Category: Travel Writing

Views A-foot; Or, Europe Seen with Knapsack and Staff

The book which follows, requires little or no introduction. It tells its own story, and tells it well. The interest in it, which induces the writer of this preface to be its usher to the public, is simply that of his having chanced to be among the first appreciators of the aut...

Chapters

23. Chapter 23

_May 31._--I have at last seen the thousand wonders of this great capital--this German Paris--this connecting link between the civilization of Europe and the barbaric magnificen...

41. Chapter 41

_Dec. 29._--One day's walk through Rome--how shall I describe it? The Capitol, the Forum, St. Peter's, the Coliseum--what few hours' ramble ever took in places so hallowed by po...

27. Chapter 27

_June 14._--I thought I had seen every thing in Vienna that could excite admiration or gratify fancy; here I have my former sensations to live over again, in an augmented degree...

44. Chapter 44

We left Marseilles about nine o'clock, on a dull, rainy morning, for Avignon and the Rhone, intending to take in our way the glen of Vaucluse. The dirty _faubourgs_ stretch out...

35. Chapter 35

_Sept. 11._--Our situation here is as agreeable as we could well desire. We have three large and handsomely furnished rooms, in the centre of the city, for which we pay Signor L...

37. Chapter 37

_October 16._--My cousin, being anxious to visit Rome, and reach Heidelberg before the commencement of the winter semestre, set out towards the end of September, on foot. We acc...

18. Chapter 18

On taking leave of Carl at the gate over the Göttingen road, I felt tempted to bestow a malediction upon traveling, from its merciless breaking of all links, as soon as formed....

31. Chapter 31

Leaving Amstegg, I passed the whole day among snowy, sky-piercing Alps, torrents, chasms and clouds! The clouds appeared to be breaking up as we set out, and the white top of th...

40. Chapter 40

_Valley of the Arno, Dec 22._--It is a glorious morning after our two days' walk, through rain and mud, among these stormy Appenines. The range of high peaks, among which is the...

34. Chapter 34

Have you ever seen some grand painting of a city, rising with its domes and towers and palaces from the edge of a glorious bay, shut in by mountains--the whole scene clad in tho...

4. Chapter 4

The steamboat Londonderry called the next day at Port Rush, and we left in her for Greenock. We ran down the Irish coast, past Dunluce Castle and the Causeway; the Giant's organ...

15. Chapter 15

After New Year, the Main, just above the city, and the lakes in the promenades, were frozen over. The ice was tried by the police, and having been found of sufficient thickness,...

26. Chapter 26

It was nearly dark when we came to the end of the plain and looked on the city at our feet and the lovely lake that lost itself in the mountains before us. We were early on boar...

30. Chapter 30

We left Schaffhausen for Zurich, in mist and rain, and walked for some time along the north bank of the Rhine. We could have enjoyed the scenery much better, had it not been for...

6. Chapter 6

We left Glasgow on the morning after returning from the Burns Festival, taking passage in the open cars for Edinburg, for six shillings. On leaving the depot, we plunged into th...

49. Chapter 49

We slid out of St. Katharine's Dock at noon on the appointed day, and with a pair of sooty steamboats hitched to our vessel, moved slowly down the Thames in mist and drizzling r...

19. Chapter 19

_Leipsic, May 8._--I have now been nearly two days in this wide-famed city, and the more I see of it the better I like it. It is a pleasant, friendly town, old enough to be inte...

10. Chapter 10

_Sept. 30._--There is so much to be seen around this beautiful place, that I scarcely know where to begin a description of it. I have been wandering among the wild paths that le...

20. Chapter 20

After four days' sojourn in Dresden we shouldered our knapsacks, not to be laid down again till we reached Prague. We were elated with the prospect of getting among the hills ag...

28. Chapter 28

We left Munich in the morning train for Augsburg. Between the two cities extends a vast unbroken plain, exceedingly barren and monotonous. Here and there is a little scrubby woo...

12. Chapter 12

_Dec. 4._--This is a genuine old German city. Founded by Charlemagne, afterwards a rallying point of the Crusaders, and for a long time the capital of the German empire, it has...

29. Chapter 29

_Frankfort, July 29, 1845._--It would be ingratitude towards the old city in which I have passed so many pleasant and profitable hours, to leave it, perhaps forever, without a f...

39. Chapter 39

_Nov. 9._--A few days ago I received a letter from my cousin at Heidelberg, describing his solitary walk from Genoa over the Alps, and through the western part of Switzerland. T...

7. Chapter 7

In the course of time we came to anchor in the stream; skiffs from the shore pulled alongside, and after some little quarrelling, we were safely deposited in one, with a party w...

48. Chapter 48

My circumstances, on arriving at London, were again very reduced. A franc and a half constituted the whole of my funds. This, joined to the knowledge of London expenses, rendere...

42. Chapter 42

_Jan. 9._--A few days ago we returned from an excursion to Tivoli, one of the loveliest spots in Italy. We left the Eternal City by the Gate of San Lorenzo, and twenty minutes w...

22. Chapter 22

Our road the first two days after leaving Prague led across broad, elevated plains, across which a cold wind came direct from the summits of the Riesengebirge, far to our left....

38. Chapter 38

I have seen Ibrahim Pacha, the son of old Mehemet Ali, driving in his carriage through the streets. He is hero on a visit from Lucca, where he has been spending some time on acc...

46. Chapter 46

What a gay little world in miniature this is! I wonder not that the French, with their exuberant gaiety of spirit, should revel in its ceaseless tides of pleasure, as if it were...

36. Chapter 36

A pilgrimage to Vallombrosa!--in sooth it has a romantic sound. The phrase calls up images of rosaries, and crosses, and shaven-headed friars. Had we lived in the olden days, su...

24. Chapter 24

We passed out of Vienna in the face of one of the strongest winds it was ever my lot to encounter. It swept across the plain with such force that it was almost impossible to adv...

2. Chapter 2

An enthusiastic desire of visiting the Old World haunted me from early childhood. I cherished a presentiment, amounting almost to belief, that I should one day behold the scenes...

43. Chapter 43

_Palo._--The sea is breaking in long swells below the window, and a glorious planet shines in the place of the sunset that has died away. This is our first resting-place since l...

5. Chapter 5

We passed a glorious summer morning on the banks of Loch Katrine. The air was pure, fresh and balmy, and the warm sunshine glowed upon forest and lake, upon dark crag and purple...

8. Chapter 8

_Bruges._--On the Continent at last! How strangely look the century-old towers, antique monuments, and quaint, narrow streets of the Flemish cities! It is an agreeable and yet a...

45. Chapter 45

_Paris, Feb. 6, 1840._--Every letter of the date is traced with an emotion of joy, for our dreary journey is over. There was a magic in the name that revived us during a long jo...

13. Chapter 13

Receiving a letter from my cousin one bright December morning, the idea of visiting him struck me, and so, within an hour, B---- and I were on our way to Heidelberg. It was deli...

17. Chapter 17

The day for leaving Frankfort came at last, and I bade adieu to the gloomy, antique, but still quaint and pleasant city. I felt like leaving a second home, so much had the memor...

9. Chapter 9

HEIDELBERG, August 30. Here at last! and a most glorious place it is. This is our first morning in our new rooms, and the sun streams warmly in the eastern windows, as I write,...

11. Chapter 11

B---- and I are now comfortably settled in Frankfort, having, with Mr. Willis's kind assistance, obtained lodgings with the amiable family, with whom he has resided for more tha...

21. Chapter 21

_Prague._--I feel as if out of the world, in this strange, fantastic, yet beautiful old city. We have been rambling all morning through its winding streets, stopping sometimes a...

33. Chapter 33

It was finally decided we should leave Milan, so the next morning we arose at five o'clock for the first time since leaving Frankfort. The Italians had commenced operations at t...

16. Chapter 16

It is now a luxury to breathe. These spring days are the perfection of delightful weather. Imagine the delicious temperature of our Indian summer joined to the life and freshnes...

3. Chapter 3

On calling at the steamboat office in Liverpool, to take passage to Port Rush, we found that the fare in the fore cabin was but two shillings and a half, while in the chief cabi...

32. Chapter 32

_Aug. 21._--While finding our way at random to the "Pension Suisse," whither we had been directed by a German gentleman, we were agreeably impressed with the gaiety and bustle o...

14. Chapter 14

_Jan. 2, 1845._--I have lately been computing how much my travels have cost me up to the present time, and how long I can remain abroad to continue the pilgrimage, with my prese...

47. Chapter 47

After a residence of five weeks, which, in spite of some few troubles, passed away quickly and delightfully, I turned my back on Paris. It was not regret I experienced on taking...

1. Chapter 1

The book which follows, requires little or no introduction. It tells its own story, and tells it well. The interest in it, which induces the writer of this preface to be its ush...

25. Chapter 25

Ha! spears on Gmunden's meadows green, And banners on the wood-crowned height! Rank after rank, their helmets' sheen Sends back the morning light! Where late the mountain maiden...