Category: Travel Writing

Vikings of to-day

It is said that a recent trial, over a dispute about the fishery of a small natural harbour in Labrador, called Tub Harbour, had reached its third day, when his lordship, leaning over the desk, whispered to counsel, “Where is Labrador”? Not to be caught, however, the counsel w...

Chapters

1. CHAPTER XVII.

2. CHAPTER I

It is said that a recent trial, over a dispute about the fishery of a small natural harbour in Labrador, called Tub Harbour, had reached its third day, when his lordship, leanin...

3. CHAPTER II

Labrador rocks are of the oldest formation (Laurentian gneiss), and destitute of remains of animal or plant life; so that they, too, maintain the general harmony of desolation....

4. CHAPTER III

Herrings were once in great numbers on the coast, and were so much larger and fatter than our English herring, that at times knaves have found it worth while to imitate the “Lab...

5. CHAPTER IV

For food purposes among land animals the caribou, which closely resembles the reindeer, ranks first. These roam over the interior in great quantities, feeding on the very plenti...

6. CHAPTER V

ON June 15, 1892, the good ship _Albert_, 97 tons register, and 151 displacement, was towed out of Great Yarmouth Harbour, and amidst many farewells from wharves, quays and pier...

7. CHAPTER VI

Do people live in Labrador? There is a resident white population of some 5,000 at least, scattered along the south and east coasts. They call themselves “Livyeres.” North of the...

8. CHAPTER VII

Cod (Gadus) = goad or rod fish—called in Norway stick or stock fish, or in Spanish “baccalhao,” in Italian “mazza,” a club or rod—all of which synonyms imply that a rod or stick...

9. CHAPTER VIII

Cod alone is fish in Labrador diction. Cod is the coin of the realm. Money is scarcely known, and no other medium of exchange is used by the people, whose _raison d’être_ almost...

10. CHAPTER IX

November, 1892, saw the _Albert_ once more in St. Johns Harbour, after having spent seventy-eight days on the coast. She had visited many harbours, treated 900 patients, distrib...

11. CHAPTER X

On Friday, July 7th, with a steward, an engineer, and Dr. Bobardt as my companion, the _Princess May_ left St. Johns for Labrador, the _Albert_ having left the previous day. It...

12. CHAPTER XI

On our arrival in a harbour our method was, as last year, to hoist our blue flag to announce our arrival, to then visit any seriously sick I could hear of, after which we had ev...

13. CHAPTER XII

Our next meeting with the _Albert_ was arranged for Hopedale, the first station of the Moravian brethren. In the meanwhile we visited such harbours as Ironbound Island, Ragged I...

14. CHAPTER XIII

THE Esquimaux dog, unlike his Newfoundland congener, is by no means a fiction, being an ubiquitous feature of Esquimaux life. Indeed, being musical like his master, his propensi...

15. CHAPTER XIV

The hair seal, locally “swile,” affords to the Newfoundland fisherman almost the only means of work in winter which will help him to eke out the meagre living provided by his La...

16. CHAPTER XV

It was a still moonlight night, and the _Albert_ lay at anchor in one of those numberless creeks in which the venturous fishermen hide away their schooners, while in their small...

17. CHAPTER XVI

Some 18,000 people cluster around the shores of Trinity Bay, their scattered villages and fishing hamlets nestling on its creeks and coves. It was in February. The Ice King had...

18. CHAPTER XVII

In November, 1893, Dr. Bobardt and myself visited Canada, with the hope of getting help for our work, seeing that some Canadians would at least benefit by it. In Halifax, Montre...