Jeffrey" of Lord Byron's bitter lines,[67] who settled here in 1815. Over the outer gate of the courtyard there is a stone, with the date 1621, and a shield which bears traces of the arms of the Adamsons, early owners of Craigcrook. In the sixteenth century, William Adamson was one of the largest proprietors on this side of Edinburgh. His property extended from Craigleith to Cammo. He was slain, with his kinsman, Alexander Napier of Merchiston, at the battle of Pinkie in 1547. Craigcrook now forms part of the Strachan Mortification, the lands having been left for charitable purposes by Mr. Strachan, Writer to the Signet, who died in 1719.

[67]

Health to immortal Jeffrey! once in name England could boast a judge almost the same.

_English Bards and Scotch Reviewers._

As we turn again to the right, our attention is attracted by the romantic and fairy-like scene, which is only divided from us by a low wall. A miniature lake lies embosomed in the woods, and on its eastern side rise beetling crags, crowned with Scotch firs. Ivy, in some places, hangs down the face of the cliff, and here and there a dislodged block of stone has given foothold to broom and bramble bushes. Few winds can ruffle that little lake, it lies in so sheltered a spot, and on a sunny afternoon, it smilingly reflects each crevice and ivy-trail in the rocks above it. In the 16th century a quarry was worked here, but many, many years must have passed since the hand of man last profaned this lovely spot, and nature has swept all trace of his work away. It lies in the grounds of Ravelston, a pretty old place, which stands on an eminence to our left. The old house is a little to the west of the present one, and nearer the road. Over the entrance is the inscription, "G. F. _Ne quid nimis_, 1622. J. B." This is probably the date of its erection, and the initials are those of George Foulis, and Janet Bannatyne his wife. The Foulis owned Ravelston for many years. The last of the family took the name of Primrose from his grandmother, the heiress of Dunipace, and was the gallant Sir Archibald Primrose, who suffered for his king at Carlisle, in 1746.[68] His lands were forfeited, but Ravelston had been sold some time before, and had been acquired in 1726 by Mr. Keith, a relation of the Earl Marischal. His grandson, who built the present house, was knighted by George IV. on his visit to this country, and made Knight Marischal of Scotland. A near relationship subsisted between Sir Walter Scott and the Ravelston family, his grandmother, Mrs. Rutherford, and old Mrs. Keith having been sisters;[69] and in his letters and memoir we find constant references to Ravelston. It now belongs to Miss Murray Gartshore, whose father bought it from his nephew, Sir Patrick Keith Murray. The well-known song, "Hark the voice of joy and singing," was written by the late Mrs. Murray Gartshore, who sang beautifully, and wrote several very pretty things. There used to be a beautiful avenue of walnut-trees near the house, but they have all been either cut or blown down.

[68] It was either this Sir Archibald's widow or his mother, that was the Lady Primrose who entertained Flora Macdonald so hospitably in London, during her detention there in 1747, and to whose house in Essex Street, Strand, Prince Charles came during the secret visit he paid to London in 1750. Dr. King, in his _Political and Literary Anecdotes_, gives an account of meeting the Prince at Lady Primrose's.

[69] They were both Swintons of Swinton.

Ravelston brings us almost to the end of our pilgrimage. Either the road straight before us, or that to the right through Murrayfield, will quickly take us back to Edinburgh. Let us linger a few moments before we part, and, turning round, let us climb the steep path that leads over the shoulder of the hill to the village of Corstorphine. As breathless and exhausted we reach the top, we sink gratefully on the seat, which long has been known as "Rest and be thankful," and let our eyes and thoughts stray over the beautiful scene. Before us lies Edinburgh, with its castle and its spires,--beyond is the sea and distant Lammermuirs. Over all the golden light of evening is shining, and the fir-trees throw long shadows at our feet. From this spot we can see most of the places to which our weary steps have wandered in turn; and as we sit here in peace, may the recollections of the past, which I have striven to reawaken, touch each place, as it rises in your memory, with a ray of gold as bright as that which the setting sun throws o'er them now!

The book is completed and closed like the day, And the hand that has written it, lays it away!

INDEX.

A.

Aberdour, Lady, heiress of New Saughton, 162. Abbeyhill, 125. Adamson, William, owned Craigcrook, killed at Pinkie, 164, 165. Almond, The, 135, 160. Angus, Lord, killed at Steinkirk, son of the Marchioness of Douglas, 114. Argyle and Greenwich, John, Duke of, 97, 148, 154.

B.

Baberton, curious old house, inhabited by Charles X. of France, 141. Baird of Newbyth, 54. Baird of Saughton, 141. Ballads-- The Marchioness of Douglas, 110, _note_. The Paddo's Sang, 105, _note_. The Two Brothers, 60, _note_. The Water o' Wearie's Well, 104, _note_. Balm Well at Liberton, 52, 53. Barnbougle, Moubray of, 34, 80, 156. Barnton, 156, 162-164. ---- now joined to Cramond Regis, 163. Battle at the Cat-Stane, 137. ---- at Morton, between the Picts and the Romans, 25, 26. Battle-stone at Comiston, _illustration_, 26. Biblical names in Morningside, 19. Blackford Avenue, 44, 46. Blackford Hill, now a public park, 49, 50. Blackford House, description of, by Sir T. Dick Lauder, 47, 48. Bonally, 30. Bore-stone, where the Royal Standard was planted by James IV. in 1513, 39. Boroughmuir, extent of, 16, 17, 22. ---- James IV. mustered his army there in 1513, 17, 39. Bothwell, James, Earl of, signed the bond at Craigmillar, 86. ---- ---- seized Queen Mary by the Bridge of Almond, 138. Bothwell, Francis, Earl of, 92, _note_, 123. Braehead, on the Almond, 160. ---- granted by James V. to John Howieson, 160-162. Braid Burn, 20, 71, 97. Braid, Hermitage of, 19-21. Braid, Hills of, 16, 23. ---- view from, 22. Brand of Brandfield, 144. Brounisfield, _see_ Bruntisfield, 10-16. Brede, Fairlie of, _see_ Fairlie, 20. Brown of Gorgie, also owners of Braid, 20. Bruntfield, Adam, duel with James Carmichael, 106, 107. Bruntfield, Stephen, Captain of Tantallon, killed by James Carmichael, 106. Bruntisfield, 10-16. ---- description of house, 10. ---- Lauders, earliest owners of, 11. ---- sold to John Fairlie 1603, 11. ---- sold to George Warrender 1695, 12. ---- ghost-room discovered, 14, 15. ---- curious tombstone in the park, 15. ---- verses on, 13, 14, _note_. ---- _illustrations_ of, frontispiece, 12. Bruntisfield Links, 16, 39. Buckstone, tenure of Penicuik, 22. Burdiehouse, caves at, 53. ---- derivation of name, 53.

C.

Canaan Lane, 19. Canaan Lodge, belonged to Dr. Gregory, 19. Cambusnethan, Lairds of, younger branch of the Somerville family, 66-69. Cambusnethan, Lairds of, held Goodtrees for fourscore years, 66-69. Cameron, The, 75, 76. Cameron Toll, 75. Cammo, formerly New Saughton, 162, 165. Carmichael, James, murdered Stephen Bruntfield, 106. ---- ---- killed in a duel by Adam Bruntfield, 107. Carmichael, Katherine, the beautiful wife of John, third Laird of Cambusnethan, 66, _note_. Caroline Park, originally Roystoun, 148-155. ---- ---- built by George, Lord Tarbat, 148. ---- ---- description of, 148-150. ---- ---- garden of, 153. ---- ---- gates of hammered iron now at Gogar, 138, 152, 153. ---- ---- Green Ladye's Well, 151. ---- ---- plague-stricken crew buried in the park, 151, 152. ---- ---- _illustrations_ of, 149, 153. Cat-Stane, 135-138. ---- ancient battle fought here, 137. ---- Queen Mary seized here by Bothwell and hurried to Dunbar, 138. ---- _illustration_, 136. Chapman, Walter, first Edinburgh printer, granted Priestfield by James IV., 75. Charles I., present at John Wauchope's christening, 89. ---- ---- slept at Niddrie, 96. Charles, Prince, encamped at Duddingston, 93, 98. ---- ---- interview with the young Laird of Niddrie, 93. ---- ---- given breakfast by Lucky Brown, 94. ---- ---- visited the Grange, 45. ---- ---- his courtesy to Lord Somerville, 64, 65. Charles X. of France lived at Baberton, 141. Chopin, the composer, at Cramond House, 159. Chiesly of Dalry, 142-144. ---- John, shot the Lord President, Sir George Lockhart, 142, 143. Clerk of Penicuik, their tenure of the barony, 22. ---- ---- Sir John, learned antiquary, 25. Clermiston Lee, 127. Coal-miners at Niddrie, formerly serfs, 95. Cockburn, Lord, built Bonally in 1845, 30. Colinton, 30, 31. Comely Bank, 145, 146. Comiston, 23, 24. Convent of St. Margaret, 17. ---- ---- St. Mary of Placentia, 18. ---- ---- St. Catherine of Sienna, 17, 18, 46. Corstorphine, 127-135, 167. ---- altar tombs at, 130, 131, _illustration_, 130. ---- collegiate church, 128-131. ---- Lords Forester of, 72, 127-134, 155, 156. ---- Loch of, 32, 131. ---- murder of Lord Forester by Mrs. Nimmo, 130. Craigentinnie, formerly owned by Nisbets, 119. ---- added to by Mr. William Miller, 117, 119. ---- tomb at, 116, 117. Craigcrook, 164, 165. ---- inhabited by Francis, Lord Jeffrey, 164. Craighouse, curious old house, 34-36. ---- abduction thither of Isabel Hutcheon by John Kincaid, 35. ---- Sir William Dick, owner of, 35, 36. ---- Kincaids, previous owners, 35. Craiglockhart, 31, 32, 33, 34. ---- ---- _illustration_, 32. Craigmillar Castle, 80-87. ---- ---- burned and plundered by the English in 1554, 80. ---- ---- bought in 1660 by Sir John Gilmour, 84, 86, 87. ---- ---- James V. lived here as a boy, 85. ---- ---- Earl of Mar's imprisonment, 84. ---- ---- Prestons, owners of, from 1374-1660, 83, 84. ---- ---- Queen Mary's stay here, 85-87. ---- ---- St. Leger winner of 1875 named after castle, 87. ---- ---- _illustration_ of, 81. Cramond Bridge, James V. attacked here, 160. ---- ---- old and new bridge, 162. Cramond House, _alias_ Nether Cramond or Bishop's Cramond, 159, 160. ---- ---- Chopin stayed here, 159, 160. ---- ---- ancient sundial, 160. Cramond Regis or King's Cramond, now Barnton, 163, 164. Cromwell's siege of Redhall, 31.

D.

Dalry, 142-144. ---- Chiesly of, 142-144. Dalzell, Colonel, concerned in the story of Lady Stair, 21. Davidson's Mains, formerly Muttonhole, 155, 163, 164. Davidson of Muirhouse, 141, 155. Dick, owners of Braid, Craighouse, and the Grange, 12, 20, 35, 45. ---- Sir James bought Priestfield and changed its name to Prestonfield, 76, 97. ---- Sir William, his riches and melancholy end, 35, 36, 45. Dick Cunyngham of Prestonfield, 76. Douglas, Marchioness of, ballad on, 110, _note_. ---- ---- real story of, 110-114. Drum, The, 58-66. ---- ---- built by Hugh, eighth Lord Somerville, in 1584, 58. ---- ---- burnt and rebuilt, 63. ---- ---- attacked by Highlanders in 1745, 64, 65. ---- ---- scene of the Somerville tragedy, 58-63. Drumselch, ancient forest of, 16, 58. Drylaw, 155. Duddingston House, 96, 97. ---- loch, _illustration_, 99. ---- village, 98-103, 115. ---- jougs at, 98. ---- Robert Monteith, minister of, 101-103. ---- John Thomson, the painter, minister of, 103. ---- Prince Charles encamped here, 98. Dunbar, his "Lament of the Makaris," 128.

E.

Edgar family, built Peffer Mill, and their arms, 78. Edmonstone, 87-89. ---- encounter here between the Wyse Wyfe of Keyth and the Devil, 88, 89. Egypt, Farm of, 19. Elphinstone, Lords Balmerino owned Barnton, 163. ---- owned Restalrig, 124. Elve's Kirk, in the Park of Morton Hall, 23. Erskine, Lady Elizabeth, wife of the second Lord Napier, 38.

F.

Fairlie of Brede, and their arms, 20, and _note_. Fairlie of Bruntisfield, and their arms, 11, and _note_, 12. Fairmilehead, prehistoric remains, 24. Fettes College, 145, 146. Figgate Muir, 117, 118. Fishwives' Causeway near Portobello, 118. Forester of Corstorphine, 127-134. ---- owned the Inch and part of Liberton, 72. ---- owned Drylaw and Lauriston, 155, 156. Foulis of Ravelston, 165. Foulis of Colinton, 30, 31. Franklin, Benjamin, his lines on Prestonfield, 76.

G.

Gillis, Dr., Roman Catholic Bishop of Edinburgh, 17. Gilmerton, 54. ---- Grange, or Burndale, its tragic story, 54-58. Gilmour family, 51, 70-73, 79, 84, 86, 87. Glenorchy, Lady, lived at Barnton, 163. Gogar Burn, 135, 138. Gogar House, its hammered iron gates, 138. Goodtrees, or Gutters, now Moredun, 66-69. ---- the Somerville lawsuit concerning it, 66-69. Gordon of Cluny, 20, 36. ---- Miss Jacky, afterwards Lady Stair, 20, 21. Gorgie, 20, 142. Gowrie Conspiracy, 37, 123, 124. Grange, Lady, her unhappy fate, 144. Granton Castle, 154. "Green Ladye," at Caroline Park, 151, 152.

H.

Haddington, Earls of, 75, 101, _note_. Half-hangit Maggie Dickson, 79. Haltoun, now Hatton, belonged to the Lauder family, 11, 139. ---- rebuilt by Charles, fourth Earl of Lauderdale, 139. Haltoun, now Hatton, story of the witch and the harriers, 140, 141. Hamilton of Priestfield, 31, 75, 101, 102. ---- Lady, Anne Hepburn, a famous beauty, her intrigue with Robert Monteith, 101, 102. Hay of Restalrig, Prince Charles's secretary, 122. Hepburn, Lady Janet, widow of George, fourth Lord Seton, 18. Hepburn of Waughton, Sir Patrick, father of Lady Hamilton, 101, _note_. Heron, or Herring, Sir John, murder committed by, 55-58. ---- Giles, marries Sir Walter Somerville, 57. Home, John, author of "Douglas," 17, 18. Hope, Sir Thomas of Craighill, lived at Granton Castle, 154. Howden Glen, 28. Howieson, John, saves James V.'s life at Cramond Bridge, 160-162. Howieson Crawfurd family, still possess Braehead, 160. Hunter's Tryst, 27. Hutcheon, Isabel, her abduction by John Kincaid, 35.

I.

Inch, The, 51, 70-73. ---- _illustration_, 71. James II. grants Bruntisfield to his Consort, 11. James III. erects Collegiate Church at Restalrig, 121. James IV. grants Bruntisfield to Sir Alexander Lauder, 11. ---- musters his army on the Boroughmuir, 15, 39, 43, _note_. James V., early days at Craigmillar, 85. ---- builds the chapel at the Bridgend, 51, 73, 85. ---- adventure at Cramond Bridge, 160-162. James VI. punishes John Kincaid for his abduction of Isabel Hutcheon, 35. James VII. gave permission to Sir John Gilmour to build a chapel at Craigmillar, 86. Jeffrey, Francis, Lord, the famous critic, 164. Jenny Traill, the ghost at Niddrie, 96. Jock's Lodge, 114, 116. Johnstone of Hilton, Miss Sophy, "Aunt Soph," 95. Jougs still existing at Duddingston, 98. Jordan, The, 19.

K.

Keith of Ravelston, 166. Kincaid of Craighouse, 35. Kincaid of Warriston, murdered by his wife, 146-148. Kingston Grange, formerly Sunnyside, 70. Kirkliston, 135.

L.

Lauderdale, Charles, fourth Earl of, married Elizabeth Lauder, heiress of Haltoun, 12, 139. ---- eighth Earl, sells Haltoun, 140. Lauderdale, Duke of, left Duddingston to his wife, 97. Lauder of Haltoun, first possessors of Bruntisfield, 10, 11. ---- arms of, 139, _note_. Lauder, Sir Thomas Dick, owner of the Grange, 45. ---- the late Sir Thomas Dick Lauder's description of Blackford House, 47, 48. Law of Lauriston, the famous financier, 157, 158. ---- ---- French descendants of the family, 158. ---- ---- arms of, 158, _note_. Lauriston Castle, 156-158, 160. ---- carved stone at, _illustration_, 156. Lee, the Royal Academician, helps to discover secret room at Bruntisfield, 14. Leith, Water of, 141. Lestalric, old name for Restalrig, _q. v._, 120-125. Liberton, 21, 50-52. ---- owned by the Littles, 51. ---- derivation of name, 50. ---- subordinate chapels, 50. ---- Tower, _illustration_, 51. Little of Liberton, 51, 72, 73. Lloyd, Mr., lines written by, 75. Lochend, 123, _illustration_, 123. Logan of Restalrig, 20, 37, 122-124. ---- arms of, 124, _note_. ---- Robert Logan, concerned in the Gowrie conspiracy, 37, 123. ---- his bond with John Napier, 37. Lowrie of Blackwood, his false accusation of the Marchioness of Douglas, 114. Lucky Brown, her loyalty, 94, 95.

M.

Macrae, Captain, his duel with Sir George Ramsay, 122, 123. Maitland, _see_ Lauderdale. ---- Lady Julian, 12. ---- John, afterwards the Chancellor; his advice to Lord Somerville, 67, 68. ---- Janet, Lady Somerville, 68. Malloch or Mallet, David, the poet, 28, 29. Mar, John, Earl of, imprisoned at Craigmillar, 84. Marionville, called in derision Lappet Ha', 122. Mary, Queen, at Craigmillar, 85-87. ---- married to Darnley by the Dean of Restalrig, 121. ---- seized by Bothwell near the Cat-Stane, 138. ---- roads made by, 118. ---- tree planted by, 87. Meggetland, 33. Mentet de Salmonet, _see_ Robert Monteith, 102. Merchiston Castle, 36-39. Miller, William, of Craigentinnie, 116, 117, 119. ---- his tomb, 116. Monteith, Robert, minister of Duddingston, his romantic story, 101-103. ---- became secretary to Cardinal de Retz, 102. Montrose, the heart of, 38, 39. Morton, prehistoric remains at, 25. Morton Hall, 22-24. Moredun, formerly Goodtrees or Gutters, 66-69. Moubray of Barnbougle, 34, 80, 156. Muirhouse, or The Murrows, 155. Munro, Dr., anecdote of, 33, _note_. Murray, Katherine, second wife of the Laird of Cambusnethan, 66, 67. Murrayfield, 127, 167. Muschat's Cairn, murder at, 114, 115. Muttonhole, now Davidson's Mains, 155, 156. Myreside, 33.

N.

Napier of Merchiston, 36-39, 156, 165. ---- arms of, 42. ---- John, the inventor of logarithms, 36-38. ---- Lady, wife of the second Lord, 38. ---- Sir Alexander, his Celestial Theme, 156. Napier of Wryteshouses, 16, 42. ---- arms of, 42. Nether Cramond, or Cramond House, 159. Nether Liberton, 72. Newbattle Abbey, intrigues of two of the monks, 55-58. Niddrie Marischal, 90-96. ---- origin of name, 90, _note_. ---- ghost at, 96. ---- chapel at, 50, 92. Nimmo, Mrs., murders Lord Forester, 132, 133. ---- ---- her execution, 134. Nisbet of Craigentinnie, 119.

O.

Oliphant of Newton, Sir James, killed his mother, 155. Otterburn of Redford, 83. Otterburn of Redhall, their arms, 31, 32, _note_.

P.

Paddo's Sang, The, 105, _note_. Parson's Green, 115. Paterson, George, curious cave excavated by him near Moredun, 69, 70. Pearson of Balmadies, their arms, 78, and _note_. Peffer Mill, original of "Dumbiedykes," 78. ---- story of Half-hangit Maggie Dickson, 79. ---- doorway at, _illustration_, 78. Penicuik, tenure of barony, 22. Penny Well, 46. Petty France, 87. Piershill, 98, 116. Pleasance, The, 18. Portobello, 75, 118. ---- pottery made here, 118. Prestonfield, formerly Priestfield, 75-78. ---- ghost-story, 77, 78. Preston of Craigmillar, 75, 83, 84. ---- arms of, 83. Primrose, Sir Archibald, 166. ---- Lady, entertained Flora Macdonald, 166.

Q.

Queen's Park, The, 103, 109-115. Queensferry Road, 145, 162.

R.

Ramsay of Barnton, 139, 163, 164. Ramsay, Allan, Author of "The Gentle Shepherd," 27, _note_. Ravelston, 165, 166. Redford Burn, 28. Redford House, 29. Redhall, besieged by the Coldstream Guards, 31. Restalrig, formerly Lestalric, 120-124. ---- church of, 121, 122. ---- castle of the Logans, 123. Rigg of Morton, 24. Rigg of Riggsland, 12. Robertson, Principal, the historian, 17, 45. Robertson of Lawers, General, 40. Rowll, Provost of Corstorphine, an early Scotch poet, 128, 129. Roystoun, now Caroline Park, 148-155.

S.