Part 10

_Town whose persistent loyally to France never faltered during a captivity of 48 years;_

_Rich in a past glorious and without stain, unsullied by her misfortunes, exposed for centuries to the covetousness of a near enemy, she has richly deserved to be honoured because she has suffered so long._

_She symbolises, in her deep affection for her Mother country, Lorraine, at last wholly restored as a French province._

VISIT TO METZ

=The Place d'Armes.=

The =Place d'Armes=, on to which the Cathedral and the Hôtel de Ville look, is adorned with fine buildings. On this site the cloister of the Cathedral, the musicians' quarters, several chapels and private houses used to stand.

In 1753 the Marshal de Belle-Isle, governor, decided that a "Place" should be made on this spot and that a West door giving access from the Cathedral to the Place should be constructed.

The plans of the architect Blondel necessitated a lowering of the ground level.

For months and years the canons and sheriffs set themselves against the work or held it up. During the night of August 9th 1755, M. de Belle-Isle called together the garrison and by the light of torches, had the whole work completed: by the morning the excavations were finished.

On the PLACE D'ARMES the statue of Marshal Fabert, by Etex (1840), stands between military trophies.

The statue of the great Metz captain (1599-1662) who was governor of Sedan, has only the following words as his inscription:

"If, to prevent a place which the king has entrusted to me falling into the enemy's hands, I had to throw myself, my family, and all my possessions into the breach, I would not hesitate for a moment to do so".

Marshal Fabert, who was as clever an administrator as he was a magnificent soldier, restored agriculture and commerce in Champagne, and established at Sedan the manufacture of broadcloth, which till then belonged to Flanders and the Pays-Bas. King Louis XIV held him in very high esteem.

THE CATHEDRAL

_All one side of the Place d'Armes_ is occupied by the CATHEDRAL SAINT-ÉTIENNE, a masterpiece of the pointed style. The fabric recalls Amiens and Beauvais. If from the outside it may seem curtailed, the interior (121 m. long, 22 wide and 43 high), with its resplendent stained windows, is vast and altogether beautiful.

The most ancient parts of the cathedral do not date back beyond the 13th century.

The nave has eight bays--it was completed in the 14th century; at the top of the fourth bay it is flanked by two square towers.

The north tower is the tower of the Mutte, so called from the municipal bell hung there. It is topped with a beautiful spire which forms an excellent observation post over the surrounding country.

Here was the post of the look-out man who had to report fires. On the other side of the nave rises the tower of the Chapter which was finished in 1839. A monumental door opens at the base of each of these towers.

Another tower, polygonal and smaller, called the Tour de l'Horloge, is added to the south aisle. On each side of the choir, where the branches of the transept meet, rise the two small towers of Charlemagne, so called in memory of those which stood in the Roman building. They lead by spiral staircases to the outside terraces which run along the cathedral.

While the nave is 13th century, the transept dates from the 15th, and the choir, built over a huge sepulchral crypt, is contemporaneous with the last period of Gothic art.

Although completed in 1546, the Cathedral had still to undergo numerous modifications. Fires caused repairs to be made and then in 1753, by the Governor's orders, Marshal de Belle-Isle, the making of a "Place" in front of the cathedral necessitated the demolition of the Bishop's quarters and the construction of a west door.

The ground level was lowered from 8 to 9 feet and the architect J. B. Blondel was instructed to make out elaborate plans.

They were worked out from 1761 to 1764 and were at once put into execution and continued with till 1771. While endeavouring to have regard to the ancient structure, Blondel strove not to make a west door to the Cathedral but rather to create in front of the cathedral an independent door, the classic lines of which would blend happily with the buildings of the "Place" but would contrast with the style of the edifice (_See page 174_).

In 1791 other alterations were made: following the plans of Gardeur-Lebrun the rood-loft was done away with, and likewise the ancient altars and the vaults. Finally the roof which was burnt on the night of May 6-7th 1877--the day of the entry of William I into Metz--was replaced in 1880-1882 by a copper roof, raised several metres.

The Doric fore-part of Blondel's design was pulled down in 1903 by the Germans, to make way for a west door conceived in the style of the rest of the church. It was not, however, a very happy effort. At the corners were sculptured statues of the prophets. One of these statues, that of Daniel, had the face of William II. The inhabitants of Metz, who had always resented the presence of this effigy at the entrance to their Cathedral, before the arrival of the French troops, fastened to its hands a chain from which hung a small board bearing the words: SIC TRANSIT GLORIA MUNDI.

It will be replaced by a work of Hanaux, a sculptor of Metz, who was responsible for the French monument of Noisseville.

There is no church which has so much space open to the light. In the transept and choir it has been calculated that there are 4,071 square metres of window and it is no exaggeration to say that the whole structure is like a huge stained-glass window.

Some of these windows date back to the 13th century. The large rose-window, at the bottom of the nave, which dates from the 16th century, is the work of the master glass worker Hermann. The windows of the north transept date from the 15th century. Those of the south transept, of the choir and the apse, are 16th century.

The bell named "=La Mutte=", which is in the tower of the same name, did not belong to the church but to the town. The existing bell, which is rung on all great occasions, was cast in 1505. It weighs 13,000 kilos, so that when it is put in motion, a perceptible swaying can be fell in the large spire and in the small spires. It bears the following inscription:

Dame Mutte suis baptisée, De par la Cité ci-posée Pour servir à la Cité Aux jours de grandes solennités; Et aussi pour crier justice, Prendre ban de bonne police; Les contredire quand bon me semble Et pour convoquer gens ensemble.

From the top of the Cathedral tower the best general view is obtainable of Metz and the country round. One can realise the importance of its forts round which the Moselle seems to be an immense moat. On the left bank, the hills fall sheer and are a natural defence: on the right, the hills are not so high but are strengthened by a line of forts. Likewise, by seeing them glistening in the distance, a better idea is gained of the many streams which encompass or pass through Metz: _the Seille and the stream of Saint-Pierre, the stream of Noisseville, the stream of Châtel-Saint-Germain--the Moselle_ which the canal doubles and which is itself divided, forming in front of Metz the large island _Saint-Symphorien_, then, near the dam called Wadrineau, the smaller island of _Saulcy_. At the foot of old Metz flows yet another branch of the Moselle which divides in two to isolate on an island the PRÉFECTURE and the THEATRE. Beyond is the large island CHAMBIÈRE, recognisable by its drill ground and its cemeteries.

=The Hôtel de Ville.=

_After leaving the Cathedral_, THE HÔTEL DE VILLE _is also to be found in the Place d'Armes._ It was started in 1766 and finished in 1771. Its style is simple, the façade being ornamented with two pediments and fine grilles. A porch leads to a beautiful staircase. Opposite the stairs is to be seen a bas-relief in white marble on which are engraved the famous line of Ausonius:

_"Salve magna parens frugumque virumque Mosella" ..._ _Hail, Moselle, illustrious mother of crops and men!_

Inside there are vast banqueting halls where the public sessions of the Academy are held. The Academy of Metz was founded in 1760 by Marshal de Belle-Isle under the title of Royal Society of Letters, Sciences and Arts and endowed with a sum of £60,000.

It was suppressed at the Revolution and re-formed on March 14th, 1819 with the motto "l'Utile" and obtained from Charles X, on September 5th 1828, the title of Royal Academy. It consists of 36 titular members and 18 resident members, in addition to 4 honorary members, correspondents and associates.

The Academy has been largely instrumental in maintaining French culture in Lorraine during the years of annexation.

On the grand staircase are to be seen three stained-glass windows put up in 1582: the middle one is the Duc de Guise after the siege of Metz; the right, the Metz bishop Bertram; the left, the sheriff Pierre Baudoche.

The flag which floats on its façade is the one previously used in 1870. Carefully preserved in the Carnavalet Museum at Paris, it was returned to the Mayor by the vice-president of the Paris municipal council on December 25th, 1918.

_On leaving the Hôtel de Ville, take, to the left of the Place d'Armes, the Rue Fabert (see, on left, the statue of the Virgin), then the Rue des Clercs which is a continuation of it. Coming to the bottom of the Rue des Clercs, on the left is the Place de la République, and on the right the Esplanade._

The magnificent space of =the Esplanade= was used as a parade ground for the garrison troops.

Ney, Duc d'Elchingen, prince of the Moskwa, was born at Sarrelouis. He is depicted with his rifle in his hand, ready to fire (_Photo p. 181_).

_Next, go to the end of the Esplanade, beyond the music kiosk, on the terrace_: there is a magnificent view over Saint-Quentin Hill and Fort, Plappeville fort and the Moselle. The ISLAND OF SAULCY and POUDRIÈRE exactly opposite will also be seen.

On this terrace used to stand the bronze statue of William I on horseback (1892). The inscription on the pedestal used to state that the statue had been erected to the Emperor "by his grateful people". The conqueror pointed with his finger to Moselle and the powerful forts of Plappeville and Saint-Quentin which protect the town. William I was knocked down headlong some days before the entry of the French (_Photo opposite_).

In place of William, a statue "to the victorious poilu" was erected during the night of January 6-7th with the inscription: "We've beaten them". This was done as a pleasant surprise for Marshal Pétain who was coming on the following day to present colours to 16 regiments, and to confer decorations on several officers and men. This statue was made in seven days in a workshop of Metz by the sculptor Bouchard.

The PALAIS DE JUSTICE, built in 1776, _looks out on to the Esplanade_. On its site formerly rose the Hôtel de la Haute-Pierre, which belonged to the Duke of Suffolk, lover of Queen Mary of England. He had it pulled down, and built, in a year and six months, the beautiful "Hôtel de Suffolk", which for a long while was used as the town hall. Finally, in 1776, Clairisseaux built the existing palace. _The following should be seen_: the iron banisters of the great staircase, and, in the interior court, two bas-reliefs, one commemorating the humanity of the Duc de Guise in assisting the soldiers of the Duc d'Albe after the siege had been raised; the other commemorating the peace of 1783 concluded between England, France, Spain, United States of America and Holland. Behind the Palais de Justice stands the beautiful equestrian statue of Lafayette.

_Return to the Place de la République and turn right along the Avenue de la Citadelle which separates the Esplanade from the Place de la République. Follow this road, which presently passes, on the left, the Engineers' barracks and then a garden._

_After passing the garden, turn left into the Avenue du Maréchal-Joffre which leads to the Place du Roi-George (in front of the former station)._

_Not far from the Place_, a round tower _is visible_, the remains of ramparts of the Middle Ages. _Leave the old station behind you and go alongside the gardens by the Avenue Serpenoise which follows the tramway; immediately to the left is the_ PORTE SERPENOISE (1852).

_Beyond the Place de la République, follow the Rue Serpenoise which is a continuation of the avenue._ It is the busiest street in Metz. _It is further continued by the Rue Ladoucette which leads to the Rue Fournirue._

_Keep right along the Rue Fournirue and then still right along the Rue du Change to reach the Place Saint-Louis._

The =Place Saint-Louis= or du Change was formerly occupied by sixty stalls of money-changers. Some of the houses in the "Place" have preserved their battlements, their pointed or semi-circular arches and their three-cusped casements as well as some Renaissance balconies. This name of Saint-Louis comes from a statue of Louis XIII, found in the ruins of the citadel and converted by the priest of Saint-Simplice into a Louis IX. Mystery plays were acted in the "Place". It was then used for the executions of criminals and after that a corn market.

_At the far end of the "Place" take the Rue Royale and then turn left into the Rue Coislin which runs alongside the Coislin barracks (plan below)._

_At the bottom of the Rue Coislin take the Rue Pont-à-Seille which leads to the Place des Charrons, then at the end of the Place, the Rue du Grand-Wad leading to the_ RAMPART DES ALLEMANDS _and continue left as far as the_ =Porte des Allemands.=

The PORTE DES ALLEMANDS, on the Seille, is a remarkable edifice.

It is mentioned as far back as 1324. In the 15th century it was entirely restored by the architect Henri de Banceval.

_Opposite the_ =Porte des Allemands,= _take the Rue des Allemands_ (_see the interesting_ CHURCH OF SAINT-EUCAIRE _on the right) and continue to the Place des Paraiges._

_At the end of the Place, turn right along the Rue Saulnerie and its continuation on the left, the Rue du Paradis leading into the Rue des Capucins. At the end of the latter is the Place des Maréchaux where is_ SAINTE-SÉGOLÈNE CHURCH, built on the site of an oratory founded by Saint Segolene in the 7th century. The present church, built at two different periods (the choirs, the nave and the doorway are earlier than the aisles) dates back to somewhere in the 13th century. The long and narrow windows are mostly in pairs and with a spear-head finish. The side chapels contain beautiful stained-glass windows and there is a curious openwork gallery in the organ-loft and some interesting pictures.

_Turn left and take the Rue des Trinitaires, passing an old building with square turrets, near a gateway_ "Hostel Saint-Ligier". _Then turn right into the Rue de la Bibliothèque._

_In this street is situated, at the corner of the Rue Chèvremont_, a huge building, formerly the church of Petits-Carmes, the work of Sébastien Leclerc, which includes both the =Library= (80,000 volumes and 1,987 manuscripts) and the =Museum= (collections of local archaeology, natural history, objets d'arts, and three picture galleries).

_At the Museum, take the Rue Chèvremont which ends at the Rue de la Boucherie, into which turn left and so reach the_ =Pont Saint-Georges,= _over the Moselle._

_Cross this bridge from which there is a beautiful view (Photo page 190), and enter the Rue du Pont-Saint-Georges. Immediately to the right branches off the Rue Chambière leading to the_ =Chambière Cemetery= where are the graves of the French soldiers who fell during the siege of 1870.

_The road runs between the vast slaughterhouse, the cattle market and the huts used as an army storehouse. An old cemetery is crossed with some monumental tombs standing in the midst, and then by skirting the Israelite cemetery and the Moselle the_ =military cemetery= _is reached._

There are plain tombs under bushy trees. In the centre is a tall pyramid 12 m. high; all the base is represented by numerous coffins piled on each other. There rest the soldiers who died in the hospitals of Metz from wounds received at the battles of Borny, Gravelotte, Saint-Privat, Servigny, Pletre and Ladonchamps. There are 7,203 in all.

Wreathes, tri-coloured cockades, and ribbons have never ceased, for 48 years, to adorn these graves which the ladies of Metz piously decorate with flowers every anniversary.

_Return by the same route to the Rue du Pont-Saint-Georges. The Rue Vincentrue is soon reached on the left and should be taken._

_Then turn right into the Rue des Bénédictins._

_Apply, at No. 7 in this street, to visit the_ =Church of Saint-Clement.=

It was started in 1668. The choir, the nave and the aisle were begun in 1680 by the Italian, Spinga. The West door was damaged in the Revolution. The church is now part of the College founded by the Jesuits, where Marshal Foch began his education.

_Return to the Rue des Bénédictins and continue along it until the Rue Saint-Vincent is reached on the left, leading to the "Place" of the same name, on which stands the remarkable_ =Church of Saint-Vincent= _built in 1248._

The straight-built nave supported by 12 small-columned pillars, the very regular choir, and the beautiful ogival chapels should certainly be seen.

_Continue along the Rue Saint-Vincent on the other side of the "Place". The Rue Saint-Marcel, which is its continuation, leads to the Rue du Pont-à-Morts which should be followed to the left._

_Cross the Moselle by the Pont-Moyen_ (pretty view). _Follow the Rue Sainte-Marie which follows the bridge and then turn left along the Rue du Faisan leading to the small and charming_ PLACE DE CHAMBRE.

_From the_ PLACE DE CHAMBRE _return to the_ CATHEDRAL _and the_ PLACE D'ARMES _by the little Rue d'Estrées._

ALPHABETICAL INDEX

A

Avocourt and Wood, 120

B

Bayonet Trench, 98 Bras, 105

C

Charny, 108 Chattancourt, 110 Col de Pommerieux, 119 Combres, 135 Corbeaux (Wood), 115 Cumières, 109

D

Dame Ravine, 102 Dombasle, 123 Douaumont: Mortuary, 96 Fort, 88 Village, 95

E

Éparges, 129 Esnes, 102 Étain, 125 to 127

F

Fleury, 85 Fresnes-en-Woëvre, 124

H

Haie Renard, 81 Haudromont (Quarries), 102 Helly Ravine, 103 Hill 304, 118

L

La Harazée, 156 La Haute-Chevauchée, 152 Le Four-de-Paris, 156

M

Montfaucon, 139 Malancourt, 140 Marre (fort), 107 Metz, 165 to 191 Mort-Homme, 112

O

Oie Hill, 190

P

Poivre Hill, 104

R

Romagne, 142

S

Sacred Way, 122 Saint-Rémy, 128 Souville (fort), 76

T

Tavannes (fort), 64 -- (tunnel), 65 Thiaumont, 86 Tranchée de Calonne, 125 Trésauvaux, 135

V

Vacherauville (f), 107 Vauquois, 145 Vaux (fort), 67 -- (pool), 83 Verdun, 51 to 59 Varennes, 151 Voie Sacrée, 122

1-4-932-5-258--R. C. nº 2.213 Clermont-Ferrand--Printed in France.

IMP. CUSSAC. PARIS 1927

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