Part 19

242. _The PILCHARD_ (Clupæa pilcardus) _is a fish of the herring tribe, and so nearly resembling the common herring, that the best mode of distinguishing the one from the other appears to be by the situation of the dorsal fin. If the pilchard be held by this fin, the head will dip downward; the herring held in similar manner continues in equilibrio._

_The length of the pilchard is from eight to about ten inches._

_These fish annually appear in vast shoals off the coast of Cornwall, and some other south-western parts of England. Their utmost range seems to be the Isle of Wight in the British, and Ilfracomb in the Bristol channel._

To the inhabitants of Devonshire and Cornwall the pilchard fishery is of as much importance as that of herrings is to the people on the eastern and northern coasts of Britain. Many hundred families are almost wholly supported by it. The first appearance of the fish is generally about the middle of July, and they usually continue until the latter end of October.

As soon as the pilchards are caught they are conveyed to a warehouse, where they are covered with bay-salt, and suffered to lie for three weeks or a month. After this they are washed in sea-water and dried. As soon as they are dry the fish are closely pressed into barrels to extract the oily particles from them, which drain through holes that are made in the bottom. Thus prepared they become fit for use, and, when properly dressed, they are considered preferable to herrings.

Pilchards are generally caught in nets. These are sometimes 200 fathoms in length, and about eighteen fathoms deep. The approach of the shoals is known by great numbers of sea-birds which accompany and prey upon them; and the progress of the shoals is marked by persons who are stationed on the cliffs to point them out to the fishermen, and who are called _huers_, from their setting up a hue for this purpose.

The principal towns in the neighbourhood of which pilchards are caught are Fowey, Falmouth, Penzance, and St. Ives; and the average annual quantity that is sent to market is about 30,000 hogsheads.

243. _The SHAD_ (Clupæa alosa) _is a species of herring known by the belly being strongly serrated and covered with large transverse scales, the sides being marked with round black spots placed longitudinally, and the under jaw sloping upward._

_These fish weigh from half a pound to four or five pounds and upwards._

_They are found on the shores of all the temperate and warm countries of Europe, and, at certain seasons of the year, they ascend the rivers, to considerable distances, in order to deposit their spawn._

In the Thames and Severn these fish are generally found in the months of April, May, and June. Those that are caught in the Thames are coarse and insipid; whilst such as are caught in the Severn, especially that part of it which flows by Gloucester, are generally sold at a higher price than salmon. Shad that are taken in the sea are thin and of bad flavour, and the longer they continue in the rivers the fatter and more eatable they become. They are generally caught in nets, but sometimes with lines having an earth-worm for a bait. The London fishmongers are frequently supplied with shads from the Severn. These are distinguished by the name of _allis_, or _alose_, the French name for shad.

244. _The SPRAT_ (Clupæa sprattus) _is a very small fish of the herring tribe, distinguished by its belly being strongly serrated, the dorsal fin having seventeen rays, the anal fin nineteen, and the ventral fins each six._

_It seldom exceeds the length of about five inches, and is generally much smaller._

_These fish are caught on most of the British shores, and they ascend the river Thames nearly as high as London Bridge, in the beginning of November, and leave it in the month of March._

To the lower classes of inhabitants in London, during the winter, sprat a afford a cheap and very acceptable supply of food. They are caught in nets, and, in some instances, as many have been taken at a single haul as would have filled thirty barrels. Sprats are generally eaten fresh, though, both at Gravesend and Yarmouth, they are cured in the manner of red herrings. In some countries they are pickled, and, in this state, they are little inferior to anchovies, though the bones will not dissolve like those of anchovies.

Immense numbers of sprats, larger in size than ours, are every year caught on the coast of Sardinia. These are salted, packed in barrels, and exported to various parts of the world under the name of _Sardines_.

245. _The ANCHOVY_ (Clupæa encrasicolus) _is a small fish of the herring tribe, known from all the others by its upper jaw being considerably longer than the under jaw._

_These fish seldom exceed the length of four or five inches._

_They are chiefly caught in the Mediterranean, and the principal fishery for them is on the shores of Gorgona, a small island west of Leghorn. They are also caught off the coast if France, and occasionally off our own shores._

There are few persons fond of good eating to whom the anchovy, either in the form of sauce or as an article of food, is unknown. With us, however, it is seldom eaten in a recent state, the greater proportion of the anchovies consumed in this country being brought in pickle from the Mediterranean.

They are generally caught in nets during the night, being attracted together by fires lighted on the shore, or by torches fixed to the boats which are engaged in the fishery. As soon as they are caught the heads are cut off and the entrails taken out; after this they are salted, or pickled, and packed in barrels or earthen vessels for exportation.

In the choice of anchovies such should be selected as are small, round-backed, fresh pickled, whitish on the outside and red within. The most effectual method of concentrating the excellences of these fish is to reduce the fleshy part to a soft pulp, and to boil this gently, for a few minutes, with a certain proportion of water and spices. The substance thus prepared is denominated _essence of anchovies_.

246. _The CARP_ (Cyprinus carpio, Fig. 70) _is a fresh-water fish known by having one dorsal fin, three bony rays to the gill membrane, the mouth with four fleshy beards, the second ray of the dorsal fin serrated behind, and the body covered with large scales._

_These fish sometimes grow to a very large size._

_They inhabit slow and stagnated waters in various parts of Europe and Persia, and were first introduced into England about the year 1514._

Carp are a useful species of fish for the stocking of ponds, and for the supply of the table. In Polish Prussia they are an important article of commerce; being sent alive in well-boats to Sweden, Russia, and other parts. They are bred by the principal landholders of the country, to whom, in many instances, they yield a very important revenue. If the rearing of carp were better understood and practised in the marshy parts of England than it now is, they would amply repay every expence and trouble that might be bestowed upon them. The increase of these fish is very great: we are informed by Bloch that four male and three female carp, put into a large pond, produced in one year an offspring of no fewer than 110,000 fish. They are also extremely long lived, instances having occurred of carp living to the age of considerably more than 100 years. To fatten carp and increase their size, the growth of vegetation in the ponds where they are kept should be particularly attended to, as, during the summer-time, they principally feed upon this. In winter, when the ponds are frozen over, care must be taken to break the ice, that they may have access to the atmospheric air, without which, if they are in great numbers, they will die.

Carp are much esteemed as food, but a principal part of their excellence depends on the mode in which they are cooked. They are best in season during the autumnal and winter months. The usual mode of catching them is with nets, and the most proper time at daybreak. These fish, if kept in a cellar, in wet hay or moss, and fed with bread and milk, will live many days out of the water, and will even become fat.

With the roes of carp, in the eastern parts of Europe, a kind of _caviar_ is made, which is sold in considerable quantity to the Jews, who hold that of the sturgeon in abhorrence. The _sounds_, or air-bladders, of carp are converted into a species of isinglass, and their _gall_ is in much repute, with the Turks, for staining paper and for making a green paint.

247. _The TENCH_ (Cyprinus tinca, Fig. 63) _is a fish of the carp tribe, distinguished by its mouth having only two beards, the scales being small, the fins thick, and the whole body covered with a slimy matter._

_The weight of these fish seldom exceeds four or five pounds, but instances have occurred of their weighing more than eleven pounds._

_They are found in stagnant waters in nearly all the temperate parts of the globe._

There are not many fresh-water fish that are more excellent for the table than these; yet the ancient Romans so much despised them, that they were eaten by none but the lowest classes of the people. In the kingdom of Congo, on the contrary, they were formerly so much esteemed that they were allowed only to be eaten at court, and any person was liable to the punishment of death who caught a tench and did not carry it to the royal cook. Such tench as are caught in clear waters are much superior to those which have inhabited muddy places. They thrive best in still waters, where there are weeds at the bottom; and they are in season from the beginning of October until the end of May.

248. _The GUDGEON_ (Cyprinus gobio) _is a small fish of the carp tribe, with a thick and round body, two fleshy beards near the mouth, and the dorsal and caudal fins spotted with black._

_Its length is usually about six inches, and its weight seldom more than three or four ounces._

_This fish is an inhabitant of gentle streams, with gravelly or sandy bottom, in most of the northern parts of Europe._

The flesh of gudgeons is white, firm, and of excellent flavour; but the smallness of their size prevents these fish from being much in demand. They are found in small shoals near the bottom of the water; and are caught both with nets and lines. The bait that is used is generally a small earth-worm, which they seize with great eagerness. The season when they are in greatest perfection is from September till the end of the year.

Gudgeons are found to thrive well in ponds, if these be fed by brooks running through them. Under favourable circumstances they have sometimes attained an unusually large size. They feed on aquatic plants, worms, water-insects, and the spawn of fish.

249. _The BLEAK_ (Cyprinus alburnus) _is a small fish of the carp tribe, with somewhat pointed muzzle, and no beards; and the scales thin, shining and slightly attached._

_It seldom exceeds the length of five or six inches._

_These fish inhabit fresh-water rivers, in nearly all the temperate parts of Europe, and are extremely common in many if those of our own country._

There is, in Paris, a great consumption of bleaks on account of their _scales_, which are used in the manufacture of _artificial pearls_. The scales are scraped off into clear water, and beaten to an extremely fine pulp. After this the water is several times changed until they are entirely free from colour. The silvery matter that is left precipitates to the bottom; and the water is carefully poured off from it, by inclining the vessel. This substance, mixed with a little size, is introduced, in small quantity, into thin glass bubbles, by a slender pipe, and moved about until their whole interior surface is covered. The remaining part of the bubble is then generally filled with wax. The inventor of this art was a Frenchman of the name of Jannin, a bead merchant in Paris.

In some countries bleaks are pickled in the manner of anchovies. When of large size they are well flavoured, but they are too bony to be in much request as food, even by the poor. They are considered in greatest perfection in the autumn.

ORDER VI.--CHONDROPTERIGIOUS FISH.

250. _The COMMON STURGEON_ (Acipenser sturio, Fig. 71), _is a large kind of sea-fish with five rows of bony tubercles along the body; the mouth beneath the head, and four fleshy beards betwixt the mouth and the extremity of the muzzle._

_This fish sometimes growes to the length of sixteen feet and upwards._

_It inhabits the European and American seas, and annually ascends the rivers in the early part of the year._

It is to this and to a still larger species of sturgeon called the BELUGA (_Acipenser huso_), which is found in the river Wolga, that we are indebted for much of the well-known substance called _isinglass_. The mode of making isinglass was long kept a secret by the Russians, and has only of late years been made public. This article consists of certain membranous parts of fishes deprived of their viscous quality and properly dried. The sounds, or air bladders, are those of which it is chiefly made. They are taken out, while sweet and fresh, slit open, washed from their slime, divested of a very thin membrane which envelopes them, and then left to stiffen in the air. After this they are formed into rolls, each about the thickness of the finger, and put into the shape in which we see them, by small wooden pegs, and left to dry. The kind called _cake isinglass_ is formed of bits and fragments put into a flat metal pan with very little water, heated just enough to make the parts adhere, and subsequently dried in the air.

Although by far the greatest quantity of isinglass is obtained from the beluga, as being the largest and most abundant fish in the rivers of Muscovy, yet it has been ascertained that this substance may be made from the air-bladders of every species of fresh water fish. The principal consumption of isinglass is by brewers and others, for the fining of fermented liquors: this it appears to do merely by the mechanical effect of its organization, which forms a kind of strainer, or fine net-work, and carries the gross impurities before it, as it subsides. It is sometimes employed in medicine; and also in cookery, for making jellies, and other purposes.

_Caviar_ is a kind of food made generally from the roes of the sturgeon. For this purpose they are washed, when fresh, by rubbing them, with the hands, in a sieve, to free them from the fibres by which the several eggs are connected together. They are then washed in white wine or vinegar, and spread out to dry. After some further processes, they are either formed into cakes, each about an inch in thickness and three or four inches in diameter, or they are packed in small kegs for use.

The _flesh_ of the sturgeon is firm, white, and of excellent flavour; and, by some persons, has been compared to veal. It is considered best when roasted; though it is commonly sold in a pickled state, and, in this state, is chiefly imported from the rivers of the Baltic and North America. All sturgeons that are caught near London are taken to the Lord Mayor, and are by him presented to the King. In Italy the _back bones_ of these fish are cut into pieces, salted and smoked for food. The Russians frequently convert the _skins_ of sturgeons into a kind of leather, which they use for the covering of carriages.

251. _The SHARKS and DOG-FISH_ (Squalus, Fig. 64) _constitute a tribe of sea-fish noted for their voracity, and peculiarly characterized by having, instead of gills, from four to seven breathing apertures, of curved form, on each side of the neck._

_They are found in all seas, and some of them are of enormous magnitude, measuring from twenty to thirty feet and upwards in length._

The _skins_ of nearly all these animals, which are rough, with hard and minute prickles, are in frequent use for polishing wood, ivory, and even iron. Those of the larger species are cut into thongs and traces for carriages; and, in Norway, a sort of leather is prepared from them, which is employed for shoes and many other purposes. The skin of the SPOTTED DOG-FISH (_Squalus canicula_) is converted into the well-known substance called _shagreen_, or _chagreen_. For this purpose it is extended on a board and covered with mustard seed; and, after having been exposed for several days to the effects of the weather, it is tanned. The best shagreen is imported from Constantinople. This is of brownish colour, and very hard; but when immersed in water, it becomes soft and pliable, and may be dyed of any colour. Shagreen is often counterfeited by preparing morocco leather in the same manner as the skins of the dog-fish. Such fraud may, however, easily be detected by the surface of the spurious manufacture peeling or scaling off, whilst that of the genuine article remains perfectly sound. Shagreen is employed principally to cover cases for mathematical instruments, and was formerly used for watch-cases and the covers of books. _Sharks' fins_ are an article of trade from the Arabian and Persian gulfs to India, and thence to China: they are generally packed in bales weighing each about 700 pounds.

The _flesh_ of all the species of sharks is hard, and in general unpleasant both to the smell and the taste; yet it is sometimes eaten by seamen, after having been macerated for a while in water to soften it. The _eggs_ of sharks are also eaten. The _livers_ of all the species yield a considerable quantity of oil, which is useful for burning and for other purposes. From the livers of some of the larger kinds as much as seven or eight butts of oil have been obtained, worth twenty or thirty pounds and upwards.

252. _The SKATE_ (Raia batis, Fig. 72) _is a species of ray of large size, with flat and somewhat diamond-shaped body, and the mouth on the under side: the teeth sharp, and a single row of spines in the tail._

_It is found in almost every part of the European ocean._

No fish of its tribe is so excellent for the table as the skate, particularly when it is young and has not fed in a muddy part of the sea. The flesh is white and of good flavour, but is usually crimped before it is cooked. The best season for skate is from January to March; and from July to September. So great is the size which these fish sometimes attain, that Willoughby mentions one that would have served 120 men for dinner. In several parts of the Continent skate are salted and dried for sale. The fishermen also sometimes dry the _stomach_ as an article of food; and extract from the _liver_ a white and valuable kind of oil.

253. _The THORNBACK_ (Raia clavata) _is a species of ray, which differs from the skate chiefly in having blunt teeth, and a row of curved spines along the middle of the body and on the tail._

_This is a very common fish near all the coasts of Britain._

The flesh of thornback is much inferior to that of the skate, yet it is sometimes eaten. That of the young ones, which have the denomination of _maids_, is however peculiarly excellent. The Norwegian fishermen catch thornbacks chiefly on account of their _livers_; from these they extract a considerable quantity of oil, which they sell with great advantage to strangers who frequent their harbours.

254. _The TRUE LAMPREY_ (Petromyzon marinus, Fig. 73) _is an eel-shaped fish having seven breathing-holes on each side of the neck, and somewhat oblong mouth with many rows of yellowish pointed teeth disposed in a circular form._

_These fish are of dusky colour, irregularly marked with dirty yellow; and they sometimes weigh four or five pounds each._

_They are sea-fish, but, at certain seasons, they ascend the rivers to deposit their eggs._

Lampreys are celebrated as forming an excellent dish for the table; and they have, at all times, been held in great esteem by epicures, particularly when potted or stewed. The death of one of our monarchs, Henry the First, has been attributed to a too plentiful repast which he made of these fish. Lampreys are in best season during the month of March, April, and May; at which time they are caught in the rivers. The Severn is peculiarly celebrated for them; and the city of Gloucester, which is situated on that river, is required, by ancient custom, to present annually to the King, at Christmas, a lamprey pie with raised crust. And as, at that early season, lampreys are very scarce, it is not without difficulty that the corporation is able to supply the proper quantity.

These fish are caught in various ways, but particularly in osier pots or baskets formed to entrap them, and also in nets. In some parts of the country they are boiled, and afterwards packed into barrels with vinegar and spices.

255. _The LESSER LAMPREY_ (Petromyzon fluviatilis) _is a fresh-water fish, distinguishable from the true lamprey by its much smaller size, the second dorsal fin being angular and connected with the caudal fin, and having a single row of teeth placed circularly in the mouth._

_This fish seldom exceeds the length of eight or ten inches._

_It is found in the rivers of most parts of Europe, America, and Asia; and particularly in those of Brandenburgh, Pomerania, Silesia, and Prussia._

In the spring of the year these fish are frequently seen sticking, by their mouth, to stones in shallow water, from which they may easily be taken with the hand. They are considered a very delicious fish for the table, in whatever way they are cooked. The best season for them is betwixt the months of December and April.

Great numbers of Lesser Lampreys are caught in the Severn, the Dee, and the Thames; but particularly in the latter, near Mortlake in Surrey. Anterior to the late war more than 400,000 of them were annually sold to the Dutch as bait for cod, turbot, and other large fish.

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CLASS V.--INSECTS.

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256. _The SPANISH FLY, or BLISTERING LYTTA_ (Lytta vesicatoria), _is a coleopterous insect (12), about an inch in length, of shining blue-green colour with black antennæ._

_It is found in most parts of Europe, and feeds on the leaves of the ash, poplar, elder, lilac, and other trees._

These insects, which are known in medicine by the name of _cantharides_, are of incalculable importance to mankind, as the basis of blistering plasters, and also as an internal remedy against many diseases. We import them in a dried state, from Spain, Italy, and the South of France; in many parts of which countries, about the middle of summer, they are found in vast abundance. As they are generally in a torpid state during the day, they are easily collected, by shaking them from the trees upon a cloth spread on the ground to receive them. When a sufficient number has been collected they are tied in bags, and killed by being held over the fumes of hot vinegar. After this they are dried in the sun, and packed in boxes for sale. The odour which is emitted by these insects is peculiarly nauseous, and so powerful, that great injury has sometimes been experienced by persons employed in picking them, and by those who have even fallen asleep under the trees where they abound.

Previously to being used they are pounded; and if, in this state, they be applied to the skin, they first cause inflammation, and afterwards raise a blister. The usual blistering plaster is formed with Venice turpentine, yellow wax, Spanish flies, and powdered mustard.

257. _The PALM-TREE GRUB, or GRUGRU, is the larva or caterpillar of a coleopterous insect (12), the palm-tree weevil_ (Curculio palmarum), _which is about two inches in length, of black colour, and has the elytra or wing cases shorter than the body, and streaked or marked with several longitudinal lines._

_This insect is found in Cayenne, Surinam, and other parts of South America._