Part 1
FOURTEENTH EDITION
UTOPIA YARN BOOK BEING A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON KNITTING AND CROCHETING
PUBLISHED BY THE MANUFACTURERS OF UTOPIA YARNS
_Copyright, 1919 By Henry E. Frankenberg Co. New York_
_Introductory Remarks_
In this, the _Fourteenth Edition_ of the UTOPIA YARN BOOK, you will find many exceptionally novel ideas for Knitting and Crocheting, embodying a carefully selected line of the very latest creations of Sweater Coats. All the new and most delightful garments and articles illustrated throughout this book owe a great deal of their charm to the fact that they have been worked with UTOPIA YARNS. Their excellence lies not only in their softness, elasticity and evenness of thread, but in the variety of styles and brilliant color lines as well. To secure the best results in the Art of Knitting and Crocheting, only the best yarns should be used. We therefore recommend this book (for instructions) and UTOPIA YARNS to attain this end. There is a UTOPIA YARN for every purpose.
_The Recognized Manual of Knitting and Crocheting_
To avoid committing the error so frequently made of publishing a lot of directions that are difficult to understand, or which involve an amount of labor all out of proportion to the result attained, we have employed a well-known expert to write the instructions in the Utopia Yarn Book.
Every one of the standard stitches is so clearly illustrated and the directions are so concise and to the point, that the novice will have no difficulty in understanding them, while the great number of novelties illustrated make the book of unusual interest and value to the expert.
Full and explicit instructions are given right from the making of the stitch to the completion of the finished garment, while the styles selected in every case are such as afford an excellent return for the work involved.
List of General Abbreviations
St.—Stitch. Sts.—Stitches. Bor.—Border. Cen.—Center. W. L.—Waistline. Inc.—Increase. Dcr.—Decrease. Dir.—Direction. Dz.—Dozen. E.—Each or Every. Ex.—Extra. Fol. Patt.—Follow Pattern. Foll.—Follow. Fr.—Front. Edg.—Edge or edges. Gr., Grp.—Group. Grs. Grps.—Groups. In.—Inch. L., Lt.—Light. Dk.—Dark. Sk.—Skip or Skein as needed. Pr.—Pair. Pt.—Point. Pts.—Points. Sks.—Skeins. Y.—Yarn. W.—Wool. Re.—Repeat. Sl.—Sleeve. Sls.—Sleeves. Coll.—Collar. Pct.—Pocket. Sq., Sqr.—Square. Sqrs.—Squares. Wrk., Wk.—Work. Sp.—Space. Sps.—Spaces. B., Bll.—Ball. Blls.—Balls. Str.—Stripe. Strs.—Stripes. Sc., Scal.—Scallop. Str., Strt.—Straight. Yd.—Yard. Cir.—Circle. Br., Brk.—Break. Dr.—Draw. S. L.—Single Loop. Che.—Chenille. Fld.—Fold. No.—Number. Bet.—Between. Cor.—Corner. Sm.—Small.
Abbreviations for Knitting and Crocheting
ABBREVIATIONS USED IN KNITTING
K.—Knit. Pl. K.—Plain Knit. P.—Purl. Rd., Rds.—Ridge, Ridges. R.—Row. Rs.—Rows. Pl. St.—Plain Stitch. Sl.—Slip a stitch. N.—Needle. Ns.—Needles. N.—Narrow, decrease, or knit two together. Sl. and B.—Slip and bind. D. P.—Double Purl.
ABBREVIATIONS USED IN CROCHETING
Ch.—Chain. Cr., Cro.—Crochet. Sl. St.—Slip stitch. S. C.—Single Crochet. D. C.—Double Crochet. H. D. C.—Half Double Crochet. Stk. St.—Stack-stitch. Rib. St.—Ribbon Stitch. L., Lps.—Loops. L., Lp.—Loop. Afg. St.—Afghan Stitch. Tr. C., Tri. Cro.—Triple Crochet. S. St.—Single Stitch. L. C.—Long Crochet. Pic., P.—Picot. M.—Mesh; Ch. 2, skip 2 sts., 1 d. c. on d. c. T. C.—Treble Crochet. D. T. C.—Double Treble Crochet.
ABBREVIATIONS FOR COLORS
Col.—Color. Bl.—Blue. Blk.—Black. Br.—Brown. Gr.—Green or Grey. Yel.—Yellow. P., Pk.—Pink. R. Anc.—Rose Ancienne. Lav.—Lavender. Wis.—Wistaria Bt. Or.—Burnt Orange. Wh.—White. Pur.—Purple. Kh.—Khaki. Mex.—Mexique.
These illustrations show the numbers and actual sizes of the steel and bone crochet hooks mentioned throughout this book.
These illustrations show the numbers and actual sizes of the steel and bone knitting pins mentioned throughout this book.
These illustrations show the numbers and actual sizes of the amber (celluloid) knitting pins and crochet hooks mentioned throughout this book.
Explanation of the Terms Used in Knitting
No. 1 To Cast on Stitches
Make a loop on the left-hand needle, slip the right-hand needle into this loop, * pass wool around the point of needle, draw the wool through and slip the loop forward on to the left-hand needle, slip right-hand needle into the loop just made, repeat from * until the required number of loops or sts. are on left-hand needle.
No. 2 Another Way of Casting on Stitches
Tie a slip knot with the wool holding needle in right-hand, * slip needle in loop just made, pass wool around forefinger and thumb of left-hand, holding wool underneath fourth and fifth fingers in palm of hand, insert needle under wool of forefinger and over wool between thumb and forefinger and draw the wool which is now over needle between thumb and forefinger up through space, release wool from thumb and forefinger, drawing loop up on needle to form the new loop or st., repeat from * until required number of loops or sts. are on needle, pass needle to left-hand.
No. 3 To Knit
Having the required number of sts. on left-hand needle, * slip right-hand needle into front of st. on left-hand needle, pass wool around right-hand needle, and draw this loop through to form the new st. Leave the loop on right-hand needle, dropping the st. from left-hand needle, repeat from * until all sts. are on right-hand needle.
No. 4 1 Row Knit
No. 5 To Knit Back and Forth is Called a Ridge
No. 6 To Purl
Pass the wool in front of right-hand needle, take up the st. on left-hand needle, inserting the needle from right to left, instead of usual way in knitting; pass wool around the back of right-hand needle.
No. 7
Draw this loop through backward instead of forward to form the new st. Leave the loop on right-hand needle, drop the st. from left-hand needle, being careful to carry the wool back of needle after a purled st. before knitting a plain st.
No. 8 To Knit One Row
First Row—* Slip right-hand needle into front of st. on left-hand needle, pass wool around right-hand needle, and draw this loop through, leave the loop on right-hand needle, drop same from left-hand needle, repeat from * until all sts. are knit on right-hand needle.
No. 9 Turn, Purl One Row
Second Row—* Pass wool in front of right-hand needle, inserting the needle from right to left instead of front of st. as in plain knitting, pass wool around back of right-hand needle and draw this loop through backward instead of forward, leave loop on right-hand needle, drop st. from left-hand needle, repeat from * until all sts. are purled.
Repeat the first and second rows alternately, the right side of work will be plain knit, No. 8, and will show the same results as when knitting in rounds as on a stocking; the left of work side is purled, No. 9.
No. 10 To Slip a Stitch
Take a st. from left-hand needle on to the right-hand needle without knitting it.
No. 11 To Knit in Rib of K. 1, P. 1
Cast on an even number of sts., * slip right-hand needle into front of st. on left-hand needle, pass wool around right-hand needle, and draw this loop through, leave loop on right-hand needle, drop st. from left-hand needle, pass the wool in front of right-hand needle, take up the st. on left-hand needle, inserting needle from right to left, pass wool around the back of right-hand needle, and draw this loop through backwards, leave loop on right-hand needle, drop the st. from left-hand needle, care being taken to carry wool back of needle after this purl st., repeat from *.
No. 12 To Increase a Stitch
K. the st. as usual, leaving it on the left-hand needle, then k. the back of same st., drop the st. from left-hand needle; this makes two sts. out of one.
No. 13 To Slip and Bind
Slip one st., k. the next st., pass the slipped st. over the knitted one.
Note—Where it is necessary to decrease the number of sts. the slipped is passed over two or sometimes three sts. knitted together.
No. 15. No Illustration To Bind Off
Either slip or k. the first st., k the next st., pass the first st. over the second st. * K. the next st., pass the st. on right-hand needle over it, repeat from * until as many sts. are bound off as are required, or that but one st. is left, draw wool through this st., and break off wool.
No. 14
Another way to bind off is by using a crochet hook, have all sts. on the left-hand needle, insert hook in the first st. on knitting needle, wool over hook and draw through loop on knitting needle, drop the st. from needle, * insert hook in next st. on knitting needle, over and draw through the st. on knitting needle, and the loop on hook, drop the st. from needle, repeat from * until all sts. are bound off, ch. 1, break off wool.
To Work a Corner in Knitting
First Row—Pick up the sts. from garment with a steel knitting needle, after all the sts. are picked up, k. with the needles which are to be used in plain knitting, tie a thread in sts. which are to be the corner sts.
Second Row—K. to within one st., which is to be the corner st., over, k. the corner st., over, and k. the remaining sts.
Third Row—K. all the sts., also knitting the wool over.
Repeat second and third rows for as many rows as are required or ridges.
To Narrow or Decrease a Stitch or to K. 2 Sts. Together
(No Illustration)
Insert right-hand needle into two sts., at once, same as in k., over, and draw through the two sts. as if they were one, drop the sts. from left-hand needle or insert the needle through the back of two sts., same as in p., over, and draw through the two sts., drop the st. from left-hand needle.
A Round—To k. once around the work, when three or more needles are used, as in a stocking.
To make a Buttonhole, when Knitting—K. 3 sts., bind off two or as many sts. as the size of buttonhole desired, and in next row cast on as many sts. as were bound off.
Cuffs—Start to k. all cuffs in center of sleeve from seam.
* * * * *
Knitted Button
With wool, cast on 6 sts., k. in ridges, increase 1 st. on each end of needle every other row until there are 12 sts. on needle, k. 6 ridges, then decrease 1 st. on each end of needle every other row until 6 sts. are left, bind off, leave about 10 inches of wool, and draw all sts. around knitted cover, as illustrated, slip in mould, and draw firmly together.
To make larger or smaller cover for buttons, cast on more or less sts., k. until desired width, then k. as many ridges as sts. started, then decrease again, bind off.
Crocheted Button
Crocheted Buttons—Ch. 3 sts., turn, skip 1 st., 8 s. c. in next st.
* 1 s. c. in st., 2 s. c. in next st., repeat from * until cover is large enough to cover mould, slip in mould, then * * 1 s. c. in st., skip 1 st., repeat from * * until closed.
Daisy
With white wool, or 2 threads of white silk, ch. 6 sts., join with a sl. st. to form a ring, * ch. 9 sts., turn, skip 1 st., 1 s. c., 1 h. d. c., 4 d. c., 1 h. d. c., 1 s. c. on the 9 ch. sts., 1 s. c. in ring, repeat from * 7 times, break off silk or wool.
With yellow wool or silk, ch. 5 sts., join to form a ring, 10 s. c. in ring.
Sew neatly to center of daisy.
Roses and Leaves
With colored or white wool, or 2 threads of silk, ch. 8 sts., join with a sl. st. to form a ring, ch. 3, 15 d. c. in ring counting ch. 3 as 1 d. c., join with a sl. st. in top ch. st. on ch. 3.
Second Round—Repeat ch. 5, skip 2 sts., 1 s. c. in next st., 5 times.
Third Round—1 s. c., 5 d. c., 1 s. c. in each of the 5 spaces.
Fourth Round—Repeat ch. 7, 1 s. c. in s. c. of second round, 5 times.
Fifth Round—1 s. c., 7 d. c., 1 s. c. in each of the 5 spaces, leave enough wool or silk to sew on with.
Leaves—With colored or white wool or silk, ch. 8 sts., turn, skip 1 st., 1 s. c., 1 h. d. c., 4 d. c., 1 h. d. c., 1 s. c. on the 8 ch. sts., ch. 1, 1 s. c., 1 h. d. c., 4 d. c., 1 h. d. c., 1 s. c. on the same 8 ch. sts. on the other side, leave enough wool or silk to sew on with.
* * * * *
Explanation of Terms Used in Crocheting
No. 1 Chain Stitch
To start the ch., tie a slip knot, * insert the hook, pass the wool over hook and draw through a loop, repeat from *, drawing through as many loops as are required. Each loop being called a ch. st.
No. 2 Slip Stitch
Insert hook in ch. or st., over, and draw a loop through ch. or st. and the loop on hook.
No. 3 Single Crochet
Insert hook in ch. or st., draw the wool through, over, and draw through both loops on hook.
No. 4 Half Double Crochet
Over, insert the hook in ch. or st., draw a loop through, over, and draw through the three loops on hook.
No. 5 Double Crochet
Over, insert the hook in ch. or st., draw a loop through, over, and draw through two loops, over, and draw through two loops.
No. 6 Long Crochet
Over, insert the hook in ch. or st., draw a loop through, over, and draw through a loop, over, and draw through two loops, over, and draw through two loops.
No. 7 Treble Crochet
Over twice, insert the hook in ch. or st., draw a loop through, over, and draw through two loops, over, and draw through two loops, over, and draw through two loops.
No. 8 D. C. Around D. C.
Ch. an even number of sts., turn, skip 3 sts., 1 d. c. in each of the ch. sts., turn, ch. 3.
Second Row—Skip 1 st., * over, insert hook in space before next d. c. and out again next to d. c., over, and draw through a loop, over, draw through 2 loops, over, draw through 2 loops, repeat from * to end of row.
Repeat second row for d. c. around d. c.
No. 9 Picot Edge, No. 1
1 s. c. in top of st., * ch. 3, draw a loop through same st. where last st. was made in, draw a loop through next st., over, draw through the 3 loops on hook, repeat from *.
Picot Edge, No. 2
1 s. c. in top of st., * ch. 3, 1 s. c. in next st., repeat from *.
Picot Edge, No. 3
(No Illustration)
1 s. c. in st., * ch. 4, insert hook in first st. on ch. 4, draw a loop through ch. st. and loop on hook, skip 1 st., 1 s. c. in next st., repeat from *.
Note—In making a picot edge care must be taken to crochet edge so as to lay flat, skipping one or more sts. at intervals or crocheting looser or firmer.
No. 1a Afghan Stitch
Ch. as many sts. as are required, turn, skip 1 st., draw a loop through each st. on ch. until all the sts. of ch. are on hook.
No. 2a First Row of Afghan Stitch
Over, and draw through one loop, * over, draw through 2 loops, repeat from * until there is 1 loop on hook.
No. 3a Second Row of Afghan Stitch
Draw a loop through each upright st. until all loops are on hook.
Note—The first and second rows crocheted alternately are always counted as one complete row of the afghan st.
No. 4a To Increase an Afghan Stitch
Draw a loop through ch. st. between the two upright sts., when making the second row.
No. 5a To Decrease an Afghan Stitch
Over, draw through 3 sts., instead of 2 sts., as in first row.
To Bind Off the Afghan Stitch
(No Illustration)
* Insert hook in next upright st., over, and draw through upright st. and loop on hook, repeat from * until all sts. are bound off, ch. 1, break off wool.
Purled Afghan Stitch
Ch. as many sts. as are required, turn, skip 1 st., draw a loop through each st. on ch. until all the sts. of ch. are on hook, over, and draw through 1 loop, * over, draw through 2 loops, repeat from * until there is 1 loop left on hook.
First Row—* Pass wool to right side of work, draw a loop through upright st., repeat from * until there is one loop on hook, work back as in plain afghan st. Repeat first row for the work.
* * * * *
Silk Edges, Nos. 1, 2 and 3
Silk Edge No. 1—With steel hook, ch. 1, * 1 s. c. in st., skip 2 sts., 5 d. c. in next st., repeat from * around neck of yoke, * * ch. 4, 1 s. c. in next st. around kimono and sleeves.
Silk Edge No. 2—Ch. 1, 1 sl. st. in st., * ch. 3, 1 sl. st. in next st., repeat from * around kimono and sleeves.
Silk Edge No. 3—Ch. 1, * 1 s. c. in st., skip 1 st., 6 d. c. in next st., skip 1 st., repeat from *, making 9 d. c. instead of 6 d. c. in all corner sts.
* * * * *
Criss Cross Joining
Take the strips to be joined, ch. 1, slip this ch. off the hook, take the 2 strips to be joined, insert hook in first st. on one strip, slip ch. st. on hook again and draw through st. (this will bring wool on wrong side of work), insert hook in second st. on other strip, over, draw through a long loop, draw this loop through loop on hook, cross back to third st. on first strip, repeat crossing back and forth drawing a long loop from one strip then the other, care being taken to skip only one st. on each strip in crossing back and forth.
* * * * *
Directions for Knitted Vamp and Foot for Baby’s Bootees
Vamp and Foot—K. 7 sts. on 1st needle, slip the next 14 sts. on a second needle, slip the next 14 sts. on a third needle, and the remaining 7 sts. slip to the first 7 sts. on first needle for vamp, there will be 14 sts. on each of 3 needles, k. 1 round, p. 1 round, k. 1 round, p. 1 round, on the 14 sts. on first needle. K. 17 ridges for vamp or 19 ridges from start of foot, leave the 14 sts. on needle, break off wool. To the 14 sts. on needle at side of boot, pick up 17 sts. for side of vamp, having 31 sts. on needle, then with a spare needle pick up 17 sts. from other side of vamp and slip these 17 sts. to the 14 sts. on side of foot, having 31 sts. on needle.
Start at heel, k. 1 round, p. 1 round, k. 1 round, p. 1 round.
Fifth Round—K. 31 sts., n., k. 10, n., k. 31 sts.
Sixth Round—P.
Repeat fifth and sixth rounds alternately, having 6 sts. between the 2 decreasing points at toe.
K. 1 round, p. 1 round until there are 14 rounds or 7 ridges from start of foot.
Fifteenth Round—N., k. to end of round.
Sixteenth Round—P.
Seventeenth Round—K. up to the last 2 sts., n.
Eighteenth Round—P.
Nineteenth Round—Same as fifteenth round.
Twentieth Round—P.
Fold in half and bind off together, or bind off and sew feet together.
Large Flower and Leaves
With white wool or silk, ch. 9 sts., turn, skip 1 st., 1 s. c., 1 h. d. c., 4 d. c., 1 h. d. c., 1 s. c. in each of the 9 ch. sts., ch. 1, 1 s. c., 1 h. d. c., 1 d. c., 1 h. d. c., 1 s. c. in the same ch. sts., where the first 8 sts. were made in, ch. 1, break off wool or silk.
Make 5 of these petals for one flower, sew together in center.
Center—With yellow wool or silk, ch. 4 sts., join to form a ring. 10 s. c. in ring, join, ch. 1, break off wool, sew to center of flower.
Leaf—With green wool or silk, ch. 14 sts., turn, skip 1 st., 1 s. c. in each of 2 ch. sts., 1 h. d. c. in next st., 1 d. c. in each of 7 sts., 1 h. d. c. in st., 1 s. c. in each of 2 sts., * ch. 1. repeat from * backwards in the same 14 ch. sts.
Make 3 leaves for each flower and sew on same.
Rose and Petals
With Rose Ancienne Wool No. 3692 or rope silk, ch. 6, join with a sl. st. to form a ring, ch. 3, 14 d. c. in ring, counting ch. 3 as 1 d. c., join to top of ch. st. with a sl. st., ch. 1, break off, fasten.
Second Round—With dark rose wool or silk, ch. 1, 1 s. c. in st., * ch. 8, skip 4 sts., 1 s. c. in next st., repeat from * around.
Third Round—1 s. c., 1 d. c., 7 L. d. c., 1 d. c., 1 s. c. in each of 3 spaces, ch. 1, fasten.
Make 4 of these flowers.
Leaves—With green wool or rope silk, ch. 8 sts., turn, skip 1 st., 1 sl. st., 1 s. c., 1 d. c. in each of 3 sts., 1 s. c., 1 sl. st. in each of 7 ch. sts., ch. 1, 1 sl. st., 1 s. c., 1 d. c. in each of 3 sts., 1 s. c., 1 sl. st. in each of 7 ch. sts., where first sts. were made in, leave about 10 inches of wool or silk to sew on with, make 3 leaves for each flower and sew on between petals.
Flower
With water blue wool or 2 threads of silk, ch. 9 sts., turn, skip 1 st., 1 s. c., 1 h. d. c., 1 d. c. in each of 4 sts., 1 h. d. c., 1 s. c. in the 9 ch. sts., ch. 1, 1 s. c., 1 h. d. c., 1 d. c. in each of 4 sts., 1 h. d. c., 1 s. c. in same ch. sts. where first 8 sts. were made in, ch. 1, break off wool or silk.
Make 5 of these petals for one flower, sew together in center.
Center—With green, ch. 4 sts., join to form a ring, 10 s. c. in ring, join, ch. 1, break off, sew to center of flower.
Cherry on Stem with Leaves
With red wool or 2 threads of silk, ch. 4, join to form a ring, ch. 3, 15 d. c. in ring, join with a sl. st. to top ch. st. on ch. 3.
Leaves—With green, ch. 1, 1 sl. st. in st. on cherry, * ch. 15 sts., turn, skip 1 st., 1 s. c., 1 h. d. c., 1 d. c. in each of 4 sts., 1 h. d. c., 1 s. c. on 9 of the 15 ch. sts., 1 sl. st. in next ch. st., ch. 9, turn, skip 1 st., 1 h. d. c., 1 d. c. in each of 4 sts., 1 h. d. c., 1 s. c. in the 9 ch. sts., 1 sl. st. in sl. st., repeat from * once more, ch. 10, break off wool.
Crochet Patterns
Chain 30 sts.
First Row—Skip 5 sts., 1 d. c. in next st., * ch. 2, skip 2 sts., 1 d. c. in next st., repeat from * to end of row, turn, ch. 5.
Second Row—Skip 2 sts., 1 d. c. on d. c., * ch 2, skip 2 sts., 1 d. c. on d. c., repeat from *.
Repeat second row for pattern.
Chain 30 sts., 1 s. c. in 8th st., * ch. 5, skip 3 sts., 1 s. c. in next st., repeat from * to end of row.
Second Row—Turn, * chain 5, 1 s. c. in 3d st. of 5 ch. of first row, repeat from *.
Repeat second row for pattern.
Chain 35 sts., turn, 1 d. c. on 4th st., 6 d. c. on next 6 sts., * ch. 2, skip 2 sts., 1 d. c. on next st., ch. 2, skip 2 sts., 7 d. c. on next 7 sts., repeat from * to end of row.
Second Row—Ch. 4, turn, 6 d. c. on next 6 d. c., * ch. 2, skip 2 sts., 1 d. c. on d. c., ch. 2, skip 2 sts., 7 d. c. on 7 d. c., repeat from * to end of row.
Third Row—Ch. 5, turn, skip 2 sts., 1 d. c. on next st., ch. 2, skip 2 sts., 7 d. c. on next 7 sts., * ch. 2, skip 2 sts., 1 d. c. on next st., ch. 2, skip 2 sts., 7 d. c. on next 7 sts., repeat from * to end of row.
Fourth Row—Same as third row; repeat these 4 rows alternately for pattern.
Chain 35 sts., turn, 1 d. c. on 6th st., 1 d. c. on next st., * ch. 2, skip 2 sts., 2 d. c. on next 2 sts., repeat from * to end of row.
Second Row—Ch. 3, 1 d. c. in m., * ch. 2, skip 2 sts., 2 d. c. in m., repeat from *, repeat second row for pattern.
Chain 30 sts., skip 4 sts., * over, draw loop through next st., over, draw through 1 loop, over, draw through 2 loops, over, draw through 2 loops, repeat from * to end of row.
Second Row—Ch. 3, * over, draw loop through st. between the d. c. on wrong side to keep chain st. perfect on right side, over, draw loop through 1 loop, over, draw loop through 2 loops, over, draw loop through 2 loops, repeat from * to end of row.