Part 1

THE SPANISH SERIES

VALLADOLID, OVIEDO, SEGOVIA ZAMORA, AVILA, AND ZARAGOZA

THE SPANISH SERIES

_EDITED BY ALBERT F. CALVERT_

GOYA TOLEDO SEVILLE MURILLO CORDOVA VELAZQUEZ CERVANTES THE PRADO THE ESCORIAL SPANISH ARMS AND ARMOUR GRANADA AND THE ALHAMBRA LEON, BURGOS, AND SALAMANCA VALLADOLID, OVIEDO, SEGOVIA, ZAMORA, AVILA, AND ZARAGOZA

_In preparation._

MADRID GALICIA EL GRECO CITIES OF ANDALUCIA MURCIA AND VALENCIA ROYAL PALACES OF SPAIN TAPESTRIES OF THE ROYAL PALACE CATALONIA AND BALEARIC ISLANDS SANTANDER, BISCAYA, AND NAVARRE

VALLADOLID, OVIEDO SEGOVIA, ZAMORA AVILA, & ZARAGOZA

AN HISTORICAL & DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT, BY ALBERT F. CALVERT, WITH 413 ILLUSTRATIONS

LONDON: JOHN LANE, THE BODLEY HEAD

NEW YORK: JOHN LANE COMPANY MCMVIII

Edinburgh: T. and A. CONSTABLE, Printers to His Majesty

PREFACE

The six cities of Spain which form the subject of the following pages are little known to English travellers. Yet no one who would understand the country can afford to pass them by. Not only are they compact of artistic and architectural treasures, but within their walls much of the history of the Spanish nation has been made. Oviedo--that little city between the mountains and the sea, so far off the beaten track--was the cradle of the monarchy, the residence and burial-place of its patriot kings. For all men of Spanish blood it is holy ground. In Zamora we have the typical city of the heroic age of Spain, the era of half-fabulous heroes, whose personalities are made known to us only by folklore and ballads.

Segovia and Avila are towns of the Reconquest, wardens, one might say, against the redoubtable Moor. To the fancy their grass-grown streets still re-echo with the tramp of armed men, with the ring of spears and the word of command. The shadowy warriors of Oviedo and Zamora here give place to the tall knight who stalks across the page of history, ready to do battle with pagan Moor or Christian tyrant. But Avila enshrines the holier memory of the sainted Theresa, greatest of Spanish women, revered not least in the lands for whose conversion to her faith she unceasingly prayed. And so we pass on, each town illustrating a different stage of a great nation’s development.

In Valladolid, which preceded and subsequently nearly supplanted Madrid as the capital of Spain, we are again on holy ground; for Cervantes dwelt here, and here died the immortal Columbus. Zaragoza, the chief city of a kingdom that influenced the destinies of powerful European States when Castile was hardly known to the outside world, has ever been a noble and important capital, boasting a glory which has been brightest perhaps in its later days. To the citizens of Zaragoza was reserved the honour of rejecting the Inquisition, to which other towns reluctantly submitted, and just one hundred years ago she proved to an astonished Europe that within her crumbling walls dwelt the old brood of Numantia--that she was prolific still of heroes and heroines.

The prowess of Augustina would not indeed have come as a surprise to those who knew her country well; nor could the most thoughtless of travellers, after a survey of the memorials of genius and vitality which these six cities contain, ever believe the greatness of the people to be exhausted. Already Valladolid and Zaragoza throb with life and commerce. But a few more years and the other cities, already stirring, will pulsate with the spirit of young Spain, and the Phœnix, born a thousand years ago at Oviedo, will renew its youth for the tenth time.

To Señor J. Lacoste my thanks are due for his courtesy in permitting me to reproduce many of the photographs which find a place in this book, and I have also to acknowledge the assistance rendered me by Mr. E. B. d’Auvergne in the preparation of the text.

A. F. C.

CONTENTS

CHAP. PAGE

I. VALLADOLID 1

II. OVIEDO 38

III. SEGOVIA 59

IV. ZAMORA 86

V. AVILA 103

VI. ZARAGOZA 135

ILLUSTRATIONS

VALLADOLID

SUBJECT PLATE

General View of Valladolid, 1

General View of Valladolid, 2

The Bridge of Piedra, 3

La Acera de San Francisco, 4

The Town Hall, 5

The Old Parish Church, 6

House in which Christopher Columbus died, 7

House where King Philip II. was born, 8

The Royal Palace of Philip III., 9

Church of San Juan de Letran, 10

College of the Escoceses, 11

College of the Ingleses, 12

Interior view of the Library, 13

Interior of the Museum, 14

Façade of the Museum, 15

Museum: Back of a Choir Stall, by Berruguete, 16

Museum: Detail of the Choir Stalls of San Benito, 17

Museum: Several Fragments of Choir Stalls, by Berruguete, 18

Museum: Head of St. Paul, 19

Museum: Centre part of a Wooden Altar-piece, 20

Museum: Fragments of Choir Stalls, by Berruguete, 21

Museum: Fragments of Choir Stalls, by Berruguete, 22

Museum: Altar-piece carved in wood, 23

Museum: The Assumption of the Virgin, by Rubens, 24

Museum: St. Anthony of Padua and the Child Jesus, by Rubens, 25

Museum: The Annunciation, by José Martinez, 26

Museum: The Holy Family, by Raphael, 27

Museum: St. Francis and a Lay Brother, by Rubens, 28

St. Joachim and the Virgin as a Child, by Murillo, 29

Provincial Museum: San Bruno, 30

Centre of the Façade of San Gregorio, 31

Detail of the Façade of San Gregorio, 32

Detail of the Façade of San Gregorio, 33

Left Angle in the Court of San Gregorio, 34

Gallery in the Court of San Gregorio, 35

Detail in the Court of San Gregorio, 36

Interior Gate of San Gregorio, 37

Façade of San Pablo, 38

Lower Part of the Façade of San Pablo, 39

Detail of the Portal of San Pablo, 40

Lower Central Part of the Façade of San Pablo, 41

Portal of San Pablo, 42

Detail of the Porch of San Pablo, 43

Detail of the Porch of San Pablo, 44

OVIEDO

General View, 45

Tower of the Cathedral 46

Principal Entrance to the Cathedral, 47

Principal Gate of the Cathedral, 48

Cathedral: View of the Interior, 49

Cathedral: The Retablo, 50

La Camara Santa, 51

Coffin in the Cathedral, 52

Old Tower of the Cathedral, 53

Cathedral: Oaken Ark, 54

Cathedral: Section, Plan, and Details of the Camara Santa, 55

Cathedral: Cross of the Angels, 56

Crosses and Caskets of the Asturias, 57

Cathedral: Cross of Victory, 58

A Capital, 59

Santa Maria de Naranco, 60

Santa Maria de Naranco, 61

Church of San Miguel de Lineo, 62

Church of San Juan de Priorio, 63

Church of San Juan de Priorio, 64

Details of the Churches of St. Clara, St. John, and Our Lady de la Vega, 65

Details of Santa Maria de Valdedios, 66

Details of Santa Maria de Valdedios, 67

Details of San Juan de Amandi, 68

Details of San Juan de Amandi, 69

Details of the Church of Villaviciosa, 70

Details of the Church of Villaviciosa, 71

Plan and Section of San Salvador de Valdedios, 72

Details of San Salvador de Valdedios, 73

Details of the Churches of Priesca and Fuentes, 74

Details of Santa Maria de Villamayor, 75

Details of Santa Maria de Villamayor, 76

Details of San Adrian de Tunon, 77

Details of the Hermitage of Santa Cristina, 78

Details of the Collegiate Church of Covadonga, 79

Details of the Church of Ujo, 80

Details of the Church of Ujo, 81

SEGOVIA

General View from the Nievas, 82

General View, 83

The Roman Aqueduct, 84

The Alcazar and Cathedral from the Fuencisla, 85

General View from the Nievas, 86

Old Houses in the Plaza Mayor, 87

View of the Walls, 88

Aqueduct over the River Castilla, 89

The Cathedral, 90

View of the Cathedral, 91

View of the Cathedral, 92

Casa de los Picos, 93

Church of Santa Cruz, 94

Porch of the Church of Santa Cruz, 95

Church of Santa Cruz, 96

View of the Mint and the Parral, 97

Façade of the Parral, 98

Cloisters of the Parral, 99

General View of Turégano, 100

Turégano Castle, 101

General View of Coca Castle, 102

Another View of Coca Castle, 103

St. Andrew’s Gate, 104

The Arch of the Fuencisla, 105

Gate of Santiago, 106

The Alcazar before the Fire of 1862, 107

The Alcazar from the Hoyos Hill, 108

View of the Alcazar, 109

The Alcazar from the Caves, 110

Façade of the Alcazar before the Fire of 1862, 111

Details of the Church of the Parral, 112

Church of St. Nicholas, 113

View of the Church of Vera Cruz, 114

Porch of the Church of Vera Cruz, 115

Courtyard of the Marquis of Arcos’ House, 116

Façade of St. John, 117

Church of St. John, 118

San Juan de los Caballeros, 119

Church of St. Martin, 120

Porch of St. Martin, 121

Parish Church of St. Martin, 122

Details of the Church of St. Martin, 123

General View of St. Stephen, 124

Portico of St. Stephen, 125

Details of St. Stephen, 126

Church of San Lorenzo, 127

Church of San Lorenzo, 128

Lateral Façade of San Lorenzo, 129

The Church of San Lorenzo, 130

Details of San Lorenzo, 131

Interior of San Millán, 132

Interior of San Millán, 133

Arches and Eaves of San Millán, 134

Sectional Elevations of San Millán, 135

Details of San Millán, 136

Details of San Millán, 137

Details of San Millán, 138

Details of the Convent of Corpus Christi, 139

Interior of the Convent of Santo Domingo and Towers, 140

Painted Socles in the Tower of Santo Domingo, 141

Façade of the Convent of Our Lady de la Sierra, 142

Ruins of the Chapel of the Convent of Our Lady de la Sierra, 143

Interior of the Ruined Convent of Our Lady de la Sierra, 144

Porch of the Convent of Our Lady de la Sierra, 145

General View of the Roman Aqueduct, 146

The Roman Aqueduct, 147

The Roman Aqueduct, 148

The Roman Aqueduct, 149

The Roman Aqueduct, 150

The Roman Aqueduct, 151

The Roman Aqueduct, 152

A Dance in the Plaza del Pueblo de Nieva, 153

Enrique IV. conducting the Infanta Isabel through the Streets of Segovia, 154

Group of Peasants of the Province, 155

Peasants of the Province, 156

Peasants of the Province, 157

Peasants of the Province, 158

Peasants of the Province, 159

Peasants of the Province, 160

Peasants of the Province, 161

Peasants of the Province, 162

Peasants of the Province, 163

Peasants of the Province, 164

Peasants of the Province, 165

ZAMORA

View of Zamora, 166

View of Zamora, 167

Walls and Postern Gate, 168

Stone Bridge over the Duero, 169

Bridge over the Duero, 170

View of the Cathedral, 171

Façade of the Cathedral, 172

Cathedral: Gate of the Bishop, 173

The Cathedral: East Front, 174

Cathedral: Gate of the Bishop, 175

Cathedral: Gate of the Bishop, 176

Ancient Cistercian Monastery of Moreruela, 177

Ancient Cistercian Monastery of Moreruela, 178

Ancient Cistercian Monastery of Moreruela: Detail of the Interior, 179

Ancient Cistercian Monastery of Moreruela: Detail of the Interior, 180

Ancient Cistercian Monastery of Moreruela: Chancel, 181

Ancient Cistercian Monastery of Moreruela: Example of the Vaulting, 182

Ancient Cistercian Monastery of Moreruela: Interior, 183

Ancient Cistercian Monastery of Moreruela: Transept and Nave, 184

Ancient Cistercian Monastery of Moreruela: Detail of a Window, 185

Ancient Cistercian Monastery of Moreruela: Transept Porch, 186

Santa Maria la Nueva: Detail of the Exterior, 187

Santa Maria la Nueva: Doorway, 188

Santa Maria la Nueva: Capitals of Recessed Windows, 189

Church of the Magdalen, 190

Principal Door of the Church of the Magdalen, 191

Plan and Sections of the Church of St. Peter, 192

Details of the Church of St. Peter (Nave), 193

House of The Cid, 194

Tapestry of the Beginning of the Fifteenth Century, 195

Painting in the Town Hall, 196

Painting in the Town Hall, 197

Painting in the Town Hall, 198

Painting in the Town Hall, 199

The Royal Escutcheon, 200

St. Ferdinand and King John II., 201

The Arms of the Town, 202

Queen Urraca and Aris Gonzalo, 203

Trophies of Arms and Armour in the Town Hall, 204

The House of the Momos, 205

Bridge of Rocobayo over the Esla, 206

Stone Quarries of the Town of Valderojo, 207

Earthworks of the ancient City of Toro, 208

North and Centre Gates of the Church of Toro, 209

Details of the Church of Toro, 210

Group of Peasants of the Village of Bermigo de Sayago, 211

Group of Peasants of the Village of Carbajales, 212

Peasants of the Village of Bermigo de Sayago, 213

AVILA

General View, 214

General View, 215

View of Avila, 216

Gate of the Alcazar, 217

Gate of San Vicente, 218

Gate of San Vicente, 219

Gate of San Vicente, 220

Gate of San Vicente, 221

A Street, 222

View of the Cathedral, 223

Exterior of the Cathedral, 224

Entrance to the Cathedral, 225

Plan of the Cathedral, 226

The Cathedral, 227

Side Door of the Cathedral, 228

Cathedral: Pulpit of Repoussé Iron Work, 229

Cathedral: Pulpit of Repoussé Iron Work, 230

Cathedral: Pulpit of Repoussé Iron Work, 231

Interior of the Cathedral, 232

Cathedral: Detail of the Interior, 233

Cathedral: Detail of the Choir, 234

Cathedral: The Choir, 235

Cathedral: Detail of the Choir, 236

Cathedral: Detail of the Choir, 237

Cathedral: Detail of the Choir, 238

Cathedral: Altar of San Segundo, 239

Cathedral: Altar of Santa Lucia, 240

Cathedral: Sepulchre of Don Juan d’Avila, 241

Cathedral: Tomb of El Testado, 242

Cathedral: Altar behind the Choir, 243

Cathedral: Silver Monstrance of Juan de Arfe, 244

Convent of Santo Tomas: Sepulchre of the Infante Don Juan, 245

Sepulchre of the Holy Martyrs Vicente, Sabina, and Cristina, 246

Interior of the Chapel of San Bernardo, 247

Church of St. Peter, 248

Entrance to the Church of St. Peter, 249

Church of St. Peter, 250